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[Kinsei]

HWMonitor, Realtemp, Coretemp.

Thanks!

 

[sammyCYBORG]

I am guessing a decrease of a few fps.

As for lower clock, it could be wear and tear. It could also be your old setup didn't push the card as much as your new CPU/MB setup, so maybe, the factory overclock was never 100% stable at the speed. I am seen that happen to a few people.

Ah I see. Well, good to know I don't need to scrap the card just yet. It's a beast of a card so a few FPS less I can live with

Thanks very much again!

 

[Drama Zed Nod]

Yeah. Just saw it from a YouTube video. It's blue so USB3. Is there another cable for case front panel USB3 connection?

You should be able to do that in the Catalyst Control Center in the Overclocking section.

There is a USB3 connector on the control panel on top of the case which doesn't work, obviously because i have no idea how to connect that cable : / I didn't see an obvious way of connecting the two ;(

 

[knitoe]

There is a USB3 connector on the control panel on top of the case which doesn't work, obviously because i have no idea how to connect that cable : / I didn't see an obvious way of connecting the two ;(

You can buy USB3 header adapter to connect on the MB inside, or if long enough, run the cable through the back of your case / MB and connect it to one of the USB3 on the outside.

 

[Zabojnik]

Think she's a true 256.

Hm, okay, so now I'm torn between these two ...

Crucial MX100 256GB
Read Average 278.56 MB/s
Read Sequential 440.79 MB/s
Write Average 229.67 MB/s
Write Sequential 306.26 MB/s

Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
Read Average 358.19 MB/s
Read Sequential 504.43 MB/s
Write Average 288.52 MB/s
Write Sequential 391.49 MB/s

On paper at least the the 840 EVO seems quite a bit faster all across. Not sure how well it translates into real world use, but the price difference is minimal - 85€ for the Crucial, less than 100€ for the Samsung - so I'm Liverpooling leaning towards the Samsung. Yay?

 

[kharma45]

Hm, okay, so now I'm torn between these two ...

Crucial MX100 256GB
Read Average 278.56 MB/s
Read Sequential 440.79 MB/s
Write Average 229.67 MB/s
Write Sequential 306.26 MB/s

Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
Read Average 358.19 MB/s
Read Sequential 504.43 MB/s
Write Average 288.52 MB/s
Write Sequential 391.49 MB/s

On paper at least the the 840 EVO seems quite a bit faster all across. Not sure how well it translates into real world use, but the price difference is minimal - 85€ for the Crucial, less than 100€ for the Samsung - so I'm Liverpooling leaning towards the Samsung. Yay?

I'd go for the cheaper Crucial. You'll not notice the speed differences in real life usage.

 

[Hanzou]

Remember when 8gb of ram was had for under $30 after rebates? Good times.

 

[The Llama]

I'd go for the cheaper Crucial. You'll not notice the speed differences in real life usage.

This. Unless you have special needs for a super fast SSD, even a "slow" SSD is more than enough for gaming.

 

[knitoe]

If prices are close, I would go with the Samsung. I notice, from posters, Crucial's SSD seems to have more issues.

 

[Zabojnik]

I'd go for the cheaper Crucial. You'll not notice the speed differences in real life usage.

This. Unless you have special needs for a super fast SSD, even a "slow" SSD is more than enough for gaming.

If prices are close, I would go with the Samsung. I notice, from posters, Crucial's SSD seems to have more issues.

Mmmm. I'll see if I can haggle down the Samsung to Crucial price with my superior haggling skillz. In the end, I guess it doesn't really matter. Danke.

 

[Drama Zed Nod]

You can buy USB3 header adapter to connect on the MB inside, or if long enough, run the cable through the back of your case / MB and connect it to one of the USB3 on the outside.

Found this vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiDEe5ZZcJM
at around 19:20 he gives the solution.
Basically... you run that fucking cable through the back and plug it in a usb slot on the mobo. That activates the USB3.0 slot on the top of the case. That surely isn't standard??!

 

[Big Chungus]

Think she's a true 256.



Budget? Solely office use like Web browsing, word, Excel etc?

$400 cdn,

Yeah just office use like word, excel, browsing, sometimes youtube/netflix videos.

Edit: or I could upgrade her current office pc, the inside is pretty clean but it is prety old, she bought it in 2006.

 

[knitoe]

Found this vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiDEe5ZZcJM
at around 19:20 he gives the solution.
Basically... you run that fucking cable through the back and plug it in a usb slot on the mobo. That activates the USB3.0 slot on the top of the case. That surely isn't standard??!

In that video, that's what I suggest in 2nd part. If you want to internal (1st part), you a USB3 header adapter. Before buying, make sure your MB has a connector for the female head. I am surprise it didn't come with the case.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PODI1W/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[Bucket-o-roadkill]

Anyone here had a 128gb Crucial M4 die on them? My boot drive did just that last week. One minute browsing the web fine, the next, not responding, black screen with a cursor and no way to do anything other than a hard reset. The bios couldn't detect it and as far as I can tell, it's dead...

 

[knitoe]

Anyone here had a 128gb Crucial M4 die on them? My boot drive did just that last week. One minute browsing the web fine, the next, not responding, black screen with a cursor and no way to do anything other than a hard reset. The bios couldn't detect it and as far as I can tell, it's dead...

This is why I recommend Samsung SSD if the price is close to a Crucial. I can't remember the last time someone had a problem with a Samsung SSD.

 

[Skyzard]

Anyone here had a 128gb Crucial M4 die on them? My boot drive did just that last week. One minute browsing the web fine, the next, not responding, black screen with a cursor and no way to do anything other than a hard reset. The bios couldn't detect it and as far as I can tell, it's dead...

Fuck that is scary, sorry to hear that.

 

[Bucket-o-roadkill]

This is why I recommend Samsung SSD if the price is close to a Crucial. I can't remember the last time someone had a problem with a Samsung SSD.

Yeah, that's a good shout and have to agree. From what I've read I came to the same conclusion and have ordered a Samsung EVO.

Fuck that is scary, sorry to hear that.

I know, it's pretty worrying. Luckily it was a boot drive and had a Macrium Reflect back-up handy from May. I just wiped another drive I had with nothing particularly interesting on it and I was back up and running in like 20 minutes. However the machine didn't want to do anything for quite a while, turns out the dead HDD was still connected physically and was screwing with the system still... Really weird.

 

[kharma45]

$400 cdn,

Yeah just office use like word, excel, browsing, sometimes youtube/netflix videos.

Edit: or I could upgrade her current office pc, the inside is pretty clean but it is prety old, she bought it in 2006.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-E33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($55.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($86.59 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ Canada Computers)
Case: BitFenix Merc Beta (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($31.58 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($36.99 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $388.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-02 19:27 EDT-0400

Could also drop it to a Pentium G3258. Would knock almost $50 off the price tag. Basically look at a machine around the budget build in the OP sans a GPU. The built in one will suffice.

If prices are close, I would go with the Samsung. I notice, from posters, Crucial's SSD seems to have more issues.

Apart from that one a few posts ago I've never really heard of many Crucial issues.

 

[Skyzard]

Yeah, that's a good shout and have to agree. From what I've read I came to the same conclusion and have ordered a Samsung EVO.



I know, it's pretty worrying. Luckily it was a boot drive and had a Macrium Reflect back-up handy from May. I just wiped another drive I had with nothing particularly interesting on it and I was back up and running in like 20 minutes. However the machine didn't want to do anything for quite a while, turns out the dead HDD was still connected physically and was screwing with the system still... Really weird.

Wow, not too bad, nicely done.

Yesterday my computer was staying on after unplugging the PSU. Power feeding through the USB expansion card to the PSU from a USB hub lol. Computers.

 

[JetForceGemini]

Anybody want to give the 411 on these specs remember I mainly just want to play 2k15 on 1080p/60fps and with mods in the game(do mods take up more processing power?)
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 760K
MOBO: MSI A78M-E35
GPU: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HARD DRIVE: WESTERN DIGITAL 500GB (easy up-gradable but 500gb is enough for a lot of stuff right now)
POWER SUPPLY: 430W Corsair CX430 (80+ bronze certified saves you power and is top of line)
CASE: Rosewill Galaxy-02

 

[kennah]

Anybody want to give the 411 on these specs remember I mainly just want to play 2k15 on 1080p/60fps and with mods in the game(do mods take up more processing power?)
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 760K
MOBO: MSI A78M-E35
GPU: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HARD DRIVE: WESTERN DIGITAL 500GB (easy up-gradable but 500gb is enough for a lot of stuff right now)
POWER SUPPLY: 430W Corsair CX430 (80+ bronze certified saves you power and is top of line)
CASE: Rosewill Galaxy-02

That is just. The worst.

We need more info... price? I don't think it'll run anything at the vaunted 1080p60

 

[JetForceGemini]

That is just. The worst.

We need more info... price? I don't think it'll run anything at the vaunted 1080p60

It's a pc I might be buying from someone, for about 400

 

[Nostremitus]

That is just. The worst.

We need more info... price? I don't think it'll run anything at the vaunted 1080p60

I wouldn't say "worst" It'd be around XboxOne level... so no... not 1080p/60... unless you turn all the settings down, then maybe a stuttery 1080p"60ish"

 

[neurosisxeno]

I wouldn't say "worst" It'd be around XboxOne level... so no... not 1080p/60... unless you turn all the settings down, then maybe a stuttery 1080p"60ish"

Nope, according to GAF even suggesting AMD CPU's leads to seppukku.

 

[JetForceGemini]

I mean I'm reading reviews of these parts and other people don't have any complaints

 

[Nostremitus]

I mean I'm reading reviews of these parts and other people don't have any complaints

It's about equivalent to an Xbox One, so don't expect to be able to play things on high or ultra at 60fps. It'd probably be a solid 720p machine for TV gaming, though.

 

[Reckoner]

Diagnostic tool says there is a hardware problem. I took one of the rams out, didn't give me hardware problem error on diagnostic anymore. The thing is that I can use over 4gbs of ram (I tried with Chrome) and I have 8gbs, which means it is using the two sticks anyway and there isn't a problem with it. I didn't have any blue screens or whatever. Should I be worried about the diagnostic?

I was having problems with Battlefield 4, that's why I ran the diagnostic tool, but it now turns out that the issue wasn't ram related and I fixed it already, so I put the two rams together and its working as always.

 

[DSN2K]

Anybody want to give the 411 on these specs remember I mainly just want to play 2k15 on 1080p/60fps and with mods in the game(do mods take up more processing power?)
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 760K
MOBO: MSI A78M-E35
GPU: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
HARD DRIVE: WESTERN DIGITAL 500GB (easy up-gradable but 500gb is enough for a lot of stuff right now)
POWER SUPPLY: 430W Corsair CX430 (80+ bronze certified saves you power and is top of line)
CASE: Rosewill Galaxy-02

thrown this together in a minute so the parts will be even cheaper potentially elsewhere. You will have massive CPU upgrades possible a year down the line what will last you 5+ years.

Just noticed I left the hard drive out, but you can get something decent with 500GB for £30-£50 easily.

 

[Hero Prinny]

HOLA AMIGOS! I got a quick question, I'm helping my brother build a gaming PC and graphics card are the most expensive part and also 1 of the most confusing since its just a bunch of numbers, pretty intimidating for someone that doesn't know much about them. So heres my question, which one of these 2 cards is better(I'm on a budget so its a fight between these two or if you know of one with a similar price I'm open to suggestions):

GTX660 Superclocked:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00966IREK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

or Radeon HD 7950(refurbished):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...4202071&cm_re=amd_7950-_-14-202-071-_-Product


btw this is the build(I already have the motherboard so I can't change that)

Motherboard - Gigabyte AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 ATX DDR3 1600 Motherboards GA-970A-DS3P (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ3DWN2/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )

Processor - AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300 6-Core Processor Black Edition ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009O7YORK/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )

Power supply - Corsair Builder Series CX 600 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS (CX600) ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092ML0OC/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-2133C10D-8GXM ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231654 )

Case - Rosewill Galaxy-03 Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Rear 120mm Fan, 1x Top 120mm Fan, Top mounted USB 3.0 Port ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147185 )

OS - Windows 8.1(already purchased)

HDD- 1TB Western Digital

I'm not missing anything, am I? (besides the dvd drive, and the graphics card which im asking for advice)

 

[MildSoss]

What's the best card for under 300$ right now? Not looking to play at anything higher then 1080p right now as my monitor doesn't support it.

Thanks.

 

[kennah]

What's the best card for under 300$ right now? Not looking to play at anything higher then 1080p right now as my monitor doesn't support it.

Thanks.

A used 290

 

[Hazaro]

My used 290 specifically

 

[MODernChris]

Hey everybody, I'm not registered to any hardware forums and I did use the 2011 thread to help me pick out parts so hopefully this is an ok place to ask for help about this. (tl;dr at bottom of post)

Anyways, way back in late 2011 I put together a PC and bought this GPU for $369.99.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127582
I remember it being a bit more expensive than the cards with stock coolers and looking back I probably should have just went with EVGA, but what's done is done. I was super happy with the card at the time as it was quiet, ran at great temps, and I had zero problems with any games.

Anyways, both of the fans eventually died. Earlier this year I heard the GPU fans making a weird ringing noise whenever they sped up due to GPU load, but I just ignored it. Then a bit over a month ago I noticed in Afterburner that the GPU was idling at 60 degrees C when it used to idle at 40. Looked inside and one of the fans had died. Due to laziness and the dread of dealing with an RMA I put if off, but then a month later the second fan died. I cleaned the PC with compressed air about every six months so there wasn't an insane amount of dust on the card. Apparently the lifespan on these fans are just poo.

I was still under the the three year warranty by both serial number and purchase date so I finally went through the dreaded RMA process and sent it off. I got an email on August 25 that they had received the card and everything seemed great, but then today I got an email which I will just quote here.

We apologize for any inconvenience, but we are currently out of stock of suitable or comparable replacements for your unit(s). In this case we will need to provide you with a refund based on the market value of $68.00 Will you accept this refund?

............

So the reason I posted this is that I am at a loss at what to do here. I am not gonna accept their completely awful refund of $68 when I bought the card for $369.99 and it is still under their original manufacturer warranty. So should I fight them and ask for a full refund? And if i fight, is there any chance of me actually winning? I bought it new from Newegg so I have the proof of purchase and everything. Or should I just say fuck it, ask for them to give me the card back, and then just buy a replacement fan from ebay. Like I said the actual card works completely fine, it is just the fans that are dead. I know they always default into giving a different, refurbished card, but it is fucking ridiculous that they can't just replace the fans.

TL;DR: Sent in two-year-old MSI GPU with dead fans (card works fine otherwise) for RMA that is still under original manufacturer warranty, was offered a measly $68 refund (bought the card for $369.99) since there are no comparable replacements. Should I fight for a full refund or just take the card back and buy replacement fans from ebay?

 

[kennah]

Refuse the refund and tell them you want a replacement card or the one you sent in repaired

 

[Hazaro]

Ask for a GTX 760 or if they are being picky as for an OC model 750Ti. Both of those are comparable.

Note MSI IIRC is 2 years labor 3 years parts so it might be a $50 'labor' on top of your refund.

 

[UnObtainium17]

My used 290 specifically

How much? been looking at the bsthread for i3/5 and a used r9 2xx

 

[kennah]

Seriously considering selling my i7 and getting an anniversary Pentium to play with.

 

[MODernChris]

Ask for a GTX 760 or if they are being picky as for an OC model 750Ti. Both of those are comparable.

Note MSI IIRC is 2 years labor 3 years parts so it might be a $50 'labor' on top of your refund.

Thanks, I'll type up an email right now inquiring them about the 760. And looking at the page I just found linked below you are right about the two years labor. Hopefully they'll just give me one of those cards though and it won't come down to that.

http://service.msicomputer.com/msi_user/msi_warranty.asp

 

[Paracelsus]

Sapphire 6870, i5-2500k, 2x4gb Hyper-X, Asrock H61M-S, display is connected via dvi-to-hdmi

Since three days ago I've started getting "display driver stopped working" etc., couldn't be dust because I cleaned the case six days ago, yet I still decide to turn the thing off, take gpu out and see if there's dust stuck in the heatsink choking it up (albeit temps were fine). Not really, so I put it back: fan spins, black screen, no boot. Take it off, hook monitor to onboard, it works no problem. Try again back with gpu, nothing. Have power supply checked for failing unit, nothing, test is alright. Hook three much older working cards, still black screen. Before someone asks: yes, the main adapter is set on pci-e even if I use onboard gfx.

Other than trying the main gpu somewhere else, which I haven't been able to find someone to try it out yet, are there other reset methods or trick I can use to see if my mobo is toast?

 

[Hazaro]

How much? been looking at the bsthread for i3/5 and a used r9 2xx

IDK if price is still current but $260 shipped for a reference card (Runs loud and hot) but benches at 1135/1500 OC'd. Know what you are getting into if you buy. Tolerable if you run at 40%-50% fan... sort of.
Could consider a G10 or HG10 add on.

Sapphire 6870, i5-2500k, 2x4gb Hyper-X, Asrock H61M-S, display is connected via dvi-to-hdmi

Since three days ago I've started getting "display driver stopped working" etc., couldn't be dust because I cleaned the case six days ago, yet I still decide to turn the thing off, take gpu out and see if there's dust stuck in the heatsink choking it up (albeit temps were fine). Not really, so I put it back: fan spins, black screen, no boot. Take it off, hook monitor to onboard, it works no problem. Try again back with gpu, nothing. Have power supply checked for failing unit, nothing, test is alright. Hook three much older working cards, still black screen. Before someone asks: yes, the main adapter is set on pci-e even if I use onboard gfx.

Other than trying the main gpu somewhere else, which I haven't been able to find someone to try it out yet, are there other reset methods or trick I can use to see if my mobo is toast?

Unplug and replug all power and data connectors. Hold power button when PC is off for 20 seconds.
Any bad or bulging caps?
Could try updating your BIOS and updating GPU drivers. What PSU is it?

 

[Skel1ingt0n]

I got a new promotion at work - it's been a few months of effort trying to get the pieces in place; but I officially started yesterday. As much as I'd REALLY love to splurge on that Swift monitor - so sexy - I can't justify it right now with some other life things getting in my way.

That said, I've hesitated to buy a sound card and a pair of headphones since I did my build last summer, as it's not oodles of fun just buying one without the other. But this chicken-and-egg obstacle has held me back too long. At this point, I'm just gonna go ahead and go for one of them; and then if I get a bonus later this year, I'll splurge on the other.

SO(!), I know I've asked this a few times; but does anyone have any issues against getting a Soundblaster Z/Zx/ZxR and a either the AKG Q701 or a pair of Phillips Fidelio X1?

I originally had it in my head that I would get the ZxR and the Q701s, not use the SB daughter board, and enjoy the better chips of the higher-end model. But more and more research, has brought me to two conclusions:

1. I think I'd prefer the X1s. Boomier bass grabs me - as the reportedly weaker bass of the Q701 were the only thing holding me back. That said, the X1s typically run about ~$100 more; but so be it, I guess.

2. Since I don't need the daughter board of the ZxR, and I don't care for the ZX because of the weaker components, would I be better off with the regular Z and then an external desktop/headphone amp? Basically, if I get the Z, I save about ~$130 for an AMP. Should I do that, or just get the ZxR by itself?

... or should I be considering anything else?

 

[IceIpor]

No, would have been if it happened a few weeks ago :\

Any suggestions for testing for solutions just so I can remain optimistic? The fact I've only changed my CPU/Mobo makes me feel like you're probably right though...

Isn't the Sapphire card covered by a 2-year warranty? I'm confused on how you're out of warranty, if the 290 was only released last year in September.

 

[Burai]

About to order this. Any last minute recommendations for a gaming pc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£157.00 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£36.95 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory (£65.76 @ Scan.co.uk)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.14 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card (£151.54 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: Zalman Z3 Plus ATX Mid Tower Case (£31.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (£31.55 @ Aria PC)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£10.22 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£83.90 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: Asus VE247H 23.6" Monitor (£125.88 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £731.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-02 09:23 BST+0100

For some reason PC Part Picker is massively biased against eBuyer.com. Whether it's the way it scrapes or something more sinister I don't know but it's worth running your parts on there to see if you can make a saving. I can see from your build that you'll save £10 buying Windows from eBuyer rather than Amazon, for example.

Apart from that, I echo an earlier comment about getting an SSD. A Celeron with 2GB RAM and an SSD boot drive runs faster than an i7 with 12GB and an HDD. Once you're in a game you won't care, but for everything else...

 

[Ezahn]

Cooler master 212.

And you should be overclocking

Whoooops....
I didn't consider that I could be forced to take out the mobo to mount it. :-(
That is SO uncool, I just don't have the expertise and time to disassemble and reasseble my PC.

My case is a CM 690 II Advanced and there's a small window in the back to access the rear of the mobo (AsRock P67 Extreme Sandy Bridge), but I'm afraid it's not enough (or could the mobo have been incorrectly mounted?) since I think one of the four holes to mount the rear pice of the CM 212 EVO is not visible...

 

[Addnan]

Whoooops....
I didn't consider that I could be forced to take out the mobo to mount it. :-(
That is SO uncool, I just don't have the expertise and time to disassemble and reasseble my PC.

My case is a CM 690 II Advanced and there's a small window in the back to access the rear of the mobo (AsRock P67 Extreme Sandy Bridge), but I'm afraid it's not enough (or could the mobo have been incorrectly mounted?) since I think one of the four holes to mount the rear pice of the CM 212 EVO is not visible...

You should have just about enough space. This is the back of my CM690 II. Not sure how one screw wouldn't be visible, it's a pretty big cut out

 

[Ezahn]

You should have just about enough space. This is the back of my CM690 II. Not sure how one screw wouldn't be visible, it's a pretty big cut out

Thanks man, I'll double check it when I get home.
Still awaiting for the delivery of the 212 anyways.

 

[ekgrey]

quick question: I shouldn't need to mess with BIOS on a Z97 board using a 4670K right? it's only the DC chips that don't always work straight away because the boards launched before Intel released the new chips?

oh, and good to see ya posting more, Haz.

 

[Forkball]

Edit: Nevermind, will post in other thread.

 

[Nostremitus]

quick question: I shouldn't need to mess with BIOS on a Z97 board using a 4670K right? it's only the DC chips that don't always work straight away because the boards launched before Intel released the new chips?

oh, and good to see ya posting more, Haz.

If you spent the extra on a z97 and a K processor you should definitely be messing with the bios or you just wasted money. Those are for overclocking.

But no, afaik you shouldn't need to update the bios.

 

[BeEatNU]

Pretty pissed lol.
Got all my parts for my x99 build and after putting it all together the MSI x99s gaming 7 mobo gives up mobo errors on the LED display . contacted support and they said I had to return the mobo lol :/

*le sigh*

Gotta take the whole damn thing out and return it to newegg. I just ran to Fry's and grabbed the Asus x99 deluxe as its replacement. I was hoping to keep the red and black theme going too