Looks the same as all other non ROG Asus board. Guess that answers what you think of those
Feature wise though that board is loaded.
But its ugly.
Looks the same as all other non ROG Asus board. Guess that answers what you think of those
Feature wise though that board is loaded.
But its ugly.
Any thoughts on the Evga x79 Classified Motherboard?
Sex. That is all
lol...well that pretty much sums it up....any more "detailed" info?
Also, still need someone to suggest some RAM for this mobo/3960x CPU. I dont need alot of ram, I am just gaming so 8gigs would be fine or even 16 since ram is not too expensive.
Where can I find a GTX 680 in stock? Seems to be sold out everywhere I look.
I bought the 128GB M4 and used THIS GUIDE to set it up, all in all pretty easy for Windows 7.
Thanks, I'll give it a read later.
Exciting news, some of my parts just arrived by UPS. Signed for it all and they're now sitting in my living room, waiting for the rest to arrive. One of the boxes is pretty huge, and I had to look at the order details to remember what was in it. The CPU, hard drive, "How could it be so big?" Oh yeah, and monitor. That 1080p's gonna be sweet! Shame I gotta wait the Blu-ray drive and power supply to get here next week most likely, and that SSD I just ordered. More time to get psyched up for the setup, I suppose.
Shit, I just remembered about the mail-in rebate for the graphics card. Gotta get on that so I can get my $9 back.
Unless you have a current PC you're running it on, hold off on that. Once you cut the UPC out, you're stuck with it. If it's defective, you'll have to RMA it for a sloppy refurb. Hold off until you're sure it works.
Looking to invest in another SSD which will be used for games. What 240-300GB range SSD is the the 'best' right now, from a performance / price perspective as well?
But the rebate terms say it has to be postmarked by the 31st to be eligible, and the rest of the parts won't be here by tomorrow. Am I out $9?
Samsung 830
Vertex 3 is cheaper but some people have issues with OCZ. (I have 3 no problems yet)
Perfectly capable budget build.
Not sure if the WD Green head parking issues are fixed, any other HDD options?
Looking to invest in another SSD which will be used for games. What 240-300GB range SSD is the the 'best' right now, from a performance / price perspective as well? Been eyeing Intel and the HyperX
Unfortunately I don't have any knowledge on recommending anything other than F3/F4 drives and WD Blacks. Now with supply shortage tons of older drives of all models and tech is being sold again.Good, thanks.
Within £5-10 there's the Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.D, Seagate ST1000DM003, the Seagate ST1000DL002 (SATA 2 vs 3 I believe being the difference 'tween the last 2? For all the difference it makes with an HDD...). Are these any better?
I like this retailer, but the HDD range is poor.
You want 2x2GB sticks, but with prices as they are you should just get 2x4GB 1.5VHow is this hard drive? It's on sale for $80, but the sale ends at midnight. The reviews have been all over the map
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/searchtools/item_upsell.asp?EdpNo=7331904&msg=
and this memory?
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=91221&sku=P33-5310
I'll be using it with the h61 motherboard, and i3 2100.
Update drivers. Plug and replug all power and the card itself. Downclock the card by 15% and see if errors still happen.edit: NVM, I've taken this to techsupportGAF... =) sorry
Not sure if this is a good place to ask for help, but I did post about putting in a new gtx 560ti awhile back. (Which went way better then my first attempt at do it myself upgrading where I fried the mother board with static electricity)...
So everything was working fine for a couple months and now randomly, games that had no issues before are suffering from like missing textures, stretched pixels, freezing, etc... and it doesn't seem like there's any rhyme or reason... One day I'll play a game for hours and everything is cool and then the next there will be crazy graphical anomalies as soon as I turn it on....
sometimes they fix themselves if I alt-tab out and come back, other times I need to restart the pc, other times I can't seem to fix it at all until I try again later or the next day and everything is fine again.
I'm thinking maybe it's a heat issue (but my case isn't hot, the fans aren't going crazy) or maybe it's a power supply issues (but then why isn't it consistent?) or maybe there's a loose connection?
anyone have any ideas?.. point me in the right direction?
Next month might want to see where the GTX 660/670 falls and if that does anything for GPU prices. Ivy Bridge as well.Planning on building this in the next month or so. Comments/suggestions welcome.
CPU- Intel Core i5 2500K
Motherboard- Asus P8Z68 V Gen 3 Socket 1155
Video Card- Asus HD7850 2GB
RAM- Corsair vengeance blue 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1.5V 1600
HDD- Seagate or Western Digital SATAIII 500GB
Optical Drive- Blu-ray writer internal
Power Supply- Cooler Master eXtreme power plus 600W (bought)
Case- Cooler Master HAF 912 (bought)
What is the size of your current SSD? I have the Samsung 830 256gb SSD and it has been more than fine for me. I do use Steam-mover for games that really dont benefit much from using a SSD...I have about 30 Steam games and no way would they all fit on my SSD, so I looked into the steam-mover and it has worked out great for me so far. I just think that SSD's are still too pricey to not use a standard HDD along side with a SSD.
It's up to you. I'm just saying that once you cut the UPC from a box, you can't return it to the store you purchased it from. So you'll have to RMA it to the manufacturer and get a refurb back.
How long ago did you buy it? Usually they give you more than a couple days to submit a rebate. If you've had the card close to 30 days and it's out of the return window anyways, cut away. Otherwise, I'm just saying. Something to think about.
Can someone give me the breakdown as to the difference between I7-2600 & I7-2600k.
I searched it up but they look to be the same thing or what?
The K version can overclock, the normal version cannot.
Sigh, my 360 PC controller receiver just died. I'm wondering for those who has their receiver die ever used the F1 soldering fix. Don't really want to buy a new controller package just for a new receiver.
ah ok thanks. I don't usually overclock so should be ok.
i will get the k for $10 dollar more, add another $30 for cm 212 and you get 'free' extra 400-500mhz speedup...mild overclocking is simple and safe, should be encourage if you are building your own pc.
you see intel already charges $15 premium for 2700k over 2600k, and that is for only a 100mhz speedup..
doing the sum $40 for the extra 500mhz and quieter fan, it is more worth it in your rig and it has better resale value too.
Can someone give me the breakdown as to the difference between I7-2600 & I7-2600k.
I searched it up but they look to be the same thing or what?
Is the hyper 212+ enough to cool a 1090t if I overclock it to around 4.5?
Or should I go with a dual fan route?
Thinking of a noctua
Nice.You can slap two fans on the 212, just need an extra set of mounting brackets and a 92mm fan. Can't recall if it comes with the extra mounting brackets for another fan.
I'm not super up to date, but I thought those topped around 4.0Ghz on sane voltages and petered massively out by 4.2Ghz. That puts out a lot of heat as well.Is the hyper 212+ enough to cool a 1090t if I overclock it to around 4.5?
Or should I go with a dual fan route?
Thinking of a noctua
Wow that's it?I'm not super up to date, but I thought those topped around 4.0Ghz on sane voltages and petered massively out by 4.2Ghz. That puts out a lot of heat as well.
CM212+ is a great cooler, and dual fan setups provide very minimal benefit over single fan.
Nice.
Thanks.
Does it have to be the same fan?
What secondary fan has peeps been using?
Ah Thx sethos.
Just one more q.
Regular 212+ or evo?
Thanks bro.Regular