KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

LooseLips said:
See, so was I - and it was fine BUT the TV remembers settings for each input, so my Xbox would automatically have game mode and a few other changes I did enabled, each time I switch to it. When I was using my receiver, It was in effect only one input in the TV, so I'd have to manually do this every time. Unless I am missing something?

Now I just use ARC to my AV receiver for the surround sound...it feels a bit...wasted..
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This is where I am now too. I run the PS4 and Tivo separately from the receiver which has bluray player, PC, chromecast...

PS4 so I can keep game mode settings on its own input. Tivo because it does not have HDMI-CEC so it does not auto-switch inputs.

ARC back to receiver.
 
LooseLips said:
See, so was I - and it was fine BUT the TV remembers settings for each input, so my Xbox would automatically have game mode and a few other changes I did enabled, each time I switch to it. When I was using my receiver, It was in effect only one input in the TV, so I'd have to manually do this every time.
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The TV remembers all your picture settings for Game Mode separately than Movie mode, so I basically have two sets of settings I toggle between. All my game systems share the same Game Mode settings which work fine. And yes, I have to turn Game Mode on and off depending on whether I'm playing a game or not. But I don't see that as a big deal. Let's assume everything's already turned on:

1) Select proper input on receiver
2) Switch game mode on or off (if necessary) on TV

That's pretty much it. If you use the TV to watch Netflix or something, then just select the "TV" input on the receiver which has the optical cable run to it and you have sound. That optical out always works with no shenanigans. There is no difference in audio quality between optical and ARC.

On the other hand, if you run your PC or game system to the TV first, and then out through ARC or optical, you are potentially sacrificing sound quality because ARC/Optical only supports 5.1 audio.

I don't have any kind of HDMI-CEC or auto-switching turned on because in my experience it sometimes switches when I don't want it to, or ARC simply stops working properly. Sometimes I want to start a firmware update on my PS4, then watch/play something else, and not have the TV automatically switch back over to it when it's done, right when I'm trying to kill the boss on the other game. That kind of stuff irks me, so it could just be personal preference.
 
Does anyone else's ks8000 screen occasionally itself off for about 2 seconds?

Started doing it a few weeks ago, feel like it getting more frequent.
 
Anyone else getting small white bubbles on their screen? I noticed a really small one dead center of my screen which annyoyed me, but it was really small so I left it alone. Then this weekend, 2 bigger bubbles about double the size of the first one appreared on the right side of the screen but not the edge. My tv is hung high on the wall and never gets hit so it's not physical damage. I called Geek Squad and they are coming out to look at it. They mentioned that my panel may have to be replaced. I'm just happy I bought the 2 year warranty. This is annoying.
 
As a long time Samsung enthusiast who has always indulged in their preset overblown picture settings, I'm hooked on the calibrated look.

After doing some research on why HDR games looked too dark at night, I decided to try some things.

Turned off AMP, DC, Smart LED, and pretty much anything else that fucks with the picture. Dropped Sharpness to 0 and switched to Warm 1 (working my way up to Warm 2).

Wow. What a difference. Sure, I was jonezing for Dynamic Contrast for like ... 20 minutes. But then Horizon switched from day to night, and I could actually keep playing!

Blacks are inky. Skintone is lovely. Ghost Recon looks like a NatGeo program.

And soft content? It looks soft -- as it should. If you haven't tried turning of Dynamic Contrast ... do it! You won't be able to go back.
 
WheelHoss1 said:
As a long time Samsung enthusiast who has always indulged in their preset overblown picture settings, I'm hooked on the calibrated look.

After doing some research on why HDR games looked too dark at night, I decided to try some things.

Turned off AMP, DC, Smart LED, and pretty much anything else that fucks with the picture. Dropped Sharpness to 0 and switched to Warm 1 (working my way up to Warm 2).

Wow. What a difference. Sure, I was jonezing for Dynamic Contrast for like ... 20 minutes. But then Horizon switched from day to night, and I could actually keep playing!

Blacks are inky. Skintone is lovely. Ghost Recon looks like a NatGeo program.

And soft content? It looks soft -- as it should. If you haven't tried turning of Dynamic Contrast ... do it! You won't be able to go back.
Click to expand...
AMP? So you weren't using game mode? How did you manage to play with the insane input lag? O.o
 
WheelHoss1 said:
Turned off ... Smart LED...Blacks are inky.
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Are you playing in a lit room? Are your ECO settings turned off?

From what I understand, no Smart LED means that if one part of the screen needs to be bright, all the LEDs need to ramp up in brightness, even the ones on the dark side of the screen, which should lead to less-than-inky blacks in those situations. Smart LED is just local dimming.
 
Honestly I tried all the settings for Smart LED and didn't notice a huge difference so I'm fine with putting it on High

As for Dynamic Contrast -- I think it comes down to taste.

With it off Horizon is like an impressionist painting with all these natural tones blending together.

As soon as I turn it to even Low I does 2 things: make the picture pop more, and add a lot of artificial processing to the image especially with the black tones.

So honestly I think it looks good both ways and will just adjust for the game. For Ratchet I'm sure I would want it on!
 
Imp the Dimp said:
If I hook my PC up to the TV and play it in game mode, do I still have to set sharpness at 50?
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If it is in Game Mode, then Sharpness should be set the same as normal (0-20 depending on taste). If the TV detects a PC and it goes into "PC Mode" then sharpness will default to 50 unless you've changed it. It won't say "PC Mode". I think it just says "Standard" but you'll know because Game Mode will be grayed out and the icon for that input will be/say PC. I can't remember this exactly as my TV stopped auto-detecting input sources some time back (I'm glad, BTW). If you change the name/icon of the input to Game System (or any of the other options) you'll be able to turn Game Mode on.
 
Enabling hdr in lets say uncharted 4 lost legacy. I turn my backlight to 20 and leave my tv brightness to 50. Do i have to retweak the brightness ingame after i enable hdr?
 
Dr. Zoidberg said:
If it is in Game Mode, then Sharpness should be set the same as normal (0-20 depending on taste). If the TV detects a PC and it goes into "PC Mode" then sharpness will default to 50 unless you've changed it. It won't say "PC Mode". I think it just says "Standard" but you'll know because Game Mode will be grayed out and the icon for that input will be/say PC. I can't remember this exactly as my TV stopped auto-detecting input sources some time back (I'm glad, BTW). If you change the name/icon of the input to Game System (or any of the other options) you'll be able to turn Game Mode on.
Click to expand...

Are you 100% positive about not increasing the sharpness in game mode when playing on PC? It looks way better and I can't seem to detect artifacts either. I think I'll leave it on until I notice something of that sort.
 
WheelHoss1 said:
Honestly I tried all the settings for Smart LED and didn't notice a huge difference so I'm fine with putting it on High

As for Dynamic Contrast -- I think it comes down to taste.

With it off Horizon is like an impressionist painting with all these natural tones blending together.

As soon as I turn it to even Low I does 2 things: make the picture pop more, and add a lot of artificial processing to the image especially with the black tones.

So honestly I think it looks good both ways and will just adjust for the game. For Ratchet I'm sure I would want it on!
Click to expand...

With Dynamic Contrast I've kept on changing between the settings since I got the tv 8 months ago, but recently seem to have settled with it off and put the colour setting up to 60-65 to give it more pop.
 
I have Smart LED set to low, and Dynamic Contrast set to off, and my picture looks fine. I also have the Colour Space and White Balance set to default. My blacks look perfect. The TV does have a habit of dimming and brightening when switching between dark/light scenes, though, which can be distracting.
 
MizzouRah said:
Yup. Not with built in apps. Only hdmi sources.
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Have only noticed it this way too.

If it's just some sort of hdmi syncing issue I can live with the occasional 2 second blackout. I don't want to lose my tv for a repair run.

Hasn't happened since my last post.
 
Symphonia said:
I have Smart LED set to low, and Dynamic Contrast set to off, and my picture looks fine. I also have the Colour Space and White Balance set to default. My blacks look perfect. The TV does have a habit of dimming and brightening when switching between dark/light scenes, though, which can be distracting.
Click to expand...

I have noticed this in games like Horizon and Ghost Recon

But when i turn of HDR it looks so bland I deal with the drawbacks

HDR is a new tech and bound to have some kinks to work out
 
Imp the Dimp said:
Are you 100% positive about not increasing the sharpness in game mode when playing on PC?
Click to expand...

What I'm saying is that if the TV is really in Game Mode while the PC output is on-screen, then you would treat the PC the same as any console in regards to settings including sharpness. However, if the TV auto-detects the PC and puts itself into 4:4:4/PC Mode (The TV will say the mode is "Standard"), then the default/neutral setting is 50, so if it is in PC mode then you should at least set it to 50, and higher according to taste. It just depends on what mode the TV is in since the neutral setting for sharpness is dependent on that.

Either way, if you think it looks better with more sharpness, then go ahead. Your eyes are the ultimate judge.
 
I don't think I get the notification when I press the button. Haven't had it since 1180. I do get the notification on Amazon that an HDR video is playing.
 
how to force quit Netflix? If you hold back button on every app, it closes completely except Netflix.
 
BeforeU said:
how to force quit Netflix? If you hold back button on every app, it closes completely except Netflix.
Click to expand...

It should work for netflix. But if it doesn't use the netflix settings to exit or reload the application. Scroll up in the app to see the 'gear' icon.
 
Belker said:
I don't think I get the notification when I press the button. Haven't had it since 1180. I do get the notification on Amazon that an HDR video is playing.
Click to expand...

VincentMatts said:
I'm on 1180 and I don't get any popups anymore

Edit: did a reset, still nothing
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Not to split hairs, but I'm not talking about the pop-up that says "An HDR video is playing" or whatever. I just mean the little HDR icon that shows on the source info banner — where it shows the input name, resolution, etc. It only shows up – as you'd expect – when HDR content is playing.
 
vatstep said:
Not to split hairs, but I'm not talking about the pop-up that says "An HDR video is playing" or whatever. I just mean the little HDR icon that shows on the source info banner — where it shows the input name, resolution, etc. It only shows up – as you'd expect – when HDR content is playing.
Click to expand...
Yeah
 
On my KS8000, I used to be able to do a Soft Reset, where the SUHD logo came up, by holding down the power button on the remote. This kept all my settings. But doing this to the remote now no longer works. Any idea how I can do a Soft Reset now?
 
vatstep said:
Not to split hairs, but I'm not talking about the pop-up that says "An HDR video is playing" or whatever. I just mean the little HDR icon that shows on the source info banner — where it shows the input name, resolution, etc. It only shows up – as you'd expect – when HDR content is playing.
Click to expand...

Don't worry - we're talking about the same thing. I can't get that information to appear on my TV.
 
Welp, hooked up a Raspberry Pi 3 and randomly ARC no longer works with my Denon s710w. ARC is annoying. Tried a factory reset, swapped out cables, tried every combination of turning devices on, updated firmware on receiver...nada. When I click on sound settings, HDMI isn't even an option anymore when running a cable from HDMI 4(ARC) to the HDMI input on receiver.

I now have to hook all my devices up to my receiver directly instead of via the one connect box, and my smart tv apps need to run audio via optical.

Edit: unplugging my tv and plugging back in fixed it, ok....
 
Belker said:
Don't worry - we're talking about the same thing. I can't get that information to appear on my TV.
Click to expand...
That's... really stupid and can't possibly be intentional. Looks like I'll never be upgrading again.
 
Is this TV still one of the best options? I am torn between this and the Sony X900E. Both 55", but the Samsung would be $1000 vs Sony $1100 :/
 
Tried every thing to get my tv and sounbar to turn on and off at whenever i want and i failed.

Both Samsung products... oh well ill get used to always usingt two remote controls
 
RSH said:
On my KS8000, I used to be able to do a Soft Reset, where the SUHD logo came up, by holding down the power button on the remote. This kept all my settings. But doing this to the remote now no longer works. Any idea how I can do a Soft Reset now?
Click to expand...
Just found out it still works on the smart remote, but not the normal one
 
there's one that's like a standard rectangular shape with a cylindrical black back, and then one that looks vaguely sensual and is curved with a silver back
 
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