Update: I switched to IDE and after sorting out a few issues it seems to be working.
Is there any big reason to use AHCI over IDE?
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Is there any big reason to use AHCI over IDE?
n64coder
Member
I recently did a fresh install of xp, unfortunately I did not back up my drivers and now have to hunt them down..
Can anyone tell me what's my ethernet controller or how to find it, and how to get the driver for it?
I used aida64 to get this info:
You have an Intel board so you want to go to Intel's website and download the drivers for the Guardfish.
Basically, I go to http://www.intel.com, click on support, then drivers. Look for discontinued boards. THen select desktop boards, 965 series,and then your specific board number which DQ965GF
Here's the link
Just a quick question, not the end of the world.
Got my main Windows 8 installation on a small SSD, with all my other files on a second 1TB HDD.
At the start of the week, my 60GB SSD had approx 19GB spare. As of right now, its just under 16GB. Aside from downloading Malwarebytes, i have not put anything on the SSD this week. Any idea why its suddenly got an additional 3GB of files on it? I have no idea what it could be.
Got my main Windows 8 installation on a small SSD, with all my other files on a second 1TB HDD.
At the start of the week, my 60GB SSD had approx 19GB spare. As of right now, its just under 16GB. Aside from downloading Malwarebytes, i have not put anything on the SSD this week. Any idea why its suddenly got an additional 3GB of files on it? I have no idea what it could be.
n64coder
Member
Could be anything. I would suggest using a program like Tree Size Professional to inventory your hard disk. It'll show how much space is being used and in which directories. They have a trial version so you could try to use it see where the space might be going. Another thing you can do is save the report and see if it increases again in a week. Then compare the new report with the old report to see which directory is much bigger.
capitalCORN
Member
Greetings all. I was wondering,
I have 8GB of system RAM on my W7 computer, is there a need to maintain a swap file still?
I have 8GB of system RAM on my W7 computer, is there a need to maintain a swap file still?
There's a lot of controversy regarding this. Basically, if you remove your swap file, some programs may run out of RAM which would cause your system to crash.
Some say removing the swap file increases performance, but i believe most say it's negligible.
If you do not specifically need the extra hdd space i would just let it be set to auto.
If you have more than one drive available you could use that drive instead for the location of the swap file. I believe it's recommended since it would take some load of the system drive which you'd want only to be accessed by the program or game you're running.
I think once you hit 16gb and over in RAM there's little use to keep the swap file though.
There's amazing amount of information and clarification on the web via a quick google search.
Not really. You miss out on some key features like hot swapping and such. Performance should be the same though.
Could be anything as been said. Using something like windirstat will give you a clear indication on what's taking up that extra space. It could just be temporary windows update files for example.
NoRéN;45464835 said:
The Hyper 212+ is a fantastic heatsink for its price. Having built a couple of computers with it though, the quality seem to be hit or miss. Remove the heatsink, remove and re-apply paste and re-seat it.
It's clear that it's not making perfect contact since the temp is way too high.
Use something like hwmonitor instead for monitoring temperatures since i believe speedfan can sometimes give false readings.
Quick question, would I be able to upgrade to W7 from my current computer with the current stock graphics card? It has Directx 9, but I'm unsure of the Windows Display Driver Model.
If not, any idea which card I should buy(for above Intel Guardfish)? Don't need anything earth shattering, just a basic card that will allow me to upgrade to W7.
If not, any idea which card I should buy(for above Intel Guardfish)? Don't need anything earth shattering, just a basic card that will allow me to upgrade to W7.
n64coder
Member
What is the graphics card you're using? Yes, you should be able to upgrade to Windows 7. It might use generic Windows 7 driver. Then you'll have to reinstall the driver. Even if a Windows 7 driver does not exist, you can still use a Vista driver. It's possible that even an XP driver will still work.
I have installed Windows 7 on older computers a number of times but don't quite remember all the details.
As for a graphics card recommendation, just get a cheap Nvidia or AMD based card. Here's a card that I got a few months ago for $30. link
Sub_Level
wants to fuck an Asian grill.
Helped a friend today.
Situation:
- He has a mac. OSX 10.6.something
- His Netgear router was showing an amber light where the internet cable connects
- We verified loopback ping so his network adapter was working properly
- His wifi switch was turned on
- It would show "Airport: Connected"
- Google Chrome would still show Unable to Connect or something along those lines
We tried:
- Renewing the IP configuration (release and renew DHCP lease)
- Setting Google Chrome to automatically acquire proxy settings
- Power cycling the modem and router
- Removing the wifi connection and adding it again
What worked:
- Going into his router wizard and setting the router to use his computer's MAC address
My question is why did that work? I got it off some random forum. Will it prevent his family's other computers from getting connectivity? (I had to help him through phone, my OS doesn't support Remote Desktop and it's Windows anyways)
Situation:
- He has a mac. OSX 10.6.something
- His Netgear router was showing an amber light where the internet cable connects
- We verified loopback ping so his network adapter was working properly
- His wifi switch was turned on
- It would show "Airport: Connected"
- Google Chrome would still show Unable to Connect or something along those lines
We tried:
- Renewing the IP configuration (release and renew DHCP lease)
- Setting Google Chrome to automatically acquire proxy settings
- Power cycling the modem and router
- Removing the wifi connection and adding it again
What worked:
- Going into his router wizard and setting the router to use his computer's MAC address
My question is why did that work? I got it off some random forum. Will it prevent his family's other computers from getting connectivity? (I had to help him through phone, my OS doesn't support Remote Desktop and it's Windows anyways)
atomic moth
Member
Can anyone direct me towards somewhere that would help me use x360ce for a generic controller with Batman AC?
The controller shows as working until I boot up the game, then it won't work. All the .dlls are in the same file as the game. I've tried renaming the xinput to the suggested names, as well.
I'm looking forward to playing Dark Souls eventually, so hopefully someone can help me.
The controller shows as working until I boot up the game, then it won't work. All the .dlls are in the same file as the game. I've tried renaming the xinput to the suggested names, as well.
I'm looking forward to playing Dark Souls eventually, so hopefully someone can help me.
n64coder
Member
I would like to know when was his configuration working and what did he do to make it stop working? Did he not have a router and the internet was directly plugged into his computer?
Stronghammer22
Member
So...
I've since updated my drivers. Anyway, I have noticed of late that my GPU is getting to some extreme temperatures. The days have been quite hot here, but still, it seems a little ridiculous to hit 98 Celsius. I have a full tower, several 120mm fans and the cords are nicely tied. Airflow is good.
I guess the possibilities are either dust in the heatsink fins or the thermal paste on the heatsink is screwed? I don't know. Any advice?
I've since updated my drivers. Anyway, I have noticed of late that my GPU is getting to some extreme temperatures. The days have been quite hot here, but still, it seems a little ridiculous to hit 98 Celsius. I have a full tower, several 120mm fans and the cords are nicely tied. Airflow is good.
I guess the possibilities are either dust in the heatsink fins or the thermal paste on the heatsink is screwed? I don't know. Any advice?
n64coder
Member
I would recommend that you do so but you don't need to get a fancy one.
What's your temp during idle (use hwmonitor) and temp during load (stress test with prime95)?
If you run a long enough stress test (say, 30 minutes?) and cpu temperatures doesn't move past 70C, then you might be able to run the system fanless.
Replacing it would be safest though. I assume your computer have been running fine even though the fan broke? If that's the case, consider buying a low rpm fan. This would decrease noise.
From my experience any fan above 700-900 rpm adds considerable noise. YMMV.
So...
I've since updated my drivers. Anyway, I have noticed of late that my GPU is getting to some extreme temperatures. The days have been quite hot here, but still, it seems a little ridiculous to hit 98 Celsius. I have a full tower, several 120mm fans and the cords are nicely tied. Airflow is good.
I guess the possibilities are either dust in the heatsink fins or the thermal paste on the heatsink is screwed? I don't know. Any advice?
What's your ambient (room) temperature?
Clean the outtakes and gpu fan first. Google and check what other users with the same gpu as you have in idle temp. If yours is extremely higher after cleaning it out, you might need to re-apply thermal paste.
Oh and btw, hitting 98C during load is a lot and kind of in the threshold of damaging the card (iirc anything near or above 100C will permanently damage current hardware). I'd suggest google for the max temp your card can handle before it fails. My guess is prolly around 100C-110C. You should never reach these temps unless you're running some extreme stress test like furmark. Games will never take your card to this temperature.
EDIT:
Did some light searching regarding the GTX 570. Other users seem to report somewhere between 45-60C idle temp, and 75-90C load temp.
The card is rated to handle temperatures up to 105C.
I would seriously consider cleaning out the gpu fan and re-apply thermal paste.
Stronghammer22
Member
It's hard to say exactly, as I don't have anything to measure the temperature. However, it's summer here in Australia and the days on average are around 35c. I have a fan on in my room, but I doubt it would bring it down much beyond that.
Yes, I realised that, which is why I killed the game as soon as I noticed. It's kind of scary, that it's reaching those temps. When I originally bought it (I think March or April) on load it was 75c ish, so something has definitely gone wrong. I will take it out and clean it as you suggest and re-apply the thermal paste. I will report back with the results.
Thanks for looking into it and for the advice.
Even at that ambient temperature (say ~28-30C indoors going by the temperature outdoors)
It still is a tad hot.
I don't think you'll need to re-apply thermal paste if you think it's too much of a hassle. Cleaning out all the dust inside (cpu fan, gpu fan, chassi fans) will give you better temperatures, more so than re-appling paste.
If you somewhat hit -5c/+5c idle and load when comparing to other users you'll be fine.
But if you notice artefacts and crashing while/when gaming it's best if you just turn the comp off and let it cool down.
What chassi do you have? IIRC, best way to optimize air flow would be:
Front fan(s) as intake.
Top fan (if available) outtake.
Rear fan(s) outtake.
Chassi side plate fan, intake.
a simple push-pull config basically,
When did you notice the increase in temperature? Was it because of the change in ambient temp, or did you just notice it?
Do you remember the temperature during idle/load before?7
EDIT:
If you think software could be the culprit (drivers and such), remove and uninstall all gpu drivers. run driver sweeper in safe mode, and reinstall latest drivers.
I doubt this would make any difference but i might as well mention it.
Cleaning the whole computer out (removing dusts and such) should be the first thing to do.
Stronghammer22
Member
I have a Thermaltake Chaser MK-1. I've opened it up and I can see a bit of a dust on the fans. I'm going to grab some compressed air; I assume that is the best way to clean out the case? Yeah, I had a look at the process to apply the thermal paste to the GPU and it looks like a pain in the arse. If removing the dust does the job, I definitely won't worry about it.
The funny thing is, the games have been running perfectly fine. It appears the graphics card isn't damaged in any way, but it's obviously not a good thing to have it running so hot. I've been in the process of moving house, thus I haven't really been playing much. I know the temps have been higher the last couple of months, I couldn't pinpoint an exact date/time that it started nor attribute it to a change in weather. We get a lot of hot days here, even during winter etc.
My airflow is as you pointed out, minus the side fan -- I don't have one. The idle temps were lower than what they are now, I know that much. I can't remember the number though. On load, it was around 75-80c. I remember this because I was testing out Battlefield 3 on Ultra and wanted to see how hard it was pushing my GPU.
I did remove the drivers and install the newest ones when I noticed that they were outdated. It didn't make any difference. I'd say it's most likely the dust. Hopefully after I clean it out the temperature comes down to an acceptable range.
Thanks again.
*Edit - Hmm, cleaned the fans with a cloth + compressed air and the rest of the case with compressed air. The temps have come down a little but still too high imo. Arkham city hovers at 89-90c. The Witcher 2 and Hard Reset both lie in the low 90's. Highest was 95.
Idle is early 40's.
n64coder
Member
How old is the graphics card? I also use a vacuum to clean out the dust. Combo of compressed air and vacuuming.
If the thermal paste is dried up, it's likely not going to transfer the heat from the chip to the cooler that well.
Stronghammer22
Member
It's 9 months old. I contacted Zotac, here is the exchange:
me said:
I thought I was contacting the Australian support, oops. I've never RMA'd anything, what's the process and should I pursue it?Zotac said:
Good Evening,
I got a couple of questions if you guys don't mind helping me with. On black friday, I purchase three laptops from Walmart; Compaq Presario CQ58 for my children. I want to prepare them before I let them go at it. Just a couple of questions.
1. What is an easier way to remove bloatware.
2. I'm putting MS Live Parent Controls on it. Which should stop them from downloading god knows what. But is there a better program to prevent them from ruining the OS. I'm putting the normal MSE on it as well and making sure they are on a guest wifi.
3. If they get past number two and I need to reload the OS, is there a program I should use? I remember a thread awhile back that you can download a legal copy of Win 7 as long as you have the serial. Is there one for Win 8? I thought about just setting up one computer and Ghosting it to the others and just saving the image on a USB stick.
These are my only concerns, any advice would be good.
Thanks.
I got a couple of questions if you guys don't mind helping me with. On black friday, I purchase three laptops from Walmart; Compaq Presario CQ58 for my children. I want to prepare them before I let them go at it. Just a couple of questions.
1. What is an easier way to remove bloatware.
2. I'm putting MS Live Parent Controls on it. Which should stop them from downloading god knows what. But is there a better program to prevent them from ruining the OS. I'm putting the normal MSE on it as well and making sure they are on a guest wifi.
3. If they get past number two and I need to reload the OS, is there a program I should use? I remember a thread awhile back that you can download a legal copy of Win 7 as long as you have the serial. Is there one for Win 8? I thought about just setting up one computer and Ghosting it to the others and just saving the image on a USB stick.
These are my only concerns, any advice would be good.
Thanks.
n64coder
Member
So the card is not that old. Bummer. RMA means that you get authorization to send the card back and then they'll send you a new one.
You could ask them if they would be willing to send you the new card first using your credit card as a guarantee and then you send the old one back.
n64coder
Member
1. Good question. I just go to add/remove programs to remove the bloatware. Otherwise, I think you have to reinstall Windows using Microsoft's image, not the image on your laptop which is polluted.
2. I don't know of any. I just educate my kids to not do that. Also make sure they don't have admin privs on the computer.
3. Just get an official image from Microsoft and prepare a boot stick with it. Verify that your key works with it (it should). Windows 8 is a similar process.
I reinstalled windows after getting a virus. Fresh install and everything. However, now I've noticed some youtube videos have bad audio flickering. Some are perfectly fine or just have a little but some are completely ruined as well. What could be causing that? Would it be a codec issue, audio drivers, flash, ect?
Hi nerdgaf
So I bought one of the Lenovo Y-580 that laptop-gaf is so fond of.
I got the model with a 16GB SSD that is configured in some sort of space age RAID setup (Intel Rapid Storage).
I want to upgrade the SSD to a larger capacity and I have a couple questions.
1. How the hell do I do this? I've googled a ton and can't find anything plain enough to understand on how to do this.
2. Would it be better once upgraded to format the drives this way again, or just put windows + essentials on the SSD and use the standard HDD for storage?
So I bought one of the Lenovo Y-580 that laptop-gaf is so fond of.
I got the model with a 16GB SSD that is configured in some sort of space age RAID setup (Intel Rapid Storage).
I want to upgrade the SSD to a larger capacity and I have a couple questions.
1. How the hell do I do this? I've googled a ton and can't find anything plain enough to understand on how to do this.
2. Would it be better once upgraded to format the drives this way again, or just put windows + essentials on the SSD and use the standard HDD for storage?
Jzero
Member
It's better to stick with the same brand and speed but you should still be able to mix them up.
Ah, will do then. Thank you.
n64coder
Member
I would think that you would need to clone the drive to be able to swap it out but I don't know how that would work with Intel RST environment.
Personally, I would lean towards saving your data to another disk and then reinstalling windows with RST disabled.
anotherVegan
Member
My wife has two computers. A macbook whose screen does not light up (it otherwise works), and an HP laptop whose fan sounds like a lawn mower when it is on. Any suggestions on how to fix these?
Ok here's my situation. I've had it for nearly 5 years now and just go used to it. Basically, long story short, my PC reboots instead of shutting down!
Hardware: ASUS P5Q motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @2.40 Ghz
4GB OCZ DDR2 SDRAM
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX
CoolerMaster PSU
Antec case
Software: Windows 7 Ultimate, all latest updates including SP1
When I shut down, everything seems normal. Windows says it's shutting down, fans spin down, etc. But as soon as everything seems off, the PC just goes up and starts again! I've updated to the latest BIOS drivers, I've tried different video cards, different PSUs, fresh install of Windows, loading BIOS defaults - nothing changes it. Also in my BIOS settings, all the "wake from ___" options are disabled.
Help NeoGAF-kenobi, you're my only hope!
Hardware: ASUS P5Q motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @2.40 Ghz
4GB OCZ DDR2 SDRAM
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX
CoolerMaster PSU
Antec case
Software: Windows 7 Ultimate, all latest updates including SP1
When I shut down, everything seems normal. Windows says it's shutting down, fans spin down, etc. But as soon as everything seems off, the PC just goes up and starts again! I've updated to the latest BIOS drivers, I've tried different video cards, different PSUs, fresh install of Windows, loading BIOS defaults - nothing changes it. Also in my BIOS settings, all the "wake from ___" options are disabled.
Help NeoGAF-kenobi, you're my only hope!
n64coder
Member
Try disconnecting the power/reset switch from the board and see if that fixes the problem.
Are you shutting down the computer or are you putting it to sleep? If the latter, see if something is causing it to wake up like the mouse/keyboard. You can run powercfg /lastwake to see which device is doing this.
On the HP laptop issue, you probably need to take it apart to check out the fan. Perhaps giving it a good cleaning will help? Or you need to replace the fan. When you take it apart, I suggest taking pictures as you go so you remember how to put it back together.
Cosmic Bus
pristine morning snow
My laptop (Windows 7) froze last night and then blue screened, both for the first time in the three years I've owned it. Now it hangs andor blue screens at the Windows startup and safe mode doesn't work either. What am I supposed to do now?
Hung Wei Lo
Member
I'm trying to get the Rogers One Number service set up, which is essentially VOIP service that allows you to take/make calls from phone or laptop or tablet. It looks like there is an issue with the firewall, I'm guessing from the router. When I called support I was told the following ports would need to be opened:
SIP/TLS ports 5060/5061
Port 5061 will need to be open for TLS signaling
RTP Range 10000-30000 (access)
RTP Range 49152-65535 (client)
The RTP/RTCP ports are required for media (audio and video)
Port 554 & 8554, both TCP and UDP should be enabled for audio (these are standard RTSP ports)
Firstly, I'm not sure how safe this is, but in any event, I went to my router settings to try this and I only have the option under 'type' for UDP and TCP, so for the "port 5061 for TLS signaliing" and the "RTP range" I don't know which type to put it under, so I opened both :/
For the most part it's working, as my text messages and email are showing up and syncing, but the VOIP part isn't working consistently. Once I apply the router settings, I can make/take calls through my laptop or tablet, but after a few minutes, I'll lose the capabilities. I would need to reapply the settings on my router for it to work again. FYI - it's a Belkin Model: F5D8231-4 and now, it's not working on my tablet what so ever.
If I tether my laptop and/or tablet to my phone, it works without a hitch, which is why I figure it has to do with my router. Can someone help?
SIP/TLS ports 5060/5061
Port 5061 will need to be open for TLS signaling
RTP Range 10000-30000 (access)
RTP Range 49152-65535 (client)
The RTP/RTCP ports are required for media (audio and video)
Port 554 & 8554, both TCP and UDP should be enabled for audio (these are standard RTSP ports)
Firstly, I'm not sure how safe this is, but in any event, I went to my router settings to try this and I only have the option under 'type' for UDP and TCP, so for the "port 5061 for TLS signaliing" and the "RTP range" I don't know which type to put it under, so I opened both :/
For the most part it's working, as my text messages and email are showing up and syncing, but the VOIP part isn't working consistently. Once I apply the router settings, I can make/take calls through my laptop or tablet, but after a few minutes, I'll lose the capabilities. I would need to reapply the settings on my router for it to work again. FYI - it's a Belkin Model: F5D8231-4 and now, it's not working on my tablet what so ever.
If I tether my laptop and/or tablet to my phone, it works without a hitch, which is why I figure it has to do with my router. Can someone help?
Calibrated Chaos
Member
I can't change the volume on my iPod classic (80 gig). It's extremely loud. Volume limit isn't on. I did a full restore twice. Any tips?
n64coder
Member
My laptop (Windows 7) froze last night and then blue screened, both for the first time in the three years I've owned it. Now it hangs andor blue screens at the Windows startup and safe mode doesn't work either. What am I supposed to do now?
Uggh, I'm guessing that you might have a hardware issue or some sort of corruption. Can you try booting Windows/Linux off a USB stick to see if it still crashes? This could help you determine if it's a software or hardware issue.
When it blue screens, what was the message and module that it shows?
It seems like an awful lot of ports to open. I think it will mostly be asking for TCP ports except for the few cases where it also needs UDP.
Stronghammer22
Member
To follow up on this, my card hit 97 today playing Cargo Commander. Cargo Commander. I'm going to RMA the living hell out of it after Christmas.
DarkLegion
Member
Hey GAF, recently built a new computer a month ago and since then I've been getting a few system freezes, and now Im getting BSODs. At first I figured windows installed improperly (it was freezing very frequently). Naturally I reinstalled windows. The freezing stopped for a week or 2. Then, it occured while watching a video. Since then it's been happening something like once a day.
I did some research and read some things about how RAM voltage could play a factor in this, so I went into the BIOS and my 1.5V RAM stick was getting something like 1.585V. That's within limits, but I lowered it down to 1.5V. Since then, instead of freezes I'm getting a BSOD. The BSOD shows "Physical Memory Dump Failed with status 0xC000009C."
I've done check disk, Memtests, stress tests, video stress tests and checked the voltages going to the mobo via the BIOS and those turned up fine. Here are my specs,
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black
ASRock Z77 Extreme Pro 3 mobo
Windows 7 Home 32-bit
Antec VP-450 450W ATX 12V v2.3 Power Supply
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 SE
Western Digital WD Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200
and a SeaGate 120GB HDD from my old PC in slave.
Also, I don't know if this is related but today I find that the windows time goes out of sync constantly.
I did some research and read some things about how RAM voltage could play a factor in this, so I went into the BIOS and my 1.5V RAM stick was getting something like 1.585V. That's within limits, but I lowered it down to 1.5V. Since then, instead of freezes I'm getting a BSOD. The BSOD shows "Physical Memory Dump Failed with status 0xC000009C."
I've done check disk, Memtests, stress tests, video stress tests and checked the voltages going to the mobo via the BIOS and those turned up fine. Here are my specs,
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black
ASRock Z77 Extreme Pro 3 mobo
Windows 7 Home 32-bit
Antec VP-450 450W ATX 12V v2.3 Power Supply
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 SE
Western Digital WD Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200
and a SeaGate 120GB HDD from my old PC in slave.
Also, I don't know if this is related but today I find that the windows time goes out of sync constantly.
Hung Wei Lo
Member
I think so too, so I've opened the ones mentioned except for those big ranged ones. I'm still having the issue where after a few minutes I can't make or take calls from my laptop/tablet unless I reapply the settings - would setting up the router as an access point do anything?
ChoklitReign
Member
A few months ago my wired 360 controller (for PC games) broke - it fell off my PC and the weird metal thing that plugs into the USB adapter bent and cannot plug back in. I can't believe it could be bent because I couldn't move the damn metal with a screwdriver with all my might, and it broke just by falling on the floor...
I can't figure out the warranty situation for 360 controllers, so where do I send it? If I bought it in June and broke it around October/November am I fucked? It was bought from Amazon but they say they probably won't receive it.
I'm particularly hesitant to buy a new one because this is my THIRD controller that either broke or was lost/stolen. And this time it broke mostly out of my control. I can't just spend $100+ on controllers. If I must I am buying a third-party controller because their warranties will be much better. But can I send my controller to Microsoft to fix it?
I can't figure out the warranty situation for 360 controllers, so where do I send it? If I bought it in June and broke it around October/November am I fucked? It was bought from Amazon but they say they probably won't receive it.
I'm particularly hesitant to buy a new one because this is my THIRD controller that either broke or was lost/stolen. And this time it broke mostly out of my control. I can't just spend $100+ on controllers. If I must I am buying a third-party controller because their warranties will be much better. But can I send my controller to Microsoft to fix it?
Katana_Strikes
Member
Really need some help guys!
My laptop now just freezes everytime it loads up. The mouse cursor still moves but everything else in the background is just froze. It loads up fine in safe mode. It works again after I do a system restore, but the next time the computer is reset, I'm back to square one. I've virus/spyware checked it with various software and there's nothing to be found. I've done a chkdsk and it says it found and fixed things but nothing I've done has fixed it fully.
I'm on Vista btw. Don't know what else to do...
My laptop now just freezes everytime it loads up. The mouse cursor still moves but everything else in the background is just froze. It loads up fine in safe mode. It works again after I do a system restore, but the next time the computer is reset, I'm back to square one. I've virus/spyware checked it with various software and there's nothing to be found. I've done a chkdsk and it says it found and fixed things but nothing I've done has fixed it fully.
I'm on Vista btw. Don't know what else to do...
That was my conclusion. Disabling RST so I can clone the drives is proving to be the difficult part. I've found some semi-pertinent info through some google-fu but I can't find a "for dummies" guide. I tried once already and crashed the OS. Luckily Windows 8 seems to be pretty good at repairing itself automatically...
n64coder
Member
Setting your router as an access point means that it doesn't give out DHCP addresses and it's just an extension of the upstream router. In my house, I have a router in the basement. I have a wireless access point on the first floor that is hard-wired to the router. So when a laptop connects to the access point, it's like it's connecting directly to the router. All the WAP is doing is relaying packets back-and-forth.
So changing it to a WAP in your situation is not what I think you want to do. I would suggest calling Rogers on the phone and tell them that it's not working. Ask them for clarification on which ports need to be opened up.
Do they support certain routers? If so, what are their supported routers? Maybe it would be easier to get a router that is supported by them?
Sorry but I don't see how this should be a warranty repair. What exactly broke on the controller? Is it the USB connector end? It would help if you had a picture of it.
According to Microsoft, the warranty on the controller is 90 days.
I would think that disabling RST is done at the BIOS level. Have you checked the BIOS menu?
Are you saying that after you power off/on the computer or reboot it, the problem happens again? At this point, I would probably reinstall the OS. Even better, reinstall using Windows 7 or 8.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Pop quiz!
Can anyone think of a reason why a GPU would suddenly kick its fans up to 6000rpm (hair dryer volume levels) and park itself there permanently?
Short story: I have a AMD 6950 GPU that has behaved well for the last 10 months. It's seen very little use over the last 6 of those months, as I've been away from it most of the time. While web browsing last night, the fan started accelerating until it hit max speed and it stayed there. No changes to the GPU drivers or fan speeds were being made. Checking the temps in CCC, Afterburner, GPU-Z and HWMonitor all said the same thing: that the fans were at max speed, but the GPU temp was only in the 40C-50C range. AKA, no reason for the sudden increase in fan speed. To make matters worse, the fan speed refuses to be changed. I can set it manually to any fan speed I like, but it won't slow down. I can set it to auto and it will read something like 24%, but will still be working at 6000rpm.
I shut down the machine, rebooted and all of that over the course of the next couple of hours. I've left it off for several minutes with the PSU shut off. I flipped the built-in bios switch (AMD reference GPUs have dual bios, in case one becomes corrupted) but no difference. I removed the GPU, inspected it and took the compressed air can to it, reseated and booted. Same story. Sometimes it would start quiet and act normal for a few minutes, but eventually it would turn into a jet engine again.
I've started the RMA process, but if there's a fix I haven't figured out yet for something like this, I'm all ears. I can't think of anything that would cause this. The GPU is NOT overheating, but the fans are going to max. I have no idea what could cause a fan to go to max and be totally unresponsive to commands to slow down.
If anyone has an idea, it's welcome. I'd rather NOT be down on that computer for an extended period of time, and I'd rather not have to RMA something that's not broken.
Can anyone think of a reason why a GPU would suddenly kick its fans up to 6000rpm (hair dryer volume levels) and park itself there permanently?
Short story: I have a AMD 6950 GPU that has behaved well for the last 10 months. It's seen very little use over the last 6 of those months, as I've been away from it most of the time. While web browsing last night, the fan started accelerating until it hit max speed and it stayed there. No changes to the GPU drivers or fan speeds were being made. Checking the temps in CCC, Afterburner, GPU-Z and HWMonitor all said the same thing: that the fans were at max speed, but the GPU temp was only in the 40C-50C range. AKA, no reason for the sudden increase in fan speed. To make matters worse, the fan speed refuses to be changed. I can set it manually to any fan speed I like, but it won't slow down. I can set it to auto and it will read something like 24%, but will still be working at 6000rpm.
I shut down the machine, rebooted and all of that over the course of the next couple of hours. I've left it off for several minutes with the PSU shut off. I flipped the built-in bios switch (AMD reference GPUs have dual bios, in case one becomes corrupted) but no difference. I removed the GPU, inspected it and took the compressed air can to it, reseated and booted. Same story. Sometimes it would start quiet and act normal for a few minutes, but eventually it would turn into a jet engine again.
I've started the RMA process, but if there's a fix I haven't figured out yet for something like this, I'm all ears. I can't think of anything that would cause this. The GPU is NOT overheating, but the fans are going to max. I have no idea what could cause a fan to go to max and be totally unresponsive to commands to slow down.
If anyone has an idea, it's welcome. I'd rather NOT be down on that computer for an extended period of time, and I'd rather not have to RMA something that's not broken.
Oracle Dragon
Member
Hey guys, got a strange issue/question:
I bought some new PC gear this holiday including a new 3TB HD. I was going to use this as my primary drive on my new Z77 mobo. I set everything up with my Win7 disc and discovered that I only got 2.2TB of my HD. Read a bit and it turns out that MBR hard drives hae a 2.2TB maximum, and you need to run a utility like Seaate Disc Wizard to add the remained as a new "virtual drive". I ran the "3TB+ Unlocker" utility that came with the new motherboard (Gigabyte). It added a second MBR partition/drive which I could format and use. Okay, so far so good.
Now, I for some reason can't activae my Windows 7. Eventually I figure out it's because I hav Upgrade Win7 and I tried to do a fresh install with it, so my key is invalid. So I pop i my old Vista 64 disc, reboot, and get ready to install. During the vista installatios, I delete both my partitions... my 2.2TB win7 one and my 700-odd GB one made by the 3TB utlity (I figured better to re-run everything under my proper OS). Strangely they do not combine back into a single volume of "unpartitioned space" but still sow as two seperate "unpartitioned space" volumes. Okay, I figure just a side effect of what the 3TB unlocked did, I guess I will sill have C+D when Im finally done. So I install my Vista64.
Now Im in Vista64, and going to put in my Win7 upgrade disc. So I open "My Computer" and it says I have only a single "C" drive of 2.77 TB. This, I thought, was supposed to be impossible? So I double-check Disk Manager and sure enough, only one 2.77 TB partition. I go ahead and rn t Win7 upgrade, but at the end (everthing is working from the look of it) I still have a single 2.77 TB drive which from what I read shouldn't be able to exist as a boot drive unless I have UEFI mobo. As far as I know don't, I hae a Gigabyte Z77M-D3H-MVP wich is using an American Megatrends BIOS, not UEFI.
So uhh.... long story I know but have I done goofed GAF?
EDIT -- Hmm ok so maybe I have answered my own quesiton. If I dig through Gigabytes website, they say this mobo does have UEFI. This is a bit confusig because I had understood that "UEFI" replaces "BIOS" but through the printed guide Gigabyte repeatedly rerfers to it as a "BIOS". But, maybe re-installing made it a GPT partition which would allow it to be a single volume, and UEFI will boot from that. Coud be... don't really have any other explanaion right now I guess
I bought some new PC gear this holiday including a new 3TB HD. I was going to use this as my primary drive on my new Z77 mobo. I set everything up with my Win7 disc and discovered that I only got 2.2TB of my HD. Read a bit and it turns out that MBR hard drives hae a 2.2TB maximum, and you need to run a utility like Seaate Disc Wizard to add the remained as a new "virtual drive". I ran the "3TB+ Unlocker" utility that came with the new motherboard (Gigabyte). It added a second MBR partition/drive which I could format and use. Okay, so far so good.
Now, I for some reason can't activae my Windows 7. Eventually I figure out it's because I hav Upgrade Win7 and I tried to do a fresh install with it, so my key is invalid. So I pop i my old Vista 64 disc, reboot, and get ready to install. During the vista installatios, I delete both my partitions... my 2.2TB win7 one and my 700-odd GB one made by the 3TB utlity (I figured better to re-run everything under my proper OS). Strangely they do not combine back into a single volume of "unpartitioned space" but still sow as two seperate "unpartitioned space" volumes. Okay, I figure just a side effect of what the 3TB unlocked did, I guess I will sill have C+D when Im finally done. So I install my Vista64.
Now Im in Vista64, and going to put in my Win7 upgrade disc. So I open "My Computer" and it says I have only a single "C" drive of 2.77 TB. This, I thought, was supposed to be impossible? So I double-check Disk Manager and sure enough, only one 2.77 TB partition. I go ahead and rn t Win7 upgrade, but at the end (everthing is working from the look of it) I still have a single 2.77 TB drive which from what I read shouldn't be able to exist as a boot drive unless I have UEFI mobo. As far as I know don't, I hae a Gigabyte Z77M-D3H-MVP wich is using an American Megatrends BIOS, not UEFI.
So uhh.... long story I know but have I done goofed GAF?
EDIT -- Hmm ok so maybe I have answered my own quesiton. If I dig through Gigabytes website, they say this mobo does have UEFI. This is a bit confusig because I had understood that "UEFI" replaces "BIOS" but through the printed guide Gigabyte repeatedly rerfers to it as a "BIOS". But, maybe re-installing made it a GPT partition which would allow it to be a single volume, and UEFI will boot from that. Coud be... don't really have any other explanaion right now I guess