You can put fans on the outside of the case IIRC, not enough room internally. The H100 comes with extra screws. You put those on the other fans not mounted directly to the case.I thought that a push/pull was not possible on a 500r as there would not be enough room between. Motherboard and hitting the radiator unlike the Arc Midi?
Also, how does one go about doing a push/pull with an H100?
Have an extra Gene-Z if you are interested.I sent my p8z68v-pro back to amazon this morning. The usb ports were defective
Once they issue the refund, maybe I'll go with the extreme-z instead...
Laptop manufacturers have contracts with HDD manufacturers to get HDDs at X cost in future years. Consumers like us are essentially subsidizing that with increased prices on our end.i was trying to do one of those make your own xbox hard drive mods, and i hadn't realized just how expensive 2.5" hard drives are now. double the price for some small capacity drives, i don't know how laptop prices are staying stable despite a shortage of drives and crazy prices everywhere else
You can put fans on the outside of the case IIRC, not enough room internally. The H100 comes with extra screws. You put those on the other fans not mounted directly to the case.
Have an extra Gene-Z if you are interested.
What does the little button do on the mem ok light?
It can fit fans in push pull inside the case. The top of the case is actually a second piece that is essentially screwed in to the main chassis. It contains a bunch of plastic cross pieces that hold the filter in place. You *could* probably mount fans outside of the case, but you might have to remove some of the plastic supports. The screws could theoretically just puncture right through the filter and connect with the threading on the chassis/radiator. This would look butt ugly, and I'm not certain why someone would want to in the first place though.I was wondering do you know if the arc midi can fit the two fans outside of the case, but still have the dust filter?
Maybe that's Windows Update asking for a restart? Does it ask you if you want to postpone it?
Seasonic SS-1000XP, Corsair HX1050 are both good choices.Can someone recommend me a good psu for this build? I plan to overclock gpu and cpu and I plan to sli with another gtx 580.
All my pieces are purchased and I should be able to start my build next week. I have one question regarding SSD though. Is it safe to partition them? I really only do it for organizational purposes so if I ever have to format I dont need to redownload or reinstall big games like WoW. I typically only install games on my D drive partition while I keep the OS and other programs on C. Can I do this with SSD without causing any problems? I'm not sure how windows deals with TRIM or what it even does, so that's why I ask this question.
Partitioning it will be fine.Quoting myself for a new page. Anyone?
Not really easy unless you're comfortable with removing the heatsink from the card. I'd actually suggest filing a RMA with ASUS. They might cross ship a new card to you. Their customer service has been nothing but top notch in my experience.I recently bought an ASUS GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II from Amazon.co.uk. The fan nearest the power connectors makes a rattling noise at a certain speed, but not all the time, suggesting that it is also temperature-related. It only seems to happen as the card is cooling down after running a game for a while.
So it happens like this:
1) boot up PC, gpu fans at idle, no rattle
2) run game for a while, gpu fans spin up, no rattle
3) close game, gpu fans go back to idle, starts rattling like mad as the temperature falls
4) after a few minutes at idle it stops rattling
It only happens with one of the fans. Is there an easy fix? Or should I just get a replacement from Amazon?
Hmm. It's still within the 30 day amazon returns window... would it not be easier to do it through them? By cross ship do you mean they'd send a new card before asking for the old one back/at the same time? Because that would be mighty handy...Not really easy unless you're comfortable with removing the heatsink from the card. I'd actually suggest filing a RMA with ASUS. They might cross ship a new card to you. Their customer service has been nothing but top notch in my experience.
Yeah, that is what I mean. You can at least start the RMA and see if they'd be willing to do it. If they require you to ship it in, then you could do the Amazon return if that is what you prefer.Hmm. It's still within the 30 day amazon returns window... would it not be easier to do it through them? By cross ship do you mean they'd send a new card before asking for the old one back/at the same time? Because that would be mighty handy...
I'm kind of a neat freak, so I toss it all except for the PSU box. Everything else is easily shipped in an anti-static bag + lots of padding.So after I'm all finished building, do I need to keep the boxes and crap around and for how long if I should?
So after I'm all finished building, do I need to keep the boxes and crap around and for how long if I should?
If you've got room to put them all in the attic or something, it might be worth doing, particularly if you are very careful with opening packages. It certainly looks a lot better in an eBay sale when all the packaging for a certain component is in as-new condition.So after I'm all finished building, do I need to keep the boxes and crap around and for how long if I should?
OCZ Vertex 3 240GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps Sandforce SF-2281 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD
Price: $389.99 CAD after $30 MIR
($160 OFF Reg. $549.99 Sku:59355)
I think *most* of the recent Sandforce (what OCZ uses) issues have been ironed out, so you'll probably be okay with that drive. However, I'd still push people towards the Intel 320 series, Corsair Force GT, and Crucial M4.Guh, I'm not sure if what I did will solve my restart problem, but if not, I'm gonna get an SSD for sure.
How's this?
I don't think SSD will ever reach the dollar to gig value, but this is close.
There's a few links to videos and the like in the OP.got most of my parts for "excellent" build, someone suggest an installation guide/web?
thanks!
You can put fans on the outside of the case IIRC, not enough room internally. The H100 comes with extra screws. You put those on the other fans not mounted directly to the case.
Have an extra Gene-Z if you are interested.
I don't really think push/pull on the H100 is necessary.
You're supposed to put it in the compartment thingie above the main chassis but still below the top panel - which is removable.I'm going to have to put the fans on the outside. It won't work for me inside:
Irritated.
You're supposed to put it in the compartment thingie above the main chassis but still below the top panel - which is removable.
The 400R/500R and 600T both have a separate compartment (at the top of the case with a removable cover) for the H100 fans. The 650D is the only Corsair mid-tower that can house the H100 fans within the main chassis. A fully internal push/pull H100 setup would require the 650D, though you would probably need custom fans.I'm going to have to put the fans on the outside. It won't work for me inside:
You can see that the fan covers my power supply connector in the upper left. Compare it to the RAM on the right compared to how far the fan sticks out and it won't go there. Put em up top and the mesh cover won't close completely.
Irritated.
I think *most* of the recent Sandforce (what OCZ uses) issues have been ironed out, so you'll probably be okay with that drive. However, I'd still push people towards the Intel 320 series, Corsair Force GT, and Crucial M4.
Whatever drive you get, make sure you update the firmware on it before installing windows.
Intel 320 reliability still trumps all? The pricing hasn't gone done ever though.
I think *most* of the recent Sandforce (what OCZ uses) issues have been ironed out, so you'll probably be okay with that drive. However, I'd still push people towards the Intel 320 series, Corsair Force GT, and Crucial M4.
Whatever drive you get, make sure you update the firmware on it before installing windows.
Yeah, the only reason why I suggest the Force GT over the OCZ products is because if something does go wrong (what storage device doesn't have issues?) you have Corsair support to help you out rather than OCZ. Corsair service is pretty phenomenal. They sent me an additional 600T just because the fan controller on my previous one went bad. That's what kind of service you can expect.the Corsair Force GT uses exactly the same sandforce controller OCZ is using in their 3 series SSDs. and suffer from the sames problems.
out of those three the M4 is the best bet. it's basically problems free and quite as fast.
the Intel 320 had its fair share of problems too with the 8MB bug.
It does seem almost impossible to find a case with as many features in a nice package as the 690II and Arc Midi. The fact that they're both under $100 makes it almost silly.·feist·;33162225 said:Always nice having the option to push/pull 2x240mm, all internally, without modding, and having space to spare. Plus, room for 1x120mm + 1x120mm.
*not my pics
Yeah, the only reason why I suggest the Force GT over the OCZ products is because if something does go wrong (what storage device doesn't have issues?) you have Corsair support to help you out rather than OCZ. Corsair service is pretty phenomenal. They sent me an additional 600T just because the fan controller on my previous one went bad. That's what kind of service you can expect.
definitely, that's why i'm saying the M4 is the best bet among SSDs. there are really no major issues to report. nothing as bad as constant BSODs or getting all your data erased after a reboot at leastMost stuff has its fair share of issues. Most of my buying decisions are based on minimizing those, and buying from companies that fix whatever issues crop up. Crucial, Intel, and Corsair are the best examples of it on both sides.
Ok got the cpu fan error taken care of.
Does this all look solid so far?
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/5544/53811631.jpg[IMG][/URL][/QUOTE]
I'm no expert. I'm pretty sure you are fine if you don't crash with Prime 95(after an hour). Temperatures seems good as well. You have the right voltage as well that corresponds with a 45x multiplier.
Nope, it just shuts down.
I've turned off all the bullshit windows update since I started, but I'll check it again.
320s were on sale for around $1/GB (after rebate) at a few places during Black Friday, and for someone who cares about reliability and space, a 160GB 320 for $160 is a very solid choice.
Specific time as in like a timer? Maybe some software is causing it.
Yup.Got my i5 2500k OC'd to 4.5GHz. Ran It for an hour with Prime 95 and temps are around 60-65C. Does that seem ok?
How far can you OC a i7 2600K (3.8ghz) too?
Depends on what heatsink you're using and what temps you are comfortable with. But regardless, 3.8ghz would be very easy to achieve.