I see. All I know about clay and polish is that they attempt to restore the paint to some degree. And I only tried it coz I was bored, and my Miata would be officially be a 10 year old come August lol.
What do you think about the products I used: Meguiar's gold class soap, the Mothers California Gold clay kit with the packed in detailer, Meguiars clear coat safe polishing compound, and Mothers synthetic wax.
I know for sure that Meguiars soap is the best of the best, but the other 3 I bought just because they were on sale at O'Reilly haha. I got the synthetic wax for free by buying the clay kit and the polish compound was down to $5 bucks lolol.
I apologize for the late reply. I come to this thread every so often anymore (busy sucks).
Meguiars makes good stuff for your average chain store, though their detailers choice clay is good. That's really about it. Their gold class car wash smells so damn good though.
My advice is to go to Autogeek.net and get some different products. My go to's for my car and my clients are:
Claybar: Wolfgang/Meguiars DC
Swirl Reducer: Wolfgang
Polish: Wolfgang
Wax: Pinnacle
Interior: 303 Aerospace protectant (seriously, it's so good, not greasy, not overly shiny, lasts so long, proven UV defense)
Wax or polish is your choice. Polish for a "clear" shine, wax for a "warm glow" like I said earlier. Wolfgang polishes are fantastic, easy to use, and last for a damn long time, even in my shit climate with winter salt and industrial parks. The wax is a little tougher to work with, lasts longer than your average wax, and has such a nice warm glow to the paint in light if that's your thing.
That 303 though for your interior is a must have for anyone IMHO.
TMK, water injection (which I used on my WRX way back when) is to essentially reduce the chance of knock/predetonation in really high compression situations.
I read stuff online like, "to cool key parts" but that sounds wrong, because you don't get detonation from a hot turbocharger. Though maybe the hot turbo increases the temp of the air to the point that it detonates?
In any case, my understanding when I did it was that it essentially increases the octane rating of your fuel. That is to say, it makes the fuel harder to combust by introducing water in it. So you can program for high octane/race fuel tunes, which is what I did, without the knock/predet issues.
It can slightly impact direct temps, but it's for the knock more than anything, you're correct.
I need some advice...
I have a 2008 Evo X which I like quite a bit, unfortunately the clearcoat on the roof has started to bubble and peel in one small section. It's pretty surprising since it's been kept pretty clean and parked in my garage for the last few years. Unfortunately it's a 2008 model that I acquired in 2009 so I assume it was sitting on the dealer lot for quite a while.
I guess this means that either Mitsubishi paint sucks ass (they cheap out on everything else after all), or I didn't do as good a job as I thought at washing/waxing it.
In any case, I'm planning on taking it to some places to get estimates to see if there are any real options for repairing it, but everything I've heard suggests that there's not a whole lot that can be done (at least long term). The specific section can theoretically be cleaned up and blended with the rest of the paint, but it won't ever be great and certainly wouldn't stop the paint in other areas from having the same issue. My main fear is that it's just a matter of time until the rest of the paint goes, and then it's pretty much toast. If that's the case I should probably just sell it but this will obviously hurt the resale.
Do not blend in clear. I've had nothing but bad luck each time from different shops. Get the whole "section/panel" done. Not only can you get lifting issues, but you can sometimes notice a clarity issue between brands, let alone age of the clear. It likely won't look uniform.
Welcome to mitsu paint quality. I been there. They didn't even clear my side mirrors on my old Evo 8... lol. Mitsu and Subaru have been fighting it out for a long time with not only having the most dominate "WRC" car, but also shittiest paint quality from any Japanese maker.