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Television Displays and Technology Thread: This is a fantasy based on OLED

ShapeGSX

Member
So all the other stuff like Sony x1 extreme processor not being counted in the whole package or something?


Edit: And Im already sick and tired of seeing Premium TV having a subpar speaker. Its a premium for fuck sake.

Anything that fits in a TV package is subpar.

And this is coming from an XBR-65X900A owner with supposedly great speakers. I can't stand listening to the things. They look awesome, though.

Sony-XBR-65X900A-Chi.jpg
 
Watching that HDvest video for the B7. I have a C7 being delivered tomorrow. The whole 4:4:4 chroma renaming HDMI to PC has me confused. I'll be running one hdmi cable through my onkyo receiver. This will have my PS4 pro and Xbox one S etc hooked into it. Should I be naming the hdmi connection to the receiver as PC? He mentioned it doesn't work for HDR? What settings do I use for the lowest level of input lag without sacrificing picture quality
 

tokkun

Member
Watching that HDvest video for the B7. I have a C7 being delivered tomorrow. The whole 4:4:4 chroma renaming HDMI to PC has me confused. I'll be running one hdmi cable through my onkyo receiver. This will have my PS4 pro and Xbox one S etc hooked into it. Should I be naming the hdmi connection to the receiver as PC? He mentioned it doesn't work for HDR? What settings do I use for the lowest level of input lag without sacrificing picture quality

I don't have one, but my understanding from comments on AVSforums is that what you need to do is select the PC icon for the HDMI input you are using. I don't think you need to rename the input (although this is what you had to do for some TVs in the past, so maybe that's where the confusion is coming from).

Keep in mind that you might not actually notice much difference if you are just using it with consoles. The reason that 4:4:4 is considered a PC-centric option is because it tends to only be visible with fine details with high contrast when viewed up close - most notably fine text viewed when using a TV at close range (as a monitor). If you aren't using your TV as a PC monitor, you probably don't need to worry about it.
 
I don't have one, but my understanding from comments on AVSforums is that what you need to do is select the PC icon for the HDMI input you are using. I don't think you need to rename the input (although this is what you had to do for some TVs in the past, so maybe that's where the confusion is coming from).

Keep in mind that you might not actually notice much difference if you are just using it with consoles. The reason that 4:4:4 is considered a PC-centric option is because it tends to only be visible with fine details with high contrast when viewed up close - most notably fine text viewed when using a TV at close range (as a monitor). If you aren't using your TV as a PC monitor, you probably don't need to worry about it.

Thanks for elaborating a bit. I'll likely use the tv as a monitor in the sense of running steam big picture mode and playing games through it. I just want to make sure I'm also getting HDR etc. it would be a giant pain in the ass to have to configure the settings every time I want to watch a movie or tv or play a game
 

Schlomo

Member
Thanks for elaborating a bit. I'll likely use the tv as a monitor in the sense of running steam big picture mode and playing games through it. I just want to make sure I'm also getting HDR etc. it would be a giant pain in the ass to have to configure the settings every time I want to watch a movie or tv or play a game

I'm not really sure how any of this works, but I noticed with my B7 that you're limited to 8bc if you choose 4:4:4, so that might prevent HDR from being displayed?
 
HDTVtest video review of the B7, Vincent reckons 35% improvement over B6.

https://youtu.be/F9OvPfPd8s0

Awesome review just like always from hdtvtest.

Look at the massive difference of the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) compared to 2016! Left one looks more like my VT60 plasma, right one looks like the brightness you have on a (average) LCD. I saw the C7 next to the B6 in person, and even in the store i could see the difference in light output with a white screen.
This is a huge improvement for a self-emitting TV (OLED).

And 2017 LG OLED's have just 21ms in the ISF modes with HDMI input label on "PC". Fantastic!

downloadfilesxz7n.png


"Don't let anyone tell you that the improvements are minor" - Vincent Teoh
 
Awesome review just like always from hdtvtest.

Look at the massive difference of the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) compared to 2016! Left one looks more like my VT60 plasma, right one looks like the brightness you have on a (avarage) LCD.

This is a huge improvement for a self-emitting TV (OLED).

And 2017 LG OLED's have just 21ms in the ISF modes with HDMI input label on "PC". Fantastic!

downloadfilesxz7n.png


"Don't let anyone tell you that the improvements are minor" - Vincent Teoh

That one picture would be enough to convince me to buy a 2017 OLED if I was buying this year.
 

Dave_6

Member
That's quite a noticeable difference but I'm happy with my B6. Can't say I won't upgrade again late next year or in 2019 though when OLEDs are near or at their peak.
 

BumRush

Member
Great to see that the C7 did make significant progress over the 6-level OLEDs, but 6 owners shouldn't be bummed...the B6 is a hell of a TV.

I'm expecting the same exact sentiment in 2018 as well (and 2019, 2020, 2021, etc.). Just the nature of TV cycles.
 

Kyoufu

Member
Great to see that the C7 did make significant progress over the 6-level OLEDs, but 6 owners shouldn't be bummed...the B6 is a hell of a TV.

I'm expecting the same exact sentiment in 2018 as well (and 2019, 2020, 2021, etc.). Just the nature of TV cycles.

I'm certain HDMI 2.1 will be a big enough upgrade for the 2018 or 2019 models to be the better buy.
 

holygeesus

Banned
You can currently get the 55" B6 for £1425 from Currys. Insane. The C7/B7 is definitely an improvement, but not sure it is currently worth it's RRP. I'll be sticking with my B6 to see if the Sony and Panny releases cause some price competition.
 
Awesome review just like always from hdtvtest.

Look at the massive difference of the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) compared to 2016! Left one looks more like my VT60 plasma, right one looks like the brightness you have on a (average) LCD. I saw the C7 next to the B6 in person, and even in the store i could see the difference in light output with a white screen.
This is a huge improvement for a self-emitting TV (OLED).

And 2017 LG OLED's have just 21ms in the ISF modes with HDMI input label on "PC". Fantastic!

downloadfilesxz7n.png


"Don't let anyone tell you that the improvements are minor" - Vincent Teoh

That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.
 

vpance

Member
That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.

You're describing ASBL. Pretty sure Vincent is just demonstrating ABL with a mostly white screen.
 

holygeesus

Banned
That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.

You can't turn off ABL.
 
That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.

You can only turn off ABSL, not ABL. And the difference is really that big on a full (almost) white screen. I saw this with my own eyes.

And the B7 can maintain it's peak brightness even with a APL (Average Picture Level) of 70%. That's impressive.
 

NYR

Member
That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.

Secret menu? Details?
 

ToD_

Member
Would someone be able to explain the motion handling differences between the Sony and 2017 LG OLED panels? From what I gathered, the LG panel operates at 120Hz natively. The majority of content displayed will be either 60Hz or 24Hz. Both are clearly exact multiples of 120Hz. Without using motion interpolation, why wouldn't both panels show 60/24Hz equally smooth? Does the LG not handle 24p content as it should?
 
I would be interested to see how bright the Sony OLED still gets when enabling BFI.
Actually have never really used the "Blinking Backlight" function of my old Sony LCD TV before and gave it a try a few days ago when playing some Nier on PC. It really does work, but a bit too dark for my taste and not sure about the flickering.

Secret menu? Details?
He's refering to the service menu that can only be accessed with a service remote, a programmable remote like a Harmony remote or an Android app (phone needs to have an IR blaster). In my case I just got a cheap replacement service remote from amazon. Comes in handy if I want to check the running hours and compensation cycle counter.
 

KevinG

Member
Great to see that the C7 did make significant progress over the 6-level OLEDs, but 6 owners shouldn't be bummed...the B6 is a hell of a TV.

I'm expecting the same exact sentiment in 2018 as well (and 2019, 2020, 2021, etc.). Just the nature of TV cycles.

I'm not bummed about my TV at all.

Had my sights set on a sub-$1000 KS8000, but ended up with a B6 through eBay that ended up costing me $1150 when all was said and done.

I won't buy another TV for at least 5 years, and to get OLED technology in my living room for the price I paid is the absolute best case scenario for my entertainment "needs".

Of course I see improvements in the new sets, with obvious tech envy and desire for those features, but I don't think I was going to beat the deal and timing of what I was about to buy.

I can't imagine where this tech will be in 2022.
 
My Samsung TV has an ARC HDMI port, and very little documentation explaining it. I think I have a vague understanding of what ARC is for, but I'm not interested in all that. All I want to know is, is an ARC HDMI supposed to also work as a regular HDMI port? Cuz any time I plug anything into it, the TV just tells me to check the cable connection of the source device, leaving me with 2 HDMI ports instead of 3.
 
My Samsung TV has an ARC HDMI port, and very little documentation explaining it. I think I have a vague understanding of what ARC is for, but I'm not interested in all that. All I want to know is, is an ARC HDMI supposed to also work as a regular HDMI port? Cuz any time I plug anything into it, the TV just tells me to check the cable connection of the source device, leaving me with 2 HDMI ports instead of 3.

Yes, it is suppose to work like a normal HDMI port. It just has extra functionality to route the audio towards whatever ARC supported device you plug in.

What model is your TV?

**Edit: Try going to Home > Settings > Audio > Audio Return Channel on the TV and see if you can disable it. Sometimes HDMI signals confuse each other.
Settings taken from here-> http://www.samsung.com/au/support/skp/faq/1039760
 

Yukstin

Member
My Samsung TV has an ARC HDMI port, and very little documentation explaining it. I think I have a vague understanding of what ARC is for, but I'm not interested in all that. All I want to know is, is an ARC HDMI supposed to also work as a regular HDMI port? Cuz any time I plug anything into it, the TV just tells me to check the cable connection of the source device, leaving me with 2 HDMI ports instead of 3.

Yes, it will function as a regular HDMI port. What source are you plugging into it? Have you tried using a different HDMI cable?
 
Yes, it is suppose to work like a normal HDMI port. It just has extra functionality to route the audio towards whatever ARC supported device you plug in.

What model is your TV?

**Edit: Try going to Home > Settings > Audio > Audio Return Channel on the TV and see if you can disable it. Sometimes HDMI signals confuse each other.
Settings taken from here-> http://www.samsung.com/au/support/skp/faq/1039760

Yes, it will function as a regular HDMI port. What source are you plugging into it? Have you tried using a different HDMI cable?

It's a Samsung KU6270, and I've tried multiple different devices, (PC, Switch, Wii U, PS3) on four different HDMI cables. I don't see any settings related to the ARC though.

 

Yukstin

Member
It's a Samsung KU6270, and I've tried multiple different devices, (PC, Switch, Wii U, PS3) on four different HDMI cables. I don't see any settings related to the ARC though.

And I'm assuming the other ports work with the devices and cables? It could be a defective port if you are still having these issues with the ARC disabled. You should also try disabling all the HDMI CEC tech as well to see if that solves your problem.
 
And I'm assuming the other ports work with the devices and cables? It could be a defective port if you are still having these issues with the ARC disabled. You should also try disabling all the HDMI CEC tech as well to see if that solves your problem.

I actually don't see anything in the settings about Anynet+, which I believe is Samsung's implementation about it?

Posted on Samsung's forums about it, we'll see what fucking happens.

Thank you for your suggestions, at any rate!
 

ACH1LL3US

Member
You should believe more what us owners are telling you rather than myths you've heard elsewhere.

You could have a 10 hour gaming session with a burning white HUD on the screen - as soon as you turn off the TV, it runs a 15 minute compensation cycle that removes all traces. The only way you will notice IR at all, is if you have a 10 hour gaming session, then turn over immediately and watch hockey or something, as you will see the HUD. Ditto if you watch a 2.35:1 movie, then immediately switch to a full screen affair - you will see feint lines on light colours. Again, turn the set off for 15 minutes and they disappear.

You will not burn-in these sets, unless you run them 24/7 with a static image on screen, and never turn them off.

But it's an issue none the less, you still have to think about it to a certain degree, there just isn't and never will be an holy grail TV.

A good FALD is easily an excellent alternative, I chose one over OLED, massive brightness gains and still amazing blacks, even though it's not at the pixel level.

Have to say though, that IPS prototype by my Panny boys sounds very interesting.

Awesome review just like always from hdtvtest.

Look at the massive difference of the ABL (automatic brightness limiter) compared to 2016! Left one looks more like my VT60 plasma, right one looks like the brightness you have on a (average) LCD. I saw the C7 next to the B6 in person, and even in the store i could see the difference in light output with a white screen.
This is a huge improvement for a self-emitting TV (OLED).

And 2017 LG OLED's have just 21ms in the ISF modes with HDMI input label on "PC". Fantastic!

downloadfilesxz7n.png


"Don't let anyone tell you that the improvements are minor" - Vincent Teoh

This is what I have been saying since I got the C7! No ABL, ISF 4:4:4 with games at 21ms lag, these are just not minor improvements over my B6!! Vincent is right and glad he made it VERY clear you can game on this set in ISF mode and still get 21ms of lag, there are some gamers that prefer an accurate image like myself with low lag :p

Great job LG! Now how about eradicating these vertical bands that rear their head every so often ??
 

ACH1LL3US

Member
That's misleading though. That is a static picture of web browser showing it doesn't dim like 2016 models...which you can mostly eliminate or turn off in secret menu.

When watching normal content like tv or movie, you won't see the TV engage aggressively like that on a static PC image.


Your talking about ABSL, which all oled's have when a static image being on the screen for more then 2 mins auto dims. This can be disabled in the service menu.

What Vincent is showing in the image you quoted is actual ABL which is not what your talking about. ABL on the 2017 is off if you keep it under 150nits for sdr. It is indeed a huge difference that image illustrates perfectly.

Sony's oled has agressive ABL like the 2016 lg's, I saw it in person on one last week at Best Buy.
 
I actually don't see anything in the settings about Anynet+, which I believe is Samsung's implementation about it?

Posted on Samsung's forums about it, we'll see what fucking happens.

Thank you for your suggestions, at any rate!

Looked through the User Manual for your model. Try going:

Home>Settings>System>Expert Settings>Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) and turn it off. Switch off your tv (just in case), and try if the ARC port works as a normal HDMI port.

If it doesn't work, then I suppose it is a hardware problem somewhere?

Source
>>http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/201612/20161209095658187/ENG_US-JZATSCK-1.2.2.pdf <= Note this lagged my browser a little bit before it completely downloaded.
>> http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/2016-uhd-tv-ku6270-series
 

wege12

Member
What settings are hidden in the service menu and do they improve the picture? Is it worth purchasing a service remote for my B6?
 

Lucentto

Banned
Anyone ever purchased through ielectrica on ebay? They've got the B6P for $1549 right now, seems like an alright deal but I'm not familiar with the seller.

Fuck. My resistance is waning. Even though I said I don't want to risk buying something this expensive through Ebay...

I did do some research on ielectrica however. I haven't seen anyone say anything bad about them, all good reviews.
 

Kyoufu

Member
What's the difference between the B7 and C7? Regional naming differences? I had heard this year's C7 was going to be equivalent to last year's B7.

Different stands from what I can tell. The C7's stand looks like the B6's, but picture quality between all the LG OLEDs this year are identical.

The B7 is costco exclusive in some regions too, but that's it. All of the OLEDs are flat and none of them support 3D this year.
 

Korezo

Member
Different stands from what I can tell. The C7's stand looks like the B6's, but picture quality between all the LG OLEDs this year are identical.

The B7 is costco exclusive in some regions too, but that's it. All of the OLEDs are flat and none of them support 3D this year.

If picture is Identicle why 1k or more in price difference? Is performance also the same between them? Which one has the lowest ms?
 

Kyoufu

Member
If picture is Identicle why 1k in price difference? Is performance also the same between them? Which one has the lowest ms?

They're all the exact same in performance because they all use the same SoC. The price difference is down to design. Like the ones with the "premium" integrated soundbars and picture-on-glass designs.

The B6 differed in performance with the other OLEDs last year because it used a different SoC.
 
Different stands from what I can tell. The C7's stand looks like the B6's, but picture quality between all the LG OLEDs this year are identical.

The B7 is costco exclusive in some regions too, but that's it. All of the OLEDs are flat and none of them support 3D this year.

Should I expect cheaper B7, or are they basically the same price?

C7s have started hitting stores here, but no B7s.
 

holygeesus

Banned
What settings are hidden in the service menu and do they improve the picture? Is it worth purchasing a service remote for my B6?

I bought one to disable the auto-dimming feature that kicks in when a static image is on screen for a set time, as I found it was kicking in sometimes, during dark movies, when it shouldn't. I just bought one of those cheap all in one remotes from Argos. Worked great.
 
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