You should look at other transporting companies. $1,600 to bring the car from SoCal to NorCal is ridiculous. I paid about that much to get my Cayman shipped from Chicago to SoCal, completely enclosed.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86
- Thread starter AlphaSnake
- Start date
You should look at other transporting companies. $1,600 to bring the car from SoCal to NorCal is ridiculous. I paid about that much to get my Cayman shipped from Chicago to SoCal, completely enclosed.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
That's nuts. I paid $1,800 to ship two cars on an enclosed trailer from Texas to Michigan.
Edit: It's worth noting, though, that prices can vary wildly on shipping due to factors you'd never think of. The auto transporters are basically agents posting jobs on driver boards, so your price can be dependent on who happens to be there, where they're going and how many cars they'll have on their truck. I paid an extra $400 a few years ago taking a car from Ohio to Texas because it was right during hurricane Sandy and all the drivers were in NY moving flooded cars.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
HOLY SHITx2000
I saw a Volcano Red McLaren P1. What a fucking color!
That's the second one in my area. I was as giddy as a school girl when I saw it driving towards me. I suspect it's the same owner as the 675LT, since most of those were sold to P1 owners.
I saw a Volcano Red McLaren P1. What a fucking color!
That's the second one in my area. I was as giddy as a school girl when I saw it driving towards me. I suspect it's the same owner as the 675LT, since most of those were sold to P1 owners.
shinshoryuken
Member
It's about 500 mile distance, not too long but not to short.
I'm getting more quotes and there around $850.
and it will take up to a week to deliver.
or
it's a 6 hour drive. 2 plane ticker, slimJims & Gatorade and 3 tank of gas...
djSyndrome
Member
I drive from Seattle to Sacramento in one shot at least twice a year. SoCal to NorCal is easy mode. Do it, and be sure to take the coast and enjoy the scenery.
My car is going to get me into trouble someday. So it has this "adaptive automatic transmission" that learns the way how you drive in eco and sport modes. I tend to drive hard in both, so the car has learned to stay in gear until 4.5x rpm lol...
Today I was driving in the downtown with the windows down and I learned how loud it actually revs when downshifting. I'm pretty sure the girl who was crossing the street thought I intentionally revved at her when she looked back.
Damn man you seem to see beasts every other day. The only P1 I saw was one in some metallic yellow
Today I was driving in the downtown with the windows down and I learned how loud it actually revs when downshifting. I'm pretty sure the girl who was crossing the street thought I intentionally revved at her when she looked back.
Damn man you seem to see beasts every other day. The only P1 I saw was one in some metallic yellow
lol, I had something very similar happen to me. I usually drive my car in manual with Sport mode, and use the paddles. Then, when I see some cops or something, I turn off Sport mode and hit the stick back to auto so it will close the exhaust valves and upshift to make the car quite.
Well this one time, I accidentally hit the Sport Plus button instead of toggling off Sport, then put the PDK in auto mode. For those not familiar with these cars, Sport Plus is supposed to be used for track as it's the most aggressive algorithm that puts the exhaust in it's loudest setting and will hold gears until the 8K RPM redline. So right as I'm passing this cop, my car downshifts to first gear and lets out exhaust overrun pops and burbles like the 4th of July. He just stared at me and had this expression on his face like "WTF is this guy doing?" lol
Hahaha oh man. That would have killed me. I haven't gotten a ticket yet, so a mistake like that with my luck would have changed that lol
Lol that's hilarious. Good story.
Hey car GAF. I have a small issue (maybe not issue?) with my 2014 grand cherokee. It has the factory HID headlights. I noticed today that there is a mark on the inside of the headlights that looks like a circle exactly where the bulbs shine through.
Is this normal? or something to worry about? These are the stock headlights that came on the vehicle. Approx 15k miles.
Below is a photo of what I am talking about.
Is this normal? or something to worry about? These are the stock headlights that came on the vehicle. Approx 15k miles.
Below is a photo of what I am talking about.
whatsinaname
Member
Drove a Malibu my friend rented this weekend. The start-stop system in it is horrible...
In my (very limited) experience, a car has to be at the very least a mild hybrid in order for start-stop to not suck. Kind of just learn to not press the brake pedal in all the way so it doesn't shut off.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
Google says your headlights are vented because the HIDs put out a lot of heat. There's a TSB on it that says dealers should only replace the assemblies if the condensation doesn't go away when the headlights are turned on for about 15 minutes.
Keep an eye on it. If it's constant, take it in to a dealer, if it only happens every so often and goes away after driving, you're fine.
Nah its there pretty much the whole time (I noticed it today around 2PM.) I guess I'll mention it to the dealer next oil change.
Thanks!
Actually, I looked up the TSB. It doesn't look like whats happening to mine? Mine it doesn't seem like in the TSB. There's no water inside the headlight, just the circular marks on the inside.
http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0808613.pdf
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I would imagine it's regular condensation where that part of the lens housing is warmer than what's around it (because of the heat of the xenon bulb). The rain and humidity are likely the cause of it. You should check it once it's dry.
jongkookie
Member
Fishtailed like a little bitch today lol.
Cold rain, probably oily roads since it's been a month since it rained here, no TCS and more importantly, worn tires.
I was stuck behind an Altima, while switching lanes to the left, I dropped the gear to 2nd(from 3rd) then I just saw the rev gauge go up. My initial thought was that I fried my tranny on that spot, but as I was trying to straighten out my car, the rear instantly just slipped and cue me trying to countersteer.
I eased off the gas, jammed the wheel to the right then switched it to the left, where it started to gain traction then back on the right.
Whew... thanks Gran Turismo?
I actually almost had a code brown since I had a passenger with me. But the weird thing was, my trunk was packed since we bought almost all of Costco, then stopped by the Asian market and bought more shit so the trunk is technically heavy. On the other hand, my tires, while worn, aren't that bad in the dry. It's still very very controllable in those situations so for that to happen today was kind of a surprise.
Either way, looks like I'm about to buy new tires and probably some new springs since I'm getting really tired of the rough riding characteristics of my current setup.
Cold rain, probably oily roads since it's been a month since it rained here, no TCS and more importantly, worn tires.
I was stuck behind an Altima, while switching lanes to the left, I dropped the gear to 2nd(from 3rd) then I just saw the rev gauge go up. My initial thought was that I fried my tranny on that spot, but as I was trying to straighten out my car, the rear instantly just slipped and cue me trying to countersteer.
I eased off the gas, jammed the wheel to the right then switched it to the left, where it started to gain traction then back on the right.
Whew... thanks Gran Turismo?
I actually almost had a code brown since I had a passenger with me. But the weird thing was, my trunk was packed since we bought almost all of Costco, then stopped by the Asian market and bought more shit so the trunk is technically heavy. On the other hand, my tires, while worn, aren't that bad in the dry. It's still very very controllable in those situations so for that to happen today was kind of a surprise.
Either way, looks like I'm about to buy new tires and probably some new springs since I'm getting really tired of the rough riding characteristics of my current setup.
Fallout-NL
Member
So this showed up to Cars & Coffee this week. 1963 Ferrari Superamerica. #15 of 18 built. Valued around $5 million.
Have to respect the fact it's actually out on the road. Beautiful car.
Haha.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
These moments are a blast when you're out having some fun, but when your otherwise normal drive is interrupted with a loss of control? Oh yeah, total code brown. That little kick of adrenaline is so out of place on a drive across town.
Careful with easing off the throttle when you get like that, though. I don't know how familiar you are with it, but if your tires are spinning due to throttle application they may hook back up very quickly if you let off the throttle, and if you're pointed off center and countersteering when they hook back up you're going to get a real tank-slapper or just lose it entirely. If the tires spin up, stay in the throttle and sloooowly start easing off until you've got the nose pointed where you want it with the steering wheel pointed the same way.
Almost every video of someone hitting the curb at cars and coffee events is because of this. They go a little sideways on acceleration, lift off the throttle, car hooks up facing the wrong way, fish-tail, crash.
If you're already solid with that, ignore this, but it's a nice reminder because nobody ever teaches slide recovery past "point the wheel into the direction of the slide," which is only about a quarter of what you need to know.
Yeah, my G37 did this to me one time before I replaced the tires. I was going up a hill that was wet from fresh rain and the car downshifted and just lost traction and started spinning. The rear of the car slid into the oncoming traffic lane while me in the front was still sort of pointed up the hill in the correct lane. It was instant panic.
I did the right thing though and just eased off the gas and tried to keep the car pointed up the hill in the correct lane. Once I had eased off the gas enough the car hooked back up and I was able to straighten it out and get all of the car back in the lane. It was definitely a good thing that no one was coming down the hill in the opposite direction at the time.
Needless to say I replaced the tires about 2 weeks later.
It feels much better suited to a manual. You put it in neutral and drop the clutch to turn the engine off or keep the clutch depressed to keep the engine running so you still have good control over it.
We have a day of ice driving (or oil on metal in the summer) training for the licence here, but I agree that it would be really valuable to get more. The one thing it did teach me was how much steering you lose when braking hard, even with ABS.
There's a course like that near I live and I wish there had been open days where you could take your vehicle and safely find the limits and how it reacts when it reaches them. Even with stability control, that system has a tendency (in my experience) to be very abrupt and the surprise can catch you off guard if it's the first time you feel it.
djSyndrome
Member
Won't this trash your throwout bearing?
jongkookie
Member
I wouldn't say I'm solid with it, so it's definitely a good reminder.
All I really know about slide recovery is this:
1. NEVER let off the gas, instead ease off the pedal but never to the point where there's basically no input. In other words, if you can and know, match the engine's RPM to the wheel speed. Though this is much more difficult than it sounds because you're basically in a state of panic.
2. Point to the direction of the slide.
3. Enjoy opposite lock while trying to find grip.
4. Find grip.
5. ???
6. Assess underpants situation.
7. Profit!
I honestly have never needed more than that since my Miata tends to be more grippy. The rear end will slide but it's still very controllable. But I do think it's a disadvantage since I don't really know how to properly get out of a slippery situation.
This is good advice. I actually had this happen to me a few weeks ago. We had some ice and I had bald tires. I was in my neighborhood coming home from work when I lost control after giving a bit of gas making a turn. Since there was oncoming traffic, I couldn't just slide, I had to recover, so I pulled off the throttle and turned the wheel... wheels hooked back up for a second and threw my left wheels into (and over) a curb.
Luckily my car is fine after an alignment, and I replaced my tires with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3's, which I like a lot more than the stock WRX tires. That adrenaline though... I felt sick afterwards.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Not if the engine shuts off no.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
So after seeing a McLaren 675LT, a P1 back to back...oh hallo there, here is 1 of 43 Super Sports yesterday (to the immediate left of me is Shaq's house). This car turned right.
In this example, with the clutch depressed and the transmission in gear, the engine doesn't shut off. The auto start/stop only kicks in when you are in neutral. I could see that working.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
The bolded above was driven into me by teachers at the competition licensing program I did who were very frustrated with the lack of education on that part. It's kind of nuts how it's not taught. That little piece of info (and the practice of it on track) has let me push my cars way harder on track and recover from pretty nasty slides. Here's one along with the resultant adrenaline yelp-laughter after: https://youtu.be/9jsvF31NMTw?t=894 (about 15m in). This was also my first time on R-comps and the rear suspension bushings were binding badly so the car was criminally loose.
There are places that will do training on cars with skid cars that is just invaluable training. I did it at mid-ohio a few years back and just a brief time in the skid car was all it took to click in my head.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eDC7S4fSYE (not my video)
Edit: Man, I really need to get better at trail braking, namely when not to use it.
I believe due to how the EPA rates cars, if you could turn start/stop off and it would stay off the next time you drive, then the EPA would rate the car with it off. As a result, most manufacturers are going to make you push that button every time.
Do people not haggle for (used) cars anymore? Was getting some weird looks from various buyers at the dealership I was just at. I was being aggressive since, well, it's my money on the line. Wasn't being rude or loud, just trying to get the best deal possible. But yeah, some people giving me strange looks like I should just take the list price or not be shopping for a car.
Yeah, it's nice to see people drive these rare cars instead of just locking them in a collection. Still crazy to think that old car is worth more than the MSRP of a LaFerrari, P1, and 918 Spyder put together.
You must live in a pretty baller neighborhood. That's in Florida, right? My brother is thinking about buying a place there just because the taxes are so much better than California.
My car(2015) has the auto start/stop disabled on startup. It's also the same on the 2016 GT4, so I don't think it's a regulation thing. If it is, I guess Porsche would rather not inconvenience it's customers by having to press it every time, as they probably aren't buying the car for fuel economy.
I've noticed most young people these days are terrible at negotiating. It's not a skill that is widely taught. Might also be symptom of just ordering everything online with one click. They like things advertised as "Haggle Free" even if it's not the best deal they can get just because they don't want to actually deal with talking to someone about what they really want or be seen as argumentative.
I'm one of those young people but fuck it - It's my bank account, it's my money, it's potentially my car. I understand that dealerships are there to make money, but I'm more concerned with my wallet than the dealership's or doing things the easy way.
Also god damn do people not pay attention to price if the dealership can get them the monthly payments they want. In fact I really need to rant about this right now as I almost fell victim to it.
I was looking at a used 2015 Mazda 3 iGT listed on this dealership's website for ~$18k. Test drove it, enjoyed it, wanted to discuss buying it. Right off the bat there were ~$1700 of extras that were supposedly required but not part of the list price. We were able to negotiate those off, so sitting at just the list price of $18k. We then looked at financing and monthly payments since that price was (decently) agreeable. Negotiations and haggling didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped and I was generally uncomfortable about something during the process so we left the dealership with no deal.
Then I got home and did the math and frankly - I'm absolutely pissed. My rough napkin math puts that agreed price at around ~$20k after tax and title. I was planning on putting down a down payment of ~$7000. At supposedly somewhere between 0-4% interest rate, they were quoting me a loan of $300 a month (relatively agreeable imo)... over 60 months. Again maybe my napkin math here is rusty... but that equals out to $18k. And again my down payment was going to be $7000.
TL
R - They were trying to peddle me a car we potentially agreed at $18k before tax and title - for $25k after tax and title. Tax and title will add a couple grand sure, but not a $7000 difference. So either they were lying through their teeth about that interest rate, or they were trying to tack on several thousand extra dollars hoping I wouldn't notice and I'm wagering it's the latter.djSyndrome
Member
TL
Four square is for chumps. I negotiate the price first, then ask for the interest rate they can give me and work backwards from there. If the numbers don't line up it's an instant walk.
Never enter a dealership without a (good) auto loan calculator handy.
Here's a weird question. We're about to buy a 2016 Outback with a HomeLink mirror, and I'd like to know if the HomeLink function works when the ignition is off. The car will be parked in our driveway at times, and I'd rather someone not have access to the garage if they smash the window of the car. Anyone with a recent Subaru w/ HomeLink able to confirm the behavior either way?
The question was to his post of leaving the clutch in to avoid the shutoff.
All this talk of oversteer correction makes me respect the likes of Chris Harris even more. He makes it seem so effortless.
Also reminds me of the time I was showing off to a friend in my newly modified Evo 9 back in the day. Went too hot into a highway exit ramp while the roads were still wet, lifted the throttle which made the back come around. Had to go full opposite lock and mash the gas again to drift out it while looking out my side window.
Some PGR3 instincts must have taken over. If I hadn't fixed it we would have rolled into the grass for sure. My friend was as pale as a ghost afterwards, but I just played it cool and pretended I was in control the whole time. lol.
Also reminds me of the time I was showing off to a friend in my newly modified Evo 9 back in the day. Went too hot into a highway exit ramp while the roads were still wet, lifted the throttle which made the back come around. Had to go full opposite lock and mash the gas again to drift out it while looking out my side window.
Some PGR3 instincts must have taken over. If I hadn't fixed it we would have rolled into the grass for sure. My friend was as pale as a ghost afterwards, but I just played it cool and pretended I was in control the whole time. lol.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Yeah. I love this neighborhood. It's in Central Florida.
Sorry to interruptt the supercar talk with my peasant post. We are going to get a used family car soon (germany). Up to 10.000 €, max 100.000 km (60k miles), not older than 2005, HP between at least 100 - 150 (to not crawl when under full vacation load). We can afford a more expensive car but we want to buy one "cash" without financing / credit loan.
Going on a 1 month trip to Scandinavia later this year and instead of renting one we said "fuck it".
So far good candidates with most offerings around here are (all station wagon):
Hope GF can mobilize a friend of a friend who is a car mechanic because we have no clue about nothing and would eat up everything the tell us.
VW Passat is the most likely atm. Any other models i should look out for? Maybe Mazda 6 but i don't really like the look. Is Ford Mondeo good?
Going on a 1 month trip to Scandinavia later this year and instead of renting one we said "fuck it".
So far good candidates with most offerings around here are (all station wagon):
- VW Passat Variant (a lot of good offers around here)
- VW Golf Variant
- Toyota Avensis
- Skoda Octavia (don't really like the pre 2013 models)
- Volvo V50
Hope GF can mobilize a friend of a friend who is a car mechanic because we have no clue about nothing and would eat up everything the tell us.
VW Passat is the most likely atm. Any other models i should look out for? Maybe Mazda 6 but i don't really like the look. Is Ford Mondeo good?
Yeah, I didn't really do the math at the dealership, but something just felt really off the whole time and we ended up walking. Again, I'm still pissed now and wished I had noticed at the time so I could have thrown it in their face. With my napkin math again.... in a best case scenario that they were using my third party financing pre-approved interest rate of 5.7% - that still leaves an extra $3417 that I'd be paying for out of nowhere for some reason. What a bunch of fucking slimeballs.
I always haggle but I'm also a very well informed and well spoken shopper. I do my homework, lots of it, and then make sure the sales person knows that right up front. It also helps that I've bought a lot of cars from dealerships in my 20+ years of driving (averaging about one purchase every 2 years) so I've seen and played the whole song and dance to the point that I often know what the pitch is going to be as soon as the sales person opens their mouth.
If you lead with "Here's the car I am interested in and here is my pre-approved interest rate, get me the best price you can on the car and then we'll talk" then it generally lets the salesperson know not to try and sale you on a higher interest rate loan. In my experience the dealer will also often try to beat your pre-approved rate just so they can make the finance money on it, which is win-win for you.
I'm one of those young people but fuck it - It's my bank account, it's my money, it's potentially my car. I understand that dealerships are there to make money, but I'm more concerned with my wallet than the dealership's or doing things the easy way.
Also god damn do people not pay attention to price if the dealership can get them the monthly payments they want. In fact I really need to rant about this right now as I almost fell victim to it.
I was looking at a used 2015 Mazda 3 iGT listed on this dealership's website for ~$18k. Test drove it, enjoyed it, wanted to discuss buying it. Right off the bat there were ~$1700 of extras that were supposedly required but not part of the list price. We were able to negotiate those off, so sitting at just the list price of $18k. We then looked at financing and monthly payments since that price was (decently) agreeable. Negotiations and haggling didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped and I was generally uncomfortable about something during the process so we left the dealership with no deal.
Then I got home and did the math and frankly - I'm absolutely pissed. My rough napkin math puts that agreed price at around ~$20k after tax and title. I was planning on putting down a down payment of ~$7000. At supposedly somewhere between 0-4% interest rate, they were quoting me a loan of $300 a month (relatively agreeable imo)... over 60 months. Again maybe my napkin math here is rusty... but that equals out to $18k. And again my down payment was going to be $7000.
TL
Their were probably paperwork fees, dealer fees or other such non-sense built into the quote. The best thing you can do is to look at the entire document that lists all of the charges (they legally have to show it to you and have you sign it) and then at that point you can easily contest them and walk out depending on what you see. You do have to pay tax, you do have to pay registration and some states (like Virginia, for instance although theirs is only $100) do require a certain dealer fee per transaction but beyond that don't give any more "gravy" to the dealership than you are legally required to do so.
I know the experience left a bad taste in your mouth but it sounds like you did the right thing. You weren't comfortable, you didn't like what you saw so you didn't cave in and you walked. Good call. You definitely learned some things and you can use that next time. It's all a learning experience.
Fallout-NL
Member
Skoda might not be such a bad idea if you're not hung op on badges. I imagine, for the budget, you can get a much cleaner Octavia than you would a Passat.
Yeah, it's just the looks of some older models. I really like the look of the "new" Octavia / Superb and i think Skoda went through a really good development in the last 10 years.
The Octavia RS is one of the best "bang for buck" sporty station wagons in germany (that's why ppl have to wait 6 - 12 month for them to ship) and on the top of my list of affordable mid level wagons when i would get a job public service (besides Seat Leon ST Cupra, Golf Variant RS).
In the end, i would take funtionality / quality over looks since this this is just a car for the next 5 - 10 years.
Fallout-NL
Member
Yeah, both the Superb and the new Octavia are great looking cars imho.
I'm one of those young people but fuck it - It's my bank account, it's my money, it's potentially my car. I understand that dealerships are there to make money, but I'm more concerned with my wallet than the dealership's or doing things the easy way.
Also god damn do people not pay attention to price if the dealership can get them the monthly payments they want. In fact I really need to rant about this right now as I almost fell victim to it.
[..]
Then I got home and did the math and frankly - I'm absolutely pissed. My rough napkin math puts that agreed price at around ~$20k after tax and title. I was planning on putting down a down payment of ~$7000. At supposedly somewhere between 0-4% interest rate, they were quoting me a loan of $300 a month (relatively agreeable imo)... over 60 months. Again maybe my napkin math here is rusty... but that equals out to $18k. And again my down payment was going to be $7000.
TL
This is a question i pretty much asked already, but how do you negotiate a deal when a car is priced at or near the lowest on the market? Wouldn't the dealer balk at reducing their price below the rest of the market?
I'm looking at a particular used car but they almost all cluster at about $25k-$25.5k with about 30-50k kilometers and literally none are less than that.
m_shortpants
Member
Still on the hunt for a NB miata for the weekend
Thought I'd be tripping over them on Craigslist...
Thought I'd be tripping over them on Craigslist...
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Somebody drove the Infiniti RS400 and recorded a video of it doing 0-100. A few things: it has 4 passengers in it, totaling an extra 600lbs. It's also the AWD model, adding another 200lbs in weight. Despite that, the car gets to 60MPH in about ~4.5-4.8 seconds. And hits 100MPH in around 10-10.5 seconds with all that weight.
I can't even imagine what a RWD model with no passenger will feel like accelerating. Must be easily a second quicker to 100MPH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VgyVJQJRcM
Also, I really like the sporty higher-pitched sound. With an exhaust this thing sounds like it's going to hooowl.
As a frame of reference, a BMW 340i RWD with no passengers will reach 100MPH in about 11 seconds. And an M4 will do it in 9 seconds. It seems to be that the Infiniti Q50 Red Sport 400 is closer in spec to an M4 than a 340i...and I'm pretty damn impressed. Really looking forward to what the tuners will start doing to them too. I have my UpRev cable ready to go.
I can't even imagine what a RWD model with no passenger will feel like accelerating. Must be easily a second quicker to 100MPH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VgyVJQJRcM
Also, I really like the sporty higher-pitched sound. With an exhaust this thing sounds like it's going to hooowl.
As a frame of reference, a BMW 340i RWD with no passengers will reach 100MPH in about 11 seconds. And an M4 will do it in 9 seconds. It seems to be that the Infiniti Q50 Red Sport 400 is closer in spec to an M4 than a 340i...and I'm pretty damn impressed. Really looking forward to what the tuners will start doing to them too. I have my UpRev cable ready to go.
Fallout-NL
Member
Great, I must've spent a full hour clicking on related videos since watching your link.
In terms of BHP (400bhp), it actually is closer to an M4 (424bhp) than a 340i (326bhp). Still impressive though. What is the expected price of this thing?
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Yes, I know that
That's why I said it was a frame of reference.
The RS400 should start somewhere in the midish-40s. Standard 3.0t will be high 30s.
too good to be trueYes, I know that
That's why I said it was a frame of reference.
The RS400 should start somewhere in the midish-40s. Standard 3.0t will be high 30s.