That's speedstep at work.
so it's ok/normal?
That's speedstep at work.
I changed my Mobo and it still happened and my ram, same thing.
Yup.so it's ok/normal?
Does 3.6Ghz sound better than 2.9Ghz? Seems like a big jump to me. That's almost direct % increase too.Are the gains from over clocking actually worth it? When built my rig two yers ago, I bought a ridiculous fan/heatsink for my i7 920 with the intent to over clock, but never did.
I have a gut feeling it's a driver issue in general. But the thing is, sometimes it's fine for a bit then other times it happens a lot. It was the most frustrating thing ever. Wish there was an actual fix for it :/
Are the gains from over clocking actually worth it? When built my rig two yers ago, I bought a ridiculous fan/heatsink for my i7 920 with the intent to over clock, but never did.
Lock it at 100.0 for stability for both.Ok I figured out how to enter the multiplier in the bios, do I need to adjust the bclk/pcie frequency? It's at 103, and the by all cores is set to 44.
I set that to 100. They were together as one setting.Lock it at 100.0 for stability for both.
There are OC guides in the OP that are really in depth.Ok I figured out how to enter the multiplier in the bios, do I need to adjust the bclk/pcie frequency? It's at 103, and the by all cores is set to 44.
Have you tried rolling back drivers?Yea, I did update my driver about a month ago, no dice.
That's what speedstep is, changes your multiplier based on current activity. If you want it at a single speed, you can disable it in BIOS.I set that to 100. They were together as one setting.
Is it normal for the it to be fluctuating between 100x44 and 100x16? Speed is doing this as well...1600.05 to 4400.14.
Anyone have an opinion on this power supply? Everything seems pretty good (besides the color..) just looking for a second opinion. Oh, and this RAM?
I'm going to try a clean install on the SSD again, then wipe my primary HDD and try to recover from my second HDD (the one with the back up).
There are OC guides in the OP that are really in depth.
Have you tried rolling back drivers?
Another option is to download furmark and msi afterburner. Up the voltage on your card, and see if it becomes stable while running furmark.
That's what speedstep is, changes your multiplier based on current activity. If you want it at a single speed, you can disable it in BIOS.
Pretty sure you could find a better deal than the Antec.
What about this?
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0358411
Here's a site compiling PSU reviews as well:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page541.htm
Dremel.Well...took the motherboard and everything out...and 2 standoffs are stuck in the screws and will not come off...:l
Supposedly you don't want to disable OCP with current gen Nvidia cards.I got 2 gtx 580s in sli. Stock clocks and voltage. I tried to stress test using Furmakr with OCP disabled but I'm not getting full load on both cards. They both jump up and down. Is there a way to fix it?
I have i7 at 3.5 ghz and 1050 watt PSU.
Do you have DX11 enabled? It's all messed up. Also i'd read through the batman pc thread, I remember reading someone else having that problem.So I got a copy of Batman: Arkham's City with my purchase of the 560GTX TI vid card. Is anyone else crashing in the intro where you escape from the room and start walking towards the cages and some guy goes "You Bruce Wayne? I've been looking for you"
Problem Event Name: APPCRASH
Application Name: BatmanAC.exe
blah blah blah
It might be a general crash, but I updated drivers, played around with resolutions, antialiasing, v sync, etc. Still the same, crashes at the same part.
Supposedly you don't want to disable OCP with current gen Nvidia cards.
Additionally, I only find furmark useful for troubleshooting. Any particular reason why you were stress testing?
Damn I hope I didn't. Fuck something up. Is there a way to get to the bios or am I just screwed?
Hmm trying to find the battery. Not sure what it looks like
Hmm trying to find the battery. Not sure what it looks like
Possibly. I opened it up twice. I wrote everything down from the memory as it says in the guide, then when I was putting them into the bios, I noticed I didn't have T1 for the 5th dram entry. So I opened it again to make sure I hadn't. Missed something, which I hadn't. It is possible that I pulled the out without turning off the power switch but I'm not sure. I'm gonna go look for the manual,Slow down and read your manual.
Did you unplug or power off the computer (back switch on PSU) when you removed the memory?
If you are happy with your performance in games, etc then I don't think there is a reason to overclock. In my case, I wanted to squeeze out a few extra frames in Skyrim so I overclocked my 2500k and noticed a 10 or so fps difference
As some one said, read your manual.
Damn the battery is behind the 580.
Now I've got to find a mini wrench of some sort, one of the screws holding the gpu in is stripped down in the part where you insert the screw driver and I cant get it out.No wonder you couldn't find it LOL
Read your motherboard manual to make sure removing the battery is the only way you can clear CMOS, which is what you are trying to accomplish with removing the battery.Now I've got to find a mini wrench of some sort, one of the screws holding the gpu in is stripped down in the part where you insert the screw driver and I cant get it out.
2. Some motherboards have a 3 pin jumper by the battery. Lets say that the jumper is on pins 2 and 3. Remove the jumper while the machine is OFF and place onto pins 1 and 2. Power on your machine for a minute. (Note: Your system will not POST). Shutdown your machine and put the jumper back to pins 2 and 3. Your reset is now complete
Yep. Each lady has special needs. RTFM.My gigabyte is different. There are two pins on the bottom of the motherboard that I need to bridge using a jumper (or a piece of metal) for 20-30 seconds while the motherboard is off. That resets the BIOS.
Yep. Each lady has special needs. RTFM.
I have a gut feeling it's a driver issue in general. But the thing is, sometimes it's fine for a bit then other times it happens a lot. It was the most frustrating thing ever. Wish there was an actual fix for it :/
Exodus,
are you playing at 1280x720?
Yeah, like in Prime 95. Games won't do a full load on your CPU.
So you get pumped and build a rig! Awesome accidental find though.
Depends on the rest of the fans, but probably intake.
I'd go front and side as intake. Top and rear as exhaust. You can mess with the configuration to see what nets you the best results if you are up for it.
Also be sure to remove as many HDD bays as possible and/or move them to get out of the way of the intake.
*edit*
One thing I hadn't considered there was the inclusion of the H100. I know that thing is a pain to mount, especially if you're doing push/pull, but you might want to try with that as intake since it'll be mounted on the top and your side panel as exhaust. It might not make a huge difference in temps if you do have the H100 as exhaust, as I have no idea what kind of heat those Lightnings throw into the case. I'd really be tempted to try it out both ways and see.
For my case, having the top as intake (where my 240mm rad is mounted) lowered CPU temps by something like 6-7C. However, my case is a lot smaller, so those TFII's fill up the case temp a lot quicker than yours might with a larger case. I settled with front and top as intake, rear and side as exhaust. It's like a blow dryer out of the side panel because of those TFII's.