• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

Status
Not open for further replies.
So no point and shoot recommendations? I've actually learned a bit about the higher end stuff reading the last few pages though, which will help when I eventually have enough money to put towards something really nice.
 

RuGalz

Member
So no point and shoot recommendations? I've actually learned a bit about the higher end stuff reading the last few pages though, which will help when I eventually have enough money to put towards something really nice.

You are probably better of looking through places like dpreview's camera database and figure out what you need for regular p&s. Most of the people here seem to be more knowledgeable and interested with m43, dslr and high end p&s.
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
So no point and shoot recommendations? I've actually learned a bit about the higher end stuff reading the last few pages though, which will help when I eventually have enough money to put towards something really nice.

Almost doesn't matter, for the typical P&S littering the store shelves. They use tiny sensors and performance is pretty similar and new models come out constantly, with features focusing on everything EXCEPT the things that matter for image quality (optics and sensor).

I got a Canon SX260HS for my aunt. It's tiny and versatile and has obscene zoom. If you want tiny and more manual controls and somewhat larger sensor, the Canon S100 is a good bet in a similar form factor; it's often seen as a companion pocket camera for serious photographers.

For a bigger, badder, more expensive, no longer jean pocket fixed lens cameras, you can start to look at the Fuji X10, the Canon G1X, etc. Sony has the upcoming RX100 as well which is small and looking really potent.

If you want to get the best bang for your buck, go used. Canon S95, Panasonic LX5, etc. $250 or so. I used the S95 vacationing and took some great photos with it, stayed in my pocket the entire time.
 
hovering, but is this a good deal? I need a way to better go through my pics and organize them. Photoshop is too labor intensive and Preview on a Mac is shit.

Other option is Aperture ($80 on the Mac App Store). If you have time to jump on this deal you may wish to do a quick demo of each. Lightroom is typically faster on the same hardware but others prefer Aperture's UI (I prefer Aperture, but wouldn't hesitate using Lightroom if I had to choose between it and Photoshop-Bridge-Finder).
 
Other option is Aperture ($80 on the Mac App Store). If you have time to jump on this deal you may wish to do a quick demo of each. Lightroom is typically faster on the same hardware but others prefer Aperture's UI (I prefer Aperture, but wouldn't hesitate using Lightroom if I had to choose between it and Photoshop-Bridge-Finder).

Thanks. I demoed Lightroom after I saw this deal and liked what I saw so made the leap. I'll check out Aperture as well for the hell of it and maybe see if I like it better. I will say having a solid program to go through stills at a fast rate is pretty fucking nice and now I'm not looking at these 2000 shots I have and dreading picking the best.
 

Dreaver

Member
Yesterday I received the Canon 50mm F/1.8 II for my graduation yesterday.
Anyways I saw the Canon ES-62 Lens Hood which seems like a nice choice. I also saw there was an adapter ring for this lens hood. I was wondering, do I need this adapter ring so I can just attach the hood to the lens? (I don't want to "screw" the hood to the lens itself every time)

Cheers.
 
Almost doesn't matter, for the typical P&S littering the store shelves. They use tiny sensors and performance is pretty similar and new models come out constantly, with features focusing on everything EXCEPT the things that matter for image quality (optics and sensor).

I got a Canon SX260HS for my aunt. It's tiny and versatile and has obscene zoom. If you want tiny and more manual controls and somewhat larger sensor, the Canon S100 is a good bet in a similar form factor; it's often seen as a companion pocket camera for serious photographers.

For a bigger, badder, more expensive, no longer jean pocket fixed lens cameras, you can start to look at the Fuji X10, the Canon G1X, etc. Sony has the upcoming RX100 as well which is small and looking really potent.

If you want to get the best bang for your buck, go used. Canon S95, Panasonic LX5, etc. $250 or so. I used the S95 vacationing and took some great photos with it, stayed in my pocket the entire time.

Thanks a bunch! The Canon S95 seems to take some good pictures.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Some of my own opinions:

Thanks. I demoed Lightroom after I saw this deal and liked what I saw so made the leap. I'll check out Aperture as well for the hell of it and maybe see if I like it better. I will say having a solid program to go through stills at a fast rate is pretty fucking nice and now I'm not looking at these 2000 shots I have and dreading picking the best.

Aperture is awesome. In the very latest update, they've improved performance a LOT. Feels like I have a new machine. And I'm running a non-unibody MacBookPro, pretty much the oldest Mac that will run Lion.

Here's a very user-based test of just importing and checking images that Joseph Linaschke did comparing LightRoom, Aperture and Photo Mechanic (it's pretty basic, but is interesting nevertheless):
http://www.apertureexpert.com/tips/...-aperture-vs-lightroom-vs-photo-mechanic.html

I think people love LightRoom for the more powerful editing tools, but often give an edge to Aperture for organisational.

That said, it's probably best to go with the most popular, which is Lightroom.

Yesterday I received the Canon 50mm F/1.8 II for my graduation yesterday.
Anyways I saw the Canon ES-62 Lens Hood which seems like a nice choice. I also saw there was an adapter ring for this lens hood. I was wondering, do I need this adapter ring so I can just attach the hood to the lens? (I don't want to "screw" the hood to the lens itself every time)

Cheers.

For such a cheap lens, I'd typically forgo the lens hood. I'm not sure how much flare it's going to reduce aswell, since the hoods are pretty much designed for full-frame cameras.

Thanks a bunch! The Canon S95 seems to take some good pictures.

The Canon S95/100 would probably be the only P&S camera I'd consider outside of specialty ones, like waterproof ones.

My opinion of P&S is generally, they're all the same. Great for snaps, nothing wrong with them, but they're more or less on par. IQ comparison between them feels like comparing the bottom two iso settings on an SLR - not that they're equivalent, just feels the exercise is a little pointless.

So when choosing a P&S, just go for whatever fits your aesthetic, wallet, features, and controls.
 

giga

Member
Some of my own opinions:



Aperture is awesome. In the very latest update, they've improved performance a LOT. Feels like I have a new machine. And I'm running a non-unibody MacBookPro, pretty much the oldest Mac that will run Lion.

Here's a very user-based test of just importing and checking images that Joseph Linaschke did comparing LightRoom, Aperture and Photo Mechanic (it's pretty basic, but is interesting nevertheless):
http://www.apertureexpert.com/tips/...-aperture-vs-lightroom-vs-photo-mechanic.html

I think people love LightRoom for the more powerful editing tools, but often give an edge to Aperture for organisational.

That said, it's probably best to go with the most popular, which is Lightroom.



For such a cheap lens, I'd typically forgo the lens hood. I'm not sure how much flare it's going to reduce aswell, since the hoods are pretty much designed for full-frame cameras.



The Canon S95/100 would probably be the only P&S camera I'd consider outside of specialty ones, like waterproof ones.

My opinion of P&S is generally, they're all the same. Great for snaps, nothing wrong with them, but they're more or less on par. IQ comparison between them feels like comparing the bottom two iso settings on an SLR - not that they're equivalent, just feels the exercise is a little pointless.

So when choosing a P&S, just go for whatever fits your aesthetic, wallet, features, and controls.
I used to use Aperture because I preferred its organization structure greatly compared to Lightroom. But Aperture was just really resource heavy on my system back then and had to make the switch despite me hating Lightroom's UI.

I might give Aperture a new shot but I definitely can't lose all my edits. I'm sure there's a proper way to convert edits. Know of any before I do a google search?

Edit: Looks like you pretty much have to export your edits as tiffs and reimport them as masters. Not sure if I want to go through that… http://photofocus.com/2010/11/11/converting-from-lightroom-to-aperture/
 
I have a T2i. Anyone know if you can program the buttons on this thing to do 'other stuff' than what they are set to do? What I'd like to do is set a button to do bracketed exposure, so that I don't have to go in and fiddle with the settings anytime I want to try to catch HDR.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
I have a T2i. Anyone know if you can program the buttons on this thing to do 'other stuff' than what they are set to do? What I'd like to do is set a button to do bracketed exposure, so that I don't have to go in and fiddle with the settings anytime I want to try to catch HDR.

Someone could give a definitive answer but I'm not sure the Rebel cameras even have a custom button and if they did Canon seems to think of bracketing as a feature to hide in menus before the 5DMKIII so I'd be surprised if the T2i could be made to quickly access this.
 

mrkgoo

Member
I have a T2i. Anyone know if you can program the buttons on this thing to do 'other stuff' than what they are set to do? What I'd like to do is set a button to do bracketed exposure, so that I don't have to go in and fiddle with the settings anytime I want to try to catch HDR.

I'm not sure about the T2i, but there has been a custom menu that is configurable for your favourite functions on most modern Canon SLRS. That might be useful.
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
I have a T2i. Anyone know if you can program the buttons on this thing to do 'other stuff' than what they are set to do? What I'd like to do is set a button to do bracketed exposure, so that I don't have to go in and fiddle with the settings anytime I want to try to catch HDR.

No you can't. There's only one (partially) customisable button, and that is the AF/AE lock.

You're stuck with the menu - though you can make it a bit easier by customising the menu (see p198 of the manual).
 

Spasm

Member
If you're shooting AV or TV, the Q button is exposure compensation by default. But while EC is highlighted, you can hold AV and roll the dial for bracketing.

If you're shooting M, the Q button is only bracketing.
 

mclaren777

Member
Would anybody like to talk me out of buying one of these?

iWAMdpgSEnj3d.jpg
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
If you're shooting AV or TV, the Q button is exposure compensation by default. But while EC is highlighted, you can hold AV and roll the dial for bracketing.

If you're shooting M, the Q button is only bracketing.

Just tried this on my friends T2i and wow, that's pretty awesome. Props to Canon then.
 
Yesterday I received the Canon 50mm F/1.8 II for my graduation yesterday.
Anyways I saw the Canon ES-62 Lens Hood which seems like a nice choice. I also saw there was an adapter ring for this lens hood. I was wondering, do I need this adapter ring so I can just attach the hood to the lens? (I don't want to "screw" the hood to the lens itself every time)

Cheers.

Why do you want a lens hood for it?
 

MRORANGE

Member
gah saw a x100 for £350 down Tottenham O_O why am I so broke ;-; although at that price it must be in pretty bad nick (looked fine visually).





Would anybody like to talk me out of buying one of these?

[IMhttp://i.minus.com/iWAMdpgSEnj3d.jpg[/IMG]

get it, I have the Nikon version I think it's better than any 50mm f1.8 lenses
 
I'm looking into buying my first dSLR. Any thoughts on what is currently the best brand/model to jump into a dSLR? I realize that this is a vague question, but I don't know much about the world of dSLR's.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Why wouldn't you want it? serious question

My reply from above:

For such a cheap lens, I'd typically forgo the lens hood. I'm not sure how much flare it's going to reduce aswell, since the hoods are pretty much designed for full-frame cameras.

Basically, hood good for flare and protection. The 50 is so cheap, so it's not a big deal IMO. And flare, like I said, probably doesn't improve much.

It,s all a benefit assessment. I feel the benefits don't outweigh the cost and inconvenience for the 50.
 
My reply from above:

For such a cheap lens, I'd typically forgo the lens hood. I'm not sure how much flare it's going to reduce aswell, since the hoods are pretty much designed for full-frame cameras.

Basically, hood good for flare and protection. The 50 is so cheap, so it's not a big deal IMO. And flare, like I said, probably doesn't improve much.

It,s all a benefit assessment. I feel the benefits don't outweigh the cost and inconvenience for the 50.

This is due to the fact the flaring occurs on the edge of the image, and since he uses a crop sensor that portion of the sensor never makes it to the picture anyways?
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
I'm looking into buying my first dSLR. Any thoughts on what is currently the best brand/model to jump into a dSLR? I realize that this is a vague question, but I don't know much about the world of dSLR's.

Probably the wrong question to ask to start with. There's a whole load of good stuff out there and no clear "best" - it depends a lot on what you feel comfortable with, and very importantly how much you want to spend and what you want to do with it.

All other things being equal (which they quite often are give or take the odd few dollars/pixels/features), consider the following rules-of-thumb:

- get the brand your friends/family have so you can swap/borrow lenses

- work out how much you want to spend over the first couple of years, and aim to spend about a third of that on the actual camera body (the rest will go in lenses/lights and other bits and pieces, faster than you know)

- unless you're doing massive prints or tiny crops, probably anything over 12mp is good enough to start with. Don't get sucked in megapixel wars, they're not for your benefit!

- Fast continuous shooting only matters if you are shooting things that move fast

All that, and a few hours spent on http://www.dpreview.com/ should narrow your choice down to 4-5 possibles.

Then go to a camera store and try them out, talk to friends and so on. Or come back here of course, but it'll be easier to help you once the question is narrowed down a bit.
 
Probably the wrong question to ask to start with. There's a whole load of good stuff out there and no clear "best" - it depends a lot on what you feel comfortable with, and very importantly how much you want to spend and what you want to do with it.

All other things being equal (which they quite often are give or take the odd few dollars/pixels/features), consider the following rules-of-thumb:

- get the brand your friends/family have so you can swap/borrow lenses

- work out how much you want to spend over the first couple of years, and aim to spend about a third of that on the actual camera body (the rest will go in lenses/lights and other bits and pieces, faster than you know)

- unless you're doing massive prints or tiny crops, probably anything over 12mp is good enough to start with. Don't get sucked in megapixel wars, they're not for your benefit!

- Fast continuous shooting only matters if you are shooting things that move fast

All that, and a few hours spent on http://www.dpreview.com/ should narrow your choice down to 4-5 possibles.

Then go to a camera store and try them out, talk to friends and so on. Or come back here of course, but it'll be easier to help you once the question is narrowed down a bit.

Thanks for the info. Like I said, I knew what I was asking was vague, I was just looking for a point in the right direction, which you helped with. Once I start narrowing things down, I'll ask for more help if I need it.
 
Thanks for the info. Like I said, I knew what I was asking was vague, I was just looking for a point in the right direction, which you helped with. Once I start narrowing things down, I'll ask for more help if I need it.

There are a bevy of choices out there. I personally shoot canon (60D). If you're looking to start out, the Rebel T3i would be a goo choice. I think there's a good chance they will get discounted soon given the t4i was just announced.
 

fat pat

Member
I have lightroom 3.5. Aside from extra RAW support from various cameras, any major difference with Lightroom 4+?

It says "4" on the box instead of 3.

so far, i havent found many differences. the interface seems more or less the same, and i havent noticed anything new. That being said, im relatively new to lightroom.
 

giga

Member
I haven't experienced any more slowdown or bugs with 4 compared to 3. But the new features they advertise definitely aren't that big of a deal. Highlight and shadow recovery have always been there, photo books and GPS organization isn't a big deal for me when all I want to do is edit. Video support…lol.
 
I haven't experienced any more slowdown or bugs with 4 compared to 3. But the new features they advertise definitely aren't that big of a deal. Highlight and shadow recovery have always been there, photo books and GPS organization isn't a big deal for me when all I want to do is edit. Video support…lol.

Agreed. Nothing fancy so far. Hopefully they have some nice updates.
 

magicstop

Member
Ok, GAF . . . So I'm still debating what my first post-kit lens (18-135mm) should be for my 60D. I want a versatile prime lens, but I want it to excel at portraits also (maybe asking too much). Low light indoor photography is a must! My wedding is coming up, and I want a lens that will allow me buttery bokeh and crisp portraits, but that will be more flexible and wide than an 85mm portrait lens.
Oh, and I don't want to spend more than $200!

So, I'm down to three choices:

1.) Canon 40mm pancake 2.8 ($200): this intrigues me because it's wider than even a 50mm, but seems like it gets good bokeh, super sharp images, and is built well. I'm wondering if 40mm is a sweet spot that will allow me the portraits as well as the wide(ish) shots, or if it's really just an odd focal length that won't achieve either well. Also, the pancake form factor is sexy and would make this an EASY backup lens to have at all times.

2.) Takumar SMC 50mm 1.4 (~$140 - $200): this is an old lens that can still be found (m42) and at a great price. It is a super well made lens, from an age when Pentax was competing with Zeiss, and it's rumored they took a loss on each of these lenses. Manual focus only, of course, but said to have really smooth, dampened focusing, ultra sharp clarity, super fast low light performance, build quality that you can't get anymore, and the creamiest bokeh you could ask for. Sounds like a dream! Except that it IS manual focus only, and it's 50mm. That focal length certainly benefits the portrait shooting, but I'm concerned about it as a prime lens on a crop sensor 1.6x). Might be too tight. Also will be used, so it's a bit risky acquiring a good one.

3.) Tamron 20-40mm 2.7-3.5 ($185): this is another used lens, but is a modern lens that would auto focus. It's reportedly VERY sharp, and it's decently fast. The focal range seems probably the most versatile, as I could go really wide, or take in for 40mm portraits, but I suspect you loss an f-stop when you go in c,one, and that makes it less valuable as a portrait tool or indoor lens. Bokeh seems nice, but probably not up to par with the Takumar. Seems like maybe the smartest option for its flexibility, but I'm not sure that I would get the portrait shooting that I really want. Jack of all trades but master of none?

Thoughts?
 

RuGalz

Member
I have lightroom 3.5. Aside from extra RAW support from various cameras, any major difference with Lightroom 4+?

Native geotagging support is one and the BIG one is that they completely changed the raw processing algorithm to the images (you can still pick the old one if you choose to). I generally can get more out of an image than the previous processing when a picture is taken in very harsh condition.

Thanks for the info. Like I said, I knew what I was asking was vague, I was just looking for a point in the right direction, which you helped with. Once I start narrowing things down, I'll ask for more help if I need it.

I'm gonna sound like I'm getting paid by Pentax or something but I truly think their camera bodies are great value. Upcoming K30 is looking really nice if ergonomics, performance and photographic features are what you are after. Granted, it would have been nice if I were able to borrow lenses from my Canon friends but in reality, for me, it's too inconvenient.


Ok, GAF . . . So I'm still debating what my first post-kit lens (18-135mm) should be for my 60D. I want a versatile prime lens, but I want it to excel at portraits also (maybe asking too much). Low light indoor photography is a must! My wedding is coming up, and I want a lens that will allow me buttery bokeh and crisp portraits, but that will be more flexible and wide than an 85mm portrait lens.
Oh, and I don't want to spend more than $200!

Thoughts?

I had the SMC 50mm f1.4 for a bit then ended up keeping just the f1.7 version because money was a bit tight at that time and the f1.7 was only $40 and image quality is still superb. Since you mentioned wedding, assuming you don't have a lot of time to take each picture, I think you may want to stick to an AF lens. Otherwise, it's a great, inexpensive lens to play with. Used copies generally don't have much mechanical problems if you know where to look because it's full metal construction, mostly the things to look for are whether the lens has fungus, dust and how smooth the aperture ring operates. I generally stick to photographers selling their gears at http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/ Since Canon cameras don't have IBIS, I'm not sure how much worse it is going to operate for you IRL.

I personally think the Tamron, which may offer better image quality than your kit lens, the speed isn't that big of a difference to be worth carrying around along with your kit. If I were you I probably would go with the 40mm, because it's easy to carry with you when you want better image than your kit and being a Pentaxians, we love primes :p
 

fart

Savant
folks: long time. who still posts here? looking for drinky, hito and whiteman. cyan you're cool too.

and hi everyone else.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
folks: long time. who still posts here? looking for drinky, hito and whiteman. cyan you're cool too.

and hi everyone else.

:bow

Drinky mainly posts on one of the off shoot boards now. I think Whiteman is partly retired aside from the rare post that comes up.
 

fart

Savant
oh, hi, i see. i'll throw out some feelers. should in and out to answer what i can about the nikon system as well. do we still use that flickr group or is there some other thing that's the new hotness?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
do we still use that flickr group or is there some other thing that's the new hotness?

Its pretty much dead. Most of the communication happens in the two threads here (plus the assignment threads but I haven't been in one of those for a while unfortunately). Flickr still seems to be the main host of choice though with some going over to 500px although 500px seems to only really be good in its own vacuum.
 

mrkgoo

Member
oh, hi, i see. i'll throw out some feelers. should in and out to answer what i can about the nikon system as well. do we still use that flickr group or is there some other thing that's the new hotness?

Y hello thar.

I still use the Flickr group, but it feels like presenting to an empty room :(

Ah well, story of my life.
 
Thanks a bunch! The Canon S95 seems to take some good pictures.

It does but if you have larger hands I'd definitely go try one in a shop. If it's anything like the S100 then you might struggle. If so I'd definitely recommend the Olympus XZ-1 or Panasonic equivalent. Though I would recommend those anyway.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
i asked this in a separate thread last week and will have to dig that out, but so goes here -

what's a good sub $1k body for video shooting? nothing fancy - my organization will occasionally record 3-10 minute long pieces of our staff or elected officials talking about various things. we have a prosumer 1080p camcorder that works well enough on the tripod, but i want to throw a cheapo DSLR as a 2nd camera into the mix with a wide open lens to give us (well, me) more options editing in post.

sound isn't so much an issue since we'll continue to route it into the main camera, but having the flexibility of attaching external recording devices could be a plus.

any good ideas? and thank you all. i <3 you.
 

RuGalz

Member
i asked this in a separate thread last week and will have to dig that out, but so goes here -

what's a good sub $1k body for video shooting? nothing fancy - my organization will occasionally record 3-10 minute long pieces of our staff or elected officials talking about various things. we have a prosumer 1080p camcorder that works well enough on the tripod, but i want to throw a cheapo DSLR as a 2nd camera into the mix with a wide open lens to give us (well, me) more options editing in post.

sound isn't so much an issue since we'll continue to route it into the main camera, but having the flexibility of attaching external recording devices could be a plus.

any good ideas? and thank you all. i <3 you.

Probably Canon T3i and Sony Alpha57 or Nex5n for sub 1k choices depending on what you need in terms of resolution and fps. Look at their higher end models if you need more features. These two tend to focus more on video features.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom