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Bicycle age

Lorcain

Member
I only fell twice in fifteen years, both times were in the adjustment phase. Just plain forgot.
I was coming back from a long summer ride a few years ago feeling good about the workout and enjoying the beautiful weather. A lot of my neighbors were in their front yards hanging out or playing with their kids. I rode up my suburban street, circled around the cul-de-sac, and then pedaled up my sloped driveway.

When I came to a stop, I forgot I had clipless pedals. I did a spastic leg jerk, and then tipped over and crashed in my driveway. My bike was a little dinged, as were my hip and elbow, but it was my ego that took it the worst. My neighbors enjoyed the slow fall.

I don't forget anymore :)
 

robox

Member
i'm paranoid about practicing track stands with clip ins. always gotta be ready to bail at anytime

that and toe overlap
 
Ok, so I went full jimmy and bought roadie shoes and pedals (SPD-SL). Can't wait to try them out tomorrow.

Any tips on aligning the cleats? The shapes of the cleat components are so complex that small differences in position become invisible.

This is a good start: http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/fitness/bike-fit/cleats-explained-how-to-set-them-up-correctly-23575

Some people also recommend just sitting on a chair, or even the bike, and letting your feet hang naturally to get an idea on position. If the inside of the knee area is hurting the cleats should go outward and vice versa. The only thing I can recommend is don't fight the cleat and your foot. If your foot wants to go heel in, let it. Just a fair bit of warning: the difference in feel with brand new cleats and worn ones is night & day. I was having all sorts of muscle triggering issues and I finally took a look at my cleats. They were pretty worn and putting new ones made a world of a difference.

If you want optimal float then go with Speedplays. I've read a few different forums where people with some knee issues switched to Speedplays and things went away.

What I will recommend is once you find the sweet spot outline the cleat with a permanent marker. This way if you ever need to take them or when you inevitably replace them you're not starting at zero. You'll have a better idea of where they should be positioned and then you can just tweak.
 
Rode for an hour, cleat positioning felt ok but I guess that's too short a time for problems to announce themselves. Sprinting was definitely easier than before, but I wonder if that's more due to the shoes being stiff.

Also feels like my saddle is lower than before, probably because the pedaling platform is marginally higher now.
 
If you don't notice any pressure difference when sitting or standing then that's good. After I replaced my cleats they felt fine sitting, but when I stood up my foot rocked inwards. I had to move the cleat outwards a bit to compensate.
 
Speaking of cleats, I've started seeing these weird calluses on the middle of my feet right above where the cleat rests. I can't say they're related to my bike shoes, but I didn't have these before I started riding so much. Anyone with a similar experience? Do I need slightly smaller shoes, maybe?
 
Speaking of cleats, I've started seeing these weird calluses on the middle of my feet right above where the cleat rests. I can't say they're related to my bike shoes, but I didn't have these before I started riding so much. Anyone with a similar experience? Do I need slightly smaller shoes, maybe?

Haven't had that issue, but it could be sizing. The first pair of shoes I bought I sized how I would running shoes and it was problematic. You're better off getting them snug so your foot isn't sliding around so much.
 
Oh yeah, almost forgot: The family and I were out enjoying the weather this weekend on our bikes. At one point, we were at a street fair type of thing and the road was congested. They stayed on the road and were coasting but I thought I could make better time in the park on the grass. I was going fairly quickly too, about 12-13 mph and was almost out of the park.

Before I continue, let it be known that I was wearing sunglasses and wasn't looking too far in front of me because I wanted to be ready for any sudden holes or ditches in the grass.

Anyway, so I was flying along, staring at the ground, basically, when I happen to look up a little and notice that there is a yellow nylon roap (roughly this size) in the air in front of me, roughly waist-high.

I hit it at speed and it was like I was in a cartoon - I kept moving forward until it reached it's tightest and then it literally threw me and my bike backwards and down to the ground. That hurt, but it was funny enough that I was laughing before I hit the ground. I stand up, dust everything off, and I hear in the distance "move, ra ra ra blah blah!" (too far away to make any sense of the words, really) so I just wave and start to keep going when I notice another rope. I pick the bike up, go over the fence instead, and get on the road.

My wife said she noticed I was ahead of her but then I just "disappeared". lol
 

JoseDFrog

Banned
Hello Bicycle-GAF, I'm looking to join your ranks. I bought a Giant Defy 5 from my local bicycle shop, I hope I made a good decision for a starter road bike. While ordering the bike, the shop owner asked me about getting accessories (some necessary like lights and bell) and offered 25% Giant accessories with the purchase. I would like help in picking out what I need. This is the list of things I think I need:

  • bag (under saddle will probably work)
  • lights (front and back)
  • bell
  • phone holder (iPhone 6+)
  • chain and lock
  • something to fix flats while on the road
  • air pump

Am I missing something on this list and also, what would be your recommendations.

Thanks!
 
I keep a CO2 cart / pump with a tube and a couple of other bits (like a superpatch and tyre levers)in a Topeak Saddle bag. If you plan on leaving your bike anywhere for long I'd invest in a decent D lock rather than a chain / lock. You're talking about serious weight before you get any sort of decent protection with a chain.
 

JoseDFrog

Banned
I'd add a multitool with chain tool to the list, and a bottle cage.

Also, how are you prepared on the clothing front?

I don't have clothes yet. It's a big money investment so I want to get the necessary stuff so I don't get stranded first and I can legally ride in Jersey. I'm going to roll with shorts and some under armor shirts for now.

Any recommendation for individual items on the list? I can opt to get discount on Giant's MSRP prices, but I also have Amazon Prime.
 
I don't have clothes yet. It's a big money investment so I want to get the necessary stuff so I don't get stranded first and I can legally ride in Jersey. I'm going to roll with shorts and some under armor shirts for now.

Any recommendation for individual items on the list? I can opt to get discount on Giant's MSRP prices, but I also have Amazon Prime.

Where in Jersey?

Multi-tool is good, but you don't need too much beyond some alan keys, tyre levers and a co2/pump. Anything beyond that and chances are you're really screwed.

As for clothing at a minimum buy some bibs. I would advocate just getting something fairly affordable (Nashbar or sale items at Castelli or anyhwere else), then saving up for nicer stuff. I've been buying two pairs of bibs each year over my time riding so I can have enough for the days I ride. I'm currently not riding with gloves, but they're a good idea to get for newer riders.
 

JoseDFrog

Banned
Where in Jersey?

Multi-tool is good, but you don't need too much beyond some alan keys, tyre levers and a co2/pump. Anything beyond that and chances are you're really screwed.

As for clothing at a minimum buy some bibs. I would advocate just getting something fairly affordable (Nashbar or sale items at Castelli or anyhwere else), then saving up for nicer stuff. I've been buying two pairs of bibs each year over my time riding so I can have enough for the days I ride. I'm currently not riding with gloves, but they're a good idea to get for newer riders.

I'm in Union City, Hudson County.
 
I don't have clothes yet. It's a big money investment so I want to get the necessary stuff so I don't get stranded first and I can legally ride in Jersey. I'm going to roll with shorts and some under armor shirts for now.

Any recommendation for individual items on the list? I can opt to get discount on Giant's MSRP prices, but I also have Amazon Prime.

I'll second the call for padded bib shorts, they're really nice to have. No chafing and no plumber's cleavage.

After that, gloves and a jersey with back pockets. Even cheap stuff can be pretty good these days.
 

kottila

Member
Haven't had that issue, but it could be sizing. The first pair of shoes I bought I sized how I would running shoes and it was problematic. You're better off getting them snug so your foot isn't sliding around so much.

A former pro advised me on my shoes and he said that going snug was bad. Your feet will numb, you'll be colder without the possibility to move your toes and you can't fit warm socks when it's cold
I can fit thick wool socks in mine and that's a godsend when it's cold (always)
 
A former pro advised me on my shoes and he said that going snug was bad. Your feet will numb, you'll be colder without the possibility to move your toes and you can't fit warm socks when it's cold
I can fit thick wool socks in mine and that's a godsend when it's cold (always)

I don't mean super tight, but just not enough room to allow them to move around. I had issues with my toes slamming into the front of my shoe. Some people actually buy winter and summer shoes with winters being a size bigger so they can wear thicker socks.
 
Are clip-less really that much better than traditional toe clips/cages? Given all this conversation about setup and configuration -not to mention the terrible shoes - I find it hard to argue that clip-less are the superior choice. Though, I say this as probably the only toe clip user in this thread. I suppose for mtn bikes I could see it, but on the road, idk.. Educate me bike-gaf.
 
There is no beating the efficiency that clip-in bring. Plus once mastered they can be easier to get out of than clips and straps.

For mountain biking I used to use clipless, but now have gone to aggressive platform and shoes with a grippy sole and find it is a good balance between grip and manueverability.
 

HTupolev

Member
Are clip-less really that much better than traditional toe clips/cages?
The disadvantage is that they require cleated shoes.

The advantage is that they're much easier to clip in and out of.

As far as cycling performance goes, there's really not going to be a lot of difference. (And that's sort of true even with platforms, although the way the bike controls can be significantly changed in that case.)
 
Straps / cages seem suicidal anywhere that isn't the track. Really struggling to see what possible advantage they would give, unless it came down to being what you were used to.
 
The disadvantage is that they require cleated shoes.

The advantage is that they're much easier to clip in and out of.

As far as cycling performance goes, there's really not going to be a lot of difference. (And that's sort of true even with platforms, although the way the bike controls can be significantly changed in that case.)

Straps / cages seem suicidal anywhere that isn't the track. Really struggling to see what possible advantage they would give, unless it came down to being what you were used to.

I don't find cages too difficult to get out of, and I make mine pretty damn tight - and ride in city traffic. As far as advantages, I like the option of wearing different shoes when I go riding as I use my bike to commute a lot. Also, the thought of having to bring an extra pair of shoes with me sounds awful. I am not going to lie though, I took a few spills in the "getting used to it stage" , but it has been mostly smooth sailing after the first week or so. That said, some shoes are much easier to get out of than others. Cap toe dress shoes, or gym shoes cant be problematic because they like to get stuck. But chuck taylors', or brogues/oxfords/dress shoes are pretty smooth in and out. Idk, I suppose - like most things - it all comes down to preference. I will never go back to just platform pedals though.
 

robox

Member
Straps / cages seem suicidal anywhere that isn't the track. Really struggling to see what possible advantage they would give, unless it came down to being what you were used to.

wait wat

i find toe cages way easier to get out of vs clip-ins. pulling foot back feels more natural to me than twist of the ankle. and i went with clip-ins before i got my first set of toe cages and straps. but i'm with leroy: being able to wear normal shoes and not having to carry a change is glorious
 
Yeah, I guess it makes sense if you don't want to have to ride in / carry specific shoes. I've never seen anyone get their feet out of them when crashing though, they've always stayed attached to the bike. I guess the people I've seen crashing could just be shit / locked in too tight.
 

Lorcain

Member
For mixed terrain riding, and riding on trails, I like regular flat pedals. I've also used SPD clipless with a mountain bike shoe. Those are easier for me to use than the standard road bike 3 hole clipless pedal and shoe.

The other thing I like about SPD pedals is that the shoes can look almost like normal shoes, and can be used for walking around normally when not on the bike.

I'd like to try out hybrid flat/spd pedals too. That might offer better flexibility. When I'm using flat pedals, I do miss having that upward pull.
 
It's only really of use for technical climbs rather than standard cycling. In reality, for a more efficient pedal stroke, what you're actually trying to do is unweight the pedal rather than pull up on it. Pulling up is actually a negative, bio-mechanically speaking.
 

Mascot

Member
It's only really of use for technical climbs rather than standard cycling. In reality, for a more efficient pedal stroke, what you're actually trying to do is unweight the pedal rather than pull up on it. Pulling up is actually a negative, bio-mechanically speaking.

Don't start this propaganda again..! :p
 
Unrelated, it seems I've obliterated the drivetrain on my training bike. Every pedal stroke last night resulted in a massive clanking noise, so I stripped it down...

Chain - Stretched past the large indicator on the chain checker.
Chainrings - Sharktoothed in places.
Bottom Bracket - At least a couple of mm of play, and massively grindy.

Oops.
 
Phew. I don't think I've posted in about 5 months. Just been a crazy beginning of year and haven't had much time to browse or post at GAF :( I think the last time I posted in the thread I was complaining/asking for advice on new speedplay pedals. Well, took me a few days and a visit to the LBS but I was finally able to reach the point where I could clip in effortlessly. Although I have to admit the first few days I was questioning whether I should just go back to the shimanos...

Fear not, though, I haven't stopped riding. Back in January I signed up with Trainer Road and set my trainer to its hardest setting (mountain) and man, its true what they say about Trainer Road. I've been doing their training plans and am currently in a build phase right now and it's just really cool to be able to see your progress over time in such tangible measures. At first, I was simply going off their virtual power but in April I finally caved and purchased a powermeter.

Ended up getting a PowerMax powermeter and what a revelation it has been. I think the biggest surprise in now having ridden about 3 months with the powermeter is that I was actually probably never really doing "recovery" rides after hard efforts. Probably explains my extreme fatigue and weight loss last summer/fall. It's so damn hot here that simply going off your HR meter is not useful, so imagine my surprise when I go out for a recovery ride with the power meter for the first time and looking down only to realize that I'm going too hard. Basically, if you supposed to be going slow, and you think you are going slow or easy, go slower and easier.

the TR program has also induced some incredible improvements in my breathing/lung capacity. as most of u are aware of, i underwent a bilateral lung transplant a few years back so my breathing levels are constantly checked. since late december and when i started TR, my breathing levels, whether FEV1 or total lung capacity, have greatly increased. even my doctors over at Duke have remarked on the improvements and besides the obvious goal of wanting to increase ones FTP, seeing those breathing numbers increase each successive appointment is reason enough to suffer...

speaking of suffer...sufferest. Anyone do em? Perfect for intervals and if you're even slightly out of shape, hating life and your bike. I'm also on Zwift, which looks to be promising, but right now can be pretty boring until they incorporate workouts.

Anyway, happy riding and Vamos Contador! Hope he toys with the doped up Astana train again in the TdF.
 
speaking of suffer...sufferest. Anyone do em? Perfect for intervals and if you're even slightly out of shape, hating life and your bike.

I'm a Knight of Sufferlandria. I did 10 of them in a row. ;)

Really good to hear that you've got your mojo back. I'm quite jealous as I'm currently struggling with a niggling knee injury (ironically caused by doing the Knight of Sufferlandria challenge).
 
I'm a Knight of Sufferlandria. I did 10 of them in a row. ;)

Really good to hear that you've got your mojo back. I'm quite jealous as I'm currently struggling with a niggling knee injury (ironically caused by doing the Knight of Sufferlandria challenge).

Oh wow, you are one of those?? I cant even fathom, that's hardcore man. I think the most I've done in a row is 3, and even those were separated by 24 hours of chocolate milk and pasta.

i think rule #1 suffices..

Please see a doctor. You’re not right and are in desperate need of help.

Hope you get over that knee injury!
 
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