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[daw840]

Could be that with those two close calls, you're more squirrelly, not your bike. Give it a little longer and see, it could just be new bike jitters.

On my end, my bike is in storage and I am sad.

:/ My bike has been in my garage for 3 months untouched......I so want to ride, but all the snow on the ground makes it impossible.

 

[Dragona Akehi]

Has anybody ever taken a racing course? I'm wondering if it would help my road skills at higher speeds, like on the highway. There's this S-curve on my way to work and all the cars do it at 60-80 Kmph (40-50 Mph) but I just can't take the angle at that speed unless I really nail the entry.

More learning is always good, and it is fun as hell. You're going to get addicted to racing every weekend.

Going so fast guilt (and ticket!) free never felt so awesome.

:/ My bike has been in my garage for 3 months untouched......I so want to ride, but all the snow on the ground makes it impossible.

I've been so morose about it, I haven't even been keeping up in this thread! I'm also broke so I can't even do the only good thing about bike storage season: shop for new gear!

 

[Flo_Evans]

I have been riding for almost 3k miles now on my GS500. Lately though I've felt uncomfortable on the bike--not posture-wise, but just "squirrely"--it just doesn't feel like the bike is all that stable? I had a couple close calls at low speeds recently (namely, I felt like I almost went down twice on low speed turns, once because of a small chunk of tar that the front tire hit and the other because of new paint on the middle lines being slick) and I dunno--I just don't feel glued to the asphalt.

So...I dunno...maybe you just get used to it? Or is it possible that a different bike might feel more solid?

Check your tire pressures?

I would also say, when you get nervous you tend to tighten up on the handgrips. A wise rider once told me to grip the bars like you hold your cock when peeing (sorry Dragona )

Snow is melting here, looks like it will be 40+ degrees all week.

Took my bike out for a spring check, fresh gas (lala you should drain it but I never do) air up the tires and lube up the chain! woohoo. Can't wait for spring.

 

[daw840]

I've been so morose about it, I haven't even been keeping up in this thread! I'm also broke so I can't even do the only good thing about bike storage season: shop for new gear!

Yeah, I was adding up all the work needed on my bike and I just hope I can scrape together enough cash to get her up and running good for the season. Probably going to be about $300. Seems silly to spend that much on a bike that isn't worth $1000, but I really can't afford a new bike.

 

[Dragona Akehi]

I would also say, when you get nervous you tend to tighten up on the handgrips. A wise rider once told me to grip the bars like you hold your cock when peeing (sorry Dragona )

I think I'll stick to the advice I give out adapted from fencing: hold your handgrips like they were birds: light enough that you do not crush them, but strong enough that they cannot fly away.

Yeah, I was adding up all the work needed on my bike and I just hope I can scrape together enough cash to get her up and running good for the season. Probably going to be about $300. Seems silly to spend that much on a bike that isn't worth $1000, but I really can't afford a new bike.

Shit, my cam chains are almost worn out, and they're automatic. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm useless when it comes to repairing things, and it'd be at least 500$USD to get it done at the shop because you have to essentially take the engine apart. For 40$USD chains. BAH.

 

[Flo_Evans]

Personally I am shopping for some luggage!

Side racks $275...

Dry Bags $200...

The problem is the side racks don't work with my existing rear rack. So I have to sell my old one or something.

I think I'll stick to the advice I give out adapted from fencing: hold your handgrips like they were birds: light enough that you do not crush them, but strong enough that they cannot fly away.

Much more elegant unisex analogy... :lol

I would also add at low speed you have much better control of the bike with your weight on the pegs than on the seat. You don't have to be standing but you should consciously weight your pegs. Don't forget to (gently) roll throttle on to stabilize the suspension coming out of the turn. I was riding with one guy that kept falling behind so I talked with him at the next stop and it turns out he was coasting thru all the turns! Bike is much more stable under power than coasting.

For high speed turns besides doing everything else correctly sometimes squeezing the tank between your legs helps.

 

[Dahellisdat]

Flo....have you taken the MSF class here in STL? If so...where did you do it? Or do yu have a recommendation?

 

[Dragona Akehi]

Flo: what can I say? Fencing is just that awesome.

I'm wondering if I should sell my current bike (sob!) and try and get something slightly newer. I wonder what Bandit prices are like these days...

 

[C.Dark.DN]

Flo: what can I say? Fencing is just that awesome.

I'm wondering if I should sell my current bike (sob!) and try and get something slightly newer. I wonder what Bandit prices are like these days...

I plan to keep my 750 honda shadow. So my future kid can drive it. Maybe it'll look awesome old in great condition.

 

[SnakeswithLasers]

Thanks a lot guys/lady. I think there's probably definitely an element of hyper-awareness on my part right now because of the close calls. I think a big part is that those mundane things were close calls though... Kind of disconcerting.

I'll try to be more aware of my handgrip pressure--it was something that I learned about riding in the wind: If your arms are rigid, then the wind steers your body, and consequently, your arms and your bike. If your arms and body are relaxed, then the wind may affect you, but it isn't steering your bike. Guess I should just ease up overall.

I guess I'm just glad that when I hit the tar chunk on the asphalt, despite the fact that I revved the bike hard while jostling for control, my other hand was smart enough to pull in on the clutch and neither my brake foot or brake hand panicked to send me down...

 

[Flo_Evans]

Flo....have you taken the MSF class here in STL? If so...where did you do it? Or do yu have a recommendation?

I haven't sorry. I would probably stay away from the ones at HD dealerships, but that just might be my personal prejudice.

Looks like the BMW shop is having another off road riding weekend workshop with instructors though! http://www.gatewaybmw.com/2010-gs-challenge-april-9-11

Sadly this is the weekend of my wife's birthday... she said I could go but I sense a trap. :lol

 

[Dragona Akehi]

I plan to keep my 750 honda shadow. So my future kid can drive it. Maybe it'll look awesome old in great condition.

Watch the cam chains. That's what my current problem is. If they're automatic tension like on my model, you're fucked when they eventually wear out (my bike has over 70k on it, most of them from me).

I haven't sorry. I would probably stay away from the ones at HD dealerships, but that just might be my personal prejudice.

Looks like the BMW shop is having another off road riding weekend workshop with instructors though! http://www.gatewaybmw.com/2010-gs-challenge-april-9-11

Sadly this is the weekend of my wife's birthday... she said I could go but I sense a trap. :lol

Clearly the answer is to buy her a BMW bike of her own and treat her to the workshop!

 

[daw840]

Watch the cam chains. That's what my current problem is. If they're automatic tension like on my model, you're fucked when they eventually wear out (my bike has over 70k on it, most of them from me).

Let me ask you something, because I think I need new tensioners and chains. Does it make a clicking noise in the top of the engine when it's cold? My bike was starting to do that at the end of last season.

Clearly the answer is to buy her a BMW bike of her own and treat her to the workshop!

Wow, I know I am going to sound like an asshole, but I would never let my wife ride a motorcycle. She can ride on the back of mine, that's fine. After riding with her in the car so many times, she doesn't seem to look at other drivers at all and it scares the shit out of me. I keep trying to tell her that even though you have the right-of-way it does NOT mean that the other idiot drivers are going to stop for you.

 

[Dragona Akehi]

Let me ask you something, because I think I need new tensioners and chains. Does it make a clicking noise in the top of the engine when it's cold? My bike was starting to do that at the end of last season.

That might be it. If you twist the throttle, does the ticking sound get faster in tune with the engine? If so, you're in my boat. Mine came on so gradually that I didn't notice at all, and I'm pretty keen on those sort of things. Only when I took it into the shop for some unrelated work, did I find out. :/

Apparently if you have manual tension chains, it's much easier to replace, and to adjust in general.

 

[daw840]

That might be it. If you twist the throttle, does the ticking sound get faster in tune with the engine? If so, you're in my boat. Mine came on so gradually that I didn't notice at all, and I'm pretty keen on those sort of things. Only when I took it into the shop for some unrelated work, did I find out. :/

Apparently if you have manual tension chains, it's much easier to replace, and to adjust in general.

YES!! That's exactly what it's doing.

Oh man.....now I am depressed.

 

[Dragona Akehi]

YES!! That's exactly what it's doing.

Oh man.....now I am depressed.

Better find out if you have auto chains or manual ones. Also, the sound is more pronounced if the engine is cold, but the noise won't go away completely even when it warms up.

There are a few other things it could be: it could be as simple as your valves needing to be adjusted. That's what the mechanic was hoping for but we found out it was the chains. Apparently every 50 000 kilometres or so you need to do a valve adjustment, so have you done one within that sort of mileage?

 

[daw840]

Better find out if you have auto chains or manual ones. Also, the sound is more pronounced if the engine is cold, but the noise won't go away completely even when it warms up.

There are a few other things it could be: it could be as simple as your valves needing to be adjusted. That's what the mechanic was hoping for but we found out it was the chains. Apparently every 50 000 kilometres or so you need to do a valve adjustment, so have you done one within that sort of mileage?

Not that I know of, but from what I have researched I have hydraulic valves that don't need adjustments.

edit: The bike has 55k miles and I have only put probably 5k on the bike. This is my first bike and I have owned it for a little more than a year.

 

[thesoapster]

I have been riding for almost 3k miles now on my GS500. Lately though I've felt uncomfortable on the bike--not posture-wise, but just "squirrely"--it just doesn't feel like the bike is all that stable? I had a couple close calls at low speeds recently (namely, I felt like I almost went down twice on low speed turns, once because of a small chunk of tar that the front tire hit and the other because of new paint on the middle lines being slick) and I dunno--I just don't feel glued to the asphalt.

So...I dunno...maybe you just get used to it? Or is it possible that a different bike might feel more solid?

As ChanHuk mentioned look at suspension and tires. Suspensions do break in. Try some more sporty tires if you want better cornering feel/ability, like the Dunlop Sportmax Q2 (Qualifier 2), Michelin Pilot Power 2CT or the Power Pure. Of course the downside is your tires won't last as long as touring tires, but man. Tires can make all the difference in the world.

Also, what are the temperatures out when you're riding? If it's not warm-hot outside, the roads are probably cold/cool, and your tires will not heat up as well, either. This will cause lack of grip/feel in the tires, too. Whenever I go out I warm up my bike before leaving, then as I'm nearing the twisties (usually touching a few remote straights on the way) maintain a decently high speed and also slalom a good bit. Check that your tire pressure is good as well.

On my end, my bike is in storage and I am sad.

Sucks. My bike's front area is pulled apart a bit so I can replace my front upper cowl/fairing. There's one goddamn screw left to get to, and it just so happens that just about everything around the gauge cluster is in the way, so I need to remove a big piece out from that console area (that the gauge cluster is attached to) to actually get to it. At least that's what the schematic looks like. I can actually get a finger to where the screw is, just so much crap in the way.

My chain, since I last cleaned/lubed it with a new cleaner (one that you use water to get off), got quite rusty. Now I know I'm supposed to clean it, use the water to rinse it (and it gets everything off better than kerosene even), THEN ride the bike for a few miles to get the rest of the cleaner/water off. THEN lube it. I've been able to make the chain much better from what it was, but there is some residual rust still. I think a lot of the remaining will come off when I ride it again, but are there any rubber o-ring safe products I could use to get rid of the rust that any of you would recommend?

 

[SnakeswithLasers]

As ChanHuk mentioned look at suspension and tires. Suspensions do break in. Try some more sporty tires if you want better cornering feel/ability, like the Dunlop Sportmax Q2 (Qualifier 2), Michelin Pilot Power 2CT or the Power Pure. Of course the downside is your tires won't last as long as touring tires, but man. Tires can make all the difference in the world.

Also, what are the temperatures out when you're riding? If it's not warm-hot outside, the roads are probably cold/cool, and your tires will not heat up as well, either. This will cause lack of grip/feel in the tires, too. Whenever I go out I warm up my bike before leaving, then as I'm nearing the twisties (usually touching a few remote straights on the way) maintain a decently high speed and also slalom a good bit. Check that your tire pressure is good as well.

Well, it's hard to say about the temperature--I live in Santa Barbara, CA, so if it's "cold" here, I don't know if that's actually what you'd define as cold--but I do generally go on short rides in the morning, when it's in the 50s and 60s (back and forth to work), and that's when it's the worst. I'm going to look into the tire pressure thing. My tires are still cherry (with only about 4.5k miles on them and the bike total), so I don't really want to invest in new ones yet.

 

[daw840]

Well, it's hard to say about the temperature--I live in Santa Barbara, CA, so if it's "cold" here, I don't know if that's actually what you'd define as cold--but I do generally go on short rides in the morning, when it's in the 50s and 60s (back and forth to work), and that's when it's the worst. I'm going to look into the tire pressure thing. My tires are still cherry (with only about 4.5k miles on them and the bike total), so I don't really want to invest in new ones yet.

Oh god, now I hate you. Santa Barbara is fucking beautiful. I wish I made enough money to live there. You god damn rich bastard!

Spoiler

I don't really hate you, but I am incredibly jealous.

 

[Dragona Akehi]

Well, it's hard to say about the temperature--I live in Santa Barbara, CA, so if it's "cold" here, I don't know if that's actually what you'd define as cold--but I do generally go on short rides in the morning, when it's in the 50s and 60s (back and forth to work), and that's when it's the worst. I'm going to look into the tire pressure thing. My tires are still cherry (with only about 4.5k miles on them and the bike total), so I don't really want to invest in new ones yet.

Whoa whoa whoa. Make sure your tyres aren't meant to be replaced every 5000 clicks. Some of them are meant to be. You're not running soft (racing) tyres are you?

 

[ChanHuk]

Developing a flat spot on my tires at 5.5k miles, figure they're about due to be thrown out and its a shame as they're as close to a race tire you can get for the streets (Pireli Diablo Supracorsas). Think I'm going to get Pilot Power 2ct up front and Pilot Road 2ct in the rear.

 

[SnakeswithLasers]

Whoa whoa whoa. Make sure your tyres aren't meant to be replaced every 5000 clicks. Some of them are meant to be. You're not running soft (racing) tyres are you?

They're whatever the default tires are--so I'm guessing they're not racing tires. It's not a racing bike, and the previous owner had it stock. The tires LOOK great. There's not a lot of wear on them at all--but maybe I'm just thinking of car tires--is there something besides visible wear that I should be concerned about at 4k miles?

 

[Dragona Akehi]

They're whatever the default tires are--so I'm guessing they're not racing tires. It's not a racing bike, and the previous owner had it stock. The tires LOOK great. There's not a lot of wear on them at all--but maybe I'm just thinking of car tires--is there something besides visible wear that I should be concerned about at 4k miles?

There should be visible wear, but next time you're round the shop just have someone double check the model of your tyre just in case.

 

[SnakeswithLasers]

There should be visible wear, but next time you're round the shop just have someone double check the model of your tyre just in case.

Okey doke. I'm taking it in soon anyway just for general maintenance. When I had the battery replaced about 1k miles ago they said everything looked great, if that's any consolation.

 

[Flo_Evans]

How old are the tires? They may have "only" 4.5k on them but if they are a few years old I would think about getting new ones anyway. Most bikes come with pretty shit stock tires.

Hell I feel lucky to get 2k out of my tires. :lol

 

[Dragona Akehi]

How old are the tires? They may have "only" 4.5k on them but if they are a few years old I would think about getting new ones anyway. Most bikes come with pretty shit stock tires.

Hell I feel lucky to get 2k out of my tires. :lol

You sure have to be financially sound to own that BMW enduro you have.

Sure you don't want to buy me a pair of these while you're buying yet another set of tyres?

 

[SnakeswithLasers]

How old are the tires? They may have "only" 4.5k on them but if they are a few years old I would think about getting new ones anyway. Most bikes come with pretty shit stock tires.

Hell I feel lucky to get 2k out of my tires. :lol

Bike is a 2007; they're original gangsta tires.

 

[VASPER]

Just paid off my 08 WR250x, feels good and only 4500 miles on it

 

[thesoapster]

Developing a flat spot on my tires at 5.5k miles, figure they're about due to be thrown out and its a shame as they're as close to a race tire you can get for the streets (Pireli Diablo Supracorsas). Think I'm going to get Pilot Power 2ct up front and Pilot Road 2ct in the rear.

You have 5.5K on the tires? There's softer/stickier rubber than that

I've loved my Pilot Power 2CTs so far. I'm on my 2nd set. My stock rear tire (Qualifiers) was gone at 2200 miles. 2CT rear went for about 4200 for me. Though I have a suspicion that 1000s eat tires up a bit quicker...

And really I could have gotten more out of it if I had spent more time on twisty roads. I have a set of Power Pures which have softer sides and there's less of the longer lasting (not as grippy) rubber covering the surface of the tire than the standard 2CT. After my 2CTs are gone (I'm hoping to do them in before summer) I'll switch to the Pures

http://i50.tinypic.com/68zkh3.jpg

Just paid off my 08 WR250x, feels good and only 4500 miles on it

Thing looks stupidly fun

 

[Damaged]

Just paid off my 08 WR250x, feels good and only 4500 miles on it

Congrats! nice to see another motard rider on here as well

 

[sasimirobot]

Honda PCX 125i. 117miles/gallon! Blows away my old Ruckus with technology and power! Same price too.

http://rmreview.com.my/honda-pcx-125i-cruiser-scooter-fuel-saver/

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

I got the bug now and I'm definitely getting a bike this year. I already signed up for the safety classes and am now trying to decide between a ninja 250R and the ninja 500R due to the little difference in price.

The thing I need help with now is gear. I'll list what I conjured up from reading through this thread twice and any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

HELMET - Shark Evoline Helmet. (I really like the modular so I prefer that...)
JACKET - Joe Rocket Kawasaki Jacket (I really wanted a Kawasaki Jacket and this is all I can find. It has CE in shoulders and elbows)
BOOTS - Sidi Streetburner (Kick ass looking books and I prefer something like this over a full boot)
GLOVES - Spidi Sport EVO or Spidi Race Vent
PANTS - Spidi Teker Pants

Ok, so that is what I was able to come up in my own looking but I have some questions. First, the jacket I'm looking at doesn't have a spine guard. Is any spine guard good or is there a certain kind that goes into the jacket or it will have to be worn separately, good brand, etc. The looks I like and from what I can tell protect as good as a full length boot. Has anyone tried them before. Third, the gloves I picked ones that look cool but I have no idea what to be looking for when picking gloves to any advice on must have "features" is greatly appreciated. Also, if anything is overkill and there is a cheaper/better alternative I'd be willing to listen to it. I had zero idea what I needed and after reading this twice this is my result so I'm sure there is improvement.

Finally, does anyone use there bike to commute to work? Do you do a full outfit like I'm looking at or do less or ? It would seem rather bothersome and impractical to wear all this to get and work and most likely have to change. Thanks again!

 

[Kabuki Quantum Lover]

Honda PCX 125i. 117miles/gallon! Blows away my old Ruckus with technology and power! Same price too.

http://rmreview.com.my/honda-pcx-125i-cruiser-scooter-fuel-saver/

Judging by the picture, it looks like a CBR125-based scooter.

 

[daw840]

I got the bug now and I'm definitely getting a bike this year. I already signed up for the safety classes and am now trying to decide between a ninja 250R and the ninja 500R due to the little difference in price.

If you are buying new, seriously think about looking at the 650R. It's forgiveable for a new rider since it's a twin, but it's got enough get-up-and-go that you won't get tired of it really quick. Or look at an older (early 90s, late 80s) inline 4 standard. I have, and started on a 84 Nighthawk 700 and it has served me very well.

The thing I need help with now is gear. I'll list what I conjured up from reading through this thread twice and any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

HELMET - Shark Evoline Helmet. (I really like the modular so I prefer that...)
JACKET - Joe Rocket Kawasaki Jacket (I really wanted a Kawasaki Jacket and this is all I can find. It has CE in shoulders and elbows)
BOOTS - Sidi Streetburner (Kick ass looking books and I prefer something like this over a full boot)
GLOVES - Spidi Sport EVO or Spidi Race Vent
PANTS - Spidi Teker Pants

Ok, so that is what I was able to come up in my own looking but I have some questions. First, the jacket I'm looking at doesn't have a spine guard. Is any spine guard good or is there a certain kind that goes into the jacket or it will have to be worn separately, good brand, etc. The looks I like and from what I can tell protect as good as a full length boot. Has anyone tried them before. Third, the gloves I picked ones that look cool but I have no idea what to be looking for when picking gloves to any advice on must have "features" is greatly appreciated. Also, if anything is overkill and there is a cheaper/better alternative I'd be willing to listen to it. I had zero idea what I needed and after reading this twice this is my result so I'm sure there is improvement.

Glad to see you are going to gear up well, always a good idea. If you like modular helmets, take a look at Nolan helmets. My wife lovers her Nolan. You can try them on at a local retailer and then once you know what size you need, I would order them online.

www.motorcyclecloseouts.com

This place is close to me, so I have the luxury of actually going to the store, but the money I have saved going to this place is awesome. Got a $500 Bell Recoil Star helmet for $200, and the Nolan we bought was like $250, normally $350 I think.

I kind of slack off on gear though, I don't wear MC specific pants or shoes, just jeans and over the ankle hiking boots. I do have a jacket helmet and gloves though. Definitely find something with spine protection.

Finally, does anyone use there bike to commute to work? Do you do a full outfit like I'm looking at or do less or ? It would seem rather bothersome and impractical to wear all this to get and work and most likely have to change. Thanks again!

I commute to work all the time, but like I said, I just throw on the jacket, gloves, and a helmet. I don't worry about anything else. You can buy "over-pants" to put on and you can just take them off when you get to work if you want. Boots are a little bit of a problem, since you would have to change into work clothes afterwards, that's why I don't bother and just wear whatever shoes I am wearing to work.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

If you are buying new, seriously think about looking at the 650R. It's forgiveable for a new rider since it's a twin, but it's got enough get-up-and-go that you won't get tired of it really quick. Or look at an older (early 90s, late 80s) inline 4 standard. I have, and started on a 84 Nighthawk 700 and it has served me very well.


Glad to see you are going to gear up well, always a good idea. If you like modular helmets, take a look at Nolan helmets. My wife lovers her Nolan. You can try them on at a local retailer and then once you know what size you need, I would order them online.

www.motorcyclecloseouts.com

This place is close to me, so I have the luxury of actually going to the store, but the money I have saved going to this place is awesome. Got a $500 Bell Recoil Star helmet for $200, and the Nolan we bought was like $250, normally $350 I think.

I kind of slack off on gear though, I don't wear MC specific pants or shoes, just jeans and over the ankle hiking boots. I do have a jacket helmet and gloves though. Definitely find something with spine protection.


I commute to work all the time, but like I said, I just throw on the jacket, gloves, and a helmet. I don't worry about anything else. You can buy "over-pants" to put on and you can just take them off when you get to work if you want. Boots are a little bit of a problem, since you would have to change into work clothes afterwards, that's why I don't bother and just wear whatever shoes I am wearing to work.

I really can't get a 650R because it's a little out of price range, although the dealer has it for about $1000 under MSRP and the insurance literally triples if I get it. 250R is around $300 for medium insurance, $550 for the 500R and $1550 for the 650R for a year. The 650R looks like pure sex but it's just impractical for me since it would cost more a year than my fully insured car.

Some of those Nolan helmets are nice now that I see them. I went with shark since Dragona seems to love them so much and they are both dot and ece rated which is something else I kind of wanted. I'll have to look into the Nolans more. Thanks.

The only thing I'm sort of worried about the 250R is weight. I weigh about 210-215 and I'm wondering if it has enough balls for me on it let alone a passenger. All the forums saying it's powerful enough are a measly 140-150 lbs.... I want the 250R because it has the nicer updated style but the 500R maybe more practical in the long run with only a $500 gap in price at the dealer so I'm conflicted. :/

Edit: Another question, does anyone ride at night? Is there anything extra I should get for my gear, etc. to make myself safer/better off or is it pretty much a no no?

 

[daw840]

I really can't get a 650R because it's a little out of price range, although the dealer has it for about $1000 under MSRP and the insurance literally triples if I get it. 250R is around $300 for medium insurance, $550 for the 500R and $1550 for the 650R for a year. The 650R looks like pure sex but it's just impractical for me since it would cost more a year than my fully insured car.

Some of those Nolan helmets are nice now that I see them. I went with shark since Dragona seems to love them so much and they are both dot and ece rated which is something else I kind of wanted. I'll have to look into the Nolans more. Thanks.

Holy shit, that's crazy insurance rates. Usually the twins are a lot cheaper, have you shopped around at all for insurance? Or is that just your normal company?

I have liability only, but it's like $40 a year.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

Holy shit, that's crazy insurance rates. Usually the twins are a lot cheaper, have you shopped around at all for insurance? Or is that just your normal company?

I have liability only, but it's like $40 a year.

Well that's for full coverage on all of them (liability, theft, comp, etc.) and the medium/high rating in pay out for liability and the such. I've been looking at rider since they give quicker/easier rates and everyone has said they are by far the cheapest in NJ. I'm still waiting on the rates to come in from other companies so hopefully I'll have a more concrete idea by weeks end. The biggest problem it seems is I'm only 22 so when I try to go over 500cc the rate skyrocket.

 

[daw840]

Well that's for full coverage on all of them (liability, theft, comp, etc.) and the medium/high rating in pay out for liability and the such. I've been looking at rider since they give quicker/easier rates and everyone has said they are by far the cheapest in NJ. I'm still waiting on the rates to come in from other companies so hopefully I'll have a more concrete idea by weeks end. The biggest problem it seems is I'm only 22 so when I try to go over 500cc the rate skyrocket.

Yeah, that's definitely a problem. May I ask, are you planning about buying new or used? I opted to go used. My reasoning was that I figured I was going to lay it down at least once, I didn't want to cry when it happened.:lol

See if you can get a 8-10 year old bike for cheap, that way you just have liability. Then, once you ride for a couple seasons you can move up to something newer and faster.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

Yeah, that's definitely a problem. May I ask, are you planning about buying new or used? I opted to go used. My reasoning was that I figured I was going to lay it down at least once, I didn't want to cry when it happened.:lol

See if you can get a 8-10 year old bike for cheap, that way you just have liability. Then, once you ride for a couple seasons you can move up to something newer and faster.

I don't know if it's the winter or because of the models I'm looking at but I haven't found many and the ones I have found aren't much cheaper than the dealer so for a couple hundred more I figure I may as well buy new. I'd prefer used if I can get a deal but the only $400 or so savings seems stupid to buy used over new in that situation. I kind of want to buy now so prices don't jump a lot over the summer (I'm just assuming they do since more people are buying). Does anyone know when 2011 models usually come out? I don't have my safety thing until the end of may so I'm curious if I should wait if I decide on new.

Edit: Speaking of which, what are good online sites for used bikes? I've been watching craigslist, cycletrader, and one other and nothing really jumps out so far.

 

[Mr Sandman]

Thread needs more enduros. Here's mine. XR650R, the king of baja:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUWMN9hctnM

From the documentary "Dust to Glory" about the Baja 1000 by Dana Brown. Definite recommend watch. I'll try to get a pic of mine up sometime. And no it's not the usual Honda enduro you'd see on the road. That's the outdated air-cooled, steel-framed XR650L :S

 

[daw840]

I don't know if it's the winter or because of the models I'm looking at but I haven't found many and the ones I have found aren't much cheaper than the dealer so for a couple hundred more I figure I may as well buy new. I'd prefer used if I can get a deal but the only $400 or so savings seems stupid to buy used over new in that situation. I kind of want to buy now so prices don't jump a lot over the summer (I'm just assuming they do since more people are buying). Does anyone know when 2011 models usually come out? I don't have my safety thing until the end of may so I'm curious if I should wait if I decide on new.

Edit: Speaking of which, what are good online sites for used bikes? I've been watching craigslist, cycletrader, and one other and nothing really jumps out so far.

IDK man, I found my bike for $1500 used and it came with a helmet (didn't fit me so that didn't really matter, but I do still have it), a Shift leather jacket (probably $500 new), and a set of Shift gloves. This will be my second season riding, after this season I hope to get a new bike though.

 

[garath]

Well that's for full coverage on all of them (liability, theft, comp, etc.) and the medium/high rating in pay out for liability and the such. I've been looking at rider since they give quicker/easier rates and everyone has said they are by far the cheapest in NJ. I'm still waiting on the rates to come in from other companies so hopefully I'll have a more concrete idea by weeks end. The biggest problem it seems is I'm only 22 so when I try to go over 500cc the rate skyrocket.

Don't know who you looked at for insurance but try State Farm. They were the best for me. I pay around $300 a year full coverage for a 900cc sportbike. Granted I'm older (31) but still, $1500 sounds very high to me.

As far as commuting to work, I do that occasionally. I don't wear leather pants to work. I use a pair of textile overpants over my work pants. I tuck my shoes in a tail bag, and have my laptop in my backpack. Gloves, boots, jacket and helmet are standard fare. It's all a little bulky but I tuck it next to my deck at work. It's a small price to pay for the fun (not to mention economy) of taking the bike to work. I often take the "long way" home when I do so.

Buy used if you can. There aren't many bikes for sale right now because winter is a terrible time to sell. Come spring there will be selection all over the place. Even though the styling is much much better on the new 250s than the 500s, I would go for a 500 if I were in your shoes. It's a great starter bike (that's what I started on) and plenty of power. It's a little bigger in size than the 250 which will be more comfortable imo. Even the 250 has plenty of power though. It's better to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow. The power to weight ratio of a 250 is still better than most cars you'll sit in (even with you breaking 200lbs). I could wring the 500 wide open on the track but my 900 I'm still barely clicking half throttle. It's a scary amount of power.

 

[thesoapster]

I got the bug now and I'm definitely getting a bike this year. I already signed up for the safety classes and am now trying to decide between a ninja 250R and the ninja 500R due to the little difference in price.

The thing I need help with now is gear. I'll list what I conjured up from reading through this thread twice and any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

HELMET - Shark Evoline Helmet. (I really like the modular so I prefer that...)
JACKET - Joe Rocket Kawasaki Jacket (I really wanted a Kawasaki Jacket and this is all I can find. It has CE in shoulders and elbows)
BOOTS - Sidi Streetburner (Kick ass looking books and I prefer something like this over a full boot)
GLOVES - Spidi Sport EVO or Spidi Race Vent
PANTS - Spidi Teker Pants

Ok, so that is what I was able to come up in my own looking but I have some questions. First, the jacket I'm looking at doesn't have a spine guard. Is any spine guard good or is there a certain kind that goes into the jacket or it will have to be worn separately, good brand, etc. The looks I like and from what I can tell protect as good as a full length boot. Has anyone tried them before. Third, the gloves I picked ones that look cool but I have no idea what to be looking for when picking gloves to any advice on must have "features" is greatly appreciated. Also, if anything is overkill and there is a cheaper/better alternative I'd be willing to listen to it. I had zero idea what I needed and after reading this twice this is my result so I'm sure there is improvement.

Finally, does anyone use there bike to commute to work? Do you do a full outfit like I'm looking at or do less or ? It would seem rather bothersome and impractical to wear all this to get and work and most likely have to change. Thanks again!

As mentioned prior, check compacc.com for good helmet deals. Be aware that pants/jackets of different brands may not zip together. Honestly unless you really have to have a Kawa jacket I'd get a Spidi jacket to go with the bottoms. The Race Vent gloves are nice and, as the name implies, let a ton of air through. My only issue with them is the rectangular metal piece that the wrist closure goes through. As the leather broke in mine tended to flip length-wise, meaning the wrist closure can't be done up all that tight, so I'd have to flip it back. I had them on during my accident and received zero injury. I would advise against getting stunter shoes. I love Sidi boots (I have two pairs), but those are not going to protect as well as ones the cover up the ankle area. MSRP is only $50 more for a pair of Vertigos, so I'd go that route...

As for going to work, I'd bring along a change of clothes if possible. If you work at a place where you have to wear a suit...hmmmm. If you want to have jeans on, try out Bohn Armor. I have some of the leg armor that I'll wear under jeans and I have heard many positive crash reports (haven't tested mine yet). Much better than jeans alone. But really, if you're going to be going any distance to work, bringing along some jeans/shorts/whatever to change into with some luggage on the bike or by wearing a pack shouldn't be bad. Of course you could also pack shoes etc and keep your boots with the rest of your gear.

Any spine guard you wear should be CE rated (and yes you should definitely have a spine guard). Most Spidi jackets don't come with one in them, but you can add them (they're called Warriors).

Other brands worth checking out include (since you seem to be looking at Spidi and Joe Rocket already) Alpinestars, Dainese, Tour Master/Cortech, Shift, Teknic, RS Taichi. Others here will have some other brand suggestions for you, too.

Check out some Held gloves, too. They're almost always Kangaroo leather (stronger) and are great. I have some Spidi Penta gloves that are nice. Though some stitching came undone on my left glove...curiously without going down and I think without riding. May have been that one time my stupid cat got trapped in my room. Anyway, I've loved my Pentas so far. They don't let in as much air as the Race Vents, but they're considerably more rugged/safe. Perforated leather will come apart easier, so it's best for racing wear to have it used sparingly and only in certain places.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

As mentioned prior, check compacc.com for good helmet deals. Be aware that pants/jackets of different brands may not zip together. Honestly unless you really have to have a Kawa jacket I'd get a Spidi jacket to go with the bottoms. The Race Vent gloves are nice and, as the name implies, let a ton of air through. My only issue with them is the rectangular metal piece that the wrist closure goes through. As the leather broke in mine tended to flip length-wise, meaning the wrist closure can't be done up all that tight, so I'd have to flip it back. I had them on during my accident and received zero injury. I would advise against getting stunter shoes. I love Sidi boots (I have two pairs), but those are not going to protect as well as ones the cover up the ankle area. MSRP is only $50 more for a pair of Vertigos, so I'd go that route...

As for going to work, I'd bring along a change of clothes if possible. If you work at a place where you have to wear a suit...hmmmm. If you want to have jeans on, try out Bohn Armor. I have some of the leg armor that I'll wear under jeans and I have heard many positive crash reports (haven't tested mine yet). Much better than jeans alone. But really, if you're going to be going any distance to work, bringing along some jeans/shorts/whatever to change into with some luggage on the bike or by wearing a pack shouldn't be bad. Of course you could also pack shoes etc and keep your boots with the rest of your gear.

Any spine guard you wear should be CE rated (and yes you should definitely have a spine guard). Most Spidi jackets don't come with one in them, but you can add them (they're called Warriors).

Other brands worth checking out include (since you seem to be looking at Spidi and Joe Rocket already) Alpinestars, Dainese, Tour Master/Cortech, Shift, Teknic, RS Taichi. Others here will have some other brand suggestions for you, too.

Check out some Held gloves, too. They're almost always Kangaroo leather (stronger) and are great. I have some Spidi Penta gloves that are nice. Though some stitching came undone on my left glove...curiously without going down and I think without riding. May have been that one time my stupid cat got trapped in my room. Anyway, I've loved my Pentas so far. They don't let in as much air as the Race Vents, but they're considerably more rugged/safe. Perforated leather will come apart easier, so it's best for racing wear to have it used sparingly and only in certain places.

I was looking at Spidi but they're so expensive and have no gear in it so I'd have to buy like full armor to wear underneath anyhow which was a major turnoff. Does it matter that much if the jacket and pants hook together? How do they usually hook together? Is warrior the name of the spine guard? I can't seem to find it.

I guess I'll look at full boots but those boots do protect the ankle area and from the reviews I've looked at work really nice but I still have to read up more about it.

Edit: Ya, it's like 700-$800 for just a Spidi Jacket. :/ There has to be a more reasonable alternative?

 

[Dragona Akehi]

As for the bike, go with 500cc or under. I realise some people here are saying higher is fine, but the statistics don't lie: first time riders with racing style bikes over 500cc tend to get into more crashes, especially fatal ones.

When you take your MSF you'll probably be going around on 250cc bikes or less. Sometimes you're zipping about on 125. Try them out before committing to a bike. A 250cc unit should be enough for someone even your size, as long as you're riding alone.

As for the jacket, a spine protector is excellent, but it is not absolutely necessary. Looking at the gear you picked out, it's definitely more than adequate.

And excellent taste, picking a Shark for a helmet! They're awesome helmets.

 

[thesoapster]

And excellent taste, picking a Shark for a helmet! They're awesome helmets.

I like Shark (RSR2 has 5/5 from SHARP and is light), my personal vote is for the Shoei RF-1100 (5/5 from SHARP, SNELL 2010 but with some nicer features on it...brand new helmet).

Whatever helmet you buy, make sure it fits you first.

I was looking at Spidi but they're so expensive and have no gear in it so I'd have to buy like full armor to wear underneath anyhow which was a major turnoff. Does it matter that much if the jacket and pants hook together? How do they usually hook together? Is warrior the name of the spine guard? I can't seem to find it.

I guess I'll look at full boots but those boots do protect the ankle area and from the reviews I've looked at work really nice but I still have to read up more about it.

Edit: Ya, it's like 700-$800 for just a Spidi Jacket. :/ There has to be a more reasonable alternative?

Spidi jackets are usually in the 400-700ish range. I have their top jacket (GP Kangaroo) and it was 7 something, but it's kangaroo leather and includes a spine guard and chest guard as well. And yes, Spidi is not cheap at all. So if money is your concern stay the fuck away from Dainese, as they're pricier yet.

Some of the gear brands I mentioned (like Alpinestars, Teknic, Shift, and even RS Taichi...shit even some of Icon's stuff is worthwhile) will be cheaper. And really you could find just about any brand for the right price if you look around for sales. Check sites like SportbikeTrackGear (gloves/boots...suits probably won't be applicable for you), NewEnough, Compacc.com (helmets), KneeDraggers, etc.

2 piece leathers usually zip together with a circumference zipper. It is probably the 2nd best protection you can have (with a continuous 1 piece suit being the best). I really do think a spine guard is worthwhile, and they're really not that expensive usually if it doesn't already have one built in. Here is the standard jacket insert Warrior on STG. Other brands have their own back protectors, and there are kinds that are not intended to go into a jacket per se but are worn like a harness. These are pricier and a bit more spartan (and probably protect even better).

 

[daw840]

As for the bike, go with 500cc or under. I realise some people here are saying higher is fine, but the statistics don't lie: first time riders with racing style bikes over 500cc tend to get into more crashes, especially fatal ones.

When you take your MSF you'll probably be going around on 250cc bikes or less. Sometimes you're zipping about on 125. Try them out before committing to a bike. A 250cc unit should be enough for someone even your size, as long as you're riding alone.

As for the jacket, a spine protector is excellent, but it is not absolutely necessary. Looking at the gear you picked out, it's definitely more than adequate.

And excellent taste, picking a Shark for a helmet! They're awesome helmets.

Well, I mentioned the 650s like the Suzuki and Ninja, they are still twin cylinder. I thought the stats showed people riding on I-4 super bikes as their first, but I could be wrong. Unfortunately, I know all to many people that end up on a CBR 600 or 1000 for their first bike and they either wreck and never get back on one because they are scared, or the bike just scares the hell out of them and they don't catch the fever. My Nighthawk is a 700 I-4, but it's extremely tame compared to any crotch rocket.

 

[ChanHuk]

About to pull the trigger on a Triumph branded AStar RC1 jacket. 25% off MSRP at the local dealer.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

As for the bike, go with 500cc or under. I realise some people here are saying higher is fine, but the statistics don't lie: first time riders with racing style bikes over 500cc tend to get into more crashes, especially fatal ones.

When you take your MSF you'll probably be going around on 250cc bikes or less. Sometimes you're zipping about on 125. Try them out before committing to a bike. A 250cc unit should be enough for someone even your size, as long as you're riding alone.

As for the jacket, a spine protector is excellent, but it is not absolutely necessary. Looking at the gear you picked out, it's definitely more than adequate.

And excellent taste, picking a Shark for a helmet! They're awesome helmets.

I don't really have much desire to go above 500cc that's why I've only even looked at 250 and 500.