whatsinaname
Member
But if you don't have a turbo, you end up with a price/emissions design compromise like the engine in the BRZ. Most customers seem to prefer the lag + high torque to a quicker throttle response + lower torque.
Automotive Discussion Thread | OT2 | Zero to pointless fighting faster than a GT86
- Thread starter AlphaSnake
- Start date
But if you don't have a turbo, you end up with a price/emissions design compromise like the engine in the BRZ. Most customers seem to prefer the lag + high torque to a quicker throttle response + lower torque.
MisterNoisy
Member
If you're interested in the GenCoupe, get the 3.8. Way more linear power delivery, and it sounds fantastic. Shifter is a bit ropy regardless of the engine, though. I had a '11 Track for a few years, and it was a hoot to drive, even if you had to rev it to get to the 'real' power. My example was nearly flawless in terms of reliability over the time I had it - only had to do routine maintenance/fluids and one trip to the dealer for an ECU reflash that corrected a throttle position sensor that was throwing it into limp mode intermittently.
DivineRage002
Member
I have a 3.8, so I can't talk about the engine much, but reliability shouldn't be an issue, you have a 5 year warranty straight off the bat.
If you live in a place that gets an actual winter, I have one complaint, and it's that the windows have no upper frame, and it will freeze the window in place in winter. It's not terrible by any means, but it just feels wrong.
The car is also comfortable at winter driving, although in HEAVY snow I wouldn't take it past 45mph, at that point it gets scary. Put in some good winter tires and take off traction control and low-speed corners become drift season. Best drift fun I've had, the car communicates every bit of slip you get and you know EXACTLY what's going on during the slide. Haven't spun it once.
If you live in a warm place, great car, no complaints at all.
What are anyone's thoughts on the Gla45 amg from mercedes was looking at the cla but for in around the same price I think I would rather go with the gla
Edit: fuck that, just called the local dealer to look into pricing out the door real quick, quoting at just below 70k CAD out the door...I think I'll stick with the sti in the spring..
Edit: fuck that, just called the local dealer to look into pricing out the door real quick, quoting at just below 70k CAD out the door...I think I'll stick with the sti in the spring..
RukusProvider
Banned
2015 z06s just arrived at a dealer in Houston. Already sold a few . The temptation ;__;
And then I come back down and realize I only have a year and change left on my note. Can't wait for that day to get here .
Go pick it up and bring it to Sears Point on friday. Come on Smokey, I'll teach you to drive a fuckin stick there!
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
2015 z06s just arrived at a dealer in Houston. Already sold a few . The temptation ;__;
And then I come back down and realize I only have a year and change left on my note
Once you pay off your car, you're going to start car hunting hard. Trust me, breh. I'm bad about this kind of stuff. As soon as I get close to paying off a car I'm already thinking of what to get next. Sometimes I'm thinking of what's next 2 years ahead of time. I keep saying to myself the M56S I'll keep for a long time. But what is that for me exactly? 3-4 years?
Get the Z06 if you can afford it. Don't be a Dwight. You only live once.
gets 80k car
can't drive it
lol
i dunno man
sometimes i sit and day dream at work about what i can do with this monthly payment i'm dumping into my car. so much...stuff could be done
ps - you're also a god damn bad influence lol
More SLI and more 4K.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
With cars, I'm a horrible influence. But I'll never steer anyone wrong no matter the budget.
godofcookery
Member
damn, yea, this really makes me want to try the 3.8. Honestly, if it were in my spending ballpark, I really would too. But the 2.0t R-Spec was so cheap with all the rebates and incentives they are offering right now (specially since they phased that version of the gencoupe out) it was a tempting buy. And sadly, most other things that match the options/ power of the 2.0t R-spec on paper, are north of what I want to spend on a car.
Maybe someone good suggest something good in the 20k-26k range that might be good? 2dr is preferred, 4dr is good too though, carrying space for a small suitcase + backpack at least, MT. I like "hot hatches" and sport coupes in general.
I have started looking at CPO cars though. There are a couple Mazdaspeed3s MY2013 in my area w/ sub 10K odo that look interesting. Maybe that's something I could look into getting.
MemoryHumanity
Member
Picked this up today. I'm in love.
BrokenEchelon
Banned
Grats! I hear they're lots of fun.
DivineRage002
Member
You could have a look at the FRS/BRZ, but they are severely underpowered compared to the gen. Maybe a WRX?
Edit: Mustang/Camaro/Challenger?
drove a VW Up! for the first time today. what a fun little car. direct light steering and you have to play a lot with the engine and gears to get absolutely anything out of it lol.
not sure I would buy one though. it's more expensive than a Hyundai i10 for example and believe it or not, a car built in 2012 (or 13) doesn't have a switch for the passenger side window. someone wanted to ask me something and I had to lean over to open the window, smh. though I have read somwhere that they now include it but still, a Hyundai i10 sounds like a better proposition.
but it's fun to drive.
not sure I would buy one though. it's more expensive than a Hyundai i10 for example and believe it or not, a car built in 2012 (or 13) doesn't have a switch for the passenger side window. someone wanted to ask me something and I had to lean over to open the window, smh. though I have read somwhere that they now include it but still, a Hyundai i10 sounds like a better proposition.
but it's fun to drive.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
My vote: 370Z or G37. The G37 has 2 extra seats, which are surprisingly decent, and a larger trunk. But it'll be slightly slower than the 370Z, though still performs great and handles very well. The two cars are otherwise mechanically identical. The clutch is nice and tight, but it can be a bit tricky for a newer driver (not as much slip compared to other cars). And the gearbox has fantastic throws, nice click into every gear, great shifter and shifter height.
RukusProvider
Banned
Hate fog....what was supposed to be a fun end of the year trackday at Sears Point/Sonoma raceway was a mess due to heavy fog.
Sat around for 2 sessions and came home. Thankfully I was planning to sign up at the track so only thing wasted was fuel and sleep. Still pretty pissed though...
Sat around for 2 sessions and came home. Thankfully I was planning to sign up at the track so only thing wasted was fuel and sleep. Still pretty pissed though...
Great car. Drove it a football stadium during a "Ford Experience" event. I have never driven a FWD car that was so eager to turn in.
godofcookery
Member
would you go with CPO?
MisterNoisy
Member
Congratulations! Slick little car, to be sure.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Yes. These cars are built rock solid - extremely reliable, you can beat the hell out of these cars and the motors love it. VQ37s are amazing engines. Only thing you need to check for are the clutch and slave cylinder. Make sure the clutch feels good, and that the fluid is the right color and there's plenty of it in the container. Take a nice test drive, get a solid feel for the clutch, make sure there's no play in it.
If you get a Z, get a 2011+ they come with oil coolers so you can run them hard and they won't pull power back, the oil temps will stay around the 200 area. I had to have an oil cooler fitted to my 2010 and it made an enormous difference.
My advice is definitely go for a 2011+ model of either car, you'll get the most reliability, newest updates, etc. Also, because you're buying used, don't skimp out on the technology package of either car. The Bose and Navigation are well worth it, the user interface is fantastic, easy to use, and it makes the interior of the Z look especially beautiful because it gives it a very complete look instead of the drab-looking base model with the cubby.
godofcookery
Member
awesome, thanks so much for the great advice! though sadly, at least on autotrader, there are none within 300miles of where I live.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Wow. Where do you live if I may ask?
godofcookery
Member
Lower Alabama. :
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
I'm shocked you're not getting results in the Atlanta region. Or in Florida.
I think I'd lean to the i10. Both it and the Up (and it's Seat and Skoda siblings) are great little city cars.
godofcookery
Member
well, to be fair, I am specifically looking 2011+ Certified Pre-Owned. The CPO is what is really reducing the results. If I expanded it, I'd get many more results.
I just like having a warranty for a while.
Congrats! I've had a Fiesta SE for the last week as a rental and it's been surprisingly fun with 112 hp and 120 tq. I'm sure the ST is a riot.
AutoGAF is an easy target because we're so much cooler than the other Communities in GAF.
Got my car back today! That took 68 days...
My mechanic talked insurance down to $300 instead of the $495 deductible. He pushed for having the whole thing waived but couldn't get them to do it.
- "new" 81,000 mile engine with all new seals and gaskets and a wiring harness, installed rebuilt vanos from DR. Vanos, verified that the engine had the performance cams indicative of a ZHP packaged car
- replaced diff fluid, tranny fluid, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil, all filters, spark plugs, belts
- new clutch and clutch accessories
- installed new crankcase ventilation system parts
- new fog lights
- removed the seats and carpet, steam cleaned carpet, replaced backing layer
Think that's everything...
Clutch feels buttery smooth, the VANOS rattle is gone, and it feels just how it did.
Thank fuck that is over for now...
My mechanic talked insurance down to $300 instead of the $495 deductible. He pushed for having the whole thing waived but couldn't get them to do it.
- "new" 81,000 mile engine with all new seals and gaskets and a wiring harness, installed rebuilt vanos from DR. Vanos, verified that the engine had the performance cams indicative of a ZHP packaged car
- replaced diff fluid, tranny fluid, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil, all filters, spark plugs, belts
- new clutch and clutch accessories
- installed new crankcase ventilation system parts
- new fog lights
- removed the seats and carpet, steam cleaned carpet, replaced backing layer
Think that's everything...
Clutch feels buttery smooth, the VANOS rattle is gone, and it feels just how it did.
Thank fuck that is over for now...
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Nissan and Infiniti doesn't CPO their cars, they don't have a CPO program. Their warranties on powertrains are already long enough at 5 years/60K. Also, don't forget you're actually PAYING for that CPO because it costs the dealership about $1800 to certify the car and then they inject $2600 into the cost of the car once you buy so they can make money. They use CPO as a selling tool, and there are tons of exclusions. For example, BMW doesn't cover water pumps...which they refused to do on my 335 Coupe. Said it was going to be $1500. So I told them to eat a dick and traded the car in for a new Jaguar. Audi doesn't cover any tech issues, don't even bother asking why. All of these dealerships I later found out have their own guidelines on what they'll cover, the CPO program is NOT a corporate honored program. It's a dealer-based program.
Euro makes have CPOs because once their 4 year warranties run out, you're screwed on anything except the seatbelt. Nissan is 3/36K full coverage and 5/60K on powertrain. But trust me, you'll likely never need to use it. But by all means, if you're looking for additional warranty a Nissan or Infiniti dealership will sell you one. But I can assure you, they're a waste of money.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
He got banned for saying he uses racial jokes as a means of figuring out if he can be friends with someone or not. So if someone didn't like a racially themed joke, to him it was an easy way of weeding out a friend.
Weird statement to make, tbh.
GoldenEye 007
Member
Anyone have experience changing wheels on a car? I actually wouldn't increase size, but instead keep at 16". The idea would be just to ditch my steel wheels then look at TireRack for a non-obnoxious, but upgraded alloy set.
Really just for aesthetics and nothing more.
Edit: It's for a 2014 Mazda3. Mazda has a couple of options and one I would consider if not for the $300 per wheel price.
Really just for aesthetics and nothing more.
Edit: It's for a 2014 Mazda3. Mazda has a couple of options and one I would consider if not for the $300 per wheel price.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Sure...but what exactly is your question?
GoldenEye 007
Member
I guess any experience with it? Is it recommended in general? Does it generally affect any manufacturer warranties?
While aesthetics are the major factor, are there any other benefits? Like reduced weight, etc.? Is it worth it in general?
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
It has absolutely no bearing on your warranty. If it did, nobody would be doing it and it wouldn't be such an enormous market.
Most wheels will generally be lighter than steel wheels, so yes, reduced weight. And reduced weight = power. Rule of thumb, every pound you save from a driven wheel, is a theoretical 7-10lbs you've removed from your car's weight. If you bought a wheel that weighs 5lbs lighter than your stock steel wheel, you'll feel the equivalent gain of a small passenger leaving the car.
I've gotten lightweight wheels and tires where I dropped a combined weight of 15lbs each...and you felt a nice difference in how brisk the car picks up from a slower speed.
GoldenEye 007
Member
Thanks. Yeah, I've heard similar things about the dramatic weight difference - I guess sprung vs. unsprung weight? So that's good to see it confirmed.
It seems like finding steel wheel weight is really hard to find, but seems like it is around 22-24lbs for 16"? TireRack has a lot in the $120 range that are anywhere from 15-18lbs. So something to save for once it is time to get a new set of tires.
Well guys..... I got my new car yesterday.. Hated it shopping around for a car the first time but this time around was better and I went to a better dealer and very helpful.
I got a 2011 Toyota RAV4 Limited 30k miles for a good deal... I am in love. I almost got the Subaru XV but the Toyota dealer deal was way better than the Subaru one.
I got a 2011 Toyota RAV4 Limited 30k miles for a good deal... I am in love. I almost got the Subaru XV but the Toyota dealer deal was way better than the Subaru one.
congrats malvingt2! post pics.
man I'm loving the new Hyundai i20:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nnBuOcmcN4
looks fabulous. never thought I would like Hyundais.
man I'm loving the new Hyundai i20:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nnBuOcmcN4
looks fabulous. never thought I would like Hyundais.
David Incorporated Esq.
Member
Well there's a couple things about the weight of wheels. One of them is the unsprung weight, dynamically the bigger the ratio between the sprung and unsprung weights the more easily the motions of the sprung weight can be controlled--the suspension has less work to do controlling the inertia of the wheels moving around and can focus on controlling the body. The other thing is that heavier wheels have more rotational inertia, so the engine, in addition to accelerating the vehicle linearly, has to accelerate the wheels in rotation--this is where you'll feel the impact on the car's acceleration.
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Just you. The Camry up until now was the same car since 2006, with the only difference being some healdight and taillight revisions.
The Corolla was just as bad.
Hmm
What's difference now?
RIP my 04 corolla
Is Lexus still building the ES off the Camry platform? Haven't kept up with them at all .
AlphaSnake
...and that, kids, was the first time I sucked a dick for crack
Camry and Corolla have totally different interiors and sheet metal all around the car for the first time in nearly a decade. The Corolla's last true redesign was 2006. Everything since has been bullshit face lifts.
Same goes for the Camry. Interesting fact, while the 2015 Camry is all new, it actually still shares the same roof panel as the older cars. It's built on a modified chassis as the outgoing car to save costs, but so that Toyota could focus more on re-engineering it, adding more money into a better interior and better exterior lines.
And the Lexus ES is now based on the Avalon platform, which itself is loosely based on the Camry platform to begin with, but modified.
Darth Pinche
Member
Congratulations! I had that car, a 2010 with the sports appearance package (no tire on the back door and run flats) We now have a newer 2013 and while it is better in many respects (quieter, more power, more efficient, better stereo) it lacks the character that the old Rav4 had. I had more fun driving your model of Rav. It just felt more useable and fun, while the new one is bland overall.
Thanks and I will soon..
Thanks, I got the Limited edition... looks so damn cool. and my brother and I were talking about it. He hates the new box of the Rav4 with passion and doesn't like the feel when he drove one. Yet to drive the new model.
I've seen the expression "pre-hearse" applied to them before. Seems to be primarily directed at the Buick LeSabre demographic.
Really, it's just their full size entry, to compete with the Impala and Taurus, mainly.