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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

matmanx1

Member
Maxda RX-9 guys!

Not releasing until 2020, but specs look good.

Under 1300kg, over 400HP from a turbocharged 1.6L rotary. Probably $65K nicely specced.

2020-Mazda-RX9-render.jpg


2020-Mazda-RX9-render-side.jpg


2020-Mazda-RX9-render-rear.jpg


Source: http://www.motoring.com.au/mazda-rx-9-locked-in-103563



NSX is gorgeous. I don't know if I posted it here, but I almost bought a white on red supercharged one with full OEM Type R conversion 2 years ago.



Fuck SLI. Never again. I'll pay premium to have the latest Titan.

RX-9 hype is legit but that render is just bad. As soon as I saw it I went "why is Mazda copying the AMG GT-S?" Fortunately, it won't look like that so crisis averted!
 
Explain/link? I'm curious as my best pal has one.

Urea Injection systems and Diesel Particulate filters.

Urea tanks need to be replaced and its about 2000 bucks to do it.

The Filters go bad if you never go on long drives and only city drive it.

Just stay far away from them.
 
RX7's are a sore subject for me though, there's several very nice RX7's of various revisions within 5km of where I used to live in Japan that have just been abandoned and have been sat in the same spot for several years now, seemingly nothing wrong with them beyond the owners just giving up on maintanence costs.

This one was probably in the worst shape of them all, sat so long the tyres had cracked, but this one dissapeared early this year and was replaced with a volvo.

Then there's this MK2 RX7a bit further afield, looks saveable but the house looks like it hasnt been inhabited for years.

Also know where theres a white MK1 rx7 sat under a layer of dust in someones garage up a mountain road, no pics/location on that one though because I have plans for it ;)
Another vehicle I see a lot half under a tarp or just sat rotting away are Fairlady Z's.

This one breaks my heart the most though, I've actually spoken to the owner, a guy in his late 70s, refuses to part with it because "he is going to fix it up one day", what's more likely to happen is by the time he kicks the bucket there will be little left beyond some broken panes of glass and a rusty lump. - Breaks my cardinal rule of thumb for restoring things, if you can't dry store it and someone asks if you're willing to sell it so they can restore it, sell it, don't let it get worse!

Yeah, there's no way a guy in his 70's is going to fix that up.

You should buy those abandonded cars and send them my way.
 
RX7's are a sore subject for me though, there's several very nice RX7's of various revisions within 5km of where I used to live in Japan that have just been abandoned and have been sat in the same spot for several years now, seemingly nothing wrong with them beyond the owners just giving up on maintanence costs.

This one was probably in the worst shape of them all, sat so long the tyres had cracked, but this one dissapeared early this year and was replaced with a volvo.

Then there's this MK2 RX7a bit further afield, looks saveable but the house looks like it hasnt been inhabited for years.

Also know where theres a white MK1 rx7 sat under a layer of dust in someones garage up a mountain road, no pics/location on that one though because I have plans for it ;)
Another vehicle I see a lot half under a tarp or just sat rotting away are Fairlady Z's.

This one breaks my heart the most though, I've actually spoken to the owner, a guy in his late 70s, refuses to part with it because "he is going to fix it up one day", what's more likely to happen is by the time he kicks the bucket there will be little left beyond some broken panes of glass and a rusty lump. - Breaks my cardinal rule of thumb for restoring things, if you can't dry store it and someone asks if you're willing to sell it so they can restore it, sell it, don't let it get worse!

I remember going to a performance shop (I won't mention) and was given a tour. While walking around, I noticed what looked to be a R32 under a tarp with some boxes on top...

I asked them what up with it, and they took the tarp off...

... It was one of the record breaking 1/4 drag cars of the 2000's era... just sitting there doing nothing. I know it's less depressing then is being left outside to rot away, but I was told that they haven't started it up since 2007 :(

I don't drink but I feel like I could use one.
 
Tech question... so I might be getting an alignment tomorrow and I say maybe because the guy at NTB I talked to said their machine might not work since my Miata has 4-inches of ground clearance from a flat floor up to the belly pan. Apparently their machine needs at least 8-inches of ground clearance just so they could align it.

Is that even a real thing or was the guy shitting me?
 

No Love

Banned
Tech question... so I might be getting an alignment tomorrow and I say maybe because the guy at NTB I talked to said their machine might not work since my Miata has 4-inches of ground clearance from a flat floor up to the belly pan. Apparently their machine needs at least 8-inches of ground clearance just so they could align it.

Is that even a real thing or was the guy shitting me?


A real alignment nigga can do it with strings.
 

Casimir

Unconfirmed Member
Maxda RX-9 guys!

Not releasing until 2020, but specs look good.

Under 1300kg, over 400HP from a turbocharged 1.6L rotary. Probably $65K nicely specced.

2020-Mazda-RX9-render.jpg



Source: http://www.motoring.com.au/mazda-rx-9-locked-in-103563

Mazda on point!

I'll believe it when I see it. These are just renders by some website. The renders are also clearly photoshopped using an AMG GTS with some bits and bobs from other cars. Including the actual RX Vision Concept:


These are all fan made renders.

...breaking my heart Alpha.
 

Viperbah

Member
Tech question... so I might be getting an alignment tomorrow and I say maybe because the guy at NTB I talked to said their machine might not work since my Miata has 4-inches of ground clearance from a flat floor up to the belly pan. Apparently their machine needs at least 8-inches of ground clearance just so they could align it.

Is that even a real thing or was the guy shitting me?

Eight inches sounds like BS....but their machine might be super old.

Unfortunately for things like alignment, tire replacement, wheel swaps etc. it's better to have a dealership do it. Most of the time their equipment is much better.
 
Part of me actually wishes they can't do it just so I can take it to Texas Track Works or Cobb Tuning and get a precision alignment but I'd be paying $125 for no reason.

It's actually quite dumb tbh.

NTB has a buy 2 get 2 free tires offer but in order to get it, not only do you have to select a tire that's part of the offer, you also have to get the alignment.

All told, I'm looking at about $530 right now. But if I don't use the offer and skip the alignment, I'd be looking at $600 plus another $100 to $150 for an alignment.

I think y'all can do some basic math right? So needless to say, I'm just gonna attempt it lol. If they can align it on their machine, then that's great, but if they can't, it's no bother either as I'd still be saving money.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
This one breaks my heart the most though, I've actually spoken to the owner, a guy in his late 70s, refuses to part with it because "he is going to fix it up one day", what's more likely to happen is by the time he kicks the bucket there will be little left beyond some broken panes of glass and a rusty lump. - Breaks my cardinal rule of thumb for restoring things, if you can't dry store it and someone asks if you're willing to sell it so they can restore it, sell it, don't let it get worse!

Dude, he is trying to teach you karate. That's how they do it.
 
RX-9 looks rather interesting... Too bad the Canadian pricing will be sky high when it's released :(

Tech question... so I might be getting an alignment tomorrow and I say maybe because the guy at NTB I talked to said their machine might not work since my Miata has 4-inches of ground clearance from a flat floor up to the belly pan. Apparently their machine needs at least 8-inches of ground clearance just so they could align it.

Is that even a real thing or was the guy shitting me?

Yeah, though you should be able to find a place that's "low friendly". I've had plenty of spec'd drift cars done. One shop took a look at my car and said "nope, won't even get on the ramp"...

Their setup sound old though...
 
What is the appeal of the rotary in terms of fuel efficiency or power? I just remember my friend's RX7 and RX8 always warm, needing oil and being finicky.

I for one never saw the appeal.

People say it's smaller displacement, but it's crappy mpg.

High revving, but no torque..

less moving parts.. but breaks down more than a piston engine.

apex seal is laughable

It's funny how the FD RX7 is a great car with one main weakness...the engine.

that's why you see FDs with LS swap.

you don't see supras or nsx getting engine swaps...
 
Anyone here ever do a Road Rally where they live? The wife and I just did one around the amazing back roads of Southern Indiana and we loved it. I seriously want to do more because it was just so much fun.

We had about 50 teams with a pretty good mix of cars and the twisty back roads were incredible to drive on. My Mazdaspeed 6 did shockingly well, I was quite impressed with her.



tbyJN2F.jpg

Quick pic of my car right before it started. We did a Fallout/Vault Tec theme.
 

ascii42

Member
I for one never saw the appeal.

People say it's smaller displacement, but it's crappy mpg.

High revving, but no torque..

less moving parts.. but breaks down more than a piston engine.

apex seal is laughable

It's funny how the FD RX7 is a great car with one main weakness...the engine.

that's why you see FDs with LS swap.

you don't see supras or nsx getting engine swaps...
Yeah. People like to say fuel economy of a V8, horsepower of a V6, torque of a 4 cylinder.
 

FStop7

Banned
I for one never saw the appeal.

People say it's smaller displacement, but it's crappy mpg.

High revving, but no torque..

less moving parts.. but breaks down more than a piston engine.

apex seal is laughable

It's funny how the FD RX7 is a great car with one main weakness...the engine.

that's why you see FDs with LS swap.

you don't see supras or nsx getting engine swaps...

A former friend started his company by doing LS1 swaps into FD RX7s. The cars were badass but he would get so much irrational forum hate.

https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
What is the appeal of the rotary in terms of fuel efficiency or power? I just remember my friend's RX7 and RX8 always warm, needing oil and being finicky.

They're unique because they are everything that other engines are not. They rotate. They rev high as fuck. And they make crazy sounds. Plus, extracting 232HP out a 1.3L is pretty cool. They're not reliable only because very little R&D money goes into them. But Mazda has been saying for years they've found solutions.

Turbocharging a rotary would obviously fix all of its torque issues, yet still allow it to rev to around 8000RPM. But you'd probably need some very special turbos work with a rotary, as they'd likely require the ability to constantly take a beating. We have 3.0Ls, 4.0s, 4.4s that are turbocharged and the turbos aren't very stressed, at all because the motors are still making up for a large majority of the power.

But with a new 1.6L rotary potentially making nearly 400HP? Sounds to me like it'll require some heavy duty turbines to take a constant beating. The 1.3L RX8 motor topped out at 232HP, and even that had issues down the line. If they're adding some extra displacement to make it 1.6L, you figure they've probably eeked out roughly 280-300HP N/A. But torque? 170-175lbs at most.

So now you're faced with a challenge: when do the turbos spool? Do they assist down low to get torque immediately, which would then compromise the redline of the motor? Or should they wait at around 2000RPM+, which would allow the car to get close to 8K? Skyactiv tech can help balance torque a bit, but it will still require a lot of trial and error to get the feeling just right. It doesn't seem like this will be a twin-turbo setup, since that'll add a shit load of weight. And Mazda has to tip-toe on the line of heritage. Anything under a fuel-cutoff or redline of 8000, and people will go ape shit.

Imo, go with full boost at 2000+, as the turbo spools below that it'll still provide a lot of extra torque regardless, so you'll feel an abundance of torque building, and it'll feel more linear for a rotary. Otherwise, peak torque arriving too early will feel absolutely wrong in a Wankel motor. It's nice in these modern BMWs and Benzes, but not an RX.
 
So my friend just hit me up to say that there's a closed drift event happening at one of the tracks in my city. A spot opened up, so it looks like I'm heading down with others.

There's going to be a few things I'll need to do before heading out early tomorrow morning. Oil was just changed so I'm good there. I'll need to mount some new tires on the spares, and pack my tool case.
 
What is the appeal of the rotary in terms of fuel efficiency or power? I just remember my friend's RX7 and RX8 always warm, needing oil and being finicky.
Something different is probably the largest reason, they make good power per liter and they rev pretty high. Then you have others who have been around them and have emotional attachments to them, so they'd love to see them make a return.

I for one never saw the appeal.
I asked you last time why you thought the engine is a POS, but you never replied. For the record, I'm not some hardcore rotary engine lover, I just want to spread what I know because there's always been so much misinformation about them.

People say it's smaller displacement, but it's crappy mpg.

High revving, but no torque..
People say it's smaller displacement because of power per liter and weight. No one in the same sentence (or at any time) goes out and says the rotary makes good mpg.

How many high revving engines under 2.6L makes torque? I'm genuinely asking because I don't know, the only other high revving engine I've owned was an S2000.

less moving parts.. but breaks down more than a piston engine.

apex seal is laughable

I hear a lot of wild things about apex seals, but the main cause of failure is detonation. Not because something like the 2mm seals are inadequate, even the 3mm seals will fail due to detonation.

In the case of the FD, when they became more affordable, there were plenty of people buying them, neglecting reliability mods first and foremost and then going full bolt ons or cranking up the boost without any ECU management.
THEN you do get it tuned and it's not by someone who are used to tuning rotaries since shops are so few and far in between and it leans out too much and pops an apex seal anyway.

It's funny how the FD RX7 is a great car with one main weakness...the engine.

that's why you see FDs with LS swap.

you don't see supras or nsx getting engine swaps...

In terms of engine swaps, the FD has gotten a reputation much like the S13. Buy the car and immediately swap out the engine for something else. Why bother to learn anything about what it came with when everyone has already told me to swap it because it's better?

Add it to the fact that people go and buy used ones that are clearly abused, don't take the time to learn how they work and what they need to be maintained and lots of people just end up deciding an engine swap would be easier.

A former friend started his company by doing LS1 swaps into FD RX7s. The cars were badass but he would get so much irrational forum hate.

https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/
What I find hilarious is that the RX7 gets hate no matter what engine it has. People hate it with a rotary because unreliability! People hate it with a V8 because murican motor in my jdm! In the end, just rock what you like. I love LSX motors, I really miss my old C6.

To be fair, I've seen lots of hate for Hinson even on the v8 rx7 forums, mainly due to customer service issues.

The hater are the "purist" who wants you to constantly check the oil, treat it like an exotic, drive it a certain way and so on..

seriously...nothing is impressive about a wankel...

Checking the oil is needed because the rotaries inject a bit of oil into the combustion chamber to help lubricate the apex seals. I see lots of people check their oil on plenty of cars, it's not specific to the rotary. It was well recommended for me to check the oil in my s2k cause the ap1 would burn oil, especially if you hit vtec or used Mobil 1.

Drive like an exotic? It's pretty well recommended to rev the shit out of it whenever you want when you drive to help knock out any carbon deposits that have settled in there. Though nowadays with everyone going with water injection, that's helped a lot in cleaning it out and keeping temps down.
 
I asked you last time why you thought the engine is a POS, but you never replied. For the record, I'm not some hardcore rotary engine lover, I just want to spread what I know because there's always been so much misinformation about them.


People say it's smaller displacement because of power per liter and weight. No one in the same sentence (or at any time) goes out and says the rotary makes good mpg.

How many high revving engines under 2.6L makes torque? I'm genuinely asking because I don't know, the only other high revving engine I've owned was an S2000.



I hear a lot of wild things about apex seals, but the main cause of failure is detonation. Not because something like the 2mm seals are inadequate, even the 3mm seals will fail due to detonation.

In the case of the FD, when they became more affordable, there were plenty of people buying them, neglecting reliability mods first and foremost and then going full bolt ons or cranking up the boost without any ECU management.
THEN you do get it tuned and it's not by someone who are used to tuning rotaries since shops are so few and far in between and it leans out too much and pops an apex seal anyway.



In terms of engine swaps, the FD has gotten a reputation much like the S13. Buy the car and immediately swap out the engine for something else. Why bother to learn anything about what it came with when everyone has already told me to swap it because it's better?

Add it to the fact that people go and buy used ones that are clearly abused, don't take the time to learn how they work and what they need to be maintained and lots of people just end up deciding an engine swap would be easier.


What I find hilarious is that the RX7 gets hate no matter what engine it has. People hate it with a rotary because unreliability! People hate it with a V8 because murican motor in my jdm! In the end, just rock what you like. I love LSX motors, I really miss my old C6.

To be fair, I've seen lots of hate for Hinson even on the v8 rx7 forums, mainly due to customer service issues.



Checking the oil is needed because the rotaries inject a bit of oil into the combustion chamber to help lubricate the apex seals. I see lots of people check their oil on plenty of cars, it's not specific to the rotary. It was well recommended for me to check the oil in my s2k cause the ap1 would burn oil, especially if you hit vtec or used Mobil 1.

Drive like an exotic? It's pretty well recommended to rev the shit out of it whenever you want when you drive to help knock out any carbon deposits that have settled in there. Though nowadays with everyone going with water injection, that's helped a lot in cleaning it out and keeping temps down.


Didn't know you asked me...

But yeah..back in the days I was surrounded by rotary lovers and always had a heated discussion with them. They always preach that with proper maintenance the FD will be reliable...till their engine blew and had to do a swap lol.

It's always the same argument.....smaller displacement but its not that much lighter than a piston engine.

Also, I mean treat it like an exotic in terms of maintenance not driving it like an exotic.
 
I just remember that that tiny rotary required a lot of maintenance and preventative measures that mostly dealt with cooling on my friends RX7. He had to add more aftermarket cooling solutions. Took up most of the engine bay. He kept the rest pretty stock. The most distressing was how often he had to put more oil into the car.

My friend was one of those who was passionate about rotaries but fell out of them once he was promoted. He drives a motorcycle and truck now.
 
Didn't know you asked me...

But yeah..back in the days I was surrounded by rotary lovers and always had a heated discussion with them. They always preach that with proper maintenance the FD will be reliable...till their engine blew and had to do a swap lol.

It's always the same argument.....smaller displacement but its not that much lighter than a piston engine.

Also, I mean treat it like an exotic in terms of maintenance not driving it like an exotic.

I just remember that that tiny rotary required a lot of maintenance and preventative measures that mostly dealt with cooling on my friends RX7. He had to add more aftermarket cooling solutions. Took up most of the engine bay. He kept the rest pretty stock. The most distressing was how often he had to put more oil into the car.

My friend was one of those who was passionate about rotaries but fell out of them once he was promoted. He drives a motorcycle and truck now.

There's a whole stew of reliability mods for the FD, mainly working with making cooling more adequate. I drive mine in 90+ degree weather in TX summers with the a/c on without any issues. You have to remember that these are old cars and there's more we know about them now than we used to, mainly through trial and error. There's a whole mess of stuff that made things complicated, like the rats nest, solenoids, turbos, and etc that creates issues. Compound those things by initial owners not knowing how to take care of their cars (and even dealers), pass the car around to different people, then throw in old age and you've got a nice mixture of things going wrong. Then you start playing the modding game to try to make high power and things break faster.

If he had to add that much oil then something else was wrong, I change my oil at 2000 - 3000 miles and never have to add any.

The maintenance is overblown. I mean, there's not much I do besides just get in my car and drive. I keep track of the mileage to do maintenance at their regular intervals and then dump premix into the gas tank whenever I fill up. Basically the same thing I do with every other cars I've had minus the premix. The only other thing I do is actually inspect hoses to make sure they aren't cracked or broken off. When I get home, I pop the hood to let the heat out and go inside.
 
Got lucky with the tire change lol.

I was bored at the dentist earlier and I checked out the reviews of the NTB I went to yesterday, turns out they fncking suck so I found another one close by that has decent recent reviews and I went there instead.

Turns out it was a good plan!

Instead of bullshitting with me like the other NTB, they told me straight up my car can't get on their alignment machine so they gave me another offer, $488 for the full set of Cooper Zeon RS3-A's and I took it.

As for the alignment, my fave Mazda dealer that does all the work for my Miata can do it so I'm having it done on Monday since they're so busy tomorrow.

As for initial impressions for the RS3-A's... holy mother of god, this shit is absolutely bananas in terms of ride noise and quality(especially coming from the rock hard Yokohama S.Drives) and it really is on par with the Continental DWS 06's, the other darling child of all season performance tires.

There's barely any road noise even on the highway, so I'm hearing my exhaust being all loud and proud and shit. And ride quality... this is what I've been looking for. No more back-breaking bumps or moments where it feels like I'm breaking my car by driving through bumps. Like it's still stiff and all because of my suspension but it definitely absorbs a lot of the bumps by 50% and that's more than what I was asking for lol.
 

Futaba

Member
Tempted to order some dry carbon doors for my 86.. theyre 3.5kg each, oem doors are 22kg each.. that's quite a substantial weight reduction..
Got some crazy plans to buy a second and turn the current one into a pure track car, along with engine swap, much the the bemusement of my partner, haha.
 

matmanx1

Member
Got lucky with the tire change lol.

I was bored at the dentist earlier and I checked out the reviews of the NTB I went to yesterday, turns out they fncking suck so I found another one close by that has decent recent reviews and I went there instead.

Turns out it was a good plan!

Instead of bullshitting with me like the other NTB, they told me straight up my car can't get on their alignment machine so they gave me another offer, $488 for the full set of Cooper Zeon RS3-A's and I took it.

As for the alignment, my fave Mazda dealer that does all the work for my Miata can do it so I'm having it done on Monday since they're so busy tomorrow.

As for initial impressions for the RS3-A's... holy mother of god, this shit is absolutely bananas in terms of ride noise and quality(especially coming from the rock hard Yokohama S.Drives) and it really is on par with the Continental DWS 06's, the other darling child of all season performance tires.

There's barely any road noise even on the highway, so I'm hearing my exhaust being all loud and proud and shit. And ride quality... this is what I've been looking for. No more back-breaking bumps or moments where it feels like I'm breaking my car by driving through bumps. Like it's still stiff and all because of my suspension but it definitely absorbs a lot of the bumps by 50% and that's more than what I was asking for lol.

Awesome! I know my MX-5 felt like a new car when I put new tires on it a couple of months back and I am still having a blast with the car. Having quality rubber on your ride is seriously the best and most important thing you can do to reignite that driving passion. I have no experience with the Cooper tire but it sounds like you made a good call. Enjoy them!

Tempted to order some dry carbon doors for my 86.. theyre 3.5kg each, oem doors are 22kg each.. that's quite a substantial weight reduction..
Got some crazy plans to buy a second and turn the current one into a pure track car, along with engine swap, much the the bemusement of my partner, haha.

That makes me drool a little bit. I think one of the best series of mods that you can do for an already light car is to find small ways to make it even lighter. I have some ideas for my MX-5 once I finish paying it off. If you have the cash, I think you should go for it.
 

Futaba

Member
Awesome! I know my MX-5 felt like a new car when I put new tires on it a couple of months back and I am still having a blast with the car. Having quality rubber on your ride is seriously the best and most important thing you can do to reignite that driving passion. I have no experience with the Cooper tire but it sounds like you made a good call. Enjoy them!



That makes me drool a little bit. I think one of the best series of mods that you can do for an already light car is to find small ways to make it even lighter. I have some ideas for my MX-5 once I finish paying it off. If you have the cash, I think you should go for it.

Same company does a carbon roof skin, carbon fenders/quarter panel, boot lid, hood, something close to 140kg reduction if you switch them all, pull out passengers seat, rear seats, speakers, dash trim, replace glass with plexi, pull out carpets and you end up with a car just shy of 900kg, do stuff like AC delete, ABS delete, lightweight wheels, lightweight calipers/suspension, control arms, battery, full aluminium radiator and who knows how light you could get it.... hmm.. my partner is seriously going to murder me..
 
Same company does a carbon roof skin, carbon fenders/quarter panel, boot lid, hood, something close to 140kg reduction if you switch them all, pull out passengers seat, rear seats, speakers, dash trim, replace glass with plexi, pull out carpets and you end up with a car just shy of 900kg, do stuff like AC delete, ABS delete, lightweight wheels, lightweight calipers/suspension, control arms, battery, full aluminium radiator and who knows how light you could get it.... hmm.. my partner is seriously going to murder me..

That's why you do what everyone else does and say you got it for an awesome price that's only 10% of what you actually paid.
 
Awesome! I know my MX-5 felt like a new car when I put new tires on it a couple of months back and I am still having a blast with the car. Having quality rubber on your ride is seriously the best and most important thing you can do to reignite that driving passion. I have no experience with the Cooper tire but it sounds like you made a good call. Enjoy them!

Lol mine feels the same but only more quiet and comfortable which I'm perfectly happy with.

I haven't taken it out much since I haven't gotten an alignment and they're all season tires so I'd rather get the alignment done before I can try to figure out the limits of the tires.

I've been on the Yoko S.Drives since I got the car 4 years ago(obviously I got a new set 3 years ago lol) so I've gotten a really good feel on how the car handles ever since. It's gonna be fun trying to figure out the limits of the car now.

I also don't have any experience with the RS3-A's but a lot of people say it's the alternative to the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, a tire that's considered to be the best all seasons you can get(supposedly even better than the Michelin Pilot Sport AS3). I'll definitely provide a review in a month or two of the tires, I'm sure somebody can find it useful.
 

No Love

Banned
Same company does a carbon roof skin, carbon fenders/quarter panel, boot lid, hood, something close to 140kg reduction if you switch them all, pull out passengers seat, rear seats, speakers, dash trim, replace glass with plexi, pull out carpets and you end up with a car just shy of 900kg, do stuff like AC delete, ABS delete, lightweight wheels, lightweight calipers/suspension, control arms, battery, full aluminium radiator and who knows how light you could get it.... hmm.. my partner is seriously going to murder me..

Yeah and then you end with a riced out car. Try being subtle with weight reduction. All that crap isn't worth it on a low end car IMO. I'd stick with lightweight battery/wheels/tires, exhaust upgrade (shaves weight), maybe aftermarket seats, take out rear seats for fun times, etc. Wasting money on carbon stuff seems like massively diminished returns. Strategically removing wright without compromising the livability of the car seems more fun to me.
 
Same company does a carbon roof skin, carbon fenders/quarter panel, boot lid, hood, something close to 140kg reduction if you switch them all, pull out passengers seat, rear seats, speakers, dash trim, replace glass with plexi, pull out carpets and you end up with a car just shy of 900kg, do stuff like AC delete, ABS delete, lightweight wheels, lightweight calipers/suspension, control arms, battery, full aluminium radiator and who knows how light you could get it.... hmm.. my partner is seriously going to murder me..

at that point buy a aerial atom?
 

Futaba

Member
Yeah and then you end with a riced out car. Try being subtle with weight reduction. All that crap isn't worth it on a low end car IMO. I'd stick with lightweight battery/wheels/tires, exhaust upgrade (shaves weight), maybe aftermarket seats, take out rear seats for fun times, etc. Wasting money on carbon stuff seems like massively diminished returns. Strategically removing wright without compromising the livability of the car seems more fun to me.

In my case I'd be tracking the car at fuji speedway / tsukuba circuit, potentially buying another to use as DD, so livability isn't really an issue, also replacing panels with dry carbon isn't the only option, theres plenty of dealers here that sell FRP oem panels/skins too, which are lighter, but much cheaper than the dry carbon, all in all tracking a car isn't really all that expensive for the modification, the biggest expense is in tires.

The car being 'riced out' really doesn't matter, since it would be purely for fun to throw around the track, and all in, still significantly cheaper than many other vehicles that get tracked.

at that point buy a aerial atom?

ariel atom used price here : 5.6m yen
gt86 used price here : 1.6m yen
weight reduction/modification : 800k-1.2m yen

However you slice it, i can have a fully tracked 86 with engine swap *AND* a second 86 to use as a DD for 1.2m yen less than a used atom.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
In my case I'd be tracking the car at fuji speedway / tsukuba circuit, potentially buying another to use as DD, so livability isn't really an issue, also replacing panels with dry carbon isn't the only option, theres plenty of dealers here that sell FRP oem panels/skins too, which are lighter, but much cheaper than the dry carbon, all in all tracking a car isn't really all that expensive for the modification, the biggest expense is in tires.

The car being 'riced out' really doesn't matter, since it would be purely for fun to throw around the track, and all in, still significantly cheaper than many other vehicles that get tracked.



ariel atom used price here : 5.6m yen
gt86 used price here : 1.6m yen
weight reduction/modification : 800k-1.2m yen

However you slice it, i can have a fully tracked 86 with engine swap *AND* a second 86 to use as a DD for 1.2m yen less than a used atom.

Problem is that modding your car to that extent will likely hurt the value of your car. And you'll recoup about 50% of your mods cost, but you'll have to pay for labor twice (install, and remove) since selling a modded car adds no value to it...although Japan may be a slightly different market than the US.
 

Futaba

Member
Problem is that modding your car to that extent will likely hurt the value of your car. And you'll recoup about 50% of your mods cost, but you'll have to pay for labor twice (install, and remove) since selling a modded car adds no value to it...although Japan may be a slightly different market than the US.

As I would be tracking it I'd be tracking it till it dies a death (barrier, ball, etc) I wouldn't feel right slapping OEM parts back on and selling it on to someone else after it received that much abuse, that would just be cruel to the next owner, so in deciding to make it a track specific car I'll be more or less writing off the potential for resale.

And let's be honest 1.6mill yen is pretty cheap anyway, when I bought the first the exchange rate was 124 yen to the dollar which puts 1.6m yen around 13,000usd, which is nothing these days.

As for labour I do 95% of the work myself, Inc welding, fabrication so it's only really raw material cost and free time, and the mods would be staying on so it's only a one time deal (unless I change/upgrade mode), the car wouldn't be road legal at that point anyway so all road related concerns such as shaken, tax, insurance, fees and surcharges no longer have to be worried about either.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
As I would be tracking it I'd be tracking it till it dies a death (barrier, ball, etc) I wouldn't feel right slapping OEM parts back on and selling it on to someone else after it received that much abuse, that would just be cruel to the next owner, so in deciding to make it a track specific car I'll be more or less writing off the potential for resale.

And let's be honest 1.6mill yen is pretty cheap anyway, when I bought the first the exchange rate was 124 yen to the dollar which puts 1.6m yen around 13,000usd, which is nothing these days.

As for labour I do 95% of the work myself, Inc welding, fabrication so it's only really raw material cost and free time, and the mods would be staying on so it's only a one time deal (unless I change/upgrade mode), the car wouldn't be road legal at that point anyway so all road related concerns such as shaken, tax, insurance, fees and surcharges no longer have to be worried about either.

In that case, go for it. Make it a track rat. Just keep us updated.
 

Futaba

Member
In that case, go for it. Make it a track rat. Just keep us updated.
That's the plan! But I need to jiggle around the cars I have already first, was reminded earlier this week that I still have an impulse buy clogging up a friend's storage space too haha.

Will all be resolved once I get the new place built and ready to move in to
 
That's the plan! But I need to jiggle around the cars I have already first, was reminded earlier this week that I still have an impulse buy clogging up a friend's storage space too haha.

Will all be resolved once I get the new place built and ready to move in to

How easy is it to own multiple cars in Japan? I almost never see houses with more than 3 places to park a car, and even 3 spots isn't that common.
 

Futaba

Member
How easy is it to own multiple cars in Japan? I almost never see houses with more than 3 places to park a car, and even 3 spots isn't that common.

Very easy if you don't live somewhere too busy, I have 2 parking spaces and rent a shipping container storage unit that has two cars currently not registered for road use, one a restoration project and one thats waiting to take a place in my garage eventually.

If all goes well the house we're building will have enough space to house three inside and one outside.

Would be near impossible to achieve that in a built up area though!
 
Very easy if you don't live somewhere too busy, I have 2 parking spaces and rent a shipping container storage unit that has two cars currently not registered for road use, one a restoration project and one thats waiting to take a place in my garage eventually.

If all goes well the house we're building will have enough space to house three inside and one outside.

Would be near impossible to achieve that in a built up area though!

Sounds like a great plan! What cars are they?
 
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