Psychotext
Member
Stravas numbers are bollocks.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Those guesstimates are usually higher than what your power would be. Not sure of the % off, but they're off.
http://blog.veloviewer.com/comparison-of-strava-estimated-power-to-power-meter-values/
http://blog.veloviewer.com/comparison-of-strava-estimated-power-to-power-meter-values/
jakonovski
Member
Better to use them only as a comparison then, there's quite a few races in the coming months. But now it's time for a cool & refreshing Radler. Now that's what I call carb loading!
Psychotext
Member
Alcohol reduces testosterone and messes with recovery. Best to not do it on cycling days. 
jakonovski
Member
Too late now, so might as well open another!
I know it's a niche within a niche, but I thought it was impressive, both mens and womens competition records for a 10 mile time trial went today, Anna Turvey 19:08 and Marcin Białobłocki 16:35.
That works out at 31.36mph avg for Anna and 36.18mph avg for Marcin.
Impressive stuff!
That works out at 31.36mph avg for Anna and 36.18mph avg for Marcin.
Impressive stuff!
Psychotext
Member
This should be good for my next ride right?
Edit - Ugh, god, my bars are £120 to replace. Expensive day.
Edit - Ugh, god, my bars are £120 to replace. Expensive day.
On the plus side, your knackered elbow doesn't seem to have affected your colouring in skills. That butterfly is one of the harder ones. Well done!This should be good for my next ride right?
Edit - Ugh, god, my bars are £120 to replace. Expensive day.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
This should be good for my next ride right?
Edit - Ugh, god, my bars are £120 to replace. Expensive day.
How many watts does that butterfly add?
Psychotext
Member
Quiet, both of you. lol
Had a massive crash at Bikepark Wales
Busted up my other elbow (joins the one I smashed up a month or so back), broken a rib, fucked up my carbon handlebars and bent my saddle rails.
Knee pads worked though. Knees are pristine.
Sad to hear you got hurt.
I gotta to ask. Are injuries a way of life for the enthusiast cyclist?
frontieruk
Member
Not really, psycho just enjoys taking them all for the team
Psychotext
Member
Pretty much a guarantee at some point for off road, assuming you're trying to get faster anyway. For roadies a lot of it comes down to how much time you spend with idiot drivers around you.
Or idiot cyclists around you. Only injury I've ever had was training on track in high school - touch of wheels and 8 people went down; had two bikes run me over.
Psychotext
Member
Ugh, big crash for Manon Carpenter in the downhill world championship finals. Looks like something broken.
jakonovski
Member
That was a brutal World Championships. So many riders with serious crashes.
I do wonder what made Aaron Gwin's rear wheel explode like that.
Achievement unlocked
https://www.strava.com/activities/708963298
Included an hour of rainfall starting at mile 20, which luckily gave way to sunshine at mile 68.
https://www.strava.com/activities/708963298
Included an hour of rainfall starting at mile 20, which luckily gave way to sunshine at mile 68.
The_Inquisitor
Member
Grats man. Just gave you kudos on Strava.
Psychotext
Member
Nice job. My nephew had a 7 hour day off road today (I was suppose to be with him, but couldn't for obvious reasons).
Was clearly the day for big rides.
Was clearly the day for big rides.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Can you explain how to best read ratio charts? I'm looking into saving for a Fuji Feather (really hard to beat at $400USD) but it's a 46x16 so I'm not sure how it'd be for me. My main bike is a 50/39 with a 11/32 cassette. I tend to ride 50/18 (I think) but have no idea how this translate into a 46/16. I know there are calculators but understanding them is a different thing.
I just chuck the ring and sproket into here > http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm, and hit the speed tab, this tells me how fast I will be going for a given cadence.
For example (this is 46 x 16)
You need to decide on what your cruising cadence wants to be for the speed you want to ride at, then you need to factor in hills on the route.
My gear is 47 x 16, which is ok on the flat (cruise at about 22mph) and I can get up any inclines without any bother, but spin out on descents, which means I probably need 49 x 16
I'll be honest though, apart from not having to worry about gear maintenance or chainline, I am not convinced of any benefit of SS, gears are faster and more efficient on any ride (IMO), but my SS is a steel frame with full guards, so it's an ideal winter commuter, and I am not allowed to buy another bike!
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Thanks for the help. I want one for two reasons: I have some imbalance in pedal stroke so I want to level it out some, and I want an easier to manage bike for commuting around my area.
I'll be honest, there is something a bit zen in not having to worry about gears, as for imbalance issues, they are pretty normal (within certain levels) and probably not worth the effort (IMO) trying to level it out (how much are we talking?).
I know people who swear that fixed improves pedal stroke, but it just messes my knees up, and I just use single speed instead of fixed.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Not terrible, but i notice them for sure. The Feather has a flip-flop hub so I could always reverse it if it gets to be too annoying.
Whatever happens, it's a nice looking bike, very retro.
jakonovski
Member
I made a ghetto sscx out of my Plug again, with a gearing of 42-19. It's a bit too much for off roading, but it was what they had on shelf and I figure it will help me learn how to carry speed. Also it has horrible caliper brakes that get stuffed with dead leaves.
jakonovski
Member
If only photography was an invention.
Luckily, my tubeless conversion went relatively easy today, so I was able to prepare a quick drawing of the bike. I was not quite able to capture the essence of the tyre pattern; they're old wire bead Challenge Grifos pressed into service (with tubes).
Psychotext
Member
Ha, awesome.
I'm off to try an hour on the trainer to see how all my injuries hold up. =/
Talking of which...
lol
I'm off to try an hour on the trainer to see how all my injuries hold up. =/
Talking of which...
lol
frontieruk
Member
Oh?
Two duranos, both not that old, rubber has come away from the bead which means the tyre unseats from the rim when you inflate them.
frontieruk
Member
jakonovski
Member
I have limited experience with road tyres, but Conti GP4000 is deservedly the gold standard.
Yeah, conti are my usual go to tyres, but I'd heard good things about the puncture resistance on the durano, but I think I'll go back to conti
Fuck, sorry I asked - I didn't realise you were talking about a Jimmy Farthing.Luckily, my tubeless conversion went relatively easy today, so I was able to prepare a quick drawing of the bike. I was not quite able to capture the essence of the tyre pattern; they're old wire bead Challenge Grifos pressed into service (with tubes).
PT, did you see Extreme Wales this evening? Mtb ride from the Brecon Beacons to the summit of Snowdon. It'll be on iPlayer tomorrow.
jakonovski
Member
Can't you make a little room in your heart for cyclocross? What's a curly whirly bar between friends?
frontieruk
Member
Psychotext
Member
Nice.
I've always said exercise is awful for losing weight. Just makes you hungry.
More injury photos...
(That's swelling, not love handles)
Psychotext
Member
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Switched to 4 Seasons and have been pretty happy. A little more rubber than GP4000
How far the bike will roll forward in a revolution of the pedals determines the gearing.
For example, suppose you have a 29er rear wheel where the tire actually inflates to exactly a 29" diameter, a 16-tooth cog, and a 48-tooth chainring.
The chainring has 3 times as many teeth as the cog (48/16), so the rear wheel will spin 3 times for every revolution of the cranks.
The circumference of the rear wheel is 91 inches (29 * pi). So for every revolution of the cranks, the rear wheel will turn 3 times, moving the bike forward by 91 inches each time; a total of 273 inches.
A lower number indicates lower gearing. This makes intuitive sense: it's easier turn the cranks around if doing so only moves you forward by 150 inches, than by 300 inches.
//=========================
However, while this "distance per crank cycle" is easy to visualize, it's not a typical unit for describing gearing. Instead:
1-The closest equivalent for describing gearing is called "gear inches," and it was first used in the days of bikes that had cranks mounted directly on the wheel axle, like penny-farthings. These bikes had gearing that was directly proportional to the size of the wheel. A penny-farthing with a 60-inch front wheel is said to have 60 gear inches.
Calculating gear inches is done exactly as the computations above, but without multiplying the wheel size by pi to get the circumference. So instead of:
(29*pi)*(48/16) = 273 inches moved forward by each pedal revolution
You do:
(29)*(48/16) = 87 gear inches
One way to interpret this is that, if you wanted to build a penny-farthing with gearing equivalent to that 29er, you'd have to use an 87-inch front wheel! Yikes!
A lot of road bikes with compact cranksets might have granny gears in the ballpark of 30 gear inches, and top gears in the realm of 120 gear inches.
A 700c Long Haul Trucker touring bike has a granny gear of about 22 gear inches.
2-When discussing gearing on a given bike, or multiple bikes with very close inflated wheel sizes, it's often simpler to ignore inflated wheel size and just compare the wheel-revolutions-per-crank-revolution. You're comparing a 50/18 to a 46/16? (50/18)/(46/16) = .966, so the 50/18 is a few percent lower than the Feather's stock gearing. This is a difference less than a single gear shift, so not huge; however, it's pretty ambitious to run a single-speed with a gear that's higher than your preferred cruising gear! You may wind up deciding to switch to a 17 or 18 in back. Or you'll be a badass! Your choice.
//=========================
Crank length also sort of affects gearing from the point of view of your legs, although it's a bit weird to quantify. Longer cranks are longer levers and can thus have a gearing-reducing effect. The gear reduction manifests as requiring that you turn your legs around a larger circle to maintain the same bicycle speed, rather than requiring that you turn the cranks at a higher RPM like "gear reductions" in the usual sense do.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Ah that all makes sense. I was thinking of just giving the 46/16 a go and see how it feels. We're mostly flat around here but I can definitely see finding myself on some climbs where I'll end up hating my life on that gearing.
It wouldn't differ, a 1:1 ratio is always 1:1
Psychotext
Member
Aye. Though I have heard someone argue that having a bigger ring on the front makes a difference, no matter the ratio... but they were never able to explain it well enough for me to believe them.
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