30fps usually isn't that hard to get, most people aim for 60. Though some games are very demanding.
Intel is much better for emulation.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Intel is much better for emulation.
What 1920x1200 DVI IPS monitor would you guys recommend for me?
I'm an image quality guy, so this is what it definitely should have (in order of importance):
- as little light bleeding as possible
- deeeeeeep black levels
- virtually no ghosting
- excellent color reproduction.
My current monitor is a 19" CRT Samsung SyncMaster 959NF. I've been using it for about 9 years now. Have been a very satisfied user.
I don't have much knowledge of LCD monitors.
I'm an image quality guy, so this is what it definitely should have (in order of importance):
- as little light bleeding as possible
- deeeeeeep black levels
- virtually no ghosting
- excellent color reproduction.
My current monitor is a 19" CRT Samsung SyncMaster 959NF. I've been using it for about 9 years now. Have been a very satisfied user.
I don't have much knowledge of LCD monitors.
Personally I'm a big supporter of Dell monitors, look at their Ultrasharp series. I have the Dell 30" and an old WFP, never experienced any ghosting and the colours are amazing.
ComputerMKII
Banned
Is this a good deal?
Is this a good deal?
OCZ SSDs have bad reputation, just get a Crucial, Samsung or Intel one.
faceless007
Member
I successfully did that fix with a $10 CircuitWriter pen from Fry's. Still works fine 3 years later.
I do keep it plugged into a USB hub and not the motherboard itself, out of worry that without a fuse it might try to draw too much current and damage the mobo.
faceless007
Member
At that res there aren't that many available (which is sad because I like it too). I got a Dell U2412M a few months ago and have been really happy with it. I'm not enough of an image quality guy to know how well it fits your requirements, but I haven't noticed any ghosting or backlight bleeding at all.
Finally got my cooler installed. As I feared though, there is not even an inch of space between the two cards now. I do have another PCI-E slot I could use, but the card won't fit there with the PSU. I guess my only option is a bigger case... but I really love my current one.
Temps are better. Shaved off about 10C off my load temps which is still pretty good. Fans are pretty much silent and that's a HUGE plus.
Inch is plenty of space.
Oh, this was for games only? Yeah, only reason to go SB-E is if you're doing multimedia stuff. Just get a killer SB motherboard for tri GPUs since you were going that route. Could get crazy and get into watercooled stuff as well.
Same here, only with my 2500k. All I did was change a number in the BIOS from 33 to 45 and poof! 4.5 GHz completely stable in prime95/IBT.
Skyward Sword is a 30 fps game, that's all you get at 100% speed. You can't up the framerate of a game through Dolphin.
First line of the OP:
Congrats on the improvement, but why is your PSU fan facing upward? Even if you're on carpet, you can still get air to it. Facing upwards leads to airflow competition with your GPU, and more dust settling inside.Finally got my cooler installed. As I feared though, there is not even an inch of space between the two cards now. I do have another PCI-E slot I could use, but the card won't fit there with the PSU. I guess my only option is a bigger case... but I really love my current one.
Temps are better. Shaved off about 10C off my load temps which is still pretty good. Fans are pretty much silent and that's a HUGE plus.
That's the thing. I don't have an inch.
·feist·;36526313 said:
Hm. Never actually thought of that. I will swap it out and see if it improves anything.
The lack of space is definitely an issue.
Top card 75+ during Heaven benchmark
Bottom Card 55
(probably doesn't help that it's pushing 100+ FPS)
That's the thing. I don't have an inch.
Sexual innuendo in there ...
faceless007
Member
·feist·;36296373 said:CM 690 II Advanced (USB 3.0 version) -vs- non-USB 3.0 differences
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=32710728&postcount=17226
CM 690 II Advanced Black & White Edition
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=34569406&postcount=2502
old 690 ii:
new 690 ii:
You lose the larger CPU cutout, and cable grommets, but there's a simple solution to that, if it's a big deal to you.
$55 case + $10 grommets + $17 USB 3.0 full case top panel (again, only if you need it) = ~$82. Or, roughly $0-20 less than a factory USB 3.0 revised 690 II (depending on where you buy it), and you "save" the $15 CM charges for the GPU bracket accessory kit that USB 3.0 owners would need to buy.
I wanted to follow up on this post. I went ahead and bought it (the old USB2.0 version) for $60 after rebate, and was pleasantly surprised that despite your pics and Newegg's pics, the one I got has the larger CPU cutout and the rubber grommets and looks like the "new 690II" pic above, as well as comes with the GPU holder. The only thing that seems to be missing is the USB3.0 top panel, which like you said can be ordered separately. So it seems CM is shipping the updated case in both versions, USB3.0 and USB2.0.
Now to wait till Ivy Bridge and a more reasonably priced Kepler. :/
Flipping the PSU helped a bit.
Tried the Heaven benchmark again... everything max, frame-rate unlocked and it eventually hit 80 (55 on GPU2). So in these kind of situations it's only doing moderately better then stock cooler performance wise. Thing is pretty much silent though. Eventually I guess I'll just go for a bigger tower so I can use that bottom PCI-E slot and get some better airflow.
Tried the Heaven benchmark again... everything max, frame-rate unlocked and it eventually hit 80 (55 on GPU2). So in these kind of situations it's only doing moderately better then stock cooler performance wise. Thing is pretty much silent though. Eventually I guess I'll just go for a bigger tower so I can use that bottom PCI-E slot and get some better airflow.
So, though it's doing "moderately" better than stock coolers, it's silent, which is a huge improvement, right?
So up the fan speed to where your stock coolers would be dB-wise and see how well it does then.
Also, what kind of case you have, what is the airflow situation like, and what kind of fans do you have in there? Also looks like you could tidy it up quite a bit to help with airflow.
So up the fan speed to where your stock coolers would be dB-wise and see how well it does then.
Also, what kind of case you have, what is the airflow situation like, and what kind of fans do you have in there? Also looks like you could tidy it up quite a bit to help with airflow.
Going to guess, and say... Corsair 500R, with top HDD cage removed? White?
Whichever case it is, IIRC, he said he had most/all optional fan slots filled, but didn't specify intake, or exhaust.
Nice. I should've been clearer. If you look at the first 3.0 link I posted, it shows that on the box there's a picture denoting which version of the revised 690 II is inside. To be on the safe side, and knowing that lots of retailers still have stock of the non-revised USB 2.0s, I used that as a baseline.
So, it's time. I've got a nice fat stack of cash coming in next month, and my C2D system isn't getting any younger.
My goal is a relatively cheap i5 system that has a nice easy path of upgrades.
CPU: i5 2500k. CPU upgrades aren't my cup of tea, so something I can overclock and rely on for awhile sounds good. $180 from Micro Center.
Mobo: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 seems well-liked so I am leaning toward that at $122.
RAM: Going to blow $30 on 4GB of whatever sticks happen to be on sale the week I pull the trigger. I run Windows 7 in 32-bit and don't see the need for more.
Graphics: Re-using a 8800GT from my old system. Current monitor is 1920x1080 so I want to stall on this purchase for now, and slap in something nice in a month or two. $0
Storage: Using the drives from my previous system, $0.
Power: XFX ProSeries P1-450S-X2B9 450W, in anticipation of a semi-beefy graphics card being slotted into this machine, $50.
Case: This I need help on. I want something cheap, no or very few obnoxious LEDs. Durability preferred over flashy looks. A plain black case would be ideal, preferably $60 or under. Antec 300?
Optical drive: Some cheap $20 DVD-RW job, my current drive is flaky.
Sound: Onboard. $0
So that totals out to about $462. I figure sometime after that I will slap in a nice video card for around $250, and be set. Any problems with this plan?
My goal is a relatively cheap i5 system that has a nice easy path of upgrades.
CPU: i5 2500k. CPU upgrades aren't my cup of tea, so something I can overclock and rely on for awhile sounds good. $180 from Micro Center.
Mobo: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 seems well-liked so I am leaning toward that at $122.
RAM: Going to blow $30 on 4GB of whatever sticks happen to be on sale the week I pull the trigger. I run Windows 7 in 32-bit and don't see the need for more.
Graphics: Re-using a 8800GT from my old system. Current monitor is 1920x1080 so I want to stall on this purchase for now, and slap in something nice in a month or two. $0
Storage: Using the drives from my previous system, $0.
Power: XFX ProSeries P1-450S-X2B9 450W, in anticipation of a semi-beefy graphics card being slotted into this machine, $50.
Case: This I need help on. I want something cheap, no or very few obnoxious LEDs. Durability preferred over flashy looks. A plain black case would be ideal, preferably $60 or under. Antec 300?
Optical drive: Some cheap $20 DVD-RW job, my current drive is flaky.
Sound: Onboard. $0
So that totals out to about $462. I figure sometime after that I will slap in a nice video card for around $250, and be set. Any problems with this plan?
Upgraded my BIOS and decided to OC my chip. I'm following a guide over at Overclock.net to do so. Here were the preliminary steps:
To be set before starting overclock
On ASUS P8P67 Pro Motherboard, hopefully the names for voltage settings etc wont be too different across motherboards.
AI Overclock Tuner - Manual
BCLK/PEG frequency - 100 (Never Change this)
Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
EPU Power Saving Mode - Disable
VRM Frequency - Manual and 350
CPU Current Capability - 140%
CPU PLL Overvoltage - Disabled
Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
NOTICE: Please use Manual CPU Vcore whilst stress testing until you have found your stable amount, this helps to keep the voltage stable and rules that out as a possible caus of instability if you are having problems. After testing and when you have found your stable vcore, switch to Offset voltage for reduced power use,
Make sure you set cpu vcore to manual and enter the correct amount of vcore, do NOT use 'Auto' voltage as this can use voltages like its going out of fashion (mine decided 1.504v was a good idea )
Now for the Voltages
CPU Voltage - Set to 1.20v which is stock CPU voltage for now
DRAM Voltage - 1.65/1.50 etc as per your memory module label
VCCSA - Auto
VCCIO - Auto
CPU PLL Voltage - Auto
PCH Voltage - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Enabled
CPU configurations
CPU Ratio - Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
Active Processor Cores - All
Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology - AFAIK This is only necessary for F@H on a 2500k
Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
Turbo Mode - Enabled
CPU C1E - Enabled/Auto
CPU C3 Report - Auto
CPU C6 Report - Auto
I started at 1.2v @4ghz as they suggested and also ran the Prime95 test with their recommended settings:
Currently set at 1.26v:
Are these numbers in the pic looking good so far? I need to do the second test that they recommend, but I was just curious as to how it was looking so far (from those with more OC experience).
To be set before starting overclock
On ASUS P8P67 Pro Motherboard, hopefully the names for voltage settings etc wont be too different across motherboards.
AI Overclock Tuner - Manual
BCLK/PEG frequency - 100 (Never Change this)
Turbo Ratio - By All Cores
EPU Power Saving Mode - Disable
VRM Frequency - Manual and 350
CPU Current Capability - 140%
CPU PLL Overvoltage - Disabled
Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
NOTICE: Please use Manual CPU Vcore whilst stress testing until you have found your stable amount, this helps to keep the voltage stable and rules that out as a possible caus of instability if you are having problems. After testing and when you have found your stable vcore, switch to Offset voltage for reduced power use,
Make sure you set cpu vcore to manual and enter the correct amount of vcore, do NOT use 'Auto' voltage as this can use voltages like its going out of fashion (mine decided 1.504v was a good idea )
Now for the Voltages
CPU Voltage - Set to 1.20v which is stock CPU voltage for now
DRAM Voltage - 1.65/1.50 etc as per your memory module label
VCCSA - Auto
VCCIO - Auto
CPU PLL Voltage - Auto
PCH Voltage - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Enabled
CPU configurations
CPU Ratio - Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Enabled
Active Processor Cores - All
Limit CPUID Maximum - Disabled
Execute Disable Bit - Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology - AFAIK This is only necessary for F@H on a 2500k
Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology - Enabled
Turbo Mode - Enabled
CPU C1E - Enabled/Auto
CPU C3 Report - Auto
CPU C6 Report - Auto
I started at 1.2v @4ghz as they suggested and also ran the Prime95 test with their recommended settings:
Currently set at 1.26v:
Are these numbers in the pic looking good so far? I need to do the second test that they recommend, but I was just curious as to how it was looking so far (from those with more OC experience).
Correct me if I'm wrong but did you go through all of that just to push that 2600k to 4.5? It'll do 4.5 at the change of one number, not touching anything else - Increasing the voltage isn't even required.
EDIT: Oh you set voltage manually at a lower number. I'm so tired, that's a good idea.
EDIT: Oh you set voltage manually at a lower number. I'm so tired, that's a good idea.
Yes I manually set it at 1.26v. The temps seem kind of high to me though for that voltage...
hmm
maybe i got a nice chip! It's running the 2nd prime test now. temps maxing out a 61c
what test did you try in p95? blend?
Yeah, Blend.
Got a BSOD called "a clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval" sounds scary ...
EDIT: Went back to my standard OC, works fine. My load temperatures are almost identical to yours, some cores are a tad lower, third one is almost 8 degrees higher.
Will need to look up some OC settings on my motherboard, find a lower voltage settings and see some decreased temps.
1.26V for those clocks is above average.
Try 1.35V and work your way down if that is stable.
My 2500K doesn't clock super great.
Also you should be using offset voltage after you find the voltage it works at. Seems just as stable, but lower power at idle.
Thought you said you also had fans on the motherboard side of the HDD rack, like I had suggested? For starters, reverse your side fan, and then monitor idle/load results - CPU included. Your GPUs went from external, to internal exhaust. Unfortunately, Corsair's 200mm fans are fairly crap, though it's still worth giving it a shot. Take note of ambient as much as you can. If you have spare 120mm fans around, try placing one in the floor fan opening (intake), and also at the leading edge of where your top HDD cage would be. Motherboard side, so test it by quickly zip/twist-tying it there (like this, or this). It will act as an air guide for the front fan. You can try both bottom, and "invisible HDD cage" mount, one at a time, or simultaneously. If the two fans are high speed, try one of them undervolted/slowed down. You may also be a candidate for (partial) reverse air flow.
McHuj
Member
I bought the bitfenix shinobi for about 60 on sale from ncix. Case is awesome. Quiet, pretty much solid black, and everything is tool free. For the price, I'm very happy with it.
Ran the 2nd test they recommended ("If you can pass 15-20 mins of this test, restart the tortue test and use 1792 - 1792 for the FFT size. Agaian do this for 15-20 mins") for about 45 minutes and as I mentioned max temps were 61. My idle temps are higher though..about 35c across all 4 cores. I'm assuming this is because I set it manually and even though the processor downclocks to 1600mhz, the voltage stays the same. What's the way to re-mediate this? Offset voltage? Don't really understand how that works though kind of weird...
If I go to 4.6 what's the best way to handle voltage? Leave it be and see if it is stable or bump it up a few notches (1.28-1.30)?
Go 1.55V and max multiplier plus 5Mhz Block OC. Do it.
Okay, 1.33 seems stable and I used all the settings Smokey posted. Idle the temps dropped almost 5* on some cores, down to 33 but once I prime them, the volt goes over 1.4xx and some of the numbers hit 70, which is more than auto voltage - Why? Shouldn't it stick to 1.33 voltage or at least in that area or is it because I've give it so much leeway with all the settings?
EDIT: God damn, nevermind. Went back to the BIOS and it had set some completely random settings, looked like Auto OC settings ( Which I certainly didn't use! )
EDIT: God damn, nevermind. Went back to the BIOS and it had set some completely random settings, looked like Auto OC settings ( Which I certainly didn't use! )
Sounds like you're describing the HAF 912 to me.
So how does offset voltage work. You set something manually, test it out, go back into BIOS and set it to offset - That has your manual voltage registered, you choose "minus" offset and perhaps do a number of say, 0.310 meaning that's the amount of voltage it can go down while in, say, idle?
IIRC, It auto compensates voltage based on speed.
So if 4200MHz is 1.300V and you want it to run at 1.280V
Then you set:
Offset (-)
0.020V
The benefit is that offset allows voltage to change so at idle your CPU will be 1600MHz @ 1.00V instead of 1.30V.
no it's a bit more complicated : SB cpu's don't have a fixed voltage on the auto setting, because of all the downclocking when idle and other energy saving features. Also once you start overclocking I believe the auto voltage increases as well. The offset basically takes this same voltage as the auto voltage, but then increases or decreases that voltage according to the offset you select. So with my positive offset I increase both my voltage under idle AND load scenarios (which is a good thing because it mainly crashed on idle without the offset)
Basically it just involves quite a bit of trial and error, and always check the voltage using monitoring apps and stress tests to ensure your offset works as intended.
I saw a 1.6ish voltage once that's why it says this in the link you posted "Make sure you set cpu vcore to manual and enter the correct amount of vcore, do NOT use 'Auto' voltage as this can use voltages like its going out of fashion (mine decided 1.504v was a good idea )"
that's why it says this in the link you posted "Make sure you set cpu vcore to manual and enter the correct amount of vcore, do NOT use 'Auto' voltage as this can use voltages like its going out of fashion (mine decided 1.504v was a good idea )"I can already warn you that these two
Load-Line Calibration - Ultra High
Phase Control/Duty Control - Extreme
do NOT play nice with offset
all the other settings on my p8p67 pro are the same, except for those two because I'm using an offset that nets me around 1.40v under load (4.8 ghz 2600K, you don't want to run such a voltage on an aircooler though). Also for 4.8 you'll need to enable PLL Overvoltage which will disable your systems ability to resume from sleep/hibernate (without crashing)
Finally got my cooler installed. As I feared though, there is not even an inch of space between the two cards now. I do have another PCI-E slot I could use, but the card won't fit there with the PSU. I guess my only option is a bigger case... but I really love my current one.
Temps are better. Shaved off about 10C off my load temps which is still pretty good. Fans are pretty much silent and that's a HUGE plus.
nice
with my single accelero having a side fan on outtake duty helped a lot; I could feel the hot air coming out when gaming lolI'd try to get another fan in front of the 2 cards to force in cool air between them from the front, then flip the side fan on your case to take the hot air out
Your a genius ·feist·!
That air guide fan really did wonders. Temps in Heaven went down from 80 to 70. I was also mistaken, my top exhaust fans are 120mm.
Hm. I'll be trying that next.
That air guide fan really did wonders. Temps in Heaven went down from 80 to 70. I was also mistaken, my top exhaust fans are 120mm.
nice
I'd try to get another fan in front of the 2 cards to force in cool air between them from the front, then flip the side fan on your case to take the hot air out
Hm. I'll be trying that next.
Hmmm, it all does sound a bit confusing. Let's pretend I found the sweet spot of 1.33 manual voltage for my overclock. now I need to set the offset. What kind of ranges should I play with, are we talking tiny amounts? If I set it to (-) 0.100, does that mean it'll throttle down to 1.23 ( ish ) when idle and the throttle back up when in use?
Also, it doesn't seem speedstep is working much at all right now, seem to be permanently stuck on my overclock and not hitting the 1.6GHz at all, how come? ( It is enabled )
EDIT: I did actually set my offset to (-) 0.100 and tried running Prime. It stays at 1.2xx while running but it doesn't BSOD, which it usually did at anything under 1.3
( This is during Prime )
I'm confused now.
Also, it doesn't seem speedstep is working much at all right now, seem to be permanently stuck on my overclock and not hitting the 1.6GHz at all, how come? ( It is enabled )
EDIT: I did actually set my offset to (-) 0.100 and tried running Prime. It stays at 1.2xx while running but it doesn't BSOD, which it usually did at anything under 1.3
( This is during Prime )
I'm confused now.
Very nice. If you have time, or like to tweak you can keep tooling about, and taking note of the results, to see how much cooler, or quieter you can eventually get your build down to.
*cough*
·feist· said:
start with offset (positive or negative) set to ZERO and see if that is stable
stable => go play with negative offset to decrease energy consumption
unstable => go play with positive offset until you get it stable. I'd take steps of .1 volt.
I always stressed when checking for the right voltage by using Prime 95 set to blend -> custom with around 6 of my 8 gb of memory used. Guess the integrated memory controller on my cpu is most sensitive to voltage.
also I warn you that you may see stability under stress, but that it will BSOD once you are just browsing or something like that. That would be due to the voltage dropping too much when idle, whereas the load voltage is still OK. In that case you'd need to increase your offset (or use a positive one).
as for the speedstep ... dunno that should still work
sure there are no applications running?
Hawk269
Member
What Motheboard would you recommend for my 2600k? Looking at my P67 it is nice, but I am thinking if I ever want to go 3xSLI then I would need a new board cause I dont think my crrent can pull i off.
start with offset (positive or negative) set to ZERO and see if that is stable
stable => go play with negative offset to decrease energy consumption
unstable => go play with positive offset until you get it stable. I'd take steps of .1 volt.
I always stressed when checking for the right voltage by using Prime 95 set to blend -> custom with around 6 of my 8 gb of memory used. Guess the integrated memory controller on my cpu is most sensitive to voltage.
also I warn you that you may see stability under stress, but that it will BSOD once you are just browsing or something like that. That would be due to the voltage dropping too much when idle, whereas the load voltage is still OK. In that case you'd need to increase your offset (or use a positive one).
as for the speedstep ... dunno that should still work
Soo......if I'm at 1.26 now and I am set at manual it stays there regardles...what do I need to get it to use a lower voltage at idle? What offset would I do?
Vigilant Walrus
Member
I wish Ivy Bridge would come out... jebus christ.
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