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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

Tizoc

Member
Not the best rear sight lines on the Santa Fe. I would suggest driving one in medium traffic to see if its tolerable for you.

Generally speaking, for $20,000 you would be better served with a CPO vehicle. Otherwise, your looking at stripped down mid-size SUV's starting around $23-26k or a fully optioned Jeep Compass. In no circumstance do you want the Compass. It would be helpful if you could answer these questions:

What do you consider necessary in a new car and what do you want, but are willing to compromise on?

Warranty coverage?
Active all wheel drive?
Type (tradition or extended to passenger area) or inclusion of sun/moon roof?
Safety?
Back seat head room?
Technology and option packages?
Do you need towing capacity?

Allow me to elaborate: I'm not getting a new car for traveling to mountainous regions on the like, I mainly drive in cities, from work to home or to visit friends or family, basic simple stuff.
I've just gotten used to driving in a 'big' or wide car that has elevation.

After a little research, I've found the following models to my interest
Hyundai Creta, Tucson & SantaFe
Toyota Rav4

I plan on getting a new car in 2 months time and those models range between $20K-25K which I can adjust my budget to.

I'm not looking for much anything fancy outside of a navicomp/map.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Allow me to elaborate: I'm not getting a new car for traveling to mountainous regions on the like, I mainly drive in cities, from work to home or to visit friends or family, basic simple stuff.
I've just gotten used to driving in a 'big' or wide car that has elevation.

After a little research, I've found the following models to my interest
Hyundai Creta, Tucson & SantaFe
Toyota Rav4

I plan on getting a new car in 2 months time and those models range between $20K-25K which I can adjust my budget to.

I'm not looking for much anything fancy outside of a navicomp/map.

You should seriously consider the Mazda CX5 also. And if you're interested in a smaller vehicle, the CX3 is basically a bargain basement Audi A3.
 
Any chance of America getting a manual Subaru Levora?
maxresdefault.jpg


Basically the fun family car I always wanted.

Zero. Even the STI version is CVT.

I actually really love the CVT in my XT. It just limits the desire to mod the car and potentially grenade a non-serviceable $8000 part.
 
I guess I am one of the few Americans that want a sporty wagon. I was looking at craigslist and so many of the 3 series touring have more than 100k miles on them and often mentioned how much they love the car.

I don't understand why the rest of the world (or at least Australia & Japan) get a WRX wagon.

Its going to be at least another year or two before I replace one of my cars anyways.
 
CUVs have effectively killed wagons in the US except for a few of the standard holdouts (i.e. Volvo).

Subaru knows they need a turbo 5-door for the US market, they probably just don't know if that means making a 5-door WRX, or bringing over the Levorg and deal with the concerns of where to place it in their lineup. If the highest spec from Japan is brought over, then the Levorg would have similar HP to a WRX STI, and be more luxurious and specced out than a Legacy/Outback. How do you price that thing?

Also, if one of your requirements for "sporty" is to be able to row your own gears, then you're gonna be even more disappointed.Future automatic emergency braking mandates are going to kill even more manual transmissions over the next 5 years.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
CUVs have effectively killed wagons in the US except for a few of the standard holdouts (i.e. Volvo).

Subaru knows they need a turbo 5-door for the US market, they probably just don't know if that means making a 5-door WRX, or bringing over the Levorg and deal with the concerns of where to place it in their lineup. If the highest spec from Japan is brought over, then the Levorg would have similar HP to a WRX STI, and be more luxurious and specced out than a Legacy/Outback. How do you price that thing?

Also, if one of your requirements for "sporty" is to be able to row your own gears, then you're gonna be even more disappointed.Future automatic emergency braking mandates are going to kill even more manual transmissions over the next 5 years.

Manual transmissions (Especially in the US) are an absurd holdover anyway. No problem at all with them continuing to exist for enthusiasts, but the idea that you can save gas or driver faster is destroyed by the way most folks actually shift gears in this country. I get HIVES listening to shifts from Impreza and GT86 drivers. This is because in the US you can legally drive a stick shift Diablo VT after passing your test in an automatic minivan.

People can complain about CVTs and "flappy paddles" all they want, and they can inject a healthy dose of no true Scotsman, but the fact is our country has a giant percentage of people with absolutely no idea how to shift gears other than for maximum noise.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
It's a shame it doesn't look as nice as the CTS-V coupe. The longer sides just destroy the Snowspeeder Wedge profile.

But damn. Perfect Sleeper.
 
Man, I keep seeing that damn HR-V commercial everywhere now. I just got back from lunch at a BDubs and I saw it on a number of different channels. I just wanted to eat some wings in peace dammit.

People can complain about CVTs and "flappy paddles" all they want, and they can inject a healthy dose of no true Scotsman, but the fact is our country has a giant percentage of people with absolutely no idea how to shift gears other than for maximum noise.

What is the proper RPM to shift gears?

My Miata is pretty loud above 2.5K so I personally shift at 3K if I want to stay quiet, 4K if I want some noise, and redline if I really need the torque.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Man, I keep seeing that damn HR-V commercial everywhere now. I just got back from lunch at a BDubs and I saw it on a number of different channels. I just wanted to eat some wings in peace dammit.



What is the proper RPM to shift gears?

My Miata is pretty loud above 2.5K so I personally shift at 3K if I want to stay quiet, 4K if I want some noise, and redline if I really need the torque.

Depends on the car, engine, speed, hills, wind, you name it. There's no permanent "right" answer (although there's always a range), which is why computers are often far better at it than humans.
 

No Love

Banned
Man, I keep seeing that damn HR-V commercial everywhere now. I just got back from lunch at a BDubs and I saw it on a number of different channels. I just wanted to eat some wings in peace dammit.



What is the proper RPM to shift gears?

My Miata is pretty loud above 2.5K so I personally shift at 3K if I want to stay quiet, 4K if I want some noise, and redline if I really need the torque.

I always find a point in the rev range (depending on gearing) where the engine harmonics and "feel" change. Hard to explain but there's various shift points where it "feels" right to shift, like the engine is asking for the next gear.

That being said, my exhaust and motor come alive at 3-4k RPM and that's where it sounds exotic and snarls and has various "sexy" harmonics going on.
 

Evo X

Member
I always find a point in the rev range (depending on gearing) where the engine harmonics and "feel" change. Hard to explain but there's various shift points where it "feels" right to shift, like the engine is asking for the next gear.

That being said, my exhaust and motor come alive at 3-4k RPM and that's where it sounds exotic and snarls and has various "sexy" harmonics going on.

I believe you are referring to VTEC Kicking In Yo™.
 
Depends on the car, engine, speed, hills, wind, you name it. There's no permanent "right" answer (although there's always a range), which is why computers are often far better at it than humans.

True but in regards to automatics, I think it also depends on the driver.

Give a guy who's driven stick all his life the ability to change gears on an automatic, I'm willing to bet he's gonna be the better "transmission" compared to the computer. Whereas if it's a guy who's never driven stick and gets the option to change gears on an auto, yeah I'd agree that the computer would be better than him.

I always find a point in the rev range (depending on gearing) where the engine harmonics and "feel" change. Hard to explain but there's various shift points where it "feels" right to shift, like the engine is asking for the next gear.

Yeah, it's basically the same approach for me. I don't even look at the RPM gauge now when I shift, like I know just by the sound and feel of the car that I'm at 3K, 4K or whatever and just shift appropriately. It's like I've become the transmission and my brain automatically commands my entire body to do the appropriate motions of shifting lol.
 
Is this too low for you Auto-GAF?



Lolol don't mind me, just showing off my new shoes haha.




Look at that almost non-existent wheel gap and decent amount of negative camber... yumm!

Alright, I'm done being a corny-ass mofo so here's some ass lol.

 
Looks good, where in Texas are you? I would hate driving that in some parts of Houston.

Thanks!

I'm in DFW and surprisingly, it's not that bad over here. There's definitely some sections where I just avoid for fear of scraping or when the suspension travels a lot and it rubs for like a split second but beyond that I haven't had any issues. Even better is that the new tires soften up the ride so it's been a lot of fun commuting lol.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
PSA for those who lease: Cadillac is offering a 36 month/30k mile lease on the ATS-V Coupe and Sedan for $450/month, $5000 down.

http://www.cadillac.com/current-offers.html?x-zipcode=97201

:p

Wow! That's a hell of a deal for a lot of car. I'm gonna do some backwards math to determine what it would cost without a large deposit.

Edit: So that $4909 deposit still requires tax separately, which is $1000-1500 (depending on your state tax). Plus the bank and DMV fees (which I usually pay upfront), they come out to about $800-900 combined. Plus your first payment is due that day too. Also this is at MSRP. Soo...

At MSRP with only $1000 upfront to register and take the car, you're looking at a monthly payment of $613. These cars can go thousands below MSRP and even invoice, so you'll be able to save possibly up to $40-50 off that. So figure the lease could run you at best $570. Still a great deal imo. But the 10K annual mileage sucks for places with a lot of driving.
 

Futaba

Member
Just spotted this in the local convenience store..
bksNBvE.jpg


Hope it's just a concept render, looks awful, hood scoop screams celica vvti
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Just spotted this in the local convenience store..

Hope it's just a concept render, looks awful.

They always are.

The only car to ever be PROPERLY rendered to its actual likeness was the 370Z. And in fact, an image that was written off as a fake leaked online 11 months before the reveal of the 370Z. I'll try to find it.

Edit: Here it is.

370Z.jpg


They even got the hoodlines down. Down to the fangs in the grille. It may even be a real pic, instead of an image. But this was lifted from a Japanese car mag like the one above, so it's hard to judge by the quality of the scan.

563245d1224240180-370z-pics-nissan-real-one-niss_z34_bcrender02_mgv_pakwheels-com-.jpg

563247-370z-pics-nissan-real-one-niss_z34_bcrender04_2qo_pakwheels-com-.jpg


Yep, this seriously leaked a whole year before the car was revealed. It was the cleanest and most accurate render I've ever seen in my life. I wouldn't be surprised if a Nissan insider did it too.

Edit 2: I'm actually convinced this is an actual pic. It even has the little bumps at the bottom of the front bumper. I bet you someone from Polyphony leaked it. :p
 

Futaba

Member
Was bored so I picked it up and did some full page scans, haven't used page blending skills since scanlating as a teen, so forgive the rough joins.


Among the other stuff listed, some of the standout parts is, a 1.6 litre direct injection turbo, and a convertible version.
 
If that hood scoop is actually useful(aka turbo) then I'm okay with it and it'll be an instabuy. If it's the same dang thing as it is right now, then no thanks.

Put some spacers on them wheels. Those NC's have ginormous wheel arches yet Mazda has some insane sunken offsets.

Yeah, they're at +55 offset lol. I've looked before and the one every recommends is a 5mm spacer but it's $30 a pop and I can think of better ways to spend that $120 on the car so I've just been putting it off.

I've been also debating on picking up new rims, something around +40-48 offset and while there's a lot of them out there, I just can't choose. For a while I was set on bronze RPF1's but almost everyone and their moms run RPF1's on their Miatas so I'm looking for something bronze and less than 17lbs(those stock wheels are 17.5lbs IIRC). There are some out there but it's not a priority so they've also been put off lol.

We'll see next year though when my yearly alignment rolls around, if I still haven't decided on wheels I'll probably just pick up those 5mm spacers and have it done along with the alignment.

Edit 2: I'm actually convinced this is an actual pic. It even has the little bumps at the bottom of the front bumper. I bet you someone from Polyphony leaked it. :p

Lmao that insider should've spent their time fixing GT's sound instead of leaking a car.

Speaking of which, you kinda called it... when I saw that GT Sport was delayed I was like... fncking Alpha lol. But at the same time, it's good that it's happening... I wasn't really willing to spend $100 on FH3 UE but since I have no reason to buy a PS4 this year, I'll be putting that cash on UE instead haha.
 
Is this too low for you Auto-GAF?



Lolol don't mind me, just showing off my new shoes haha.




Look at that almost non-existent wheel gap and decent amount of negative camber... yumm!

Alright, I'm done being a corny-ass mofo so here's some ass lol.


Too low? Where's the after pics of it lowered?

For real though, its not bad for a car driven on the street, looks good. Though if it were me I'd probably change the wheels as well.
 

Casimir

Unconfirmed Member
Allow me to elaborate: I'm not getting a new car for traveling to mountainous regions on the like, I mainly drive in cities, from work to home or to visit friends or family, basic simple stuff.
I've just gotten used to driving in a 'big' or wide car that has elevation.

After a little research, I've found the following models to my interest
Hyundai Creta, Tucson & SantaFe
Toyota Rav4

I plan on getting a new car in 2 months time and those models range between $20K-25K which I can adjust my budget to.

I'm not looking for much anything fancy outside of a navicomp/map.

The Tucson is the overall better choice unless you see yourself needing the extra seating or carrying capacity of a 3 row SUV often. In the latter case, the Santa Fe is the only one of the four that is a 3 row SUV. If you get the Tucson, I would suggest getting the newer 1.6T engine, even though it uses a finicky DCT, as it has more power and better mileage than the older 2.0 found in the lower trim. Driving isn't the most exhilarating experience, but it was better than I expected it to be. The one major issue with the Tucson is that like the Santa Fe, the rear blind spots are noticeable.

The RAV4, like most Toyota's, is a very reliable and very practical, but visually its design leaves much to be desired. On the positive side, it's a bit bigger than the Tucson, so it's a good option if you want more cargo room but don't want to step up to a 3 row SUV. Driving wise...it's a Toyota. Don't expect the RAV4 to compare to a CX-5. Also, depending on what you end up optioning it to, you might end up paying more than what you would for the equivalent Tucson.


I haven't had any personal experience with the Creta, so I don't want to make any strong recommendations either way. But, as it's slotted below the Tucson which is already a smaller SUV than a 3 row, it may not deliver the SUV experience that you want.
 

KrisB

Member
Took the Cima down to a friend's workshop this morning to get an idea of how much power it's putting out in near stock form. Previous owner in Japan put a Nismo S Tune filter and a Nismo catback exhaust on it but left everything else standard.

D8sr6jL.jpg


Made 166RWKW

https://youtu.be/dD-XPH_Aa2c
 

Smokey

Member
Wow! That's a hell of a deal for a lot of car. I'm gonna do some backwards math to determine what it would cost without a large deposit.

Edit: So that $4909 deposit still requires tax separately, which is $1000-1500 (depending on your state tax). Plus the bank and DMV fees (which I usually pay upfront), they come out to about $800-900 combined. Plus your first payment is due that day too. Also this is at MSRP. Soo...

At MSRP with only $1000 upfront to register and take the car, you're looking at a monthly payment of $613. These cars can go thousands below MSRP and even invoice, so you'll be able to save possibly up to $40-50 off that. So figure the lease could run you at best $570. Still a great deal imo. But the 10K annual mileage sucks for places with a lot of driving.

For the deal advertised that's a lot of money upfront to essentially rent a car and be told how much you can drive it.

Just buy it at that point
 

matmanx1

Member
Man, I keep seeing that damn HR-V commercial everywhere now. I just got back from lunch at a BDubs and I saw it on a number of different channels. I just wanted to eat some wings in peace dammit.



What is the proper RPM to shift gears?

My Miata is pretty loud above 2.5K so I personally shift at 3K if I want to stay quiet, 4K if I want some noise, and redline if I really need the torque.

I've found that the MX-5 is a pleasure to shift by ear. It revs quickly and sounds good doing it, at least as far as engine noise in the cabin goes. I honestly don't find the car to be that noisy in comparison to the 987 Boxster that was my first roadster. Now that car was LOUD to rev up, especially with the amount of mechanical noise in the cabin with the top up.

I think MX-5's are probably one of the easier cars to "get good" at learning to shift properly as long as you put some time and effort into it. It's been a real pleasure for me so far to get to know the car.

I can't stop thinking about this Exocet video. A Frame and donor NB and a turbo kit.

Really hope to do this kinda conversion with my kids someday.

My brother-in-law works with the Exocet people sometimes doing exhaust work. He has shown me some extremely cool setups.

Is this too low for you Auto-GAF?



Lolol don't mind me, just showing off my new shoes haha.




Look at that almost non-existent wheel gap and decent amount of negative camber... yumm!

Alright, I'm done being a corny-ass mofo so here's some ass lol.


Great looking pics but yeah, that's a bit low for my taste. I'd like less gap than I have now but I wouldn't want it quite as low as you have yours. Still, your ride is looking sharp, especially for an 06!
 

NH Apache

Banned
Alright GAF, I'm about to go on a Craigslist adventure and any tips along the way would be most helpful.

I've had a 2011 Soul since I bought it new (12k) back in feb 2012. I'm about to pay it off and while it has been amazing for reliability and gotten me through a necessary time, I'm ready to trade it up for something else.

After talking with the wife, I'm allowed to use the funds from the sale of the Soul only. I have a dealer buyback offer for 4800, so I should be able to sell for about 6k.

Meanwhile, I want a Jeep. Yes, I know all the limitations of having one, I've had two before: 1954 Willy's and 97 Sahara. And now I want a CJ, something I can hold onto for a long time.

This falls into my spending range (full CL link in email tags):

3G4on9p.jpg




He is asking 4800. It's been on CL for 8 days. If I like it, I'm going to have it once-d over by the local jeep shop.

Any tips for car buying on CL? I will be using this as a daily driver (7 minute commute). Longer trips, we'll use my wife's car. I'm curious to see what GAF thinks.

Also, I need tips on selling my 2011 Soul base model, very good condition. I have 4 payments left on it that I'll lump pay. Will that complicate the selling process? Can I sell it if the bank still "owns" it?

Edit: Went to see the jeep and it turns over immediately and runs smooth. No excessive rust on the frame. Some body panel rust. Talked to the bank and they said I basically have to pay off the loan before I can sell. Not a big deal. I'll send out a check tomorrow and should expect the title in 3-5 business days.

Talked the guy down to 3800 for the above jeep. I think I'm going to go for it.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
For the deal advertised that's a lot of money upfront to essentially rent a car and be told how much you can drive it.

Just buy it at that point

You don't want to buy a car above $50-60K+. The value drops like a tank for the first 24 months - buy it used once the depreciation has started to slow down a bit and you end up with a 2-year old car, for many thousands cheaper + a 2 year CPO warranty. On a luxury car that often means 2-3 years of balance of factory warranty + additional 2 years added to that.

As a lease, $570-599 is a good deal if you do the up front DMV + Bank fees deal. It's a very fast and nice car for the money since it's an M3/M4 competitor. M3/M4 leases are horrible for some reason, never a decent program on them.

Also, I think this is all moot...since the Caddy deal expired yesterday. :p
 
Too low? Where's the after pics of it lowered?

For real though, its not bad for a car driven on the street, looks good. Though if it were me I'd probably change the wheels as well.

Here's how it looks like stock:

407718_3232447255339_1908847097_n.jpg


It's like a goddamn 4x4 sports car. The bad thing was, it wasn't even a cushy ride... it still felt stiff and don't even get me started on body roll lol.

you have suspension travel, it isn't too low.

Haha true true.

I've found that the MX-5 is a pleasure to shift by ear. It revs quickly and sounds good doing it, at least as far as engine noise in the cabin goes. I honestly don't find the car to be that noisy in comparison to the 987 Boxster that was my first roadster. Now that car was LOUD to rev up, especially with the amount of mechanical noise in the cabin with the top up.

I think MX-5's are probably one of the easier cars to "get good" at learning to shift properly as long as you put some time and effort into it. It's been a real pleasure for me so far to get to know the car.

Great looking pics but yeah, that's a bit low for my taste. I'd like less gap than I have now but I wouldn't want it quite as low as you have yours. Still, your ride is looking sharp, especially for an 06!

Road noise is the biggest issue I've found with the soft-tops. Even at 100mph my GWR race muffler isn't obscenely loud inside the cabin, but if the tires contributed a lot of road noise? There were times before(back when I still my summer tires) that I could barely hold a conversation in my car lol. I had to turn off the radio and speak a little louder than normal just so I could do it.

As for the ride height... if this is too low for you then stay away from the Koni Yellow Shocks + Eibach Pro-kit combo... AFAIK, it's the lowest shock+spring combo you can get that aren't coilovers. I've actually been eyeing some Progress Springs so I can lift it up by at least half an inch but I really love the look, more so now with the meaty tires so idk lol.
 

matmanx1

Member
Oh really?

Dealer is still offering to buy back my car for MSRP 6 months later. ;)

Well, your car is obviously an exception. GT4's have increased in value. Most cars do not.

Here's how it looks like stock:

407718_3232447255339_1908847097_n.jpg


It's like a goddamn 4x4 sports car. The bad thing was, it wasn't even a cushy ride... it still felt stiff and don't even get me started on body roll lol.



Haha true true.



Road noise is the biggest issue I've found with the soft-tops. Even at 100mph my GWR race muffler isn't obscenely loud inside the cabin, but if the tires contributed a lot of road noise? There were times before(back when I still my summer tires) that I could barely hold a conversation in my car lol. I had to turn off the radio and speak a little louder than normal just so I could do it.

As for the ride height... if this is too low for you then stay away from the Koni Yellow Shocks + Eibach Pro-kit combo... AFAIK, it's the lowest shock+spring combo you can get that aren't coilovers. I've actually been eyeing some Progress Springs so I can lift it up by at least half an inch but I really love the look, more so now with the meaty tires so idk lol.

Yeah I completely agree with the body roll. I'll have to dial that down at some point but it isn't a high priority right now.

For me it is the wind noise I notice the most. The BFGoodrich Comp 2 T/A is a very quiet tire and at this point I have very little road noise unless it is just a bad road.

At some point I will look into some suspension upgrade options but we are close to starting the first phase of the garage project (which will involve tree removal, dirt removal, grading, concrete pad and poured concrete walls and driveway) and I'm putting most all of my fun money towards that right now.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Oh really?

Dealer is still offering to buy back my car for MSRP 6 months later. ;)

A 2-seater limited edition track focused Porsche is a far cry from "car", we know that Porsches hold their value. A Cadillac with a hopped up parts-bin motor isn't. Neither is a BMW M-car.
 

Smokey

Member
BTW Evo...

I know you said you have two houses? On in Cali and one in Chicago? Why not move to Cali full time? When are you going to do a cross country trip in the GT4?!
 

Evo X

Member
why is there always an Alphasnake and Evo X pissing contest...

Lol.

A 2-seater limited edition track focused Porsche is a far cry from "car", we know that Porsches hold their value. A Cadillac with a hopped up parts-bin motor isn't. Neither is a BMW M-car.

Haha, I was just fucking with you. I've learned from the mistakes that my parents and brother made to not buy a common high end luxury cars. Haven't lost much money on most of my stuff because I get the right cars or look for clean pre owned examples.

BTW Evo...

I know you said you have two houses? On in Cali and one in Chicago? Why not move to Cali full time? When are you going to do a cross country trip in the GT4?!

I have a lot of friends and family in Chicago and the summers here are not as hot as SoCal.

Im also a real estate broker in Illinois and have some business deals in progress.

GT4 will most likely be shipped to California in an enclosed trailer. Not much sense to put miles on it and I will never do the mind numbing drive through Iowa and Nebraska ever again. The fixed bucket seats and super stiff suspension would be terrible too.
 

Zyzyxxz

Member
GT4 will most likely be shipped to California in an enclosed trailer. Not much sense to put miles on it and I will never do the mind numbing drive through Iowa and Nebraska ever again. The fixed bucket seats and super stiff suspension would be terrible too.

One of the worst drives ever for sure, rode along with my friend for that drive from Cali to Chicago. Won't do that again.

Also your GT4 will like Cali better, it belongs here.
 

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
If I had my own house in California and it was empty, I'd either rent it out or live in it forever. Why not just sell it and maybe make some profit?

In any case, there are always two states that are an absolute nightmare to get through. The 1100 mile drive from NYC to Orange County FL it's North and South Carolina. It's the same trees on loop like a Hannah Barbera cartoon background repeating during a chase scene.

So fucking boring.
 
If I had my own house in California and it was empty, I'd either rent it out or live in it forever. Why not just sell it and maybe make some profit?

In any case, there are always two states that are an absolute nightmare to get through. The 1100 mile drive from NYC to Orange County FL it's North and South Carolina. It's the same trees on loop like a Hannah Barbera cartoon background repeating during a chase scene.

So fucking boring.
Yeah, I've done that trip a few times.
The Carolinas feel like they go on foooooorever.


Once you get into Florida though, I know people give that state a lot of crap but I think it has some nice scenery on the way down.
 
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