"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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chaosblade said:
Not really out of date at all aside from the 295. 580 is probably the only worthwhile upgrade from that, since you'd get a performance increase across the board and you wouldn't have SLI issues. Probably best to wait to see what AMD is going to announce, their cards should be coming soon.

Nothing else should be bottlenecking you, and even that rig at 1080p should be plenty capable (for games with decent SLI support at least).

Edit: And I can't really help you with the sound, figured the 295 would support audio over HDMI. Pretty sure newer NVidia and AMD cards will do that.
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That's kind of what I was thinking. It is running everything at a decent level but the 295 is certainly showing it's age. It does support audio through HDMI using a SPDIF connection, unfortunately I can't seem to find my SPDIF cable and the HDMI port doesn't appear to be working anyway.

Assuming I don't change my screen size or resolution any time soon I'm guessing the 1.5Gb cards are sufficient or is it still worthwhile to look at 3Gb? I'm not sure if/how much additional VRAM would be used for 3D Vision.
 
Fixed1979 said:
That's kind of what I was thinking. It is running everything at a decent level but the 295 is certainly showing it's age. It does support audio through HDMI using a SPDIF connection, unfortunately I can't seem to find my SPDIF cable and the HDMI port doesn't appear to be working anyway.

Assuming I don't change my screen size or resolution any time soon I'm guessing the 1.5Gb cards are sufficient or is it still worthwhile to look at 3Gb? I'm not sure if/how much additional VRAM would be used for 3D Vision.
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You want the 3GB Nvidia cards if you're running 3D. SLI is always a plus for 3D as well. Dual GTX580 Lightning Extreme 3GB would run everything really well right now, if you're looking to drop that kind of cash. You could also look at a 590 3GB card.

Otherwise, you could wait for the next gen of Nvidia cards.

High end modern games running 3D is really really taxing, and you really have to pay a premium for it.
 
Petrie said:
Ive never had a case with removable drive bays like this, and im a bit confused. There's seems to be these black plastic pieces meant to make the drive fit, however the holes on the side for screws don't match up. Can anyone explain what I should be doing?

https://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom...42120098&viewportWidth=480&viewportHeight=268

https://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom...67886642&viewportWidth=480&viewportHeight=268

Damn images wont work right...frick.
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upload with imgur.com, its great
 
The good news: My computer is built and seems to be working. The bad news: I can't connect it to my monitor. I've tried VGA, DVI, DVI to HDMI to both the motherboard and the video card and still can't get a signal. I know it booted correctly because the motherboard lights are OK and there is a short beep. And when do I install the motherboard and video card drivers?

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-boot-video-problems

Checklist:
1. Did you carefully read the motherboard owners manual?
Yes
2. Did you plug in the 4/8-pin CPU power connector located near the CPU socket?
Yes
3. Did you install the standoffs under the motherboard?
Absolutely
4. 4. Did you verify that the video card is fully seated?
Yes
5. Did you attach all the required power connector(s) to the video card?
Yes, but there were 2 PCI-e connectors each with a 6-pin and a 2-pin. I only attached one 6-pin. Does a Gigabyte Radeon 6850 have a 2-pin socket?
6. Have you tried booting with just one stick of RAM installed?
No, I'll do this later
7. Did you verify that all memory modules are fully inserted?
Yes, the sides clicked
8. Did you verify in the owners manual that you're using the correct RAM slots?
There are 4 DIMM sockets and I put the modules in DDR3_A2 and DDR3_B2, just like the manual says.
9. Did you remove the plastic guard over the CPU socket?
Yes
10. Did you install the CPU correctly?
Perfectly
11. Are there any bent pins on the motherboard/CPU?
I don't think so
12. Did you get any thermal paste on the motherboard, CPU socket, or CPU pins?
The 2100's heatsink had thermal paste strips on the bottom but I still put a pea-sized Arctic Silver 5 paste on the CPU, the silver part

Several things could be causing it, but I know I have a video problem and not a booting problem.
 
ChoklitReign said:
The good news: My computer is built and seems to be working. The bad news: I can't connect it to my monitor. I've tried VGA, DVI, DVI to HDMI to both the motherboard and the video card and still can't get a signal. And when do I install the motherboard and video card drivers?
Click to expand...

Try a different monitor or TV. If you still don't get any picture, it could be a bad MB, most likely, or video card. And, you install drivers after installing Windows.
 
I just want to ask if anyone knows how good this video card is? I was gonna pick one up for my brother but I honestly don't know from reading the specs. He is using it for gaming would it be able to play most of the new stuff?

10158496.jpg
 
Cmagus said:
I just want to ask if anyone knows how good this video card is? I was gonna pick one up for my brother but I honestly don't know from reading the specs. He is using it for gaming would it be able to play most of the new stuff?

10158496.jpg
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On lower settings/resolutions. Not a very good card. Pretty sure a GTS 250 is actually better than that, although it won't have DX11.
 
Looking to upgrade my case. Is there anything similar/cheaper than a corsair 650D? Not really in the mood to drop $200 for a case. Need one that needs to fit large cpu coolers. At least 9" wide
 
Ice Raven said:
Looking to upgrade my case. Is there anything similar/cheaper than a corsair 650D? Not really in the mood to drop $200 for a case. Need one that needs to fit large cpu coolers. At least 9" wide
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Fractal Arc Midi, on sale for $85 and free shipping today too.

Here's a review and video review so you can get a better look at it.

In some ways, it surpasses the 650D in features. Certainly a better air cooler, and tons of room for radiators as well.
 
Only thing about that case, is that you'll want to buy another 2 120mm fans to really make it shine. Not quite enough airflow with the three stock fans.
 
mkenyon said:
Yep.

Alternatively, just tell me what case you have and the size of your HDD's you are attempting to install. Most of the tool free HDD bays are designed for 3.5" hdds only.
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Its an Ultra Aluminus ATX Tower, and just regular 3.5 drives I believe.

ULT31824-main.jpg


Not the best case in the world, but they sent my buddy 2 so the price (free) was right.

Seems to have a lack of fan vents. Is my old Antec 300 still preferable?
 
My SSD arrived today. I've got it installed, firmware is up to date, now I'm trying to move W7 and some other programs to the SSD. I've downloaded the trial ver. of Acronis True Image Home 2012. Do I just back up the programs onto the SSD and then set that as my boot drive in the BIOS? After I move W7 can I delete it from my HDD?

Is there a better way to get W7 onto my SSD?

edit: I found this guide. Does this seem like the way to go?
 
TheExodu5 said:
Some important key combinations block input. W + Shift + Space is the big one I can think of. I have the release version of the keyboard that didn't have this issue.

It's possibly they've fixed it since then, but I know a little while after launch people concluded that Logitech "gimped" the board to promote its gaming line.

I'm realizing now just how much I disliked that mechanical keyboard. I think I prefer membrane, even. It's nice and all that the mechanical board actuates halfway through the travel, but I find the travel way too long in the first place.

I'll just conclude by saying that keyboards are definitely a very personal thing, and a mechanical board is not necessarily an upgrade for all users. It's something you should definitely sample before you jump head-first like I did and spend a considerable amount of money.
Click to expand...

Is a mechanical keyboard emulating a type-writer or something? How does it compare to one of those?
 
chewydogg said:
My SSD arrived today. I've got it installed, firmware is up to date, now I'm trying to move W7 and some other programs to the SSD. I've downloaded the trial ver. of Acronis True Image Home 2012. Do I just back up the programs onto the SSD and then set that as my boot drive in the BIOS? After I move W7 can I delete it from my HDD?

Is there a better way to get W7 onto my SSD?
Click to expand...

Generally, when you switch to SSD, you want to do a fresh Windows install, because if you clone from a HDD, it won't be align correctly which will cause a performance hit on the SSD. Supposedly, there are programs, google, out there that will correct this but I hVe never tried them. So, if you want to clone HDD to SSD, you will need to look into it. After cloning, go into your MB bios, set the SSD as the priority #1 boot drive, and then, you can boot into Windows. Afterward, you can delete Windows, programs and etc. off the HDD.
 
It's been a looooong, long time, but I think I'd like to build/mod something again. Looking for some Powermac G5/Mac Pro cases on ebay for my i5 build. After six or seven years, it's time to ditch the Lian Li PC-71. Not sure if I'll keep the watercooler.
 
knitoe said:
Generally, when you switch to SSD, you want to do a fresh Windows install, because if you clone from a HDD, it won't be align correctly which will cause a performance hit on the SSD. Supposedly, there are programs, google, out there that will correct this but I hVe never tried them. So, if you want to clone HDD to SSD, you will need to look into it. After cloning, go into your MB bios, set the SSD as the priority #1 boot drive, and then, you can boot into Windows. Afterward, you can delete Windows, programs and etc. off the HDD.
Click to expand...

I have an OEM version of Windows. Would I be able to use it for this fresh install? Same key and everything?
 
So I just got done finishing my install of all of my parts for my new PC and I turn it on and everything seems to fire up except my POST doesnt initiate. Anyone have any ideas as to what it may be? I am stuck and a noob at this stuff and am kinda freaking out lol

EDIT:

Forgot a PCI-e connection on my directIIcu
 
How good is 6GB RAM for BF3? The game takes forever to load for me on 4GB and I read more RAM helps that, but I really don't need anymore RAM aside from BF3 so I don't want to go all out and get another 4. On DDR2 so unfortunately my options are a bit limited...
 
brotkasten said:
It's been a looooong, long time, but I think I'd like to build/mod something again. Looking for some Powermac G5/Mac Pro cases on ebay for my i5 build. After six or seven years, it's time to ditch the Lian Li PC-71. Not sure if I'll keep the watercooler.
Click to expand...
just be aware you will have to modify a mac case for pc components? They are pretty different from the way a normal atx case works
 
Ysiadmihi said:
How good is 6GB RAM for BF3? The game takes forever to load for me on 4GB and I read more RAM helps that, but I really don't need anymore RAM aside from BF3 so I don't want to go all out and get another 4. On DDR2 so unfortunately my options are a bit limited...
Click to expand...

The game will take a lot of time to load even with 16Gb of RAM.

What you need it's called SSD. The thing flies!
 
SuperÑ;33114396 said:
The game will take a lot of time to load even with 16Gb of RAM.

What you need it's called SSD. The thing flies!
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Nah, I'm talking about 90 second+ load times. By the time I get in, everyone is off and has captured the first base. And the game hitches and stutters like mad unless I free up RAM so I need more anyway...
 
I'm talking about my own experience. If the game is installed on my Samsung F3, people are already capturing the first base by the time i join the game. When installed on the Crucial M4, i have to wait the whole 30 seconds till we reach de required number of players to start the game.

All with just 4Gb of RAM.
 
I was having some BSOD issues for a few days and noticed that my rating/performance for my SSD (Agility 2) seemed to drop dramatically according to the SMART info in SpeedFan.

Is this really anything to be worried about? It was around 90% two to three weeks ago and is now around 73%
 
How do I normally set up wifi for a new computer? I have an option to connect to broadband but I need my ISP username and password. Don't most motherboards support wifi? I have a Biostar TH67+.
 
Ysiadmihi said:
Nah, I'm talking about 90 second+ load times. By the time I get in, everyone is off and has captured the first base. And the game hitches and stutters like mad unless I free up RAM so I need more anyway...
Click to expand...

More RAM won't help much. The game eats roughly 1.5GB on max.

Just get an SSD. I have 8GB + SSD and the game only takes like 10 seconds to load.
 
Wolf Akela said:
More RAM won't help much. The game eats roughly 1.5GB on max.

Just get an SSD. I have 8GB + SSD and the game only takes like 10 seconds to load.
Click to expand...

I've actually seen a lot of people saying more RAM has taken care of the loading issues. Besides, like I said above, I gotta turn off all kinds of crap unless I want the game to run like crap so more RAM will help anyway.
 
Windows troubleshooting says I don't have drivers for SM Bus Controller and PCI Simple Communications Controller. I assume those are for the wireless adapter? Do I download them from Biostar's website? They're a PITA right now because I can't get to the page for my motherboard downloads, plus Google search has links to their website from 2005.
 
ChoklitReign said:
Windows troubleshooting says I don't have drivers for SM Bus Controller and PCI Simple Communications Controller. I assume those are for the wireless adapter? Do I download them from Biostar's website? They're a PITA right now because I can't get to the page for my motherboard downloads, plus Google search has links to their website from 2005.
Click to expand...
most motherboards dont have built in wifi, you will most likely need a usb or pci wireless adapter
 
Soi-Fong said:
My question for you though is the Arc Midi good at cooling even the hottest video cards since it is a full tower.
Click to expand...
The Arc is one of the best/most flexible options for air cooling, and more capable than most mid towers for water cooling as well.


ChoklitReign said:
Windows troubleshooting says I don't have drivers for SM Bus Controller and PCI Simple Communications Controller. I assume those are for the wireless adapter? Do I download them from Biostar's website? They're a PITA right now because I can't get to the page for my motherboard downloads, plus Google search has links to their website from 2005.
Click to expand...
Did you use the disc that came with your motherboard?
Not sure what you mean by 2005 results, a quick search returns this:

http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/content.php?S_ID=511
http://206.108.48.60/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=511&tab=1

You can either use the disc bundled with the motherboard, or download the needed drivers from the links above (same source). You can install them over a local network, or by way of a sub drive, or burned CD/DVD with the necessary files included.
 
Now that I'm off SLI, I'm still waiting for that perfect case to upgrade. The Arc Midi looks great, but I'd almost like something fully aluminum. Loving the size and feature of the Arc Midi...it's really a gorgeous case. I think if the Midi came in full aluminum, I would jump on it right away.

I might need to wait for Lian-Li to step up their designs.
 
·feist·;33116919 said:
The Arc is one of the best/most flexible options for air cooling, and more capable than most mid towers for water cooling as well.


Did you use the disc that came with your motherboard?
Not sure what you mean by 2005 results, a quick search returns this:

http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/content.php?S_ID=511
http://206.108.48.60/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=511&tab=1

You can either use the disc bundled with the motherboard, or download the needed drivers from the links above (same source). You can install them over a local network, or by way of a sub drive, or burned CD/DVD with the necessary files included.
Click to expand...

The thing is though, isn't any full tower better at air cooling than the Arc Midi?
 
Soi-Fong said:
The thing is though, isn't any full tower better at air cooling than the Arc Midi?
Click to expand...

Potentially yes, but then you're dealing with a full tower.

I'm moving away from my HAF X. It's just too damned big. I mean, it's (along with the FT-02) the best air cooling case on the market, but I really don't think that kind of airflow is needed. If you're doing 3-way SLI or greater, then I think it may be warranted, but even with SLI it's been overkill. Whether I ran my fans at 400RPM or their max of 800RPM, my temps stayed the same, which indicated that I really wasn't hurting for better airflow. I'm pretty sure the Midi will provide adequate air cooling for any system that isn't pushing thermal boundaries.

That being said, the Midi has a few flaws for me:

- I'd rather have a closed off side panel. I don't think side panel cooling is needed, and I'd rather see it closed off to lessen GPU noise. (this is personal preference)
- I want a bigger CPU cutout, as seen in the Corsair cases or the Antec P280. I doubt this cutout is big enough to be able to deal with 1155 or 2011 heatsink positioning.
 
Also, looking at a review, the Arc Midi cooling is nothing special. It's simply adequate:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4878/fractal-design-arc-midi-the-mid-tower-youve-been-waiting-for/5

41320.png

41321.png

41324.png

41319.png


That seems like a pretty loud case to me.

It's certainly flexible, though. The case is basically equivalent to the Cooler Master CM 690 II, but with a nicer styling (imo). There are a few tradeoffs: the Arc Midi has better drive cages, but the updated CM 690 II Advanced has a full sized CPU cutout.

I certainly wouldn't call the Arc Midi the end-all be-all of mid towers. It's simply another option, with the CM 690 II Advanced, HAF 922, and Corsair 400R/500$ being solid contenders as well at the $100 pricepoint.

Personally, I would pic the Arc because I think it has far superior styling to the competition, but I think the CM 690 II would be fighting for second place (USB 3.0 version). The HAF 922, is still the best choice for multi GPU systems if you don't mind the aggressive styling. The 400R/500R are very similar to the CM 690 II USB 3.0 Version, if you like their styling better than the CM 690 II.
 
Quick question.

If I buy these parts, and already have a PSU, Case, HDD, BD Player, Graphics Card, and just want to update my Motherboard, Ram and CPU do I need to buy anything else? Or will I be set?

Current PSU: OCZ (OCZ500SXS) StealthXStream 500W ATX12V 20/24PIN Active PFC ATX Power Supply 120MM

Looking to buy the following:

ASUS P8H67-M LE REV3.0 mATX LGA1155 PCI-E16 PCI-E4 2PCI DVI HDMI VGA Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 XMP Dual Channel Memory Kit

Intel Core i7 960 Quad Core Processor LGA1366 3.2GHZ Bloomfield 8MB LGA1366 4.8GT/S Retail Box

Lastly, I7 950 vs 960, the 960 should be better right?
 
So now I've done a fresh OS install on my new SSD. How do I get my settings (wallpapers, programs on my start menu, ect.) back? If I do a system recovery, will it use up my SSD space?

What I envisioned when I got this SSD was putting my OS and a game or two on it, the rest on the HDD. But I want it to be seemless. I want to be able to have easy access to everything. As it is right now, if I want to get to something that is on my HDD I have to go to Computer>Local Disk (G:)>Program Files>Folder, etc. Basically, I want my desktop back. Is this even possible? Do I need to make some new shortcuts or something?

I am actively Googling these questions, but I thought I'd ask here as well. I value the advice from you guys more than some random message board thread from 2009 that Google may give me. This thread has been great to me so far.
 
Having a weird problem with my new PC (Asus pz blah blah motherboard...whatever I posted way back up there) - when it goes to sleep it doesn't wake up the keyboard and mouse. I have to cold boot it before the USB ports get power again (I guess?). Not sure what to make of it.
 
Mr Nightman said:
I replied a few posts up
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If that is true, than every PC building site is dishonest because 90% of users need wireless and don't use only Ethernet. It's a goddamn scam. So why do I have Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller under Network Adapters; is that really LAN-only? Why would anyone build a computer without wireless?
 
ChoklitReign said:
If that is true, than every PC building site is dishonest because 90% of users need wireless and don't use only Ethernet. It's a goddamn scam. So why do I have Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller under Network Adapters; is that really LAN-only? Why would anyone build a computer without wireless?
Click to expand...
I totally agree, the need for an additional wifi adapter definitely needs to be clearly stated. Do you by chance have a laptop with built in wifi?
 
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