Vinterbird
Member
Trying to avoid reinstalling at the moment, but yes. Deleted Nvidia folders, ran the Driver Sweep from 3D Guru, and have rebooted the machine more then the entirety of 2012 as of today.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Trying to avoid reinstalling at the moment, but yes. Deleted Nvidia folders, ran the Driver Sweep from 3D Guru, and have rebooted the machine more then the entirety of 2012 as of today.
Deadpandas
Member
Ok, thanks for the help everyone. That's everything finished and I should be able to order them in a week or 2. Got the Sapphire card as well.
Now hopefully I can build it without burning the house down.
Now hopefully I can build it without burning the house down.
Though that may be the case, all RIVE's ship with LN2 mode enabled, and I do know for a fact that needs to be disabled in order to boot.
Other things to try out:
1) Press the Mem OK button while booting up
2) Reset CMOS
3) Update the BIOS with this method
4) Ensure that your CPU is seated properly and the power plug is seated and clipped in for CPU power.
5) Try booting with one stick of RAM, alternate which stick you are using to boot.
I'd try googling how to manually enable/disable physx in the binaries.
Awhile ago I broke one of the front usb 3.0 ports on my 500R case. Corsair sent a new front I/O port recently but after I installed it and connected the usb 3.0 to the motherboard (MSI P67A-C43 B3) the ports are not recognized at all. I'm not sure what to do now. To be clear the front usb ports did work before I broke one of them.
THE:MILKMAN
Member
I'll hold you to that! I have now ordered the parts and should have them installed by Saturday.
Quick dumb question....Is there anything different to installing the AMD CPU/Fan compared to Intel?
Never had AMD except my first ever pre-built PC back in the day.
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
Some more things now lol. I missed the 8 pin power plug above the CPU. After doing this I now have a display on the mobo for the temprature. Apparently I have to put in a EZ Plug 1.
When connecting everything up to PSU's do they have to be placed in certain places?
Windows prompted me to install USB 3.0 Drivers so I installed it that way. I don't know if I should try uninstalling them first and trying again. Where would you look to enable them in BIOS? I looked under USB settings in the BIOS and it looked like everything was enabled.
TerryLee81
Member
This may sound silly, but did you connect all the power connectors? There's the 24pin and a 8pin at the top of the board (and a 4pin, just checked the manual).
Edit: Ok I'm late.
DJ_Lae
Member
I haven't built an AMD PC since AM2 but I think the mechanism is the same on their current socket - heatsinks are far, far easier to install as you just place it on there, loop the bracket through and twist a lever on the one side. Done.
The RIVE is kind of an exception to the rule due to all of the extra power plugs that are made entirely for people who are overclocking with LN2, but generally the rule is:
"If it doesn't fit there, it doesn't go there. If it fits there, it goes there."
The ones you want to plug power to on the RIVE are circled in orange, the ones you don't are crossed in purple.
I'd try downloading them from your motherboard manufacturer's website, but Windows wouldn't prompt for installation unless they were enabled and detected.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
how do I wipe my OCZ vertex 3 SSD clean?
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
I missed the 8pin above the cpu but I'm still wondering if I've connected everything in the right places to the PSU or if I'm missing something.
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
Yup got them connected.
I have them connected to both the 24 pin atx and the 8 pin to the bottom next to the small 24 pin atx. Is that right?
THE:MILKMAN
Member
That sounds a lot better than the Intel system. My current Intel system was dead easy to build except the annoying heatsink.....took me 15 minutes to fit properly!
Easy way to remember:
Every device has two connections, data and power.
Storage drives will need two cables (flat SATA data and power connectors)
Video cards transmit data and some power through the gold fingers, but will need power cables. (6+2 PCI-E connectors)
Memory transmits both data and power through the gold fingers.
Motherboards need a CPU and ATX power (8/4 Pin and 24 Pin)
For miscellaneous stuff like the closed loop coolers will need power for their pumps (molex/sata/fan headers), fans (can get power from mobo or use 3 pin fan adapters to molex), LEDs (same as fans), etc.
Sounds like you're getting it worked out. Just make sure all peripherals have power and data (likely SATA) and you should be good.
Hell, since you had an error earlier, once you have your SSD or HDD connected properly I'd probably power on and let the system POST to make sure it's all good.
Apologies in advance for the poor photo quality. Didn't have any decent lighting in my room and I didn't want to go through too much trouble trying to get a nice picture while the insides look as messy as they currently do.
But anyways, here are the first pics of my $485 PC! (Well, before the Samsung 840 Pro)
I'm still not firing it up until the monitor gets here on Thursday, but I felt the need to do some tinkering, so I installed the 840 Pro and did some rudimentary cable management.
Getting really excited to try it out!
But anyways, here are the first pics of my $485 PC! (Well, before the Samsung 840 Pro)
I'm still not firing it up until the monitor gets here on Thursday, but I felt the need to do some tinkering, so I installed the 840 Pro and did some rudimentary cable management.
Getting really excited to try it out!
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
is there any way to get the cables behind the motherboard?
Lian Li Don't Play That.
(wish I could in my PC62)
Speaking of my PC-62. Here is the dimensions of the Compact Splash taped out onto my case.
Well, I haven't really had a ton of experience with it yet since it was shipped to me all assembled still. However, I must say, I was one of those people who didn't really "get" Lian Li cases, but after getting my hands on it and messing around with it a bit... Just like you said. It really is an incredible case. It's pretty obvious that it's an older case with the lack of much to help with cable management, but it is so incredibly solid. The thing just radiates incredible build quality. And also, the exterior is gorgeous. (I'll be getting pics of the outside of it once I get everything set up)
Haha. That's amazing.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
So since I come to terms that i need a new motherboard, i was looking at a couple options, the ASRock Extreme4 or the MSI MPower. Is the MPower worth it for the extra 50 bucks? Which one would OC better without drawing much power? I'm guessing both would be equally suitable for the Haswell chips.
So not even a refresh reveal at NVidia's conference?
2013 is a year of fail with PC hardware. Wait for Skylake and Maxwell I guess. And god damn I had another HDD in RAID1 fail. These things go out faster than light bulbs these days.
It might be possible. There's a lot of variation between CPUs, and motherboards determine some of the voltage needed too.
But I'd be concerned about noise and cooling with a stock cooler. If noise doesn't bother you, try it out. You could even start with 4.0 GHz, that should be safe on a stock cooler. But I'd consider a closed loop heatsink so you can safely get to 4.3-4.6 GHz without causing your PC to sound like it has a hairdryer in it.
2013 is a year of fail with PC hardware. Wait for Skylake and Maxwell I guess. And god damn I had another HDD in RAID1 fail. These things go out faster than light bulbs these days.
It might be possible. There's a lot of variation between CPUs, and motherboards determine some of the voltage needed too.
But I'd be concerned about noise and cooling with a stock cooler. If noise doesn't bother you, try it out. You could even start with 4.0 GHz, that should be safe on a stock cooler. But I'd consider a closed loop heatsink so you can safely get to 4.3-4.6 GHz without causing your PC to sound like it has a hairdryer in it.
I will give you a definitive answer tonight, as I'll be OC'ing Mr Pocket's build.
I really like the motherboard so far.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Oh man that motherboard looks awesome. What were your impressions with the ASRock Extreme4?
Great features, amazing price, but the thin PCB made me cringe. I'd recommend it to anyone who isn't an enthusiast as *the* Z77 board to get, but would never use it myself, if that makes sense.
But, this motherboard actually does look that pretty. Like jaw dropping pretty.
I'm getting better at taking good pictures, and I swear they increase the prettiness of whatever is being captured.That is art
I'm just going to mail you all the compact splash parts and let you build it
But, this motherboard actually does look that pretty. Like jaw dropping pretty.
GAF, I need some quick help. Kinda related to this topic.
My brothers friend bought an HP ENVY h8-1435 with the default card at the link, so he can add an nvidia GTX 550 Ti. He also bought a Antec 550W (I have double check the psu).
He's apparently having power issues. Not enough to the GPU, and I was basically just trying to make sure he had the 6 pin plugged in correctly.
My brothers on the road right now (also diff states) so I can't ask him for more info yet.
Any tips or help appreciated.
If I'm in the wrong, I apologize for using the thread.
My brothers friend bought an HP ENVY h8-1435 with the default card at the link, so he can add an nvidia GTX 550 Ti. He also bought a Antec 550W (I have double check the psu).
He's apparently having power issues. Not enough to the GPU, and I was basically just trying to make sure he had the 6 pin plugged in correctly.
My brothers on the road right now (also diff states) so I can't ask him for more info yet.
Any tips or help appreciated.
If I'm in the wrong, I apologize for using the thread.
What are you doing for lighting? Computers are so awkward to photograph.
MisterNoisy
Member
I've had good luck with the Stanley LED flashlights that have the little tripod built in, and then just adjusting the color balance in the Gimp to account for the bluish cast of the LEDs. As long as you don't use a flash and use a tripod for the camera, you're good most times, tho.
Also, that MSI board is a gorgeous piece of hardware.
Voice of Reason
Banned
Hey guys, I've posted in this thread before and you guys advised me on some of my specs on my potential build.
The GPU I was thinking about was the 7970 Ghz Ed. You guys think I should wait for the better AMD video cards at the end of the year? Or will the 7970 last me for a decent amount of next gen?
Since I've never bought and build a rig before, what would be the estimated price of a new high-end AMD GPU approximately?
The GPU I was thinking about was the 7970 Ghz Ed. You guys think I should wait for the better AMD video cards at the end of the year? Or will the 7970 last me for a decent amount of next gen?
Since I've never bought and build a rig before, what would be the estimated price of a new high-end AMD GPU approximately?
Ah, cool. Thanks for the tips!
I can tell you want the new case. I caught on to your subtle hints.
I'm going to send you my rig to take pictures.
Got my connectors, got my sleeving. Just need a crimping tool and some wire to actually make the cables!
MisterNoisy
Member
I almost guarantee that the card is starved. Buy a decent 500W+ PSU to replace whatever is in there (you may have gotten a bum PSU from Antec, in which case RMA it) and you'll be good to go.
That sucks.Well I'm at a loss. I can't find anway of getting the system on. It's a shame looks quite pretty.
Should try to take a picture of your board and the display lights on it for errors.
Jzero
Member
Did you connect the power button cable to the motherboard?Well I'm at a loss. I can't find anway of getting the system on. It's a shame looks quite pretty.
Well I'm at a loss. I can't find anway of getting the system on. It's a shame looks quite pretty.
Yeah post a pic of the debug LED, the board, and the leftover connectors. We will get it figured out.
hockeypuck
Member
Thanks for the replies. I did a very small overclock to 4 GHz and am quite pleased with the results. Did not change the voltage. For some reason my CPU doesn't boost from 3.4 to 3.8 GHz as often in-game as I would like it too, so having this constant 4 GHz running did make a noticeable improvement to my framerates. Fan noise is unchanged, temps maybe 3-4 degrees higher, at most.
Thanks for reply MisterNoisy
My brother said the PSU is Antec 550W
Edit: I'll let him know that if he's got everything hooked up correctly, prob might be the psu
VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
Pics might be a tad dark got shit lighting so I had to use the flash. Some more here - http://gizmowned.minus.com/
Should I remove the Cmos battery for 10 minutes?
Should I remove the Cmos battery for 10 minutes?
The max Intel boost, like from 3.4 to 3.8GHz, only happens in one core. If a software uses more cores, the boost will be even lower depending on how many cores are used. For example, if a game uses all 4 cores, it's only going to boost to 3.5GHz for all cores. That's why overclocking is much better. In you case, you overclock all cores to 4GHz.
Well I'm at a loss. I can't find anway of getting the system on. It's a shame looks quite pretty.
Time for some good old fashion brute force process of elimination:
1. Is your PSU plugged into a good outlet? Some houses and apartments have outlets that are weak and are for things like lamps.
2. Do you have another PSU you could borrow from a good system? This is very useful to have when power is in question. Having this pretty much can tell you if the motherboard or PSU is at fault.
3. Is the power switch pin connected?
4. Did it ever boot? If so, try clearing CMOS. You can do that typically with a jumper. Some motherboards are stupid about boot recovery. Most will revert to defaults after a few failing boots, but others get stuck. This is useful there.
5. Are your RAM sticks where your motherboard manual recommends?
Motherboards are shit in reliability. I've built a couple of dozen PCs at work. 10% have bad motherboards. It's like they don't test them at all.
hockeypuck
Member
What did confuse me about using MSI's BIOS compared to the Gigabyte BIOS demonstrated from OP's Overclock3D.net overclocking link was that I couldn't find the option for adjusting CPU ratios for each core. TTL in the Youtube video did set each core, for what it's worth. Moreover, I couldn't set a direct voltage number on MSI's BIOS, can only add increments, e.g., +0.02V, +0.04V, etc.
Gigabyte said:
Found your problem. Sorry mkenyon was incorrect. You have to plug in both the 8 and 4pin connector at the top of the board labelled EATX12v_1 and EATX12V_2
From the manual
If that doesn't work can you get on skype or mumble for some more troubleshooting?
EDIT: also damn that does look good
- Status