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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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1-D_FTW

Member
do you guys have any special recommendations as to good/cheap 120mm case fans?

right now i'm using these Coolermasters ...(kinda loud but move a lot of air)
Coolermaster R4-L2R-20AC 120MM Blue LED Case Fan 2000RPM 69CFM 19DBA 3/4 Pin
http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=42176&vpn=R4-L2R-20AC-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER


but i'm curious about these, and if they are any good? ie, noise levels, and do they move a good amount of air? etc.

Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM RED/BLACK Fan 1350RPM 47CFM 28DB 3/4PIN Sleeve Bearing OEM Sleeved Retail
http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=33852&vpn=D12SL-12-RED/BLACK&manufacture=Yate Loon

so any input on those Yate Loons? or any other recommendations for cheap but good 120mm case fans? tyvm, btw.

Can't you just turn down the RPMs in your BIOS? Wouldn't that significantly reduce the noise? A lot of times the noise is more from the whoosh of too much airflow than from the actual noise of the fan spinning. Can you try getting them closer to 1000 RPM and see if that's enough air flow to still keep things cool?

I bought a bunch of Yate Loons about 4 or 5 years ago (back when the Slickdeal Master PC thread was unanimous about them being the best budget fans. Got them real cheap).

Right now I'm using some Yate Loon D12SL12 - 120MM in my Cooler Master HAF 912. They provide plenty of airflow (although I'm still not running any of my case fans at full RPM). I have them running at just enough RPM to allow the whoosh of air to hide the GPU fan noise.

Not sure how Yate Loon compares now-a-days. Back when I bought them they were a couple dollars a pop. At 9.99, they're similarly priced to everything else now-a-days. Guess that's why they're no longer recommended the way they used to be. The price advantage is no longer there.
 

clav

Member
Soooooo what's a wireless router that will work and not be a pain in the ass

Check out the Netgear routers if you don't want a router that requires third party firmware.

Otherwise, if you're really cheap, just buy a refurbished E1000 and slap on DD-WRT or Tomato USB on it via Ethernet cable and do a factory reset afterwards. Be sure to check the instructions.
 

~Kinggi~

Banned
I dont build pcs, even though i think my next one i am going to try. But i did open up my 4870x2 again yesterday to clean it out. Card is one of the worst designed ever. Heatsink placement is utter shit. After cleaning out the dust and re-applying the thermal it dropped 10+ degress at idle. I can actually feel the wind come out of the back again. I did this once last year as well. Takes about a year for buildup to happen. Felt good fixing it.

What a shitty card.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Fuc* it, I'm going with the ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3, and bumping the CPU up to the i5-2500K as well. While I'm at it, a 1TB hard drive. This system better be able to render the moon once it's put together. >:|

Updated list:

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($97.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($55.24 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS39 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($79.99 @ Mwave)
Monitor: Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1050.02

I do realize that this is probably a stupid waste of money, but... I want a good computer, damn it!
It's a very good computer that should last you a nice long time.
 

B-Dex

Member
OK I think i'm gonna bite on this:

MOBO: msi Z68A-GD55
CPU: Intel i5 2500k
PSU: Corasair HX750
GPU: msi GTX560 Ti 2GB Twin Frozr II
RAM: 8GB Corsair vengeance
SSD: OCZ Vertex 3 120GB
HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB
CASE: Bitfenix Shinobi XL (maybea regular shinobi not sure)
 

LAMBO

Member
DOA mobo or power supply.

RMA mobo first and then power supply next. If you do have a power supply spare, test the current mobo with that one.

You do have the 4/8 pin connector plugged in right?

Tried another psu (old 230W pos but did have the 4 pin) got nothing, battery nothing, went to store and exchanged for a diff mobo, works great now. Now i'm just waiting for a good vid card deal, missed that $89 one a few days ago.
 

vaelic

Banned
You HAVE to put it on a USB, load into BIOS and open EZ Flash or whatever they call it and then let it do its thing. Don't use Asus' windows tools, they are notorious for being shit. It wipes the BIOS and then chokes on installing the updated version, meaning you won't be able to boot again. Today it's not a massive problem with all this crashfree BIOS and BIOS recovery but still, don't do it. This is experiences and from reading ASUS forums years ago so maybe their tools have improved but I wouldn't take the chance.

And yes, it will reset your settings.

thanks :)
 

mkenyon

Banned
OK I think i'm gonna bite on this:

MOBO: msi Z68A-GD55
CPU: Intel i5 2500k
PSU: Corasair HX750
GPU: msi GTX560 Ti 2GB Twin Frozr II
RAM: 8GB Corsair vengeance
SSD: OCZ Vertex 3 120GB
HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB
CASE: Bitfenix Shinobi XL (maybea regular shinobi not sure)
Switch out Vertex 3 for Samsung 830, Crucial M4, or Corsair Force GT. With the Force GT, you get the same controller with better customer service and QC, if you wanted that controller in specific.

PSU is a bit much unless you're planning for some dual card madness down the line.

Shinobi XL is a completely different case than standard Shinobi. Very much intended for people who like a ton of room, watercooling, and is quiet on top of it. There's some other really good choices if you aren't out for any of those things.
 

~Kinggi~

Banned
Now Ibuy for pretty much the same thing was over a $1000, and that's not even adding in a monitor. Just build it yourself, it will take you 30 mins. Building a pc is super easy, everything only goes in one slot one way. If your planing on spending that much, you could get a 7970 or a GTX680 for the same price your paying Ibuy.

I cant speak to the ease of it, but this is a load of crap. Expect 2-3 hour job easy (especially if you want good case wiring) and then troubleshooting when shit breaks.
 

B-Dex

Member
Switch out Vertex 3 for Samsung 830, Crucial M4, or Corsair Force GT. With the Force GT, you get the same controller with better customer service and QC, if you wanted that controller in specific.

PSU is a bit much unless you're planning for some dual card madness down the line.

Shinobi XL is a completely different case than standard Shinobi. Very much intended for people who like a ton of room, watercooling, and is quiet on top of it. There's some other really good choices if you aren't out for any of those things.

I like quiet and the case looks nice. :D And my current case is a huge monster which I like actually. Like a showpiece in my room haha.

And the SSD was on sale. But I can switch it up for the corsair I guess.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I like quiet and the case looks nice. :D And my current case is a huge monster which I like actually. Like a showpiece in my room haha.

And the SSD was on sale. But I can switch it up for the corsair I guess.
If the sale price is worth it, you could do a lot worse. Though the data seems to point to bad QC and really horrible customer service with OCZ, I've had 3 of their SSD's and all have been trouble-free.

Shinobi XL is in my top 5 for favorite cases right now. It's a good pick.
I cant speak to the ease of it, but this is a load of crap. Expect 2-3 hour job easy (especially if you want good case wiring) and then troubleshooting when shit breaks.
Between the build, cable management, installing windows/programs/games, and overclocking, it's a full day thing for me.
 

theRizzle

Member
What's the best controller for an htpc? Bonus if it has a keypad on it

14495.png


Logitech diNovo Mini. It's pricey (~100), but I love it.
 

theRizzle

Member
That is sick. Does it control windows media center well?

Yep. The Windows Media Center key is on the bottom right.


There's also a switch you can flip that changes the circle d-pad thing to your mouse control, and the backlight changes color too so you know what mode you are in. You should check out some videos on Youtube before you buy it though, 'cause like I said it is kind of expensive. The cheapest I've ever seen it is $100.
 

Einbroch

Banned
My God. I just went to a friend's place to play some Skyrim on his PC, to see what the fuss is about.

...

I've been living a lie. Handhelds + PC is definitely a route I'm thinking about going.
 

vertopci

Member
I'm slightly interested in a new keyboard. I currently have a Saitek Eclipse and Microsoft 500 - naturally, I'm unsatisfied. Despite the fact that birthday money is flowing in, I'm not buying a $100 mechanical. I found 3 different options on eBay and want input.

CHERRY G81-1822HQMUS PS2 BLACK KEYBOARD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230761044710?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
This is probably the cheapest mechanical keyboard that doesn't look like it's 30 years old. I don't know what type of switches it uses. I want a kind that's balanced for typing and gaming.

Logitech Illuminated Ultra Thin USB Wired Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110847641159?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
A fancy Logitech KB for half price - what's not to love? I'm certain I would like this one.

Rosewill RK-800G Black 104 Normal Keys PS/2 Wired Gaming Keyboard
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290688752420?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
By far the cheapest option. It uses ABS rubber dome keys which I am unfamiliar with. Are they a solid upgrade from my current KBs?

Honestly, just save up some money and get a decent mechanical keyboard. Better than buying cheap keyboard after cheap keyboard because you don't like them.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
I cant speak to the ease of it, but this is a load of crap. Expect 2-3 hour job easy (especially if you want good case wiring) and then troubleshooting when shit breaks.
3 hours? How many computers have you built? Your putting in 6 or 7 parts. If it takes you more then a hour your doing it wrong. I normally spend more time screwing in stuff then installing the parts.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
3 hours? How many computers have you built? Your putting in 6 or 7 parts. If it takes you more then a hour your doing it wrong. I normally spend more time screwing in stuff then installing the parts.
Some people are very cautious with parts or nervous because they don't have complete understanding of how everything works / isn't actually fragile / etc.
Making cable management work and leaving extra time for trouble shooting makes sense to me.

If I'm working on computers at work I'll blaze through things, but assembling my own system I'll be over meticulous about every single thing.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
Some people are very cautious with parts or nervous because they don't have complete understanding of how everything works / isn't actually fragile / etc.
Making cable management work and leaving extra time for trouble shooting makes sense to me.

If I'm working on computers at work I'll blaze through things, but assembling my own system I'll be over meticulous about every single thing.
Well its not like I do it sloppy, I guess I'm just used to it. I've been building them since I was 15 or so and now I'm 28. Different people, different styles I guess.
 

GraveHorizon

poop meter feature creep
Some people are very cautious with parts or nervous because they don't have complete understanding of how everything works / isn't actually fragile / etc.
Making cable management work and leaving extra time for trouble shooting makes sense to me.

If I'm working on computers at work I'll blaze through things, but assembling my own system I'll be over meticulous about every single thing.

I'm more worried about assembling the unit than the cost of it. What if I break the pins on the CPU? What if parts don't fit right, or are already broken? What if I botch the software/drivers installation? When I put my machine together, it's going to be more intense than a game of Operation. And I'll probably pull back my carpets and get nude, to ensure it's a static-free zone.
 
So what is everyone's opinion on this set up? I'm happy with 360 quality graphics for a long time, I just want things to run smoothly for the next 3 years or so.

CPU/Video Card: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_64&item_id=044420

Motherboard: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_64&item_id=044420

Ram: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_309&item_id=039571

Case: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_112&item_id=032151

The case comes with a PSU, and I'm going to install an external HDD into the computer, as an internal HDD.

Is this a decent budget set up?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I'm more worried about assembling the unit than the cost of it. What if I break the pins on the CPU? What if parts don't fit right, or are already broken? What if I botch the software/drivers installation? When I put my machine together, it's going to be more intense than a game of Operation. And I'll probably pull back my carpets and get nude, to ensure it's a static-free zone.
CPUs have no pins anymore because of that issue.
Driver installation is one CD that can auto install everything. At least, on my ASUS board.

It's a lot easier.
So what is everyone's opinion on this set up? I'm happy with 360 quality graphics for a long time, I just want things to run smoothly for the next 3 years or so.

CPU/Video Card: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_64&item_id=044420

Motherboard: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_64&item_id=044420

Ram: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_309&item_id=039571

Case: http://canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_112&item_id=032151

The case comes with a PSU, and I'm going to install an external HDD into the computer, as an internal HDD.

Is this a decent budget set up?
CPU is poor choice, RAM is for laptops, PSU probably an old extreme power which is not the worst, but not great either.

Please take a few minutes to look at the First Post (Original Post) in the thread.
 

MrBig

Member
Doing some preliminary research into parts, here's what I got.

Code:
Research

Case - Not sure what exactly I need to be looking for here beside cable management.
$100 Carbide http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139008
$60 HAF http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233

Mobo - Want UEFI. Is the Z68 and 1155 chipset/socket compatible with Ivy?
$132 UEFI Z68 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773

RAM - Need plenty for art/production applications
$100 16gb http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-233-143

GPU - Currently running a 9600 and was able to run the majority of new games in the last few years until now, so I'm thinking go with the same level. 
$280 560ti http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130758
$299 660ti rumored

CPU - I doubt if I'll overclock, is there any other reason to get a K? Again, waiting for Ivy, will the prices be similar?
$300 2600 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071
$210 2500 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
$280 i5-3550K Rumored

Cooling - GAF reccomendation
$35 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

PSU - I believe I'll only need the 620?
$90 620w http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
$105 750w http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139021

HDD - Prices on these still too damn high
$150 1.5tb WD http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136793

SSD - Want to do an Intel SRT setup with the OS on the SSD
$95 64gb http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441
$165 128gb http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148442

Soundcard - For my ATH-M50s
$30 xonar dg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132020

Keyboard - No research yet

Monitor - Want a large 2K monitor but US retail prices are a joke, as is running a larger monitor at 1080
(korean 2k - http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 )
$372 27" 1440p IPS http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-IPSB-Quad-HD-2560x1440-16-9-D-Sub-Computer-Monitor-/190645588882?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2c635cd392#ht_3816wt_1154
$352 27" 1440p http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-Lite-Quad-HD-2560x1440-16-9-D-Sub-Computer-Monitor-/220961455233?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3372543c81#ht_5861wt_1154
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed

Still going to wait for nv 600s and Ivy, and going to spend more time researching shit, since this is my first time building my own tower.
Opinions?
 

54-46!

Member
I'm going to buy a Thinkpad X121e.. but it has been out for a while now, do you guys think they'll release a new model any time soon?
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Everything looks good there MrBig. You've done your research, good on you.

I suggest you bump up the CPU to a 2500K just to leave yourself the option, since your cooling and motherboard will allow overclocking anyways. $20 for a potential 30-40% boost on the CPU is worth it.
 
looks like a 7850 is roughly twice as powerful as my 4890. I might be time to upgrade. Nothing on the horizon than i am having trouble running. Still might hold off.
 

Yoritomo

Member
For all the talk of the big high end cards, I really think the 7870 is going to be the awesome bang for buck mid range part this gen of cards.

I'm waiting for Big Kepler to replace my dual 580s with a single card.
 

Rufus

Member
For all the talk of the big high end cards, I really think the 7870 is going to be the awesome bang for buck mid range part this gen of cards.
I have my sights set on the 7850 for the moment. 300€ for the 7870 is still too rich for me. I'll be waiting for Nvidia's midrange though to make a final decision.
 
Okay, so after having my dream to build a new PC last year put on hold because of having a baby, I'm back and ready to get back into it!

I'm looking at doing a budget build, so I'm planning on starting with one of the builds in the OP. But I have a logistics question. I will be moving to Australia at the end of year; does this affect my purchasing choices? If so, how much?
 

Mr Swine

Banned
Hey guys, have a question. My mom wants to buy a laptop so she can take it to different rooms or with her when she is out. She wants it to have an intel I5/I7 CPU with an ok GPU so when my brother comes over so he can play World of Warcraft. It has to cost as much as £650
 

schwupp

Member
is it still the case that buying a pre-build pc is cheaper than buying the components?
i've compared prices (eu):
i5 2500k + gtx560 ti + 8gig ram + mobo = +500€
one week ago i saw the same setup as complete pc with a i7 for 600€.

seems like i should have took the deal :-/.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Okay, so after having my dream to build a new PC last year put on hold because of having a baby, I'm back and ready to get back into it!

I'm looking at doing a budget build, so I'm planning on starting with one of the builds in the OP. But I have a logistics question. I will be moving to Australia at the end of year; does this affect my purchasing choices? If so, how much?
AUS gets shafted with prices and selection. Buy before you go.
Almost all PSUs have a 115/230 switch or an internal one so you don't need to worry about that.
is it still the case that buying a pre-build pc is cheaper than buying the components?
i've compared prices (eu):
i5 2500k + gtx560 ti + 8gig ram + mobo = +500€
one week ago i saw the same setup as complete pc with a i7 for 600€.

seems like i should have took the deal :-/.
Prices are comparable, but quality often is not. Under cutting on PSU and Mobo are the main offenders.
Warranty on desktops often starts at 1 year, maybe 2. If you buy your own parts you'll have at least 2 years on all your parts, usually 3 or more.
Overclocking on a P67 or Z68 chipset with an unlocked CPU is also something you should consider. Often they will ship with a 2500 or 2600 instead so you won't be able to overclock to 4.2Ghz+

That said, prebuilts have come a long way in transparency of parts and such and aren't awful purchases if you are looking to save time.
 
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