• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dynoro

Member
Moobabe said:
I figure that this is the best place to ask this; I bought a PC about 4 months ago but and have just recently started to have problems. Almost EVERY game I run crashes - I can still play but the crashes come at random intervals - and I'm getting at LEAST 2 BSOD every day - specifically Memory Management and Bad_Pool_Header/Bad_Page_Header ones.

How do I ascertain what the problem is - are they related - and how can I go about fixing it?
Grab the Ultimate Boot CD and run the memory tests (specifically memtest) to check your RAM isn't damaged/corrupt. Also run one of the HDD tests to check for bad blocks on your HDD (but make sure it isn't a destructive scan) in case the drive is causing corruption errors. After that you'll know whether your RAM or HDD needs chucking in the bin
 
Corky said:
the zippyness of an SSD far surpasses the feeling of a new mobo/ram/cpu/whatever in certain aspects of daily pcusage :)

Those of you with SSDs, do you only keep the base windows installation installed on that drive? Do you install your games to the SSD?

I'm thinking about picking one up down the road since they are slowly getting cheaper.
 

Moobabe

Member
Dynoro said:
Grab the Ultimate Boot CD and run the memory tests (specifically memtest) to check your RAM isn't damaged/corrupt. Also run one of the HDD tests to check for bad blocks on your HDD (but make sure it isn't a destructive scan) in case the drive is causing corruption errors. After that you'll know whether your RAM or HDD needs chucking in the bin

That website is the most confusing thing ever! Do I just download Memtest - burn it to cd and start my pc with the cd in the drive? Also - what's a "destructive" scan?
 

1-D_FTW

Member
MikeDub said:
This. It's the simple things that really shine with an SSD, like your computer turning on/off in 20 seconds.

So it runs like XP? Cool.

Still seems like a complete waste of money when putting a computer to sleep takes 2 seconds to turn on/off.
 

Dynoro

Member
Moobabe said:
That website is the most confusing thing ever! Do I just download Memtest - burn it to cd and start my pc with the cd in the drive? Also - what's a "destructive" scan?
Just download the iso of the bootcd, burn and boot from that and choose memtest in the menu screen.

A destructive hdd scan is one that writes to the sectors of the drive (overwriting any data there) so if you are using the drive you would lose all your data.
 

shift J

Member
First time PC builder here!

So I just received the Samsung spinpoint F3 and an Asus optical drive and neither came with any SATA cables. I was wondering if I will have to purchase them seperately or if the Asus p8p67 board will come with all of the cables I need?

If I do have to buy them, any recommendations for brand or anything?

Thank you.
 

Draft

Member
1-D_FTW said:
So it runs like XP? Cool.

Still seems like a complete waste of money when putting a computer to sleep takes 2 seconds to turn on/off.
:lol :lol :lol

Yeah, Windows XP, performance champion of the computing world. What suckers we all were, moving to Windows 7.

SSDs are absolutely out of control fast. If you haven't put one in your system, you have no idea what you're missing.
 

Majeh

Member
shift J said:
First time PC builder here!

So I just received the Samsung spinpoint F3 and an Asus optical drive and neither came with any SATA cables. I was wondering if I will have to purchase them seperately or if the Asus p8p67 board will come with all of the cables I need?

If I do have to buy them, any recommendations for brand or anything?

Thank you.

Your motherboard should come with 2 or more sata cables.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
1-D_FTW said:
So it runs like XP? Cool.

Still seems like a complete waste of money when putting a computer to sleep takes 2 seconds to turn on/off.

Way faster than XP.

It'll run as fast as XP does straight from a reformat, all the time, even when you have a ton of apps on bootup.
 

Q8D3vil

Member
MisterAnderson said:
I got a gtx 580 and nvidia 3d vision. Holy crap Crysis 2, Arkham Asylum and Mirror's Edge looks and runs amazing in 1080p 3D.

sogood.gif

Going to go try like every game I own now. One thing though, how come wherever I try to download nHancer (even from the link in the OP) I get the same webpage error? It's like all the mirror's have been taken down...
so you got 3d monitor instead of trying 3d on your 3d tv ?
you should try bulletstorm, that game is insane in 3d

man, i really need to upgrade from my 295, all of my hopes rest in nvidia hand with their upcoming gtx 590.
if gtx 590 is crap i'm going with either tx570 or 560 2gb edition.
i got used to my gtx 295 sli issues and i learned how to deal with them.
 
BlueScrote said:
Those of you with SSDs, do you only keep the base windows installation installed on that drive? Do you install your games to the SSD?

I'm thinking about picking one up down the road since they are slowly getting cheaper.

Windows, small apps like browsers and Visual Studios are installed on the SSD. I had extra room so I installed a couple games to see how it effected load times, which it does improve significantly but obviously after the games load into memory the performance is the same. All other games and apps are installed on a separate 1TB drive and all Window's file libraries point to the 1TB drive. I still have over 50 GB of free space on my 120GB SSD.
 

cackhyena

Member
Wow brings me to the sign in screen literally 2 seconds after I hit the icon on my new SSD. I'm in the game after a total of maybe 8 to 10 seconds after the icon is hit ( depending on how fast I type my password). Blazing fast compared to my old HDD.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Flying_Phoenix said:
You think I'll need a second fan or will the huge extra space due to it being a micro board be enough?

Fans are pretty cheap - I'd recommend having one in the front and rear mounts at least.
 

verbum

Member
BlueScrote said:
Those of you with SSDs, do you only keep the base windows installation installed on that drive? Do you install your games to the SSD?

I'm thinking about picking one up down the road since they are slowly getting cheaper.


For anyone thinking about getting an SSD, read the following series by Ed Bott at ZDNet. Very informative and very good tips on installing and tweaking to use an SSD. Main points:
1. Before installing the SSD, hook it up via E SATA or as an extra drive in your computer. Check the firmware and upgrade if necessary before installing on it. You cannot upgrade the firmware after the OS is installed ( You actually can but most firmware update tools will not let you upgrade a primary drive since the OS is installed).
2. Then hook it up as the primary disk and change the SATA in the bios to AHCI for this drive.
3. Install the OS, let it update, add the user accounts, update the chipset drivers, etc. Then run Windows Experience Index (in the control panel). This will let WIN7 know it is a SSD and it will disable some features that do not need to be used on a SSD.
4. The third article shows how you can keep the drive optimized and keep it from getting filled up.

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/windows-7-and-ssds-just-how-fast-are-they/2902?tag=mantle_skin;content

I have an AMD x6 1055T CPU, an AMD 5770 GPU, 4 GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 ram, and an OCZ Agility 2 SSD. My Windows Experience Index is 7.4, the SSD rates as 7.7 and everything else rates 7.4.
 

mkenyon

Banned
pseudocaesar said:
Just requoting cos it got missed.

Looks good! Might want to consider holding off a month or two on the purchase for the AM3+ mobos to come out. Will allow you to upgrade the proc at a later date to Bulldozer.
 

cackhyena

Member
"4. The third article shows how you can keep the drive optimized and keep it from getting filled up. "

That's what i don't get, though, If you are moving those files to a secondary drive, won't it take longer to retrieve them once you need them? You know, since they are on the faster SSD now? Music, pictures and the like? Certain things that are on my old hdd, I have to wait a bit as I hear it spin back up after being idle for so long. Maybe I'm missing something here.
 

verbum

Member
cackhyena said:
"4. The third article shows how you can keep the drive optimized and keep it from getting filled up. "

That's what i don't get, though, If you are moving those files to a secondary drive, won't it take longer to retrieve them once you need them? You know, since they are on the faster SSD now? Music, pictures and the like? Certain things that are on my old hdd, I have to wait a bit as I hear it spin back up after being idle for so long. Maybe I'm missing something here.

Not on a SATA bus. And most media players load the libraries when they start up (in Windows).
Is the older drive a IDE drive? If you have a SATA chipset, I recommend a newer SATA drive. I saw a 1TB drive on slickdeals for $54 2 days ago. I paid $80 for a 2TB drive last week.
Edit: some drives on Amazon with good prices.
 

cackhyena

Member
Geez, I have no clue. It's the drive that came with this Core 2 Duo Dell. How do I tell? By the way, how awesome will it be when SSDs are those same ridiculously low prices for that kinda space?
 

mkenyon

Banned
cackhyena said:
Geez, I have no clue. It's the drive that came with this Core 2 Duo Dell. How do I tell? By the way, how awesome will it be when SSDs are those same ridiculously low prices for that kinda space?

IDE:

IDE%20Cable%202.jpg


SATA:

SATA-Signal-Cable-1.jpg


Check which type of cable is plugged into your HDD?
 

cackhyena

Member
Oh no, mine's SATA then. It wasn't too long ago I was dealing with it all with the installation of my SSD. Maybe I'll make the data switch for everything but my pics. My pics solely consist of paintings and reference I'm using daily for PS and Painter.
 

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
verbum said:
For anyone thinking about getting an SSD, read the following series by Ed Bott at ZDNet. Very informative and very good tips on installing and tweaking to use an SSD. Main points:
1. Before installing the SSD, hook it up via E SATA or as an extra drive in your computer. Check the firmware and upgrade if necessary before installing on it. You cannot upgrade the firmware after the OS is installed ( You actually can but most firmware update tools will not let you upgrade a primary drive since the OS is installed).
2. Then hook it up as the primary disk and change the SATA in the bios to AHCI for this drive.
3. Install the OS, let it update, add the user accounts, update the chipset drivers, etc. Then run Windows Experience Index (in the control panel). This will let WIN7 know it is a SSD and it will disable some features that do not need to be used on a SSD.
4. The third article shows how you can keep the drive optimized and keep it from getting filled up.

http://www.zdnet.com/blog/bott/windows-7-and-ssds-just-how-fast-are-they/2902?tag=mantle_skin;content

I have an AMD x6 1055T CPU, an AMD 5770 GPU, 4 GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 ram, and an OCZ Agility 2 SSD. My Windows Experience Index is 7.4, the SSD rates as 7.7 and everything else rates 7.4.

Thanks - I'll read up on this since I'm in the middle of a build right now with my first SSD.

One thing I will say however ... depending on the tools offered up by the manufacturer, you may not need to hook the SSD up to a different computer. For example I'm rocking an Intel X25-M S2, and one of the options for upgrading the firmware is to burn an ISO for the update. The image actually contains freeDOS along with the firmware tools. So in my case, I installed the SSD into the new build and booted with said ISO burned to CD in my BD drive. It then runs you through the firmware update easy as pie.

Basically check to see what tools are on offer before thinking you need to run out and buy extra shit just so you can do the update on a different PC. Obviously if you already have the capability, by all means do whichever method you prefer.
 

Raistlin

Post Count: 9999
Random side note ...


I bought one of those 64GB Crucial RealSSD C300's for $99.99 during that blowout at Newegg last month. However I decided I needed a little more space for my specific build and went with a larger drive.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148357


If anyone is interested in it send me a PM. I'll part with it at cost + shipping. It's new in box. Newegg only allows replacement, so I can't actually return the drive. Figure I'd throw it up here before trying to milk out a few extra bucks on ebay. :p
 

Artanisix

Member
Alright, so I really really want a surround sound system for my PC. I'm extremely new to the sound thing, but quality sound makes such a huge difference in movies and games to me that I am willing to put out some money and research into making quality choices. And I don't want headphones because friends and family like to come in and watch me play games like Amnesia.

Right now I'm thinking >this< speaker system (Logitech Z-5500) and >this< sound card (Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium). I don't want to exceed maybe $600-700 ideally, so these look affordable. Are there cheaper, quality alternatives?

Also, if this isn't the right thread, can someone direct me to one that is?
 

mkenyon

Banned
If you're getting a speaker setup that has it's own amp/sound control system, you don't really need a soundcard, as you'll be getting audio through optical which is a single source. I could be wrong on that, but that's my understanding.
 

Ecto311

Member
shift J said:
Tigerdirect.com has the B3 Asus p8p67 in stock for those still waiting... I just ordered one!

Same for microcenter in denver at least - called and they said it would be a month - that was yesterday. It is the standard and LE of the asus p8p67 board but I don't see enough differences between the standard and pro to worry about personally.
 

Shambles

Member
mkenyon said:
If you're getting a speaker setup that has it's own amp/sound control system, you don't really need a soundcard, as you'll be getting audio through optical which is a single source. I could be wrong on that, but that's my understanding.

You are correct. Digital is digital and the source doesn't matter, only the decoder at the end of the line handles how it is converted to audio. Soundcards only matter if you're using analog outs which is probably still a large proportion of PC users.
 

FatBaby

Member
Outdoor Miner said:
For gaming I would save $50 and go with a Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition. Take the $50 savings and use it to purchase an AMD 6950 instead of the 6870.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125356&cm_re=6950-_-14-125-356-_-Product

BAM, much better gaming rig for basically the same amount.

Thanks for the info. :)

Another forum I frequent recommending me this instead:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103894

Is there any noticeable difference between the one you mentioned, other than the price of course.
 

shift J

Member
Ecto311 said:
Same for microcenter in denver at least - called and they said it would be a month - that was yesterday. It is the standard and LE of the asus p8p67 board but I don't see enough differences between the standard and pro to worry about personally.



Same here, I decided to save $30 and get the standard version.
 

Trojita

Rapid Response Threadmaker
Anyone here know how much weaker a Q9450 overclocked to 3.2 GHz or 3.6 GHz would be to a current i7 processor?
 

CrankyJay

Banned
shift J said:
Tigerdirect.com has the B3 Asus p8p67 in stock for those still waiting... I just ordered one!

Heh, most are "ship within 48 - anywhere within a week to 3 weeks".

I'll wait a little. Still need to decide which one I want.
 

Deadstar

Member
Does anyone recommend one P67 board over another? I have an MSI board right now and while I haven't had many issues I wonder if there is a better brand out there. I will be buying a 2600k i7.
 

Wrekt

Member
Flying_Phoenix said:
So I changed my motherboard order from this to this.

Smart move because they are both Rev 3 boards right?
It depends on what you need. The LE version that you moved to has a PATA connector and 1 less SATA 6.0 ports. The LE also still has regular PCI ports while all the expansion slots on the pro are PCI-Express. Other than that, they are pretty comparable it looks like.
 
Trojita said:
Anyone here know how much weaker a Q9450 overclocked to 3.2 GHz or 3.6 GHz would be to a current i7 processor?
In the range of 30+% on average. In games you may be looking at ~7-12fps or so, depending on resolution. For titles with poor coding, archaic engines, and other CPU constrained issues, the difference is often pronounced.

At this point, opting for a Q9x50 (upgrade?) over a newer 1155 quad is really only advisable if you can get the C2Q for cheap and/or switching to 1155 would be prohibitively expensive in your country.



Deadstar said:
Does anyone recommend one P67 board over another? I have an MSI board right now and while I haven't had many issues I wonder if there is a better brand out there. I will be buying a 2600k i7.
MSI has actually had some of the most forward looking VRM design of any manufacturer. Along Asus and Gigabyte (top three board makers), the three have some solid boards in the $150-180 range. Like these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130574&cm_re=p67-_-13-130-574-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131682

and the Gigabyte UD3/UD4 models. At $200 you're mostly getting additional USB 3 and SATA ports. Above that you find mult-GPU and additional overclocking features that aren't needed by most users.

Just make sure to get a fixed/updated B3 1155 board.
 

mkenyon

Banned
FatBaby said:
Thanks for the info. :)

Another forum I frequent recommending me this instead:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103894

Is there any noticeable difference between the one you mentioned, other than the price of course.

Yep, 970 is their higher grade materials and can generally be overclocked more because the silicon is much better. Might max out at 3.6-3.8 on a 955, but just about every 970 can hit 4.0. Mine does it with a CM 212+ heatsink.

Outdoor Miner said:
Only difference is clock speed. The 955 can be overclocked to match 970 speeds if need be.

This is incorrect per the above.
 
Wrekt said:
It depends on what you need. The LE version that you moved to has a PATA connector and 1 less SATA 6.0 ports. The LE also still has regular PCI ports while all the expansion slots on the pro are PCI-Express. Other than that, they are pretty comparable it looks like.

So would the Pro board be better for this or will I see minimum gain?

EDIT - The LE has two PCI Express x16 slots.
 

FatBaby

Member
mkenyon said:
Yep, 970 is their higher grade materials and can generally be overclocked more because the silicon is much better. Might max out at 3.6-3.8 on a 955, but just about every 970 can hit 4.0. Mine does it with a CM 212+ heatsink.



This is incorrect per the above.


Ahh, alright. Thanks to both of you.

I'm not too interested in overclocking so maybe I'd go with just the 955 unless going with the 970 would offer me something more substantial as a standard install.
 

mkenyon

Banned
FatBaby said:
Ahh, alright. Thanks to both of you.

I'm not too interested in overclocking so maybe I'd go with just the 955 unless going with the 970 would offer me something more substantial as a standard install.

If you're not going to OC at all, then yeah, the 970 is a bit better. 3.2Ghz vs 3.5Ghz. If you're trying to reduce price though, the difference won't be substantial. It's a good place to cut costs.

LabouredSubterfuge said:
Does SATA III = 6gb/s?

Yes. SATA II = 3GB/S.
 

Wrekt

Member
Flying_Phoenix said:
So would the Pro board be better for this or will I see minimum gain?

EDIT - The LE has two PCI Express x16 slots.
There is no difference between the PCI Express slots (at least for your video card.)

Edit: They both support 2 card SLI. The Pro doesn't support triple SLI, so the 3rd PCI-E port is for non-video card. So basically grab the LE if you don't need more than 6 SATA ports and you'd rather have PCI expansion ports instead of PCI-E.
 
Wrekt said:
There is no difference between the PCI Express slots (at least for your video card.)

Edit: They both support 2 card SLI. The Pro doesn't support triple SLI, so the 3rd PCI-E port is for non-video card. So basically grab the LE if you don't need more than 6 SATA ports and you'd rather have PCI expansion ports instead of PCI-E.

Great. Looks like I made a fantastic choice! Thanks!

Also can anybody answer this for me please?

Flying_Phoenix said:
Also this Blu Ray drive says "bulk" does that mean it's practically an OEM where it doesn't come with any cable or no?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom