Buggy Loop
Member
So im basically waiting on phantek enthoo evolv white case to be released before i upgrade to a mATX setup. The wait is long -_-
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!
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Hm. Holy cow... what variables are even left, you tried multiple cables as well.
edit: Ooh. Try a different router, if you have one?
The Lamonster
Member
I don't have a different router...I did notice I don't have Microsoft SNMP Services installed. Don't know what that is but would it matter?
Mmm. I like that case. I thought it was mini-ITX for some reason though. mATX is even better imo. I'm tempted!
Fun Factor
Formerly FTWer
Looks like I can get a good deal on a AMD Radeon HD 7900 soon.
What would be the recommended minimum power supply wattage to get along with it?
What would be the recommended minimum power supply wattage to get along with it?
~550-550w.
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks, but updating did not help. I even power cycled the router and disabled and enabled the driver.
Thanks, but updating did not help. I even power cycled the router and disabled and enabled the driver.
When you do a right click properties in Device manger on the Intel LAN Ethernt adaptor, there should be some diagnostic tests you can run. See what they say, they will indicate basic line quality.
The Lamonster
Member
Should I change the speed and duplex?
Is this our culprit? Forcing to a low speed? wtf
cable looks good:
hardware all good:
The Lamonster
Member
Try forcing your DNS servers to 8.8.4.4 and 75.75.75.75.
I will try that...but wait, what the hell is this second public network connection?
What is going on?
and why are they both "public?" Is this bad?
edit: here's the mysterious second network properties:
Fun Factor
Formerly FTWer
Seems low, I heard 1,000 watt power supply boxes are need for 3GB GB cards with GDDR5 ram?
If I go higher & get a 750 watt power supply, would it not matter?
I plan to add a few extra fans inside my case to cool everything down & think I might need extra wattage.
They're just DNS servers, not networks in and of themselves. It's Google's and Comcast's, respectively.
Fans pull almost nothing. I don't know what you heard, especially since memory has almost nothing to do with power consumption, but 1000W is only needed for 2-3 video cards in a system.
You heard wrong there(way wrong). 500-550w with at least a Bronze PSU and you're golden, even to run any extra case fans. Going higher isn't going to hurt anything, but there's no need to unless you want to add a 2nd GPU or something in the future. It'd just be a waste of money.
The Lamonster
Member
Okay great. About your DNS recommendation, what you said doesn't completely correspond to your screenshot. Should I use 8.8.4.4 or 75.75.75.75 as the preferred server?
Also should I change it on the version 6 or the version 4 or both?
Absolute nonsense. Single GPU other than a 780Ti or 290/290X you're talking 550w at most.
Fans use almost negligible amounts of power.
Just IPv4, and it doesn't matter which you use as primary or secondary.Okay great. About your DNS recommendation, what you said doesn't completely correspond to your screenshot. Should I use 8.8.4.4 or 75.75.75.75 as the preferred server?
Also should I change it on the version 6 or the version 4 or both?
The Lamonster
Member
Should I change the speed and duplex?
Is this our culprit? Forcing to a low speed? wtf
ohhhhh shit I changed this setting to Auto Negotiation and BOOM.
Thanks dudes for the help
Fun Factor
Formerly FTWer
Thanks for the info everybody, I think I'm set then.
Okay great. About your DNS recommendation, what you said doesn't completely correspond to your screenshot. Should I use 8.8.4.4 or 75.75.75.75 as the preferred server?
Also should I change it on the version 6 or the version 4 or both?
Lets just clear up what DNS is, Domain Name Server, a server which translates the web address such as www.google.com to an IP address. No since you can actually browse the internet, albeit at a low speed, it means there is nothing wrong with the DNS as this is the first stage in resolving and connecting to a webpage. Your problem is just throughput.
Edit: Good job just saw the post.
The diagnostics say that the adaptor is being forced to a lower speed, this is because it has detected a 1Gbps link speed capability, yet has been linked/forced to 100mbps. Considering the 3mbps speed you are receiving, or the 20mbps speed you should receive is nowhere near 100mbps, this is not a relevant factor, unless it had been set to 10mbps. You can set this to AUTO, and see what it speed it syncs to.
The Lamonster
Member
yeah this was my thought as well, but I tried it and it worked! Probably has to do with the powerline network adapters being gigabit. I sprung for the top of the line model
Ray Wonder
Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Is this a good Gtx 780? MSI GeForce GTX 780 Twin Frozr Video Card - 3GB GDDR5
Is there much of a difference between "same type" cards? Like is a EVGA 780 card better than a Gigabyte? Or in this case a MSi.
Is there much of a difference between "same type" cards? Like is a EVGA 780 card better than a Gigabyte? Or in this case a MSi.
Yeah, thanks. My networking knowledge is basically, "I dont know what any of this means, but I know what kinds of settings to change to see if anything makes a difference, even though those settings might not have anything to do with the problem at hand."
Lol this is always handy
If you mean, "always makes my networking friends mad at the mess I've created", then yes.
Clock speed, warranty, and cooler type.
Basically, stick to ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, and EVGA. At that point, get the cheapest, unless there is something with a much higher clockspeed out of the box at a great price.
Yeah, I think I've gotten to this point as well. I wish there was a WS class board in the mATX form factor. To get any decent set of features with mATX, I seemingly always have to go with the "gamer" board.
Ray Wonder
Founder of the Wounded Tagless Children
Thank you sir. This one looks like it's as cheap as i'm gonna find.
lostsupper
Banned
In addition to cooler differences, stock clocks, and warranty, some cards have non-reference pcb's with more vrm circuits. The Asus DCII 780 and the EVGA Classified, for example. Both of these will clock higher than a "normal" 780 if you can cool them.
ab.aeterno
Member
What would be a fair selling price for the Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 GHz? I'm debating ditching one of my cards currently in Crossfire since it has no real world benefit for games that I'm seeing, and socking that money away for a high end 8xx series card depending on reviews.
Eh, that's not going to make a difference unless the chips are binned or you've replaced the BIOS with a custom BIOS to allow high overvolting.
It knows what your subconscious truly desires.
lostsupper
Banned
Not true. The Asus card's stock BIOS lets you volt to 110%, the "normal" 780's only allow 106%.
That's BIOS, not circuitry.
What I'm saying is that the GPU in 99% of instances is going to be the highest limiting factor in terms of max overclocking. Where that 4% higher voltage headroom would take effect is if you have two almost identical chips, and one happens to clock a bit better with that 4%.
So, unless the chips are binned, it's all a roll of the dice.
It's just like fancy motherboards these days. You can buy a $400 motherboard with insane power delivery, but it's likely going to get the same max clockspeed out of a 4790K as any 6 phase motherboard out there.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
So after contacting CCLonline yesterday about sending back a monitor, they said they would contact me today to confirm what was going on with me getting a refund.
I've heard nothing.
I would most definitely NOT order anything from CCLonline unless you like being messed around. Utterly useless.
I've heard nothing.
I would most definitely NOT order anything from CCLonline unless you like being messed around. Utterly useless.
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
That's not voltage as far as I'm aware, that only controls power consumption limit (TDP).
That's right. I've built my sister a gaming rig using the EVGA Hadron Air (mini ITX), and the included slim-profile 500W PSU, and thankfully she hasn't had any problems at all running a 4790K + 780ti at stock speeds. In fact, the entire system only pulls about 390W from the wall under full load.
I have a question for you Pc gaf.
I have gotten a second hand SSD and I am pretty sure the person whom i have gotten it from has used it to run his OS with.
The thing is that i have no idea how hè has formatted it.
Is a quick format enough if i want to use it to install my own OS on?
I have gotten a second hand SSD and I am pretty sure the person whom i have gotten it from has used it to run his OS with.
The thing is that i have no idea how hè has formatted it.
Is a quick format enough if i want to use it to install my own OS on?
Holy fuck, friend. Writing this one down.ohhhhh shit I changed this setting to Auto Negotiation and BOOM.
Thanks dudes for the help
"Configured to force the connection to a low speed?" Can someone illustrate why this would ever, ever, ever, ever be the default setting for a consumer NIC?
edit: TD just called, the mobo was indeed bricked and they've replaced it, welp. just a speed bump I suppose. I think i'll go without the latest BIOS this time.
Never, by default its set to Auto Negotiation, and will settle on the highest detected link speed. And even if it was on 10mbps half duplex, you'd be getting more than 3mbps.
What happened with the Bios update? Did you use the Bios Flash Utility built into the Bios?
I wonder how it got changed off of Auto and why it interpreted 100/full as "cut speed by 9/10ths."
I thought that's what M-Flash was (you access it through the UEFI interface on MSI boards), but apparently it's something different?
I wonder how it got changed off of Auto and why it interpreted 100/full as "cut speed by 9/10ths."
I thought that's what M-Flash was (you access it through the UEFI interface on MSI boards), but apparently it's something different?
The most likeliest scenario is the original drivers from 2009 did something funky. The settings must have not been refreshed/defaulted by the new drivers. Best way to avoid this is to uninstall and delete the old driver and let Windows re-recognise the hardware. Then install a fresh driver.
The Lamonster
Member
I wonder how it got changed off of Auto and why it interpreted 100/full as "cut speed by 9/10ths."
yeah...I never changed it either. It just wasn't working as designed.
Glad it's working now though! Powerline adapters are AMAZING, especially when you suddenly find out that your beloved office must be converted into a nursery
yeah...I never changed it either. It just wasn't working as designed.
Glad it's working now though! Powerline adapters are AMAZING, especially when you suddenly find out that your beloved office must be converted into a nursery
I know that feeling
Earlier this year I had to turn the living room into my office. Had to move my 50ft network cable from the office to the living room. Thank goodness for a basement and a hole saw.
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