Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Can anyone please help?

My Pc is shutting off automatically (hard shutdown, like someone pulled the plug directly) suddenly. Restarting wont help. Only disconnecting the PSU power supply (pulling the plug from PSU and then plugging it in) would make it start. Weirdly, if I pull the PSU wire from socket (rather than from the PSU) or just turn the button on PSU off and on again, and then try to boot- the PC would come to life for a millisecond and then turn off again. Then it wont show any reaction on turning on until I pull the power supply and reinsert. I have no idea whats going on.
 
kittoo said:
Can anyone please help?

My Pc is shutting off automatically (hard shutdown, like someone pulled the plug directly) suddenly. Restarting wont help. Only disconnecting the PSU power supply (pulling the plug from PSU and then plugging it in) would make it start. Weirdly, if I pull the PSU wire from socket (rather than from the PSU) or just turn the button on PSU off and on again, and then try to boot- the PC would come to life for a millisecond and then turn off again. Then it wont show any reaction on turning on until I pull the power supply and reinsert. I have no idea whats going on.
Click to expand...

Hard shutdowns are usually PSU problems. You can download Speedfan to monitor your CPU temperatures just to rule out that as an issue. If your computer still shuts down spontaneously when CPU temps are lower than 95C, then it is most likely that you have to replace your PSU.
 
Currently working as a Service Desk Analyst at a pretty good University helpdesk (been there for one year). I deal with quite a range of things including printer driver installs (from University server), network issues, virus/malware removal, etc. The sort of things you'd expect to encounter from staff and students.

I have a USB on me at all times that has necessary software/tools that can be useful on the desk. Right now it includes...

  • Malware Bytes
  • ADWCleaner
  • Printer Drivers
  • Common programs that are quicker to install from USB (Chrome etc.)
  • Certificates (Network/Servers etc. regarding the University)

There's a few other things but does anyone have any suggestions that they'd want on a go-to USB?
 
Anyone have any ideas on what's behind these minor yet annoying Windows 10 issues?

  • random and minor keyboard lag
  • random and minor mouse lag
  • computer takes anywhere from 30 seconds to sometimes 3 minutes to shut down, OS is installed on an SSD

About the computer:
  • clean-installed latest version of Windows 10 .iso from MS on new SSD (c:\)
  • fully updated
  • scanned computer with Avira Anti-Virus and Windows Defender, both came back clean
  • noticed issues after connecting and formatting the original Windows 10 HDD for use as a secondary hard-drive (d:\)
 
Oi TSGAF.

I'm running a 2500k on a z68ma-d2h-b3. Been using 2x 4GB 1333mhz until now and since I'm still far from a bigger upgrade, decided to up my ram speed and got a 1x 8GB 1866mhz HyperX. Mobo supposedly supports up to 2133mhz, the memory is z68 compatible, let's go.

Took the old ones out, put the new one in, power up, fans spin for one or two seconds, briefly stop, spin again, stop and so on. Don't even reach POST. No speaker, so I can't rely on beeps. Tried all slots, no dice.

Take the 8GB out, put one of the 4GB in, it boots nicely. The 1866 limited to 1333, but it boots. 8GB together with the 4GB, either on same or different channels, it boots only when the 8GB isn't on slot 1 or if they're on dual channel. All three together, it boots. So it's just the 8GB on single channel (any slot if alone, slot 1 if with company) that doesn't work.

So! I've been thinking on chaning the 1x8gb for 2x4gb of the same brand/speed for dual channel. Or grabbing another 8gb. Would it be as simple as that to make it work?
 
So I bought a Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windfore 6GB and got two problems:

- the fans (I think it's the fans) make weird noise, like short groans. I assume it's the fans stopping or starting but I'm not sure...

- I can see some weird flickering from time to time. Mostly when I'm in Windows, didn't recognize it yet when ingame. It looks like there would be a black/grey-striped picture for just a millisecond

Is anyone familiar with these problems?
 
Hey Techsupport GAF, does anyone have a recommendation on a piece of software for Win10, that keeps tabs on all your drivers and updates them if needed? I've had some weird stuff with my motherboard and Bluetooth not working and USB3 drivers crapping out, and Windows only has basic support for this stuff. So, anything that's reliable, safe and perhaps free or cheap?
 
maouvin said:
Oi TSGAF.

I'm running a 2500k on a z68ma-d2h-b3. Been using 2x 4GB 1333mhz until now and since I'm still far from a bigger upgrade, decided to up my ram speed and got a 1x 8GB 1866mhz HyperX. Mobo supposedly supports up to 2133mhz, the memory is z68 compatible, let's go.

Took the old ones out, put the new one in, power up, fans spin for one or two seconds, briefly stop, spin again, stop and so on. Don't even reach POST. No speaker, so I can't rely on beeps. Tried all slots, no dice.

Take the 8GB out, put one of the 4GB in, it boots nicely. The 1866 limited to 1333, but it boots. 8GB together with the 4GB, either on same or different channels, it boots only when the 8GB isn't on slot 1 or if they're on dual channel. All three together, it boots. So it's just the 8GB on single channel (any slot if alone, slot 1 if with company) that doesn't work.

So! I've been thinking on chaning the 1x8gb for 2x4gb of the same brand/speed for dual channel. Or grabbing another 8gb. Would it be as simple as that to make it work?
Click to expand...

IIRC your 2500k (and other sandy bridge chips) is only rated up to 1333mhz, any higher is considered out of spec. Your motherboard supporting up to 2133mhz is probably for ivy bridge cpu's, which also work with z68 boards.

You pairing it with your old 4gb stick is probably forcing the 8GB stick to match spec (freq, timing, voltages etc.) which is why it boots when you've got the 4GB in slot 1. If you've got the 8GB in slot 1, your board is probably trying to force your 4GB to match the 8GB which is why it won't boot in that config but will boot in the other.

I'd say just get a lower specced 8GB stick.
 
Cerity said:
IIRC your 2500k (and other sandy bridge chips) is only rated up to 1333mhz, any higher is considered out of spec. Your motherboard supporting up to 2133mhz is probably for ivy bridge cpu's, which also work with z68 boards.

You pairing it with your old 4gb stick is probably forcing the 8GB stick to match spec (freq, timing, voltages etc.) which is why it boots when you've got the 4GB in slot 1. If you've got the 8GB in slot 1, your board is probably trying to force your 4GB to match the 8GB which is why it won't boot in that config but will boot in the other.

I'd say just get a lower specced 8GB stick.
Click to expand...

Oh, I see. Thanks!

edit: but what about that talk of going 2133mhz on i5-2500k to take a bit more from this old cpu?

edit 2: Thanks again Cerity! vv
 
Just consider going over 1333mhz an overclock and as far as overclocking in general goes, it'll always depend on your own specific hardware. Maybe you just got unlucky and that the memory controller on your 2500k is poor or it's just aging.

You could try something else but your setup not booting with a 1866 stick isn't a particularly good sign.
 
Any VMWare experts??

Linux box, 16.04 Ubuntu (1 hard drive) I want to convert to a VM to use with ESXi. Got a Windows 10 Desktop I can plug hard drive into to image etc.

What the's best way to do this? Although I might just end up creating a new machine if its easier.
 
So, this morning we had a client reboot a server and out product wouldn't come back online. Turns out there was invalid data in of the xml fields in the database and that it couldn't parse for the startup. I had to spend 3 hours digging through the DB to find the bad data. Instead of a reference number for a part in one of the rows....I found the following (not joking)

Wheat Berry Bread Wheat Berry Bread Recipe Becky Luigart-Stayner; Lydia DeGaris-Pursell Read Reviews (3) Wheat berry bread is a hearty sandwich bread. Cooked wheat berries add texture, and the wheat bran gives the surface a nice rustic finish. The recipe makes two loaves, so you can freeze one for later. Yield: 18 servings (serving size: 1 slice) Nutritional Information Calories 198 Caloriesfromfat 6 % Fat 1.4 g Satfat 0.3 g Monofat 0.2 g Polyfat 0.4 g Protein 7.2 g Carbohydrate 39.8 g Fiber 3.9 g Cholesterol 1 mg Iron 3.6 mg Sodium 334 mg Calcium 37 mg Search for Recipes by Nutrition Data Print Recipe Email Save Recipe Add to Shopping List . Ingredients 3 cups water 3/4 cup uncooked wheat berries 1 package dry yeast (about 2 1/4 teaspoons) 1 cup 2% reduced-fat milk 2 tablespoons dark honey (such as buckwheat) 2 1/2 teaspoons salt 3 cups bread flour, divided 2 cups whole wheat flour 1 cup amaranth flour Cooking spray 2 tablespoons bread flour 2 tablespoons wheat bran Preparation Combine water and wheat berries in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 1 hour or until tender. Drain wheat in a colander over a bowl, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid; set wheat berries aside. Let reserved cooking liquid stand until warm (100° to 110°). Stir yeast into cooking liquid. Combine milk, honey, and salt in a small, heavy saucepan, stirring with a whisk until honey and salt dissolve. Heat milk mixture over medium heat until warm (100° to 110°). Add milk mixture to yeast mixture, stirring with a whisk; let stand 5 minutes. Lightly spoon 3 cups bread flour, whole wheat flour, and amaranth flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Stir 2 1/2 cups bread flour, whole wheat flour, and amaranth flour into yeast mixture. Turn dough out onto a floured surface. Knead until smooth and elastic (about 10 minutes); add up to 1/2 cup bread flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, to prevent dough from sticking to hands (dough will feel tacky). Place dough in a large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to coat top. Cover and let rise in a warm place (85°), free from drafts, 1 hour or until doubled in size. (Press two fingers into dough. If indentation remains, the dough has risen enough.) Punch dough down; cover and let rest 5 minutes. Coat two 9 x 5-inch loaf pans with cooking spray; dust each with 1 tablespoon bread flour. Divide dough in half. Working with 1 portion at a time (cover remaining dough to keep from drying), knead half of wheat berries into dough; place dough in prepared pan. Sprinkle dough with 1 tablespoon wheat bran. Repeat procedure with remaining dough, wheat berries, and wheat bran. Cover and let rise 45 minutes or until doubled in size. Preheat oven to 375°. Bake at 375° for 45 minutes or until golden. Cool loaves in pans 10 minutes on a wire rack; remove from pans. Cool completely on wire rack.



I have NOOOO fucking idea how that got into the DB but I feel obligated to try this recipe.
 
Hi, guys, hoping someone can help with a bit of an audio issue I'm having since it's doing my head in.

So my current set up consists of separate headphones and recording mic. I've used both without issue for Curse voice chat for a while now.

Last night, I got up to get something to drink. When I returned, for some reason my friends couldn't hear me anymore. As it turns out, while I am perfectly capable of hearing them, they can now only hear the audio of videos and music playing on my PC when they're turned on loudly. My voice, however, isn't transmitting.

I've tried everything I could think of. Reinstalled drivers, restarted my PC, tried different hardware - none of it seems to work.

The PC recognises the devices as plugged in and working. My headphones are still receiving audio. It's simply the recording device that's not actually transmitting my voice.

I'm a bit tired and frustrated, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Can built-up dust cause a computer to just power off right after I first turn it on? Because I'm really hoping it's dust.

The second time I turned it on it took a while but everything went fine. Very weird.
 
Probably had this issue for a while but just now figured out what's the problem.
My fans aren't working on my graphics card except when I manually put them on 100%. After that I can move them down to 85% but below that they go off, if I first try to put them on 1-99% they won't go on (usually, sometimes they do at random speed).
I've been wondering for a while why my graphics card was overheating, 80c sometimes when watching a movie, usually 50s at idle but in games it's at 80 and I figured out the fan I heard was only kicking in when it reached 85 or something. In the programs fan is shown to work, it goes up and down with temperature but it's actually not working at all.
I have had it set up on 1c:1% in msi afterburner and it worked for a while but I don't recall when this started happening, probably been a while lol.

I uninstalled drivers (with tool), I reinstalled different ones, did it all in safe mode but fans are still off.
What should I do? I don't have money for new one and I'm gonna take it to service on monday if I find a place that won't keep it for days.
I have AMD (msi) 7970.

Edit) as i was pulling the fucking graphics cars out slowly the fucking pciexpress plastic came off with it and now pins are bare. If I try to put it back it will probably bend and if I power on pc it will short circuit
So I need new graphics card and mobo now, probably cpu while at it. So I'm 1000+e down and im gonna go kill myself now becausei need my pc and dont have money for replacements
 
So I am having problems with my micro sd card. It was in my raspberry pi and while trying to load a n64 rom, it crashed, and so I then had to unplug the power for the pi. Now my micro sd card isn't being recognised by the pi or any computer, and is conpletely useless.

Is there any way to get it working again? I don't care about saving any data still on there, I just want to get it working.
 
On Windows 10 my office file cache is huge, like 60GB on my SSD. Reading online the suggested solution by microsoft is open upload center and change cache to 1 day and have it delete cached files. When I do this nothing changes. I can delete all the files in the cache, but they always come back within a day.

Anyone know how to solve this? I'm fine either having no cache, or moving it to another hard drive.

Edit: pretty sure the cause of the huge file size is I use onedrive for business to sync my work files, unfortunately not using it isn't really an option.
 
I've recently come in to possession of a Samsung UE40KU6000 4K UHD TV. I've been watching some 4K content on Netflix to try it out and, as expected, the image is beautiful. So clear and sharp. But the settings for picture are set to default. Is there a guide to get the best possible image? Also, is motion flow any good? I have it turned on and the picture is smoother, but it looks sped up.
 
I have a weird issue with my pc. It happens even after windows reinstall so it's not just that (tried 2 versions).

Basically, after waking up from sleep (by mouse or keyboard), keyboard usually won't work. It's not getting any power (should light up), mouse usually does but after a longer sleep now even mouse didn't work.
I tried all sorts of things, power settings, device manager allowing to wake and disallowing to save power on but nothing seems to work. When my keyboard stops working I noticed it's not even showing in device manager and scanning for new hardware doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do or try?
 
I have a 2010 Sony TV that I need some advice on.

When I turn it on, the green indicator light appears and I hear the "click", but nothing appears, not even the Bravia label. I unplugged it and still nothing.

Any advice or tips?
 
So I have a rather strange issue occurring on my PC. After watching streams using Twitch or streaming music using the Google Music player my FPS in-game plummets. I have a GTX 980 and no other programs seems to cause this issue. I've tried both Chrome and Firefox, and the issue occurs in both. I'm talking drops from 120 fps to 23 fps. The game doesn't matter. It happens in Dota 2, CSGO and Shadow Warriror 2. The problem goes away when I restart my computer and things return to normal. I'm looking for any hints people may have or even tips about what to search for so I can find a solution to this problem.
 
Hey everyone,

I have this issue on every other startup. I get a message saying I need to boot from a bootable disk. (something of the sort)

So every other time I boot, I have to hit F11 so I can choose my OS drive. I have the OS drive set as default boot drive etc. etc. For some reason when I do it manually, the next time I boot it's almost always fine, but then the time after that it's confused again and forever confused till I do it manually.

I have an ASROCK motherboard which I got with my Haswell-E CPU. Should narrow it down enough, I hope. I can get an exact number if that'd help. Thanks. :)
 
I've been noticing this strange, black pixelation/distortion whenever a video plays:
uXKjBKN.png


It usually plays properly either after a couple of seconds or once the video is rewound, but it's still inconvenient. How do I stop this from happening or needing to be fixed in the first place?
 
I'm on Ubuntu, and for whatever reason Chrome has stopped letting me drag images to the desktop. I click, I drag and get the little + icon, I release, and it vanishes with no file. I haven't had any success in finding anything recent online about how to fix the problem.
 
Mike M said:
I'm on Ubuntu, and for whatever reason Chrome has stopped letting me drag images to the desktop. I click, I drag and get the little + icon, I release, and it vanishes with no file. I haven't had any success in finding anything recent online about how to fix the problem.
Click to expand...
Have you tried dragging it into a directory window? Which desktop environment are you using?
 
willsimth1 said:
Hey everyone,

I have this issue on every other startup. I get a message saying I need to boot from a bootable disk. (something of the sort)

So every other time I boot, I have to hit F11 so I can choose my OS drive. I have the OS drive set as default boot drive etc. etc. For some reason when I do it manually, the next time I boot it's almost always fine, but then the time after that it's confused again and forever confused till I do it manually.

I have an ASROCK motherboard which I got with my Haswell-E CPU. Should narrow it down enough, I hope. I can get an exact number if that'd help. Thanks. :)
Click to expand...
It can be the CMOS battery running out of juice and cannot retain the settings or the BIOS is corrupted.

You can try reset the CMOS and/or replace the CMOS battery. Looking at the manual for your board to see how.

Fastest thing you test is to flash the BIOS with the latest BIOS. Doing this is always risky to a certain degree though so always do it via the BIOS itself and not via Windows.
CazTGG said:
I've been noticing this strange, black pixelation/distortion whenever a video plays:
uXKjBKN.png


It usually plays properly either after a couple of seconds or once the video is rewound, but it's still inconvenient. How do I stop this from happening or needing to be fixed in the first place?
Click to expand...

Turn off hardware acceleration in your browser. This is a NVIDIA driver bug, assuming you have one and updated to the last 2 recent drivers lately.
 
Uriah said:
So I have a rather strange issue occurring on my PC. After watching streams using Twitch or streaming music using the Google Music player my FPS in-game plummets. I have a GTX 980 and no other programs seems to cause this issue. I've tried both Chrome and Firefox, and the issue occurs in both. I'm talking drops from 120 fps to 23 fps. The game doesn't matter. It happens in Dota 2, CSGO and Shadow Warriror 2. The problem goes away when I restart my computer and things return to normal. I'm looking for any hints people may have or even tips about what to search for so I can find a solution to this problem.
Click to expand...

So a slight update on this: reinstalling my GPU driver seems to help but this is is a obviously not a solution, as restarting is quicker.
 
demented said:
I have a weird issue with my pc. It happens even after windows reinstall so it's not just that (tried 2 versions).

Basically, after waking up from sleep (by mouse or keyboard), keyboard usually won't work. It's not getting any power (should light up), mouse usually does but after a longer sleep now even mouse didn't work.
I tried all sorts of things, power settings, device manager allowing to wake and disallowing to save power on but nothing seems to work. When my keyboard stops working I noticed it's not even showing in device manager and scanning for new hardware doesn't help.
Any ideas what to do or try?
Click to expand...
Taking usb cord and plugging it back in makes it work but I need better solution. Also noticed while my mouse works it's not recognized by razer synapse so I can't change profile, make it light up etc.. Plugging it out and in works as well.
 
I've run into an issue trying to uninstall mywinlocker. I'm getting uninstallation errors 1721 and 1722 when I try to run the uninstaller. I've tried outright deleting the install folder but it's still listed as installed. How do I get rid of this thing?
 
MogCakes said:
I've run into an issue trying to uninstall mywinlocker. I'm getting uninstallation errors 1721 and 1722 when I try to run the uninstaller. I've tried outright deleting the install folder but it's still listed as installed. How do I get rid of this thing?
Click to expand...

One option would be to take ccleaner, delete the installation entry, delete any files under \Program Files\ that remain, run a registry cleaner to clean up as many orphaned registry entries as possible, manually delete shortcuts, and finally manually clean up the startup entries and/or scheduled tasks and services that remain.

A possible, more elegant solution would be to re-download the installer, install the program as if you're going to use it, then try the default uninstall procedure again.

Now I have a question. The 'Reset Windows 10' option, how robust is it? Let's say I buy an OEM pc and, as always, it's loaded with bloatware from the manufacturer. Will running Reset Windows 10 get rid of that and return it to a fresh, clean install state, or would it reset to a factory state, bloatware intact?

EDIT: Found my answer here: http://www.howtogeek.com/216751/blo...he-need-to-ever-reinstall-windows-on-new-pcs/
 
Uriah said:
So a slight update on this: reinstalling my GPU driver seems to help but this is is a obviously not a solution, as restarting is quicker.
Click to expand...

Tried re-applying thermal paste to my CPU and while my temps dropped, I still have the issue.
 
Well I am at a complete loss. About 6 months ago, my PC suddenly stopped posting with 4 sticks of RAM (MSI X99A SLI PLUS and a 5820k). I tried everything I could think of, multiple configurations for the ram and tested each stick my computer and a friends. Reseated all parts, checked for bent pins on the Mobo CPU socket. They all checked out fine but I just couldn't get 4 sticks to work together. This lead me to believe there was an issue with my Mobo DIMM slots or CPU's memory controller. However, I bought some different RAM, plugged them in and violia! It was alive.

Fast forward, to about a month ago, they stop working again (To be clear PC boots, all fans, lights run. USB doesn't power and no post). At this point I'm thinking ok I can't just buy more RAM this is a pointless struggle it's time to get some RMA's done. I planned to send in both my Mobo and my CPU at the same time, however I wanted them cross shipped (Where you pay up front for a replacement part and have it refunded after you send your part back.) MSI said sure, Intel said no. I got my new Mobo, rebuilt. Same issue. Probably the CPU then, I call Intel again, try again to ask for cross shipping. "Sure, we can do that." ....!??!?!?!!?! success. They overnight it to me, based Inteld. I take my old CPU out and clean it off, plop the replacement in, paste it and I just tried several boots 4 sticks still don't work. Writing this on the PC with 2 Sticks again now.

So... am I just a fool and the problem is in somewhere more obvious? Is it possibly the PSU causing this issue? I've never heard of a power supply causing such an odd issue, but anything is possible.
 
Aztechnology said:
Well I am at a complete loss. About 6 months ago, my PC suddenly stopped posting with 4 sticks of RAM (MSI X99A SLI PLUS and a 5820k). I tried everything I could think of, multiple configurations for the ram and tested each stick my computer and a friends. Reseated all parts, checked for bent pins on the Mobo CPU socket. They all checked out fine but I just couldn't get 4 sticks to work together. This lead me to believe there was an issue with my Mobo DIMM slots or CPU's memory controller. However, I bought some different RAM, plugged them in and violia! It was alive.

Fast forward, to about a month ago, they stop working again (To be clear PC boots, all fans, lights run. USB doesn't power and no post). At this point I'm thinking ok I can't just buy more RAM this is a pointless struggle it's time to get some RMA's done. I planned to send in both my Mobo and my CPU at the same time, however I wanted them cross shipped (Where you pay up front for a replacement part and have it refunded after you send your part back.) MSI said sure, Intel said no. I got my new Mobo, rebuilt. Same issue. Probably the CPU then, I call Intel again, try again to ask for cross shipping. "Sure, we can do that." ....!??!?!?!!?! success. They overnight it to me, based Inteld. I take my old CPU out and clean it off, plop the replacement in, paste it and I just tried several boots 4 sticks still don't work. Writing this on the PC with 2 Sticks again now.

So... am I just a fool and the problem is in somewhere more obvious? Is it possibly the PSU causing this issue? I've never heard of a power supply causing such an odd issue, but anything is possible.
Click to expand...

The PC stop POSTING suddenly can be because of BIOS corruption. Have you been OC'ing and experiencing crashes?

Also, what BIOS are you on? Have you tried reflash the BIOS to the latest version? I see they make a boatload of memory compatibility fixes in all of their BIOS updates. Also double check your RAM against the memory compatibility list.
 
Aztechnology said:
Well I am at a complete loss. About 6 months ago, my PC suddenly stopped posting with 4 sticks of RAM (MSI X99A SLI PLUS and a 5820k). I tried everything I could think of, multiple configurations for the ram and tested each stick my computer and a friends. Reseated all parts, checked for bent pins on the Mobo CPU socket. They all checked out fine but I just couldn't get 4 sticks to work together. This lead me to believe there was an issue with my Mobo DIMM slots or CPU's memory controller. However, I bought some different RAM, plugged them in and violia! It was alive.

Fast forward, to about a month ago, they stop working again (To be clear PC boots, all fans, lights run. USB doesn't power and no post). At this point I'm thinking ok I can't just buy more RAM this is a pointless struggle it's time to get some RMA's done. I planned to send in both my Mobo and my CPU at the same time, however I wanted them cross shipped (Where you pay up front for a replacement part and have it refunded after you send your part back.) MSI said sure, Intel said no. I got my new Mobo, rebuilt. Same issue. Probably the CPU then, I call Intel again, try again to ask for cross shipping. "Sure, we can do that." ....!??!?!?!!?! success. They overnight it to me, based Inteld. I take my old CPU out and clean it off, plop the replacement in, paste it and I just tried several boots 4 sticks still don't work. Writing this on the PC with 2 Sticks again now.

So... am I just a fool and the problem is in somewhere more obvious? Is it possibly the PSU causing this issue? I've never heard of a power supply causing such an odd issue, but anything is possible.
Click to expand...


I have this exact problem. Verbatim. Using two sticks right now as well. Weird.
 
lordfuzzybutt said:
The PC stop POSTING suddenly can be because of BIOS corruption. Have you been OC'ing and experiencing crashes?

When the issue first started on my first board I had an unstable overclock but it was accidentle after months of a stable OC because of accidently switching the XMP profile which changed my blck speed and thus the OC on my CPU as well.

I have a new Mobo and CPU now though and the same issue.

Also, what BIOS are you on? Have you tried reflash the BIOS to the latest version? I see they make a boatload of memory compatibility fixes in all of their BIOS updates. Also double check your RAM against the memory compatibility list.
Click to expand...

I've flashed to the latest Bios on both my previous board and the new board. Memory checks out. It was part of a bundle as well.

Antti said:
I have this exact problem. Verbatim. Using two sticks right now as well. Weird.
Click to expand...

Let me know if you find a working solution.
 
I started getting this error:

0xc00007b Error – The application was unable to start correctly

...yesterday completely at random when I tried installing my copy of S.T.A.L.K.E.R on Win10 64bit PC.

Every other game works fine but for some reason this is adamant with the 7b error. I of course have googled it and solutions are reinstall .net, directx, c++ which i (think) i did - just grabbed them all from MS site...but still getting the error message.

Any ideas?
 
lordfuzzybutt said:
It can be the CMOS battery running out of juice and cannot retain the settings or the BIOS is corrupted.

You can try reset the CMOS and/or replace the CMOS battery. Looking at the manual for your board to see how.

Fastest thing you test is to flash the BIOS with the latest BIOS. Doing this is always risky to a certain degree though so always do it via the BIOS itself and not via Windows.
Click to expand...
I have two BIOS profiles and both act like this, I've reset the CMOS a few times too. Like I said it's a Haswell-e, just got it built it last June...do you think the battery could've been old or something when I got it? I'm really out of ideas as to what the problem could be.
 
Hey folks, hoping someone can confirm that my power supply may be on the fritz, or perhaps suggest other things I can look at.

While gaming, I've noticed that sometimes my computer will randomly restart. No blue screen, just a hard reboot. What's weird is that I've been getting these restarts a lot while playing Firewatch. Sometimes I've been able to play for an hour before a restart, and in certain other sections of the game it will restart within a minute of starting the game.

I've had this occur in other games(Wasteland 2, Path of Exile, Dead Island) as well, but not to the degree of Firewatch. I've been running with this machine for 2ish years now without issues and have upgraded to Windows 10.

Things I've checked/done

  • Checked the windows event logger to see if any errors pop up. The only one that does is a general error saying the computer restarted without being shut down properly.
  • Disabled and even uninstalled AVG
  • Checked the temps of my mobo, processor & graphics cards. They highest was one of the GPUs at 70c during these restarts.
  • Disabled SLI mode on my cards & ran as a single card
  • Updated my Nvidia divers to the latest
  • Attempted to lower the graphics quality of Firewatch
  • Ran windows RAM checker - no errors were found
  • Calculated out how many watts my computer needs to operate. Online calculators suggested 780 watts - I'm running with a 850 watt PSU.

Everything I have points to the PSU either overheating or just not being able to supply the necessary power, but I wanted a second opinion before I went out a purchased another one.

So what say you GAF? Could it just be Firewatch doesn't like my system? Perhaps it's a windows 10 issue? Maybe an Nvidia driver one?

Thanks for any advice provided!
 
You mentioned SLI. I would try the game with one card inserted, preferably the secondary GPU (since if it's a GPU issue, it's likely related to your current primary one, though I would test both either way), see if the crashes still occur.

What GPUs do you have, and what PSU? Meeting wattage isn't the only factor if you have a crappy one.
 
Corpekata said:
You mentioned SLI. I would try the game with one card inserted, preferably the secondary GPU (since if it's a GPU issue, it's likely related to your current primary one, though I would test both either way), see if the crashes still occur.

What GPUs do you have, and what PSU? Meeting wattage isn't the only factor if you have a crappy one.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! I will probably take out a card over this weekend to test out like you suggest.

My GPU are 2x EVGA GeForce GTX780 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUIVSNS/?tag=neogaf0e-20)

And my PSU is a Corsair HX850 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139011)
 
Hey guys,

I have recently been getting a lot of CAPTCHA checks when visiting various websites, never had that before. I thought my PC might have some malware, but it's the same when accessing it from my smartphone. Is there anything I can do? I reset my router, no third parties are logged in the network..very weird. It's incredibly annoying.
 
Instead of rewriting it all I'll just post the thread for quick reference. Basically I'm switching from a old headset to headphones with a mod mic. I need a 2x Female 3.5mm headset mic/headphone adapter to 3.5mm male adapter for my Astro A40 Mixamp. What is my best option?

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=223902780&highlight=#post223902780

Considering pulling the plug on this Sennheiser PCV-05 Adapter as it looks a little more rugged and I had a tendency to get my wires caught on things.
 
Going a bit mental here over an issue.

My Windows 10 install went nuts and stopped booting, or if I managed to get in, it'd freeze on basic stuff like using Explorer and other simple tasks. This was a perfectly fine PC (i5 4690k, GTX 1070) before this shit kicked in.

Anyway, I unplugged all my secondary HDD's, kept my Windows SSD in and completed nuked it, and put a new Windows 10 installation on it. Working perfect now.

But when I connect one of my old HDD's, the PC refuses to boot at all. It'll get past POST and then just endlessly give me a blue Windows logo and spinner. What the hell is the problem? I can't even get into BIOS when its connected because it'll just stay on a black screen once I hit DEL during POST, so I can't check if its a boot order issue in case it has a rogue loader on it or something.

I've set up SATA hot plugging so I can connect it when I'm booted into Windows, and it appears on Device Manager when I do so, but disconnects after a few minutes. It doesn't appear in Disk Management. The other HDD is just fine though, and never had anything stored on it besides being written to when recording footage from games.
 
Would a dedicated video card free up enough RAM to make Photoshop run better?

I have a 6th gen i5 processor with Intel HD 530 on-board graphics and 12GB RAM. Photoshop starts lagging when I'm working with large .psd files around 50MB and higher.
 
Joe said:
Would a dedicated video card free up enough RAM to make Photoshop run better?

I have a 6th gen i5 processor with Intel HD 530 on-board graphics and 12GB RAM. Photoshop starts lagging when I'm working with large .psd files around 50MB and higher.
Click to expand...

Before you start looking at hardware bottlenecks, make sure you are adjusting performance settings (Edit>Preferences>Performance) for different types of psd's.

For large files I work on (700mb+ with 500+ layers) I will bring the cache level down to 2 with a tile size of 128k.

When doing other types of work on smaller files/less layers (extracting people/objects from backgrounds etc) I set cache at 6 and tile size at 1028k.

There are optimize buttons on the left that are a quick option for changing these settings but I prefer to find my own balance.
 
I'm having WiFi issues. Every few minutes, the connection kind of freezes. After about fifteen seconds, all packages sent in that time arrive all at once.

So for instance, when streaming a video with Kodi, at some point it locks up, and then after ~15s the video resumes and fast-forwards.
When I ping a website, I can see all responses sent during the freeze arrive at once with a time of 10-15s.

I haven't made any changes to my setup recently, so I'm really clueless about what's going on. Does this kind of issue sound familiar to anyone? Please let me know if you need any more details.

I've already tried changing the WiFi channel, restarting the router, restarting my client devices and deleting and re-adding the connection on my client devices.
 
Alright GAF, need help.

So yesterday I had my phone in my pocket and somehow my screen turned on and started opening shit and changing settings. Anyways, my gmail app (android) isn't showing my emails as it did before.


iEOmJ0w.png


0Lxj8QD.png

so this is how my inbox looks at the moment, empty..

c60xFjp.png

But if i select one of the subcategories (Forum for example), it shows the items in it.
"Forum" and a few other categories are set to 'bundle with the inbox', so these should be showing up in picture 2, but are not.

vcJVxkX.png
Click to expand...


HALP!
 
Alright gaf, I've got a bit of an odd one.

I seem to have some weird issue in Google Chrome (could be browser general, honestly don't use anything else but Edge, for Netflix purposes) of screen tearing during streaming. As in, I'll be watching youtube, iplayer, or crunchyroll, and the screen will tear within the video. Typically towards the bottom, and in youtube's case it sometimes get extra weird by being a box shaped tear (as in, with a vertical tear where the horizontal one ends). I've got a GTX 970, for reference.
 
JonnyDBrit said:
Alright gaf, I've got a bit of an odd one.

I seem to have some weird issue in Google Chrome (could be browser general, honestly don't use anything else but Edge, for Netflix purposes) of screen tearing during streaming. As in, I'll be watching youtube, iplayer, or crunchyroll, and the screen will tear within the video. Typically towards the bottom, and in youtube's case it sometimes get extra weird by being a box shaped tear (as in, with a vertical tear where the horizontal one ends). I've got a GTX 970, for reference.
Click to expand...

Try this?
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-3133977/screen-tearing-google-chrome.html
 
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