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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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mrkgoo

Member
Holy . . . That's wild. I had no idea that could be the case. Guess I need to read up on the physics and construction of lenses.

Well, the way I understand it, it's kind of easy to think about. YOu remember those ray tracing diagrams you drew in physics, with lines coming from an object, bending through a lens and forming an image.... those were very simplified.

Just think of it that rays from any single point of an object will bounce off in all directions and pass through every area on the lens (like a ray will bounce off the top of an object, hit the TOP of the lens, and focus onto the image plane, just as a ray from the same point will bounce off and hit the BOTTOM of the lens, and RIGHT and CENTRE, and everywhere in between, all converging to a single point on the image plane. That is all points of an object will have light travelling though all points in the lens.

Now that's where apertures come in and why a WIDE aperture actually causes fuzziness (or out of focus blur) - the lines from a single point DON'T converge on the image plane, but rather in front of or behind it....thus at the image plane, it's just a circle (because the aperture is round), known as a circle of confusion. Wide apertures capture the light from other objects that don't converge. By stopping down or narrowing the aperture, you cut away the light that doesn't converge (i.e. the light that passes through the periphery edge of the lens), leaving only light that is more converged, thus, more 'in focus'.

Well, to my basic understanding anyway.
 

shantyman

WHO DEY!?
Settled on just getting a new X100, was going to be making too many concessions to traveling light and simply and discreetly and complicating things too much if I went with an ILC like the X-Pro1 for a backpacking trip like this. With a new one I'll have peace of mind about the sticky aperture blade crap not ever happening, and I'll have an actual silent shutter instead of whatever the hell's going on with my current one, so whatever.

I actually just updated to the new firmware, 1.30, on my current X100, and it is such a huge difference in focus speed and accuracy compared to when I bought it. It actually locks on very well in low light now and doesn't feel sluggish anymore. It's by no means an OM-D in terms of speed, but past the point of feeling like a drawback.

You took my advice! Excellent.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Congrats again Evilore?

IDK if I could live with the fixed lens but it is a real nice camera from the time I have spent messing with my bros.

I keep thinking of getting an x10 for a travel/light/mess around camera but can't justify the cost of it when there are still lenses and lights and diffusers and tripods and mics and booms and stuff to get for my DSLR.

:)
 
What's the better lens for macro work for my 60D. The 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2.8. My dad has a lot of coins he wants to photograph and I need detailed work. Already have a 430exii Speedlight for flash.

I do mostly outdoor photography with the occasional indoor stuff. So that's what it would be used for otherwise.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
What's the better lens for macro work for my 60D. The 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2.8. My dad has a lot of coins he wants to photograph and I need detailed work. Already have a 430exii Speedlight for flash.

I do mostly outdoor photography with the occasional indoor stuff. So that's what it would be used for otherwise.

the one that is a macro lens?

the 100mm is 1:1, a true macro. Might be tight for coins, as you will probably want to shoot them straight down. I would actually get the 60mm macro for crop sensors. But the 100mm will be better for live stuff like bugs (more working distance)...
 
the one that is a macro lens?

the 100mm is 1:1, a true macro. Might be tight for coins, as you will probably want to shoot them straight down.

What I thought. Had the chance to pick one up for 365 on eBay. Would it be good for outdoor work?

My current kit is

60D
50mm f/1.8
70-200mm f/4L (non-IS)

Saving money to pick up a EF-S 17-55. (Just bought a MBA, gotta save for 1-2 months)
 

Flo_Evans

Member
What I thought. Had the chance to pick one up for 365 on eBay. Would it be good for outdoor work?

My current kit is

60D
50mm f/1.8
70-200mm f/4L (non-IS)

Saving money to pick up a EF-S 17-55. (Just bought a MBA, gotta save for 1-2 months)

Yeah the 100mm will be great for insects/flowers. I would say 60mm would be better for coins but you already have a 50 so get the 100.
 

cozo

Member
oh X100 why are you such a flake. had mine 3/4 weeks and now it suddenly won't turn on. haven't been out in rain, dropped it, or anything. have tried different batteries.

welp, back to the store with you. ~sigh~
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
oh X100 why are you such a flake. had mine 3/4 weeks and now it suddenly won't turn on. haven't been out in rain, dropped it, or anything. have tried different batteries.

welp, back to the store with you. ~sigh~

I'm sure you've been thorough, but you may want to triple check that the batteries are going in the right orientation! Wonky design lets them go in any way but only work one way.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Yeah think so too. Damn, should of bought that lens. Net one on ebay is only 10 dollars more. Is 375 a good price for a used copy?

The "L" or regular?

Seems good for either... L is $1000 new, standard one is $600. Looks like the L adds image stabilization, kind of nice but not really necessary for macro work with flash.
 
The "L" or regular?

Seems good for either... L is $1000 new, standard one is $600. Looks like the L adds image stabilization, kind of nice but not really necessary for macro work with flash.

Regular. Double the price for IS seems silly. I may trade in my 70-200mm F/4L for the f/2.8 version one of these days...
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Regular. Double the price for IS seems silly. I may trade in my 70-200mm F/4L for the f/2.8 version one of these days...

I think it focuses faster (not needed for macro) and has better optics (debatable... most prime macro lenses are razor sharp as is).

Probably less edge falloff on full frame and better weather sealing.
 
I think it focuses faster (not needed for macro) and has better optics (debatable... most prime macro lenses are razor sharp as is).

Probably less edge falloff on full frame and better weather sealing.

Reviews say optics are about on par. I don't ever plan to go full frame as photography is primarily a hobby. A full frame is way too much. Thus why one of the lenses on my list is the 17-55mm f/2.8. I'm told it's one of the best crop sensor lenses out there.
 

FStop7

Banned
IS is invaluable at longer focal lengths and in low light.

At 200mm it's nice to have but not a huge deal. But at 300, 400, 500, etc it becomes critical.

But in low light a good IS system adds like 4 stops worth of usability, which is pretty f'n awesome when you have an F2.8 lens and can shoot subjects in low light with no flash without having to crank the ISO up to the point where your photos look awful.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Reviews say optics are about on par. I don't ever plan to go full frame as photography is primarily a hobby. A full frame is way too much. Thus why one of the lenses on my list is the 17-55mm f/2.8. I'm told it's one of the best crop sensor lenses out there.

It is pretty good. Great walk around zoom for crop cameras.

I have one I use (mostly for video) with my 7D. IMHO a prime still wins for IQ and bokeh though.
 
It is pretty good. Great walk around zoom for crop cameras.

I have one I use (mostly for video) with my 7D. IMHO a prime still wins for IQ and bokeh though.

Oh agreed. I used my nifty 50 all the time. I took a big break from photography while I sorted out other things in my life. Now it's time to come back in.
 

mrkgoo

Member
I've had the 85mm f1.8, efs60mm macro and the 100mmf2.8IS L macro.

They're all great lenses. In particular, the 60 mm macro was perhaps one of the sharpest lenses I've ever had. Superb.

85 is pretty useless for macro. Macro simply means it focuses closer so you can get 1:1. 85 mm has like a 1m minimum focus?

100mm l actually left a bit to be desired. It wasn't as sharP as I would've liked. That said I find IS to be a worthwhile addition to any lens. It allows you typically 4 stops worth o hand holdability. This means you get to take photos that would be otherwise impossible. It turns outdoor only lenses into indoor lenses. It means you can lower your iso to reduce noise.

IS is great.
 

cbox

Member
I have the 17-55, it's friggin sharp on a nice sunny day and the IS is awesome. Some complain about the build quality but whatever, I care more about the shots it takes.

Anyone looking forward to the 40mm pancake? I'm curious to try it out, and it's 200 bucks!
 

mrkgoo

Member
I have the 17-55, it's friggin sharp on a nice sunny day and the IS is awesome. Some complain about the build quality but whatever, I care more about the shots it takes.

Anyone looking forward to the 40mm pancake? I'm curious to try it out, and it's 200 bucks!
I have the 17-55 AND the ef17-40, which I bought because I was getting annoyed at the build quality of te 17-55.

The 40mm is interesting, but fail to see a place in my lineup. What are the advantages of a pancake? Do they have better IQ?

My 17-55 has been back to canon for maintenamce no less than 6 times. Dust, zoom creep, af failure, is failure all multiple times. It's an amazingly versatile lens, with really great IQ but can be frustrating.

My 17-40 has been much more 'trusty'. I enjoy the lighter weight, the non-extending barrel and the weather sealing. Find they both have their uses. I know I'm a fringe case, but I use my 17-40 more.
 

FStop7

Banned
But in low light a good IS system adds like 4 stops worth of usability, which is pretty f'n awesome when you have an F2.8 lens and can shoot subjects in low light with no flash without having to crank the ISO up to the point where your photos look awful.

That said I find IS to be a worthwhile addition to any lens. It allows you typically 4 stops worth o hand holdability. This means you get to take photos that would be otherwise impossible. It turns outdoor only lenses into indoor lenses. It means you can lower your iso to reduce noise.

hello, alternate universe me
 
I have the 17-55 AND the ef17-40, which I bought because I was getting annoyed at the build quality of te 17-55.

The 40mm is interesting, but fail to see a place in my lineup. What are the advantages of a pancake? Do they have better IQ?

My 17-55 has been back to canon for maintenamce no less than 6 times. Dust, zoom creep, af failure, is failure all multiple times. It's an amazingly versatile lens, with really great IQ but can be frustrating.

My 17-40 has been much more 'trusty'. I enjoy the lighter weight, the non-extending barrel and the weather sealing. Find they both have their uses. I know I'm a fringe case, but I use my 17-40 more.

How do you find the IQ of the 17-40 versus the 17-55? Also don't you find it hard to use being a F/4l with no IS?
 

RuGalz

Member
Just a much smaller footprint. Seems like it needs a low profile body to really be useful though (even small than a rebel).

A small profile lens isn't just useful because it makes body lighter. I often can just put extra pancake lenses in my pocket so it's easier to carry extra lenses around without carry a camera bag. Primes and especially pancake primes are great for this reason.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
A small profile lens isn't just useful because it makes body lighter. I often can just put extra pancake lenses in my pocket so it's easier to carry extra lenses around without carry a camera bag. Primes and especially pancake primes are great for this reason.

Ahhh, that's true. And the 40mm focal length on FF is pretty useful.
 
Just a much smaller footprint. Seems like it needs a low profile body to really be useful though (even small than a rebel).

So inferior to the 17-55 basically in every other aspect? The question is how much inferior. I note it's cheaper. But are the things listed (build quality, size) really worth the loss in other areas. If the difference isn't much I will buy the 17-40 f/4L
 
OK, I need a point and shoot camera that takes better quality pictures than my phone. I'm sure that isn't too difficult to find, but any recommendations would be nice. I'm not looking to spend DSLR money right now (maybe at some point) but I do need something that takes clearer images than what I'm using now (HTC Incredible 2 :p ) Thanks for any recommendations.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
So inferior to the 17-55 basically in every other aspect? The question is how much inferior. I note it's cheaper. But are the things listed (build quality, size) really worth the loss in other areas. If the difference isn't much I will buy the 17-40 f/4L

It may be much better optically being a modern prime. But (if we're talking about the f/2.8 17-55) the only advantage it has is possibly better sharpness at equal apertures possibly evening out at f/8 and beyond. The IS on the zoom lens makes it the better lens for low light shooting if you're not capturing moving subjects.
 

mrkgoo

Member
hello, alternate universe me
Yeah man! *high5* didn't see your post until later, but truly people dismiss the usefulness of IS, especially on wide angle. That said the real question may be whether it's worth it for double the cost. For me, I'd probably say yes. J haven't tried systems where the is is in the body however.

How do you find the IQ of the 17-40 versus the 17-55? Also don't you find it hard to use being a F/4l with no IS?

I'd say they're comparable. At one point, I had convinced myself the 17-40 had better colour and the 17-56 had less distortion, but to be honest there probably wasn't as much in it as I originally thought. The 17-55 vignettes more, but of course, the 17-40 doesn't even go out to f/2.8. I have a strangedecentering in my 17-40 Whig causes out of focus parts on the left to be a bit scratchy as well, if there is high detail.

But most importantly, I got my 17-40 at a point where I kind of stopped caring about micro IQ, like sharpness at 100% and stuff. not to mention, shooting raw means many failings can be corrected for.

Yes, I do find the 17-40 can be hindering sometimes Nothing will beat the 17-55 in terms of versatility. It can do wide, indoors, and close portrait. The 17-40 only does wide and sort of indoors. That said the 1stop Loss for indoors wide is not as big a deal as you would think. I started doing some flash stuff recently so there's that too.


Just a much smaller footprint. Seems like it needs a low profile body to really be useful though (even small than a rebel).
yeah thats what I figured. Could be a fun lens though. Do you think it will be a second option go to lens or beginners like the 50 f/1.8? Or too limited at a higher cost?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
yeah thats what I figured. Could be a fun lens though. Do you think it will be a second option go to lens or beginners like the 50 f/1.8? Or too limited at a higher cost?

I'm thinking the higher cost and the lack of pure speed will keep it from being as popular as the 50/1.8. Being a FF lens I think Canon has something in store for us this year thats going to pair well with it. But it feels like a very specific sort of lens that a knowledgeable photog would go for or someone traveling constantly.
 

mrkgoo

Member
So inferior to the 17-55 basically in every other aspect? The question is how much inferior. I note it's cheaper. But are the things listed (build quality, size) really worth the loss in other areas. If the difference isn't much I will buy the 17-40 f/4L
If you noticed, Blue was referring to a 40mm prime pancake lens.

I would probably say that, no, the loss of features are NOT worth the better build quality and smaller/lighter size. You lose a LOT of versatility. I'd generally recommend the 17-55 over the 17-40, particularly dice you probably won't get as bad a one as I did.

That said, as always, it depends on your needs. I did a lot of outdoor stuff with my wide angle, places that probably gave a beating to my 17-55.

Also, don't quickly dismiss a full-frame future. You might think it out of reach, but you never know with canon.

Recently a friend of my wife, who was a beginner, and never thought an expensive camera would be an option(when asking about lenses I simply asked if she was ever going to buy te expensive dslrs), went and got a 5dmkiii. I thought it was overkill to learn on, but she figured may as well get te best now, a notion I disagree with seein as she could've gotten a cheaper body and a slew of lenses and eventually picked up the body for cheaper when she was ready.
 

mrkgoo

Member
I'm thinking the higher cost and the lack of pure speed will keep it from being as popular as the 50/1.8. Being a FF lens I think Canon has something in store for us this year thats going to pair well with it. But it feels like a very specific sort of lens that a knowledgeable photog would go for or someone traveling constantly.

Oh god, mirrorless compact EF. Dreaming.

I hear it has benefits as a videographical lens?
 

shantyman

WHO DEY!?
Regarding the X100: I know the camera is a pain in the neck but I love it. Absolutely love it. It's hard to describe, but the output is just spectacular.

Anyone on the fence who is thinking about it, buy one if you can afford it.

I don't know what I am doing but I just love the output:

7057389631_66f04bba44_c.jpg
 
If you noticed, Blue was referring to a 40mm prime pancake lens.

I would probably say that, no, the loss of features are NOT worth the better build quality and smaller/lighter size. You lose a LOT of versatility. I'd generally recommend the 17-55 over the 17-40, particularly dice you probably won't get as bad a one as I did.

That said, as always, it depends on your needs. I did a lot of outdoor stuff with my wide angle, places that probably gave a beating to my 17-55.

Also, don't quickly dismiss a full-frame future. You might think it out of reach, but you never know with canon.

Recently a friend of my wife, who was a beginner, and never thought an expensive camera would be an option(when asking about lenses I simply asked if she was ever going to buy te expensive dslrs), went and got a 5dmkiii. I thought it was overkill to learn on, but she figured may as well get te best now, a notion I disagree with seein as she could've gotten a cheaper body and a slew of lenses and eventually picked up the body for cheaper when she was ready.

See I think it's dumb to start expensive on the body too. Camera bodies depreciate like a mofo. Lenses typically go up in value, maybe stay ~ even at best these days. Build your lens repetoire and grow into the cameras.

Agh, now you guys have me thinking about full frame again. I just got my 60D last year. I have barely used it up until me restarting now. :/
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Oh god, mirrorless compact EF. Dreaming.

I hear it has benefits as a videographical lens?

Not sure about its videographical uses but if I'm correct in assuming canon does release a FF compact EF body then this 40/2.8 Pancake would be quite a marriage.

Part of the problem with mirrorless and digital is what comes from releasing a mirrorless body. Most companies take advantage of the lack of mirror by shortening the sensor to lens distance. This has a benefit in body size (lack of prism hump, decreased width) but when having a lens too close to the sensor you run into issues with light hitting the corner of the sensor at odd and overly steep angles. This results in blurring and color shifting (magenta on one side and blue on the other I believe).

I think Canon will hit this market hard if they actually do a mirrorless FF body with the EF mount retained. The mount will be almost tubelike to retain the needed flange distance but everything else can be compacted ala the NEX series. They get to be first to market touting a Mirrorless FF without any of the digital issues seen with something like the M9.

Maybe later on they could release a true new mount that takes advantage of a extremely shortened flange distance when the technology catches up. Currently Fuji has prototyped an 'Organic' sensor that is supposed to mitigate a lot of the digital issues with weak and steep angled light rays. But this is like 2 to 3 years off.

Another option is to do what Sony did and just create the new mount now but release an expensive adapter that gives full integration with their EF and EF-S lenses. The problem I find here is actually developing new lenses for the mount. I'm not sure if Canon is ready for this.

All this aside I feel Canon is going to use the G1X sensor for their mirrorless foray, unfortunately.
 

RuGalz

Member
I think Canon will hit this market hard if they actually do a mirrorless FF body with the EF mount retained. The mount will be almost tubelike to retain the needed flange distance but everything else can be compacted ala the NEX series. They get to be first to market touting a Mirrorless FF without any of the digital issues seen with something like the M9.

I think one of the problems with retaining the current mount would be that regular lenses simply works better with PDAF system. AF speed will be sacrificed unless they can some how make up for it in software processing. So they have to manage user expectations.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Not sure about its videographical uses but if I'm correct in assuming canon does release a FF compact EF body then this 40/2.8 Pancake would be quite a marriage.

Part of the problem with mirrorless and digital is what comes from releasing a mirrorless body. Most companies take advantage of the lack of mirror by shortening the sensor to lens distance. This has a benefit in body size (lack of prism hump, decreased width) but when having a lens too close to the sensor you run into issues with light hitting the corner of the sensor at odd and overly steep angles. This results in blurring and color shifting (magenta on one side and blue on the other I believe).

I think Canon will hit this market hard if they actually do a mirrorless FF body with the EF mount retained. The mount will be almost tubelike to retain the needed flange distance but everything else can be compacted ala the NEX series. They get to be first to market touting a Mirrorless FF without any of the digital issues seen with something like the M9.

Maybe later on they could release a true new mount that takes advantage of a extremely shortened flange distance when the technology catches up. Currently Fuji has prototyped an 'Organic' sensor that is supposed to mitigate a lot of the digital issues with weak and steep angled light rays. But this is like 2 to 3 years off.

Another option is to do what Sony did and just create the new mount now but release an expensive adapter that gives full integration with their EF and EF-S lenses. The problem I find here is actually developing new lenses for the mount. I'm not sure if Canon is ready for this.

All this aside I feel Canon is going to use the G1X sensor for their mirrorless foray, unfortunately.

Yeah, following Canon
Rumours, they see a possibility for G1X sensor mirror less. But what about an adaptor for ef and EFS?

That said, mounting some of those bad boys on a mirrorless...well, you may as well just bring your dSLR!
 

sturmdogg

Member
Hey guys, quick question. I have a D3100 with a Tamron AF 17-50 2.8, and for the life of me I cannot take a photo where all the elements in the photo are sharp / in focus. It's either the background or the foreground is in focus. What am I doing wrong?
 

mrkgoo

Member
Hey guys, quick question. I have a D3100 with a Tamron AF 17-50 2.8, and for the life of me I cannot take a photo where all the elements in the photo are sharp / in focus. It's either the background or the foreground is in focus. What am I doing wrong?

Settings of camera during exposure? What modes are you using? Focus points used?

Just some basics:

An object will always be selected to be "in focus" (this will depend on whether you're auto/manual, and which focus points are being used).

The object that is in focus will be in the middle of the "Depth of Field" - a plane of area (parallel to the camera sensor) of which objects within it are considered acceptably sharp, and objects in front of and behind it are out of focus or blurred.

The thickness of the DOF is determined by a number of things, but the one that you'll probably be concerned of initially will be the Aperture setting. The Aperture is given an "f-value", for example F/2.8. Wide apertures (small F-values, such as F/2.8) will give you a narrow DOF, and thus blurry objects behind and in front of your object in focus. Narrow apertures (large F-values, such as F/11 or F/16) will give you a much 'thicker' DOF, thus putting more things in focus.

First thing to try to get more objects in focus is switch your camera to Av mode (otherwise known as Aperture priority mode), and setting a narrow aperture (again, large F-value).
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Hey guys, quick question. I have a D3100 with a Tamron AF 17-50 2.8, and for the life of me I cannot take a photo where all the elements in the photo are sharp / in focus. It's either the background or the foreground is in focus. What am I doing wrong?

Stop the lens down, and shoot on the wide end (17mm) for more depth of field.

If you are doing landscapes look up hyperfocal distances for your lens.

I don't think the 3100 has a depth of field preview button? Use live view to confirm DoF.
 

DietRob

i've been begging for over 5 years.
This post might not fit here but I figure a lot of you guys probably use Lightroom 4 and I've got a quick question.

How can I get Lightroom to not eject my card after importing, or at least remove the images from the card after import? It's a real pain to have to reinsert my card after importing just to go into windows explorer to delete the images off of it.

Thanks for the help.
 
Settled on just getting a new X100, was going to be making too many concessions to traveling light and simply and discreetly and complicating things too much if I went with an ILC like the X-Pro1 for a backpacking trip like this. With a new one I'll have peace of mind about the sticky aperture blade crap not ever happening, and I'll have an actual silent shutter instead of whatever the hell's going on with my current one, so whatever.

I actually just updated to the new firmware, 1.30, on my current X100, and it is such a huge difference in focus speed and accuracy compared to when I bought it. It actually locks on very well in low light now and doesn't feel sluggish anymore. It's by no means an OM-D in terms of speed, but past the point of feeling like a drawback.

Just make sure that you take extra batteries, I went to Niagara Falls on the weekend and my x100 died mid trip :(.

I wasnt carrying any bags on me, since it was so damn hot, all i had in my short pockets was my iPhone, drivers license, some cash and a credit card. So even pocketing an extra battery would have been too much too carry, I was so mad when the battery completely died mid trip :(, still, amazing image quality, I think im going to mod the leather case to have a battery pocket.
 

RuGalz

Member
Incoming plug for people looking for mid-range DSLR and are willing to look beyond the top dogs :p

100% pentaprism view finder, weather sealed, dual dials, focus peaking in live view, TAv mode, optionally can use AA batteries with adapter, all for under 1k, yes please.

Engadget Pentax K-30 Hands On
pentaxdsc04847.jpg
 

giga

Member
This post might not fit here but I figure a lot of you guys probably use Lightroom 4 and I've got a quick question.

How can I get Lightroom to not eject my card after importing, or at least remove the images from the card after import? It's a real pain to have to reinsert my card after importing just to go into windows explorer to delete the images off of it.

Thanks for the help.
It's in the import dialog.
 
This post might not fit here but I figure a lot of you guys probably use Lightroom 4 and I've got a quick question.

How can I get Lightroom to not eject my card after importing, or at least remove the images from the card after import? It's a real pain to have to reinsert my card after importing just to go into windows explorer to delete the images off of it.

Thanks for the help.

Isn't there a toggle to delete the photos on the card right after import?
 
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