There wasnt a point, I used it until a used high flow cat popped up for sale and the fruity smells bottle is how I got over it in the meantime. My full exhaust only gave a few horses but eh, college kid wanting to do mods couldn't help it.
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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86
- Thread starter AlphaSnake
- Start date
There wasnt a point, I used it until a used high flow cat popped up for sale and the fruity smells bottle is how I got over it in the meantime. My full exhaust only gave a few horses but eh, college kid wanting to do mods couldn't help it.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I had test pipes on both the 350Z and 370Z and the smell isn't bad at all, actually. And Zs required a pair (1 for each side of the manifold). It's a sweeter smell...like gasoline. But you ONLY smell it if you're stuck in traffic or at a long red light and if the wind blows it towards your windows. Otherwise, it never bothered me. Especially with the windows up.
Nobody ever even noticed it, to be honest.
couldnt this differ pretty significantly by car though?
m_shortpants
Member
Test drove the ND a few days ago.
Pros
-----
+ Awesome steering feel.
+ Convertibles are fun in the sun.
With the top down it wasn't hard to talk to the passenger at highway speeds.
+ Best looking Miata for sure. Sure it's a bit try hard in the manly department, but in person it works. (I'm not a Miata purist, so others may hate the new look).
+ Grand Touring model (the one I tested) has a nice interior for a a $30k Japanese car. Way better than say a WRX or BRZ.
+ The car feels more exciting in the turns at low speed due to the almost comical body roll.
+ Track days would be very economical. Save on gas, brakes, tires easily.
Cons
-------
- It's slow.
- It's really slow.
- Like the BRZ felt like it could use a turbo, whereas this feels like it could use a heartbeat.
- It's cramped. I'm 6'0 and I felt like with the top down I'd be smoshed, forget wearing a helmet with top down.
- It's impractical for anything other than a weekend car. No trunk space. You want the top down so no bad weather driving.
- Not many extra features (infotainment, etc.)
- Sure the body roll makes the 40 MPH turn you made feel more exciting, but also feels kind of concerning. A car all about handling shouldn't be so spongey in the turns. I'm projecting (since I didn't test it on the track), but a real high speed turn might freak you out on a track day.
Verdict
----
I'd buy it. It's a ton of fun. It's a joy to drive. It feels like a baby Cayman/Boxster for half the price. Would I buy it over a used Boxster? Honestly It depends on what you're looking for. Want more luxury and more acceleration? Get the Boxster.
It's way too similar a car to my Cayman GTS to purchase as an additional car for me though (not that I'm looking anyway). The Cayman does everything the Miata does, but way better (for triple the price obviously).
Bottom line. Great car even if it's slow as lava. Probably better that way for ticket avoidance and track days though!
Have you ever driven an S2000? How would you compare the two?
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I wondered about that, but the smell of combustion really should be pretty consistent all around. The smell will likely only differ if you're running extremely rich, in which case it'll probably smell sweeter, I'd imagine.
I drove a friend's S2000CR, but it was years ago so I don't remember much. :/ other than it was super cramped lol
RapidCancel
Member
If anyone needs or wants a carfax ran, just PM me, I have unlimited for a little less than a month left. I'm all out of VIN checks, but if you can get the license # and state, I can run those.
djSyndrome
Member
Test drove the ND a few days ago.
Oooooh, Dougs Mazda. Had my 2 serviced there a few times. Good people.
The NC was fine for me (6'0, 195 lbs). What happened - is it actually smaller inside?
Test drove the ND a few days ago.
Pros
-----
+ Awesome steering feel.
+ Convertibles are fun in the sun.
With the top down it wasn't hard to talk to the passenger at highway speeds.
+ Best looking Miata for sure. Sure it's a bit try hard in the manly department, but in person it works. (I'm not a Miata purist, so others may hate the new look).
+ Grand Touring model (the one I tested) has a nice interior for a a $30k Japanese car. Way better than say a WRX or BRZ.
+ The car feels more exciting in the turns at low speed due to the almost comical body roll.
+ Track days would be very economical. Save on gas, brakes, tires easily.
Cons
-------
- It's slow.
- It's really slow.
- Like the BRZ felt like it could use a turbo, whereas this feels like it could use a heartbeat.
- It's cramped. I'm 6'0 and I felt like with the top down I'd be smoshed, forget wearing a helmet with top down.
- It's impractical for anything other than a weekend car. No trunk space. You want the top down so no bad weather driving.
- Not many extra features (infotainment, etc.)
- Sure the body roll makes the 40 MPH turn you made feel more exciting, but also feels kind of concerning. A car all about handling shouldn't be so spongey in the turns. I'm projecting (since I didn't test it on the track), but a real high speed turn might freak you out on a track day.
Verdict
----
I'd buy it. It's a ton of fun. It's a joy to drive. It feels like a baby Cayman/Boxster for half the price. Would I buy it over a used Boxster? Honestly It depends on what you're looking for. Want more luxury and more acceleration? Get the Boxster.
It's way too similar a car to my Cayman GTS to purchase as an additional car for me though (not that I'm looking anyway). The Cayman does everything the Miata does, but way better (for triple the price obviously).
Bottom line. Great car even if it's slow as lava. Probably better that way for ticket avoidance and track days though!
It's funny how our standards have changed. I believe my 2007 Boxster 0-60 was about the same as this new Miata. Both are now considered somewhat slow for a sports car. I think the Boxster should have been quicker but the gearing is much taller whereas the new Miata has very short gearing.
Regardless, I would have to think long and hard before owning another convertible. In most cases I would rather have a fixed roof sports car like the Cayman.
Yup, I had one on my S14 for about 4 years and didn't have any issues with smell.
LucidMomentum
Member
So my friend is moving onto a WRX and is parting out the mods on his BRZ.
He has an electric motor driven supercharger:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39719
That I've been eying as a way to get over the torque dip and get some boost on the cheap, so I went and put a deposit on him not selling it to anyone else. When he uninstalls everything I should be able to pay for the rest of it, if not a week or so later.
This should tide me over until I save enough for a formal SC, if I don't find it enough power to satisfy me that is. If we had E85 readily available I'd think it would be perfect.
He has an electric motor driven supercharger:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39719
That I've been eying as a way to get over the torque dip and get some boost on the cheap, so I went and put a deposit on him not selling it to anyone else. When he uninstalls everything I should be able to pay for the rest of it, if not a week or so later.
This should tide me over until I save enough for a formal SC, if I don't find it enough power to satisfy me that is. If we had E85 readily available I'd think it would be perfect.
i'm all set on the hfc then, as is always the case in this debate, i get people saying the opposite. ah well, i think my mind is made up with a hfc. better safe then sorry.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
Interesting. Electric superchargers are one of those things that can be done but everyone agrees really shouldn't be. This one actually looks to be effective as it's using two 12V batteries dumping charge to get a 4kW motor spinning--a lot of them are just running rinky-dinky leaf-blower motors or something. Problem is 4kW @ 24V is about 170A, which is pretty dangerous, especially with the cables run near the top of the engine where you could touch them. Also, you're not supposed to run car batteries down and recharge them like that, I just don't think they're designed for that sort of constant discharge all the time. Hell, you're supposed to give the battery and starter a break after turning the motor over so much.
Then you've put a massive additional load on the alternator, which I'm sure can take it but just doesn't help, and honestly what's the point of having 90 seconds worth of boost? It's not like it's a drag car, and if you take it to the track you'll be out of juice and lugging around extra weight after two laps.
Just get an actual supercharger. For all the parts on this kit you're spending over $2,000 already, and an actual supercharge is what, four grand? So half the price for a tenth of the product. Not worth it.
Edit: $4,450
Double-edit: I missed that this would just tide you over until you got an actual SC. I'd just say skip it and get the actual SC. If you do that you'll be paying for tuning it with the E-SC and then tuning it again for the SC, which is pure wasted cash.
Ughhhhhh, found out that all 2016 Mercedes will have 5 years of MBrace for free....should have waited. Would have also gotten Apple CarPlay and 10 extra horses on the CLA. The current interface is already nice so CarPlay doesn't matter too much for me and I would have used it for Spotify only. The 10 ponies probably wouldn't have made a difference at all...but 5 years of MBrace is pretty amazing
theSlacker
Member
Yeah, but isn't that the one where you have to put screw holes into your car for? We were talking about why there isn't just a simple oem solution that isn't putting holes in your car.
whatsinaname
Member
Oh, didn't realise you had to drill holes. I assumed it slid into the cup holder.
Didn't even know they had these. I bet it'd be easy to put these on just about any car. At $1-2k it'd be worth it.
Would be really interesting to see a much bigger one with more badass batteries...
Audi A4 is low end now?
What's your priority? Any fun involved? Luxury? Power?
It's one of the most bargain-priced German luxury cars, so yeah. There's a cluster of entry level luxury vehicles between $36k and $42k, and the A4 in particular (for what I need) makes much more sense than an A3 (or one of the tiny BMWs).
Priorities in order are:
1. Balance of features
2. Quiet
3. Comfortable
4. Well equipped
5. Quick*
*Everything I am looking at is reasonably or very fast.
jongkookie
Member
A couple of the Miata locals have electric superchargers and they're pretty damn cool. You don't really use it until you hit the switch on the gas pedal. Otherwise it's just an average stock Miata... hit the switch though and you wake the beast. It's essentially one hell of a sleeper imo.
Amyway, a question for you brake enthusiasts... For brake rotors, slotted or drilled or both?
I'm looking to upgrade my brakes soon as the pads are almost out so I might just swing for a big brake kit and they offer either or both so I'm interested to see on y'all's thoughts about it.
Amyway, a question for you brake enthusiasts... For brake rotors, slotted or drilled or both?
I'm looking to upgrade my brakes soon as the pads are almost out so I might just swing for a big brake kit and they offer either or both so I'm interested to see on y'all's thoughts about it.
IS350?
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
From what I've read the most I'd go with are slotted (better in rain?), but with a miata I bet the stockers are fine. Not a lot of weight so ultimate braking force is less of a concern than heat, and again there's not much weight so if you use a high temp brake fluid along with a slightly more aggressive pad with a higher operating temp you'd be fine on track.
For reference, Miata spec racing uses unslotted rotors, as does Porsche 944 spec racing. Hell, the 944 spec guys are using $30 chinese rotors with $200 pads, and that's plenty of braking for even comp tires.
Edit: Seriously though, the more time you spend looking at discussions on smooth vs. slotted vs. drilled the less you'll learn. Some people swear by them, some people say they're 100% a waste, etc..
I think they're a waste. I'll take the structural integrity of regular rotors over the arguable cooling benefits that slotting and/or drilling brings. I personally believe you'll see far more tangible, efficient benefits by increasing the amount of intake air for your braking system rather than trying to address the issue by changing the rotors.
However, I think Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Porsche slotted/drilled rotors and I assume their engineers must see some benefit from it or else they wouldn't bother. Then again, I'd trust some OEM engineered rotors over some aftermarket rotors where the company goes "Just drill those bitches and add some slotting, we'll charge extra."
rokkerkory
Member
You can't go wrong with A4, 3 Series or C-Class then. I am partial to BMW because it's the most engaging and sporty from driving dynamics perspective and also 3 year free maintenance which adds up to a decent amount of $. The BMW transmission both MT and AT are better than the others.
Of course the new A4 is coming soon and C-Class is near new whereas 3 Series just got LCI mid life refresh. Interior quality and looks I would give to Audi or Merc over BMW anyday.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
Yeah, sometimes OEM performance rotors are slotted, sometimes drilled, but you know they actually engineered the hell out of them for a specific use so they'll be okay. Aftermarkets that have been slotted or drilled? I wouldn't trust those at all unless they're of a very reputable make.
And like you said, better to start elsewhere than the rotors.
rokkerkory
Member
Thanks to Never Dull, my exhaust tips look almost new after only a few mins of polishing / cleaning:
Drilled/Slotted allow brake pad gas and debris build up under heavy braking to be released through the slots and into the vents in the center whcih allows the brake pad better bite, less fade over time (in race conditions) and also better cooling.
Race cars almost always use slotted because slotted dissipates heat with less risk of stress cracking (drilled has more points of weakness under rapid temperature cycling from racing). Slotted rotors also have more brake pad biting surface area. However slotted also increases pad wear (due to more biting surface area vs drilled). But to be honest race applications aren't very helpful to daily drivers.
Most OEM sport/performance cars use drilled rotors because they give added benefit of gas/debris release and better cooling, but are easier on brake pads. Most people never track their sports cars and even the ones that do I'd say use their car 97% of the street and 3% of the track (if that). If you track your car once a month, every month that's only 12 days out of the year vs. 353 days on the street.
If you want performance rotors but want to save a bit on pad wear vented drilled would be your best option. Simply vented brakes are also a good option. If you're building a track only car and have $$$ then might as well do what the race teams do.
jongkookie
Member
I'm actually looking to start autocrossing and track my car next year, hence why I was looking at a big brake kit. The kit also includes stainless steel lines, as well as Hawk HP+ pads for around $600. And nah, they don't offer non-drilled/slotted rotors, otherwise I wouldn't be asking about it lol.
I'll take a look at other kits then.
I'll take a look at other kits then.
Once our lease is up on a 2013 Genesis coupe 2.0, yes we know a terrible mistake, early next year I think I might go with an older Mustang; Mustang II (either with an engine swap already or I'll do it myself), Fox Body, or SN95 as a cheaper muscle car. Ideally I would spend about $5K. It would be a fun secondary vehicle for weekends or date nights with the wife.
LucidMomentum
Member
Yeah the guy who makes them for the FR-S started with making them for Miatas. He does it as a hobby so there's a waitlist a year out for the kit but for the price it's hard to beat without breaking CARB laws in California. He's also constantly working on improving them and does have a new setup in the works.
The most current development for the ESC is a controller that removes the switch and makes it so the boost is evenly spread out across the RPM range. You can modify the map too, which might be fun.
Yeah you bring up a lot of points that I had in mind when I first read about it too. A lot of them have been ironed out over the course of the past couple of years though.
I helped my friend install it when he got his in and it does work pretty well. The near instant delivery puts your head back in the seat kind of like the Tesla's insane mode will, but of course not as much.
The longevity of the parts is kind of an issue, but the nice part with this setup is that the starter battery is independent of the dump batteries, so you don't have to worry about them draining your starter. The current is definitely a concern but unless someone is messing around in the engine bay while I'm running the car at WOT there shouldn't be any hazard. I did get warning labels for the kit though.
So far in the two years of it being on the market no one has lost an alternator yet, and the batteries are rather inexpensive.
The 90 seconds recharges in about a minute, so you can really keep it going. It's mostly used for straights or making passing attempts as you get rid of the torque dip while doing so.
However there's now a controller for it that delivers the boost linearly, which is what I plan to be using. Basically with the new controller it'll be like having a 2.4l engine instead of the stock 2.0l unless I'm constantly at WOT.
With the old system though, it was basically like having a rechargeable NOS setup. Instant power on demand but you do have to pace yourself when using it.
Well I also did the math on that. For a CARB legal tuned SC setup (around 6K out the door) I could hit around 250 whp. If I go for the JRSC or Vortech it's the same cost and performance due to CARB, and I won't get to push those SCs to the limit like I will with the ESC.
If I go with the Works Stage 2 Turbo it'd be around a grand less, but with a lot of labor going into it either by myself or by someone else. The ESC is about an hour to install, and even less time to remove it in case it needs repairs or I'm taking the car in for maintenance.
I also won't be paying for tunes with any of these kits, though. Living in California I'm stuck to off the shelf tunes no matter what I end up with, which are included in each kit. I can tune the boost controller on the ESC a bit to suit my driving style though.
TL;DR: My body is telling me a full on SC is what I should get, but my mind is telling me to save half the cost with this kit as it's what will fix the only issue I have with the car at the moment. If in a few years I really want more power, I'll have enough to sell this kit and get a Jackson Racing or Vortech setup.
Hawk pads are the business. I'd say a BBK of any kind will be your best upgrade, regardless of the drilled / slotted nature of the rotors. The pads and lines seem to be the biggest deciding factor I've heard.
With the FR-S mine came with the TRD pads and despite the noise they hold up really well to the point where I don't feel the need to upgrade until the rotors are too worn to use.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
If you want to save a few bucks and your current rotors are okay just go with the lines and pads, that will be plenty for you. Just make sure to use a higher temp brake fluid like a Motul 600.
Ya I agree, but I'd even say just go with pads and brake fluid. Braided lines really only make your pedal feel a bit stiffer. Which can slightly decrease stopping distance, but maybe by a foot or so. Usually steel braided lines are installed to fight against wear and tear that rubber lines give more than increase performance. But pads and brake fluid can help a lot. Though it'll make the daily driving worse as braking will be far more aggressive.
Motul 600 is great, Endless RF650 is amazing and is used by F1 actually. Endless just sucks at marketing apparently.
I'd say for AutoX I'd be focused on suspension and tires (which will bump you up in class if you change). Brakes on AutoX aren't as useful due to the low speeds and short distances compared to a track. For Track I'd be all about pads and tires first.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
It sounds like it's a pretty good product, but on this note I still want to say that it will be useless on a track past a two or three laps, which will be frustrating if you do track it. Just imagine lining up for a hot lap and wait, where did the power go?
I'm still intrigued by it. It's pretty cool that they got it working as well as they do, and some of those torque curves look pretty hilarious from the full 5psi boost off idle.
Aw but the braided lines look so cool.
I enjoy the stiffer pedal that results from using them, for sure, and it's nice having the added protection from debris that might get kicked up tailing someone at speed--especially if you have brake ducts. The 944 with braided lines and hawk pads is a hoot, I just look at the pedal funny and the car stops.
The pain in the ass with good braking fluid is that it's very difficult to find locally.
Edit: Holy shit that Endless RF650 is expensive!
LucidMomentum
Member
Oh for sure. If this was my track car or I was more into Auto X I'd probably just save up for a full setup. But I mostly DD and find myself lacking power to come out of corners or to pass people on the highways due to the torque dip and this will come in handy for those times.
I also think with the controller to keep the delivery linear and to manage the voltage more efficiently it'll be much nicer to use for things like canyon runs and back roads driving which is what I spend most of my "fun" drive time doing. It seems to hit a sweet spot that works well for me, but we'll see if that rings true once I get to have one for an extended period of time.
mmazurkiewicz
Member
Yeh I got Endless pads and fluid for my first track event...
Think it was $370 for front pads, $370 for rear, and like $80 for a liter of RF650.
Brakes didn't fail me. LOL. Its just expensive cause its Japanese.
Now to choose the best R Compound tire for my next track day. Gonna go Trofeo R or RF71R. Likely RF71R as the Trofeo is crazy expensive at half the tread wear, and since I'm not racing, the grip to cost ratio favors the RF71R.
Think it was $370 for front pads, $370 for rear, and like $80 for a liter of RF650.
Brakes didn't fail me. LOL. Its just expensive cause its Japanese.
Now to choose the best R Compound tire for my next track day. Gonna go Trofeo R or RF71R. Likely RF71R as the Trofeo is crazy expensive at half the tread wear, and since I'm not racing, the grip to cost ratio favors the RF71R.
You have an F80 M3, right? Does it have proper ducting to provide cool air for the brakes from the factory or is that something you have to mod? Only reason I mention it because R comps are going to make them work extra hard. Some cars have a cut out in the wheel wells you can remove for track days.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
Well cool, go for it! I'm really interested to hear how it works out.
mmazurkiewicz
Member
Yes there is ducting there from the factory.
One thing I don't like about the MX72 pads I bought is that I read that they'll lead to a drastic reduction in brake dust. I thought, hmm, great pads for the track and reduced brake dust on the streets. Brake dust is the same if not worst, however.
Gonna be swapping back to the OEM pads for the fall and winter and save these MX72s for next years track days.
jongkookie
Member
Good god, y'all are right... I tried reading up on brakes and gave up since every thread evolves into some version of people incessantly arguing about warping rotors... hell the Miata forum even had published white papers from researchers, SAE and all over the world. I don't have time to read that shit lol... I just wanna know which brakes I should get. ;__;
I'm pretty sure my rotors are not "okay". Not that there's anything wrong with them, but in the last 3 years I've had the car I've never changed the rotors nor the brakes, and I don't think the PO changed/refinished the rotors either, maybe just the pads. And at 80k miles... I'm pretty sure my rotors are gonna need to be refinished at the very least when I swap my pads.
As an estimate... it's about $160 for a full set of Centric blank rotors, $150 for the set of Stoptech stainless steel brake lines and $120 for a set of their "street performance pads" totaling out to $430, which is actually not that bad. I might actually end up going this route unless AutoAnything still has the sale at the end of September for the Stoptech slotted brake kit, it's $435 for the rotors, pads and lines... it's a damn good price plus my Miata will look a little cooler with the slotted rotors lol.
And yeah, I'll definitely grab some Motul 600... used to be it was almost impossible to find some Motul here in DFW but Cobb, Track Dog Racing, and a few other specialized shops started stocking them due to demand. It's still not widely used of course, but if you know about Motul, then you know haha.
I'm pretty sure my rotors are not "okay". Not that there's anything wrong with them, but in the last 3 years I've had the car I've never changed the rotors nor the brakes, and I don't think the PO changed/refinished the rotors either, maybe just the pads. And at 80k miles... I'm pretty sure my rotors are gonna need to be refinished at the very least when I swap my pads.
As an estimate... it's about $160 for a full set of Centric blank rotors, $150 for the set of Stoptech stainless steel brake lines and $120 for a set of their "street performance pads" totaling out to $430, which is actually not that bad. I might actually end up going this route unless AutoAnything still has the sale at the end of September for the Stoptech slotted brake kit, it's $435 for the rotors, pads and lines... it's a damn good price plus my Miata will look a little cooler with the slotted rotors lol.
And yeah, I'll definitely grab some Motul 600... used to be it was almost impossible to find some Motul here in DFW but Cobb, Track Dog Racing, and a few other specialized shops started stocking them due to demand. It's still not widely used of course, but if you know about Motul, then you know haha.
Correct me if I'm wrong but your first track day was just a few weeks ago right? If that's the case I would recommend that you don't move up to slicks just yet.
Why not? Well slicks don't really squeal when they are at their limit and they don't lose grip linearly like street tires. R Compounds limits are a lot more subtle than Street tires. Some people call this a "snap back effect" where you think you're at still not at the limit and then suddenly you've lost it and you're spinning around. They think it's the fault of the tire, but really it's driver error because they aren't reading their R Compounds correctly as they are pushing it. Also there's way less tread on R Compounds and they need at least 1 lap if not more to warm up to be useful. A lot of people want that "insane" grip of dedicated slicks, but it might be better to invest in some dedicated performance tires until you're really in the groove of tracking your car.
But if you're not new to this, then please disregard everything I said, I'm no expert.
mmazurkiewicz
Member
Oh I'm very new to this and honestly just classified some things incorrectly I believe.
I classified those two as R Compounds but they're not. I was under the impression that R Compounds were street legal track tires, a separate class from slicks, but it seems they're all grouped together.
I know the RF71R is an extreme performance summer and not a R Compound, and the Trofeo R is street legal, but how its classified, I don't know.
I don't want slicks as I need to get to the track and back. And as you mention, I'm far too new to this to run slicks.
I classified those two as R Compounds but they're not. I was under the impression that R Compounds were street legal track tires, a separate class from slicks, but it seems they're all grouped together.
I know the RF71R is an extreme performance summer and not a R Compound, and the Trofeo R is street legal, but how its classified, I don't know.
I don't want slicks as I need to get to the track and back. And as you mention, I'm far too new to this to run slicks.
Get some Hankook RS3's, Direzza Star Specs II, or something along those lines. Great track tires that won't get greasy quick and will provide the progressive grip and feedback you're looking for. You are going to have a way harder time on slicks.
rokkerkory
Member
I would recommend hankook TDs, they are DOT legal but really a race tire
http://www.hankooktire.com/global/competition-cars-tires/hankook-ventus-td-z221.html
Friend bettered his track time by almost 5 secs switching to this tire over the weekend.
Mattlikewhoa
Member
I'm lucky to have a shop in my city that carries all of Motul's products. I just had my oil, tranny, and rear diff oils changed to Motul just last week.
nabe_shogun
Member
I second the RS3's. Those became my tire of choice for the track. They were also fairly cheap for how good they were.
Having just test driven pretty much all the cars in this discussion with my Dad a couple of weeks ago I can say that the BMW's transmission made a huge difference versus the C-Class. Even though the interior is nicer and more luxurious on the Merc the BMW just drives better and much of that is due to the ZF 8 speed AT. It is a phenomenal transmission for an automatic. In comparison the Merc felt heavy, slow and less responsive as it didn't always pick the best gear or had a delay before it downshifted to accelerate. This is one area where MB needs some work.
Fox body Mustangs are great. I had an early 90's LX 5.0 coupe that I still consider to be one of the best cars that I have ever owned. With the mod community and plethora of parts and support you would be in good company.
rokkerkory
Member
http://www.motorauthority.com/news/...fted-ferrari-in-order-to-upgrade-to-new-model
I would like to slap the crap out of this 20 yr old kid. He has 14 other cars and decides to do this because a regular 458 isn't good enough.
WTH?
I would like to slap the crap out of this 20 yr old kid. He has 14 other cars and decides to do this because a regular 458 isn't good enough.
WTH?
Amazing.