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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

If that in fact is the problem, I can't believe it passed QC like that. Ill be calling the dealership first thing in the morning on Monday to make sure its repaired correctly. The other person who had the same issue said his dealership replaced the complete axles in the front. Should I be demanding that if all they want to do is replace the CV boots? Mind you, the car was driven over 300 miles with this issue before I noticed it.

I initially said it appeared that the clamps failed--in your pictures of the fronts, the clamps appeared to be there, but hanging loosely and covered in grease--but it was hard to make out. To me this says they were either under- or over-tightened and came loose/snapped while driving. I can't imagine they could ship the car from the factory without those clamps in place whatsoever. If it really seems the clamps were never in place or never functioning properly, 300 miles without the joint packed in grease would probably be enough to weaken it from excess heat and to allow foreign materials and moisture into it. I'd definitely want my front axles replaced if it seems this problem came direct from the showroom floor.

'merica.
 

Darknight

Member
Um can I ask a car question real quick?

I bought a certified preowned vehicle from a near dealer and took it home but now I see the front bumper is loose. I dont want to force anything because I may break off some of the lights down there where they go. So would my dealer fix this shit or is it coming out of my pocket? I just bought the darn thing and my first time buying. So yea my fault for not looking at every nook and cranny. (This is something I didnt do either. Havent rode it that much or hit a curve)
 
Um can I ask a car question real quick?

I bought a certified preowned vehicle from a near dealer and took it home but now I see the front bumper is loose. I dont want to force anything because I may break off some of the lights down there where they go. So would my dealer fix this shit or is it coming out of my pocket? I just bought the darn thing and my first time buying. So yea my fault for not looking at every nook and cranny. (This is something I didnt do either. Havent rode it that much or hit a curve)
Certified pre-owned cars usually have a bumper to bumper warranty. Bring it in ASAP.
 
Looks real sharp and good on you for only driving manuals. I'm 3 of 5 in my car ownership lifetime.

Intakes are good for making your car sound meaner but are pretty negligible for power increases.

Here is an interesting video on intakes.

http://youtu.be/gCi2yo4UqPI

:( I was only going to get one after seeing a video on youtube of a mustang on a dyno before and after a CAI and the difference in performance.

Certified pre-owned cars usually have a bumper to bumper warranty. Bring it in ASAP.

All certified preowned are bumper to bumper for some length. They differ by brand though so yeah, bring it in as soon as you can.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Certified pre-owned cars usually have a bumper to bumper warranty. Bring it in ASAP.

CPO cars are most certainly NOT bumper-to-bumper. They are actually extremely limited warranties. The only time you have the most of the warranty is when the car is still new enough to be covered under its original factory warranty (the first 3 years or 4 years, depending on brand).

In the instance here with a body panel issue, if your dealer isn't an asshole they should fix it. Bring it right back. But they can always blame it on you and say you hit something and popped it. Warrantees don't cover body damage of any sort.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
CPO cars are most certainly NOT bumper-to-bumper. They are actually extremely limited warranties. The only time you have the most of the warranty is when the car is still new enough to be covered under its original factory warranty (the first 3 years or 4 years, depending on brand).

In the instance here with a body panel issue, if your dealer isn't an asshole they should fix it. Bring it right back. But they can always blame it on you and say you hit something and popped it. Warrantees don't cover body damage of any sort.

I second this.

Wish you the best of luck getting the body panel repaired. If it's a good dealer then they will do it free of charge because they know it will get you to come back to them for future service.
 

ruxtpin

Banned
I love coming across dopey errors on autotrader.

1. Found a 2004 350Z listed for a fabulous $115,000! And it only has 90k miles.

2. Found a GT-R with a "claimed" 0-60 time of .27 seconds.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I'm looking into getting an Infiniti M35, any Infiniti/Nissan owners have an experience, good or bad, with one?
I love my EX35 more and more every day. I think it's passed up my 2004 WRX as most favorite car I've owned. In a lot of ways, it feels a grown up's WRX hatchback.

Alpha has an M56, not quite the same, but he loves it.
 
CPO cars are most certainly NOT bumper-to-bumper. They are actually extremely limited warranties. The only time you have the most of the warranty is when the car is still new enough to be covered under its original factory warranty (the first 3 years or 4 years, depending on brand).

In the instance here with a body panel issue, if your dealer isn't an asshole they should fix it. Bring it right back. But they can always blame it on you and say you hit something and popped it. Warrantees don't cover body damage of any sort.
Well the CPO car I just bought did come with an extended bumper to bumper 2yr/30k mile warranty.

I thought that was a major point of getting a CPO car. I also get the balance of the other warranties such as the 5yr/100k powertrain warranty.
 

TxdoHawk

Member
Well the CPO car I just bought did come with an extended bumper to bumper 2yr/30k mile warranty.

I thought that was a major point of getting a CPO car. I also get the balance of the other warranties such as the 5yr/100k powertrain warranty.

Depends entirely on the company, the warranty, and what they actually honor versus what they claim to honor. It can vary incredibly wildly, and some companies that offer CPO cars have different "levels" of protection.

Unrelated: I'm assuming some of you are starting on detailing now that Spring is (kind of, sort of, basically) here? I went nose-first into Autogeek for advice and bought some wash/clay/sealant. Hoping Klasse will do enough to hide the mild spiderwebbing on my black paint (otherwise it's time to look into paint correction, I guess.)
 

cajunator

Banned
Do yall ever find yourself watching Velocity channel for long periods of time? My Classic Car, All those car tuning shows like Overhaulin, Auto auctions, Motorweek, 5th Gear, those buy and flip shows, etc? I can spend a whole day watching that stuff. Just cars all day.
 

AwesomeSauce

MagsMoonshine
Do yall ever find yourself watching Velocity channel for long periods of time? My Classic Car, All those car tuning shows like Overhaulin, Auto auctions, Motorweek, 5th Gear, those buy and flip shows, etc? I can spend a whole day watching that stuff. Just cars all day.

I can watch Wheeler Dealers all day.
 

TylerD

Member
Do yall ever find yourself watching Velocity channel for long periods of time? My Classic Car, All those car tuning shows like Overhaulin, Auto auctions, Motorweek, 5th Gear, those buy and flip shows, etc? I can spend a whole day watching that stuff. Just cars all day.

Yes when I had it. You forgot Wheeeler Deealers. Love that show.
 
Depends entirely on the company, the warranty, and what they actually honor versus what they claim to honor. It can vary incredibly wildly, and some companies that offer CPO cars have different "levels" of protection.
I understand different manufacturers may have different warranty plans. It's like that for new cars. But what would be the point in getting CPO if there is no warranty coverage different from a standard used car?

In my case it is Chevy pre-owned. And I was mistaken. It is a 1yr/12k bumper to bumper, 2yr/24k service plan (oil changes and tire rotations), and a transfer of all other warranties like power train. There is a 3 day/150 mile guarantee after purchase. These are all backed by Chevy directly as part of their standard CPO program.
 
Do yall ever find yourself watching Velocity channel for long periods of time? My Classic Car, All those car tuning shows like Overhaulin, Auto auctions, Motorweek, 5th Gear, those buy and flip shows, etc? I can spend a whole day watching that stuff. Just cars all day.

I wish Velocity had racing on it instead of "Billy Bob Garage" and "Hektik Redneck Skidz"

WRC, F1, BTCC, DTM, WTCC, etc. :[

I recently got a free upgrade to whatever the next best tier of garbage cable TV is, and the first thing I saw on it was 24 Hours of Le Mans, got really excited, and then realized it was a three-hour long jack-off-a-thon of Patrick Dipshit Dempsey and his "racing" "career".
 

robox

Member
old school speedvision was the best
wrc, alms, speed world challenge, jgtc, dtm, av8sc...
then they got bought and turned into fox's all nascar all the time channel
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I'm looking into getting an Infiniti M35, any Infiniti/Nissan owners have an experience, good or bad, with one?

No bad experience to speak of, they are rock solid and highly reliable. The facelifted 2009 car has a much better engine and a 7-speed transmission, as well as updated interior. So a 2009-2010, RWD (if weather allows) is the one to get. Ideally, you'd want the third generation 2011 M37 though...

What's your budget?
 

ShowDog

Member
Do yall ever find yourself watching Velocity channel for long periods of time? My Classic Car, All those car tuning shows like Overhaulin, Auto auctions, Motorweek, 5th Gear, those buy and flip shows, etc? I can spend a whole day watching that stuff. Just cars all day.

My pop loves Velocity Channel, mentions it all the time. I'm stuck with antenna, but I really want to catch Wheeler Dealers sometime at the very least.

I'm finally getting my car back at the end of the week! It's been about 5 weeks since some moron rammed into the back. I'm gonna drive the absolute piss out of it every chance I get from here forward. Might as well, never know how long it will be around with all the other idiots cramming up the roads.
 

Camp Lo

Banned
No bad experience to speak of, they are rock solid and highly reliable. The facelifted 2009 car has a much better engine and a 7-speed transmission, as well as updated interior. So a 2009-2010, RWD (if weather allows) is the one to get. Ideally, you'd want the third generation 2011 M37 though...

What's your budget?

I've found a couple M35X around here under 20 with 50-60K miles. I've got about 7K to drop as a down payment. I'll keep a look out for 2009-2010 though. I don't really care for the newer 'smoother' redesign that 2011 and onward have, but that said, I haven't really looked into the M37, just M35 and at times G35.
 

asdad123

Member
Im BEYOND fuming right now. Picked up my Jeep today after work at 5PM and had to rush to class for 530. On the way to class I hear a rattle coming from the front end. This noise was not there prior to the repair. It clunks and rattles on even a freshly paved road.

I get home at 7:30 (the service is already closed), and drive it up onto ramps that I have to take a look underneath and this is what I see.






Since it was already too late to call service back, I cleaned it off myself. Took three rolls of paper towels and an hour, but this is how the car should have been returned.







I cannot believe they left all of that grease all over the place. That is a safety hazard! And to top it all of, this rattle is happening all the time. I will be going back first thing tomorrow morning. The question is to call Chrysler prior to that. They emailed me this afternoon stating "Hoping your concerns have been addressed".

352 miles and going back to service for a second time!
 

asdad123

Member
You bought it new, right? Lemon it dude. Fuck them.

Yes new. Cant lemon it since in NJ it requires two repairs attempts and the defect to still be there. This was just the first attempt.

I just dropped it off with the key drop at the dealership and will call them 7:30 in the morning (they open at 7). Im guessing this will count at attempt number 2.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Yes new. Cant lemon it since in NJ it requires two repairs attempts and the defect to still be there. This was just the first attempt.

I just dropped it off with the key drop at the dealership and will call them 7:30 in the morning (they open at 7). Im guessing this will count at attempt number 2.

Tri-state dealers are such fucking SCUMBAGS. I fucking hated them with a passion. I cannot believe they didn't clean the car off. And I can't believe they didn't test drive to make sure nothing is rattling - so careless and so unsafe.

It sounds like a loose endlink up front or maybe a loose strut.
 

asdad123

Member
Tri-state dealers are such fucking SCUMBAGS. I fucking hated them with a passion. I cannot believe they didn't clean the car off. And I can't believe they didn't test drive to make sure nothing is rattling - so careless and so unsafe.

It sounds like a loose endlink up front or maybe a loose strut.

I ended up leaving the car last night in the key drop. I left them all the pictures of how the left the car and a letter stating that the rattle and condition I received it back is unacceptable. This is day 7 without the car. I'm less annoyed by the rattle (even though it is ridiculously audible) than the grease not being cleaned off. That just blew my mind when I saw it still there.

I will call them today at 730 and ask to speak with the service manager. I had two people drive with me last night to see if they notice the rattle, and they heard it while leaving the driveway. It can also be heard on the footage from my dashboard camera. If I do not have my car back by 3 today, I will be contacting Chrysler corporate.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
The tech was probably out of time and lazy with your repair. Fixing clamps on CV boots would pay next to nothing, so he probably just wanted it off his lift.
That doesn't excuse his shoddy work though.

The clunk is probably from a loose bolt on your out tie rod end or brake caliper. Most likely a safety hazard and another indication that the mechanic that worked on your vehicle is lazy.

This wouldn't hold water in a lemon case though, it's just shitty workmanship by the tech at the dealer.
 

kehs

Banned
Im BEYOND fuming right now. Picked up my Jeep today after work at 5PM and had to rush to class for 530. On the way to class I hear a rattle coming from the front end. This noise was not there prior to the repair. It clunks and rattles on even a freshly paved road.

I get home at 7:30 (the service is already closed), and drive it up onto ramps that I have to take a look underneath and this is what I see.

[

Since it was already too late to call service back, I cleaned it off myself. Took three rolls of paper towels and an hour, but this is how the car should have been returned.



I cannot believe they left all of that grease all over the place. That is a safety hazard! And to top it all of, this rattle is happening all the time. I will be going back first thing tomorrow morning. The question is to call Chrysler prior to that. They emailed me this afternoon stating "Hoping your concerns have been addressed".

352 miles and going back to service for a second time!


A quick glance at the end links looks like there's a bushing missing, which could have caused the initial problem to begin with:

Q9XeLjV.jpg


Try and look for a picture/diagram of your suspension, but that doesn't look right to me.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
A quick glance at the end links looks like there's a bushing missing, which could have caused the initial problem to begin with:

Based on his pictures, it looks like it's the same on the other side. So that is probably normal for the vehicle.
 

asdad123

Member
A quick glance at the end links looks like there's a bushing missing, which could have caused the initial problem to begin with:

Q9XeLjV.jpg


Try and look for a picture/diagram of your suspension, but that doesn't look right to me.

Does this help with anything?

http://www.mopar.com/jeep/grand-cherokee/2014/shop/357387/214/4378/





I have no idea what I'm looking for. The reason I bought a new car is so I don't have to deal with shit like this.

Looking at the service report it says

"Customer states check for squeaking sound in front of vehicle when driving at any speed. Saw grease or oil leak from front area. Inspected related components. Found right and left front axle boots leaking due to material failure. Replaced left and right front axle shafts. Rechecked and roadtested. Vehicle functioning as designed at this time."

The rechecked and roadtested part just ticks me off.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Nope, that link is for the differential. What he was pointing to is your sway/stabilizer bar end link.

Based on the other side from your pictures it's designed to look like that and isn't something to worry about. Wouldn't hurt to mention it to the service adviser though to have them double check.

edit: This is the link you need. http://www.mopar.com/jeep/grand-cherokee/2014/shop/357387/44/3121/
Looks like there's no washer or bushing there.
 
I have no idea what I'm looking for. The reason I bought a new car is so I don't have to deal with shit like this.

Looking at the service report it says

"Customer states check for squeaking sound in front of vehicle when driving at any speed. Saw grease or oil leak from front area. Inspected related components. Found right and left front axle boots leaking due to material failure. Replaced left and right front axle shafts. Rechecked and roadtested. Vehicle functioning as designed at this time."

The rechecked and roadtested part just ticks me off.

Roadtested probably means he drove it around the parking lot while turning the wheel hard to check for noises that would indicate he put the axles in wrong. I doubt he went far enough for it to start slinging grease like it did.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
A quick glance at the end links looks like there's a bushing missing, which could have caused the initial problem to begin with:

Q9XeLjV.jpg


Try and look for a picture/diagram of your suspension, but that doesn't look right to me.

That is normal for suspension geometry. The top looks almost the same. But it still very well could be that is the end link that is rattling about, though not for missing anything.
 

asdad123

Member
Just heard back from the dealership. They said the brake plate wasn't seated correctly and that was what was causing the problem. Wtf?

They said it's ready to be picked up. Just before I pick it up, should they have replaced the brake plate or just placed back on. I would think driving with an incorrectly placed brake plate would cause it to get damaged.
 
Just heard back from the dealership. They said the brake plate wasn't seated correctly and that was what was causing the problem. Wtf?

They said it's ready to be picked up. Just before I pick it up, should they have replaced the brake plate or just placed back on. I would think driving with an incorrectly placed brake plate would cause it to get damaged.

Did they say Back Plate? Just re-seating that should be ok.
 

asdad123

Member
Did they say Back Plate? Just re-seating that should be ok.

They said brake plate so I assume backplate? They said it wasn't seated correctly and as the car drove, it must have come loose (which does explain why the noise started off from only at times when I picked it up at 5 to pretty much all the time by 9)

Drove roughly 25 miles.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
They said brake plate so I assume backplate? They said it wasn't seated correctly and as the car drove, it must have come loose (which does explain why the noise started off from only at times when I picked it up at 5 to pretty much all the time by 9)

Drove roughly 25 miles.

It's good to hear that you got it fixed, but It sounds to me like you are dealing with an incompetent dealership when it comes to customer service.

I would get your vehicle fixed as much as you care for, then never go back to that place.
 
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