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[DBT85]

How does it feel in the hand? I've heard it is a bit thicker than the RX100. Think it would be too bulky in a jacket's breast pocket?

Its reassuringly solid, all metal casing. It's got a heft to it though as a result. I think it might be too thick of a breast pocket, certainly if the jacket were done up. Undone it feels ok, but it would depend on your jacket I suppose.

The flip screen is also very nice and the metal mechanism to allow it has almost no flex in it despite being so thin.

Viewfinder is nice and sharp and bright, also has a little horizon spirit leave on the display which I'm assuming is an option somewhere. Little fiddly to pull out

Turning the rear dial or the ring around the lens to adjust A, S or is easy.

One nice thing is when you manual focus it zooms right in on the scene so you can get perfect focus, if you wanted to MF.

Got a 32GB Lexar 400x card in and it says I can get 989+ images on there RAW+Jpeg.

the ARW RAW files are all about 20MB and the JPGs about 5MB.

One annoyance I've noticed is that when you put the EVF away it shuts the camera down. Not had a chance to look through the menus yet though.

Lightroom 5.5 also reads the RAW files fine.

Sorry I've not got any pics. Arrived yesterday and I was busy playing KSP lol

EDIT: just found out how to use the NFC to transfer images and how to use the phone to take them. Very cool. I'll more likely set it up as a hotspot to transfer though probably.

 

[Zeknurn]

Is it worth pursuing an used 2010 Sony Nex 5 with 16mm f/2,8, 18-55mm f/3,5-5,6 and an e-mount to a-mount adaptor if I can get everything for what the second lens costs new? Or is it dumb to get a model that old.

 

[Donos]

Is it worth pursuing an used 2010 Sony Nex 5 with 16mm f/2,8, 18-55mm f/3,5-5,6 and an e-mount to a-mount adaptor if I can get everything for what the second lens costs new? Or is it dumb to get a model that old.

5N / 5R / 5T are a big upgrade step over the 5 in my opinion. 5R and 5T more than the 5N but still.

But that adapter alone is worth alot (LA-EA1?). If you get the whole package for cheap, you can still ditch the 5 body and keep the lenses and adapter and get one of the newer bodies (5N,5R, 5T, A5000) or a used NEX-6.

 

[Zeknurn]

5N / 5R / 5T are a big upgrade step over the 5 in my opinion. 5R and 5T more than the 5N but still.

But that adapter alone is worth alot (LA-EA1?). If you get the whole package for cheap, you can still ditch the 5 body and keep the lenses and adapter and get one of the newer bodies (5N,5R, 5T, A5000) or a used NEX-6.

Yeah, that's what I suspected. I'll keep looking for one of the newer models. I doubt I'll find an offer as good as this but getting a good body is more important for me to keep the costs down.

It is a LA-EA1 but it's something he decided to throw in because he doesn't need it anymore and it's mildly loose when mounted.

Huge thanks for your help.

 

[HOMEBOY OVER HERE]

Why? Is not like the Zeiss Touit lens for XF mount are better than Fuji's own lens.

Plus, Zeiss lens for P&S/Smartphones is just a branding thing.

I want the zeiss lens used in the contax t2 compact. Idk bout the current zeiss lenses though, never used them.

 

[Donos]

Yeah, that's what I suspected. I'll keep looking for one of the newer models. I doubt I'll find an offer as good as this but getting a good body is more important for me to keep the costs down.

It is a LA-EA1 but it's something he decided to throw in because he doesn't need it anymore and it's mildly loose when mounted.

Huge thanks for your help.

(someone correct me if i'm talkiong nonesense)
Try to find a 5R body since the 5T is the "sucessor" although the only difference is an added NFC chip and so the 5R goes cheaper than the 5T..

Product line goes NEX 5 > 5N > 5R > 5T > A5000. NEX 6 and 7 > A6000. Sony ditched the NEX name (stupid decision imo).

5N has touchscreen which is nice for changeing the focus point pretty easily. They removed that after the 5N.
5R / 5T have an extra control dial and Wlan and "better" AF.
The 6 has an integrated electronic viewfinder which i learned to love and an integrated flash but the body is a bit bigger + the same Phase Hybrid AF the 5R/5T have.
The A5000 is a strange model because they added and removed some features compared to the 5R/5T. Smaller grip, removed the extra dial but it has the "new" and better menue from the A7 / RX100. Also 20MP instead of 16MP and the new Bionx processor. Haven't tried the A5000 yet but i know that i don't like it .
A6000 is the new hot shit but very expensive atm.

What are you looking for?

Buddy showed me the Fuji X-A1 recently which is really nice. The Retro design grows a bit on me. And the M1 seems also to be a good alternative to the NEX models and 500 €/$ cameras.

Was in Madrid and Barcelona two weeks ago and made around 2000 pics in 7 days with my NEX-6. Still have to learn a lot but i noticed that i'm starting to look at my surrounding with different eyes now. Always on the hunt for a good view/pic. Would not change a small mirrorless camera against a good but big DSLR anymore. When off, i could still shove the cam into my pant pockets (not jeans).
Quality is nice and enough for me. Looks good on an A3 print.

 

[Groof]

Actually the 5R still has the touchscreen and the a5000 is supposed to be the successor to the NEX-3x line and only brings a few things down from the NEX-5x line.

 

[Donos]

5r still had touch? Forgot that. Had a 5r for 5 month after my 5n but didn't use the touch often. Only for focusing. It's clunky for navigating the menues.

Edit:ah, i remember what they changed with the screen from 5n to 5r. The 5n had a capacitive touch screen and the 5r moved back to oldschool resistive touch if i remember correctly.
Edit2:lol beaten. I remember now that there was a hot topic in my camera forum with only one guy who was happy that he could use his new 5r with his gloves in the winter while everybody else was disappointed with the change they made to the touchscreen.

 

[Groof]

5r still had touch? Forgot that. Had a 5r for 5 month after my 5n but didn't use the touch often. Only for focusing. It's clunky for navigating the menues.

Yes, but I think they changed it from capacitive to resistive touch, which means its implementation is very cumbersome. I think I've used touch on my 5r like 3-4 times at most because it's so unresponsive.

 

[nitewulf]

That's what high end, 1st party fullframe lenses cost. Nikon and Canon want the same for their modern 70-200 f4 and their 50mm lenses are not as sharp. The 35mm is a little slow, but that makes it portable and ATM it is the cheapest FE lens.

Two wrongs don't make a right, but Olympus's two EQ. lenses to those zooms cost almost twice as much. Most good lenses are expensive so I hope Sigma stays independent and starts making FE lenses.

the canon 70-200 f/4 can be had for around $600...i have and had many high end lenses. sony lenses are always overpriced. but yeah the olympus zuicos are very expensive as well. but my point is, the alternative sony offers arent great, wheres either the panny or the oly normal 14-42mm zooms are excellent lenses, specially the first gens.

 

[tino]

the canon 70-200 f/4 can be had for around $600...i have and had many high end lenses. sony lenses are always overpriced. but yeah the olympus zuicos are very expensive as well. but my point is, the alternative sony offers arent great, wheres either the panny or the oly normal 14-42mm zooms are excellent lenses, specially the first gens.

Thats the non-IS version, and refub. The IS version is 1100-1200. I think its worth every penny for either version. But its too big. I am happier with my Fuji 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 (with IS).

Sony like to have major holes in their systems. Sony like to make bodies more than lens.

 

[mrkapawutzis]

Hey all, I've made the jump into purchasing a camera beyond my phone/point and shoot. I just bought a Sony NEX 6, after contemplating it for about a month, and I plan to mostly use it for landscape photography.

I do a lot of hiking and I'm always disappointed when I can't capture the majesty of the scenery so I'm also planning on eventually getting either the SEL16F28 or the SEL20F28 with the UWA add-on. What I'm wondering is whether or not the difference in focal length really justifies the $100 price difference, or is there more to that price difference than just the focal length? Does the 20 even work with the UW or fish eye convertor?

 

[CrashPrime]

So a couple years ago i bought a camera setup to do some filming but i changed careers and never put them to use. Im wondering if what i have is still considered good or if its now woefully out of date.

i have a couple m4/3 panasonics. GH2 and G5kk.

Canon FD adapter
Canon FD lens 50mm f1.4
Canon FD lens 35-105 f3.5
Canon FD lens 80-200 f4

CCTV adapter
CCTV Cosmicar lens 25mm 1.4

I feel like m4/3 kinda died. If you were in my position would you cash out this equipment for something else? My focus on video has basically disappeared, much more interested in still work. Do people still consider the vid quality really good?

 

[killertofu]

Thinking of jumping ship from Canon to Sony when the a7s ships. Am I crazy?

I've owned a t2i, 5d mark ii and an L lens or two. I think I'm a little scared cause I'm so familiar with the Canon brand but the video capabilities of the a7s are just great . What piqued my interest was realizing it was a full frame sensor

Anyone else jump from Canon to Sony? Do you miss anything?

 

[Radec]

^
You'll probably miss the AF speed and wide variety of lenses. But if you have the budget, top zeiss lenses will do the job.

 

[killertofu]

I had a nifty 50 on manual with my t2i for a few years so AF hasn't really been a big deal for me. Though my eyes might be getting a bit dimmer :lol

Has anyone had any experiences with the Rokinon/Samyang lenses on these? I was going to get the cine-lens pack for my t2i

 

[Donos]

Hey all, I've made the jump into purchasing a camera beyond my phone/point and shoot. I just bought a Sony NEX 6, after contemplating it for about a month, and I plan to mostly use it for landscape photography.

I do a lot of hiking and I'm always disappointed when I can't capture the majesty of the scenery so I'm also planning on eventually getting either the SEL16F28 or the SEL20F28 with the UWA add-on. What I'm wondering is whether or not the difference in focal length really justifies the $100 price difference, or is there more to that price difference than just the focal length? Does the 20 even work with the UW or fish eye convertor?

Haven't tried any of the both lenses but on my camera forum a lot of people are very critical with the SEL16.

UW converter from the SEL16 works with the SEL20F2.8 too.

 

[devon the dude]

I sold my nikon d5100 last week, now looking to upgrade. Narrowed it down to D5300 or D7100. Leaning toward 7100, because it has more focus points, and i think that will be helpful with a toddler who doesn't like to sit still. But would be ok with saving money on d5300 if the difference between the two isn't too big.

That said, I was thinking of getting a lens as well. Currently have 35mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8. And was looking at getting something with some reach to go along with the new camera, as we are starting to get my kid into sports. Anyone have insight on 18-105mm, 18-140mm, or 18-200mm?

I had the 18-55mm & 55-200mm with my d5100, but didn't think the picture quality was that great with either of those, especially compared to my prime lenses

 

[Fireblend]

I had asked this a while back but maybe I'll get some more replies this time around:

What do you guys think of buying a body-only A6000 with a 35mm 1.8 prime vs. buying one with the lens kit + some cheaper prime like the sigma? On the one hand I'm afraid I'll regret not having a lens that can zoom, but on the other one I've found myself using zoom less and less with my current camera, and the lenskit isn't a particularly good zoom anyway (afaik) so I might end up not even using it.

 

[Donos]

You can buy the 1650PZ dirt cheap used (100-140€). You can get it new for 170€ sometimes at amazon. If you have the money, go with the SEL35. If you need the flexibility of a zoom, just buy the kit lens later (used). Was glad that i had it with me in my vacation (Barcelona/Madrid) although i made a lot of the pics with the 30mm Sigma.
Also the first time i dropped my cam ;_;.

 

[sechsterangriff]

I had asked this a while back but maybe I'll get some more replies this time around:

What do you guys think of buying a body-only A6000 with a 35mm 1.8 prime vs. buying one with the lens kit + some cheaper prime like the sigma? On the one hand I'm afraid I'll regret not having a lens that can zoom, but on the other one I've found myself using zoom less and less with my current camera, and the lenskit isn't a particularly good zoom anyway (afaik) so I might end up not even using it.

Actually what I would advise you to do is to start with the SEL2870. It's a full frame but it's equivalent to a 35-105mm on APS-C, meaning you get more range, almost no vignetting and sharpness across the frame. Actually, it is one of the sharpest zooms you can get on e-mount. The best thing is since it's a kit lens for the A7 you can find it very cheap. Usually around 200€ used, a little more when new.
Then from there you can decide what primes you need. For example, If if you feel you need a wide angle lens, get a Sigma 19mm. If you like the 35mm focal range and need some extra light get the SEL35F18, otherwise get the Sigma 30mm. And so on...

 

[Mr Swine]

Stupid question but does the camera lens/camera take damage if it's on while I'm switching lens?

 

[Radec]

Stupid question but does the camera lens/camera take damage if it's on while I'm switching lens?

Not really.

 

[Mr Swine]

Not really.

Ok, was worried that it might damage the camera/lens, thanks for the quick reply!

 

[mrkapawutzis]

Haven't tried any of the both lenses but on my camera forum a lot of people are very critical with the SEL16.

UW converter from the SEL16 works with the SEL20F2.8 too.

Thanks for the info. I've been reading some criticism on the SEL16 as well but the price point is tempting. I'll probably just save up for the SEL20 and UW.

 

[Ty4on]

Thanks for the info. I've been reading some criticism on the SEL16 as well but the price point is tempting. I'll probably just save up for the SEL20 and UW.

SIGMA 19/2.8! If you don't need a pancake ofc.
I know it has been covered before, but the Sigma 19-30-60mm f2.8 primes have gotten a lot of praise for their performance and the sub 200$ price certainly helps.

 

[TerryLee81]

Its reassuringly solid, all metal casing. It's got a heft to it though as a result. I think it might be too thick of a breast pocket, certainly if the jacket were done up. Undone it feels ok, but it would depend on your jacket I suppose.

The flip screen is also very nice and the metal mechanism to allow it has almost no flex in it despite being so thin.

Viewfinder is nice and sharp and bright, also has a little horizon spirit leave on the display which I'm assuming is an option somewhere. Little fiddly to pull out

Turning the rear dial or the ring around the lens to adjust A, S or is easy.

One nice thing is when you manual focus it zooms right in on the scene so you can get perfect focus, if you wanted to MF.

Got a 32GB Lexar 400x card in and it says I can get 989+ images on there RAW+Jpeg.

the ARW RAW files are all about 20MB and the JPGs about 5MB.

One annoyance I've noticed is that when you put the EVF away it shuts the camera down. Not had a chance to look through the menus yet though.

Lightroom 5.5 also reads the RAW files fine.

Sorry I've not got any pics. Arrived yesterday and I was busy playing KSP lol

EDIT: just found out how to use the NFC to transfer images and how to use the phone to take them. Very cool. I'll more likely set it up as a hotspot to transfer though probably.

Did you own any of the prevoious models? If so, how does the size compare? Does it feel a lot thicker?

 

[reggieandTFE]

So a couple years ago i bought a camera setup to do some filming but i changed careers and never put them to use. Im wondering if what i have is still considered good or if its now woefully out of date.

i have a couple m4/3 panasonics. GH2 and G5kk.

Canon FD adapter
Canon FD lens 50mm f1.4
Canon FD lens 35-105 f3.5
Canon FD lens 80-200 f4

CCTV adapter
CCTV Cosmicar lens 25mm 1.4

I feel like m4/3 kinda died. If you were in my position would you cash out this equipment for something else? My focus on video has basically disappeared, much more interested in still work. Do people still consider the vid quality really good?

Micro 4/3 is definitely not dead. The GH4 is arguably the most exciting camera release of the year so far for hybrid shooters. However, If you're moving away from video and don't want to buy all new lenses I'd take a look at the Olympus EM10 or EM1; olympus cameras can use all your panasonic lenses, are much more focused on stills and have the best image stabilization system in the world.

 

[Meus Renaissance]

I wanted to ask you guys a question regarding the Fuji EV setting. I have rarely used Manual shooting in the past, but I’m now experimenting. Using an XE-1, when put into Manual mode, I’ve realised that I cannot change the EV setting using the wheel on the right. Instead, the EV level automatically changes depending on the amount of light on the subject. Is this normal? I was hoping I could control the EV level in Manual

I'm curious because a lot of the shots I take in (daylight) Aperture Priority mode, the shutter speed is rarely above 60. Obviously this is likely to impact the sharpness of my images.

 

[Ty4on]

I wanted to ask you guys a question regarding the Fuji EV setting. I have rarely used Manual shooting in the past, but I’m now experimenting. Using an XE-1, when put into Manual mode, I’ve realised that I cannot change the EV setting using the wheel on the right. Instead, the EV level automatically changes depending on the amount of light on the subject. Is this normal? I was hoping I could control the EV level in Manual

I'm curious because a lot of the shots I take in (daylight) Aperture Priority mode, the shutter speed is rarely above 60. Obviously this is likely to impact the sharpness of my images.

You do know what manual mode means? You chose the exposure yourself and are doing the job of the exposure compensation (EV dial) manually. I've never used a Fuji, but on Nikon exposure compensation shows how much your settings differ from what the camera thinks is correct exposure. If you'd like to shoot with auto exposure try finding the minimum shutter speed option if it is there or use manual shutter speed and aperture with auto ISO if that is possible. Experiment to find what shutter speed is the best because surprisingly many shutters induce blur at a certain shutter speed and it isn't impossible to get sharp shots at slow shutter speeds without OIS.

The great thing about manual is that you can keep the exposure constant even when the auto exposure struggles (one of many examples available) and you'll learn what the world looks like through the camera which can help you meter in challenging conditions.

 

[Flo_Evans]

Welp. The curse of the 17-35mm continues. This time it took a whole camera body with it and vanished!

Wonder if I should replace it with the d610 or wait for the d810 to drop?

 

[mrkapawutzis]

SIGMA 19/2.8! If you don't need a pancake ofc.
I know it has been covered before, but the Sigma 19-30-60mm f2.8 primes have gotten a lot of praise for their performance and the sub 200$ price certainly helps.

I'd definitely get the Sigma if it was a pancake lens and that price actually has me reconsidering my decision.

 

[345triangle]

I wanted to ask you guys a question regarding the Fuji EV setting. I have rarely used Manual shooting in the past, but I’m now experimenting. Using an XE-1, when put into Manual mode, I’ve realised that I cannot change the EV setting using the wheel on the right. Instead, the EV level automatically changes depending on the amount of light on the subject. Is this normal? I was hoping I could control the EV level in Manual

I'm curious because a lot of the shots I take in (daylight) Aperture Priority mode, the shutter speed is rarely above 60. Obviously this is likely to impact the sharpness of my images.

i'd check your ISO/auto ISO settings first, because aperture priority would definitely tend to select above 1/60 in daylight. i use that as the default minimum speed for low light shooting.

but otherwise, no, you can't use exposure compensation in manual mode. exposure compensation is best thought of as an override to what the camera sets, and it shouldn't be setting anything when you've taken direct control of the shutter speed and aperture. instead, what is usually the exposure compensation level becomes the EV level, and you should think of the shutter speed dial as a way to move it up or down to get the right amount of light once you've set the aperture. (or vice versa, of course, but i usually prioritise depth of field over capturing movement)

 

[Flo_Evans]

i'd check your ISO/auto ISO settings first, because aperture priority would definitely tend to select above 1/60 in daylight. i use that as the default minimum speed for low light shooting.

but otherwise, no, you can't use exposure compensation in manual mode. exposure compensation is best thought of as an override to what the camera sets, and it shouldn't be setting anything when you've taken direct control of the shutter speed and aperture. instead, what is usually the exposure compensation level becomes the EV level, and you should think of the shutter speed dial as a way to move it up or down to get the right amount of light once you've set the aperture. (or vice versa, of course, but i usually prioritise depth of field over capturing movement)

Idk about fujis... But it definitely changes the meter in Nikons. https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9602/~/slr-exposure-compensation-in-manual-mode

I usually don't bother, because you can just read the meter at +/- whatever stop you want.

 

[345triangle]

yeah i believe only nikon does it as a rule — i know canon and sony are with fuji in just disabling EC entirely. i think it makes more sense that way, otherwise you have to start second-guessing how the meter fits into the exposure triangle. the meter should just be the meter and not another adjustable parameter, at least for the way i think about taking photos.

 

[Flo_Evans]

Think I am going to do it

 

[killertofu]

The more I read about it, the more I want an a7s

Does anyone have any experience with Samyang/Rokinon lenses? I know there aren't many FE mount lenses...and I'm not sure if Samyang/Rokinon have released theirs yet

 

[RuGalz]

The more I read about it, the more I want an a7s

Does anyone have any experience with Samyang/Rokinon lenses? I know there aren't many FE mount lenses...and I'm not sure if Samyang/Rokinon have released theirs yet

They did announce various lenses will come to FE. http://www.dpreview.com/articles/0475103316/samyang-announces-five-full-frame-e-mount-lenses

I just bought the 8mm Fisheye for K-mount recently. I'd say the lens quality is great bang for the bucks and that's what most of the people say about their other lenses. Performs well enough wide open and very well step down a little. Flare resistance isn't great. It's sharp but color reproduction & micro contrast are so-so (YMMV), so a bit more PP maybe needed.

 

[obzourb]

Hey guys, new to this, first dslr.
I'm looking for one under $500. I need good video recording, 1080p, to make movies, and a good camera to take still photos for college.
I'm a bit confused about how much megapixels matter.
Right now I'm looking at the a3000, a58, D3200, and D3100. Any suggestions?

 

[obzourb]

Oh the a3000 isn't even a dslr. Shows how much I know.

 

[Donos]

Oh the a3000 isn't even a dslr. Shows how much I know.

Also look on the used market. You get a lot of stuff way cheaper with also months of warranty. That can widen your choice for your budget.

 

[phisheep]

Hey guys, new to this, first dslr.
I'm looking for one under $500. I need good video recording, 1080p, to make movies, and a good camera to take still photos for college.
I'm a bit confused about how much megapixels matter.
Right now I'm looking at the a3000, a58, D3200, and D3100. Any suggestions?

All a bit vague. Do you have any previous in photography? If so, that'll help some.

Megapixels matter, but not in the way that more=better all the time. Broadly speaking more Mp means greater resolution at the expense of physics, which reduces the usable resolution. And mostly nobody needs that level of resolution anyway. More Mp on a given sensor size gives more uncertainty as to what belongs to what pixel. Unless you're either printing poster-sized stuff or showing on a huge screen then anything over 12 Mp is either a bonus or, if it is pushing things too hard, bad.

On the D3200/D3100 stuff, around that time Canon were generally reckoned to better at video if that is what you are interested in. So might be worth looking at used T2i.

Whatever way it goes, the actual camera body is less important than the lenses you want. It's the lenses that end up most expensive, hold their value better, and that you'll likely want to keep. So check out the lenses first, or you will go way over budget.

 

[obzourb]

Alright I've been going around on craigslist and found a couple of candidates:
Nikon D3100 refurbished for $350.
Canon T3i for $400
Sony A100 with 4 lenses and accessories for $500
Sony a58 for $450 (just from Sony's website)
What do you think?
(My brother was going to get me a 50mm lens anyway so I'm not really looking into lenses.)

 

[diaspora]

Alright I've been going around on craigslist and found a couple of candidates:
Nikon D3100 refurbished for $350.
Canon T3i for $400
Sony A100 with 4 lenses and accessories for $500
Sony a58 for $450 (just from Sony's website)
What do you think?
(My brother was going to get me a 50mm lens anyway so I'm not really looking into lenses.)

If you're doing video, get the T3i and install Magic Lantern.

 

[GTI Guy]

I'm looking for an ultra compact camera to carry around with me regularly. I have a DSLR camera but it's too bulky and I rarely take it places with me. I have a kid and I want the ability to have a pocket camera that I can pull out in a moments notice. I am looking at the Sony RX100 but I don't consider it truly pocketable plus it's pretty damn spendy.

There are so many small cameras out there it's hard to pick one out. I of course want the best without breaking the bank. Size is important in this case but I don't want to get a camera that takes crummy pictures. My phone Nokia 920 does ok but I really prefer a camera to a phone camera.

Appreciate GAF's advice.

 

[DagsJT]

Have you actually held the RX100? It's pretty damn small and very pocketable in my opinion. Cracking camera too.

 

[RuGalz]

There are so many small cameras out there it's hard to pick one out. I of course want the best without breaking the bank. Size is important in this case but I don't want to get a camera that takes crummy pictures. My phone Nokia 920 does ok but I really prefer a camera to a phone camera.

Appreciate GAF's advice.

Anything smaller than the RX100 (even Canon S120 isn't really smaller than it), you can probably pick anything and the quality wouldn't be that different.

 

[GTI Guy]

Have you actually held the RX100? It's pretty damn small and very pocketable in my opinion. Cracking camera too.

Yeah I've held the MKI but not the latest MKIII. It's small don't get me wrong especially with all the tech inside...but I was looking at a camera like the Canon S110 which is approximately 30% smaller. Also the RX100 is damn expensive.

http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-Powershot-S110-vs-Sony-Cybershot-DSC-RX100

Anything smaller than the RX100 (even Canon S120 isn't really smaller than it), you can probably pick anything and the quality wouldn't be that different.

I thought that maybe that would be the case...getting to that size there may not be much different from one model to the next.

 

[obzourb]

If you're doing video, get the T3i and install Magic Lantern.

And that's exactly what I did! I found a craigslist post and got everything in the box for $375. He already had Magic Lantern installed. Thanks guys!

 

[diaspora]

Black's has the Canon 7D body for $699, now obviously since it's been discontinued they won't have stock, but if anyone's interested see if Henry's (who does have stock) will pricematch with them (Black's SKU 30331). You're gonna have to call a Black's store for them to tell the Henry's rep the price of the SKU since it's not on the web.

Just an FYI.