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Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86

A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Trust us, leave the smell alone. Fruity smells will NEVER come out and overtime it'll just smell awful.

I swear I step foot into some old cars and the smell inside is awful from one too many airfresheners.
 
G

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
xnipx said:
I just brought a brand new car. It doesn't stink. It's just.....bland. And the ladies love the fruity smells. I was just wondering if anybody had any gems that last longer than gas station trees
Click to expand...

More trees.
 
D

Dr.Guru of Peru

played the long game
Fuck. I came home today after work to find my rear light smashed. Money's pretty tight right now, so I'm obviously pretty pissed. Is it worth going through insurance for something like this? I don't want it to affect my insurance premiums. Should I report it? What about reporting it to the police?

CZIlRKN.jpg
Click to expand...
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Dr.Guru of Peru said:
Fuck. I came home today after work to find my rear light smashed. Money's pretty tight right now, so I'm obviously pretty pissed. Is it worth going through insurance for something like this? I don't want it to affect my insurance premiums. Should I report it? What about reporting it to the police?
Click to expand...

What car is it? Badge looks like it says GLE which was a trim package on Maximas. And it looks like a late 4th gen Maxima, 97-99.

Anyways, it's not worth reporting a broken taillight to insurance. Your deductible is far more than what the light costs to replace, which is usually about $50 and plug and play. See below:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-DS468...ssan|Model:Maxima&hash=item4863245816&vxp=mtr

All you need is a screwdriver to work on old Maximas. It'll literally take you 15 minutes to pop the new light in. There are DIYs all over the net and forums.
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
Dr.Guru of Peru said:
Fuck. I came home today after work to find my rear light smashed. Money's pretty tight right now, so I'm obviously pretty pissed. Is it worth going through insurance for something like this? I don't want it to affect my insurance premiums. Should I report it? What about reporting it to the police?
Click to expand...

+1 w/ Alpha. Head/tail light housings are one of the easier things to replace DIY, and there should be plentiful amounts of How-tos on doing it for your car, too.


10499252_833089336724749_1392168270_n.jpg

Dat negative camber. :\

These used to be snow tires. I decided to wear em out over this season and save my summers a bit. The next winters I get, hopefully they'll not be directional.
 
J

J-Rzez

Member
DAT Blizzak 60% snow tire 40% all season rubber. Still, WS-50/WS-70s are my fav snow tires.


Also now, little over a month until my 15 WRX comes in. I hope I don't hate it when I drive it. Got $2000 set aside for mods for it (if I love it and buy it) after I break it in at 1000mi. I said I wasn't going nuts, but TBE, Cobb AP, hardpipe kit are already on the table. And of course, the absolutely mandatory, necessary, rally armor mud flaps.
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
J-Rzez said:
Also now, little over a month until my 15 WRX comes in. I hope I don't hate it when I drive it. Got $2000 set aside for mods for it (if I love it and buy it) after I break it in at 1000mi. I said I wasn't going nuts, but TBE, Cobb AP, hardpipe kit are already on the table. And of course, the absolutely mandatory, necessary, rally armor mud flaps.
Click to expand...

What, no Dom 2.5XTR? :D
 
R

ruxtpin

Banned
Eh, works for me. I've been cross shopping the CCXR, a new Corvette, a 1936 VW GTI, and a camo-wrapped and stanced Ford Model-T. Hopefully he'll get around to one of those last two before I make a purchase decision.
 
G

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
ruxtpin said:
Eh, works for me. I've been cross shopping the CCXR, a new Corvette, a 1936 VW GTI, and a camo-wrapped and stanced Ford Model-T. Hopefully he'll get around to one of those last two before I make a purchase decision.
Click to expand...

No way!? I've been in the same market. Don't scalp my cars!


In other news, Hennessey is trying to smash the Veyron record by going for ~290mph.
"I think something in the 290mph range will be possible," boss John Hennessey tells TG in an exclusive interview.
...
How much more power? Hennessey isn't revealing precise figures yet - partly because he's still figuring out exactly how much extra juice there is to be squeezed from the 7.0 twin-turbo V8 - but tells TG "it could possibly exceed 1,400bhp".
Click to expand...

link

I think it will be interesting to see how Bugatti responds to this. Supposedly they are developing a 1500hp hybrid variant of the Veyron.
 
P

pj

Banned
I am currently car-less in Brooklyn but I have been thinking about getting one lately for errands/day trips/holiday trips to visit family.

I sold my previous car, a 2002 BMW 530i, over a year ago because of the constant tickets and worries of damage. BUT, I am now in a neighborhood with much easier parking and I won't feel like babying a car that's already scratched and dinged. I have zipcar but I rarely use it because the hourly rates are getting ridiculous and if you want a car on a weekend you need to plan way in advance.

My criteria are:
Wagon or SUV for trips with cargo and/or the dog.
$4000 max
Reliable
Cheap to insure

Options I've come up with:
2001+ Nissan Pathfinder/Infinity QX4, ~150k miles. People say they are reliable and I see a lot of them for sale with 200k+ miles, which is encouraging. They get pretty shitty gas mileage though.

1998 or 2003+ Volvo V70, ~175k miles. There are tons of them available with well over 200k miles, but the internet says when things do break it will cost more to fix. Most of the ones available are 99-2002 AWD version which have more problems. Coincidentally there are 4 of these on my block.

~1998 Mercedes e320 wagon, ~175k miles. Not as common as the others but they apparently run forever. Same issue as the volvo though where if something goes wrong it will cost me.

Anyone have experience with any of these, or recommend something I haven't considered?
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
J-Rzez said:
Lol, I'm going beyond what I originally envisioned I would do mod wise, let alone that.

Besides, gotta save money for my "toy" at the same time.
Click to expand...

Haha, well what can I say. I think it's the best looking STi in at least a decade, and I hope you have fun regardless. :)


pj said:
I am currently car-less in Brooklyn but I have been thinking about getting one lately for errands/day trips/holiday trips to visit family.

My criteria are:
Wagon or SUV for trips with cargo and/or the dog.
$4000 max
Reliable
Cheap to insure

Anyone have experience with any of these, or recommend something I haven't considered?
Click to expand...

Subaru Outback Subaru Outback Subaru Outback
 
M

Malvingt2

Member
This morning around 5:30 am, I was on my way home from work[NY] and I saw a Dodge Stealth [91/92] on the road, it gave me chills.
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Malvingt2 said:
This morning around 5:30 am, I was on my way home from work[NY] and I saw a Dodge Stealth [91/92] on the road, it gave me chills.
Click to expand...

Was it a base model? Or an R/T TT? I think the R/T TT's are unicorns, even more rare than their Mitsubishi VR4 twin brother.
 
M

MilkBeard

Member
Found a really good method to make my car shine. I don't have the ability wash it at my house since I live in an apartment, so I often take it to this place called Brown Bear and do the self-wash. For the first few times I did it, it was decent but it didn't seem to stay shiny after a few days of driving with all the pollen and tree particles in the air. But after spending a little extra time washing it and applying the paint guard, I saw someone rubbing it down with a microfiber towel. I decided to get one and after using it, it shines like a boss, even until now. I think the paint guard spray needs to be wiped down and smoothed over the whole car to be effective.
I took my mom's car as well to do the same thing, and now the car shines like a mirror. Sweet. Feels nice to see the before and after.
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
MilkBeard said:
Found a really good method to make my car shine. I don't have the ability wash it at my house since I live in an apartment, so I often take it to this place called Brown Bear and do the self-wash. For the first few times I did it, it was decent but it didn't seem to stay shiny after a few days of driving with all the pollen and tree particles in the air. But after spending a little extra time washing it and applying the paint guard, I saw someone rubbing it down with a microfiber towel. I decided to get one and after using it, it shines like a boss, even until now. I think the paint guard spray needs to be wiped down and smoothed over the whole car to be effective.
I took my mom's car as well to do the same thing, and now the car shines like a mirror. Sweet. Feels nice to see the before and after.
Click to expand...

You'll get a SIGNIFICANTLY better result if you use a proper polishing pad that's made to spread product, instead of a microfiber cloth which is made to absorb. Effectively, what you're doing using a product like that with the MF towel is you're re-absorbing and picking up about 75% back on the towel. Where as with a terry cloth applicator pad, you're spreading it smoothly, allowing the coat and paint to absorb what it can, let it dry up, and then polish away the excess with a towel.
 
J

J-Rzez

Member
Damn, so i'm trying to figure out a couple issues with my car before I potentially get rid of it when the new one comes in. So here's my issue;

When the car gets up to operating temp the idle acts up like it's "cammed up". But it's not. So I just pulled the EGR and cleaned out all the carbon and tested it's seal and it's good. I pulled out the idle control and cleaned the caked on carbon out of that thing as well. Well, the car is still idling all goofy. None of the immediate lines are clogged or gunked up. Only thing I can think of is that the EGR solenoid is bad. Remember, it only happens when it's up to operating temp. When it's under any form of throttle there's no roughness, misses, nothing, it's 100% fine. Just at idle. No misfire codes as well. Only code to get thrown out now is that the cat is failing, but that's because there's no cat on the car lol.

Am I missing anything?
 
P

PseudoKirby

Banned
ohmai its N-bomb


Going to be getting my new exedy clutch kit in the mail this week for my 2.5RS, when I drop the transmission to put it and the lightweight flywheel its prolly going to be in the triple digits of degrees, and sadly I dont have a garage.


so how do you guys keep from heatstroke when working on your cars?
 
M

MilkBeard

Member
AlphaSnake said:
You'll get a SIGNIFICANTLY better result if you use a proper polishing pad that's made to spread product, instead of a microfiber cloth which is made to absorb. Effectively, what you're doing using a product like that with the MF towel is you're re-absorbing and picking up about 75% back on the towel. Where as with a terry cloth applicator pad, you're spreading it smoothly, allowing the coat and paint to absorb what it can, let it dry up, and then polish away the excess with a towel.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I'll pick a few of those up next time I hit the car wash.
 
lem0n

lem0n

Member
J-Rzez said:
Damn, so i'm trying to figure out a couple issues with my car before I potentially get rid of it when the new one comes in. So here's my issue;

When the car gets up to operating temp the idle acts up like it's "cammed up". But it's not. So I just pulled the EGR and cleaned out all the carbon and tested it's seal and it's good. I pulled out the idle control and cleaned the caked on carbon out of that thing as well. Well, the car is still idling all goofy. None of the immediate lines are clogged or gunked up. Only thing I can think of is that the EGR solenoid is bad. Remember, it only happens when it's up to operating temp. When it's under any form of throttle there's no roughness, misses, nothing, it's 100% fine. Just at idle. No misfire codes as well. Only code to get thrown out now is that the cat is failing, but that's because there's no cat on the car lol.

Am I missing anything?
Click to expand...
EGR is what I would have suggested. Usually the only time you will get issues and a CEL will NOT be thrown, is a fuel system issue. /shrug
 
J

J-Rzez

Member
Amputechture said:
EGR is what I would have suggested. Usually the only time you will get issues and a CEL will NOT be thrown, is a fuel system issue. /shrug
Click to expand...

Yeah, a while back before I cleared I had an EGR code thrown. But I cleared it and put some time and miles on the car and still haven't got the code since I cleaned the EGR thoroughly. If I do happen to get a code and it's EGR related, I'm going to have to guess that it's the solenoid that's the issue. When I tested the EGR after cleaning, there were no leaks in it, so it can't be the issue. Only suspect left would be the solenoid.

Also, I had a metallic rattle coming from the exhaust. Instantly I thought it was a broken baffle in the muffler, but here it was a heat shield by the turbo outlet that was loose and rattling, sending vibrations fully down the exhaust tip. Never experienced that before. Makes sense why it did that, just something I didn't think would be it off the bat.
 
M

MilkBeard

Member
J-Rzez said:
Yeah, a while back before I cleared I had an EGR code thrown. But I cleared it and put some time and miles on the car and still haven't got the code since I cleaned the EGR thoroughly. If I do happen to get a code and it's EGR related, I'm going to have to guess that it's the solenoid that's the issue. When I tested the EGR after cleaning, there were no leaks in it, so it can't be the issue. Only suspect left would be the solenoid.

Also, I had a metallic rattle coming from the exhaust. Instantly I thought it was a broken baffle in the muffler, but here it was a heat shield by the turbo outlet that was loose and rattling, sending vibrations fully down the exhaust tip. Never experienced that before. Makes sense why it did that, just something I didn't think would be it off the bat.
Click to expand...

I wanted to see what car you had, and if you are talking about the Evo, I can share my own experience. I used to have an Eclipse GSX that had the turbo'd 4g63 engine and it had some serious idle issues in later life. I didn't fix it entirely, but I replaced the fast-idle air valved which seemed to stop the revv-bouncing on warm up. Your idle problem is a little bit different, but when looking it up, there were a number of issues that might have been the cause: TPS sensor, fast-idle air valve, throttle body being dirty...possibly air leaks as well. Since you've modded yours it might be more complicated but this engine is known to have idle issues at high mileage...if you look around online you will probably find people talking about it.

EDIT: For example, here is a link:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/597679-evo-8-idle-problem-please-help.html

It's also recommended that you replace the IAC valve instead of just cleaning it.
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
J-Rzez said:
Damn, so i'm trying to figure out a couple issues with my car before I potentially get rid of it when the new one comes in. So here's my issue;

Am I missing anything?
Click to expand...

Check air filter, as well? Perhaps run some injector cleaner through your next tank, or seafoam that thing.


PseudoKirby said:
so how do you guys keep from heatstroke when working on your cars?
Click to expand...

...work on it during the cool months. ;o
 
T

Ty4on

Member
Granadier said:
Reviewing a 5 year old car? Wat?
Click to expand...

You must be new, he started off reviewing (going over everything, not really a review as he is very objective) random cars on the lot and eventually got popular doing that. If you know of a car made the last two decades that isn't super rare he probably has a video on it.

It's an odd type of videos, but it's nice when you really wanna look at a car in depth. I haven't watched the video, but it's probably the only place where you will in depth see what the in car storage looks like :p
 
W

whatsinaname

Member
At an automotive conference right now. Toyota is going all in with their FCVs. I guess they see it as their next big success after the Prius. Promising a 600+ km range and 4 minutes at a pump to fill up. Releasing April in Japan and in Summer in the US.
 
J

J-Rzez

Member
MilkBeard said:
I wanted to see what car you had, and if you are talking about the Evo, I can share my own experience. I used to have an Eclipse GSX that had the turbo'd 4g63 engine and it had some serious idle issues in later life. I didn't fix it entirely, but I replaced the fast-idle air valved which seemed to stop the revv-bouncing on warm up. Your idle problem is a little bit different, but when looking it up, there were a number of issues that might have been the cause: TPS sensor, fast-idle air valve, throttle body being dirty...possibly air leaks as well. Since you've modded yours it might be more complicated but this engine is known to have idle issues at high mileage...if you look around online you will probably find people talking about it.

EDIT: For example, here is a link:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/597679-evo-8-idle-problem-please-help.html

It's also recommended that you replace the IAC valve instead of just cleaning it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I might have to replace it. I was searching Evom before I came here today and saw all that. Considering that I cleaned out the EGR and there's no leaks to be found anywhere, I'm thinking it's the IAC. Tomorrow I'll pull it and see if I get those clicks when turning the car to on. It seems to be pretty wide spread, outside of hoses that popped off which is even more prevalent.

N-Bomb said:
Check air filter, as well? Perhaps run some injector cleaner through your next tank, or seafoam that thing.
Click to expand...

I run Lucas every 6 months in the car. Used the same stuff for a long time. Last time I did a tear down and check everything looked great. I was using Seafoam just last night on the EGR. :)

Air filter and BOV are fine.
 
A

asdad123

Member
Hey guys,

I had my oil changed in my car about 3 weeks ago, and ever since then, I noticed a tiny oil drip coming from the bottom of my car. At first I thought they just spilled some oil while pouring it in and it was just residual so I wiped it off and let it be. However, some weeks after, I noticed the oil again. Its not much, but it is starting to worry me. It could very well still be residual as it is still very clear (I checked the engine oil and it is brown in color already), but Im just wondering if anyone has an idea of what it could be. I have wiped it off of the silver part near the bolt on the left side of the picture. I can't find any oil elsewhere. I checked under the hood, and all under the car and the silver part is the only place I wiped the clear oil off of. Can it still be residual oil that was spilled or a worse problem?



2014 Grand Cherokee
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Make sure the oil filter is securely torqued, and the drain bolt is too. They have a torque application for both.
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
asdad123 said:
Hey guys,

I had my oil changed in my car about 3 weeks ago, and ever since then, I noticed a tiny oil drip coming from the bottom of my car.

2014 Grand Cherokee
Click to expand...


So is it around the drain bolt that it was leaking? Make sure you use a new crush washer when putting the bolt back in.

I will re-use mine up to once if I've forgotten to get a new one (I just flip it around), but that's really a bad habit.


Speaking of cars...

Here's a little something y'all can do with your cars if they are equipped with a MAF sensor.

Things get DIRTY, even behind an air filter:
jkgKKJtl.png



So grab a can of electrical contact cleaner and a q-tip, and go to town on it. But carefully. That little bulb is delicate.

Afterwards, you get this:
svTJUaMl.png


This little thing measures the air flow through the intake, and that bulb is a 'hot wire'. When it gets gunked up, it won't operate as efficiently as it should, so a quick clean can fix that up easily, and clear up/reduce a variety of idle/stall/hesitation/etc problems.
 
G

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Please don't recommend people cleaning their MAF's with qtips. That's one of the best ways to damage your sensor.
 
N

N-Bomb

Member
Granadier said:
Please don't recommend people cleaning their MAF's with qtips. That's one of the best ways to damage your sensor.
Click to expand...

It's completely safe as long as you aren't a butterfingers with a ham fist. You just have to remember to put very little to no pressure on it, simply brush lightly.
 
D

David Incorporated Esq.

Member
asdad123 said:
Hey guys,

I had my oil changed in my car about 3 weeks ago, and ever since then, I noticed a tiny oil drip coming from the bottom of my car. At first I thought they just spilled some oil while pouring it in and it was just residual so I wiped it off and let it be. However, some weeks after, I noticed the oil again. Its not much, but it is starting to worry me. It could very well still be residual as it is still very clear (I checked the engine oil and it is brown in color already), but Im just wondering if anyone has an idea of what it could be. I have wiped it off of the silver part near the bolt on the left side of the picture. I can't find any oil elsewhere. I checked under the hood, and all under the car and the silver part is the only place I wiped the clear oil off of. Can it still be residual oil that was spilled or a worse problem?



2014 Grand Cherokee
Click to expand...

Looks like that part is ahead of the drain, so if it's leaking anywhere not serious it'd be from the oil filter, check there. I'm guessing that the filter is towards the front of the car, no idea if that's actually the case.
 
G

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
asdad123 said:
Hey guys,

I had my oil changed in my car about 3 weeks ago, and ever since then, I noticed a tiny oil drip coming from the bottom of my car. At first I thought they just spilled some oil while pouring it in and it was just residual so I wiped it off and let it be. However, some weeks after, I noticed the oil again. Its not much, but it is starting to worry me. It could very well still be residual as it is still very clear (I checked the engine oil and it is brown in color already), but Im just wondering if anyone has an idea of what it could be. I have wiped it off of the silver part near the bolt on the left side of the picture. I can't find any oil elsewhere. I checked under the hood, and all under the car and the silver part is the only place I wiped the clear oil off of. Can it still be residual oil that was spilled or a worse problem?



2014 Grand Cherokee
Click to expand...

Since you mentioned that the oil that's dripping is clear/new, my guess is that there is a pocket of spilled oil somewhere around your filter or the fill port. A lot of times the tech will spill some oil while filling the car.

Take a flashlight and look down in your engine compartment. Look around the fill port and check around your oil filter. You'll probably find a small pool of new oil sitting somewhere.
 
RedAssedApe

RedAssedApe

Banned
has anyone had the chance to check out the tlx yet? was wondering if anyone has seen the black copper and espresso interior. thinking this will be my next car.

status of my current car due to ucla flood...

1909450_10152247738968016_571594497832711462_o.jpg
Click to expand...
 
G

Giant Robot

Member
Some pics from my day at Laguna Seca a few weeks ago. Perfect weather, great run groups, and an amazing experience. I've been to this track quite a number of times to watch events, but am always taken away by how massive the track is. If anyone ever has a chance to visit or even do a track day there then DO IT.

There were a number of surprises that I did NOT expect about the track itself:

5bSXPec.jpg


Turn 1 - Fucking fast blind uphill with a slight left turn. I am hitting just about 100mph on the straight leading up to this.

Turn 2 - I didn't realize how much banked this hairpin was. Double apex here and is quite difficult to get right.

Turn 5 - Another banked turn. It's also a brutal climb for underpowered cars.

Turn 6 - It's not just a simple left turn. Theres a slight kink and off cambered to set up for the Rahal Straight.

Turn 7 - Braking zone for the famous Corkscrew. All you see is the sky! You will have climbed about 5 stories up to this point

The Corkscrew/Turn 8a & 8b - This is a ridiculous 3 story drop, almost like a roller coast ride. Since you really can't see the road you gotta aim for the tree to hit the apex.

Turn 9 - This is insanely more banked than I anticipated. I believe this is the hardest turn on the track because of how much speed you're carrying and depending on what time of the day it is, you can get blinded by the sun.

Some pics my friend took to show the scale of the track.

Turn 3-4
wQaRfxU.jpg


Straight from 4-5
FO1czlt.jpg


8wktLBd.jpg


Straight 5-6 hill climb
5r6hAKI.jpg


Corkscrew. Hard to get a shot here unless you have press/photo pass. But this is just HALF of whats shown as the gutter/blue NSX is the apex.
sAcvzOB.jpg


Straight from 10-11
FpAQoDg.jpg


Some of me driving
NyU682X.jpg


T0DyNri.jpg


and then this happened at the Corkscrew…
lXPR9lG.jpg
 
A

AlphaSnake

...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
henhowc said:
has anyone had the chance to check out the tlx yet? was wondering if anyone has seen the black copper and espresso interior. thinking this will be my next car.

status of my current car due to ucla flood...
Click to expand...

Looks about the same as what my mom's Volvo looked like after Hurricane Sandy swept the car up into the ocean and spit it back out.

Looks like you had a pretty new Honda Accord to lose it so quick?
 
A

AlphaTwo00

Member
henhowc said:
has anyone had the chance to check out the tlx yet? was wondering if anyone has seen the black copper and espresso interior. thinking this will be my next car.

status of my current car due to ucla flood...
Click to expand...
God damn the accord coupe interior. I feel your pain. It's like looking at my interior but god damn.
 
D

David Incorporated Esq.

Member
Giant Robot said:
Some pics from my day at Laguna Seca a few weeks ago. Perfect weather, great run groups, and an amazing experience. I've been to this track quite a number of times to watch events, but am always taken away by how massive the track is. If anyone ever has a chance to visit or even do a track day there then DO IT.

There were a number of surprises that I did NOT expect about the track itself:
Click to expand...

Dude this is awesome, thanks!
 
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