"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Ah, ran into another issue. I (ignorantly) left the computer's monitor at my parents' place because I thought (possibly ignorantly) that I could just plug the PC into my TV via HDMI and it would just work. So far, I haven't been able to get the TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from the PC. Was there something I was supposed to do before leaving the monitor behind (like selecting HDMI out for display or something?)? Is there any way I can trigger this or fix this via just the keyboard and no display?
 
ZeroMaverick said:
Ah, ran into another issue. I (ignorantly) left the computer's monitor at my parents' place because I thought (possibly ignorantly) that I could just plug the PC into my TV via HDMI and it would just work. So far, I haven't been able to get the TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from the PC. Was there something I was supposed to do before leaving the monitor behind (like selecting HDMI out for display or something?)? Is there any way I can trigger this or fix this via just the keyboard and no display?
Click to expand...

Well first thing is to make sure you know precisely which HDMI port you're using, presuming you have more than one. For example, if you're plugged into HDMI 2 but looking at HDMI 1, of course you're seeing nothing - worth noting that not every set is programmed to switch just because it detects a signal. Secondly, are you using the same cable that you used with your own monitor? If not, then it could be a problem of the cable being used, for whatever reason.

...Otherwise, yeah, there's not much that can be done without the display I think.
 
Joco said:
Which games do you play that you were hoping for 144 or above?
Click to expand...

Pretty much any modern 3rd party game. Games that really wouldn't benefit. I could probably get high frame-rates on Overwatch and Rocket League, but Rise of the Tomb Raider, Witcher 3, won't and don't really need it.

I just thought it would be nice to try out. Although I was also thinking that if and when my hardware starts getting more stressed out there would be less chance of tearing, although there might be more. I honestly don't follow monitor tech. I also thought that I might be able to lock frame rates at something like 45fps on it without getting stuttering down the road.

I guess I didn't really expect to get 144 or above on those games, but I was going to try with others. I just realized there aren't many situations where it's feasible or worth while.
 
Would I get any noticable upgrade with a 1080 on a 2500k @4.5 or is it about time to upgrade that if I'm wanting a current gen video card? I currently have a 980. I game at 1080p and yes I know its overkill but you kind of need that with bad ports now anyway.
 
Branson said:
Would I get any noticable upgrade with a 1080 on a 2500k @4.5 or is it about time to upgrade that if I'm wanting a current gen video card? I currently have a 980. I game at 1080p and yes I know its overkill but you kind of need that with bad ports now anyway.
Click to expand...

What games is your GTX 980 struggling with at 1080p? I'm on 1080p and my GTX 780 Ti hasn't had any issues maxing any of my games including BF1. Also what's the max refresh rate of your monitor, 60hz?
 
So my old Ivy Bridge i5 3570K PC is dead and I've narrowed it down to a bad motherboard. If I wanted to upgrade just the motherboard and CPU, would I be able to keep my install of Windows 10 or do I have to get a new license? If it helps any, this was an MSDN Windows 7 Pro license that was upgraded to 10.
 
Celcius said:
What games is your GTX 980 struggling with at 1080p? I'm on 1080p and my GTX 780 Ti hasn't had any issues maxing any of my games including BF1. Also what's the max refresh rate of your monitor, 60hz?
Click to expand...

Hitman 2016 chugs maxed out, Deus Ex MD chugs a bit, down to 45-50 fps, Im aiming for a steady 60. BF1 seems like a greatly optimized game too, so that doesnt surprise me.

I guess I dont know if its a CPU bottleneck or what.

Would a CPU upgrade serve me better? It would certainly help the ol bank account lol.
 
Nightz said:
So my old Ivy Bridge i5 3570K PC is dead and I've narrowed it down to a bad motherboard. If I wanted to upgrade just the motherboard and CPU, would I be able to keep my install of Windows 10 or do I have to get a new license? If it helps any, this was an MSDN Windows 7 Pro license that was upgraded to 10.
Click to expand...
The product key is saved to the motherboard. If you were on the anniversary update and have a microsoft account linked to it, you can activate Windows 10 by using the "I recently made changes to my hardware" option. Otherwise your only other options are trying to use the Windows 7 key (not a guarantee) or contact Microsoft support.

In the end, you may have to buy a new key.
 
ZeroMaverick said:
Ah, ran into another issue. I (ignorantly) left the computer's monitor at my parents' place because I thought (possibly ignorantly) that I could just plug the PC into my TV via HDMI and it would just work. So far, I haven't been able to get the TV to recognize the HDMI signal coming from the PC. Was there something I was supposed to do before leaving the monitor behind (like selecting HDMI out for display or something?)? Is there any way I can trigger this or fix this via just the keyboard and no display?
Click to expand...
Ah, I'm well versed in this struggle. The first time, I went to bed and it worked when I woke up and booted the computer. The second time I cleared the CMOS and it worked after a couple or restarts.
 
I'm having the weirdest issue with my computer. It's randomly turning off then on. There's no bsod. It's not overheating. It's just off then on like I shut it down then restarted it. At first I thought I was accidently hitting the reset on the power board by mistake except it happened when my feet were nowhere near the board. This has happened 3 times now. I just bought this power supply this year. (It's an EVGA 75062 NOVA) so I'm really hoping that's not the problem.

I just started having this issue in the last few weeks though.

There is this high sort of whining noise though. I'm not sure what it is.

...nvm I just checked the back of my PC and the power cord was like...barely in. I'm a moron. *facepalms*
 
So the woman got me a m.2 ssd for christmas(already have a smaller sata one). I knew I'd have to get a pcie adapter but never considered it not being bootable. My mobo doesn't have nvme support without making a custom bios and I'm not wanting to mess with all that. And I've been wanting to go skylake for a while now anyway, so..

So I've parted out new mobo, proc, and ram. But - fucking windows.

I had a full retail of 7 ultimate and did free 10 upgrade. Looks like I have to get new copy? I don't think I have the original win7 disk. Can I get away w/ just the key? Sounds like there's weird fuckery around that now? I've seen the tool for scraping your key - not product id.. whatever. I thought I was going to need it after a re-install but windows worked it out.

Can someone ELI5 this for me? I've been googling but just keep seeing confusing canned response. I think if I have the full retail of 7 the upgrade is bound to that but I need to install 7 first and then upgrade? But if I don't have original media? Maybe can get around with linking to MS account? What do?

HALP

I don't want to have to buy full copy of 10 if I don't have to.

Most expensive gift, ever. :lol

edit:
StoneFox said:
The product key is saved to the motherboard. If you were on the anniversary update and have a microsoft account linked to it, you can activate Windows 10 by using the "I recently made changes to my hardware" option. Otherwise your only other options are trying to use the Windows 7 key (not a guarantee) or contact Microsoft support.

In the end, you may have to buy a new key.
Click to expand...
I do have an MS account linked. Hmm.

If my current PC is linked as a device am I safe to upgrade and use "recent change"? I think the only hardware carrying over is the vidcard and some storage.
 
So I just got an Acer Z35. Its an amazing display, but for some it seams as though my display is moved a few pixels down. This doesn't happen in games, just everything else.

Check out this image:http://imgur.com/a/vTuYj

Noticed the blue lines at the top of the screen, and notice that chrome has no blue underline(it should because it's an active app).

I have a GTX 980.

Is there something I can do to correct this? I have no idea what setting I should set.
 
naib said:
So the woman got me a m.2 ssd for christmas(already have a smaller sata one). I knew I'd have to get a pcie adapter but never considered it not being bootable. My mobo doesn't have nvme support without making a custom bios and I'm not wanting to mess with all that. And I've been wanting to go skylake for a while now anyway, so..

So I've parted out new mobo, proc, and ram. But - fucking windows.

I had a full retail of 7 ultimate and did free 10 upgrade. Looks like I have to get new copy? I don't think I have the original win7 disk. Can I get away w/ just the key? Sounds like there's weird fuckery around that now? I've seen the tool for scraping your key - not product id.. whatever. I thought I was going to need it after a re-install but windows worked it out.

Can someone ELI5 this for me? I've been googling but just keep seeing confusing canned response. I think if I have the full retail of 7 the upgrade is bound to that but I need to install 7 first and then upgrade? But if I don't have original media? Maybe can get around with linking to MS account? What do?

HALP

I don't want to have to buy full copy of 10 if I don't have to.

Most expensive gift, ever. :lol

edit:

I do have an MS account linked. Hmm.

If my current PC is linked as a device am I safe to upgrade and use "recent change"? I think the only hardware carrying over is the vidcard and some storage.
Click to expand...

Yeah using ms account and recent change should work.
 
Is there any new stuff/ info coming in the next 1-3 month? I'm thinking about getting my first PC
 
Åesop;227246626 said:
Is there any new stuff/ info coming in the next 1-3 month? I'm thinking about getting my first PC
Click to expand...

I think that it's just the new 7 series of Intel CPUs, new screen announcements from CES, and the 960 evo from Samsung might be easier to get hold of in markets where it's currently OOS.
 
I was wondering if I could get some recommendations for a PC I'm building for my brother at the end of January. The budget is going to be around £600 for the PC only, no peripherals, monitor or OS needed. It will be a gaming PC hooked up to a TV so only needs to run games at 1080p, and my brother isn't too much of a stickler for pushing all the graphics settings to max, although 60fps would be great if it's possible at this price point. I'm also happy to not have an SSD to help with price, a lot of storage for media along with the gaming is pretty important.

As a baseline for gaming, I think the most demanding game he'll be looking to play is Gears Of War 4 at this point.

I would also like to make the actual box fairly small, so a micro or mini- ATX would be ideal. I don't think we'll be playing around with overclocking either.

Thanks!
 
What's the deal GAF, should I throw my money down on a 6700K now, or just wait for a 7700K? Need to upgrade my i7860 :P

Any idea the release date of the 7700K? And why are some people saying it is going to be a dud?
 
SpyGuy239 said:
What's the deal GAF, should I throw my money down on a 6700K now, or just wait for a 7700K? Need to upgrade my i7860 :P

Any idea the release date of the 7700K? And why are some people saying it is going to be a dud?
Click to expand...

It'll have the same performance as a 6700k but you get some new platform features with Z270. Doubt the price will differ much so at this stage you may as well wait. But even if you did buy z170-6700k your not missing much.

Intel is now on a 3 phase cycle of from the prior tick-tick cycle, so progress is more incremental until then start of a new cycle - every 3 years.
 
I was initially thinking about getting the KS8000 TV for my PC with the intent of replacing my aging monitor for my gaming set up, but from research have found that monitors have less input lag. Is there anything keeping me, from say, hooking up my PC and Xbox one to a bad ass monitor? I feed my cable TV through the Xbox, so I intend on watching cable TV, standard PC gaming, and console gaming (xbox one and possibly a switch).
 
LilJoka said:
It'll have the same performance as a 6700k but you get some new platform features with Z270. Doubt the price will differ much so at this stage you may as well wait. But even if you did buy z170-6700k your not missing much.

Intel is now on a 3 phase cycle of from the prior tick-tick cycle, so progress is more incremental until then start of a new cycle - every 3 years.
Click to expand...
So when would the new cycle start? I am on a i5-2500k and I am thinking of upgrading to an i5-6600k or maybe even an i7-6700k (for star citizen). But I can wait a year or two I guess. My i5-2500k should still serve me well if I only upgrade my graphics card to a 1070 and my monitor to a 1440p 144hz, right?
 
SpyGuy239 said:
What's the deal GAF, should I throw my money down on a 6700K now, or just wait for a 7700K? Need to upgrade my i7860 :P

Any idea the release date of the 7700K? And why are some people saying it is going to be a dud?
Click to expand...

if you can wait then go for the 7700K. it shouldn't be too much longer now. a 6700K is still a really good choice though. the 7700K won't be much of an improvement. it will have a higher stock clock speed/turbo boost compared to the 6700K but the same IPC which means if you lock both to 4.0GHz they will perform the same. other than that it will add support for things like usb 3.1 gen 2, improve support for 3d/4k playback, and support for HDCP 2.2.

masterkajo said:
So when would the new cycle start? I am on a i5-2500k and I am thinking of upgrading to an i5-6600k or maybe even an i7-6700k (for star citizen). But I can wait a year or two I guess. My i5-2500k should still serve me well if I only upgrade my graphics card to a 1070 and my monitor to a 1440p 144hz, right?
Click to expand...

wait for coffeelake or icelake. cannonlake which will replace kabylake will be low powered SoC's. Coffeelake is the desktop cannonlake cpu's and will have more cores/threads but will still be 14nm same as kabylake. Icelake will be the first 10nm desktop CPU's
 
Prurient said:
I was wondering if I could get some recommendations for a PC I'm building for my brother at the end of January. The budget is going to be around £600 for the PC only, no peripherals, monitor or OS needed. It will be a gaming PC hooked up to a TV so only needs to run games at 1080p, and my brother isn't too much of a stickler for pushing all the graphics settings to max, although 60fps would be great if it's possible at this price point. I'm also happy to not have an SSD to help with price, a lot of storage for media along with the gaming is pretty important.

As a baseline for gaming, I think the most demanding game he'll be looking to play is Gears Of War 4 at this point.

I would also like to make the actual box fairly small, so a micro or mini- ATX would be ideal. I don't think we'll be playing around with overclocking either.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Here's a start point
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£179.99 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£68.05 @ Alza)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£43.82 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.00 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card (£188.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case (£66.44 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Edison M 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£53.40 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £675.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-27 12:27 GMT+0000
 
masterkajo said:
So when would the new cycle start? I am on a i5-2500k and I am thinking of upgrading to an i5-6600k or maybe even an i7-6700k (for star citizen). But I can wait a year or two I guess. My i5-2500k should still serve me well if I only upgrade my graphics card to a 1070 and my monitor to a 1440p 144hz, right?
Click to expand...

2500k won't let you push 144fps, 72fps should be fine. The problem with this CPU is that minimum fps suffers which can cause some stutter and you won't be able to maintain such high fps. Even with a heavy OC. With a really heavy OC and games that aren't too CPU intensive I can see it being dragged out another year with a 1070, but I suspect some bottleneck will be present.
 
LilJoka said:
It'll have the same performance as a 6700k but you get some new platform features with Z270. Doubt the price will differ much so at this stage you may as well wait. But even if you did buy z170-6700k your not missing much.

Intel is now on a 3 phase cycle of from the prior tick-tick cycle, so progress is more incremental until then start of a new cycle - every 3 years.
Click to expand...

blly155 said:
if you can wait then go for the 7700K. it shouldn't be too much longer now. a 6700K is still a really good choice though. the 7700K won't be much of an improvement. it will have a higher stock clock speed/turbo boost compared to the 6700K but the same IPC which means if you lock both to 4.0GHz they will perform the same. other than that it will add support for things like usb 3.1 gen 2, improve support for 3d/4k playback, and support for HDCP 2.2.
Click to expand...

Thanks all. Everything I needed to know. I'll wait even though I'm impatient with tech :P I've waited this long with my 860 anyway.
 
LilJoka said:
Here's a start point
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£179.99 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£68.05 @ Alza)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£43.82 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Toshiba 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£75.00 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card (£188.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case (£66.44 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Edison M 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£53.40 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £675.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-27 12:27 GMT+0000
Click to expand...

This looks like a great jumping off point, much obliged!
 
Ok so i'm picking parts for a new rig and i need some feedback, please.

I'm looking into configurating my own rig that'll then be built by the manufacturer shop. I'm neither able nor willing to build myself :/

I'd like to play the newest bunch of sim/ strategy/ building games in nice (1080p) quality without any bottlenecks. I know that these kind of games (Planet Coaster, Cities: Skylines, Anno etc.) are not only GPU- but also comparatively quite CPU-dependent.

Case: AZZA Taurus 5000W (5 x 120 mm fans included, 2 front, 2 top, 1 at the back)
Mainboard: MSI Z170A Gaming M3
PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 600 W (80+)
CPU: i7 6700k (overcl. by said shop to 4,8 GHz)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 4
RAM: 16 GB DDR4
GPU: Palit Jetstream GTX 1070 8 GB
240 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD
Win 10

Am i overshooting it with an overclocked i7? I'm really afraid of being bottlenecked in those games. And is the cooling solution (case and CPU cooler) sufficient for putting it under stress?

Any other points i should consider or replace? Can i save some bucks without sacrificing too much?
 
So is G-Sync actually worth the money? I've got the setup to run it, but getting a compatible monitor seems like a pretty huge expense.
 
Yoshi88 said:
Ok so i'm picking parts for a new rig and i need some feedback, please.

I'm looking into configurating my own rig that'll then be built by the manufacturer shop. I'm neither able nor willing to build myself :/

I'd like to play the newest bunch of sim/ strategy/ building games in nice (1080p) quality without any bottlenecks. I know that these kind of games (Planet Coaster, Cities: Skylines, Anno etc.) are not only GPU- but also comparatively quite CPU-dependent.

Case: AZZA Taurus 5000W (5 x 120 mm fans included, 2 front, 2 top, 1 at the back)
Mainboard: MSI Z170A Gaming M3
PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 600 W (80+)
CPU: i7 6700k (overcl. by said shop to 4,8 GHz)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 4
RAM: 16 GB DDR4
GPU: Palit Jetstream GTX 1070 8 GB
240 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD
Win 10

Am i overshooting it with an overclocked i7? I'm really afraid of being bottlenecked in those games. And is the cooling solution (case and CPU cooler) sufficient for putting it under stress?

Any other points i should consider or replace? Can i save some bucks without sacrificing too much?
Click to expand...

For the specific games listed at 1080p you are so far overkilled you shot for the top of a building and landed on the moon xP. That's an overclocked 6th gen i7 for a game that recommends a stock clock i5-2400s or 3470 (Anno, Cities Skyline)

Here's a build based on overshooting the recommended system requirements for all those games. It's way paired back and probably a fraction of the price.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($44.98 @ Jet)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB XXX OC Video Card ($235.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Phanteks ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Total: $878.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-27 12:55 EST-0500
Click to expand...

Based on the recommended requirements this is still quite a bit of overkill.

The Tower is just a personal choice if you're looking to save money you can swap it for a cheaper one or go with the more expensive one from your build. It doesn't have an optical drive bay if that's important to you. I also chose a somewhat cheap MOBO it's still a Z170 though.
 
Yoshi88 said:
Ok so i'm picking parts for a new rig and i need some feedback, please.

I'm looking into configurating my own rig that'll then be built by the manufacturer shop. I'm neither able nor willing to build myself :/

I'd like to play the newest bunch of sim/ strategy/ building games in nice (1080p) quality without any bottlenecks. I know that these kind of games (Planet Coaster, Cities: Skylines, Anno etc.) are not only GPU- but also comparatively quite CPU-dependent.

Case: AZZA Taurus 5000W (5 x 120 mm fans included, 2 front, 2 top, 1 at the back)
Mainboard: MSI Z170A Gaming M3
PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 600 W (80+)
CPU: i7 6700k (overcl. by said shop to 4,8 GHz)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 4
RAM: 16 GB DDR4
GPU: Palit Jetstream GTX 1070 8 GB
240 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD
Win 10

Am i overshooting it with an overclocked i7? I'm really afraid of being bottlenecked in those games. And is the cooling solution (case and CPU cooler) sufficient for putting it under stress?

Any other points i should consider or replace? Can i save some bucks without sacrificing too much?
Click to expand...

for a long time people would not recommend an i7 over an i5 unless you were doing heavy non gaming tasks but more and more recently an i7 is needed for newer games even at 1080p. if you're going to be playing sim games then an i7 is a no brainer.

not sure about your cooler but the Cooler Master 212 is still popular or get a Cryorig H7 i see them recommended a lot. as for your CPU getting 4.8 well good luck with that. it is possible but unless they pick out and test multiple CPU's to get one than can do 4.8 with a safe voltage then it'll just come down to luck. my i7-6700K is at 4.5GHz with 1.335V. all 6700K's should manage 4.5GHz. to get to 4.6GHz I'd need to go over 1.4V and no way am i doing that.
 
So Im deciding to put some ram in my old PC to hold off a new build.

Core i5-750
2x2GB DDR3 1600mhz
gtx650

I want to round out my ram. I can get 2x2gb 1333mhz chips (for 30 bucks CAD) so I have 8gb total . Would that loss in frequency matter much if I am now rolling in quad channel?
 
Help here
I'm building new PC
Got used msi GTX 770 (2X 8pins)

I want motherboard that support DDR4 and i5 6400 or 6500

The PC shop engineer told me that card doesn't support a motherboard with DDR4 and skylake CPU.

Now i am confused,why GTX 770 doesn't support new motherboards?
 
L.O.R.D said:
Help here
I'm building new PC
Got used msi GTX 770 (2X 8pins)

I want motherboard that support DDR4 and i5 6400 or 6500

The PC shop engineer told me that card doesn't support a motherboard with DDR4 and skylake CPU.

Now i am confused,why GTX 770 doesn't support new motherboards?
Click to expand...

PCI-E slots are fully backwards compatible. So I'm guessing he doesn't know what he is talking about.
 
blly155 said:
for a long time people would not recommend an i7 over an i5 unless you were doing heavy non gaming tasks but more and more recently an i7 is needed for newer games even at 1080p. if you're going to be playing sim games then an i7 is a no brainer.

not sure about your cooler but the Cooler Master 212 is still popular or get a Cryorig H7 i see them recommended a lot. as for your CPU getting 4.8 well good luck with that. it is possible but unless they pick out and test multiple CPU's to get one than can do 4.8 with a safe voltage then it'll just come down to luck. my i7-6700K is at 4.5GHz with 1.335V. all 6700K's should manage 4.5GHz. to get to 4.6GHz I'd need to go over 1.4V and no way am i doing that.
Click to expand...

bomblord1 said:
For the specific games listed at 1080p you are so far overkilled you shot for the top of a building and landed on the moon xP. That's an overclocked 6th gen i7 for a game that recommends a stock clock i5-2400s or 3470 (Anno, Cities Skyline)

Here's a build based on overshooting the recommended system requirements for all those games. It's way paired back and probably a fraction of the price.



Based on the recommended requirements this is still quite a bit of overkill.

The Tower is just a personal choice if you're looking to save money you can swap it for a cheaper one or go with the more expensive one from your build. It doesn't have an optical drive bay if that's important to you. I also chose a somewhat cheap MOBO it's still a Z170 though.
Click to expand...


Ok, probably overdid it. Guess that what happens, when you surround yourselves for years with high-end PC discussions, planning for your first nice self-picked rig. It's easy to get lost in all those 1440p/4k/whatnot-discussions :D

Thank both of you for your comments, will look into your points and think some things over.
 
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