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The Official Headphone Thread 2.5: We're Making WAVs and Catching FLAC

HiResDes

Member
A cheap driver like those from the likes of Dayton Audio? No, in this day and age even products from the likes of Dayton Audio measure exceptionally well and sound just as good. Price and exoticness doesn't guarantee "transparency" or ease of use just like Beyerdynamic's Telsa drivers don't guarantee better performance than their decades old drivers despite costing significantly more. More often than not, I haven't seen a lot of evidence that really expensive and exotic drivers are heads and shoulders better than the competition...companies like Bowers and Wilkins seem to use stuff like diamond tweeters and Kevlar woofers more as a marketing term.

I thought I was pretty clear in my post...basically the overall component choice is mostly irrelevant. Yes, certain components are objectively better than others but in the grand scheme of things its a pretty small aspect of speaker design. Especially when the real magic is in the actual crossover and cabinet design.

Case in point: the KEF Q300's cost-cutting first order crossover results in obvious cone breakup. Since the Q300 uses a 6.5" cone, you get a double whammy of earlier cone breakup and inconsistent dispersion. Unfortunately, the part you can't see seems to be the first thing that goes under cost-cutting so poor crossover design seems to be an extremely common occurrence with Hi-Fi speakers...even with higher end multi-thousand dollar passives like those from ATC.

So 100 out 100 times I would pick a speaker with "cheap" drivers that actually use a properly designed crossover over an expensive speaker with an average crossover. The JBL LSR305 or Philharmonic Audio's Affordable Accuracy Monitor don't really use expensive parts but honestly sound better than a lot of more far more expensive speakers for a reason.



No idea, not a whole lot of detailed information regarding them.

At around the $200-$300 price range, Philharmonic Audio's Affordable Accuracy Monitor should be one of the best on the market. Dennis, the owner, basically takes a good Dayton Audio DIY kit with larger 6.5" woofers and implements a much improved 4th order crossover that also decreases the crossover frequency. Measurements definitely indicate its better than the ELAC B5 that everyone is going nuts over right now.

I emailed them to order a pair of AA monitors, thanks a bunch man I always love to hear your impressions because I think we share some of the same opinions in terms of preferred sound signature. I actually have around $400/$450 to spend on a pair, not sure if there's anything else I should consider before I jump on these...
 
Been looking to grab a pair of his Affordable Accuracy Monitors myself soon.

Need to find a nice amp to pair with them though. Any recommendations on the cheaper but not cheap sounding side?
 
I emailed them to order a pair of AA monitors, thanks a bunch man I always love to hear your impressions because I think we share some of the same opinions in terms of preferred sound signature. I actually have around $400/$450 to spend on a pair, not sure if there's anything else I should consider before I jump on these...
What amp are you going to use with the AA monitors?
 

HiResDes

Member
What amp are you going to use with the AA monitors?
I have a nad pre and either a crown xls 202 or an Onkyo Integra 8007 depending on what I feel like both capable of well over 100 WPC rms. Also gonna be using a powered subwoofer crossed over to alleviate some of the workload.
 

Man God

Non-Canon Member
So I'm looking for some over ear Bluetooth headphones, not teeing to break the bank but something quality. Are the Sony MDRXB950BT/B my best bet?

Yes, except they break often. Best bang for the buck though if you're lucky and they don't get the hinge fatigue.

I've gone through three sets at this point and they're way better than anything else in the 100 or less price range. Trust me, I've tried all of the alternatives!
 
Yes, except they break often. Best bang for the buck though if you're lucky and they don't get the hinge fatigue.

I've gone through three sets at this point and they're way better than anything else in the 100 or less price range. Trust me, I've tried all of the alternatives!
Any suggestions around that?
 

HiResDes

Member
So I ended with some Ascend 170s. I'm going to definitely need to build a badass subwoofer to complement these very neutral speakers. I really wanted to try the Philharmonic but I got a great deal on the Ascend that was hard to pass.
 
So I've been looking at videos and looking at headphone calculator websites, but I am still a bit confused. What amp/dac should I get for my AH-MM400?

Impedance: 32

Sensitivity: 96 dB

I would like to not spend more than 150 euros, at the very most 200.
 

Chittagong

Gold Member
Anyone have impressions of Oppo HA-2SE vs Chord Mojo? My AV guy hyped Mojo as the second coming of Jesus, on the other hand it's ugly af.

For context, the consideration is for portable use. Me and my mrs both have Oppo PM-3s as our travel headphones, and currently we have one one HA-2, so looking for another.
 
If you don't mind them a bit steam punk you can reinforce them with some metal clamps after they break. I just broke down and bought new ones, but I'm hard on the things and wear them sometimes for over ten hours a day.
I was talking about prices in that range for other headphones.
 

NotSelf

Member
Anyone have impressions of Oppo HA-2SE vs Chord Mojo? My AV guy hyped Mojo as the second coming of Jesus, on the other hand it's ugly af.

For context, the consideration is for portable use. Me and my mrs both have Oppo PM-3s as our travel headphones, and currently we have one one HA-2, so looking for another.

Did you read the review on innerfidelity from Bob Katz.
 

HiResDes

Member
So I've been looking at videos and looking at headphone calculator websites, but I am still a bit confused. What amp/dac should I get for my AH-MM400?

Impedance: 32

Sensitivity: 96 dB

I would like to not spend more than 150 euros, at the very most 200.
Low impedance, decent sensitivity, just about any entry combo should do, hell you could probably just cop a Schiit Fulla.
 

sankt-Antonio

:^)--?-<
So i got the RME Babyface Pro, and beside it being a really good audio recoding interface, it works terrific as a Headphone DAC/amp combo. Being able to use its software mixer is also very useful here. You can have eight presets, a (global!) EQ for example. Very handy to slightly boost the bass response of my HD800S.

There is a dim button that instantly reduces the output by a user definable amount, perfect for quick mute when someone walks by and asks me a question etc. and being back at the right level by pressing it again. Holding the dim button sets the output to a, pre defined, volume. the wheel does what it needs to, setting the output level.

Really handy features for daily use and next to my Objective O2 DAC/amp combo i could not hear much of a difference. All aluminium enclosure also feels very nice and sturdy.

I sound like a salesman here, but it's refreshing buying something and just being happy with it without finding some quirks or be annoyed with it - can't recall the last time that happened.

dde5e4-1480785181.png
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
My new laptop has an ESS "Saber Hifi Audio DAC", output rated 16ohm to 600ohm, signal to noise ratio of up to 127dBA and THD+N of -120dB.

All of my audio gear feels unnecessary now. I've tested it against my GO1000 and it is redundant.
 

ty_hot

Member
Anyone can help with recommendation for a earphone? My girlfriend wants some good earphones for Xmas. By good she means:

- Earphones (not headphones, over the ear, etc)
- not bluetooth (she will power it with a Benjie S5)
- VERY GOOD noise isolation (specially the noise coming FROM the earphone, because she listens VERY loud and doesnt want to annoy people that are commuting with her). I have those famous VE Monk Plus that sound nice but omg, when you turn them on your room becomes a live concert, everybody can listen with you...
- Sound signature probably flat with a little bit stronger bass (she likes commercial edm, eminem, etc)

up to 100 euros

We can wait for Xmas discounts as well so luckly 120-130 euros might be in my budget after disconted, but better if it costs less ;)

edit. forgot to mention, it would also be good if it could be used at the gym, but I dont want to sacrifice a lot of sound quality for that.
 
I have the RHA MA750.

Overall I'd say I like them a fair bit, but a couple things annoy me a little:
- long, straight jack instead of an L jack. a minor annoyance.
- cord is a bit longer than most IEM/earbuds I own.
- just a preference, but I find the over-the-ear loop a bit finnicky.

They sound quite good, but they wouldn't be my first choice if I had to buy a new IEM.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
With those requirements, I'd look at the RE-400. Its isolation is through the roof and into space.
 

ty_hot

Member
I have the RHA MA750.

Overall I'd say I like them a fair bit, but a couple things annoy me a little:
- long, straight jack instead of an L jack. a minor annoyance.
- cord is a bit longer than most IEM/earbuds I own.
- just a preference, but I find the over-the-ear loop a bit finnicky.

They sound quite good, but they wouldn't be my first choice if I had to buy a new IEM.

oh, that over the ear might be a problem =/ she will probably not like it

With those requirements, I'd look at the RE-400. Its isolation is through the roof and into space.

Is RE-400 the same as RE-400a? 116eur x 80eur in here.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
oh, that over the ear might be a problem =/ she will probably not like it



Is RE-400 the same as RE-400a? 116eur x 80eur in here.

RE-400, 400a, and 400i are the same core IEM, with the "a" or "i" standing for Android and iPhone, respectively.
 

FoxSpirit

Junior Member
A cheap driver like those from the likes of Dayton Audio? No, in this day and age even products from the likes of Dayton Audio measure exceptionally well and sound just as good. Price and exoticness doesn't guarantee "transparency" or ease of use just like Beyerdynamic's Telsa drivers don't guarantee better performance than their decades old drivers despite costing significantly more. More often than not, I haven't seen a lot of evidence that really expensive and exotic drivers are heads and shoulders better than the competition...companies like Bowers and Wilkins seem to use stuff like diamond tweeters and Kevlar woofers more as a marketing term.

I thought I was pretty clear in my post...basically the overall component choice is mostly irrelevant. Yes, certain components are objectively better than others but in the grand scheme of things its a pretty small aspect of speaker design. Especially when the real magic is in the actual crossover and cabinet design.

Case in point: the KEF Q300's cost-cutting first order crossover results in obvious cone breakup. Since the Q300 uses a 6.5" cone, you get a double whammy of earlier cone breakup and inconsistent dispersion. Unfortunately, the part you can't see seems to be the first thing that goes under cost-cutting so poor crossover design seems to be an extremely common occurrence with Hi-Fi speakers...even with higher end multi-thousand dollar passives like those from ATC.

So 100 out 100 times I would pick a speaker with "cheap" drivers that actually use a properly designed crossover over an expensive speaker with an average crossover. The JBL LSR305 or Philharmonic Audio's Affordable Accuracy Monitor don't really use expensive parts but honestly sound better than a lot of more far more expensive speakers for a reason.



No idea, not a whole lot of detailed information regarding them.

At around the $200-$300 price range, Philharmonic Audio's Affordable Accuracy Monitor should be one of the best on the market. Dennis, the owner, basically takes a good Dayton Audio DIY kit with larger 6.5" woofers and implements a much improved 4th order crossover that also decreases the crossover frequency. Measurements definitely indicate its better than the ELAC B5 that everyone is going nuts over right now.

Well, of course non shitty crossover comes first but I've built and heard properly designed Speakers with Dayton (my first DIY is a small Dayton BB and sounds great), SB Acoustics, Eton, Fountek, Visaton and Seas.

The standard SB acoustics sounds great but lacks overall tonal purity plus solidity in the lower Bass. Seriously, I put 35 hours into the speaker, awesome verneer job and all and yet I didn't become really happy. Take a Satori midwoofer, even a tiny one and my problems with the bass were gone. In fact, those things have exceptional bass control even as a passive, most likely due to their super low Qte, one of the lowest I have seen in midwoofers. That was always why I liked Eton Hexacone a lot, though their longstroker 8-inch of the old Symphony 1 line definitely profited from being driven in active mode. I did a lot of selective evalution because after all, how a tweeter sounds will affect your perception of the midwoofer (strong contender: my last 5 inch compact monitor).

I could make an forever post about listening and experimenting with drivers and getting a ton of first hand comparisons of properly designed speakers. Speaker evaluation was my biggest hobby the past 5 years and I will undersign that most commercial speakers are crap and often bad crossovers are only part of the worries. Like the B&W 683 I heard recently definitely had some untamed resonances in the treble region which could be attributed to bad crossover but nothing can save that bass resolution. And the worst part was that when you look at the driver in photos it looks amazing!!!

So yeah, proper design first of course. Still, just listen to an AA Monitor and the Philharmonitor side to side. The difference will be obvious. If you care enough for it is another thing ;-) If I was in the US, I'd totally have gotten that for my surveilance workplace :)
 
So I know for the most part, beats aren't all that great but they're the only headphones with the w1 chip right now. Amazon has them for 219.99.

Should I wait for other devices? Will the beats get cheaper than that?
 
HeadphoneGAF, I need some advice if anyone is willing to give it.

To provide some context, I'm coming off buying cheap headphones where the wire near the jack goes bad after a few months; I'm in the $50-$60 price range. I'd rather spend more on something more durable/workable for me, as I use headphones at least six hours a day (I've never actually kept track).

Anyway, I've settled on a pair of used Sennheiser Momentums. I'm not super selective about soundstage, isolation, or any of those sorts of specifications; I just want a durable pair of cans that sound great with decent bass. (I'd be lying if looks didn't figure into my choice, though, and I really like the look of these.)

So as you all probably know, Momentums (like many other headphones) use a detachable cord with a locking mechanism on a 2.5 mm jack. This is generally fine for me, given my usual problem with headphones, but it's been a bit of a pain in the ass having to pare down my search to 2.5/3.5 mm cords. It's especially tricky because I want something reinforced so as to postpone any further wire damage. I'm looking at wires like this and this.

I'm leery of buying offbrand products from China, but I haven't found many alternatives that aren't the same price as the headphones themselves...I guess I'm just asking whether anyone has experience with these, or whether I should steer clear.


I wouldn't be against better recommendations, either. :p
 

HiResDes

Member
It's official building my own subwoofer, it's gonna be a sealed 15 inch design utilizing a Tannoy driver and 300 watt plate amplifier.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
So I know for the most part, beats aren't all that great but they're the only headphones with the w1 chip right now. Amazon has them for 219.99.

Should I wait for other devices? Will the beats get cheaper than that?
Is Apple actually going to licence out the W1 tech?

Apple owns Beats. Getting cheaper is not their modus operandi.

HeadphoneGAF, I need some advice if anyone is willing to give it.

To provide some context, I'm coming off buying cheap headphones where the wire near the jack goes bad after a few months; I'm in the $50-$60 price range. I'd rather spend more on something more durable/workable for me, as I use headphones at least six hours a day (I've never actually kept track).

Anyway, I've settled on a pair of used Sennheiser Momentums. I'm not super selective about soundstage, isolation, or any of those sorts of specifications; I just want a durable pair of cans that sound great with decent bass. (I'd be lying if looks didn't figure into my choice, though, and I really like the look of these.)

So as you all probably know, Momentums (like many other headphones) use a detachable cord with a locking mechanism on a 2.5 mm jack. This is generally fine for me, given my usual problem with headphones, but it's been a bit of a pain in the ass having to pare down my search to 2.5/3.5 mm cords. It's especially tricky because I want something reinforced so as to postpone any further wire damage. I'm looking at wires like this and this.

I'm leery of buying offbrand products from China, but I haven't found many alternatives that aren't the same price as the headphones themselves...I guess I'm just asking whether anyone has experience with these, or whether I should steer clear.


I wouldn't be against better recommendations, either. :p

Don't let the smooth taste fool you. My "offbrand product from China" Momentum cable has lasted at least 2x as long as the official one bundled in from Sennehiser did.
 

kevm3

Member
As of right now LCD-3 has to be my favorite headphones. Finally headphones that I just listen to and stop wondering what I might be missing or how this or that element of sound quality is bothering me.
 
As of right now LCD-3 has to be my favorite headphones. Finally headphones that I just listen to and stop wondering what I might be missing or how this or that element of sound quality is bothering me.

This is basically how I feel about my Denon D2000. Like putting on a favourite pair of runners.
 

HiResDes

Member
Can someone help my dumbass figure out the best way to hook up all this shit up, especially which out to use for the subwoofer:

Okay here's the back of my receiver:

100_5920.jpg


Here's the back of the preamp:

485972-nad_1020_pre_amplifier_the_stand_alone_pre_amp_section_of_the_famous_3020_inregrated.jpg


Here's the back of the subwoofer I'm making:
301-510_HR_0.jpg


And the speakers have exactly what's you'd expect:
170SE_lt_bk_hr.jpg



...My first guess is that I should hook the speakers up to the subwoofer inputs and those straight to the receiver to allow for greater control? Then hook the subwoofer to the hi-level output and the receiver to the regular pre-out?
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
Yeah, Apple's never gonna let go of W1. It'll be Beats exclusive from now till forever.

It'd at least take a manufacturer who could cut a check with A LOT of zeros, if Apple is even taking phone calls on the licencing fees.

So basically, it's down to Sennheiser, or no one.
 

FoxSpirit

Junior Member
Can someone help my dumbass figure out the best way to hook up all this shit up, especially which out to use for the subwoofer:

Okay here's the back of my receiver:

100_5920.jpg


Here's the back of the preamp:

485972-nad_1020_pre_amplifier_the_stand_alone_pre_amp_section_of_the_famous_3020_inregrated.jpg


Here's the back of the subwoofer I'm making:
301-510_HR_0.jpg


And the speakers have exactly what's you'd expect:
170SE_lt_bk_hr.jpg



...My first guess is that I should hook the speakers up to the subwoofer inputs and those straight to the receiver to allow for greater control? Then hook the subwoofer to the hi-level output and the receiver to the regular pre-out?
I assume you control everything from the 1020 and use the receiver as a mere poweramp? If so:
1020 preout->sub line in->sub line out->receiver input->receiver power out into speakers
Employs internal crossover of the sub to split bass between speakers and bass
 
I want to get some light wireless earphones for outdoor use. Sony looks to have a new line out that's so new that there are basically no serious reviews.

The top of this line is the XB80BS "Extra Bass". Any ideas about whether these might be good?

My alternative would be the Plantronics Backbeat Fit, which do have some recommendations going for them. Forget about the $150-200 brands like Bose, Beats, and Jaybird.
 

HiResDes

Member
I assume you control everything from the 1020 and use the receiver as a mere poweramp? If so:
1020 preout->sub line in->sub line out->receiver input->receiver power out into speakers
Employs internal crossover of the sub to split bass between speakers and bass
Good looks man thanks
 

Nerdkiller

Membeur
Hi. Uhhh...my Sennheiser in ear headphones that I bought at the end of July are starting to break down, with the audio in the left channel starting to go, so I'm in the need for some new ones. Is there any make of headphone available with a reputation for reliability? €100 is the limit that I'm willing to pay.
 
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