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Bicycle age

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
58 cm might be a little small for you, have you had bikes that size before? (You're doing this to be more comfortable, after all.)

Not sure what your commute is like but thumb shifters with a drop bar doesn't sound like a lot of fun to ride on every day. (The next bike up in their entry line has STI shifters with a drop bar.)

Triple chainrings seems like overkill too but I don't know about where you commute or what the rear cogs are like.

I'm really new to cycling, so some of these questions are probably dumb.

Size wise I was just looking at the biggest size they offered. I did notice that they offered STI shifters on the next level up, and those look like they'd be much more comfortable.
As far as my commute, it's only around 5 miles a day, but I like to get multiple long rides in per week. Right now that's been hindered since rides in my current seating position get uncomfortable quick.
The exceeding gearing would be overkill for me. I really only use 4th, 5th, and 6th. And I usually stay in 6th. I was looking a single speed before, but I think I'd get tired of that quickly.

Do you know of any other low end brands I could look at besides the Vilano's?

edit: based on a bike calculator my ideal frame size would be 61" (6'5, 35" leg length), so yeah that frame might be a bit small for me. I think my current Fuji frame is 57cm.
 

Karakand

Member
We were all new to cycling once and asked dumb questions. :)

Normally I don't suggest buying online for someone relatively inexperienced, but I feel like in terms of what you're looking for some of BikesDirect.com's low-end models are up your alley.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3-xv.htm (Unfortunately this is a triple too but I've heard heard good things about Windsors for what they are.)

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/road_bikes/mirage_s.htm (Tons of size options on this one.)

Do you have an REI membership or anything like that? REI will build a bike you bought online for you if you're a member... local bike shops have (understandably) been known to shun people who bring in stuff bought online.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
We were all new to cycling once and asked dumb questions. :)

Normally I don't suggest buying online for someone relatively inexperienced, but I feel like in terms of what you're looking for some of BikesDirect.com's low-end models are up your alley.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3-xv.htm (Unfortunately this is a triple too but I've heard heard good things about Windsors for what they are.)

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/road_bikes/mirage_s.htm (Tons of size options on this one.)

Do you have an REI membership or anything like that? REI will build a bike you bought online for you if you're a member... local bike shops have (understandably) been known to shun people who bring in stuff bought online.

I do not have an REI membership, but I'll look into it.

Thanks for the links and the site. I agree with you about the buying online bit. My experience with bike shops around here though is that unless I have >$500 to spend on something it's pretty much useless searching for a bike there. The two that you linked look great.

What do you mean by 'triple'?
edit: Oh you mean there's three sprockets on the crank. Yeah, I'm with you on that. I'd prefer just two.
 

Mascot

Member
Forgot to say.... got a bit muddy today.

2015-08-3016.21.56fpqvi.jpg

That's vanity mud, nothing that a cheap rear mudguard wouldn't solve. But then you wouldn't look H4RDC0R3!!11

:p
 
Ha, vanity mud. I gotta remember that.

Myself, I got another small mtb race coming up. 30km in easy-ish terrain. Now the only thing is, do I spend 60 euros on MGSV or an expander sprocket for the race.
 
Don't make any changes without having a good long ride before your main ride. You'll regret it. One of the worst things you can do is messing with your setup before a big ride.

1: If they help you psycholigically... they'll help. (See above about making sure you have a good long ride on them after, because you'll want to make sure your cleats are aligned properly)

2: You'll probably want to mess with either your sweep or your bar height. Beyond that, some grips are far more comfortable than others. Further beyond that, there's a chance your brake levers are at a bad angle for you, which can really mess with your wrists.... and finally, you might just be leaning on your handlebars rather than supporting yourself properly with your core.

Have you ever had a proper bike fit?

Example: I was having issues with my seat so I moved it forward about half an inch right before my first ever century. I didn't make it 15 miles before my knees, ass, and feet were all in great pain. I stopped, moved the seat back about a 1/4 inch and all was good for the rest of the ride. Well, once my ass/knees/feet stopped hating me.
Pretty wild video of a professional CX rider hitting a bike park on his cross bike.

http://www.zapiks.fr/dirt-merchant-a-line-with-cx.html
Love the pseudo rocket noises when he jumps.
 

Karakand

Member
I do not have an REI membership, but I'll look into it.

Thanks for the links and the site. I agree with you about the buying online bit. My experience with bike shops around here though is that unless I have >$500 to spend on something it's pretty much useless searching for a bike there. The two that you linked look great.

What do you mean by 'triple'?
edit: Oh you mean there's three sprockets on the crank. Yeah, I'm with you on that. I'd prefer just two.

It sounded like time was an issue for you, but if it's not you can get great deals trawling bike shops and websites trying to ditch bikes from prior model years. (Like the year-end clearance in the auto industry.) My primary bike's suggested retail price was in the low 4 figures but I got it for something like $600. Besides having to haggle if you go this route, you're going to have a harder time finding something in your frame size probably.
 
Example: I was having issues with my seat so I moved it forward about half an inch right before my first ever century. I didn't make it 15 miles before my knees, ass, and feet were all in great pain. I stopped, moved the seat back about a 1/4 inch and all was good for the rest of the ride. Well, once my ass/knees/feet stopped hating me.
Love the pseudo rocket noises when he jumps.

1/2 inch is a big step forward on the seat. Glad you got it corrected, but in the future just go baby steps.
 
Fuck, there's all sorts of awesome CX races/group rides coming up and I don't have a CX bike, or money for one. You guys think a Charge Plug with shitty caliper brakes could do it if I changed the freewheel to some super noisy dirt freewheel with more teeth? Or will I die in the first downhill?
 
Just a warning, CX racers in my experience tend to be the fittest of the fit, and the races are brutal...

...with that said, you can pretty much get away with any bike as long as you have the right tyres on it.... but obviously for that you need the right clearance on your frame.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
It sounded like time was an issue for you, but if it's not you can get great deals trawling bike shops and websites trying to ditch bikes from prior model years. (Like the year-end clearance in the auto industry.) My primary bike's suggested retail price was in the low 4 figures but I got it for something like $600. Besides having to haggle if you go this route, you're going to have a harder time finding something in your frame size probably.

Thanks for the advice. I probably phrased my original question to see a little too urgent. Right now I'm in the searching stage still. Tomorrow I'm going to drop my Fuji off at a different bike shop to see if they will be able to get the seat fixed.

If they do I'll see how it feels with a proper seat adjustment. If they don't I'll look at selling the bike and getting a replacement.
 
1/2 inch is a big step forward on the seat. Glad you got it corrected, but in the future just go baby steps.

That as three years ago. If I had a chance to talk to that person, I would slap him for thinking that "oh, just move it a half inch!" was a good idea.
Just a warning, CX racers in my experience tend to be the fittest of the fit, and the races are brutal...

...with that said, you can pretty much get away with any bike as long as you have the right tyres on it.... but obviously for that you need the right clearance on your frame.

Oh yeah. I think I mentioned that I found out a guy I work with is on a local CX team. He's so fucking fit it's scary. He popped off an 89-mile ride the other day after work and made it home in time for dinner.
 
Just a warning, CX racers in my experience tend to be the fittest of the fit, and the races are brutal...

...with that said, you can pretty much get away with any bike as long as you have the right tyres on it.... but obviously for that you need the right clearance on your frame.

Luckily they have some beginners' races, and then there's this weird unofficial thing where they ride CX on singletrack. I'm taking the 29er there though, I've ridden some of those places and there's a good amount of gnarl.
 

iamcenok

Member
Hey there BikeGAF! How goes it?

I've been planning on a bike for a while now and I was going to go for a Raleigh.

However on a whim I decided to look at Trek bikes and now I am eyeing these two bikes.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/performance_race/emonda_alr/emonda_alr_4/#
And
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/performance_race/emonda/emonda_s_4/

Is there any reason to put those extra bucks towards the carbon fiber frame over the aluminum frame? Does it make THAT much difference?

I've heard good things about the Emonda model. Any gaffers own one of these?
 

Karakand

Member
Carbon fiber is lighter, has a longer lifespan (if you don't crash it), and is easier on the body riding long distance.

Is this your first bike? If so I suggest you join us in the #aluminati.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
Dropped my Fuji off at the shop this morning to see if they could get the seat post free. Ended up picking it this evening with them having no luck either.

Looks like I'm going to be finding a new bike and selling this one now.
 

iamcenok

Member
Carbon fiber is lighter, has a longer lifespan (if you don't crash it), and is easier on the body riding long distance.

Is this your first bike? If so I suggest you join us in the #aluminati.

It will be my first bike in about 15 years. And my first road bike.

I've been going to a bike trail and renting a bike with a friend and decided to try for The Raleigh Revenio. http://archive.raleighusa.com/archive/2013-road/revenio-3-0-13/
And had a blast riding it.
 

Karakand

Member
Dropped my Fuji off at the shop this morning to see if they could get the seat post free. Ended up picking it this evening with them having no luck either.

Looks like I'm going to be finding a new bike and selling this one now.

Keep us posted!

It will be my first bike in about 15 years. And my first road bike.

I've been going to a bike trail and renting a bike with a friend and decided to try for The Raleigh Revenio. http://archive.raleighusa.com/archive/2013-road/revenio-3-0-13/
And had a blast riding it.

Should be able to get a good deal on it since it's a 10 speed 105 and an older model. I had no idea Raleighs were sold in the U.S., if this wasn't too rich for my blood I'd be all over it as my bike to go downtown:

http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-open-road-heritage-record-ace

Call your bike the RECORD ACE but don't equip it with Record, Super Record, or Dura-Ace brehs.
 
Out for a sunday ride, not exactly the best for XC riding. Seatpost is at maximum height without causing too much torque on the frame (they have a line indicated on it).

20150830_124112mpyw7.jpg
 

iamcenok

Member
Keep us posted!



Should be able to get a good deal on it since it's a 10 speed 105 and an older model. I had no idea Raleighs were sold in the U.S., if this wasn't too rich for my blood I'd be all over it as my bike to go downtown:

http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-open-road-heritage-record-ace

Call your bike the RECORD ACE but don't equip it with Record, Super Record, or Dura-Ace brehs.

Well I applied for and got a trek credit card with a limit of 1500 so I think I'll end up getting one of their bikes.

The carbon fiber body is actually on sale for 1300. Same price going for the ALR aluminum body.

Now I'm torn. But as a novice would it be better for me to go with aluminum either way?
 

teepo

Member
i wouldn't recommend a carbon fiber frame for a first bike, even if you have the money to spare. significantly abuse your first frame before upgrading.
 

teepo

Member
i'm very familiar with the area -- live close by and many friends and family members went to VCU -- and i still find it to be an odd choice even if it's a partnership. give me paris!
 

Karakand

Member
Well I applied for and got a trek credit card with a limit of 1500 so I think I'll end up getting one of their bikes.

The carbon fiber body is actually on sale for 1300. Same price going for the ALR aluminum body.

Now I'm torn. But as a novice would it be better for me to go with aluminum either way?

Yeah, for two reasons. One, if you crash you can really ruin a carbon fiber frame (which is especially relevant if you're financing, you could find yourself paying off a bike you can't ride anymore) and two, it's overkill for a newer rider, especially something like the Emonda which is a light climbing frame.

That said, it's a bike that you wouldn't outgrow for a long, long time. I even think its a UCI legal frame, so you could race it one day
after you replace that Tiagra groupset
.
 

HTupolev

Member
One, if you crash you can really ruin a carbon fiber frame
The scary thing with carbon fiber is that it doesn't show its damage as clearly, and then when it gives it fails catastrophically. CF frames aren't particularly "weak" though; a crash that would snap a half-decent CF frame would also be capable of turning a lightweight steel frame into a pretzel. Aluminum sits somewhere between the two, and although aluminum frames can be more durable than they're sometimes given credit for, there's nothing particularly magical about them.

(which is especially relevant if you're financing, you could find yourself paying off a bike you can't ride anymore)
It's the same price in this instance, though.

//=================

Ultimately the weight different between an ALR 4 and an S4 is going to be basically irrelevant except maybe in a race, though. Trek's entry-level racing bikes weight around 20lb, with the frame being only a few pounds of that.

The most important factor is which one feels best. I've never ridden a carbon Emonda, but my ALR 5 feels tight and responsive and confident in corners, while not rattling me as much as I expected. I wouldn't particularly direct anyone away from the ALR line, as my experience with it so far has been decent.
 
Well I applied for and got a trek credit card with a limit of 1500 so I think I'll end up getting one of their bikes.

The carbon fiber body is actually on sale for 1300. Same price going for the ALR aluminum body.

Now I'm torn. But as a novice would it be better for me to go with aluminum either way?

Buy steel
 

TheExodu5

Banned
So I'm looking to get clip on pedals and shoes. I do mostly commuting, but I'll be doing a 100 km ride in a month so I want something that will be comfortable over 5+ hour rides.

Should I be going SPD or racing pedals? SPD has a major advantage for me: I can walk in my biking shoes. That means I wouldn't need to carry an extra pair of shoes with me wherever I go. That being said, I wonder if it's worth the trade off in performance or comfort. Any thoughts?

I'm leaning towards SPD right now. The two shoes that interest me currently are Bontrager RL and Pearl Izumi X Project 3.0. The Bontragers have a wide fit, which suits my foot a bit better, but the Pearls have more comfortable material and seem far more breathable. I'm not sure which to go with.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
So I'm looking to get clip on pedals and shoes. I do mostly commuting, but I'll be doing a 100 km ride in a month so I want something that will be comfortable over 5+ hour rides.

Should I be going SPD or racing pedals? SPD has a major advantage for me: I can walk in my biking shoes. That means I wouldn't need to carry an extra pair of shoes with me wherever I go. That being said, I wonder if it's worth the trade off in performance or comfort. Any thoughts?

I'm leaning towards SPD right now. The two shoes that interest me currently are Bontrager RL and Pearl Izumi X Project 3.0. The Bontragers have a wide fit, which suits my foot a bit better, but the Pearls have more comfortable material and seem far more breathable. I'm not sure which to go with.

Any advice is appreciated.

I just went through this as I put SPD on my new bike after using Look for the last 3 years. Here's my experiences and feedback:

It depends on the shoe you buy and how much you may want to walk in it. There are some SPD shoes that are very casual, but their soles are going to be less tiff which isn't ideal for longer rides. So in some cases you may still want to bring shoes with you. I have a pair of Giro Privateer and Giro Republics. Both are comfortable to walk in, but I don't know if I'd spend an entire work day in them.

If you want SPD, but are worried about long rides then look into the Shimano A530 and A600. They're touring pedals and offer a wider frame area to cover more of your foot. In theory this helps provide a better contact area which should lead to less hot spots and numbness on longer rides. I just did a 3ish hour ride on these pedals and they were pretty comfortable. I had some numbness and hot spotting but that may have been do more to the shoes than anything. FWIW I had a period of of this on my Looks too.

As for the shoes, they're pretty much the same shoe. Most of the SPD shoes will be of similar style and material especially if you're only looking at the MTB category. Shimano makes the SH-RT82 which is their touring shoe and it has stellar reviews from all over. I would give that one a look.

A word of caution with SPD: they're finicky as hell and will require a few rides to get the pedal situation figured out. They have float, but not nearly as much as Look or Speedplays. What this means is you're going to need to be a bit more precise in lining up the cleat. I'd look up some videos on how to set up your cleats. It's straight forward (it's two bolts), but adjustment and tuning will require some more thought. Get familiar with the pain locations so as to better understand where to adjust the cleat.
 
back on bike again after two surgeries the past week and just did zwift for 30 mins while keeping HR below 125 and power >100. did a few five second bursts but since my nose is practically sealed off right now i look like tony martin gasping for air :( . my doctor, who also dabbles in triathlons and loves cycling, told me i could start really pushing it next week. i'm already getting anxious and ive reached that point (dreaded) where i feel like absolute dog poo if i dont get at least 30 mins on the bike each day. even fiancee has started asking me if i had gone riding yet and when i can really start again.. yesss. that perfect point where your rides become her special alone time, a win win.

and man, chris froome crashing uphill and fracturing a bone in his foot. this.guy.
 
Just got back from Amsterdam. Man... it's a different world there when it comes to cycling. Really mindblowing.

Funnily enough, I actually ended up pretty much walking everywhere, but next time I go I'm definitely hiring a bike.
 

thomaser

Member
There's a mountain right next to where I live. I've been up there with the bike on various gravel roads, but haven't tried the paths yet until today. 99% carrying, 1% biking. But the view was good.

Sorry for all the photos:

Tried to make the bike stand in the mud, didn't work.

Lookit all them colours.

Two-three fjords at once, how often do you see that?

20 meters of continuous biking! That was one of the longer stretches.

Highest point. Right after this was a scary climb down that wasn't fun at all. Cycling shoes don't grip well on sheer rock.

Fun to ride along the dam! But there are lots of concrete thingys farther down that stand in the way, so the bike has to be carried most of the way.
 

Stinkles

Clothed, sober, cooperative
Dropped my Fuji off at the shop this morning to see if they could get the seat post free. Ended up picking it this evening with them having no luck either.

Looks like I'm going to be finding a new bike and selling this one now.

If you know anyone with a walk in freezer take it in there for 24 hours, whack with rubber mallet, try again.
 

Granadier

Is currently on Stage 1: Denial regarding the service game future
If you know anyone with a walk in freezer take it in there for 24 hours, whack with rubber mallet, try again.

Unfortunately I don't, but that's a good idea.

One of the things I tried was using that "Freeze-Off" spray used for stuck bolts and such. Sprayed a bunch of that down the seat tube to chill it, and then smacked it with a mallet. No such luck there. It seems to be really seized in there. :/
 

Mascot

Member
Found a fucking AWESOME new trail tonight. I must have ridden parallel to it hundreds of times as the entrance is quite hidden, but a neighbour tipped me the nod so I investigated. Somebody's been busy in there clearing trees and building berms & jumps, and there's a few natural bomb-holes where big-ass trees have fallen back in the olden days.

Then I got a puncture (my third in two days).

Then a wasp flew down the neck of my teeshirt and stung me twice on the throat (first wasp stings for forty-odd years).

Yay, and bah.
 
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