LowParry
Member
Thing is amazing. Stays at a steady 50C with temps when I'm playing Crysis 3 at ultra settings.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
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Thing is amazing. Stays at a steady 50C with temps when I'm playing Crysis 3 at ultra settings.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Welp the novelty of my new case wore off really quick. When I turned on my PC, my motherboard wouldnt post. I looked at what was going on and the red LED by the ram modules was red (I have the Asus P8Z68-V/GEN-3 board). Even when I reset the memory it still does the same thing and I tried taking out and re-sitting the ram sticks. Is my board fucked or is there another thing I can try to fix it? I'm using the Corsair Vengeance sticks.
Jesus, 75-80c? That scares the hell out of me..
That's a lot more comforting. What case do you have though?
SquiddyCracker
Banned
Been doing some more 95prime testing, and it looks like the highest my CPU goes up to is 60 (on average, cores are ranging from 58-61).
I guess I could overclock my 3750k a bit.
I guess I could overclock my 3750k a bit.
Sub 80? That's cold
Those were the good old days. GPU 100C? CPU 95C? Your fine, put more voltage into it!
cactrotofrbc
Member
Just got my HX750 after replacing my HX650. It was making an annoying chirping noise that's described in alot of customer reviews. I'm just gonna give the 650 to my parent's computer.
If anyone wants this free AC3 coupon, I'll leave it here. It's not my kind of game.
ACNA-NEPR-WQHZ-VZQE-CWCJ-CODA
www.geforce.com/freeassassincreed3
Wow thanks! Just redeemed it.
cpp_is_king
Member
I actually got the price down another $100 by using Amazon instead of Newegg. Any particular reason I should prefer Newegg? Like return policy etc? I know it seems like almost everyone buys from Newegg, there must be a reason right?
Edit: Actually quite a bit more, since Amazon has free shipping with Prime. I don't think Newegg does, does it?
No reason. Amazon actually one ups them by doing cross-shipment RMAs.
BTW, out of the OCN posts, this is by far the most accurate.
That right there is why they say Z77 optimized or whatever on the forums. Go with whatever set is cheaper, IMO.
Amazon is better. Less hassle, better shipping.
Before Amazon stocked anything of note Newegg.com was the best and bent over backwards for you. Not so anymore. Newegg is still good, but if you can get a part from Amazon I'll buy there first.
rohlfinator
Member
Oh well. I'm going Ivy + an upcoming GPU, then I'm going to replace the GPU mid/late 2014 with 2 Maxwells or similar.
Wait for Maxwell is the new Haswell.
I guess it's time to actually play some games.
Haha, yep. I'm still leaning toward upgrading to Haswell -- I need to get off this Phenom II, and then I should be good for a while.
The 7770 is pretty much the best bang for your buck in that price range, especially if you can get a GHz edition. It's a much better card than the 630.
Alright I'll probably place the order now then. 15$ rebate ends at the end of the month, do you think they'll honor it?
rohlfinator
Member
Yeah, you should be good as long as your receipt shows that you placed the order by the end of the month.
Looks ok. If you're buying the 3570K for overclocking, you'll need a z77 board - that h77 one won't overclock. I went for the gigabyte z77 mitx which also has some limitations (should get you to 4GHz easy enough) but is quite a bit cheaper than other ones. Cooler should be ok, but check if there are any fitting issues, mitx boards are tiny and some have issues with clearance for cooler.
kharma45 suggested not going with XFX because they have bad returns for the UK - consider the gigabyte above it - faster and a tiny bit cheaper too
Jzero
Member
1. For how long you've used it.
2. The condition it's currently in.
3. Compare it to Amazon price and reduce the price a bit.
is there such a thing as a wireless KVM switch? I want to use my mouse/keyboard with my new gaming PC (Arriving today) and also with my work laptop - both in my home office.
I'd hoped I could sync to two unifying receivers but logitech don't support that, so I need other options. Manually plugging/unplugging the receiver will be a PITA.
I'd hoped I could sync to two unifying receivers but logitech don't support that, so I need other options. Manually plugging/unplugging the receiver will be a PITA.
Search Anandtech, [H], OCN, etc. for similar parts in a 1-3 month timeframe barring any giant changes to price (new GPU sell offs, new socket, etc).
If you can't find the part, compare up and down a tier.
Found out I shot myself in the foot. Tried plugging brother's PSU into my board and same results unless only having the power switch header plugged in doesn't allow it to start but I highly doubt that.
I suppose I'll have to go look over the SFF build link real fast and then purchase another board ASAP. Either way I'll have to reformat my OS drive since they never play nice with motherboard changes unless anyone has any further experience on this.
Link
Is there a significant enough difference between these two if I plan on future OC? The $15 "rebate" card wouldn't hurt. The only thing I got out of it was:
Edit: Just to cover my bases:
Since I can't check if the CPU is dead:
Can you run a mobo without a CPU? Or does it require a working CPU to run? Or will a dead CPU prevent a working mobo from running? The thing was that with the ethernet plugged in, the port would light up and occasionally flash but I'm not sure if it's indicative of anything at all. Also when I hit the power, ethernet would go orange and green and then die out.
I suppose I'll have to go look over the SFF build link real fast and then purchase another board ASAP. Either way I'll have to reformat my OS drive since they never play nice with motherboard changes unless anyone has any further experience on this.
Link
Is there a significant enough difference between these two if I plan on future OC? The $15 "rebate" card wouldn't hurt. The only thing I got out of it was:
Edit: Just to cover my bases:
Since I can't check if the CPU is dead:
Can you run a mobo without a CPU? Or does it require a working CPU to run? Or will a dead CPU prevent a working mobo from running? The thing was that with the ethernet plugged in, the port would light up and occasionally flash but I'm not sure if it's indicative of anything at all. Also when I hit the power, ethernet would go orange and green and then die out.
Yeah try to avoid XFX, and go Gigabyte or MSI preferably. Sapphire and ASUS also do good 7850s too but their RMA isn't quite as good as the first two.
Change your RAM to this stuff https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-017-SA&tool=3
Optical drive to this if you for some reason really want a BR drive http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/...tm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=PCPartPicker
Change to Z77 to allow for overclocking as well for your motherboard. Also worth looking to see whether the Hyper 212 is compatible with the case and the mobo, some ITX can have mounting issues iirc from what mkenyon said and I'd imagine in the prodigy it might be a very tight squeeze.
For anyone in the market for a semi budget monitor, Newegg has a pretty good deal on this Asus today:
ASUS VS Series VS247H-P Black 23.6" 2ms LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 50000000:1 (ASCR) $209.99
Promo code: EMCXTWL23 - knocks it down to $149.99 and then there is a $20 mail in rebate.
ASUS VS Series VS247H-P Black 23.6" 2ms LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 50000000:1 (ASCR) $209.99
Promo code: EMCXTWL23 - knocks it down to $149.99 and then there is a $20 mail in rebate.
I see, comparing prices for an almost identical build ( barring differences due to replaced items , e.g 2600k -> 3770k ) it would cost roughly $2600 using the same site I bought my parts from during the past 12-18 months or w/e.
If the store's asking price is $2600 for a similar pc, what would be a fair and good offer? For a pc/parts that is in impeccable condition.
wow, that is a lot of case fans, lol.
Have fun. My build re-ignited my old passion of the PC. Things have come a long way, even since my last build in 09 where I just sort of slapped it all together without a care.
It makes me want to build another computer already, just for the sake of doing it, lol.
I think I have finalized my build -
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M - Intel Z77
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K
+cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ EVO
+thermal paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4 (4g)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance Black Low Profile 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600
GFX: GIGABYTE HD7970 Ultra Durable 3GB
OS HDD: Samsung SSD 840 Series - 128GB, Pro
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 - 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B5ST black
PSU: Seasonic M12II-750 Bronze (SS-750AM F3) 750W
Case: Fractal DEFINE R4 Black Pearl
+fans - 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
OS: Win 7 HP 64bit OEM
I will buy it in less than a month(maybe in under 14 days) and I am still open to changes and ideas.
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M - Intel Z77
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K
+cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ EVO
+thermal paste: Arctic Cooling MX-4 (4g)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance Black Low Profile 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600
GFX: GIGABYTE HD7970 Ultra Durable 3GB
OS HDD: Samsung SSD 840 Series - 128GB, Pro
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 - 1TB
Drive: ASUS DRW-24B5ST black
PSU: Seasonic M12II-750 Bronze (SS-750AM F3) 750W
Case: Fractal DEFINE R4 Black Pearl
+fans - 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM
OS: Win 7 HP 64bit OEM
I will buy it in less than a month(maybe in under 14 days) and I am still open to changes and ideas.
Under 70C is fine. You should run something Prime95 to see your max temp.
TerryLee81
Member
That's some nice stuff right there. Post pics of the build!
Deadpandas
Member
alright, thanks guys. made some changes to it - switched to a z77 motherboard, changed the video card to Gigabyte and the ram to the Samsung stuff.
it does seem that the cooler is going to have some problems with the case though, so I removed it. Is there any that will be compatible with it? Do I even need a fan?
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/KKq9
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
I'm stuck already. The screws are too short to join the motherboard to the case. I'm using the screws which came with the case.
I can get 2 in but it seems impossible to push down on the board to get the others in. There are spring like screws on the motherboard could they be causing the issue? Shall I push them in?
I can get 2 in but it seems impossible to push down on the board to get the others in. There are spring like screws on the motherboard could they be causing the issue? Shall I push them in?
Do you have these put into your case, and then trying to screw the MOBO screws threw the MOBO into the above pictured standoff screws?
I almost went crazy trying to find a combo of mini itx board and decent cooler. The case has plenty of room but the motherboard is tricky.
I'd stick with the stock cooler for a while unless you really want to overclock - that motherboard will only get you to 4GHz, maybe 4.2, so you don't need a huge cooler anyway.
If you do (either now or later), look at the Corsair H60. Closed loop water cooler which will easily fit on the CPU because that part is small, the cooling fins are moved to a radiator which mounts on one of your fan mounts.
Do you really need the bluray drive? Fine if you do (won't be able to play bluray movies without extra software though). But if not, and you download most stuff, you could put that money towards upgrading your 7850 to a 7870. just a thought.
Infinite Justice
Member
you should have some standoffs, which are brass colored "extenders" that have holes for the MB screws to go in.
you screw those in the case holes, place the MB on top, then screw the MB screws in those holes.
Not all cases have brass standoffs nowadays, there's a ton that come with risers preinstalled that look to be the same color as the motherboard tray. Which case, Gizmowned?
------------------------------------------------------
For those looking for a 27" IPS, the PB278Q is on sale for $650 today
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236294
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For those looking for a 27" IPS, the PB278Q is on sale for $650 today
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236294
cpp_is_king
Member
Yes, that's exactly how it works. Screw the brass screws directly into the case at the positions where there are holes in the case. Line up the MB on top, and then use actual screws to go through the MB holes and into the standoffs
memecomplex
Member
Thinking of going mini-ITX... Compact Splash or Caselabs S3?
Love the look of the S3, love the size of the Compact Splash... Decisions!
Love the look of the S3, love the size of the Compact Splash... Decisions!
JOIN US! Think of it this way - the Compact Splash is a limited run, S3 will be available going forward. Also they got up to 20 orders so it's now $20 cheaper than it was before! If you don't like it - sell it and get an S3. Win win!
memecomplex
Member
Haha, yeah I'm this close to pulling the trigger... dat integrated fill and drain port! If I do, I'm gonna bug ya for your parts list! (WC virgin)
Wait... so if I order on the last day it might get even cheaper? Or is the discount retroactive?
Any issues that you guys know of with:
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-750TX 750W
It's going to be overkill for my build in June/replacement since my power supply just died, but it's only $70 after rebates when the BP550 Plus is $63.
Edit: Nvm, it's a no brainer. Bought.
CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-750TX 750W
It's going to be overkill for my build in June/replacement since my power supply just died, but it's only $70 after rebates when the BP550 Plus is $63.
Edit: Nvm, it's a no brainer. Bought.
If you aren't set on having the smallest case possible, the S3 will be the way to go in terms of both features and capability. The Compact Splash will be more of a collector's item that really stands out as a cool piece of tech.
Discount is retroactive but the $20 off right now is the maximum discount. Also it doesn't list it on the website but if you want to order extra/different side panels they're $15 each. You can PM SHE LOVES E on Overclock.net or put it in the comments of your order.
mkenyon helped me spec out the WC system, I can forward along what he gave me. But any of the build threads on OC.net have basically what I'm getting anyway.
EDIT: I love the customizability of the case. Neat to get it just the colour I want with my name on there. (Though one of the surprise colours for the S3 was almost the exact blue I was getting anyway)
memecomplex
Member
Yeah, I'll have to compromise on my HDD if I go with the Splash, and it'll wreak havoc on my Steam Mover I think. But mini-ITX is all about size and compromises so the Splash makes sense. However, I LOVE the look of the S3 and that mobo layout, plus all those windows you can get for it would really let you show off the innards of your PC, which is something I desperately want after my windowless SG09.
I'm like a dog chasing my own tail!
Hey guys. My current PC is a: AMD 955BE @ 3.9Ghz, 12GB 1333Mhz DDR3 (2x4+2x8), samsung 830 128GB SSD, HD7950, Lian Li PC101B, Corsair TX650 PSU and some other stuff that's mostly irrelevant. I was thinking of the following upgrade this summer for around 500: Haswell 4670K, a good S1150 aircooler, a good S1150 board and a Fractal Design Define R4 (since the Lian Li has terrible airflow).
Now I was wondering if upgrading my memory to say: 16GB 1600Mhz is also needed, since the memory I'm using now is somewhat slower then what most people seem to use these days, or if this doesn't matter much in terms of real world performance. The only demanding stuff I'd use the PC for is gaming and some Matlab coding, however I don't really need the extra 4GB right now.
Now I was wondering if upgrading my memory to say: 16GB 1600Mhz is also needed, since the memory I'm using now is somewhat slower then what most people seem to use these days, or if this doesn't matter much in terms of real world performance. The only demanding stuff I'd use the PC for is gaming and some Matlab coding, however I don't really need the extra 4GB right now.
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