What are the blue screen error codes?
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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toastyToast
Member
The one I'm getting is 0x00000124
http://www.sevenforums.com/crash-lockup-debug-how/35349-stop-0x124-what-means-what-try.html
*edit* You have speedstepping enabled? I've seen it cause 124 errors in a few of my buddies' rigs. Never shows up during stress testing because it doesn't lower voltage till you step down on the CPU usage. Because this is happening during Skyrim, I doubt it's the issue, but worth a shot.
Herpes Reasons
Banned
someone recommend me a mid tower that can fit a thermalright silver arrow.
preferrably with a preinstalled foam padding. the one i currently have, my side panel is pushing against the cpu cooler.
preferrably with a preinstalled foam padding. the one i currently have, my side panel is pushing against the cpu cooler.
Just got my WASD keyboard.
It's going to take some getting used to for sure, coming from a scissor switch keyboard. The key press is much lighter, and the activation point is not very pronounced at all. To be honest, I'm not sure how much I like the brown switches. The switches are not as smooth as I was expecting. The keys feel almost grainy while pressing them. If I press them quickly enough I don't notice it, but if I feel the key as I slowly press it down, that's the impression I get. I was expecting the tactile feedback to be a lot stronger, but it's really quite weak...the bump feels much weaker than in a membrane keyboard, even. Also, I feel the spacebar requires a bit too much effort to press compared to the rest of the keys. Not a big deal, but it will take some getting used to.
I will attest to one thing however, the audible feedback (I bottom out the keys) is very nice, and I do believe my typing is faster and more confident as a result. I'm sure I'll learn to love it. I tried the keys with and without the switch dampeners, and while it's definitely louder without the dampeners, it feels a bit better. You have a bit more travel distance and you get a nicer feedback.
The keyboard is incredibly solid. It's much heavier than I expected. Build quality is fantastic. The styling is great and subdued...I really love the dark grey and minimalistic logo on the top right of the keyboard. The printing quality could be better, but I suppose that's basically what you get with laser etched keys.
edit: shit, typing really is a hell of a lot faster compared to my old scissor switch. Also, I think the fact that the keys are so light is going to make this thing awesome for gaming.
It's going to take some getting used to for sure, coming from a scissor switch keyboard. The key press is much lighter, and the activation point is not very pronounced at all. To be honest, I'm not sure how much I like the brown switches. The switches are not as smooth as I was expecting. The keys feel almost grainy while pressing them. If I press them quickly enough I don't notice it, but if I feel the key as I slowly press it down, that's the impression I get. I was expecting the tactile feedback to be a lot stronger, but it's really quite weak...the bump feels much weaker than in a membrane keyboard, even. Also, I feel the spacebar requires a bit too much effort to press compared to the rest of the keys. Not a big deal, but it will take some getting used to.
I will attest to one thing however, the audible feedback (I bottom out the keys) is very nice, and I do believe my typing is faster and more confident as a result. I'm sure I'll learn to love it. I tried the keys with and without the switch dampeners, and while it's definitely louder without the dampeners, it feels a bit better. You have a bit more travel distance and you get a nicer feedback.
The keyboard is incredibly solid. It's much heavier than I expected. Build quality is fantastic. The styling is great and subdued...I really love the dark grey and minimalistic logo on the top right of the keyboard. The printing quality could be better, but I suppose that's basically what you get with laser etched keys.
edit: shit, typing really is a hell of a lot faster compared to my old scissor switch. Also, I think the fact that the keys are so light is going to make this thing awesome for gaming.
How many WPM do you get Exodus?
Not terribly fast...80-100 wpm, depending on the content. I don't have any formal typing method, don't user my pinky fingers, and I move my hands from their starting position while I type. I can't say I'm typing faster with this thing because it's a faster keyboard...I just think I'm typing faster because I'm feeling more confident with my keypresses. The light keys don't hurt either, as there's no chance of me not pressing a key hard enough for it to register.
Labombadog
Member
Just got dual monitors but I am having a hard time playing games with it.
My main monitor (left) is the only one showing the game while the right one is still on desktop. Help gaf?
Edit: I have a 4850 512mb with two DVI inputs, and two 23" Asus LED 1080p LCD monitors.
edit 2: Actually the second monitor is NOT at desktop while gaming but completely black.
My main monitor (left) is the only one showing the game while the right one is still on desktop. Help gaf?
Edit: I have a 4850 512mb with two DVI inputs, and two 23" Asus LED 1080p LCD monitors.
edit 2: Actually the second monitor is NOT at desktop while gaming but completely black.
I had a question involving RAM.
I bought this ram yesterday since it was on sale for 30 dollars, but I already have this 4 gb (2x2 kit) installed. Will I have to scrap the 4gb kit when I receive the new RAM?
I bought this ram yesterday since it was on sale for 30 dollars, but I already have this 4 gb (2x2 kit) installed. Will I have to scrap the 4gb kit when I receive the new RAM?
toastyToast
Member
I had c-states disabled so that it doesn't under volt. With the offset that I had it couldn't last 20s on the desktop if I had it on. I dropped my CPU back to stock now, I'll run Skyrim again a bit later to see if it still does the same thing.
I've gone through that list otherwise and the only thing I haven't done is reinstall windows. What a pain.
SO I want to build a cheapish but strong build, my understanding is I want a
i5-2500K quad core at least to OC. I don't know what motherboard to get or GPU.
I can probably figure out the rest as in memory.
I am also in Taiwan, so online purchases won't work and I will have to search - but things are cheaper over here. I built some really low end models.
One was just a tower with W7 & Office..came out to a USD of 333.33.
i5-2500K quad core at least to OC. I don't know what motherboard to get or GPU.
I can probably figure out the rest as in memory.
I am also in Taiwan, so online purchases won't work and I will have to search - but things are cheaper over here. I built some really low end models.
One was just a tower with W7 & Office..came out to a USD of 333.33.
Wolfgang Jr
Banned
Any comments?
Yep, have had to do the same myself for my mechanical boards. Though, three posts in a row seems like you're looking for an excuse to type.
Next one I'm looking at getting the the Leopold 10 Keyless cherry red board. I've noticed im moving my mouse way too close to my KB and bumping it while playing tribes. I play with super low sens, so I need a ton of room.
Would definitely go WASD if they had a compact board.
That's how it is supposed to work. Were you expecting both monitors to show the game?
If you really want silent, I'd push you towards a custom WC loop. Seems like with your knowledge of fans and the money you are plopping down, it's not above your level.
Otherwise, I'd suggest getting a good fan controller, unless you somehow got PWM GT's.
Lamptron FC-5 V2 is my default go-to choice for fan controllers.
I believe they're in the pipes for the following year. I don't think he'll be getting and Red switches, however.
Labombadog
Member
Yes, do I have to upgrade my card in order for it to work that way?
Yeah, you need eyefinity technology with AMD 5XXX cards and up. You also need a beastly card, and possibly crossfired beastly cards to have it run decently. With two monitors, you'll have the game split down the middle. I think it's mostly aimed at 3 monitors.
Only the game will show on one monitor.
Are you saying that its playing on the not main monitor or monitor you want to play it on?
Now you're going to want a Cherry blue switch keyboard.
Labombadog
Member
Damn. That's a disappointment. Thanks for the reply.
Nah. I don't think I really like the sound of the click.
To be honest, I think I just prefer the keyboard without the switch dampeners. It definitely quiets the keyboard a lot, but it compromises on the feel.
With the dampeners, you bottom out very shortly after hitting the activation point, and the force required to press is a bit higher passed the activation point. Without the dampeners, the activation point feels like it's halfway.
If anyone wants a relatively quiet mechanical keyboard, these dampeners are a must, however. They keyboard is twice as loud without them.
I'll have to decide whether I want to keep them on or off.
edit: nah, as nice as it feels, the keyboard just sounds way better with the dampeners on. On they stay.
It's still awesome having two monitors. I can't go with less. On my second monitor while gaming, I have HWMonitor, Mumble, and steam chats/friends list up.
Makes multitasking when browsing/researching amazing too.
Wolfgang Jr
Banned
How are the screens setup while on the desktop? If you have the 1 desktop across the 2x screens at 3840x1080 then the games should let you choose this resolution to game at. It sounds like you have the screens setup in a 'clone' mode on the desktop though; which the games probably wont like.
Yeah, I've done custom WC before and it's really the best way to go. After that, got the Swiftech kit which has been pretty good as well. This time it's really more for convenience. The loops are just too annoying to clean-out every 10-12 months. Saying that I'll probably be annoyed that I didn't go custom after building
Cheers - I'll check out the fan controller you've suggested; but I'll probably just solder in my own resistors to pull the fans RPM down.
Faster than me! I only can do 50 wpm. haha
TheChewyWaffles
Member
Stupid question time: how tight do I make the Coolermaster 212+ (or whatever that model is) when attaching the cooling unit to the mainboard using the X bracket?
Really tight, to where with a moderate amount of force it won't turn any further. Be sure to tighten slowly, switching corners without tightening any one side right away. You want even pressure.
Sneaky Gato
Member
Hey GAF I'm a competely new to upgrading a computer as I've only ever just had prebuilts and just used them to play older games. So for the first time I'm going to upgrade my computer(A Dell Studio 540) so that I can play Skyrim and I'm wondering what I need to do and what to be aware of. My computer already exceeds all the recommended specs according to CanItRunIt except for that I have a 4350. I was looking towards upgrading to a 6870 since that was what the guide in the OP said would be a fairly good GPU that was within my budget. What brands would you rec for that and a new 550W PSU?
Heres my build:
CPU: Intel Core2 Quad CPU Q8200 @ 2.5 Ghz
RAM: 8 GB DDR2
Motherboard: 0M017G
GPU: Radeon HD 4350
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
Are reusing any parts?: I'm planning on just buying the card and a new PSU since the old one is 350W and keeping everything else.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Heres my build:
CPU: Intel Core2 Quad CPU Q8200 @ 2.5 Ghz
RAM: 8 GB DDR2
Motherboard: 0M017G
GPU: Radeon HD 4350
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080
Are reusing any parts?: I'm planning on just buying the card and a new PSU since the old one is 350W and keeping everything else.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Wolfgang Jr
Banned
This. Tighten 'diagonal' corners, multiple times until all of them will not tighten anymore with a reasonable amount of pressure.
toastyToast
Member
If you can lift the the cooler and it takes the mobo with it without any wiggle it's tight enough.
so i bought a evga gtx 580, but i was looking for a gtx 560 ti for my brothers computer and i found this
MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
so the 2gb card make it better than my gtx 580 1.5gb?
also reading the thread seems like there is a new 560 out there thats almost better than a 570....interesting i guess i kinda wasted money buying the 580 correct?
MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
so the 2gb card make it better than my gtx 580 1.5gb?
also reading the thread seems like there is a new 560 out there thats almost better than a 570....interesting i guess i kinda wasted money buying the 580 correct?
Clever Pun
Member
Sorry, I know you posted it earlier in the thread, but what keyboard did you get again/from where?
WASD Keyboard
Got it with Cherry MX Brown switches and switch dampeners. I just got it plain black, but you can customize it as well.
Hey Hazaro and anyone else who's been following this.
I finally fixed the Bluetooth problem on the P8P67 Pro, a re-installation of windows 7 fixed it. Installed the latest drivers and it's working flawlessly, my guess would have to be that the Motionjoy drivers messed up some integral Bluetooth files.
All in all although it works great, be wary and cautious of installing Motionjoy and the drivers that go along with it.
I finally fixed the Bluetooth problem on the P8P67 Pro, a re-installation of windows 7 fixed it. Installed the latest drivers and it's working flawlessly, my guess would have to be that the Motionjoy drivers messed up some integral Bluetooth files.
All in all although it works great, be wary and cautious of installing Motionjoy and the drivers that go along with it.
Clever Pun
Member
Thanks, I'll see if I can sneak it into the new build I'm doing!
If you have 4 ram slots, you should be able to run them together for 12GB total. The only thing is you need to change the ram timing to 9-9-9-24 to get all of them to work. And, make sure the ram are slotted in dual channel mode with 2GB & 2GB and 4GB & 4GB.
Saw your questions earlier but didn't have a chance to respond. In my experience, I find it best to install the cpu and cooler on the motherboard before putting it into the case. Good to see you got 'er going
ss_lemonade
Member
Well, don't know aboot the wasted money part, but the 580 should be much much faster than the 560 ti and you are in no disadvantage whatsoever, despite having less ram
The 2GB card only has more memory...it's still slower than the GTX 580 by a decent margin. 1.5GB of RAM is not going to limit you as long as you're not gaming at 1440p/1600p resolution.
The new GTX 560 is 5-10% slower than the GTX 570 as well.
You certainly get better bang for your buck with the GTX 560 Ti. Cheaper cards tend to give better bang for buck. With the GTX 580, you pay a bit of a premium to get the best. It's about 15-20% faster than the GTX 570 for 40% extra cost. For some people (including myself), this is worth it. If you had the money to spend and it was within your budget, then don't feel too bad about it.
That being said, those of us that do buy the highest end typically don't mind spending more money than is necessary in this hobby. I'm sure many GTX 580 owners will happily consider upgrading to the next generation of video cards for even more speed. It's not economical, but when you spend as much time gaming on the PC as I do, the gains are worth it.
Going to order my WASD as soon as I figure out what colors to go with.
At the same time I wish I got the Das when I had the chance
So I gave a buddy some old parts to play with, and he has an issue, though its likely he busted it. He put the rig together, and had everything hooked up, booted, etc. It was showing a cpu temp error (likely because it was originally overclocked but now has a stock cpu) but he thought the heatsink/fan was loose and pushed down on it. The pc turned off, and now apparently wont reboot. I told him to disconnect the power, remove the mobo battery, and leave it for an hour or 2, however is it likely borked now or is there something else I should do?
Your Current Specs: Wife's Laptop
Budget: up to 36,000 NT Taiwan.
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play:
Most current game - Skyrim. Rest are older games like Fallout, Witcher, Batman, GTA, can check my steam account.
Are reusing any parts?: No. Well maybe an old CD drive from spare PC.
When will you build?: Can wait, sooner is better.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, I want to. Sounds like a great value.
Now I am building two. Two different locations. One in list is at wife's work with my monitor. So not spending too much on it and going to use with a monitor.
Second I will go all out. TV and all, but going to wait 6+ months for that.
Budget: up to 36,000 NT Taiwan.
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play:
Most current game - Skyrim. Rest are older games like Fallout, Witcher, Batman, GTA, can check my steam account.
Are reusing any parts?: No. Well maybe an old CD drive from spare PC.
When will you build?: Can wait, sooner is better.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, I want to. Sounds like a great value.
Now I am building two. Two different locations. One in list is at wife's work with my monitor. So not spending too much on it and going to use with a monitor.
Second I will go all out. TV and all, but going to wait 6+ months for that.
Around $28, I think, though I'm in Canada.
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