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$500 cans on, this is how you dream right - Official Headphone Thread

Villain

Neo Member
I'm sure this has been asked plenty of times, but which out of two would you guys recommend?

The TMA-1s or the HD-25-1 II?

It's a tough decision for me because these two are both in the ~$200 range and both of these have a good reputation. I'm mostly a bass head, and I just want something that is better than a Beats.

Which one would you guys pick? By the way, I'll end up getting the Adidas version if I were to pick the HD-25 because it's sexy...
 

Recon

Banned
I'm sure this has been asked plenty of times, but which out of two would you guys recommend?

The TMA-1s or the HD-25-1 II?

It's a tough decision for me because these two are both in the ~$200 range and both of these have a good reputation. I'm mostly a bass head, and I just want something that is better than a Beats.

Which one would you guys pick? By the way, I'll end up getting the Adidas version if I were to pick the HD-25 because it's sexy...

The Adidas version of the HD's does look nice, but based on aesthetics and the way they sound, i would go with the TMA-1s.
 

nib95

Banned
I'm sure this has been asked plenty of times, but which out of two would you guys recommend?

The TMA-1s or the HD-25-1 II?

It's a tough decision for me because these two are both in the ~$200 range and both of these have a good reputation. I'm mostly a bass head, and I just want something that is better than a Beats.

Which one would you guys pick? By the way, I'll end up getting the Adidas version if I were to pick the HD-25 because it's sexy...

Honestly, the T50RP's with the additional easy (and extremely cheap) mod is the one I'd recommend. Getting 2/3rds of the way towards LCD-2 quality sound on $100-$200 is no small feat.
 
What superior specs lol ?

You mean, it's more expensive?

Look here
http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_d1/dac_comparison1

The D2 has better innards and is only a DAC, the D1 doubles as a amp+DAC but has lesser innards.

The problem is, if I settle for the D1 instead, I'll probably be feeling like I want more bass and such and want a better quality amp.
Which is why I'm undecided between getting D2+decent standalone amp, D1+decent standalone amp, or just D1.

IF i go for just D1, I then have the option later on to buy an amp to complement it if I think more could come from the headphones.
But then I would be losing out on the D2's specs and maybe should have just bought D2+amp.
 

Geneijin

Member
Total I'd say $300-$400 max.
I'm set on the D1 or D2 at least because I need the optical out for the PS3, and a source switcher so I can switch between PC and PS3.
Then why not get the D2 and a standalone amp like the Fiio E9 if you're still within budget?

If you ask me, I'd rather suggest the D1. Then you can decide whether or not a standalone amp is even necessary after you hear it. That's pretty much one of the reasons why some get a DAC/amp combo first, so you can make that informed decision later in the future while having an amp to use in the meantime deciding.
 

Bitmap Frogs

Mr. Community
Look here
http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_d1/dac_comparison1

The D2 has better innards and is only a DAC, the D1 doubles as a amp+DAC but has lesser innards.

The problem is, if I settle for the D1 instead, I'll probably be feeling like I want more bass and such and want a better quality amp.
Which is why I'm undecided between getting D2+decent standalone amp, D1+decent standalone amp, or just D1.

IF i go for just D1, I then have the option later on to buy an amp to complement it if I think more could come from the headphones.
But then I would be losing out on the D2's specs and maybe should have just bought D2+amp.

You're wasting your money, you couldn't abx a D1 against a D2+amp combo.

But it's your money.
 

Geneijin

Member
Synergy is a myth that drags from the dark ages when flat responses where unobtanium.

Blind abx tests show that synergy is bollocks.
I'd have to disagree after testing the E7/E9 combo against another DAC like Xonar Essence STX. It does some interesting effects depending on the recording and when comparing two headphones like the AKG K271 and M50. The soundstage specifically on the K271 widens even more with the E7/E9, which may or may not be desirable.
 

Bitmap Frogs

Mr. Community
I'd have to disagree after testing the E7/E9 combo against another DAC like Xonar Essence STX. It does some interesting effects depending on the recording and when comparing two headphones like the AKG K271 and M50. The soundstage specifically on the K271 widens even more with the E7/E9, which may or may not be desirable.

Sighted test or blind?

If it is sighted the results are bollocks.

Differences only exist if you can pinpoint them blinded.
 

Bitmap Frogs

Mr. Community
Sighted, and I'll just disagree again with how flatly you tend to deny such things.

Because sighted tests are inherently dishonest due to biases.

Again, I'm reposting on this thread Sean Olive's recount of his experiences at Harman Kardon but if you're so inclined the Audio Engineering Society has plenty papers on these issues, and there's only one conclusion.

http://seanolive.blogspot.com/2009/04/dishonesty-of-sighted-audio-product.html

Anyways, it's still your money and if you find happiness being robbed blind by marketing departments, the more power to you.
 

dmshaposv

Member
I'm sure this has been asked plenty of times, but which out of two would you guys recommend?

The TMA-1s or the HD-25-1 II?

It's a tough decision for me because these two are both in the ~$200 range and both of these have a good reputation. I'm mostly a bass head, and I just want something that is better than a Beats.

Which one would you guys pick? By the way, I'll end up getting the Adidas version if I were to pick the HD-25 because it's sexy...

I personally feel the TMA's have better build quality. I've tested the HD-25-1 II and while they are the best in class dj phones, the "new kid on the block" TMA really gives them a run for its money. I feel the sound quality is very similar (great mids/highs and excellent bass).

I will say this. The detachable cable is always a plus if you are careless with your cables like me. So TMA wins here, although the HD-25 1-II has this flat beats tour like cable that is shorter and less obtrusive than the coiled cable of the TMAs.
 

sprsk

force push the doodoo rock
Got some beats the other day, kinda havingn buyers remorse. Especially hearing after the fact there's a lot of sound leakage.
 

Geneijin

Member
Anyways, it's still your money and if you find happiness being robbed blind by marketing departments, the more power to you.
If you're willing to listen to A/B comparisons between phones, how is it any different with source components? And you assuming where my "blind" faith is from is almost insulting. I've already told you I've done my own tests. That isn't enough to say they are my own delusions?

The more power to you in believing what you do too. I just think it isn't as clear-cut as you claim it to be.
 
D

Deleted member 13876

Unconfirmed Member
A few years back I bought a Sony MDR-RF860R wireless headset. The quality is probably not the greatest, but that's the least of my concerns. I've been content with it over the past years and vastly prefer wireless headsets over wired ones because I like to move away from my desktop and keep listening all around the house but the problem as you may expect is that by now the battery is completely fried. As it stands I can get an hour of charge time out of it tops and another thing it has started doing is shutting itself down when the audio gets quiet during specific moments of a song or movie or low audio levels in general. My question is, should I be on the lookout for a new headset or should I try tracking down the type of rechargeable battery this thing uses.

As I've said, the quality still suits me just fine, it's just that I'm worried the low volume shutdowns might not be battery related.
 

ElyrionX

Member
Sighted, and I'll just disagree again with how flatly you tend to deny such things.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to side with Bitmap Frogs here. Your results are not accurate if they are sighted. I've tried sighted and blind comparisons tests before with the same conditions both ways and the results from the sighted and blind tests were totally different. Sighted tests will always have a psychological bias to them. There is absoutely no point in trying to deceive yourself that the results of your sighted tests will be accurate.
 

LordCanti

Member
Unfortunately, I'm going to have to side with Bitmap Frogs here. Your results are not accurate if they are sighted. I've tried sighted and blind comparisons tests before with the same conditions both ways and the results from the sighted and blind tests were totally different. Sighted tests will always have a psychological bias to them. There is absoutely no point in trying to deceive yourself that the results of your sighted tests will be accurate.

Not to say you're wrong or anything, but this line of thinking has always puzzled me. If I plug two identical (for the sake of argument) headphones into two different systems, and A/B them, why wouldn't I be able to tell the difference, if there is a difference? If one has a very narrow soundstage, and then I switch to the other pair and it has a much more open soundstage, why is that finding invalid? Why (or how) would my brain be able to say "Okay, that one is going to have a much bigger soundstage when we put them on"?

Maybe it takes a blind test to pick out subtle differences, but I refuse to believe that it does for huge differences.

Not to discredit the claim that most of what's written on head-fi is rubbish or anything. There is a whole lot of snake oil and group think going on there, and it's been happening for years.
 

LCfiner

Member
Can you guys elaborate on what you're definition of 'synergy' is? Thanks.

it’s something you read a lot on head-fi. the idea is that, say, you have a “bright" headphone and a “warm” amp so there’s “synergy” between the two providing a more balanced sound.

personally, I think it’s an overused and misused term. there’s too much over thinking in the community when people are spending way too much money on sources and amps.

unrelated: I was reading a post on head-fi about how one guy was saying the two thousand dollar LCD-3 headphone requires no less than one full month of burn-in, 24/7. one month of pink noise playing to sound their best. I just had to shake my head. that’s crazy.

Even if it were true, which I don’t believe, what other kind of product would consumers accept that kind of procedure to work as intended? just sounded like someone trying to justify his purchase.
 

Geneijin

Member
Unfortunately, I'm going to have to side with Bitmap Frogs here. Your results are not accurate if they are sighted. I've tried sighted and blind comparisons tests before with the same conditions both ways and the results from the sighted and blind tests were totally different. Sighted tests will always have a psychological bias to them. There is absoutely no point in trying to deceive yourself that the results of your sighted tests will be accurate.
But it's not about accuracy. It's merely an observation just as any one of us are willing to trust or distrust certain reviews. I just think it isn't wholly different from A/B'ing different phones.

Not to discredit the claim that most of what's written on head-fi is rubbish or anything. There is a whole lot of snake oil and group think going on there, and it's been happening for years.
If we're talking about marketing gimmicks and things like blue dragon silver cables, yes, I somewhat agree about the rubbish. And I say that because more than anything, it isn't the snake oil that arouses suspicion from me. It's the ridiculous margins of diminishing returns you get at such a level that I give up on understanding.
 
Not to say you're wrong or anything, but this line of thinking has always puzzled me. If I plug two identical (for the sake of argument) headphones into two different systems, and A/B them, why wouldn't I be able to tell the difference, if there is a difference? If one has a very narrow soundstage, and then I switch to the other pair and it has a much more open soundstage, why is that finding invalid? Why (or how) would my brain be able to say "Okay, that one is going to have a much bigger soundstage when we put them on"?

Maybe it takes a blind test to pick out subtle differences, but I refuse to believe that it does for huge differences.

Not to discredit the claim that most of what's written on head-fi is rubbish or anything. There is a whole lot of snake oil and group think going on there, and it's been happening for years.

It's not puzzling at all. Confirmation bias is an inherent thought process in humans. The most we can do is realize that it happens and try to overcome it. You get 2 systems and look at them, or know some things about them, your mind is already generating what you think the results will be. You cannot stop it no matter how neutral you think you are.

Also, the finding may not be invalid, but I wouldn't trust it. Why do you think the gold standard of any scientific experiment is controlled double-blind trials? Any results found in an experiment where either side knows who the control group is is effectively worthless because of unconscious bias.
 

Bitmap Frogs

Mr. Community
If you're willing to listen to A/B comparisons between phones, how is it any different with source components? And you assuming where my "blind" faith is from is almost insulting. I've already told you I've done my own tests. That isn't enough to say they are my own delusions?

The more power to you in believing what you do too. I just think it isn't as clear-cut as you claim it to be.

Oh, of ocourse you can A/B whatever you want, but research and practical experience shows sighted AB tests are inherently biased. Things that appear to sound different sighted, turns out they're not. Plenty of ink has been spilled about how cables affect the sound, yet not a single cable has passed a blind ABX test.

I'd suggest you try some blind tests and see if you can find differences between cables, amps, etc.
 

Bitmap Frogs

Mr. Community
It's not puzzling at all. Confirmation bias is an inherent thought process in humans. The most we can do is realize that it happens and try to overcome it.

Related, I read an interview with a scientist who's been studying the mcgurk effect for 25 years and he still is affected by it...

We as humans are wired certain way, no matter how much we pride ourselves in being educated enough to overcome it.
 

Geneijin

Member
Oh, of ocourse you can A/B whatever you want, but research and practical experience shows sighted AB tests are inherently biased. Things that appear to sound different sighted, turns out they're not. Plenty of ink has been spilled about how cables affect the sound, yet not a single cable has passed a blind ABX test.

I'd suggest you try some blind tests and see if you can find differences between cables, amps, etc.
My answer to cables is the same as my first reaction: I'm not going to engage in such foolishness. And even if I do acknowledge there may be a faint difference between cables, it's simply not worth throwing away that kind of money on such an experiment. Who does? Doing such a experiment with DACs and amps are more reasonable because you can start with a cheap beginner setup and upgrade from that. Cables? It's cables man... And also, I find differences between DACs to be more perceivable than what an amp can ever affect to the same extent, so I wouldn't put DACs on the same level of rubbish as cables.
 

Max

I am not Max
I'm in the market for a portable amplifier to go along with the HD558's I bought earlier this year

Mostly interested in having it connected to my PC at all times. So one that charges through an outlet or USB would be preferred


Any recommendations on one that is less than $100 and available to shipped to Canada?
 

SteveO409

Did you know Halo invented the FPS?
I'm in the market for a portable amplifier to go along with the HD558's I bought earlier this year

Mostly interested in having it connected to my PC at all times. So one that charges through an outlet or USB would be preferred


Any recommendations on one that is less than $100 and available to shipped to Canada?

Fiio E7 does the job for me. I use it with my Denon d2000 and triplefi 10
 

LCfiner

Member
I'm in the market for a portable amplifier to go along with the HD558's I bought earlier this year

Mostly interested in having it connected to my PC at all times. So one that charges through an outlet or USB would be preferred


Any recommendations on one that is less than $100 and available to shipped to Canada?

If you don't need one with a screen or internal battery, you can get a Fiio E10 for 80 bucks. (20 cheaper than the E7). for those of us in Canada, headphonebar.com is the fiio distributor.
 

Max

I am not Max
I was just looking at the FiiO E11, do you know how it compares?

I'm unsure if I'd want to shell out the extra $30 or so for the E7

edit: Oooe, E10 sounds like a good middle-ground then
 

SteveO409

Did you know Halo invented the FPS?
I was just looking at the FiiO E11, do you know how it compares?

I'm unsure if I'd want to shell out the extra $30 or so for the E7

edit: Oooe, E10 sounds like a good middle-ground then

I'm not sure about e10 but chose the e7 for the 2 jack connectors. Its convenient to have my pc speakers and headphones plugged in all the time
 

IceCold

Member
I've heard that there are problems with the head phone socket on the e10. The new version (3rd one) with the new socket is supposed to ship on February.

edit: Source: http://www.head-fi.org/t/575084/impression-fiio-e10/630

The first (current) reversion has nothing to do with build quality. The only thing that has been changed is the silkscreen laser printing for the bass boost switch. The reason to change it is because some user think it is confusing to use words like "ON / BASS" for on and off of bass boost. So the decision is to change it to "ON - BASS - OFF" to make it clear of which way is on and which way is off. So why does FiiO chose to use "ON / BASS" in the first place? Because they are not native English speaker, so they are trying to make it as simple as it can be (which turned out to be the wrong way). It is a silly language error, not a build quality issue.

The next (2nd) reversion will have two changes: One is the mini jack in the front, and another is the use of new gold plated RCA jack. The mini jack issue is the problem of jack being not compatible to not-up-to-spec mini plug. Though we all call it 3.5mm jack, the fact is it often varies from 3.45mm to 3.55mm. Coupled with the fact that the mini jack itself is metal and not quite as flexible as plastic jack, some headphone plug doesn't fully contact with the pins which result in static or signal lost. For the few thousand units they have sold so far, some do report back with bad jack issue. But if you read this whole thread, you will know the number of report are relative small compared to the units they have sold. This is the only build quality issue we have here. As for why they used the metal jack - it is because they have use it before and it turns out to be fine on other amps. But regardless, they are will to change it to another jack to eliminate the issue once and for all.

The change of RCA jack on the other hand is, again, not a build quality issue. They are doing a simple upgrade of RCA jack on most of their production line up, including E10, D3, D5, and E9 (and the later three has been in market for a few months now without any RCA failure). The old RCA jack works just fine - the upgrade is simply to make the amp and DAC look shinier and has nothing to do with whether these amp / DAC are mature product or not.
 

thatbox

Banned
I was just looking at the FiiO E11, do you know how it compares?

I'm unsure if I'd want to shell out the extra $30 or so for the E7

edit: Oooe, E10 sounds like a good middle-ground then

The E10 isn't portable, if that's still a criteria. The only input is USB.
 

omgkitty

Member
So I ended up buying some Shure SE215's from Amazon, and tbh, I kind of don't dig them. The over the ear guide is a pain in the ass to get right, and after about an hour, my ears just kind of hurt. I was wondering if anyone here has experience returning open items to Amazon and if they will just take them back and give me a full refund or do I have to say something is wrong with them?
 

Ashhong

Member
I was just looking at the FiiO E11, do you know how it compares?

I'm unsure if I'd want to shell out the extra $30 or so for the E7

edit: Oooe, E10 sounds like a good middle-ground then

What are your needs? I went through the E5, E11 and E7 and ended up sticking with the E11 since it has the best amp out of all 3. I realized I didn't need a DAC so the E7 wasn't necessary, as well as the E10, which can't be used without a computer.

edit: my bad, just scrolled up. Sounds like E7 is what you want.
 

Geneijin

Member
Have any of these differences been found in a blind test?

Because unless they are, it's just your brain having fun with you.
And I'm asking how's it any different A/B'ing different phones again? I ain't even talking about cables here, which you're conflating my argument into. I've stated my testing methods. You're entitled to flatly deny such form of testing just as I am likely to read such claims with a margin of error. What's your experience doing non-blind tests? I'm not saying my opinion is better because I did, but I'm interested on your own findings.

Like I said, I've contrasted the E7/E9 combo against the Xonar Essence STX/E9 with the AKG K271 and M50 as my equipment, and I've more or less satisfied my answer. Not enough to spend hundreds because of the diminishing returns and perceivable differences involved, so I've set my limits accordingly.
 

jokkir

Member
Are the FiiO E6 good enough for the HD558's or should I dish out more money for a better amp? Does the 558 even need to be powered with an amp? and how much would it benefit from it?
 

Max

I am not Max
What are your needs? I went through the E5, E11 and E7 and ended up sticking with the E11 since it has the best amp out of all 3. I realized I didn't need a DAC so the E7 wasn't necessary, as well as the E10, which can't be used without a computer.

edit: my bad, just scrolled up. Sounds like E7 is what you want.

Does the E7 have a different way of being charged or something?

Since you've used all three and prefer the E11, i'm leaning more towards that now, and it's cheaper
 

Geneijin

Member
So I ended up buying some Shure SE215's from Amazon, and tbh, I kind of don't dig them. The over the ear guide is a pain in the ass to get right, and after about an hour, my ears just kind of hurt. I was wondering if anyone here has experience returning open items to Amazon and if they will just take them back and give me a full refund or do I have to say something is wrong with them?
I'll say this: you're more likely to get a full return if you say something is wrong with them. A regular return involves paying the shipping back and a chance of paying a restocking fee.

Good luck.
 
AKG K 702s are going back. Was getting headaches after a few hours from the head band for one. Two, I noticed more and more the bass felt more just chopped off and missing. I don't like excessive distorted bass, but I do like good representation of the range. Now using the Sennheiser HD650s. They are a step up from the 595s I've been using for sure. They solve my original problem with the V-Drums when mixed with low tom/bass heavy music. The bass is probably not stronger I'd say, but just a lot more clear. The 595s' bass sounds kind of muddy in comparison. I will definitely be hanging onto these.
 

ElyrionX

Member
Not to say you're wrong or anything, but this line of thinking has always puzzled me. If I plug two identical (for the sake of argument) headphones into two different systems, and A/B them, why wouldn't I be able to tell the difference, if there is a difference? If one has a very narrow soundstage, and then I switch to the other pair and it has a much more open soundstage, why is that finding invalid? Why (or how) would my brain be able to say "Okay, that one is going to have a much bigger soundstage when we put them on"?

Maybe it takes a blind test to pick out subtle differences, but I refuse to believe that it does for huge differences.

Not to discredit the claim that most of what's written on head-fi is rubbish or anything. There is a whole lot of snake oil and group think going on there, and it's been happening for years.

You're right to a certain extent. It doesn't take a blind test to show that you can tell the difference between a Denon D2000 and a Grado SR80. The diffirences are big enough from the start that a sighted test wouldn't be entirely inaccurate.

What blind tests are useful for is when it comes to things that make very subtle changes to the sound such as cables, DAC and even file formats.
 

Ill Saint

Member
Very tired of the mini jack failing on headphones. I don't have a lot to spend, but could use some recommendations on sub $100 cans (no in ear buds please). They'd be used pretty much exclusively for portable listening so something light, compact and comfortable is preferred, but sound quality is priority. I've gone through PX100 and Koss PortaPro so far.

Sol Republic? Incase Reflex? Something else? Any suggestions are appreciated!
 

sprsk

force push the doodoo rock
So I decided I'm gonna return my beats, the sound leak is just unacceptable.

So now I have 300 bucks to spend on headphones (well if they take them back that is), what does everyone recommend? My brother was telling me I should get seinheisers, but which model?

I want cans, and I want to be able to wear them on the train without bothering others.
 

HiResDes

Member
So I decided I'm gonna return my beats, the sound leak is just unacceptable.

So now I have 300 bucks to spend on headphones (well if they take them back that is), what does everyone recommend? My brother was telling me I should get seinheisers, but which model?

I want cans, and I want to be able to wear them on the train without bothering others.
Pioneer HDJ-2000
 

nib95

Banned
it’s something you read a lot on head-fi. the idea is that, say, you have a “bright" headphone and a “warm” amp so there’s “synergy” between the two providing a more balanced sound.

personally, I think it’s an overused and misused term. there’s too much over thinking in the community when people are spending way too much money on sources and amps.

That's what I assumed but wanted to be sure of before I posted.

Honestly, I STRONGLY disagree with the above posters who say synergy does not exist. (Bitmap Frog and to a lesser extent ElyrionX) I am 100% sure I could, blindfolded tell you differences between certain amps and headphones dependant on such synergy. I can say that because I have blind tested with my equipment, and a range of equipment, and found that certain amps, do indeed offer different sound signatures to different headphones.

Whilst there's no exact science to it (since all amps and headphones have unique sound signatures) combining different amps and headphones together does offer up different levels of 'synergy'.

I have several amps and portable amps for example, and do not use the best or most expensive with all of my headphones and earphones. Quite the contrary, I use whatever amp I personally find has the best synergy with it sonically.

For example, portably speaking. I use my ALO Continental with my Beyer T1, as this hybrid tube amp has a warmer tone, that mellows out the highs somewhat, and gives the overall sound more body. This is perfect for the T1, which is by default a bit more hot on the high frequencies, and absolutely adores tube amps. They truly smoothen out the sound somewhat, at least with the one's I've tried. My SR-71A by comparison, is a bit colder sounding and extenuates the highs a bit more than I'd like (can lead to sibilance here and there which I never get with the tube amps), and takes away some of the fullness of the bass. Add to that the soundstage is much smaller.

With my Westone 4's, even though I have 2-3 other top portable amps to choose from, I actually use it most with my JDS cMoyBB. It might not have the clarity or detail of the SR-71B, but it does have a bit more low end bloat, and a slightly wider soundstage, which is preferable to me personally when using the W4's.
The ALO Continental when paired with the W4's, does offer a huge soundstage, but warms the sound a bit too much and removes a bit more of a sparkle from the highs still. I value the middle ground the JDS cMoy offers (with the W4 anyway). Middle of the road detailing, softer (slightly less defined but more prominent) bass and medium high frequency extension (as oppose to SR-71A's more glaring detail, and the Continentals warmer, smoother signature). The soundstage also falls in-between that of the SR-71A and Continental.


Honestly, synergy is a huge deal. It can make a real, tangible and noticeable difference to the balance or marriage of devices such as an amp and headphone. I actually use my T1's with the SR-71A from time to time when I want a more confined, focused, studio esque sound, as oppose to the smoother more open and warm sound the Continental offers.
 
Need a little help from Headphone-GAF.

I have a 360/PS3. Lots of late night gaming sessions. Things tend to get a little loud. My Skyrim shouts bring either a child or the wife out to ask me to turn it down.

So I'm researching headsets. Requirements:

- gotta be wireless. I'm a good 10-12 feet from the TV, so I don't feel like fucking with wires.
- budget max is $150, but would prefer to keep it around $100
- would prefer something that would work with both the 360 and the PS3, but 360 is the priority (that's where all my multiplayer gaming happens)

I'm 75% of the way to pulling the trigger on Ear Force X41s on Amazon ($140). Should I go for them or is there a better solution? Also, I have the Slim, so do I need anything else to setup the X41s if that's the best solution?
 

tokkun

Member
Honestly, I STRONGLY disagree with the above posters who say synergy does not exist.


There's really no reason to argue this through anecdotal evidence. It's very simple from a signal processing standpoint: When you put two systems in series, the overall transfer function is the product of the individual transfer functions.

That said, I don't think "synergy" is doing anything better than what you can do with a simple equalizer.
 
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