Reset the BIOS, either by removing the motherboard battery or shorting the pins next to it.Ugh!!! This morning I go to turn on my PC which I actually turned off for the first time in weeks.
Turn on computer
Gets to BIOS screen or whatever screen this is:
Just hangs there, eventually the fans go higher. Nothing.
I try to hit TAB, DEL but nothing.
What do I try first?
It just resets the BIOS to the stock settings. Since the BIOS configures your computer hardware you can experience all kinds of problems if it is not properly set up or corrupted. Of course, it's strange that it won't boot if you haven't had issues before, but still worth trying.
Ugh!!! This morning I go to turn on my PC which I actually turned off for the first time in weeks.
Turn on computer
Gets to BIOS screen or whatever screen this is:
Just hangs there, eventually the fans go higher. Nothing.
I try to hit TAB, DEL but nothing.
What do I try first?
Guess you don't have an AVC codec. This should have one:Every time I put my AVI video into Virtual Dub Mod, this comes up.
What is wrong?
It worked! Thank you very much.
Yes, SATA is backwards compatible.
Yup that's a normal PCI port.
The "I need a new PC" thread would be a better place for this question. Looking at these specs, if you upgraded your video card to something current you'd probably iron out a lot of the stuttering you're experiencing now. I don't think dual-GPU cards from that generation were ever the best for smooth, consistent performance.
I would think the best option is the 24V, 0.15A fan. I doubt the 12V fan would respond well to 24V. I'm no electrician, so I have no idea if a fan rated for 0.33A could cause any issues drawing from a source intended for a 0.20A fan.Hey, guys. It's not PC related but I've got to get a replacement 80mm fan for an amplifier. It looks just like a PC fan, all the same form factor.
The broken fan is a model RDH8025S (Xinruilian), 24V, 0.20A, 2-pin connector, brushless.
Just checking to see which of these fan specs would work which I found looking on eBay.
- 24V, 0.33A
- 24V 0.15A
- 12V, 0.2A
Bear in mind that this amp has been running relatively okay with the fan blades gunked up and broken for a while, except it cuts out. But we've now given it more ventilation and it'll be okay if the fan doesn't run as fast as the previous one. Just looking for some advice from somebody with knowledge in this area
Generally, if a device is rated for a higher amperage than the power source, the only issue is that the device will work with less power than designed for. For fans, this isn't a serious issue and they'll just be less effective (slower, due to less power). The upshot will be that the fan will be quieter than normally tested for, so there's that.
Okay, makes sense. With computer fans people tend to advise against high amperage fans, since they can supposedly draw more amps than the fan header can provide. I've always been a bit skeptical of this, but wasn't sure. On the other hand, for computers anyhow, it's perfectly fine to use, say, a 0.25A fan on a header that can provide a couple amps.
Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll go with the higher amperage one. More expensive but it's important as we use it a lot at work.
You may have windows installed twice. Go to the search bar in the start menu and serach for msconfig.exe and go to the boot tab and delete one of them.
A lot of people seem to be having problems with their Razer mice and the only thing i could suggest is waiting for the Windows 8 driver or installing an old one in compability mode.
Yup. Old TVs are basically CRT monitors with crappy resolution. For sound, the computer should have some kind of speaker audio plug. Anything that uses a 3.5mm jack should work.
