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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Also I don't have any gear. Looking to buy a helmet (for trails/possible dirt jumps) but I really hate how they look, was thinking of getting this...
...prolly too much eh? Heh I dunno anyways yea MTB is something I am looking to get into this summer.
The Deviant is a nice, light full face helmet. But it's entirely unnecessary if you aren't doing strenuous and aggressive "all mountain" riding. I've got one, but it only comes out on the shuttle runs.
In the meantime, I use this:
Fox Flux. Around $100, super comfy, looks pretty good. It's true that any approved helmet is going to offer you decent protection, but I've found that the more you spend on a helmet, the more comfortable it is. Which can be a big fucking deal with wearing it on a decent ride. You don't want uncomfortable gear on your head, as it can lead to a headache, distraction, etc. Do yourself a favor and spend some money up front. You'll be glad you did.
Phobophile
A scientist and gentleman in the manner of Batman.
My bike keeps breaking spokes on the rear wheel. Replaced them and trued the wheel twice now I need to replace it. What's a good site to buy replacement parts? I have a Gary Fisher Tiburon and the OEM wheel has a size designation of ETRRO 655x16.
Flatted yesterday during a 50km ride. It was in the home stretch, but walking 5km in road shoes will make me more prudent on future rides. I usually have an extra tube, but I forgot that I gave it to a friend. I am now carrying 2 tubes and 2 co2 cartridges at all times.
Edit: How does everyone feel about chain cleaners? Is this worth $20? Filzer CC-2
Edit: How does everyone feel about chain cleaners? Is this worth $20? Filzer CC-2
Has anyone here had the rather unpleasant experience of dealing with saddle sores? I've been riding for a few years now and have just now experienced the painful little pests. I'm starting to think my saddle may be wearing down. I've had a professional bike fit so I don't believe that's the issue.
What saddle is CyclingGAF using to keep the dreaded sores away?
What saddle is CyclingGAF using to keep the dreaded sores away?
Unless you're lance Armstrong suck it up and get a gel padded seat.
UpperCaseN
Member
Hit the trail for 2 hours today with my wife. This is our first time on our new bikes and also the first time we've worn the padded biking shorts as well. I feel like it protects too much crotch and not enough butt.
Saw a guy get a flat tire which made me worry, I'll take extra equipment with me next time in case it happens to us
Saw a guy get a flat tire which made me worry, I'll take extra equipment with me next time in case it happens to us
You could take that off road no prob with appropriate tires. Remember original MTBers road on basically reinforced road bikes. Atires and geometry are the real requirement and this would be fine for moderate plus trails. I wouldn't go crazy, but I've done plenty on a Gary Fisher Mendota and a Trek 7500fx and both are similar to this.I'm thinking about buying a Specialized Crosstrail Disc but I'm hesitant about buying a "hybrid" like this. Do owners of such bikes feel that the compromises inherent to a hybrid limit their ability on either end of the spectrum (strictly road or strictly MTB)? Any long distance fatigue or easily bent wheels?
Link to Bike
I bought the 5 dollar one from MEC just the other day and it made my chain feel like brand new. It's a bit leaky as the bio cleaner they sell foams up a bit, but it's 5 bucks.
I just put some money down on a 2013 Specialized Sirrus in a sweet looking matte blue. I'll post some picks when I pick it up. I'm new to biking and my wife and I are getting into it for some exercise and recreation. Can any of you experianced riders recommend anything to help us get started. Also, she ordered a 2013 Specialized Myka.
If you don't mind paying a little more for your seat, a brooks saddle. Regular black B17s look pretty nice even on a roadbike, if you want some road rattle protection to go with it there's Champion flyers that come with huge springs for your butt. Also has mounting loops for Carradice bags, giant saddlebags that'll let you carry 30lbs of crap with you w/o any panniers involved.
Hey Bicycle-Gaf, I decided to get back into shape and have always enjoyed riding bikes... so I picked up a new ride last Saturday!
I've been sick of Wal-Mart/Canadian Tire bikes so I decided to do some research (some of which was this thread) and decided on a hybrid Trek FX 7.3 (black).
It's such an awesome bike!!
It's so nice to have a decent quality bike under me... something that doesn't weigh 60 pounds of heavy steel, lol.
I've been riding every day since getting it, and my butt is sore - I suspect things will toughen up back there in a week or two.
My model (everyone is familiar with it I'm sure):
Cheers all!
I've been sick of Wal-Mart/Canadian Tire bikes so I decided to do some research (some of which was this thread) and decided on a hybrid Trek FX 7.3 (black).
It's such an awesome bike!!
It's so nice to have a decent quality bike under me... something that doesn't weigh 60 pounds of heavy steel, lol.
I've been riding every day since getting it, and my butt is sore - I suspect things will toughen up back there in a week or two.
My model (everyone is familiar with it I'm sure):
Cheers all!
Get a nice gel seat. i cannot say this enough to people. You are causing completely unnecessary pain, for no reason beyond aesthetics. The value of a narrow light seat is probably important to a competitive cyclist, but comfort should be your first concern. Doesn't have to be some big couch on a stick. Try something like this:
Serfas makes fine seats and this one is fairly small. Net result is that after a fifty mile ride, my ass is not in tatters as it would be with the oem seat, or a road bike seat.
Rather than just buy a new saddle, ask to be fitted by the shop where you bought the bike from and bring up your complaints during the fitting. If the pain persists after riding with different seat heights, angles, and other adjustments (as suggested during the fitting) for a significant amount of time, then it may be time to look for a new saddle.
I think buying a super soft gel seat is just a band aid anyways. Get to the root of the problem.
cstretten: read this, especially the first part
I think buying a super soft gel seat is just a band aid anyways. Get to the root of the problem.
cstretten: read this, especially the first part
I was fitted (I hope correctly) at the shop. I am new to this "level" of cycling 
I realize that the OEM saddle for this bike in particular has had it's share of complaints and is a common first-upgrade, but I am unused to biking regularly at this point - I expect there to be some growing pains.
If things don't get better in a couple of weeks I will consider upgrading the saddle.
As it is, the pain goes away after a while after getting back on - so far it isn't debilitating and preventing me from riding or anything.
- Ameratsu -
Thanks for the link!
I have read many of Sheldon's articles/posts - lots of good info there and primarily the reason I am not freaking out about my saddle until I know if it's me or the seat itself.
Cheers!
I realize that the OEM saddle for this bike in particular has had it's share of complaints and is a common first-upgrade, but I am unused to biking regularly at this point - I expect there to be some growing pains.
If things don't get better in a couple of weeks I will consider upgrading the saddle.
As it is, the pain goes away after a while after getting back on - so far it isn't debilitating and preventing me from riding or anything.
- Ameratsu -
Thanks for the link!
I have read many of Sheldon's articles/posts - lots of good info there and primarily the reason I am not freaking out about my saddle until I know if it's me or the seat itself.
Cheers!
I'm restoring a couple of old vintage bikes for me and my wife. Nothing special. Her's is an old Brittany Free Spirit we found at thrift and mine one of my late-brother's bikes that have been sitting inside at my parents house for the last 30 years. I have absolutely no idea what it is. Apparently my brother spent a small fortune on it. SunRace derailleur, Fromos levers, Wellgo pedals, non-lugged frame. I'm guessing its high-tier 70s or 80s department store (which my wife's bike is) or low-tier bike shop.
Either way, it's in pretty great shape aside from surface rust. They both need new tires, tubes, and brake pads, of course, but aside from that I'll be upgrading the parts myself one at a time. It definitely needs a new seat.
My wife is going to make us both some panniers for it. I'll post pics of mine in parts later.
Either way, it's in pretty great shape aside from surface rust. They both need new tires, tubes, and brake pads, of course, but aside from that I'll be upgrading the parts myself one at a time. It definitely needs a new seat.
My wife is going to make us both some panniers for it. I'll post pics of mine in parts later.
We need more info to really help you out. What sort of riding are you going to do? What needs do you have or think that you have?
My initial guess would be you are wanting to mountain bike (because you are asking about suspension and disc brakes). My honest answer would be that, no, you can't get much in the way of suspension and disc brakes for under $1000.
Your best bet under $1000 would be something with mechanical disc brakes and front suspension only. At the point that you are only paying $1000 for full suspension and hydraulic disc brakes, you are getting shorted somewhere . . . mostly likely on the frame AND on the components.
Guileless
Temp Banned for Remedial Purposes
Pics?
Wax Free Vanilla
Member
:cry
I didn't see that mini crater until it was too late, bam! £80 out of pocket
some of the roads around here are an absolute disgrace.
Get a nice gel seat. i cannot say this enough to people. You are causing completely unnecessary pain, for no reason beyond aesthetics. The value of a narrow light seat is probably important to a competitive cyclist, but comfort should be your first concern. Doesn't have to be some big couch on a stick. Try something like this:
Serfas makes fine seats and this one is fairly small. Net result is that after a fifty mile ride, my ass is not in tatters as it would be with the oem seat, or a road bike seat.
I seriously need a new seat for mine. The seat on my Trek Mendota hurts like hell.
Oppo
Member
:cry
I didn't see that mini crater until it was too late, bam! £80 out of pocket
some of the roads around here are an absolute disgrace.
indeed.
if its any consolation, your pictures of the tire/rim damage are gorgeous.
As soon as I can get some taken with a decent camera, I'll post 'em.
Gaf, I'm looking to buy a bike, but I do not know the difference between a bad bike and a good bike. I am completely clueless. I'm only planning to use it on trails in the Summer. My friend is asking me if I want to buy this brand new bike off of him. He is asking me to make him an offer, but I do not how much to offer. http://www.amway.com/Shop/Product/Product.aspx/Shogun-21-speed-Mountain-Bike?itemno=749746 Yes, he is part of Amway, unfortunately. He is a good guy, though. They have it listed for $200 but I am skeptical of the quality because well...it's Amway. So help me out.
New bikes at the $200 price point are generally going to be bad. Looking at the bike you linked to, you get a low-quality frame, a throwaway front fork, and various poor quality generic parts throughout. Not only do bikes like these not last, but there is only one size offered, when you want to buy a bike that's properly sized for you.
Assuming you want a bike to ride, as opposed to a bike bought with good intentions but just sits around, look to spend at least $400-$500 on a new bike. If you buy used, you can generally find some good bikes around the ~$200 mark if you are in or near a fairly large city. What sort of bike would work best will take some research and narrowing-down on your part.
We have some folks here who work in bike shops as well who could probably direct you further than I could.
Lasthope106
Member
opticalmace
Member
That Sirrus looks great! What is the weight on it?
I just got a rack and pannier(s) for my bike. Tried it out today, really awesome not having to carry a backpack! A bit weird with how heavy the rear is now, but not a big deal.
Will post a pic soon.
I just got a rack and pannier(s) for my bike. Tried it out today, really awesome not having to carry a backpack! A bit weird with how heavy the rear is now, but not a big deal.
Will post a pic soon.
outunderthestars
Banned
1. Stock saddles are garbage. They are designed to be inexpensive and disposable as everyone has different preferences in terms of comfort. Ask your shop if they have any loaner/demo saddles you can try.
2. In terms of road bikes, what are you looking to get out of your bike? Do you want to race? ride for long distance? high speeds? etc. This will help me give you advice. Above $1000 in road bikes there really aren't "bad" bikes, just different.
Ride them both.
If you think the 7.3FX is harsh on your ass, you will love the CAAD10.
I love my CAAD10, but it is a racy aluminum bike, it is not an exceptionally comfortable bike. I can do 60 milers without too many issues, but I'm not especially looking forward to my upcoming century training.
Lasthope106
Member
This week I'm stopping at my LBS to see if I can get a loan saddle. This problem is now at the point that is affecting my performance since my legs can still go further but I just can't stand sitting.
I want a starter road bike for longer rides that is durable (long term 10+ years). Carbon bikes at this point seem like overkill because I'm not at the point where I can benefit from their advantages. Also, I'm paranoid that carbon bikes are more prone to damage. This might seem like a chromoly touring bike is a better choice for me, but I haven't liked any of the ones I've seen with the possible exception of the Trek 520, but the color sucks.
Ride them both.
If you think the 7.3FX is harsh on your ass, you will love the CAAD10.
I love my CAAD10, but it is a racy aluminum bike, it is not an exceptionally comfortable bike. I can do 60 milers without too many issues, but I'm not especially looking forward to my upcoming century training.
My goal before it starts snowing this year is to do a century. Would you get a different bike if you had the chance?
outunderthestars
Banned
As a diehard Randonneur I think I can be of some help.
First, lets start with your ass. What kind of shorts are you wearing when you ride? How often are you getting out of the saddle?
Now, about the bike. You want durable and comfortable. That rules out that Cannondale on both counts. That model of Canondale is a race geometry bike. That makes it light, nimble, fast and uncomfortable as hell after 30 miles.
There are some really comfortable, lighter weight steel bikes out there that are perfect for riding distance. When I ran a bike shop I loved, Jamis and Surly for those kind of bikes:
Jamis Satellite Comp $1000. A great entry level road bike capable of all day riding.
The upgraded version is the Jamis Quest $around 1500 - $1600 in shops.
If you can swing it, I cannot stress how awesome this bike is...... It's my favorite all around road bike on the market today. Light, responsive, comfortable and stable. The geometry and hand position make it a dream for long rides.
Another alternative that almost all shops can get is the Surly Pacer.
I once road one of these on a 1200KM race/brevet and was quite impressed with it. Shops can usually get you one for about $1100. They can be tricky to get fitted properly, so make sure that the shop has experience with Surly.
One more option, which I love (except for the awful color for the last 2 years) is the Salsa Casseroll.
It's comfy, responsive, and works well for light touring as well as distance riding.
Hope this helped. I spent seven years selling bicycles for people interested in distance riding/touring/adventure cycling so I have sold dozens of each of those bikes and know them well.
I am about to pull the trigger on a bikesdirect.com bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst_al_carb_x.htm
I realize this website draws a lot of discussion from high praise to heavy scorn; however, I just need this bike to kick around town and commute to work a few days a week (15 miles each way). Anyway, I come to ask a sizing question. If I am between sizes 58cm v. 60cm, should I err on the side of smaller or larger? I easily clear the standover height on both sizes but was concerned on how "stretched" I would be on the larger frame.
For reference, I'm 6'1-6'2" and ride a 59cm Lemond on longer road rides.
I realize this website draws a lot of discussion from high praise to heavy scorn; however, I just need this bike to kick around town and commute to work a few days a week (15 miles each way). Anyway, I come to ask a sizing question. If I am between sizes 58cm v. 60cm, should I err on the side of smaller or larger? I easily clear the standover height on both sizes but was concerned on how "stretched" I would be on the larger frame.
For reference, I'm 6'1-6'2" and ride a 59cm Lemond on longer road rides.
outunderthestars
Banned
That is a somewhat expensive single speed. Have you looked at Jamis
Or the Trek:
How flat is your commute? a 15 mile ride to work on a track back is going to leave you rather sweaty. Any reason why you're going with a track geometry? Not sure why you'd want a track bike for commuting: you can't use fenders or a rack, and the geometry of the bike is designed for closed course racing, not maneuvering in an urban environment.
If you're really interested in commuting. Take a good look at the Trek 7.1
Will run you the same as the bikes direct model, is much more flexible, and is a substantially better machine. If you end up going with the BD track bike, go with the smaller size. it is easier to fit someone to a slightly smaller bike than it is a larger one.
No, I'm very happy with it, but it isn't a comfort bike.
I also have no issues with 30 mile rides on my CAAD. Of course I'm not sitting with all my weight on my saddle either.
I know some people will find this ridiculous, but if you are going to be spending so much on a fixed speed, it just seems wiser to find an older road bike on craigslist and just convert it yourself. Bikes are simple as all hell to tear down and build back up.
I guess most people just don't want/have the time to do it which makes perfect sense. And hell, as long as they are on a bicycle and off the sidewalks all is well with the world!
I guess most people just don't want/have the time to do it which makes perfect sense. And hell, as long as they are on a bicycle and off the sidewalks all is well with the world!
GamePnoy74
Member
I'd like to add that Raleigh also has a great lineup of steel road bikes as well. I have their 2010 Record Ace road bike which I use for long rides (I completed my first century just last month with it =) and a 2012 Furley single-speed cyclocross bike which I use as my commuter.
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/
One thing, though, is that their 2012 Record Ace is pretty disappointing compared to my 2010 model...they've downgraded the drivetrain from Shimano Ultegra to 105 (105 is very good in itself but still a downgrade!) and switched out the awesome Brooks Swallow leather racing saddle for their own in-house generic leather one...AND STILL PRICED IT THE SAME (about $1800 retail).
outunderthestars
Banned
Raleigh does make some awesome bikes. downspec'ing is commonplace as Shimano continues to push across the board 10-20% increases to manufacturers on an annual basis.
The Raleigh Clubman was always my favorite of theirs. An amazingly cool bike for around $1100
Backwards Marathon
Member
Just got a new bike today, nothing too special but an improvement on the piece of crap I had. Rode it about 10 miles today with my roommate as a trial run. I will definitely be biking more in the near future.
davidnic
Member
My bike was stolen last night.
WTF didn't you lock it up or put it away?
Both of those things are never a 100% deterrent from bicycle theft.
Musha_Soturi
Member
My bloke just bought a meta sx
I'm not sure I like the colour but it's growing on me. Rides like a dream though, beeeautiful bike.
I'm not sure I like the colour but it's growing on me. Rides like a dream though, beeeautiful bike.
SnakeswithLasers
Member
Hey guys--looking to get a bike to commute on (just a couple miles of road, but it's mostly uphill) and to also take out on the weekend for longer rides (all road riding, but the ability to take a trail or two wouldn't be bad).
It looks like a lot of people have similar needs but different price ranges. So I'm wondering if anyone can say what the reliable brands/builds are in the following general price ranges (assuming you just want to get something new at a shop).
<$500
$500-700
$700-1000
$1000-1500
Also, IN GENERAL for casual/entry riders, is the premium price point on a "2012" bike really worth it over the "2011" models?
It looks like a lot of people have similar needs but different price ranges. So I'm wondering if anyone can say what the reliable brands/builds are in the following general price ranges (assuming you just want to get something new at a shop).
<$500
$500-700
$700-1000
$1000-1500
Also, IN GENERAL for casual/entry riders, is the premium price point on a "2012" bike really worth it over the "2011" models?
In general no, you are better off saving the money and getting the 2011.
GamePnoy74
Member
The 2013 models are just around the corner so LBSs will start slashing prices on 2012s very soon, if not now.
SnakeswithLasers
Member
Cool--either of you have suggestions on the $5-700 category of road/hybrid/commuters?
^ In the $500-$700 price range, there isn't going to be a lot of difference between similar models offered by different brands. Your best bet is to figure out what brands your local bike shops sell, then go on manufacturer's websites to identify models you are interested in. When you actually visit a bike shop, you should already have decent idea of what's out there, so it will only be a matter of determining if you like the service you get, asking any questions you have, and test riding the bikes you are interested in.
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