"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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Alright guys, I think I've finally obtained all the parts I need to build a computer.

i7-4790K (CPU)
Geforce GTX 760 (GPU)
Gigabyte Z97X-SOC FORCE (Motherboard)
16GB RAM
240GB SSD
600GB HDD
Corsair CS550M (PSU)
LG Blu-Ray Reader
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Case)

Planning to get a Heatsink within the coming days, but otherwise, am I set to build my own PC now? How good is this setup and is there any advice for what I've got?

Looks super solid, I'm glad you decided to get a GTX 760 than a 770. The 770 is worse value, and buying the 760 gives you the chance to upgrade sooner. I wouldn't be the biggest fan of the PSU you chose but it will do the job just fine. Except for that small thing, I think you've done a good job. What SSD did you get?

One thing to note is that you might have to buy software to play Blu-Rays, and it's not always included with the reader.
 
Alright guys, I think I've finally obtained all the parts I need to build a computer.

i7-4790K (CPU)
Geforce GTX 760 (GPU)
Gigabyte Z97X-SOC FORCE (Motherboard)
16GB RAM
240GB SSD
600GB HDD
Corsair CS550M (PSU)
LG Blu-Ray Reader
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Case)

Planning to get a Heatsink within the coming days, but otherwise, am I set to build my own PC now? How good is this setup and is there any advice for what I've got?

I don't know about that PSU.
 
Looks super solid, I'm glad you decided to get a GTX 760 than a 770. The 770 is worse value, and buying the 760 gives you the chance to upgrade sooner. I wouldn't be the biggest fan of the PSU you chose but it will do the job just fine. Except for that small thing, I think you've done a good job. What SSD did you get?

One thing to note is that you might have to buy software to play Blu-Rays, and it's not always included with the reader.

This one.

I'll look into upgrading the PSU since I still have legroom for a little extra. I just went with something that seems reliable at 550W since I assumed I don't need to go up to 750W until I decide to get two GPUs. Thanks for the feedback guys.
 
No problem, Ubuntu is great for retrieving data when your OS won't boot.

Humm right now I'm losing my cool, my SSD can't be detected in the BIOS but my HDD is OK...

I tried in every SATA slot, with different cables, even switching the power connector in the PSU.

Somebody cursed me >.>
 
I didn't know about WS boards. Did a little research, and it's everything I want in a MOBO. So, I literally bought this the next day. Thanks, man. After using it for a week, it's the best board I've ever bought. Easily.

Z97 WS
Awesome! It's everything you really could need in a motherboard without anything you don't need. It just works, no tom foolery or weird things to crop up.
Really dense question, I previously purchased these from Overclockers:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-036-AR

I currently have a gift voucher on Amazon, and they only sell these (for a reasonable price):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006BMAA3S/

Is there any harm in having these mixed?
Nope. Timings, voltage, and rated speed are all the same. Just a different light, it looks like.
Alright guys, I think I've finally obtained all the parts I need to build a computer.

i7-4790K (CPU)
Geforce GTX 760 (GPU)
Gigabyte Z97X-SOC FORCE (Motherboard)
16GB RAM
240GB SSD
600GB HDD
Corsair CS550M (PSU)
LG Blu-Ray Reader
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Case)

Planning to get a Heatsink within the coming days, but otherwise, am I set to build my own PC now? How good is this setup and is there any advice for what I've got?
The PSU isn't the greatest. If possible, I'd return that for something else. If that's too much of a pain, it'll almost definitely be fine, but I would not recommend using any high end video card with it.
 
Thanks for the help. I had heard that Haswell-E was coming soon (and maybe that new Nvidia GPU). Initially I was just like "eh, screw it, I just want to do this," but I'm reconsidering now. Maybe I'll wait another month or two.

Figuring out when to jump in is always the hardest part. I'd been putting it off for a year or two already.

The reason I made the jump now was simply because my old computer bit the dust. Sure it was probably just the PSU, but the whole rig was getting pretty old and cranky (suspected an issue with the ram as well) so I just took the opportunity to upgrade. I didn't want to be without a desktop. Picked up all my parts one night and built the thing the next night.

I reused my GPU though. I'll probably wait for DX12 to upgrade that. Or wait for new DX12 cards to make DX11 cards really cheap, I dunno.
 
I have the opportunity to pick up a 6 month old r9 290 for $275. It's a nonreference card from gigabyte. It seems like a good deal, especially since the warranty is tied to the serial number, so it transfers with no work. I have no concerns for the history of the card since it belongs to my friend and he didn't mine with it.

This looks too good to pass up. Should I go for it? I'd be upgrading from a 6950.

great price, it is a huge upgrade from 6950 in modern games!
 
Bought everything in this PC from Novatech, never had a problem with them.

I'd say that if they say it's v2, it will be.

My BENQ XL2411z monitor just arrived. It's version 1. I'm afraid that my, aswell as your faith in Novatech was misplaced. I want this RMA'd and I want them to cover my shipping. This is a fucking joke, what is it with companys not checking what customers ask them? Did they really expect me to accept a v1 after fucking asking to MAKE SURE they sent me a v2?

The OP of this thread has just caused me no end of grief, honestly lol. I came here looking for a monitor, decided on the Benq and well.. Fuck sake. XL2411z monitors seem to be V1 EVERYWHERE in the UK. If you're over here, I would seriously not bother with it, it's not worth the hassle.
 
Oh okay then, you got it. I'll do it over then.

What would be a better PSU? Something from the same manufacturer but a higher model?
Seasonic G650 Modular is generally a great price.

My BENQ XL2411z monitor just arrived. It's version 1. I'm afraid that my, aswell as your faith in Novatech was misplaced. I want this RMA'd and I want them to cover my shipping. This is a fucking joke, what is it with companys not checking what customers ask them? Did they really expect me to accept a v1 after fucking asking to MAKE SURE they sent me a v2?

The OP of this thread has just caused me no end of grief, honestly lol. I came here looking for a monitor, decided on the Benq and well.. Fuck sake. XL2411z monitors seem to be V1 EVERYWHERE in the UK. If you're over here, I would seriously not bother with it, it's not worth the hassle.
Can you not update the firmware yourself? Can you not contact BenQ to help you update the firmware?
 
Seasonic G650 Modular is generally a great price.


Can you not update the firmware yourself? Can you not contact BenQ to help you update the firmware?

I appreciate that if it was an easy thing to update this would be no big deal at all.. Unfortuntely I have no idea what I'm doing with Linux, I'm not paying for shipping to Benq or for more equipment to do something which I was told by Novatech was already done. I was led to believe I was buying a v2 when I wasn't.

Hell even if the shipping was free, I bought this because I'm off next week and wanted to mess about with it, not sit around waiting for it to be shipped around.
 
what exactly is it you need Linux for? Ubuntu is every bit as easy to use as OS X and Windows these days. if you can operate a keyboard and use Google you can use it.
 
Just got myself the Asus RT-AC68U router. I have a PCE-AC68 wireless card coming in as well for my desktop PC. Unfortunately, I'm not in a situation where I can use ethernet. From some preliminary research, it seems as though wireless AC will provide better performance than powerline ethernet (especially since I have an old house and very noisy devices on the circuit such as a multitude of chargers, a TV, consoles, and a 14,000 BTU air conditioner).

Only thing that sucks...the PCE-AC68 comes with a magnetic antenna base to stick to your PC case. Only the thing is, I have a Lian-Li case, so that's not going to work out too well, since aluminum doesn't work with magnets. Does anyone know if you can connect the antennae directly to the card instead?
 
Humm right now I'm losing my cool, my SSD can't be detected in the BIOS but my HDD is OK...

I tried in every SATA slot, with different cables, even switching the power connector in the PSU.

Somebody cursed me >.>

Weird, I had a similar issue but Windows wouldn't detect my SSD. I had to use Ubuntu to find it. I'm not sure. Check the BIOS and make sure your SATA slots aren't in IDE mode.

Also, you said it was from a bad laptop? Have you considered the possibility that the SSD may be the faulty component from the laptop?
 
My BENQ XL2411z monitor just arrived. It's version 1. I'm afraid that my, aswell as your faith in Novatech was misplaced. I want this RMA'd and I want them to cover my shipping. This is a fucking joke, what is it with companys not checking what customers ask them? Did they really expect me to accept a v1 after fucking asking to MAKE SURE they sent me a v2?

The OP of this thread has just caused me no end of grief, honestly lol. I came here looking for a monitor, decided on the Benq and well.. Fuck sake. XL2411z monitors seem to be V1 EVERYWHERE in the UK. If you're over here, I would seriously not bother with it, it's not worth the hassle.

Damn, that sucks. I'm pretty sure they cover shipping if an item was sent in error, which it is, but it's still a PITA though.
 
Guys, would this be enough to run most games on 1080p (high settings, not sure if Ultra is doable) with at least locked 30 fps?

MOB: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
CPU: i7 2600K, OC'd @ 3,8ghz, with Zalman 10x cooler
GPU: MSI GTX 580 twin frozr II 1,5GB oc edition
RAM: Kingston HyperX 12GB Kit (3x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR3
SSD: OCZ vertex 3, 240gb
POW: OCZ zx series 1250w
 
Humm right now I'm losing my cool, my SSD can't be detected in the BIOS but my HDD is OK...

I tried in every SATA slot, with different cables, even switching the power connector in the PSU.

Somebody cursed me >.>
Most likely, it's a bad SSD.

Weird, I had a similar issue but Windows wouldn't detect my SSD. I had to use Ubuntu to find it. I'm not sure. Check the BIOS and make sure your SATA slots aren't in IDE mode.
Can you see the SSD in Windows Disk Management?
 
Guys, would this be enough to run most games on 1080p (high settings, not sure if Ultra is doable) with at least locked 30 fps?

MOB: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
CPU: i7 2600K, OC'd @ 3,8ghz, with Zalman 10x cooler
GPU: MSI GTX 580 twin frozr II 1,5GB oc edition
RAM: Kingston HyperX 12GB Kit (3x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR3
SSD: OCZ vertex 3, 240gb
POW: OCZ zx series 1250w
It's a solid build but the 580 is starting to show its age now. A new video card and that would be a top build. PSU in that is crazy but I am guessing this is a used build. Most games should be able to hold 30 at 1080p, in fact most will hold 60.
 
Hey guys, I hadn't really thought about building a hackintosh. However, I'm starting to look into it just because of how much I prefer the Mac OS. This is the build I'm looking to buy next month as a gaming pc/video editing workstation. What would I need to change to make it compatible as a hackintosh?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.13 @ Newegg)
Total: $1166.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-15 14:48 EDT-0400

Also, if you guys have any thoughts on this build in general feel free to share. I know I've posted it here before though.
 
Most likely, it's a bad SSD.


Can you see the SSD in Windows Disk Management?

My problem was corrected via Ubuntu, it works in Windows now. It wasn't showing in Windows Disk Management when I first got it though. I called Intel because I thought I'd have to RMA, it wasn't showing as having any firmware installed when using their bootable updater. Their customer support got me to create a bootable Ubuntu flash drive and look for it that way. I chose "do something else" and assigned a drive letter to it. When I rebooted, Windows was able to find it. My situation was slightly different as i wasn't trying to recover any data on it.
 
Weird, I had a similar issue but Windows wouldn't detect my SSD. I had to use Ubuntu to find it. I'm not sure. Check the BIOS and make sure your SATA slots aren't in IDE mode.

Also, you said it was from a bad laptop? Have you considered the possibility that the SSD may be the faulty component from the laptop?

Hmmm the BIOS message was related to the Ethernet slot (trying to boot from server, don't ask me why) so I guessed it was a MB after few hours spend on google/forums (confirmed).

SSD is a V300 from Kingston 128go, mostly bought to boost my 2 years old Medion laptop (i7-2630qm/8go/gtx 555m 2gb RIP), never had issues with the SSD until now.


Most likely, it's a bad SSD.


Can you see the SSD in Windows Disk Management?

Maybe, s#it happens >.>
Nah I don't have access to Windows (new built) that's why I'm looking into the BIOS and Ubuntu live.
 
Hey guys, I hadn't really thought about building a hackintosh. However, I'm starting to look into it just because of how much I prefer the Mac OS. This is the build I'm looking to buy next month as a gaming pc/video editing workstation. What would I need to change to make it compatible as a hackintosh?
Kennah is the resident expert on hackintosh, I'm sure he'll throw in his opinion soon.
 
Damn, that sucks. I'm pretty sure they cover shipping if an item was sent in error, which it is, but it's still a PITA though.

Yeah I'm eager to see what they suggest when they get back to me. I mean I just want a damn monitor lol if they sub it for a v2 one, fine, hell I'd be happy if they sorted out a free way of getting it to benq to upgrade it, but I'm dead set against paying for what is essentially, their fuck up here.
 
Hey guys, I hadn't really thought about building a hackintosh. However, I'm starting to look into it just because of how much I prefer the Mac OS. This is the build I'm looking to buy next month as a gaming pc/video editing workstation. What would I need to change to make it compatible as a hackintosh?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.13 @ Newegg)
Total: $1166.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-15 14:48 EDT-0400

Also, if you guys have any thoughts on this build in general feel free to share. I know I've posted it here before though.

You want a gigabyte motherboard. everything else looks ok.

tonymacx86.com is the best resource I've found. feel free to pm me with questions.
 
So I've decided to go with powerline adapters for my internet needs. Any recommendations? Can they be used with an ethernet switch?

I've been doing a bit of research today.

You may want to wait for AV2 1200 powerline kits which should be coming out within about a month.

Otherwise, get a 600mbps kit, but make sure it has a gigabit port. No point in getting 500+ mbps if you've got a 100mbps port.
 
Looking for some advice and guidance on the following for a new PC which will last a few years.

Case - Carbide Air 540
PSU - Corsair Professional Series AX860i 
Cooler - Corsair Hydro Series H100i or should i go for the H105 or H110
MoBo - ASUS Maximus VII Ranger
CPU - Intel Core i7 4770K
Memory - Corsair 16GB DDR3 2133MHz Vengeance Performance Memory
GPU - Gainward GTX 770 Phantom 4GB pci eXPRESS Nvidia Graphics Card
SSD - Crucial MX 100 (512gb)

d

So I have had a look at the replies so far and I can look to use the 4790k processor and jump up to the 780 GPU but the consensus was the PSU is not appropriate what would be more appropriate here - considering in six months or so i might buy another GPU
 
I've been doing a bit of research today.

You may want to wait for AV2 1200 powerline kits which should be coming out within about a month.

Otherwise, get a 600mbps kit, but make sure it has a gigabit port. No point in getting 500+ mbps if you've got a 100mbps port.

I need to get one now preferably so I'll have to pass on the AV2. I found these on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA6010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00IBPLI48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408133905&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapter+600mbps
http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Powerline-Gigabit-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00D7GF6NA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408134063&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+adapter+600mbps
Which one would you go for?
 
So I have had a look at the replies so far and I can look to use the 4790k processor and jump up to the 780 GPU but the consensus was the PSU is not appropriate what would be more appropriate here - considering in six months or so i might buy another GPU

That PSU is great. It should be able to handle two 780s no problem. But for that price....

I personally own the EVGA G2 850w. And also what I'd recommend. You're gonna lose Platinum status but get Gold and a 10, yes TEN, year warranty.. It's also $80 cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018
 
So I have had a look at the replies so far and I can look to use the 4790k processor and jump up to the 780 GPU but the consensus was the PSU is not appropriate what would be more appropriate here - considering in six months or so i might buy another GPU
Here's what you do.

1) Get a less expensive 650W PSU if you aren't ever planning for SLI (and you really have to be willing to do all those things people negatively associate with PC gaming for it to work all of the time). EVGA G2, Seasonic X660, Seasonic G650, Corsair RM650, CoolerMaster VM650. Those are all the absolute best of the best.
2) Get a less expensive motherboard like the Gigabyte Z97 UD3H, or something else from the OP. Unless you specifically know why you are getting the Ranger, it's not worth it.
3) Get 1600MHz memory. There's zero benefit to gaming with increased memory speed. It's only worth it if you have a specific application that is going to use that increased bandwidth.
4) That saves you ~$200, which you then use to buy the best single GPU available, and a sound card (if you use headphones)
5) And yeah, go with the 4790K.
 
I have the opportunity to pick up a 6 month old r9 290 for $275. It's a nonreference card from gigabyte. It seems like a good deal, especially since the warranty is tied to the serial number, so it transfers with no work. I have no concerns for the history of the card since it belongs to my friend and he didn't mine with it.

This looks too good to pass up. Should I go for it? I'd be upgrading from a 6950.

I pulled the trigger.

I have 4 GB of ram. Any real reason to go to 8?
 
I'm a console gamer currently trying to decide between a PS4 and a gaming PC and I have a few questions (actually quite a lot!) Hopefully this is the right thread for these questions, if not feel free to point me in the right direction. Apologies if a lot of these have been answered before.

For me personally, the negatives of switching to PC (missing console exclusive titles (especially Sony's 1st party studios), setting up graphics options etc) are only worth it if I can get graphics and performance much greater than the PS4. Are there any good, high quality (not heavily compressed Youtube videos) comparisons of PS4 vs max settings PC games (in 1080p and 60fps where appropriate) to see the difference? I found this comparison for Battlefield 4: http://www.perfecthandproductions.com/battlefield-4-pc-and-ps4-graphics-comparison/ and the difference didn't seem that huge, but I'm only watching on a 1366x768 resolution laptop with a poor quality screen. I'll have access to a 1080p TV this weekend though, so any high quality videos I can play on my PS3 would be appreciated. Failing that, good screenshot comparisons are useful too.

In order to get these kinds of settings in 1080p (and preferably 60fps), do I need to be looking at the really high-end graphics cards/CPUs or are they overkill? So far I've looked at things like the i7-4790K processor and GTX 780 Ti GPU, are these about what I'd need, way more than required or not enough? If they are suitable, how long will they stay good enough (approximately)? The kinds of builds I've been looking at have been costing around £1200 (for example this: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/billsmugs/saved/thmmP6 which I put together with little to no research as a very rough cost estimate more than anything. I don't really know how to pick fans, PSUs, motherboards etc). What would be the (again I'm just looking for a rough estimate) minimum spend to get a PC (in the UK) that would be able to outperform the PS4 on multiplatform titles by at least a small margin for the next 5 years, say?

In terms of the ease of building a PC from parts, is it something that's easy to get wrong and cause damage to the components? Do CPUs and GPUs come with fans and heatsinks etc, or do you always need to buy them separately? What sort of failure rates do parts have and if one component breaks will it take everything else with it? If I mess up the cooling will modern components turn themselves off before damage occurs or will they just fry? How do I know when to hold off on buying parts to wait for new models or designs?

Moving on to the actual games, how common is it that a "big" non-exclusive title skips the PC (like GTAV or Red Dead Redemption for example)? Are Japanese games still rare to find on PC, or are they becoming more common? How many games release without controller support (where it would work, obviously, so not including RTS games etc)? Will I be at a huge disadvantage in multiplayer if I use a controller? (I play Titanfall on my laptop with a controller (and at 25-40fps for a further disadvantage) and don't seem to do too badly, but is that just that Titanfall is designed to be controller friendly in ways that other PC games are not?)

When people talk about "bad ports" of console games, what does that mean? Would performance be worse than the console versions, the same or still better? How common are such bad ports and are they often known about in advance or is it just a nasty shock for day one buyers?

I'm aware that's a lot of questions in one post, sorry! If you can help with any single query, or provide a link to somewhere that can explain a certain section then please do so, I'm not expecting anyone to answer everything. I'm mostly looking into this as a preliminary weighing of options so I'm not looking for detailed advice on specific parts or configurations, but any general tips are much appreciated.
 
Play the system you want the games on.

If you're looking to a PC to completely replace your console experience, and want console type games without experiencing the insane number of PC exclusives, then I think you're setting yourself up for disappointment.

Basically, the games that end up not getting ported are the big AAA action/adventure games which are already obviously exclusive (Bloodborne, TLOU, Uncharted, Tomb Raider, etc), some Rockstar games, and then lots of Japanese games.

Ports or multiplats always work with a controller. A lot of PC games don't work well with a controller, because they're designed for a mouse and keyboard (arena shooters, Tribes, strategy games, RTS, tons of random indies, cRPGs.

The 780Ti and a 4790K are capable of pushing most games at 1080p/120 FPS on a 120Hz monitor (not to be confused with a 120Hz TV, which isn't 120Hz at all). It could also do 1440p at 60Hz for almost all games on "High".

Bad ports typically mean iffy performance and a shitty UI that wasn't retooled for PC inputs.

There's no videos to accurately show the difference in graphics settings.

Check out the OP, as that will answer most of the rest of your questions.

but, tl;dr: Don't do an either/or if you want PS4 games with "higher settings", as you'll end up missing out on games that you enjoy. If you want to get a PC, see it as that PLUS having access to a backlog of games that predates Sony as a console manufacturer. Go into it with an open mind, and you'll end up finding a lot of games to enjoy.

As a PC gamer since the early 90s, the first time I went all in with a console was the PS3. Demons Souls, Valkyria Chronicles, and Katamari were eye opening experiences for me that I wouldn't have been able to play otherwise.
 
It doesnt have to be an either or thing. Im sure most of us have pc and console. i had a 360 since the Falcon model was released and have ps3 and wii now. gonna pick up a wii u next.year sometime too. all while having a fairly modern pc.
 
If I go down the PC route I'll almost certainly pick up a PS4 at some point for the "must-play" exclusives, but probably not for several years. I'm a bit disappointed with the PS4 to be honest, due to relatively low specs, massively reduced OS features compared to PS3 and Vita, paid multiplayer and no backwards compatibility. I'm also a bit annoyed at Sony for their treatment of the Vita, so it seemed like a good time to consider other options.

I'm definitely open to PC exclusive genres and titles (particularly strategy type games) and I like the idea of being able to run emulators, so I'm not seeing it solely as an upgraded console. I'm not totally new to PC gaming either (I have over a hundred games on Steam, mostly through Humble Bundles), but so far it's only been on my (~£400 a couple of years ago) laptop. If I bought a PS4 I'd just stick with that laptop, maybe upgrade to a mid range pre-built desktop in a year or so, whereas if I went for the PC I'd want to get something that will let me get the most out of what the PC can offer as a platform, a big part of which (for me) is the improved graphics/visual effects.
 
Do you guys know of any very DDR3 ram sticks that both overclock pretty well, are affordable and are very slim? my noctua D15 cant get outside fan on the heatsink because my ram are too tall;(
 
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