"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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So I'm thinking of picking up the NZXT Phantom 240, except it seems there's not enough clearance by 1 or 2mm to fit the 212 EVO... Suggestions for other decent coolers that will fit and not break the bank? Or am I out of luck?

Also congrats on the good news, kennah!
 
I'll post my question again on the new page: I've acquired a second hand SSD on which i want to install my OS.

What is the best way to go about formatting it?


Any help would be appreciated.
 
I'll post my question again on the new page: I've acquired a second hand SSD on which i want to install my OS.

What is the best way to go about formatting it?


Any help would be appreciated.

You can do it straight from the installation. Make sure it's the only drive plugged in, load the DVD/USB drive, Install > Advanced > Format > New > Install Windows.
 
Anyone use the 'ASRock HDD Saver Technology' regularly?

I'm in the market for a new mobo and this feature sounds good for someone like me who has four internal physical drives and would benefit from having three of them turned off most of the time!
 
So I'm thinking of picking up the NZXT Phantom 240, except it seems there's not enough clearance by 1 or 2mm to fit the 212 EVO... Suggestions for other decent coolers that will fit and not break the bank? Or am I out of luck?

Also congrats on the good news, kennah!

Possibly arctic freezer series or a Noctua down facing solution,
 
Anyone use the 'ASRock HDD Saver Technology' regularly?

I'm in the market for a new mobo and this feature sounds good for someone like me who has four internal physical drives and would benefit from having three of them turned off most of the time!

Windows automatically turns off idle HDD's after a configurable period of time. Default of 20 minutes.

Get an Asus board.
 
If I can't have my PC in the same room as my modem and router am I better off using a wireless card or powerline adapters?
 
If I can't have my PC in the same room as my modem and router am I better off using a wireless card or powerline adapters?

Powerline adapters by far. I just installed mine and they rock.


edit: I have that infamous aluminum wiring and they still work flawlessly.
 
If I can't have my PC in the same room as my modem and router am I better off using a wireless card or powerline adapters?
Powerline adapters can achieve nearly lossless speeds if the wiring in your place is good.

WiFi is usually only ever a fraction of what your line can do.
 
Lol. I'm sure I mentioned the baby here before. We are seven months along so it is old news now. That's why I have to finally finish my watercooling in September
 
  • Your Current Specs: Crappy Laptop, but my last desktop was Intel e5200, 4GB DDR2, ATI 4650 512MB
  • Budget: $600 (Will upgrade later, just want something to start with. I understand this is a very difficult price.)
  • Main Use: Gaming [5], Emulation (PS2/Wii) [4], Video Editing, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) [4].
  • Monitor Resolution: 1080p, will switch between my Asus monitor in the home office and Panasonic p50G25 in the living room
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Would like to get 1080p 60fps, but I understand not being able to maintain that with my budget. I want to be able to play current gen ports, indies, and emulate PS2 games.
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
  • When will you build?: In the fall.
  • Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

I'm partial to Corsair Ram, Seasonic PSUs, Intel processors, and Asus motherboards. But again, I'll compromise for the budget. Don't have a video card preference, although I hear the new nVidia stuff is coming.

I will be using a controller for almost everything (PS4).

I don't include peripherals/OS in the budget.

Edit: I live in the US, btw. (Forgot that part :p)
 
  • Your Current Specs: Crappy Laptop, but my last desktop was Intel e5200, 4GB DDR2, ATI 4650 512MB
  • Budget: $600 (Will upgrade later, just want something to start with. I understand this is a very difficult price.)
  • Main Use: Gaming [5], Emulation (PS2/Wii) [4], Video Editing, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) [4].
  • Monitor Resolution: 1080p, will switch between my Asus monitor in the home office and Panasonic p50G25 in the living room
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Would like to get 1080p 60fps, but I understand not being able to maintain that with my budget. I want to be able to play current gen ports, indies, and emulate PS2 games.
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
  • When will you build?: In the fall.
  • Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

I'm partial to Corsair Ram, Seasonic PSUs, Intel processors, and Asus motherboards. But again, I'll compromise for the budget. Don't have a video card preference, although I hear the new nVidia stuff is coming.

I will be using a controller for almost everything (PS4).

I don't include peripherals/OS in the budget.

Someone else can get more specific, but to give you an idea of what you can afford, I'd go with the "Good" build in the OP with an SSD.
 
Windows automatically turns off idle HDD's after a configurable period of time. Default of 20 minutes.

Get an Asus board.

Not sure why I forgot about Windows' idle disk settings :\ thanks.

This is what I've got so far (CPU/RAM not bought yet) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/h9whvK - lots of Z97 motherboards to choose from :\ leaning towards the Pro4 at £75, but I do like the debug LEDs and onboard power/reset buttons on the Extreme4... ~£100.
 
I need a new PC but this thread (OP) confuses me as I'm such a novice :(

Give some information:
What PC parts do you own and could re-use?
What kind of performance are you looking for, and what resolution would you like to play at?
What is your budget?

Do you need a new mouse/keyboard/monitor, and do you need a new Windows license? If so, are these included in the above budget?
 
Give some information:
What PC parts do you own and could re-use?
What kind of performance are you looking for, and what resolution would you like to play at?
What is your budget?

Do you need a new mouse/keyboard/monitor, and do you need a new Windows license? If so, are these included in the above budget?

A) Nothing worth keeping, I want everything bigger and better (PC isn't that great, can't even play Sim City)
B) Just want to play Sim City on high settings (maybe even ultra, but think I'm punching above my weight)
C) £300 - £400?
Think I'd need a new Windows license but everything else is fine.
 
Not sure why I forgot about Windows' idle disk settings :\ thanks.

This is what I've got so far (CPU/RAM not bought yet) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/h9whvK - lots of Z97 motherboards to choose from :\ leaning towards the Pro4 at £75, but I do like the debug LEDs and onboard power/reset buttons on the Extreme4... ~£100.

Find out if they are using a Digital VRM (like Asus DigiVRM). See ive been through 2 AsRock boards, and they sucked for overclocking. Heres my results

i7 3960x
Asus P9X79 Deluxe - 1.40v 4.7Ghz
Asus Rampage Gene IV - 1.39v 4.8Ghz
ASrock Extreme 4 X79 - 1.40v 4.5Ghz (Analogue VRM)

i7 4960x
Asus Rampage Gene IV - 4.4Ghz 1.30v
ASrock Extreme4-M - 4.2Ghz barely stable 1.40v. Incredibly flaky.

Now i know why the more expensive boads really are more expensive. AFAIK only the Fatality series use Digital VRM micro controllers and they should perform like the Asus boards. But all the Asus boards are using digital VRM technology now. Plus the Asus software is the best out of the bunch, even if its still pretty bad overall.

Maybe go for the Asus Z97M-Plus or similar.
 
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
Processor: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo)
Hard Drive: SanDisk 256gb SSD
RAM: Kingston HyperX 8GB 240-Pin DDR3
GPU: XFX R9 270x DD 2gb
Case: ZALMAN ZM-Z9 U3 Black Steel Mid Tower w/ temp display
PSU: 550w

Okay so finally finishing my rig. If I wanted to go the SLI route and get another r9 down the road how powerful do I need to go on my PSU? Thanks.

Any other advice, critiques welcome. This is my first build.
 
  • Your Current Specs: Crappy Laptop, but my last desktop was Intel e5200, 4GB DDR2, ATI 4650 512MB
  • Budget: $600 (Will upgrade later, just want something to start with. I understand this is a very difficult price.)
  • Main Use: Gaming [5], Emulation (PS2/Wii) [4], Video Editing, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) [4].
  • Monitor Resolution: 1080p, will switch between my Asus monitor in the home office and Panasonic p50G25 in the living room
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Would like to get 1080p 60fps, but I understand not being able to maintain that with my budget. I want to be able to play current gen ports, indies, and emulate PS2 games.
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope
  • When will you build?: In the fall.
  • Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

I'm partial to Corsair Ram, Seasonic PSUs, Intel processors, and Asus motherboards. But again, I'll compromise for the budget. Don't have a video card preference, although I hear the new nVidia stuff is coming.

I will be using a controller for almost everything (PS4).

I don't include peripherals/OS in the budget.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($73.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($73.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($96.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $444.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-08 17:45 EDT-0400

That's actually a bit cheaper than the price list, because the PSU is on sale today. Promo code EMCPBPB98 brings it to $75, MIR brings it to $60. You can go cheaper there, but since you said Seasonic, I am very much in favor of trying to support that :P

Toss in a video card of your choosing, and this case, and you're right at $600.

You can drop the SSD to a standard HDD, or also drop the heatsink. The Pentium in there can be overclocked to the nines, which will give you insanely good emulation performance, right on par with the $300+ processors. It also performs damn well in current games when overclocked.

c3-fps.gif


A proper budget GPU would be something like the R7-260X, 750 Ti, or this 270 which is on sale for $140 after MIR and promo code EMCPBPB94 .

**EDIT**

I should also say, that this system will allow you to toss in a 4690K or 4790K later on down the road and hit the ground running, should you want to run next-gen stuff at a higher frame rate.
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme 4
Processor: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo)
Hard Drive: SanDisk 256gb SSD
RAM: Kingston HyperX 8GB 240-Pin DDR3
GPU: XFX R9 270x DD 2gb
Case: ZALMAN ZM-Z9 U3 Black Steel Mid Tower w/ temp display
PSU: 550w

Okay so finally finishing my rig. If I wanted to go the SLI route and get another r9 down the road how powerful do I need to go on my PSU? Thanks.

Any other advice, critiques welcome. This is my first build.
The only time you should ever crossfire/SLI is to achieve performance that is otherwise impossible with a single card. Dual 270x is a baaaaad way to go.
 
A) Nothing worth keeping, I want everything bigger and better (PC isn't that great, can't even play Sim City)
B) Just want to play Sim City on high settings (maybe even ultra, but think I'm punching above my weight)
C) £300 - £400?
Think I'd need a new Windows license but everything else is fine.

From scan.co.uk, something like this maybe

Im not so familiar with simcity, so another member might be in a better position to judge this config.
 
I built my PC about a month ago based on recommendations here and overall it's been working well. However for some reason whenever I turn off my monitor and leave the PC running for a little while the OS typically becomes unresponsive when I start using it again. Should I just reinstall and hope everything works better? Reinstall some drivers maybe?

Also having an issue with my H80i being too loud for my liking whenever I play a game or am streaming video. I downloaded CorsairLINK but I can't seem to adjust the fan speed. Is the program useless without that kit that is available online? Or could I have incorrectly wired the cooler/fan somehow? Is there another program I should be using to adjust the speed (SpeedFan?)?
 
I built my PC about a month ago based on recommendations here and overall it's been working well. However for some reason whenever I turn off my monitor and leave the PC running for a little while the OS typically becomes unresponsive when I start using it again. Should I just reinstall and hope everything works better? Reinstall some drivers maybe?

Also having an issue with my H80i being too loud for my liking whenever I play a game or am streaming video. I downloaded CorsairLINK but I can't seem to adjust the fan speed. Is the program useless without that kit that is available online? Or could I have incorrectly wired the cooler/fan somehow? Is there another program I should be using to adjust the speed (SpeedFan?)?

Corsair link is used when you connect the fans to the H80i waterblock/pump, and connect the wateblock/pump via USB to the motherboard USB internal header. It should read the pump seed at around 4000 iirc. You should be able to control the fans if its been connected up right.

Or, you can just plug the fans into the motherboard and use either the Bios or motherboard fan control software to control the fans.

Are there any devices with an exclamation mark in Device Manger?
 
I built my PC about a month ago based on recommendations here and overall it's been working well. However for some reason whenever I turn off my monitor and leave the PC running for a little while the OS typically becomes unresponsive when I start using it again. Should I just reinstall and hope everything works better? Reinstall some drivers maybe?

Also having an issue with my H80i being too loud for my liking whenever I play a game or am streaming video. I downloaded CorsairLINK but I can't seem to adjust the fan speed. Is the program useless without that kit that is available online? Or could I have incorrectly wired the cooler/fan somehow? Is there another program I should be using to adjust the speed (SpeedFan?)?
Per the top, overclocked systems typically don't play well with power saving states (called C states). So you either want to disable those C states in BIOS, or mess with the windows power saving options to never hibernate/sleep.

Are the fans plugged into the H80i or the motherboard? If the former, plug them directly into the motherboard and control them that way through BIOS. Set a max fan speed of ~1200 RPM, which will be plenty high.
Wait, different PSU's have different cable management?
Yep. There's fully modular PSUs where each cable you use has a header on the PSU you plug into.


Then there's partially modular PSUs where most of the SATA/molex and some of the PCI-E connectors are modular.


You can even get single braided cables to make the cabling look extra tidy.

 
Wait, different PSU's have different cable management?

A modular PSU has cables that plug into the the PSU, and can be removed if not required at all. For example, most PSUs run 2 cables with 4-5 SATA power connections. You may only have an SSD and HDD, therefore one of these cables is redundant. On a hybrid modular PSU this can just be unplugged.

A fully modular PSU even lets you unplug cables that are always used, such as the 8pin CPU or 24pin ATX cable from the the unit. Non modular means all cables are hardwired to the internals of the PSU. This means any unused cables need to be hidden away, but with a modular this is less of an issue. The greatest advantage occurs in small chassis.
 
*awesome build*

That's exactly what I was looking for!! Something that is pretty solid to start out and that can upgrade later on. Glad you got a Seasonic in there ;p.

Two questions:

1. How reliable is ASRock? I've heard very good things here and I trust your knowledge, I just have never had any experience with them.

2. Will it matter that the processer is dual-core instead of Quad? Those benchmarks are very telling of it's gaming performance so I don't think it will matter at all. I don't plan on encoding or editing at all. That is one amazing chip!!

And yea, I don't think I'd ever go for crossfire/sli, from what I learned from lurking here and PCMech is that one strong gpu is a much better idea. For my purposes anyway lol.

Thank you so much for your help! :D

Edit: Oops, the crossfire part was for someone else. Quoted you seconds after you edited.
 
1. Plenty reliable. This ASUS Z97-M Plus would be more or less the next tier of motherboard, but would bring up the price by $26.

2. Eventually, yes. For a huge insanely large majority of last gen and even current release, high IPC is the most important factor in gaming performance. But, that dual core aspect will begin to take its toll on performance.

And no problem!
 
Another X99 teaser:

900x900px-LL-bb0d7f5c_X99-Gaming_G1_WIFI_00_thumb25255B225255D.png


Gigabyte, why do you hurt me with the abandonment of green?
Bought an Open Box Asus 290X from newegg for $400. Here's hoping it holds up, any tips? :)
Enjoy playing games with blazingly high frame rates. And get a 120Hz monitor to take advantage of it :P
 
1. Plenty reliable. This ASUS Z97-M Plus would be more or less the next tier of motherboard, but would bring up the price by $26.

2. Eventually, yes. For a huge insanely large majority of last gen and even current release, high IPC is the most important factor in gaming performance. But, that dual core aspect will begin to take its toll on performance.

And no problem!

Would this psu be better? It's the same price (after coupon code/MIR), but it's semi-modular. They seem almost identical.
 
Find out if they are using a Digital VRM (like Asus DigiVRM). See ive been through 2 AsRock boards, and they sucked for overclocking. Heres my results

i7 3960x
Asus P9X79 Deluxe - 1.40v 4.7Ghz
Asus Rampage Gene IV - 1.39v 4.8Ghz
ASrock Extreme 4 X79 - 1.40v 4.5Ghz (Analogue VRM)

i7 4960x
Asus Rampage Gene IV - 4.4Ghz 1.30v
ASrock Extreme4-M - 4.2Ghz barely stable 1.40v. Incredibly flaky.

Now i know why the more expensive boads really are more expensive. AFAIK only the Fatality series use Digital VRM micro controllers and they should perform like the Asus boards. But all the Asus boards are using digital VRM technology now. Plus the Asus software is the best out of the bunch, even if its still pretty bad overall.

Maybe go for the Asus Z97M-Plus or similar.
That's disappointing :\ thanks very much for posting the numbers - I'll have a 4690K under an H60 hydro cooler, so OC is going to be quite important here.

I've had an Asus board for a while now, so I'll go with another. Looks like it's between the Z97-A and Maximus VII Ranger, with prices being about £105 and £125 respectively.

I can't see a debug LED on the Z97-A, and it sure doesn't look as good as the Ranger. The KeyBot feature sounds pretty cool.
 
That's the one I meant to add in PCPartPicker! So yes :P

Haha :p Awesome, this is coming together nicely. I'm really close to ordering right now, but (as an adult) I should wait until next Thursday (Payday)...but I don't think I can. It's funny how a couple posts ago I said I wanted to build in the fall. What has my brain done to me!!?!? This will go well with my PS4/Wii U.
 
Welp, my GPU finally gave up the ghost. Someone suggested I update the graphics card's BIOS and after I did it never worked again.

But my dad, being awesome, said he would buy me a new one to celebrate the closing on a house we have been trying to sell forever.

I haven't gone card shopping in forever, and I really am scared I will get the same boot loop problems I posted about earlier. Hard limit he said he would cover is $350, but I can always pony up more money to get a better card. I was thinking maybe an R9 290?
 
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