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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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R

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Hazaro said:
Post make and model of your current.
Otherwise the two PSU's in the OP.
Click to expand...

No idea. It has no brand markings. It's just the one that came with my system. It's a Dell XPS 420. From what I hear those use standard ATX PSUs.
 
Z

Zzoram

Member
RedSwirl said:
No idea. It has no brand markings. It's just the one that came with my system. It's a Dell XPS 420. From what I hear those use standard ATX PSUs.
Click to expand...

The Dell XPS 420 had a 380W PSU if you got the 8800GT with it.
 
M

MisterAnderson

Member
MikeE21286 said:
Get this one instead

SAMSUNG P2770HD. Nearly the same monitor except it also has a TV and it's on sale today only so it's cheaper !
Click to expand...

Too late :( got this other one at Fry's already. They match prices but it's closed now, and I'd have to go in and exchange this version for the TV tuner version I'd imagine so it would be a huge production (which I'd do if I had time but it's closed and I'm not sure if they match promo prices like that?) But yeah, 60 dollars off... fuck. Although mine has 1ms response time and that one has 5ms...weird.

I kind of hate the idea of ordering anything LCD off the internet anyway cause if there's dead pixels you can only return them if there's like... more than 5 or something. And then you have to deal with mailing it out and shit.
 
·

·feist·

Member
For anyone who's interested, Micro Center is running some nice deals for the next 3 weeks.


fc7j1l.jpg
$24.57 - NZXT Beta Evo
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0322005

2zjjd5c.jpg
$32.99 - Cooler Master 341
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0305925

41qqS4cjI7L._SL500_SS75_.jpg
$34.99 - Cooler Master Elite 430
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0339423

dv51i.jpg
$50.82 - Cooler Master HAF 912
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0343331

414elSo6vtL._AA75_.jpg
$72.99 - Cooler Master Storm Scout
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0308296

2igjdkn.jpg
$81.99 - Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0328082

259lhlz.jpg
$149.99 - Corsair 600T
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0343072

sws574.jpg
$159.99 - Cooler Master HAF X
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/042f0ae6#/042f0ae6/36


Also this:


51czGKRyQZL._AA75_.jpg
$23.99 - Cooler Master Hyper 212+
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397
 
N

Negator

Member
Apparantly, there is a massive debacle going on in OCZ's forums regarding their SSDs. OCZ switched from 34nm NAND to 25nm NAND flash, and people are reporting write speed drops up to 43%, as well as lower SSD capacity. It is quite possible that you may run into issues if you try to combine the different drives in a RAID 0 array.

The main problem is that they switched without warning, and are essentially charging the same price for lower quality hardware.

Here's a news link as well.
 
K

knitoe

Member
Negator said:
Apparantly, there is a massive debacle going on in OCZ's forums regarding their SSDs. OCZ switched from 34nm NAND to 25nm NAND flash, and people are reporting write speed drops up to 43%, as well as lower SSD capacity. It is quite possible that you may run into issues if you try to combine the different drives in a RAID 0 array.

The main problem is that they switched without warning, and are essentially charging the same price for lower quality hardware.
Click to expand...
I read that the other day. Apparently, if you have an E, example 2VTXE60G, in the product ID you could have the new 25nm NAND flash that severely affects write speeds. Need to check available space to truly know. I was luckly to have the "E," but still have 34nm NAND because I have ~56GB vs ~50GB. Unless you know for sure, I would suggest people stay away from OCZ SSD for now.
 
N

Negator

Member
knitoe said:
I read that the other day. Apparently, if you have an E, example 2VTXE60G, in the product ID you could have the new 25nm NAND flash that severely affects write speeds. Need to check available space to truly know. I was luckly to have the "E," but still have 34nm NAND because I have ~56GB vs ~50GB. Unless you know for sure, I would suggest people stay away from OCZ SSD for now.
Click to expand...

Looks like I need to take this thing off my wish list. Is there anything with similar performance to the old OCZ Vertex 2?
 
K

knitoe

Member
Negator said:
Looks like I need to take this thing off my wish list. Is there anything with similar performance to the old OCZ Vertex 2?
Click to expand...
All the SSD with sandforce performs about the same, but definitely, check to see if they are still using the old 34nm or new 25nm NAND before buying. It's affects everybody and that's why even Intel is delay releasing their 25nm SSD.
 
S

Snuggles

erotic butter maelstrom
I'm having a strange graphics issues with The Witcher: Enhanced Edition. For some reason Geralt is all black except for his eyes. It's like his character model isn't there. I tried to tweak it but then almost everything in the game went black.

weird
 
A

Angelus Errare

Banned
Snuggler said:
I'm having a strange graphics issues with The Witcher: Enhanced Edition. For some reason Geralt is all black except for his eyes. It's like his character model isn't there. I tried to tweak it but then almost everything in the game went black.

weird
Click to expand...

Did you use radeonpro/nvidia inspector to force AA and AF by chance?
 
S

Snuggles

erotic butter maelstrom
Angelus Errare said:
Did you use radeonpro/nvidia inspector to force AA and AF by chance?
Click to expand...

No, I haven't done any tweaking like that. It's back to normal after I restarted it. At first I thought he was supposed to be all black, lol.
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
LiquidMetal14 said:
Set a custom fan profile in MSI Afterburner and temps have capped at 75C. This is with a flashed 6950->6970 and 925/1425mhz. Using FURMARK with 8x MSAA, windowed 1080p res, and xtreme burning mode.
Click to expand...
How did you get overdrive to give you those speeds? Mine is lcapped at 840/1325
 
V

VibratingDonkey

Member
RIP CRT. Such an annoying shame that the market wanted form factor over quality.

I've been looking a bit at monitors to replace my 17" CRT as it can only do 1024x768@85hz. For my planned future BF3 PC it'd be a right proper bottleneck. But display technology is totally stupid. It'd be nice if someone could help shortcut me past researching all the panel, response time, viewing angle, color reproduction, flaws etc. nonsense.

20-24"
0-2500:- ($0-250)
Sweden
I'm planning to use it for things such as looking at it.
What are the least bad options?
 
T

thomaser

Member
I asked earlier in the thread about a good pc for working with many different programs at the same time, no gaming. I got an answer, but since then I've got a new quote on a system that seems good to me. Does this look good to YOU? Keep in mind that I have no clue at all about these things:

CPU: Intel CPU Quad Core i5 750 (2.66GHz) Socket-1156 1333MHz 8MB Cache 64bit 95W
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3, P55, Socket-1156 4xDDR3, ATX, GbLAN, USB3.0, PCI-Ex(2.0)x16
Case: Nexus Clodius Ventilated System PC Case
GPU: Gigabyte VGA-Card nVidia GTX460 768MB PCI-E 2xDVI HDMI HDCP PhysX CUDA DDR5
Harddisk: Samsung 1TB 7200RPM SATAII 3.0Gb NoiseGuard SilentSeek 32MB Spinpoint F3
SSD: Intel X25-M SATAII SSD 80GB
Memory: Kingston 8GB RAMKit 2x4GB HyperX DDR3
Power: Fortron-Source 500W 12cm fan
Blu-ray reader/DVD writer: Samsung Blu-Ray Combo 12x SATA Lightscribe Internal

I plan to install all the big programs on the SSD, keep my large music collection on the harddisk I have now, and use the new harddisk for everything else. I use two screens.

Would this let me have Opera, Photoshop, Illustrator, IE, Itunes and Excel up at the same time, painlessly? I plan to upgrade my Adobe-programs and start dabbling in Premiere and After Effects too - would they run well on this? I also bought MessiahStudio5 Pro during the sale. Don't know if I will use it much, but can I use it with this? I'm especially curious about the GPU. I really have no idea if it's good enough, not good enough or way overkill.

Lastly, I'd like this to be a good system for a fairly long time. I've had my current pc for 6 or 7 years.

And... is there something important that is not on the list? A media reader, probably... anything else?

Thanks in advance for any comments.
 
N

Naked Snake

Member
Went ahead and got the 2500 and H67 board, and luckily the HDDs that were labelled Maxtor on their system turned out to be Seagate Barracuda 7200.12, so I snatched 2x500GB. Got the whole bunch at kickass bargain price. The only bummer was they only had a single 4GB RAM stick left, now I need to look for a matching stick elsewhere.

Still have to buy a case, PSU, and monitor.

Excitement mounting!

Since this rig will partly serve as an HTPC, I'm looking for a wireless KB/mouse combo thingy. Perhaps a Keyboard with a built-in trackpad/ball? Are there any good ones that work both wired and wireless?
 
W

Wazzim

Banned
VibratingDonkey said:
RIP CRT. Such an annoying shame that the market wanted form factor over quality.

I've been looking a bit at monitors to replace my 17" CRT as it can only do 1024x768@85hz. For my planned future BF3 PC it'd be a right proper bottleneck. But display technology is totally stupid. It'd be nice if someone could help shortcut me past researching all the panel, response time, viewing angle, color reproduction, flaws etc. nonsense.

20-24"
0-2500:- ($0-250)
Sweden
I'm planning to use it for things such as looking at it.
What are the least bad options?
Click to expand...
Maybe get an used one? I got a Compaq for free that can do 1600x1200@75HZ.
 
F

FoxSpirit

Junior Member
VibratingDonkey said:
RIP CRT. Such an annoying shame that the market wanted form factor over quality.

I've been looking a bit at monitors to replace my 17" CRT as it can only do 1024x768@85hz. For my planned future BF3 PC it'd be a right proper bottleneck. But display technology is totally stupid. It'd be nice if someone could help shortcut me past researching all the panel, response time, viewing angle, color reproduction, flaws etc. nonsense.

20-24"
0-2500:- ($0-250)
Sweden
I'm planning to use it for things such as looking at it.
What are the least bad options?
Click to expand...

There are only bad options compared to a CRT at the point you are looking at.
positive: much less eyestrain, less radiation, less power draw, more healthy
negative: everything else

edit: or are you looking for a CRT in that rnge?
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
VibratingDonkey said:
RIP CRT.
Click to expand...

good riddance CRT. Zappy static electric shock fucker, fucked up geometry, can't even keep the image straight when there is too much white on the screen ffs. Taking up my entire room with your mammoth size and weight.
 
V

vazel

Banned
mrklaw said:
good riddance CRT. Zappy static electric shock fucker, fucked up geometry, can't even keep the image straight when there is too much white on the screen ffs. Taking up my entire room with your mammoth size and weight.
Click to expand...
That's dude to a cheap voltage regulator. A good quality CRT does not have that issue.
 
F

Frankfurter

Member
VibratingDonkey said:
RIP CRT. Such an annoying shame that the market wanted form factor over quality.

I've been looking a bit at monitors to replace my 17" CRT as it can only do 1024x768@85hz. For my planned future BF3 PC it'd be a right proper bottleneck. But display technology is totally stupid. It'd be nice if someone could help shortcut me past researching all the panel, response time, viewing angle, color reproduction, flaws etc. nonsense.

20-24"
0-2500:- ($0-250)
Sweden
I'm planning to use it for things such as looking at it.
What are the least bad options?
Click to expand...


This might a bit over your price limit (it's like ~220€ shipped in Germany), but it should definitely help you to forget your CRT: Dell UltraSharp U2311H
23", IPS panel (!), i.e. not the usual TN crap, low power consumption, 1920x1080.
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Aruarian Reflection said:
There's a Asus GTX 460 1GB for $120 after $30 mail-in rebate. I was leaning towards getting the 560 Ti but at half the price, this seems to be a great buy. Anything with this card I should be wary about? Seems like people are saying it's rather big in size; how can I check if it'll fit in a Fractal R3 that I don't own yet?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...391&cm_re=asus_gtx_460-_-14-121-391-_-Product
Click to expand...

Just got one.

I'm upgrading from a GTX 260 core216 so it's only like a 30% bump for me, but I can probably make all my money back selling the 260 on craigslist. Such a good deal. I too was waiting for the 560 TI but the money's too good on this one. (also my monitor maxes @ 1680x1050 so I don't need anything beefier at this point in time)
 
M

mrklaw

MrArseFace
vazel said:
That's dude to a cheap voltage regulator. A good quality CRT does not have that issue.
Click to expand...

usually the poor little LCD has to sit there while it gets shat on by CRT-leet types. So spare me a little OTT hyperbole :)
 
N

Naked Snake

Member
Noob question: Do I need to connect both power and data cables to SATA HDDs? The drives didn't come with any cables, and the motherboard came with data cables only. On the drive itself it shows a diagram to connect both power and data cables, but in the motherboard manual it only says to connect the data cables. Which is it?
 
T

Terproerg

Member
So i cant a get a break. The new motherboard i bought shorted out and now i have to rma it. Now my old motherboard will not post or beep or anything. It had a bug in the bios that kept the oc genie unusable and i found it annoying cause the text string kept getting longer.

So now i put the old one back in with the stock fan and thermal paste and all that stuff. But now it wont post at all. do you guys know of any reason this could be? Also where can i buy some thermal paste in toronto's west end?
 
M

Majeh

Member
Naked Snake said:
Noob question: Do I need to connect both power and data cables to SATA HDDs? The drives didn't come with any cables, and the motherboard came with data cables only. On the drive itself it shows a diagram to connect both power and data cables, but in the motherboard manual it only says to connect the data cables. Which is it?
Click to expand...

the power cable is a connector that comes from your power supply, looks like this:

satapower.jpg


The data cable should be from the drive to the motherboard.
 
K

knitoe

Member
Naked Snake said:
Noob question: Do I need to connect both power and data cables to SATA HDDs? The drives didn't come with any cables, and the motherboard came with data cables only. On the drive itself it shows a diagram to connect both power and data cables, but in the motherboard manual it only says to connect the data cables. Which is it?
Click to expand...
Yes. You need both. Data cable comes with the MB while power cable comes from the PSU.
 
K

knitoe

Member
Terproerg said:
So i cant a get a break. The new motherboard i bought shorted out and now i have to rma it. Now my old motherboard will not post or beep or anything. It had a bug in the bios that kept the oc genie unusable and i found it annoying cause the text string kept getting longer.

So now i put the old one back in with the stock fan and thermal paste and all that stuff. But now it wont post at all. do you guys know of any reason this could be? Also where can i buy some thermal paste in toronto's west end?
Click to expand...
Maybe, something in your case that is shorting out the MB. Take the MB out of the case and see if you can get cpu fan speed to run with just MB, CPU, heatsink/fan and 1 stick of ram. If you can, put it back into the case and test again. If it continues to work, start adding one device at a time and re-test.
 
K

knitoe

Member
Terproerg said:
all fans and the motherboard lights lite up, its just it wont post/beep and there is nothing after it.
Click to expand...
Dis attach as many devices as possible. Try moving 1 stick of ram around. Try onboard or video card. There's a chance this MB is shot too.
 
B

BrassMonkey1010

Member
Can anyone put together a budget gaming pc for my cousin. He wants to spend about $5-600 if possible. I have been out of the pc loop since summer, not quite sure what the best deals are.
 
S

Shambles

Member
Terproerg said:
all fans and the motherboard lights lite up, its just it wont post/beep and there is nothing after it.
Click to expand...

Did you plug in the power connections for bother the 24 PIN and 4/8PIN on the motherboard? The big one powers the motherboard, the small one powers the CPU.
 
J

jonremedy

Member
vazel said:
That's dude to a cheap voltage regulator. A good quality CRT does not have that issue.
Click to expand...

A good quality LCD isn't as shit as people in here think it is. It's just that everyone wants to spend as little as possible for as high a size and resolution as they can get. Image quality be damned! (while still longing for the 50 kg CRTs of course)
 
D

dekjo

Member
BrassMonkey1010 said:
Can anyone put together a budget gaming pc for my cousin. He wants to spend about $5-600 if possible. I have been out of the pc loop since summer, not quite sure what the best deals are.
Click to expand...

FWIW, anandtech just did their budget build, but it isn't gaming specific. Not a big fan of it, though. I'd skip the SSD and maybe use some of that money for a better GPU.

Can also always check out PC Perspectives budget builds for some ideas.
 
V

VibratingDonkey

Member
Wazzim said:
Maybe get an used one? I got a Compaq for free that can do 1600x1200@75HZ.
Click to expand...
I looked and there is one that seems alright and may or may not be available for delivery. A Viewsonic P227F, 21" and capable of 2048x1536@79Hz, 1600x1200@99Hz.

If that doesn't pan out I'll definitely keep an eye out. As I may have implied, I'm not in a rush.
FoxSpirit said:
There are only bad options compared to a CRT at the point you are looking at.
positive: much less eyestrain, less radiation, less power draw, more healthy
negative: everything else

edit: or are you looking for a CRT in that rnge?
Click to expand...
I have little actual experience with LCD monitors, but from what I've heard I'd probably prefer a CRT, but I don't know if there's a point in recommending a particular model as it's entirely dependent on availability in the used market.
Frankfurter said:
This might a bit over your price limit (it's like ~220€ shipped in Germany), but it should definitely help you to forget your CRT: Dell UltraSharp U2311H
23", IPS panel (!), i.e. not the usual TN crap, low power consumption, 1920x1080.
Click to expand...
It's just within my projected budget. The Dell 2209WA is exactly the same price. 1" smaller, 1680x1050, but it's got an e-IPS panel.
 
T

TheExodu5

Banned
dekjo said:
FWIW, anandtech just did their budget build, but it isn't gaming specific. Not a big fan of it, though. I'd skip the SSD and maybe use some of that money for a better GPU.

Can also always check out PC Perspectives budget builds for some ideas.
Click to expand...

It's pretty much perfect for a non-gaming or moderate gaming build. The money is far better spent on the SSD as opposed to a higher powered video card. That PC will feel 10x faster on desktop applications with an SSD.
 
N

Naked Snake

Member
Was reading reviews of the HDDs I bought today, very pleased with the reports, sounds perfect for my needs (fast throughput, low power, temp and noise). Only weakness is seektime:

Conclusion
We're happy with the 7200.12 series so far. Performance is great in most areas, besting the 7200.11 series 1.5TB drive and the Velociraptor in some tests. The power consumption and temps are also an improvement over the previous generation of drives, and they are rather impressive as you saw in the results.

This drive isn't the greatest boot drive due to the somewhat lackluster seek times, but it's perfect for a data drive. It's also the perfect choice for an "all around" drive for budget builds and/or low power builds, since partitioning correctly will make seek performance a little better on your boot partition.
Click to expand...

Can someone explain what he means by "paritioning correctly"? I have two 500GB drives and will be running Windows 7. How large should I make the boot parition for best performance? Is it better to install applications on the boot parition or different one?
 
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