KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

SOLDIER said:
Whole lot of criticisms about my settings being too bright.

Would be helpful if they mentioned what I should change. Contrast, I assume?

Also, keep in mind this is for a private room (let's say "medium lit") and not a huge living room with a ton of lights.
Click to expand...

Check out the op. It needs like one thing changed and it's getting a face-lift from Mustard when I get a few minutes later.

Those are the general settings we have agreed on. Some different.

I will warn you. Your tv will look very different than what you have now but it will give you a more realistic life like picture.

Preference will always come into play tho.
 
WonkyPanda said:
Wait, I thought we were going with Black Level Auto on TV and Auto PS4. When did this change? The range seems to work fine with auto/auto
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It is fine. There was some discrepancy but jn the end a few people clarified that because of a few tech points we will get the same thing on auto auto.
 
Haines said:
It is fine. There was some discrepancy but jn the end a few people clarified that because of a few tech points we will get the same thing on auto auto.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Good to know. With auto/auto, my Wow disc was pretty spot-on with contrast and brightness with only a few tweaks needed. Black levels looked great.
 
SOLDIER said:
Whole lot of criticisms about my settings being too bright.

Would be helpful if they mentioned what I should change. Contrast, I assume?

Also, keep in mind this is for a private room (let's say "medium lit") and not a huge living room with a ton of lights.
Click to expand...

It depends, do you want to watch movies with the same color that the director wanted you to see, or do you want to watch movies with inaccurate color?

for example if you are watching the avengers do you want the hulk to be the color green that the director wanted him to be, or do you want the hulk to be bright radioactive green?

Do you want to have details on scenes that are bright, or do you want it extra bright to the point that those details get lost in the extra brightness?

Torch mode also generally crush shadow detail and blow out bright areas, meaning you're seeing less detail in the brightest and darkest parts of the picture. They're not used by a lot of videophiles because they give you a completely unnatural picture. Essentially, everything is cranked-up to near-max levels (color, contrast, sharpness) in order to give you a bright enough picture to overcome retail store lighting. When you adjust these settings using standardized colors/test patterns, you'll see just how 'off-spec' they really are.

Like i said earlier, nobody on gaf is watching your tv but you, you can set it up however you like.
 
WonkyPanda said:
Interesting. Good to know. With auto/auto, my Wow disc was pretty spot-on with contrast and brightness with only a few tweaks needed. Black levels looked great.
Click to expand...

Hey I'm curious what contrast you got

On that disc and the xbox calibration all I could figure out was to max it out.

Rtings has it maxed as well but than a few people and other sources have it lower around 90 etc.

Curious if you came up with anything different.
 
legbone said:
yeah, same here (ks9000, but still). my soundbar doesn't accept optical. i had to order a gefen converter that will convert dolby digital to analog. just search on amazon for gefen converter or something like that. be careful, there are some cheaper ones that won't convert dolby digital or dts.

edit:

here it is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0021QBIBQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Click to expand...

That might work but dang it's expensive. I just have my walls wired for analog not optical.
 
Haines said:
Check out the op. It needs like one thing changed and it's getting a face-lift from Mustard when I get a few minutes later.

Those are the general settings we have agreed on. Some different.

I will warn you. Your tv will look very different than what you have now but it will give you a more realistic life like picture.

Preference will always come into play tho.
Click to expand...

Gave those settings a shot, but I don't feel Game Mode is worth the trade-off: the input already feels really good without it.

And I do acknowledge that overdoing the contrast results in lost detail, so I'm still tinkering with things. When it comes to wanting a bright picture (but not "sun mode" as some say), is it better to have brightness higher than contrast or vice versa?

The PS4 is, most of the time, my go-to hub for both games and movies and streaming media, so I want to create a setting that accomodates all its content rather than games over movies or etc. I hooked up an Apple TV to the TV next, and made more modest adjustments there as I did notice less-black blacks and oversaturated colors. Obviously it's a device-by-device basis.

Still wondering if Auto or Full is best for the RBG setting on PS4.
 
Haines said:
Hey I'm curious what contrast you got

On that disc and the xbox calibration all I could figure out was to max it out.

Rtings has it maxed as well but than a few people and other sources have it lower around 90 etc.

Curious if you came up with anything different.
Click to expand...


On non HDR with a backlit of 7, 100 looked the best.
 
Been tweaking for weeks and can't get happy with the image quality of my HD com cast. It looks nice and sharp on our cheap bedroom TV, but on this new 65", it's almost blurry and the blacks are crushed. Struggling to be happy with the picture quality. Games look great, but the wife and I are confused on the cable TV. HD picture is looking almost like SD quality signal with how washed out and overly dark scenes are. Is there any good configurationstuff to try for normal tv?

And what picture mode do you all use?
 
Have some really noticeable semi-circle light bleed spots on the bottom but after the TV has warmed up, maybe 10-15 minutes they almost go away. Turn TV off for a few hours and they are back until the TV is warmed up again. Any fix to this?
 
Haines said:
Hey I'm curious what contrast you got

On that disc and the xbox calibration all I could figure out was to max it out.

Rtings has it maxed as well but than a few people and other sources have it lower around 90 etc.

Curious if you came up with anything different.
Click to expand...

I'm locked in at 94 Contrast. I lose differentiation between the top two or three brightest bars in the Disney WOW disc if I go any higher than that.
 
ponziacs said:
Have some really noticeable semi-circle light bleed spots on the bottom but after the TV has warmed up, maybe 10-15 minutes they almost go away. Turn TV off for a few hours and they are back until the TV is warmed up again. Any fix to this?
Click to expand...

probably just some minimal flashlighting. sounds like you are lucky since they actually go away. and no, there's really no fix for it. from what i've been told it's just one of the downsides of the tech (side or bottom edge lit leds).
 
digitalrelic said:
I'm locked in at 94 Contrast. I lose differentiation between the top two or three brightest bars in the Disney WOW disc if I go any higher than that.
Click to expand...

I encountered a cloud in uc4 with what i think was white clipping.

If i turned it down to 94, it fixed the cloud. I could see the detail again.

I will see if i can the differention you are speaking of. Appreciate the help.


Anyone know how to get mustards update for the op copied over without losing the boldimg etc?
 
Are there any free calibration discs I could download and run off a USB stick or burnt disc? Perhaps even off my PC screen, since I will have that directly displayed to the TV?
 
BattleMonkey said:
Been tweaking for weeks and can't get happy with the image quality of my HD com cast. It looks nice and sharp on our cheap bedroom TV, but on this new 65", it's almost blurry and the blacks are crushed. Struggling to be happy with the picture quality. Games look great, but the wife and I are confused on the cable TV. HD picture is looking almost like SD quality signal with how washed out and overly dark scenes are. Is there any good configurationstuff to try for normal tv?

And what picture mode do you all use?
Click to expand...

Low quality, compressed 720p/1080i material isn't going to look good stretched out to fit a 65" 4K screen, no matter what settings you tweak. Cable and Dish providers need to up their quality to better suit these screens.
 
Aztechnology said:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

For 709 at least. I'm not sure what if any free calibration tools are out there for the DCI-P3 or Rec 2020 space..
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Also made a few revisions to my settings, as my eyes were admittedly starting to hurt (but it could be because I've been working them double as I keep tinkering with the settings).

Brightness is at 80, Contrast is at 100, and Dynamic Contrast is off. I think keeping Sharpness at least at 20 gives the picture a...well, sharper look without looking overly sharp. I'm still debating on what setting Smart LED should be (it's at Low right now) and whether to use Cool or Standard for temp, as those are the only two options under Dynamic.

Edit: Actually, are the settings different if you're running in 4K+HDR? Turns out I was tweaking them while playing a game with both. Not sure if it has separate settings for 4K and non-4K content.
 
Are you just shooting in the dark soldier? Do you have any knowledge of what these setting actually do?

Id really hate for you to buy this nice new tv and have a completely borked picture on it man.

Hopefully you get where you need to go with your settings to suit your needs...
 
Really been considering getting one of these, if Amazon gets more in stock again.

Really weird question, but does the remote have that Wiimote like motion stuff with the cursor for navigating apps and menus? My knowledge of smart TVs is limited to the one my grandparents have, which has the Wiimote-like controller.
 
Conkerkid11 said:
Really been considering getting one of these, if Amazon gets more in stock again.

Really weird question, but does the remote have that Wiimote like motion stuff with the cursor for navigating apps and menus? My knowledge of smart TVs is limited to the one my grandparents have, which has the Wiimote-like controller.
Click to expand...

Not that im aware of, no.
 
Conkerkid11 said:
Really been considering getting one of these, if Amazon gets more in stock again.

Really weird question, but does the remote have that Wiimote like motion stuff with the cursor for navigating apps and menus? My knowledge of smart TVs is limited to the one my grandparents have, which has the Wiimote-like controller.
Click to expand...

No, sounds like your grandparents have an LG TV.
 
Haines said:
Are you just shooting in the dark soldier? Do you have any knowledge of what these setting actually do?

Id really hate for you to buy this nice new tv and have a completely borked picture on it man.

Hopefully you get where you need to go with your settings to suit your needs...
Click to expand...

I'm mainly going with what looks pleasing to me and firing different applications: what may be bright and vivid colors for World of Final Fantasy interferes with the blacks and other dark settings of Killing Floor 2, and so on. Again, I'm tinkering bit by bit until I reach a happy medium.

Again, I typically want a brighter image than what most people here tend to use; I'm the type who has his iPhone and iPad at max brightness in addition to handhelds. Knowing the best way to balance brightness and contrast would help a ton, so that I'm getting that bright picture without losing too much finer detail.
 
Finally was able to get a good deal here in Mexico for the 65", it's on backorder, I'm so anxious, hopefully I'll be able to get it soonish. Will definitely come back to this thread once I get it.
 
Haines said:
I encountered a cloud in uc4 with what i think was white clipping.

If i turned it down to 94, it fixed the cloud. I could see the detail again.

I will see if i can the differention you are speaking of. Appreciate the help.


Anyone know how to get mustards update for the op copied over without losing the boldimg etc?
Click to expand...

I think if you quote the post, it should have all the formatting in the text box. :)
 
SOLDIER said:
I'm mainly going with what looks pleasing to me and firing different applications: what may be bright and vivid colors for World of Final Fantasy interferes with the blacks and other dark settings of Killing Floor 2, and so on. Again, I'm tinkering bit by bit until I reach a happy medium.

Again, I typically want a brighter image than what most people here tend to use; I'm the type who has his iPhone and iPad at max brightness in addition to handhelds. Knowing the best way to balance brightness and contrast would help a ton, so that I'm getting that bright picture without losing too much finer detail.
Click to expand...

What you want higher than most of us is Backlight. That's equivalent to the Brightness setting of an iPhone. Just for shits and giggles, try copying the settings in the OP, and then upping the Backlight to the intensity that feels good. That will get you the most accurate picture, and allow you to control the intensity.

Remember that you might like certain images to look a given way, but that's like upping the treble on your MP3 player until your music sounds like a bumblebee in a matchbox. If you get used to music that sounds like that, it'll sound weird when it's properly balanced. Same thing applies to TVs. Try taking some time to get used to how the image is intended to look before you tweak things to suit your preferences, that way you'll know you're making informed decisions when you deviate from a given baseline.
 
I really can't get behind this notion of an objective brightness setting: everyone's sensitivity is different, everyone has different lighting conditions in their rooms, etc.

I do agree about having things cranked up so high that details are lost, which is why I'm continuing to tinker (turned off dynamic contrast, regular contrast now down to 80). But if I'm watching something where I bounce between two values, I'm going to go with the one that looks best for me, even if it's going through a few artificial filters or what have you.

Color and tint settings are something I'm particularly curious about, so I'll try to run that free calibration program from AVS that was linked.
 
For those who watched the Grand Tour on Amazon... did the cast look really pink to you? I had it in HDR with Color Space on Auto and they look really pink/red/orange. Looking at the Custom Color Space it's set at 50 red 2 green 0 blue, is that normal? Cuz Auto and Custom were showing the same colors with the bright pink/red/orange skin. Switching to Native Color Space helped make it look more normal. I don't really know what to think since the last updates say Auto Color Space for everything.
 
Do you guys use sharpness when playing a 1080p game? I tried some Witcher and Smash 4 but both were very soft, I don't know if that's just an effect of upscaling or if I should tinker with some setting..
 
Robiin said:
Do you guys use sharpness when playing a 1080p game? I tried some Witcher and Smash 4 but both were very soft, I don't know if that's just an effect of upscaling or if I should tinker with some setting..
Click to expand...

Sharpness at 10 or 15 for me.
 
SOLDIER said:
I'm mainly going with what looks pleasing to me and firing different applications: what may be bright and vivid colors for World of Final Fantasy interferes with the blacks and other dark settings of Killing Floor 2, and so on. Again, I'm tinkering bit by bit until I reach a happy medium.

Again, I typically want a brighter image than what most people here tend to use; I'm the type who has his iPhone and iPad at max brightness in addition to handhelds. Knowing the best way to balance brightness and contrast would help a ton, so that I'm getting that bright picture without losing too much finer detail.
Click to expand...

If brightness is what you're after, put your backlight at max, 20. Just leave brightness at around 45 and contrast 100. Backlight will give you that bright light you want. Keep color at around 50 as well. If you want it looking vivid, turn on Native color under colour space.
 
Quick Mustard said:
Eh, I'd say you should be less happy with Sky and their shit signal quality then the TV.
I'm in the same boat, Have sky myself but its down to them to improve on their lackluster 1080i signal, which they have with the grossly overpriced Sky Q.
Click to expand...
New customers can get Sky Q 2TB, a Sky Q mini, and a 43" UHD TV for £50 a month, and only £15 for set up and installation.
 
SOLDIER said:
These are my current picture settings on the KS8000, using content on my PS4 Pro for reference:

Picture Mode: Dynamic

Backlight: 20

Brightness: 58

Contrast: 90

Sharpness: 86 (I'm constantly tinkering with this as I don't notice much difference past a certain threshold)

Color: 60 (also something I'm tinkering with)

Tint: 50 (default)

Digital Clean View: Off (does this only affect movies/video?)

Auto Motion Plus: Custom (Blur Reduction: 0, Judder Reduction: 10, LED Clear Motion: 0) (I don't see this getting much use for games, but it works surprisingly well with World of Final Fantasy, perhaps because of the fixed camera angles. Also wondering if Auto Motion increases lag like the LG's Tru Motion did).

Smart LED: Off (wondering if it's worth keeping on?)

HDMI UHD Color: On on all ports

HDMI Black Level: Auto

Dynamic Contrast: High

Color Tone: Cool

Eco Solution: All Off

Would like suggestions on any changes, but keep in mind that vibrancy and color is my primary factor, and that I have no interest in Game Mode (perhaps down the line if I heavily get into a multiplayer game).
Click to expand...

Je1XGLe.gif
 
I know someone who is getting this TV. I might not be able to have some time with the calibration settings, but I'd like to see for myself how much you guys are botching the picture with dynamic contrast lol
 
SOLDIER said:
These are my current picture settings on the KS8000, using content on my PS4 Pro for reference:

Picture Mode: Dynamic

Backlight: 20

Brightness: 58

Contrast: 90

Sharpness: 86 (I'm constantly tinkering with this as I don't notice much difference past a certain threshold)

Color: 60 (also something I'm tinkering with)

Tint: 50 (default)

Digital Clean View: Off (does this only affect movies/video?)

Auto Motion Plus: Custom (Blur Reduction: 0, Judder Reduction: 10, LED Clear Motion: 0) (I don't see this getting much use for games, but it works surprisingly well with World of Final Fantasy, perhaps because of the fixed camera angles. Also wondering if Auto Motion increases lag like the LG's Tru Motion did).

Smart LED: Off (wondering if it's worth keeping on?)

HDMI UHD Color: On on all ports

HDMI Black Level: Auto

Dynamic Contrast: High

Color Tone: Cool

Eco Solution: All Off

Would like suggestions on any changes, but keep in mind that vibrancy and color is my primary factor, and that I have no interest in Game Mode (perhaps down the line if I heavily get into a multiplayer game).
Click to expand...

If you are having to put your brightness much over 45 then there is either something wrong with your TV or your HDMI Black Level is incorrect. Set brightness down to 45 on a dark scene and try HDMI Black Level at Normal instead of Auto.
 
Brightness over over 45-50 starts to really wash out the image, I wouldn't go over that value. If you really feel like you need brightness, adjust the backlight or dynamic contrast.

As for dynamic picture mode...not trying to be an ass but I don't know how anyone could watch anything this way. It makes people's skin look like the sun, it is way too bright.

Movie mode is preferred, but if you really don't like it or just can't get used to it. Standard or Natural would be better than Dynamic. Dynamic is just....terrible.

If you notice that your games look to dark, you might have a mismatch of HDMI Black Level and RGB Range. They both need to be set to the same value.

Auto=Auto (preferred)
Full=Normal
Limited=Low

The OP is full of really great information. Start with those settings and then adjust the rest to your liking.

my2c
 
BattleMonkey said:
My HDMI black level is grayed out and I can't alter it, is there something wrong here?
Click to expand...
No, it just means that your TV is currently receiving a YCbCr signal, not RGB, so the black level setting does not apply. If you try some different content that uses RGB you will be able to adjust it.
 
Has there been a fix for the HDR brightness bug yet?
 
SOLDIER said:
Color and tint settings are something I'm particularly curious about, so I'll try to run that free calibration program from AVS that was linked.
Click to expand...

For color and tint you need a blue filter (or colorimeter) to be able to set properly.

The real concern should be proper brightness and contrast. This can be done with the disc by eye, in limited video range.

Then use the backlight if you need more or less luminance.

Edit just looked at your settings. D.C. Should be off when you run the test patterns, at the very least.
 
Just got mine, but I'm struggling to get my PC displaying correctly.

When I try to go to 60Hz, I get a green/purple screen that's stretched. What am I doing wrong? I have a GTX 1070, it's connected by HDMI. Do I need a better HDMI cable?

Edit: Nevermind, worked it out. Needed to enable UHD colour.
 
Wrestlemania said:
Just got mine, but I'm struggling to get my PC displaying correctly.

When I try to go to 60Hz, I get a green/purple screen that's stretched. What am I doing wrong? I have a GTX 1070, it's connected by HDMI. Do I need a better HDMI cable?
Click to expand...
Probably, my 1070 did the same thing but I just rebooted my computer while the screen was all messed up looking and it worked fine since .
 
Struggling to get some answers on this problem. I noticed a small smudge on my screen that I tried to clean with a dry cloth and it just got bigger and smuged some more. I have no idea how to clean this off the screen. Its a big blue oily mark, and I and it almost looks like I'm removing a film coating off the screen; hopefully thats not the case.

Anyone know how to fix this? Anyone here had any success?
 
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