Yuck.
There's nothing yuck about a PAL Gamecube.
Yuck.
Yep, though it's costly just to get the dsub cable.You can just use dsub or component with dsub adapter - not really any need for rgb.
Yuck.
So, I'm looking to buy a PS1 SCART cable. I need something that I can plug into my XRGB. I was gonna get this: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...on-1-2-ps1-ps2-rgb-scart-cable-lead-rca-sound
but I don't know what Sync option I should choose. What's going to give me the best video quality?
I think you mean d-terminal, which is just component. Completely different from dsub.You can just use dsub or component with dsub adapter - not really any need for rgb.
PAL Gamecube with digital out port is the most capable model of all. RGB, component, and with either a swap disc or a mod chip is the only Cube that can play every game correctly and do every video type.Yuck.
You want Luma sync for PS1/PS2
**That CSync cable is a new option. I have heard mixed reviews for using a sync stripper with the PS1, but it might be slightly better.
Hmm...
This shit's confusing. I should've been paying attention to all the RGB talk these last couple of years.
did PAL GCs actually have the Digital out? i assumed none had them since Component and progressive scan wasn't available.
Component has nothing to do with progressive scan. One's a type of colour output, the other is a display mode. It's just that component is arbitrarily required by many monitors to enable progressive scan. You can still use component for 240p/480i and have a vastly better colour separation than composite or svideo.did PAL GCs actually have the Digital out? i assumed none had them since Component and progressive scan wasn't available.
I haven't found a PAL game apart from Wave Race and Luigi that I can't force to 480p using swissPAL games don't do progressive scan but a PAL GC can do progressive scan with enabled (NTSC) games (using a Freeloader or chip to get around region lock for example).
I haven't found a PAL game apart from Wave Race and Luigi that I can't force to 480p using swiss
Ummm.. the originals didn't come with RGB cables and you're completely ignoring how expensive it is (and the skills required) to mod these systems. Oh, and that Analogue NT costs $600.
Buying original hardware is a minefield. Pick your poison: NES toaster with faulty pins, anyone? Or how about a top loader NES with RF out only? Does anyone know which variation of Genesis is the best without redirecting to an FAQ? Or how about a brittle, yellowed, cracking SNES?
I don't think this thread is just about the RGB elite. And I hate to burst your bubble but the sharp pixel "8-bit look" is a completely modern "misimpression" of what these games were designed to look like. Don't listen to me, the creative director/producer (aka- the first name that appears in the credits) at Westwood says so. Here, it's cued up already: https://youtu.be/kILeyo1iv0A?t=1m12s
Hey, Japan GAF. Do I have to wotry about claiming my game purchases from Japan at customs when I'm going back to America?
Either way can be considered "correct" depending on the system. Many old systems don't actually draw the game to the full screen, so pushing the red squares out of frame will eliminate the game's border and leave everything else intact. Doing this with a CRT's picture controls doesn't "scale" the image resolution at all, either, so you're not losing any clarity by doing so.
I don't think this thread is just about the RGB elite. And I hate to burst your bubble but the sharp pixel "8-bit look" is a completely modern "misimpression" of what these games were designed to look like. Don't listen to me, the creative director/producer (aka- the first name that appears in the credits) at Westwood says so. Here, it's cued up already: https://youtu.be/kILeyo1iv0A?t=1m12s
Thanks, this is good to know. I fired up the Genesis and noticed the screen fill was different. I guess it's best to strike a balance unless one wants to fiddle with settings each time.
Who is recommended for NESRGB mod of AV Famicom?
A Gaffer named Baphomet.
Hey guys, hope I can use some of your knowledge to ask a cheeky question.
Someone near me is selling a Bang & Olufson MX7000 (SW 3.1) for a reasonable price. Would this work correctly with a Super Famicom? Currently I have a small CRT that only outputs the picture in B&W whicheans it probably just can't handle the signal.
I can't find a conclusive answer online. Cheers for any help anyone might be able to give.
Hey, Japan GAF. Do I have to wotry about claiming my game purchases from Japan at customs when I'm going back to America?
Yep just like everywhere else we had digital out in the first units. I've actually never found one without it in the wild, though I know they exist.
What do you mean by component wasn't available?
PAL games don't do progressive scan but a PAL GC can do progressive scan with enabled (NTSC) games (using a Freeloader or chip to get around region lock for example).
Component has nothing to do with progressive scan. One's a type of colour output, the other is a display mode. It's just that component is arbitrarily required by many monitors to enable progressive scan. You can still use component for 240p/480i and have a vastly better colour separation than composite or svideo.
PAL Gamecubes have the digital out and are fully capable of 480p. It was the software that disabled it. I was playing my PAL Gamecube using component cables (direct from Nintendo AU for AU$50 heh) in 2002.
I haven't found a PAL game apart from Wave Race and Luigi that I can't force to 480p using swiss
I have... *looks at screen* nothing to declare.Repeat after me: "I have nothing to declare."
The black and white picture means that your PAL display can't decode an NTSC signal via Composite. Don't you have a Scart socket on your TV?
You want to find the user manual for the B&O. Check that it has a Scart socket and that it does NTSC via Composite. It wont do NTSC via RF so don't worry about that.
Get a Scart cable for your super famicom, stop worrying about colour encoding incompatibilities and enjoy the superior image quality.
I have... *looks at screen* nothing to declare.
I was guessing this was routine for people who do Japan trips. Can I really get away with up to two pieces of luggage filled with games?
Totally makes sense and I read something about $800 as well but wanted to make sure I interpreted that right. Does the form ask me to list what I have? (Video games lol)Yes. And you're not 'getting away with' anything. You don't have to say "i have nothing to declare" either. There is an $800 personal exemption before you'd even be liable for any duty, and if you're talking about mostly retro stuff customs isn't going to concern itself with placing values on such items. When you are on the plane returning you'll need to fill out a customs declaration form and it will ask the value of the items you're bringing back with you. As far as I'm concerned, used video game items are worthless (for purposes of going through customs). A brand new item should be included against your $800 exemption, but what they're really concerned about catching is items with values in the thousands. Say for instance you didn't really have $800 worth of stuff, but (for example) $1200 worth of stuff. How much do you think the duty on that excess $400 worth of stuff is?? Maybe $40-50? Not worth their time.
Ummm.. the originals didn't come with RGB cables
Totally makes sense and I read something about $800 as well but wanted to make sure I interpreted that right. Does the form ask me to list what I have? (Video games lol)
Any news on the Atari2600 rgb mod?
Awesome, thank you so much!no. but the customs agent may ask, depending on how long the line is behind you.
http://www.ugandamission.net/travel/air/image/6059bf.jpg
(just found on google - no special reason for that link except the pic is big)
Is it possible a dedicated scart lead could solve the problem then? I had just assumed my tv could not handle a 60hz NTSC image. (I am in the UK by the way!)
lol, just speaking for myself here (Other can feel free to chime in) but the few effects that are gained by destroying image quality (reducing dithering, creating more shades) is NOT worth it in comparison to the image quality gained with RGB. Sure, devs used the shitty signal to their advantage here and there, but again still not worth the downsides. Not to mention, other countries did have RGB, just not America. Your whole post is weird, and oddly aggressive. Get a good attitude buddy.
Why haven't more game designers been interviewed about this? It's such a hotly debated issue, and people with podcasts are getting retro game makers on from time to time.it is a fact that games were designed around the common standards like composite. They were made to be viewed like that to take advantage of the effects of it.
Why would so many games be designing their graphics around composite video when in 2/3 countries superior RGB was available?
The thing is that many developers visualized their software on RGB monitors back in the day.Why haven't more game designers been interviewed about this? It's such a hotly debated issue, and people with podcasts are getting retro game makers on from time to time.
In this thread there was a FF6 screen that showed quite clearly that composite brought to life an image that looked like a bunch of disconnected pixels on the emulation version with clear output. But then someone said look at if from 6 feet away, and it started to look better. There's also the leaves in Pitfall for Genesis, and the tubes in Sonic that look weird in RGB. It can't be an accident that these effects look like nothing without dithering from composite.
I think game makers probably developed graphics based on the dominant video output tech in Japan and the U.S., sorry Europe but look at Genesis and SNES sales figures . I would also guess that the average Japanese used composite. If the average Japanese gamer, or the overwhelming majority of them, was using RGB then we would have seen graphics made to work best with that format.
Was it that cut and dry? A big company like Sega or Nintendo, I'm sure they had access to consumer tvs to check on their games. They probably used monitors to make sure the colors were right, like a recording artist using monitor headphones to check on the purity of the recording. If they didn't have access to composite they could have never created the effects seen in some games, it could not have been a coincidence that some objects just happened to look more like they should on composite than RGB.The thing is that many developers visualized their software on RGB monitors back in the day.
They probably also took into account that most of their work would be seen on a composite connection, though.
That's an ok model, but on the low end for PVMs. It has RGB in (which you definitely need if you're going to the trouble of getting a pro monitor) and does 600 lines. It also only does up to 480i so you won't be able to set some 6th generation games to 480p.I just came across a Sony PVM 20L2MD on craigslist. Is this a good model, or are all Sony PVMs pretty much great for retro games?
it is a fact that games were designed around the common standards like composite. They were made to be viewed like that to take advantage of the effects of it.
That's an ok model, but on the low end for PVMs. It has RGB in (which you definitely need if you're going to the trouble of getting a pro monitor) and does 600 lines. It also only does up to 480i so you won't be able to set some 6th generation games to 480p.
In this thread there was a FF6 screen that showed quite clearly that composite brought to life an image that looked like a bunch of disconnected pixels on the emulation version with clear output.
Sweet. In another thread, Tim mentions adapting it for 7800 use, perhaps next year. I may holf out for that, may as well get two systems to have RGB despute the 7800 having a ho hum libraryLooks like the 2600rgb mod is finally out for $70 aud.