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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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vilmer_

Member
I changed my Mobo and it still happened and my ram, same thing.

I have a gut feeling it's a driver issue in general. But the thing is, sometimes it's fine for a bit then other times it happens a lot. It was the most frustrating thing ever. Wish there was an actual fix for it :/
 
Are the gains from over clocking actually worth it? When built my rig two yers ago, I bought a ridiculous fan/heatsink for my i7 920 with the intent to over clock, but never did.
 

Azzurri

Gold Member
I have a gut feeling it's a driver issue in general. But the thing is, sometimes it's fine for a bit then other times it happens a lot. It was the most frustrating thing ever. Wish there was an actual fix for it :/

Yea, I did update my driver about a month ago, no dice.
 

vilmer_

Member
Are the gains from over clocking actually worth it? When built my rig two yers ago, I bought a ridiculous fan/heatsink for my i7 920 with the intent to over clock, but never did.

If you are happy with your performance in games, etc then I don't think there is a reason to overclock. In my case, I wanted to squeeze out a few extra frames in Skyrim so I overclocked my 2500k and noticed a 10 or so fps difference ;)
 

Jtrizzy

Member
Ok I figured out how to enter the multiplier in the bios, do I need to adjust the bclk/pcie frequency? It's at 103, and the by all cores is set to 44.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok I figured out how to enter the multiplier in the bios, do I need to adjust the bclk/pcie frequency? It's at 103, and the by all cores is set to 44.
There are OC guides in the OP that are really in depth.
Yea, I did update my driver about a month ago, no dice.
Have you tried rolling back drivers?

Another option is to download furmark and msi afterburner. Up the voltage on your card, and see if it becomes stable while running furmark.
I set that to 100. They were together as one setting.

Is it normal for the it to be fluctuating between 100x44 and 100x16? Speed is doing this as well...1600.05 to 4400.14.
That's what speedstep is, changes your multiplier based on current activity. If you want it at a single speed, you can disable it in BIOS.
 

chewydogg

Member
I'm going to try a clean install on the SSD again, then wipe my primary HDD and try to recover from my second HDD (the one with the back up).

This worked. I've got my stuff back. Now I just need to figure out how to get Steam to see my saves. Guess I'll head over to the Steam thread...
 

Jtrizzy

Member
There are OC guides in the OP that are really in depth.

Have you tried rolling back drivers?

Another option is to download furmark and msi afterburner. Up the voltage on your card, and see if it becomes stable while running furmark.

That's what speedstep is, changes your multiplier based on current activity. If you want it at a single speed, you can disable it in BIOS.

So I'm probably ok to try prime 95 again to test stability?
 

Jtrizzy

Member
So I went back to default settings and am running prime95 to test stability as the guide in the op says. How long does this run? Or do I just run it for hours on end to test stability?
 

CSX

Member
I got 2 gtx 580s in sli. Stock clocks and voltage. I tried to stress test using Furmakr with OCP disabled but I'm not getting full load on both cards. They both jump up and down. Is there a way to fix it?

I have i7 at 3.5 ghz and 1050 watt PSU.
 

rxdco07

Member
So I got a copy of Batman: Arkham's City with my purchase of the 560GTX TI vid card. Is anyone else crashing in the intro where you escape from the room and start walking towards the cages and some guy goes "You Bruce Wayne? I've been looking for you"

Problem Event Name: APPCRASH
Application Name: BatmanAC.exe
blah blah blah

It might be a general crash, but I updated drivers, played around with resolutions, antialiasing, v sync, etc. Still the same, crashes at the same part.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I got 2 gtx 580s in sli. Stock clocks and voltage. I tried to stress test using Furmakr with OCP disabled but I'm not getting full load on both cards. They both jump up and down. Is there a way to fix it?

I have i7 at 3.5 ghz and 1050 watt PSU.
Supposedly you don't want to disable OCP with current gen Nvidia cards.

Additionally, I only find furmark useful for troubleshooting. Any particular reason why you were stress testing?
 

Jtrizzy

Member
So I got a copy of Batman: Arkham's City with my purchase of the 560GTX TI vid card. Is anyone else crashing in the intro where you escape from the room and start walking towards the cages and some guy goes "You Bruce Wayne? I've been looking for you"

Problem Event Name: APPCRASH
Application Name: BatmanAC.exe
blah blah blah

It might be a general crash, but I updated drivers, played around with resolutions, antialiasing, v sync, etc. Still the same, crashes at the same part.
Do you have DX11 enabled? It's all messed up. Also i'd read through the batman pc thread, I remember reading someone else having that problem.
 

CSX

Member
Supposedly you don't want to disable OCP with current gen Nvidia cards.

Additionally, I only find furmark useful for troubleshooting. Any particular reason why you were stress testing?

well i was stress testing to see how my fan controls on afterburner work out.
Plus my fps is dropping in Skyrim for some reason :\
 

Jtrizzy

Member
Damn I fucked something up with my memory. I pulled on of the sticks out to read the modules and speed like the guide says for dram. 9 9 9 24 but there was nothing for the fifth on my memory.

I may have changed the values and saved? I'm not sure, but is there a way to get back to the bios? The little red light is on underneath my memory and I'm not getting a picture. Did I fuck this up permanently?
 

wowzors

Member
Kingston HyperX 120gb, im getting Reads of 484mb/s and writes of 170mb/s the write seems a little on the slow side. Any ideas?
 

JVIDICAN

Member
Anyone else overclocking on a BioStar TZ68A+ mobo?
I've been loosely following the p67 overclock guide listed in the OP, but a few things seem different..ish, and setting the CPU voltage to the 1.12v the guide recommends for the first overclock(4.0GHz) Puts me near the bottom the yellow voltage range. Should I fear the yellow, or is it fine? :eek:
So far I managed to overclock it to 4Ghz with the CPU voltage set at 1.21v(normal range) and it seems stable so far. Temps haven't gone any higher than they were at stock, so that's nice.
 

Sarcasm

Member
Damn I hope I didn't. Fuck something up. Is there a way to get to the bios or am I just screwed?

There are 2 ways you can reset your bios.

1. On the motherboard there is a small watch battery. Remove this battery along with the power cable from the power supply. Hold down the power button to fully discharge the system. Wait 2-3 minutes then reinstall the battery and plug in your system. Your reset is now complete

2. Some motherboards have a 3 pin jumper by the battery. Lets say that the jumper is on pins 2 and 3. Remove the jumper while the machine is OFF and place onto pins 1 and 2. Power on your machine for a minute. (Note: Your system will not POST). Shutdown your machine and put the jumper back to pins 2 and 3. Your reset is now complete
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Slow down and read your manual.

Did you unplug or power off the computer (back switch on PSU) when you removed the memory?
 

Sarcasm

Member
Hmm trying to find the battery. Not sure what it looks like :(

3862532-an-isolated-image-of-a-small-watch-battery-held-between-fingers--negative-side.jpg


As some one said, read your manual.
 

Jtrizzy

Member
Slow down and read your manual.

Did you unplug or power off the computer (back switch on PSU) when you removed the memory?
Possibly. I opened it up twice. I wrote everything down from the memory as it says in the guide, then when I was putting them into the bios, I noticed I didn't have T1 for the 5th dram entry. So I opened it again to make sure I hadn't. Missed something, which I hadn't. It is possible that I pulled the out without turning off the power switch but I'm not sure. I'm gonna go look for the manual,
 
yeah, take out the battery and power connector to the mobo. wait a few minutes and restart.
also, not sure if this applies to all asus mobos but try tapping on the CTRL key when you restart. on some asus, that will reset your bios settings.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
If you are happy with your performance in games, etc then I don't think there is a reason to overclock. In my case, I wanted to squeeze out a few extra frames in Skyrim so I overclocked my 2500k and noticed a 10 or so fps difference ;)

I just kept getting 'over clock failed' messages on boot up, even with relatively minor boosts, so I gave up and am running at stock i5 2500k speeds for now.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Now I've got to find a mini wrench of some sort, one of the screws holding the gpu in is stripped down in the part where you insert the screw driver and I cant get it out.
Read your motherboard manual to make sure removing the battery is the only way you can clear CMOS, which is what you are trying to accomplish with removing the battery.

Additionally, you should be selecting XMP (extreme memory profile) which is memory configuration set by the manufacturer of the RAM. You shouldn't have to put the settings in manually.

Also, read your manual as to how to use the "MEM OK" button. Might work out for you in this situation depending on whether or not the mobo set a default on the first successful boot.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
2. Some motherboards have a 3 pin jumper by the battery. Lets say that the jumper is on pins 2 and 3. Remove the jumper while the machine is OFF and place onto pins 1 and 2. Power on your machine for a minute. (Note: Your system will not POST). Shutdown your machine and put the jumper back to pins 2 and 3. Your reset is now complete

My gigabyte is different. There are two pins on the bottom of the motherboard that I need to bridge using a jumper (or a piece of metal) for 20-30 seconds while the motherboard is off. That resets the BIOS.
 

Iadien

Guarantee I'm going to screw up this post? Yeah.
I have a gut feeling it's a driver issue in general. But the thing is, sometimes it's fine for a bit then other times it happens a lot. It was the most frustrating thing ever. Wish there was an actual fix for it :/

This shit has plagued me for years. 2 mobos, 3 sets of ram, and 3 video cards later, I still get the damn error. Fucking annoying.
 

Minamu

Member
My PSU seems to be breaking down. The fan have been making worrying noises almost since day one but they've been getting worse lately. It soudns like something is stuck between the fan blades like when you put a piece of cardboard in your bicycle wheel as a kid. But it comes and goes at random. I've cleaned it before so I can't see much dust at all and the fan itself looks just fine to me. I've confirmed that it's not some other fan in the case, by placing the psu on the floor outside the case and turning it on.

How bad would it be if the PSU dies while in use? It's also modular but I don't remember the brand. Can I use modular molex cables from my current brand with a different brand? I'd hate to rewire everything :p

Edit: Actually, it's an old NorthQ Black Magic Flex 650W with a 135mm fan.
 

RS4-

Member
Out of boredom I felt like trying to OC my 2600k again at 4.9.

Going well so far.

Cleaned out the filters at the bottom of my FT02 as well, idle GPU temps dropped 3-5C. Damn things weren't even that dirty.

Then again, I'm still using the old FT02 180mm fans that came with the original FT02. Should get around to replacing those.

If I come across a Silverstone TJ07, I'm going to get it
 

Soi-Fong

Member
Yeah, like in Prime 95. Games won't do a full load on your CPU.

So you get pumped and build a rig! Awesome accidental find though.

Depends on the rest of the fans, but probably intake.

I'd go front and side as intake. Top and rear as exhaust. You can mess with the configuration to see what nets you the best results if you are up for it.

Also be sure to remove as many HDD bays as possible and/or move them to get out of the way of the intake.

*edit*

One thing I hadn't considered there was the inclusion of the H100. I know that thing is a pain to mount, especially if you're doing push/pull, but you might want to try with that as intake since it'll be mounted on the top and your side panel as exhaust. It might not make a huge difference in temps if you do have the H100 as exhaust, as I have no idea what kind of heat those Lightnings throw into the case. I'd really be tempted to try it out both ways and see.

For my case, having the top as intake (where my 240mm rad is mounted) lowered CPU temps by something like 6-7C. However, my case is a lot smaller, so those TFII's fill up the case temp a lot quicker than yours might with a larger case. I settled with front and top as intake, rear and side as exhaust. It's like a blow dryer out of the side panel because of those TFII's.

I thought that a push/pull was not possible on a 500r as there would not be enough room between. Motherboard and hitting the radiator unlike the Arc Midi?

Also, how does one go about doing a push/pull with an H100?
 
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