"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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With the hardware you have, you honestly do not need G-Sync at 1080p. It's most helpful at 30-70 FPS, and becomes mostly useless once you get up into the 90 range. At that point, the high refresh is going to make tearing essentially unnoticeable, and the illusion of motion will be much more superior.

I'd advise the BenQ XL2411Z or VG248QE.

It's perfectly conceivable that there will be settings on upcoming games like Arkham Knight or The Witcher 3 that will tank my framerate to the 40s. Not just stuff like Ubserampling or supersampling either.

If there are any higher quality 1080p Gsync displays I'm all ears. But I'm planning on going 1080p -> 4k (mainly for scaling concerns, some stuff particularly 2D assets and UI elements in a lot of games I play are designed for 1080p, or are more optimally displayed at 1080p and don't scale well at higher res) and I don't think I'm ready for 4k, nor do I really want to pay out the nose for a 4k monitor at the moment.
 
So my dad is looking at buying a new prebuilt machine. I don't know exactly what he has now, but it has an amd processor and 4gb of ram. He says after a few hours of multitasking (general purpose apps, microsoft office, internet browser, kindle, but probably having 6-8 open at a time) it really starts to chug.

But he knows I've built all my own computers for several years and figured he'd check to see if I can build anything better. I don't really pay attention to parts until I'm getting ready to build again, so I have absolutely no idea what is doable right now. Below is my checklist

Your Current Specs: A prebuilt PC with an amd processor and 4gb RAM. I feel like the 4 gb RAM probably dates it to maybe 2008ish?
Budget: The prebuilt he is looking at is $600ish in the US. So in that range or cheaper
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 2-3? No gaming at all other than hearts and such. But he is a big multitasker with multiple office programs open, a few browsers, and other misc. programs but nothing inherently intensive i.e. no video encoding, 3d modeling, etc.
Monitor Resolution: He already has two monitors, I assume they're around 1200p, but let's say even 2560 but again no gaming.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: No gaming. But needs to be be able to multitask without any significant slow down and needing to rebooted everyday
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nothing internal, but monitors, keyboard/mice etc. all taken care of.
When will you build?: Sometime in the next month.
Will you be overclocking?: Definitely no

Form factor is not an issue. It's going under a desk and won't be regularly moved, so big or small it's fine. It'd be nice if it didn't sound like a jet taking off though.

Looking through the builds in the OP, I'm thinking since he really doesn't need much int he way of video card (although it should be capable of hd video), could I drop the videocard completely and use a processor with video capabilities? I've never done that before but then I could use the money to get 16gb ram and a decent sized ssd. Both of those are things I think would greatly improve his experience. So I'm thinking the "good" build with i5, dropping the video card, and getting 16gb ram and the bigger ssd?
 
Your instincts are correct.

Also no reason to not go small form factor. My grandmas computer is a super small wall mounted case
with an amd Apu
 
Okay, last question! Thanks for the help so far

So right now I have dual channel DDR3-1600, as this is what my CPU supports. Does that means that's ALL it supports? Like DDR3-1600+ quad channel isn't in the cards?
 
It's a $150 gap between good value intel processors. The Pentium Anniversary is an incredible chip. Will go into the record books along side the Celeron 300, Q6600 and 2500k
I dunno about that. The 'i3' edition of it if Intel actually had competition could join them. The possibility if the lower end boards being OC locked out and needing a Z97 sucks.
 
Okay, last question! Thanks for the help so far

So right now I have dual channel DDR3-1600, as this is what my CPU supports. Does that means that's ALL it supports? Like DDR3-1600+ quad channel isn't in the cards?
Yep. You only need quad channel if you are doing super high end production/database stuff anyway.
I dunno about that. The 'i3' edition of it if Intel actually had competition could join them. The possibility if the lower end boards being OC locked out and needing a Z97 sucks.
I tend to worry more about 'what is' than 'what could be'. Certainly things could be better. But the anniversary is a step in the right direction at least.
 
It's perfectly conceivable that there will be settings on upcoming games like Arkham Knight or The Witcher 3 that will tank my framerate to the 40s. Not just stuff like Ubserampling or supersampling either.

If there are any higher quality 1080p Gsync displays I'm all ears. But I'm planning on going 1080p -> 4k (mainly for scaling concerns, some stuff particularly 2D assets and UI elements in a lot of games I play are designed for 1080p, or are more optimally displayed at 1080p and don't scale well at higher res) and I don't think I'm ready for 4k, nor do I really want to pay out the nose for a 4k monitor at the moment.
There aren't any other G-Sync monitors ATM, unless you are willing to mod the VG248QE.
 
core i5 4460 - $190
Biostar Micro ATX DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 Motherboards HI-FI B85S3+ - $64
Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3 1600 MT/s (PC3-12800) CL9 @1.5V UDIMM 240-Pin Memory BLS2KIT8G3D1609DS1S00 - $145
Crucial MX100 256GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT256MX100SSD1 - $111
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - WD10EZEX - $57.24
Antec VP-450 450 Watt Energy Star Certified Power Supply $38
Rosewill Micro-ATX Mini Tower Computer Case with Dual USB 3.0, Dual Fans and 12.5-Inch Card LINE-M Black - $37.25
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black) $22.15

What do you guys think for my dad? All chosen quickly on Amazon. See my post above, but again, just for general computer use including having a lot of office programs open, browsers, driving two monitors, etc.

For reference, here are two computers he is thinking about buying prebuilt that the above build should be compared to
http://www.costco.com/Cyberpower-PC-Desktop-|-Intel-Core-i7.product.100125590.html
http://www.costco.com/Dell-XPS-8700-Desktop-|-Intel-Core-i7-|-1GB-Graphics.product.100120253.html
 
Other than the lack of SSD, the two prebuilts are better than what you specced out. Nothing wrong with either of them if games aren't involved.
 
I went through hell and back trying to get this damn thing to stop crashing, and it turns out it was a faulty ram stick. One works, the other crashes my shit. Has anyone had to send back ram? I'm wondering if I can keep this one ram installed until replacement ram gets here so I'm not out of a computer for a week.
 
Other than the lack of SSD, the two prebuilts are better than what you specced out. Nothing wrong with either of them if games aren't involved.

I just feel like the money going into the better CPU and GPU are unnecessary and are better spent on ram and ssd.
 
I just feel like the money going into the better CPU and GPU are unnecessary and are better spent on ram and ssd.
Neither of them have a gpu. And all the builds have 16 gigs of ram.

But yeah for his needs the i7 is likely un necessary. Just being objective.
 
I'm looking into upgrading my monitor, which is a Samsung SyncMaster 933HD plus. I'm looking at an ASUS VS239H-P or a BenQ RL2455HM primarily. Which one is better?

Also another important thing to note is that I would also like to play my Wii U on it --I recently found out about it being limited RGB. The BenQ seems to have a setting for limited/full RGB toggle, but I couldn't find any for the Asus looking at the manual online.

Basically my main question is: do Asus monitors have an option for limited RGB? Thanks!
 
Neither of them have a gpu. And all the builds have 16 gigs of ram.

But yeah for his needs the i7 is likely un necessary. Just being objective.

The second one has a gt 720? Is that still just on the CPU? And it only has 12gb. The first one does seem more suited to non gamer but its more expensive because of the ram upgrade I presume.

Yah,I sent him my list saying we could probably save a little more if we deal hunt,but neither of the others are bad as long as he adds an ssd.

I just can't Imagine him ever needing that i7.
 
Question about internet speed.

Got me the 50mb package, but it's not running nearly as fast and always jumping around.

Could there be anyway my pc causes the slowdown and not the wiring or on the isps end?
 
Question about internet speed.

Got me the 50mb package, but it's not running nearly as fast and always jumping around.

Could there be anyway my pc causes the slowdown and not the wiring or on the isps end?
Could be settings on your network device, but I dunno what your network setup is. If you're using WiFi, it could be interference from physical objects that causing some of the problems.
 
Was at Micro Center tonight and stumbled upon these...

xxab.jpg

wxab.jpg

sxab.jpg


The cashier called his manager over to double check the prices. Granted, I know these aren't the newest boards, but I'm still going to make some damn good builds.

Oh, and there are no missing parts.

I now have undeniable proof that I was born in the wrong fucking side of the world.
 
Do I need to open ports on my router and in Windows Firewall?

edit: for non-PC stuff like Xbox Live and PS Vita remote play
No.
Doubtful there's anyone that does it for Australia.
FWIW, it's really easy to do. If you can build a PC, you can do this.
To each his own, but those are ugly as hell.
Yeah, not my cup of tea either, but they're damn fine cases with an excellent design. So good, Corsair basically straight jacked it for the Air 240, possibly even the Air 540. There's a few killer projects done with their cases that I think look fantastic. Parvum Titanfall being the major one.

 
Hey guys, I've been having some growing pains with my Asus 290X, when I'm gaming, I'm not having any issues. But while my computer is idle, or while I'm doing anything outside of gaming, like watching videos or watching videos on youtube, my computer keeps crashing.

I get "Display driver has stopped working" sometimes where it'll freeze, and turn black and the mouse still works and then the windows comes back, other times I just get a black screen, and sometimes the whole thing just locks up completely. I've tried Cata Drivers 14.3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. I've tried googling for solutions, but answers are all over the place.

I wasn't having any of these issues before.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009 is my power supply.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...m_re=R9290X-DC2OC-4GD5-_-14-121-840-_-Product is my card

Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
The second one has a gt 720? Is that still just on the CPU? And it only has 12gb. The first one does seem more suited to non gamer but its more expensive because of the ram upgrade I presume.

Yah,I sent him my list saying we could probably save a little more if we deal hunt,but neither of the others are bad as long as he adds an ssd.

I just can't Imagine him ever needing that i7.

the 2nd one seems ok
12GB already more than enough for "general computing"
but of course no SSD. if you prefer "fast" loading time, add an SSD or build your spec instead.

you are correct, i7 vs i5 won't makes any difference in general everyday use

I now have undeniable proof that I was born in the wrong fucking side of the world.

LOL my thought exactly
 
FWIW, it's really easy to do. If you can build a PC, you can do this.

I guess I'll look into it, but idk how easy it is to get the kits in aus. May actually be easier and cheaper to import a premade one from America.

I wonder if those monitors just take a standard jug plug or if I'd need some kind of power conversion...
 
So what kind of processors can use RAM above 1600? Every Intel one I look at seems to cap at DDR3-1600 dual channel
Anything above 1333 is an overclock. What you are able to achieve over that is a combination of the IMC quality on the processor and the binning of the memory chips.

In general, the IMC's ability to handle higher speeds is better with each generation (Sandy<Ivy<Haswell).

The memory that you buy doesn't run at the speed it is listed at. It runs as the speed the IMC is set for. What the speed ratings on memory do tell you is that they have been internally tested and binned to run at that advertised speed with a given processor. YMMV on what speed you do get out of it, but it is almost guaranteed to work at that speed with a modern processor using XMP (Intel Extreme Memory Profile). If you just put the sticks in your system, they will simply run at 1333MHz, regardless of their rating.

I hope that all makes sense.

*edit* and to directly answer your question, almost all of them can. Motherboards play a part in this as well though.

Also, unless you do some specific tasks that require high speed memory, then having high speed memory is basically meaningless in terms of gaming performance.
 
Regarding the SSD, It may boot, but it probably won't. If possible, try booting into recovery mode to see if Windows can automatically update the registry. If not, you'll need to format and reinstall.

If you need to save anything that's on it, create an Ubuntu boot disc or flash drive and run from disc/flash drive instead of installing. Move anything you need to save to an external.

Oh thanks you dude, that is helping me a lot!!
I've already download Ubuntu, just have to create a bootable USB key and here we go.

Just have to wait until my working day end...
 
Anything above 1333 is an overclock. What you are able to achieve over that is a combination of the IMC quality on the processor and the binning of the memory chips.

In general, the IMC's ability to handle higher speeds is better with each generation (Sandy<Ivy<Haswell).

The memory that you buy doesn't run at the speed it is listed at. It runs as the speed the IMC is set for. What the speed ratings on memory do tell you is that they have been internally tested and binned to run at that advertised speed with a given processor. YMMV on what speed you do get out of it, but it is almost guaranteed to work at that speed with a modern processor using XMP (Intel Extreme Memory Profile). If you just put the sticks in your system, they will simply run at 1333MHz, regardless of their rating.

I hope that all makes sense.

So even though my processor spec sheet says DDR3 at 1600MHz, I can buy RAM that's tested at higher than that and get the benefits of the extra speed?

I know when I put in my 1600Mhz sticks they defaulted to 1333. What happens if I OC them even higher instead of buying new sticks rated higher?

edit: just saw your edit. If 8 gigs at 1600Mhz and a low CAS latency does me fine, I'll just stick with that. Saves me money anyway
 
Can I ask a question, I have a mate selling his PC and is looking for $500 AUD. Is this worth the price (excuse my lack of PC knowledge).

Specs:
• Intel Core i5 3rd Gen OC 3300
• Asus SLI Motherboard
• 8 GB DDR3 Memory
• 2 x NVidia GTX 460s Graphics Cards running SLI
• DVD Optical Drive
• 3 x HDD (Total of 2TB space)
 
What version of the R9 280X from sapphire is best, Dual-X, Vapor-X or Toxic? Or would you recommend another brand?

Toxic is the best, but it all depends on price

Sapphire are a good brand. You'll not go wrong with them. ASUS, MSI, Club3D and more all have good cards too. Even someone like XFX aren't too bad, all depends on what it'll cost.
 
Toxic is the best, but it all depends on price
The new(er) tri-fan Vapor-X released earlier this year is better than the Toxic both in terms of noise and temps, albeit clocked slightly lower by default. Only thing it's really lacking in comparison is a backplate.
 
I can buy the Vapor-X for 299 euros, and the Toxic for 306 euros. While the Dual-X is 259 euros. I have the money for them, but the difference in price between the Dual-X and the others is quite big.
 
The new(er) tri-fan Vapor-X released earlier this year is better than the Toxic both in terms of noise and temps, albeit clocked slightly lower by default. Only thing it's really lacking in comparison is a backplate.

Backplates are nice though. Cheers, I hadn't looked at the Vapor-X for a while.

I did have a 5770 Vapor-X a few years ago, was a nice little workhorse.

My MX100 just came in - do I need to purchase some sort of HDD case for it so it can slide into my case's HDD bay?

You can stick it wherever you want, even tape it to the back of the motherboard tray.

Most modern cases have a slot for them though.
 
Hey guys, a few weeks I asked you for some advice (see link for specifics) about whether or not to buy a certain second-hand rig, and your answers have been very helpful. I've decided not to buy that specific rig, but I did look at other second-hand systems. I'm a little low on funds now, so I can't build a high-end rig from scratch. And honestly, I don't want to put that much time and dedication into building a decent/medium-range rig, so I'd much rather buy something off someone for the time being until I've graduated.

Any how, I've got two systems I'm looking at and I'd like to ask you guys for advice again if that's possible. My wishes are pretty much the same as last time, being able to play most (or all) games that have released at least before December 2013 on 1080p with 30 fps locked (the more the merrier, of course).

The first one:

MOB: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
CPU: i7 2600K, apparently OC'd @ 3,8ghz with Zalman 10x cooler
GPU: MSI GTX 580 twin frozr II 1,5GB oc edition
RAM: Kingston HyperX 12GB Kit (3x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR3
SSD: ocz vertex 3, 240gb
POW: ocz zx series 1250w
MON: a Phillips full HD 60Hz monitor, not sure about the specific model and specs

Price: € 650

The second one:

MOB: Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3+
CPU: i5 2500K with Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B cooling
RAM: Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 - 8GB
GPU: Sapphire HD7950 3GB OC
SSD: Samsung 840 Series MZ-7TD120 - 120 GB
POW: XFX 550W Pro
MON: none, so I'd have to buy it separately

Price: € 500
 
I have the opportunity to pick up a 6 month old r9 290 for $275. It's a nonreference card from gigabyte. It seems like a good deal, especially since the warranty is tied to the serial number, so it transfers with no work. I have no concerns for the history of the card since it belongs to my friend and he didn't mine with it.

This looks too good to pass up. Should I go for it? I'd be upgrading from a 6950.
 
I can buy the Vapor-X for 299 euros, and the Toxic for 306 euros. While the Dual-X is 259 euros. I have the money for them, but the difference in price between the Dual-X and the others is quite big.

Dual-X is only 2 fans (as the name implies) while the others have 3 fans, plus slightly better electronics, etc. You're gonna be fine with the Dual-X, but if you're really interested in getting the best OC possible, get one of the others.

I have the opportunity to pick up a 6 month old r9 290 for $275. It's a nonreference card from gigabyte. It seems like a good deal, especially since the warranty is tied to the serial number, so it transfers with no work. I have no concerns for the history of the card since it belongs to my friend and he didn't mine with it.

This looks too good to pass up. Should I go for it? I'd be upgrading from a 6950.

Absolutely go for it IMO. So many good deals on used R9 cards (I got a 290x for $300).
 
I have the opportunity to pick up a 6 month old r9 290 for $275. It's a nonreference card from gigabyte. It seems like a good deal, especially since the warranty is tied to the serial number, so it transfers with no work. I have no concerns for the history of the card since it belongs to my friend and he didn't mine with it.

This looks too good to pass up. Should I go for it? I'd be upgrading from a 6950.

I did the same thing but with a msi non reference 290 and it has been fantastic. I would absolutely jump on it as I doubt you will be able to get anything for that price/performance.
 
Hey guys, I've been having some growing pains with my Asus 290X, when I'm gaming, I'm not having any issues. But while my computer is idle, or while I'm doing anything outside of gaming, like watching videos or watching videos on youtube, my computer keeps crashing.

I get "Display driver has stopped working" sometimes where it'll freeze, and turn black and the mouse still works and then the windows comes back, other times I just get a black screen, and sometimes the whole thing just locks up completely. I've tried Cata Drivers 14.3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. I've tried googling for solutions, but answers are all over the place.

I wasn't having any of these issues before.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009 is my power supply.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...m_re=R9290X-DC2OC-4GD5-_-14-121-840-_-Product is my card

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Guess I'll just RMA it. -_-
 
Yeah, I think I've gotten to this point as well. I wish there was a WS class board in the mATX form factor. To get any decent set of features with mATX, I seemingly always have to go with the "gamer" board.
I didn't know about WS boards. Did a little research, and it's everything I want in a MOBO. So, I literally bought this the next day. Thanks, man. After using it for a week, it's the best board I've ever bought. Easily.

Z97 WS
photo15lsyt.jpg
 
Alright guys, I think I've finally obtained all the parts I need to build a computer.

i7-4790K (CPU)
Geforce GTX 760 (GPU)
Gigabyte Z97X-SOC FORCE (Motherboard)
16GB RAM
240GB SSD
600GB HDD
Corsair CS550M (PSU)
LG Blu-Ray Reader
Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Case)

Planning to get a Heatsink within the coming days, but otherwise, am I set to build my own PC now? How good is this setup and is there any advice for what I've got?
 
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