opticalmace
Member
That sucks, sorry to hear it. What's broken on the bike?
I've gone head first into a tree before too. I had a full-face helmet on (which I broke), thankfully. I still got a broken nose from it, and was pretty dazed.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
That sucks, sorry to hear it. What's broken on the bike?
I've gone head first into a tree before too. I had a full-face helmet on (which I broke), thankfully. I still got a broken nose from it, and was pretty dazed.
that sucks man and is a large part why i shy away from mountain biking. i hope you didn't suffer a concussion of any sort.
but i have to say, your avatar gave me the great idea to put james blake on my cycling playlist! so thanks!
why am i not surprised :/
jakonovski
Member
Ouch on the tree crash! Good thing you walked away from it, sounds really scary. Condolences on the bike though.
Myself, I went down rocky descents with my Charge Plug 2, trying it out for a ghetto SSCX machine. Definitely need to turn the stem around, almost went otb because of the low front. Can't use hoods while going downhill, not nearly enough brake power for a 100kg rider. Gearing is 42x20, slightly too tall for hills but it's what the LBS had available.
Anyone know anything about the new Kona Rove AL? It's cheap and they brag about it having new CX geometry plus clearance for studded tyres.
Myself, I went down rocky descents with my Charge Plug 2, trying it out for a ghetto SSCX machine. Definitely need to turn the stem around, almost went otb because of the low front. Can't use hoods while going downhill, not nearly enough brake power for a 100kg rider. Gearing is 42x20, slightly too tall for hills but it's what the LBS had available.
Anyone know anything about the new Kona Rove AL? It's cheap and they brag about it having new CX geometry plus clearance for studded tyres.
outunderthestars
Banned
Anyone here using a Garmin Edge 520? Thoughts?
Psychotext
Member
So mission complete.
12.5 hours, 136 miles. I believe that's a metric double century, and an imperial century too. Not bad for a mountain bike! The route I ended up not being long enough to keep me out for the 12 hours I was looking for (I was much faster than I expected to be) so I had to add on a little trail and a bit of general wandering. Had two punctures, which given I'm running tubeless is a bit shit... I really must replace these awful tyres.
I feel completely wrecked now, but when I was doing it, I felt amazing, basically right up until the end because I pushed a bit too hard. Seems the key to endurance is keeping your heart rate under control
https://www.strava.com/activities/395661161
p.s... I can't feel my bits. They're almost completely numb and have been since I got back. I really hope I've not done anything permanent. =/
p.p.s. I was carrying my bikepacking gear too (as it was a training ride for the 24hr+ event where I have to carry at least a bivi and a sleeping bag.
12.5 hours, 136 miles. I believe that's a metric double century, and an imperial century too. Not bad for a mountain bike! The route I ended up not being long enough to keep me out for the 12 hours I was looking for (I was much faster than I expected to be) so I had to add on a little trail and a bit of general wandering. Had two punctures, which given I'm running tubeless is a bit shit... I really must replace these awful tyres.
I feel completely wrecked now, but when I was doing it, I felt amazing, basically right up until the end because I pushed a bit too hard. Seems the key to endurance is keeping your heart rate under control
https://www.strava.com/activities/395661161
p.s... I can't feel my bits. They're almost completely numb and have been since I got back. I really hope I've not done anything permanent. =/
p.p.s. I was carrying my bikepacking gear too (as it was a training ride for the 24hr+ event where I have to carry at least a bivi and a sleeping bag.
jakonovski
Member
I got one of them saddles with ventilation slits. God's gift to testicles and perineums everywhere I say.
Psychotext
Member
I used to have this problem, but not with this saddle. Problem is that I've got virtually no meat left on my arse now. It even goes numb sitting in a car seat.
My arse that is, not my bits.
Gray Matter
Member
Did some killer hills today. A section was about 2.5 miles of just climbing, going up and up, it felt endless, but man it was glorious on the other side, I was going so fast going down that I got scared a little and had my hand on the break the entire time just in case.
opticalmace
Member
Anyone have a dropper post? Worth the dough?
Psychotext
Member
I don't, but I'd love one. If you do trails that have pedally bits and full on downhill bits, they're worth their weight in gold.
Most just don't seem to drop that much. 100-125mm just doesn't seem like that much.
Quote
Member
Wah, 4ish inches is huge???
Psychotext
Member
4 inches is all you ever need.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I have a 510 which is pretty similar in specs / features. When my 510 broke I was hoping they'd let me upgrade to the 520.
I've needed (but not had) one on all of my previous bikes but the geometry of my current HT means I can instantly and easily pop off and rest my stomach against the back of the saddle for any steep descents. I used to have to stop and lower the seat post every time, and it was a pain in the ass. I'd get one without thinking if I still needed it.
worth every penny. it has great form factor and all the features you'd want. though i'm not a fan of the strava live segments.
however, if form factor isn't important, it might be better to invest in a 510 if it's cheaper, especially since i believe it gained a lot of the 520 features through a firmware update.
Psychotext
Member
Was quite impressed at how my Garmin Edge 1000 got me home yesterday. I had no idea of a route other than a dual carriageway and a seriously nasty set of country lanes where everyone drives way too fast. I assume because it was allowed to route off road, this took me down all sorts of end of (dead end) street lanes and trails which enabled me to get back really quickly.
I have been considering getting a road bike to do some cycling with my wife.
I am looking at Specialized Allez Sport and Elite, both 2015 models. The Sport is $800 and the Elite is $1000.
The main differences seems to be Sora vs Tiagra along with "SmartWeld" tech on the Elite which kind of seems like nonsense, and Sora is a 9spd cassette vs 10 on the Tiagra.
I would like to go with the lower price, but if the Elite is a significant jump I would be willing to pay the extra. Anybody have experience with the Allez? Or with Sora components vs Tiagra?
I am looking at Specialized Allez Sport and Elite, both 2015 models. The Sport is $800 and the Elite is $1000.
The main differences seems to be Sora vs Tiagra along with "SmartWeld" tech on the Elite which kind of seems like nonsense, and Sora is a 9spd cassette vs 10 on the Tiagra.
I would like to go with the lower price, but if the Elite is a significant jump I would be willing to pay the extra. Anybody have experience with the Allez? Or with Sora components vs Tiagra?
Psychotext
Member
If it's just leisure cycling I wouldn't worry about getting Tiagra. Nicer shifters, slightly lighter, slightly crisper shifts... it really doesn't make that much difference. If you're planning on doing more cycling at a group level perhaps, then it might be worth the extra.
Unrelated, I have to move at the end of the year and I'm just looking at locations. One particular area gives me (virtually on the doorstep) access to about 200 miles of traffic free cycling.
Needless to say, it's added significant points for that area!
Unrelated, I have to move at the end of the year and I'm just looking at locations. One particular area gives me (virtually on the doorstep) access to about 200 miles of traffic free cycling.
Needless to say, it's added significant points for that area!
My wife does triathlons/half ironman stuff, so keeping up with her will be hard enough.
I can never get a bead on where diminishing returns start with this stuff? At what point do bikes get good and then improvements from then on are just icing? What is the basement for a bike you should buy? I am assuming that if you can afford it you should avoid department store bikes. Ok, but what about bottom end bike shop bikes?
Also, so few bike shops around here (SF Bay Area) have decent websites with pricing. I am not driving around to the 20 biie shops around here to compare prices. I'll just stick to stores who have a decent website. Sorry other guys.
I can never get a bead on where diminishing returns start with this stuff? At what point do bikes get good and then improvements from then on are just icing? What is the basement for a bike you should buy? I am assuming that if you can afford it you should avoid department store bikes. Ok, but what about bottom end bike shop bikes?
Also, so few bike shops around here (SF Bay Area) have decent websites with pricing. I am not driving around to the 20 biie shops around here to compare prices. I'll just stick to stores who have a decent website. Sorry other guys.
Psychotext
Member
As far as diminishing returns... for road bikes, it's probably Tiagra. For mountain bikes, Deore.
In reality, you need to try the bikes. If you like it, you buy it... and you don't worry about whatever model bollocks is stamped on it. I paid quite a lot for a 105 equipped road bike, and for the amount I use it, it might as well be a singlespeed.
In reality, you need to try the bikes. If you like it, you buy it... and you don't worry about whatever model bollocks is stamped on it. I paid quite a lot for a 105 equipped road bike, and for the amount I use it, it might as well be a singlespeed.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Better question: what is your budget? What you can find in the 600-800 is a lot different from what you will get in the 300-400 range.
That is the thing. I am trying to come up with what I want to spend. I can spend $2000 on a bike. But I don't want to if I don't have to, and I definitely think I don't have to.
I would love to spend $300-400 if it would be good enough, but I get the impression that the stuff down there is kind of crappy.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
What brands are the bike shops selling? I know a lot of people in the Bay Area love Mission Bikes but I think their stuff is kind of priced high.
Gray Matter
Member
I'm in the market for a road bike myself and $400 is not going to do anything. Of course, I have become quite invested in cycling and have been riding a lot, so I'm looking for something different than what you want.
I say, don't be afraid to spend just a bit more. $2000 will get you a great bike, but it sounds like you don't need something that pricey.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
You can get very good bikes for $700-800. No need to spend upwards of 2000 unless you're planning to jump right into triathlons or racing.
Gray Matter
Member
I must be looking in the wrong place then. Anything decent I've seen in the $1200-1600 range.
specalized allez is a hell of a bike for its price range but you can't beat the deals you can find on ridley frames at performance bike shop
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1169486_-1___000000
$1000 for a full 105 groupset, can't beat that
edit: sold out, but look for closeout deals. march is usually the best time to upgrade your bike.
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1169486_-1___000000
$1000 for a full 105 groupset, can't beat that
edit: sold out, but look for closeout deals. march is usually the best time to upgrade your bike.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Scott, Fuji, Kona and Giant all make really affordable bikes with pretty decent groupsets. I would aim for a 105/Tiagra mix minimum, but getting sora also isn't the end of the world. If you plan to go all 105 you're looking at 1000-1200.
Psychotext
Member
That's the crazy thing about mountain biking. Often a 15 mile ride can end up harder than an 80 mile ride.
Christoff Yurievich
Member
Keep in mind used shops in the area. There's one near here that has some pretty good bikes for pretty good prices. I don't know your size but that Scattante, if it would fit you, is a pretty good budget price.
Gray Matter
Member
My hybrid has shimano acera(?) 8 speeds, and while that works for the bike, when I eventually upgrade to a road a bike, I would aim for 105 or tiagra.
Yeah, I'm glad I went out because it might be the last bit of sun we get for a while but I was really feeling the effects of the previous day's identical ride (which I blasted around at full peg for two-and-a-half hours with energy to spare). Feeling a bit crock today actually so maybe I'm fighting a virus. Or maybe it's just that wet Monday feeling.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
When I was going through this I had the same mindset of needing a particular set up thinking I may eventually race. If you really never plan on racing and are really stuck on a particular budget just go with the cheaper (nothing below tiagra) option initially. If it's a mix of 105/tiagra just make sure the 105 is in the right places (derailuers , shifters, brakes).
If you buy a good frame you can just swap some parts out as you get more money. Obviously you're not going to throw di2 shift set on a 500 bike, but if you get a mix swapping out for 105 isn't the end of the world.
I'm also now an advocate for steel frames. Those things will outlast an aluminum frame and have a bit more classic look to them. They're not as heavy as they'd seem and if you ever want to drop some weight you can put a carbon fork on.
Nothing below Tiagra? Is that actually sensible or based on experience?
From what I have read, feature trickle down over time leads to new versions of lower groupsets being equal to older versions of higher groupsets. So saying that Tiagra is the lowest you should go when this years Sora may be just as good as 2012's Tiagra seems strange.
From what I have read, feature trickle down over time leads to new versions of lower groupsets being equal to older versions of higher groupsets. So saying that Tiagra is the lowest you should go when this years Sora may be just as good as 2012's Tiagra seems strange.
Psychotext
Member
Again, depends on usage. For recreational usage Sora is just fine... and yes, in reality it's probably just as good as Tiagra from a few years back (especially now it uses the same type of shifter).
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/revi...-cranks-etc/shimano-sora-everything-need-know
Beware of cyclists who get caught up in chasing the rainbow. Reminds me of some of the MAMILS I know who've spent thousands to lose a kg, when they could have just backed off on the beer for a month and lost far more for free...
http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/revi...-cranks-etc/shimano-sora-everything-need-know
Beware of cyclists who get caught up in chasing the rainbow. Reminds me of some of the MAMILS I know who've spent thousands to lose a kg, when they could have just backed off on the beer for a month and lost far more for free...
Hey bikeGAF! I've just moved to a new place in ridgeland MS and there are some great trails down the road from where I live. This seems like a great new hobby that I might enjoy. I have quite a bit of free time on my hands these days and this seems perfect.
Any tips or advice on entry/beginner mountain bikes? I'm 5"10, 30" inseam - a bit of a smaller frame.
Im going to go to my local bike shop and browse around this weekend - maybe get sized and try a few. Any bikes in particular that I should look at? I'd like to stay under 1k as this will be my first purchase. Definitely leaning towards a hardtail.
Thanks guys!
Any tips or advice on entry/beginner mountain bikes? I'm 5"10, 30" inseam - a bit of a smaller frame.
Im going to go to my local bike shop and browse around this weekend - maybe get sized and try a few. Any bikes in particular that I should look at? I'd like to stay under 1k as this will be my first purchase. Definitely leaning towards a hardtail.
Thanks guys!
Psychotext
Member
Yeah, you definitely want a hardtail at those sort of prices. There was another US based poster who bought recently that might be able to help you. Problem with the US is you don't have access to a bunch of the no brainer bargain bikes that we get in Europe, which means you end up being stuck with more expensive bikes from Trek, Specialized and the like.
It sure would be nice if they'd let me rent or try it out on the trails before I buy it.
jakonovski
Member
$1k will get you a good bike even from the big names. Just make sure it has an air fork. Basically go test ride different bikes and buy the raddest. Proper size and fit is most important so buy from a local bike store.
edit: also post prospective bikes here so we can all disagree on whether you should get one.
edit: also post prospective bikes here so we can all disagree on whether you should get one.
Noted and I'll definitely post my potential buys here before purchasing.
Thanks
outunderthestars
Banned
I personally think that anything above 105 is definitely in the "diminishing returns" category. Tiagra 4700 is a great workhorse group, and new 9 speed Sora is a good entry level group as well.
jakonovski
Member
My only specific recommendation is Trek X-Caliber 9 (and only 9, since the lower models have coil forks), which should be pretty much spot on the 1k mark. It's what I have and it'll do anything.
One thing you actually should do is try out both 27,5" and 29" wheel sizes. It can make a big difference to how a bike rides, but is 100% a matter of personal preference.
One thing you actually should do is try out both 27,5" and 29" wheel sizes. It can make a big difference to how a bike rides, but is 100% a matter of personal preference.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I wanted to add something more to my other comments now that I have read this again. You can buy a $500 bike or you can buy a $5000 bike, but at the end of the day it will always come down to you as the rider. Yes, to some extent riding a 25lb beast up a hill is a lot different from riding a 15lb bike up a hill. But if you the rider are not smart with how you get up that hill it doesn't matter.
The recommendations we have for components, at least with me, has more to do with longevity than it does with performance. There can be a difference in feel, but there is a good chance you wont even know what that feel is if it's your first bike. It would be more important to focus on getting a good buy and bang for the buck over trying to buy something purely from a performance perspective.
Buy the best bike you can for your budget, but don't get too caught up in if a carbon frame will help you keep up more than a steel frame.
petran79
Banned
I always do lengthy warm ups before bicycling. It does make a difference and prevents leg strains.
But the secret is that I always put the highest gear, even on windy days. Got used to it and get tired less. Only on high slopes do I lower it 2-3 gears the most.
Psychotext
Member
Using high gears is generally a bad idea for endurance. Far better to increase your cadence over time which will enable you to put the pressure on your cardio vascular system, rather than burning out your muscles.
Not an issue if you're only out for a couple of hours, but can be a big problem if you're out for longer.
Shiny is always best.
Not an issue if you're only out for a couple of hours, but can be a big problem if you're out for longer.
Shiny is always best.
jakonovski
Member
For those who worry if their bike is good enough: https://vimeo.com/139331461
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