KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

So the 60" is gimped? Mines coming Friday. Any sources for this?

Others have already replied, but no, far from gimped! Rtings says it is "the best 60 inch 4k TV money can buy." They also investigated the notion of a "panel lottery" a little while back and found that there are the subtlest of differences between all manufacturers and Samsung panels are not necessarily better, either.

Surprised nobody put this here yet: Digital Foundry's recommended settings for PS4 PRO:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsTHtQ8hI1U

What I don't understand is why is he using Limited range instead of Full. Can someone clarify? It's a fucking maze with these settings....

We had a discussion several pages back on this one. Basically, Limited is just a different interpretation of Full. It slightly narrows the range of brightness values but adjusts the gamma curve--the picture is identical. It's also more compatible, as TV shows and movies are rendered in the limited range. Basically safer to use Auto/Limited on PS4 and Auto on TV.
 
Others have already replied, but no, far from gimped! Rtings says it is "the best 60 inch 4k TV money can buy." They also investigated the notion of a "panel lottery" a little while back and found that there are the subtlest of differences between all manufacturers and Samsung panels are not necessarily better, either.



We had a discussion several pages back on this one. Basically, Limited is just a different interpretation of Full. It slightly narrows the range of brightness values but adjusts the gamma curve--the picture is identical. It's also more compatible, as TV shows and movies are rendered in the limited range. Basically safer to use Auto/Limited on PS4 and Auto on TV.

DF says the auto options are unreliable and recommends:
Limited PS4 - LOW TV
Full PS4 - NORMAL TV
 
What's everyone's experience with AGS deliveries? My tv has been in my city since 11/23 but I haven't received a callback from them yet and their customer support line is always busy. When I was able to get through yesterday they said that I should wait for their call to schedule my in-home, white-glove delivery.

The wait has been killing me!
 
Can anyone tell me the width of the smaller stand position for the 65" model from farthest point to point? Ive heard its 39" but then heard it was 41". Im trying to determine if my TV stand will fit it properly.
 
DF says the auto options are unreliable and recommends:
Limited PS4 - LOW TV
Full PS4 - NORMAL TV

Yeah, so long as they are the same it's fine. Limited/Limited, Full/Full

That makes no sense, the TV if capable of using full range rgb should always use full range rgb.

You won't discern the difference.

I also imagine this is because DF play games on Xbox, where you (used to) have an issue with some titles.

DF needs voice training for at least two of their hosts though. Holy shit.
 
Repair guy just left. Whole process took maybe 40 minutes and the new panel is perfect.

I took the morning shift off for this. Gotta go back to work for the afternoon shift. That's gonna hurt if FFXV arrives right before I leave.
 
How did he take off the panel and put it back together?

Took it off my mount and placed on blanket on floor. Pried off the plastic back. Disconnected all the guts. Brought in new panel. Reconnected all the guts. Reattached the plastic back. The plastic back snaps in and the panel itself has sealing tape on the corners, so the new panel had fresh adhesive.
 
Okay so... Not that this comment is very important, but watching DF talk about TV settings etc. shows just how low-budget they are. Other content providers for this sort of thing present their stuff much better.

I like that they're telling gamers to stop their bullshit like using Dynamic Contrast and Cool colour temperatures, though.

But, they should perhaps explain what "accurate" means for their userbase. When they say "2.2 gamma" in the video with no explanation whatsoever, not even in layman's terms, I imagine it's hard to follow for some people.
 
But, they should perhaps explain what "accurate" means for their userbase. When they say "2.2 gamma" in the video with no explanation whatsoever, not even in layman's terms, I imagine it's hard to follow for some people.

I agree. I still have no idea what 2.2 means :D
 
I just can't let go of Dynamic Contrast guys, I can't....Without it the picture is just hard for me to see, it's too dim. I'm just not seeing how it ruins the image, I don't see it crushing any blacks and over saturating colors. When I have an HDR movie/show playing, if I don't have Dynamic Contrast set to medium I feel like I am just not able to see detail/color properly.

Here is what I use:

Games = Dynamic Contrast Off
SDR = Dynamic Contrast Low
HDR = Dynamic Contrast Medium

I have cheaper TV, but I also love Dynamic Contrast. I don't get why it gets so much hate. I don't see any crushed blacks outside of Xbox 360 games running on Xbox One... I've tried researching Dynamic Contrast to see what the downsides are, but there's so little info available online.. People just tell me to turn it off and don't explain why...
 
On PC you can see a huge difference via HDMI on my current set, limited has washed out blacks, full rgb has deep blacks with no crushing.

Because PC is always Full, silly sausage

If you have an Nvidia card you can output to limited. I dare you to spot the difference then.

Does setting the Pro to Auto automatically go to Full RGB? Or does it switch back and forth between limited/full depending on HDR?

I don't have a PS4, but I've heard it's unreliable. Just set it to whatever your TV is and be done with it.
 
It took staring at a yellow patch of grass in The Witness for 10 minutes, but I think.... I think I can see a difference with HDR switched on.

Is there a best way to test out the difference? Like staring into the bloom of sunlight, some dark shadows, a swath of saturated colors or a dull patch? Where would you notice the biggest difference?
 
Does setting the Pro to Auto automatically go to Full RGB? Or does it switch back and forth between limited/full depending on HDR?

Ps4 games without hdr will run full rgb if supported, hdr runs in 4:2:0 limited. Some non hdr games I think also run 420.

Best to put ps4 on auto imo. I have a Sony x800d that has also has an auto setting for full/limited and the ps4 reliably knows what to do. Not sure on the Samsung.
 
It took staring at a yellow patch of grass in The Witness for 10 minutes, but I think.... I think I can see a difference with HDR switched on.

Is there a best way to test out the difference? Like staring into the bloom of sunlight, some dark shadows, a swath of saturated colors or a dull patch? Where would you notice the biggest difference?

LOL. This is the reason why I can't decide if I should stick with my current TV (Hisense H8C) which has weak HDR or if I should look for something else. I even went to the store to see what "true" HDR supposed to look like. And even there most of the examples didn't look better than my TV. What I care the most about are good blacks which my TV can do. I think I'll just stick with cheaper TV until I can afford OLED.

The one case where HDR makes the most difference (even on my crappy HDR TV) is in Uncharted multiplayer. Maps look much more vibrant. Going back to non-HDR makes me think of Gears one colors :)
 
LOL. This is the reason why I can't decide if I should stick with my current TV (Hisense H8C) which has weak HDR or if I should look for something else. I even went to the store to see what "true" HDR supposed to look like. And even there most of the examples didn't look better than my TV. What I care the most about are good blacks which my TV can do. I think I'll just stick with cheaper TV until I can afford OLED.

The one case where HDR makes the most difference (even on my crappy HDR TV) is in Uncharted multiplayer. Maps look much more vibrant. Going back to non-HDR makes me think of Gears one colors :)

I had an H8C and switched to a 49x800d. Hdr is more dramatic by far just because of the colors. Immediately noticeable. The 49x800d is an ips though so it has nowhere near the h8cs blacks or contrast. I always have ambient light in my room so it's not a huge deal for me, but if you like dark room gaming I'd probably stick with the h8c.

It really is a trade-off of blacks vs colors lol. KS8000 is probably best of both worlds, but colors are probably not quite as impressive as a Sony x8 series set. But so close it shouldn't matter but you gain 1000+ nits and better contrast.

I mainly went with the Sony because it will have much better resale value than an H8C and the KS8000 was out of my budget for what I wanted to spend after selling my previous set.

H8C is an insane value set with great PQ and blacks and contrast. Problem I had with it is I feel it will be worth less than $200 in a year while the Sony will probably hold closer to $500 if I were to sell it in 1-3 years for an oled.
 
Well if DF themselves are telling me to use warm 2 for video games I suppose I'll take yet another look.

In any testing I did warm2 had way too much red in the image to my eye.

But if they suggest it I can't ignore it. Though. He says "certain videogames" which is kind of confusing tbh.
 
I had an H8C and switched to a 49x800d. Hdr is more dramatic by far just because of the colors. Immediately noticeable. The 49x800d is an ips though so it has nowhere near the h8cs blacks or contrast. I always have ambient light in my room so it's not a huge deal for me, but if you like dark room gaming I'd probably stick with the h8c.

It really is a trade-off of blacks vs colors lol. KS8000 is probably best of both worlds, but colors are probably not quite as impressive as a Sony x8 series set. But so close it shouldn't matter but you gain 1000+ nits and better contrast.

I mainly went with the Sony because it will have much better resale value than an H8C and the KS8000 was out of my budget for what I wanted to spend after selling my previous set.

H8C is an insane value set with great PQ and blacks and contrast. Problem I had with it is I feel it will be worth less than $200 in a year while the Sony will probably hold closer to $500.

That's true. But at this point I also started to appreciate bigger size... I'm not going to get OLED for the next 2 years, so at that point I might want two 4K TVs. Literally my only issue with H8C is that in some very specific dark scenes there's some motion blur on objects. And because I care about blacks so much the only TV I would consider upgrading to is KS8000. But it's twice the price and still not as good as OLED that I really want. :) Seems like H8C is the only stop gap option for me.

Also it's insane how good the picture is on H8C for the price it was launched at. Other comparable TVs with crazy discounts are around 600 and H8C launched at 600! (I got it for 500)
 
That's true. But at this point I also started to appreciate bigger size... I'm not going to get OLED for the next 2 years, so at that point I might want two 4K TVs. Literally my only issue with H8C is that in some very specific dark scenes there's some motion blur on objects. And because I care about blacks so much the only TV I would consider upgrading to is KS8000. But it's twice the price and still not as good as OLED that I really want. :) Seems like H8C is the only stop gap option for me.

Also it's insane how good the picture is on H8C for the price it was launched at. Other comparable TVs with crazy discounts are around 600 and H8C launched at 600! (I got it for 500)

Yes, it's an excellent set and I also got the 55 for $500. When I first returned it I immediately regretted it because the first Sony I got had terrible black light bleed. Exchanged it and got a perfect one so all good now!
 
This is what I am saying, if I switch between full and limited in my Nvidia control panel the difference is massive, limited is washed out, full has deeper blacks with no crush.

I have my TV set to normal/full always for console and PC and it is greyed out for TV as it only supports limited.

No no, what I'm saying is that your PC will output Full by default. You can make it output to limited if you want to in driver settings. So long as your TV and image is the same, you won't notice any difference.

Switch it in the control panel, then also on your display. If you're using a monitor, chances are it only supports Full range. If it has an option for limited then you'll see it will be the same.
 
These are the DF recommended settings from the video for easy reference.

BACKLIGHT: 5
BRIGHTNESS: 45
CONTRAST: 90
SHARPNESS: 0
COLOR: 50
TINT: 50
DIGITAL/ANALOG CLEAN VIEW: Off
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
SMART LED: Off
FILM MODE: Off
HDMI UHD COLOR: On (per input)
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: Low
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Off
COLOR TONE: Warm2
GAMMA: -1
RGB ONLY: Off
COLOR SPACE: Custom

That said, I'm bailing out of this thread for good. The more posts I read, the more I think about checking my settings again and testing new ones – I'll never be able to settle on anything that simply looks good to my eyes and I'll lose my mind. I've been calibrating this set for like two months now!

Good luck and enjoy the TV, folks.
 
I ordered this TV last week and should be arriving Monday. I better start understanding this shit! hahah

Just use the op.
I put a lot of trust into df. So when I saw the reccomend warm2 I tinkered some more and I am now on the warm 2 train..

I believe I tricked myself into warm1 by comparing standard 1 and 2. So the middle always looked the best.

If I switched between w1 and 2 tho I found 2 looked better.

My wife who was hard on w1 was even convinced. The final nail was pulling out the journal in uc4. W2 is how I believe that journal should look.

The way I convinced her was w1 made the game look too much like levels made in a game creator and not a world being lived in with sunlight and atmosphere.

Anyways. It's all personal preference but I have now decided warm2 looks the most realistic and am done tinkering with that setting.

Thanks again DF.

I have some life stuff to do and if I can get it done I will update op before work
 
What's everyone's experience with AGS deliveries? My tv has been in my city since 11/23 but I haven't received a callback from them yet and their customer support line is always busy. When I was able to get through yesterday they said that I should wait for their call to schedule my in-home, white-glove delivery.

The wait has been killing me!

My TV should be arriving today via AGS. I swear these guys are run by teamsters. The guy on their toll free customer service sounded like a 70's NYC cabbie or something, and their tracking site was last updated in 1999.

Anyway, long story short, once the TV arrives in your area, call customer service and ask for the local office number. Call that number and you should be able to schedule a delivery, with a 4! hour window. They will not call to schedule an appointment with any sort of urgency, so you have to be proactive about it.

Good luck. I hope mine actually arrives today. It's been 1.5 weeks now and it was only shipped from Southern Cal to Northern Cal. Thanksgiving was in there, but still...
 
Just use the op.
I put a lot of trust into df. So when I saw the reccomend warm2 I tinkered some more and I am now on the warm 2 train..

I believe I tricked myself into warm1 by comparing standard 1 and 2. So the middle always looked the best.

If I switched between w1 and 2 tho I found 2 looked better.

My wife who was hard on w1 was even convinced. The final nail was pulling out the journal in uc4. W2 is how I believe that journal should look.

The way I convinced her was w1 made the game look too much like levels made in a game creator and not a world being lived in with sunlight and atmosphere.

Anyways. It's all personal preference but I have now decided warm2 looks the most realistic and am done tinkering with that setting.

Thanks again DF.

I have some life stuff to do and if I can get it done I will update op before work

You trust... DF?

Not AVS Forums or rtings etc.?

Not the countless people who talked about 6500k in that other thread?

;(

DF you have so much power.
 
You trust... DF?

Not AVS Forums or rtings etc.?

Not the countless people who talked about 6500k in that other thread?

;(

DF you have so much power.

I trust them all sure. But my mind was convinced warm1. Xbox calibration backed that up.

But when DF job is purely the best image for gaming and not movies etc and they say w2 I had to check for myself again.

Please don't hurt me.

I am leaving gamma at 0 but df even said 0 was fine.
 
From OP

Hdr for gaming!
This is bugged, you will have to manually up the backlight to 20 for hdr game content in gaming mode and back to 5-10 when you are done. Hopefully we get a fix soon
Set dynamic contrast to off. This can vary by preference. Off gives best range and detail.
Smart led is reccomended to be on high for hdr.

Is this still true? My new TV arrives today and I want to test out HDR on FFXV.
 
From OP



Is this still true? My new TV arrives today and I want to test out HDR on FFXV.
I don't know if it's correct to call it a bug, but yes. Play some HDR content on Netflix before hopping to game mode and playing HDR content on the PS4 and you'll understand.

Check out the rtings settings beforehand.
 
Just got my 49" setup and it looks amazing!

Only issue I've run in to is when I try and download the Amazon app I get an error "unable to connect to Samsung server, error code AS415". Has anybody else experience this.

Other apps such as Netflix work fine?
 
On a related note, does anyone know of a decent shortcut to switch sound output between normal speakers and bluetooth headphones? It's annoying that it takes like 50 clicks on the remote to change the settings...
 
What's everyone's experience with AGS deliveries? My tv has been in my city since 11/23 but I haven't received a callback from them yet and their customer support line is always busy. When I was able to get through yesterday they said that I should wait for their call to schedule my in-home, white-glove delivery.

The wait has been killing me!

AGS is the worst service I've ever received for anything in my entire life.

I'm dealing with a shitshow from them right now (the third or fourth in two weeks) and I'm absolutely livid. This TV was supposed to be delivered a week and a half ago. Now, on its scheduled delivery day, it has completely missed its delivery window and after contacting their delivery department, they couldn't get ahold of the driver for 45+ minutes and counting. It's caused me to miss my psychiatry appointment today which I know sounds backwards, but this is the only day until NEXT Tuesday that I could possibly receive this TV. I can reschedule my psych appointment for another day, although I'm being charged 50 fucking dollars for the privilege. There's no guarantee this driver will arrive today at all and, in that case, I'm totally fucked. Their stations are all in the suburbs of Chicago so there's no way I could get there without a car to pick it up. And even if I could get there, I'd have to pay for an Uber XL to get back. So they have fucked me over so hard so often and have already cost me real fucking dollars for their incompetence (and possibly more in the future).

AGS is hell.
 
So you should still be in game mode for viewing 4K HDR blu-rays?

Also, what is the best way to stream 4K Netflix content? PS4 Pro, XBox One S? TV app?

You can turn game mode off. It probably doesn't make a difference.

4k hdr is on tv app for netflix with the proper subscribtion

Systems need there netflix updated as far as I know


Anybody new stumbling into the thread. Read the op. Lots of answers there.
 
Okay so... Not that this comment is very important, but watching DF talk about TV settings etc. shows just how low-budget they are. Other content providers for this sort of thing present their stuff much better.

I like that they're telling gamers to stop their bullshit like using Dynamic Contrast and Cool colour temperatures, though.

But, they should perhaps explain what "accurate" means for their userbase. When they say "2.2 gamma" in the video with no explanation whatsoever, not even in layman's terms, I imagine it's hard to follow for some people.

Low-budget wasn't my first thought, but I was annoyed every time the camera cut away from the tv settings to show the hosts in frame, especially when they are in the middle of discussing the various settings and half the time not directly showing it through the feed. Just wish they kept the TV feed as a priority, it was more important to see what remote man was actually doing every step than watching them talk to each other. Bookend the video by showing the hosts, but the bulk of the actual settings adjustment needs to be full-on TV feed.

Also yes, more time explaining the justification behind their recommendations would be nice. I was able to discern part of their tech lingo(I kind of understood the backlight brightness part I think?), but it did feel they are speaking specifically to an audience more versed in this stuff then most and I am blindly goose-stepping along with no actual understanding why.

Still, I really do appreciate videos like this and would like them to continue (and improve!)
 
Anyone do me a solid. Throw me the 2 links to the 2 DF videos on this tv.

Want to get them into op now, and im dealing with 3 other things at the moment
 
I have cheaper TV, but I also love Dynamic Contrast. I don't get why it gets so much hate. I don't see any crushed blacks outside of Xbox 360 games running on Xbox One... I've tried researching Dynamic Contrast to see what the downsides are, but there's so little info available online.. People just tell me to turn it off and don't explain why...

Actually it has been explained in this thread.
Maybe this will make it easier to understand:

The "dynamic enhancements" found on some displays in the "contrast" arena tend to modify the gamma. This "modification" may be pleasing to the eye, or on the other-hand, disastrous to the fine details available on the medium (dvd's or whatever).

A crossed step gray scale pattern should show visible delineation between each and every step. If you (or anyone else for that matter) wish to see the actual effects of gamma modifiers like the aforementioned "dynamic contrast", just put that pattern up after dialing in the B/W levels with the enhancement off. Then, with the calibrated b/w levels still in play, check the results using the various settings of the enhancement protocol.

With actual movie content and a scene with lots of blue sky and clouds, pause the playback and look at the folds and convolutions in the clouds. Then implement the enhancement settings and see if the clouds turn into "cotton balls", with no definition. The same holds true for film content and black levels.
 
On a brand new, eye-wateringly expensive TV, being constantly reminded of a bug a user has to correct for isn't fun. Sure, it's nowhere near as bad as an HDMI handshake issue or flaw with the display, but it's still a problem that those of us using optical out shouldn't have to deal

I guess I'm just not impatient. I'm not going to let 10 seconds to bother me.
 
Any news on the 1152 update for European TVs?

Or can anyone please provide me with a download link for 1150? I can't find it anywhere, only 1142.
 
My TV should be arriving today via AGS. I swear these guys are run by teamsters. The guy on their toll free customer service sounded like a 70's NYC cabbie or something, and their tracking site was last updated in 1999.

Anyway, long story short, once the TV arrives in your area, call customer service and ask for the local office number. Call that number and you should be able to schedule a delivery, with a 4! hour window. They will not call to schedule an appointment with any sort of urgency, so you have to be proactive about it.

Good luck. I hope mine actually arrives today. It's been 1.5 weeks now and it was only shipped from Southern Cal to Northern Cal. Thanksgiving was in there, but still...

Thank you for this advice! I couldn't get through their CS line today and just googled their local office's phone number. They only deliver between 8-5 so I had to pick this coming Friday. My fingers are crossed that there will be no issues!

AGS is the worst service I've ever received for anything in my entire life.

AGS is hell.

Ouch. I hope everything gets sorted out for you without much more issue.
 
Actually it has been explained in this thread.
Maybe this will make it easier to understand:

The "dynamic enhancements" found on some displays in the "contrast" arena tend to modify the gamma. This "modification" may be pleasing to the eye, or on the other-hand, disastrous to the fine details available on the medium (dvd's or whatever).

A crossed step gray scale pattern should show visible delineation between each and every step. If you (or anyone else for that matter) wish to see the actual effects of gamma modifiers like the aforementioned "dynamic contrast", just put that pattern up after dialing in the B/W levels with the enhancement off. Then, with the calibrated b/w levels still in play, check the results using the various settings of the enhancement protocol.

With actual movie content and a scene with lots of blue sky and clouds, pause the playback and look at the folds and convolutions in the clouds. Then implement the enhancement settings and see if the clouds turn into "cotton balls", with no definition. The same holds true for film content and black levels.


I'll take a look and see if I can tell a difference. But if the image is more pleasing to the eye why would one care if I can see tiny details which I would not pay attention to anyway...
 
You can turn game mode off. It probably doesn't make a difference.

4k hdr is on tv app for netflix with the proper subscribtion

Systems need there netflix updated as far as I know


Anybody new stumbling into the thread. Read the op. Lots of answers there.

Thanks. So for now, looks like its best to avoid Netflix streaming from PS4 Pro or XB1S and stick to just the TV app.
 
Thank you for this advice! I couldn't get through their CS line today and just googled their local office's phone number. They only deliver between 8-5 so I had to pick this coming Friday. My fingers are crossed that there will be no issues!



Ouch. I hope everything gets sorted out for you without much more issue.

Finally after two more calls and two more hours I got confirmation that they will be delivering the TV by 4 at the latest. The representative I spoke with was very adamant that she was making sure this was the case. I ended up finding the one pleasant person in that company.

So they may have wasted my entire beautiful day off (in addition to two weeks of my time) but I have a guarantee it's arriving within the next couple hours--thank god. I'm serious though: if this TV is damaged somehow and I have to go through the hassle of returning it and waiting for a replacement, I will Flip. My. Fucking. Shit.
 
Goddammit, I can't get the Amazon Prime app to work. I just finished setting up my KS7090 and wanted to check out the Grand Tour in HDR. The app simply doesn't start :(
I'm on firmware 1142 and can't update.
 
I trust them all sure. But my mind was convinced warm1. Xbox calibration backed that up.

But when DF job is purely the best image for gaming and not movies etc and they say w2 I had to check for myself again.

Please don't hurt me.

I am leaving gamma at 0 but df even said 0 was fine.

Calibration for games and movies should be the same. They are all (hopefully) mastered for the same settings. 6500k, sRGB etc.

~~

:)
 
I'll take a look and see if I can tell a difference. But if the image is more pleasing to the eye why would one care if I can see tiny details which I would not pay attention to anyway...

because some people like details? clouds is just a simple example. it affects more than just clouds. like i said, it's your tv, set it up however you like. all i did was explain what DC does. you asked the question, i answered.

view some test patterns with Dynamic Contrast on, and then with it off. Get test images from here http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ Also, get a grayscale up on your monitor and notice the effect Dynamic Contrast has. Dynamic Contrast is artificial and will most likely clip information in the image at some point, not allowing you to see all of the intended image. However, if you like the way it looks (for example, if you think it looks cool with games), then by all means do what looks best to you. But as far as accuracy goes, Dynamic Contrast is best left off.
 
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