Man this game feels dead.
A few minutes later:
Timing is everything. GW2 is no exception.
Something I recommend if you want to see what your server's real population is at any time, other than hanging out in Lion's Arch, is to use a site like this:
http://us.gw2stuff.com/en/events/gandara and go to the various World Events that are big draws, like Fire Elemental, Karka Queen, Inquest Golem, Shadow Behemoth, etc.
There's usually a huge, hidden zerg jumping from event to event, and it's like a hurricane when they roll in on a WE about to start.
But as others have said, Edge of the Mists is the new draw so I'd be surprised if you don't get put into overflow when you go there, no matter the time - though I don't know much about EU's general population flows. Even in NA, East Coast, if I log on during the day during work hours, the population feels very low. But the instant 7pm reset hits, it's overflows as far as the eye can see anywhere where things happen, like Marionette and on Fridays, even Lion's Arch.
I do agree that the various racial home cities are problematic in that with LA there, there's no real reason to go to any. I'd always hoped they'd give each city a super-unique feature to flavour them and spread the population out a bit.
Black Citadel already has a fully built arena designed for one vs one fighting - why is that not used to allow players to 1v1 in PvE, using a queue system not unlike what we had for the Queen's Pavilion? Winner stays, loser goes. No rewards, just prestige and working the crowd.
Hoelbrak's draw used to be Keg Brawl, but now with that in the Activities rotation and the NPC still disabled in Hoelbrak itself, it lost that. Not sure what would be a good feature or function the city could be for.
And so on - if each city had a unique function only found there, the population would be a bit more spread out across them.