oh shii thnks
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
oh shii thnks
in P67 or Z68 flavor (or maybe the new Z77)
Asus Maximus IV Extreme(-Z)
Gigabyte UD-7's
EVGA FTW's
all seem like good candidates to me... I stick to Asus personally.
yes with manual it is always fixed. For offset, try to get an offset that also nets you 1.26 under load (and pray that it is still high enough on idle then). So basically set offset to zero, check load voltage, then adjust until you're at 1.26ish at load. Then use it for some days to confirm it is truly stable.
offset is mainly trial and error, but once you've found a setting that works it makes for a wonderfully efficient and powerful CPU
(compared to previous generations of CPUs which would always run full blast when overclocked) but personally I think 1.26 is a pretty low voltage anyway, it doesn't really hurt to run that 24/7 (although offset would make it slightly more efficient). In my 1.4v scenario, offset allows me to go down to 1.2x on idle as I wouldn't like to blast 1.4v 24/7 for no reason
---
also the BenQ XL2420T is awesome ... has some of the typical TN quirks of course but gaming feels sooooo good on it. Not only does the motion feel very smooth, it is also much sharper. On my 32" Samsung playing BF3 I often felt that I didn't notice a lot of things because a lot of details became a bit hazy/smudged/whatever due to the FXAA and the high fidelity of the environments. And I'm sitting pretty close to that 32" so you would think I'd see everything. Now with the BenQ everything looks much clearer and sharper, and I feel I spot a lot more.
3D Vision 2 is very awesome as well with the correct titles, but I've never experienced any other type of 3D so I've got nothing to compare it with. I want to replay Witcher 2 with it once I get some new cards
RoG or EVGA FTW the way to go. RoG generally better quality/features, but EVGA has some nifty OC'ing trinkets that are enticing as well. Alternatively, you could wait for ivybridge (Z77) motherboards, and just plop your 2600K in that when you're ready to go Tri-SLI.
So, after almost 3 hours of fiddling around with this stuff I might have found the sweet spot. Admittedly I still don't fully understand the offset but I'm just stumbling around. After having re-enabled speedstep, the core voltage shown in BIOS was the idle core basically, so I could offset based on that, instead of max core.
I gave it a (+) 0.005 which means it's hitting 1.36 during load according to CPU-Z, same numbers as a manual 1.33, so that's the buffer I guess. During idle, it bounces back and forth between 0.984 and 1.056 which seems stable at the moment but I can always add a bit offset if I run into problems.
So basically, that means the CPU runs between 9-11 degrees (C) cooler on idle compared to auto voltage and during prime, it's around 5-7 degrees cooler. So it idles at 29-30 now which I'm more than happy with.
So thank you Smokey for making me stay up till 4 in the morning with you devilish settings and putting all sorts of stuff into my head and to Hazaro + n0n44m for trying to explain the offset thing, still confused as ever but gave me a tiny bit of enlightenment
EDIT: Holy hell, it's almost hitting 25* which means that's a 15* idle reduction compared to my old speedstepped 4.5GHz Auto volt overclock.
I gave it a (+) 0.005 which means it's hitting 1.36 during load according to CPU-Z, same numbers as a manual 1.33, so that's the buffer I guess. During idle, it bounces back and forth between 0.984 and 1.056 which seems stable at the moment but I can always add a bit offset if I run into problems.
So basically, that means the CPU runs between 9-11 degrees (C) cooler on idle compared to auto voltage and during prime, it's around 5-7 degrees cooler. So it idles at 29-30 now which I'm more than happy with.
So thank you Smokey for making me stay up till 4 in the morning with you devilish settings and putting all sorts of stuff into my head and to Hazaro + n0n44m for trying to explain the offset thing, still confused as ever but gave me a tiny bit of enlightenment
EDIT: Holy hell, it's almost hitting 25* which means that's a 15* idle reduction compared to my old speedstepped 4.5GHz Auto volt overclock.
Hawk269
Member
What is the difference in P67 and Z68? I have a Sandy Bridge 2600k currently in a P67 Asus Motherboard (I prefer Asus as well). For that matter, what is Z77, havent even heard of that one.
z68 main feature is to allow the use of the GPU built into the 1155 CPUs while still having the same P67 overclocking functionality (unlike the H67) ... but if I remember correctly the Maximus Extreme for example doesn't even have a GPU output onboard. Looks pretty much the same otherwise
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1155Z77 is the new one for the Ivy Bridge ... still backwards compatible with Sandy Bridge. Basically a Z68 with support for USB 3 on the Intel chipset (all current boards use USB 3 chips from other manufacturers).
The newer Z68 and all Z77 boards will have PCI-e 3.0 as well, but it will require a new Ivy Bridge cpu to actually use that
2.0 should be enough for just about anything though (one can wonder if tri-sli fits the "just about anything" category especially once you go say, triple screen resolutions )Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Riddle me this PC Gaf. I have three times now had my screen go all pink fucked up looking like a graphics card is fucking up. Two of the times it was a hard freeze, one of the times it recovered and came back to normal with an nvidia message telling me the display driver fucked itself, but is back now.
The weirdest thing, I can use the computer for hours, even playing games and it doesn't happen. All three times it has happened was a couple seconds into a youtube video. Why don't my graphics cards like youtube?
The weirdest thing, I can use the computer for hours, even playing games and it doesn't happen. All three times it has happened was a couple seconds into a youtube video. Why don't my graphics cards like youtube?
in P67 or Z68 flavor (or maybe the new Z77)
Asus Maximus IV Extreme(-Z)
Gigabyte UD-7's
EVGA FTW's
all seem like good candidates to me... I stick to Asus personally.
yes with manual it is always fixed. For offset, try to get an offset that also nets you 1.26 under load (and pray that it is still high enough on idle then). So basically set offset to zero, check load voltage, then adjust until you're at 1.26ish at load. Then use it for some days to confirm it is truly stable.
offset is mainly trial and error, but once you've found a setting that works it makes for a wonderfully efficient and powerful CPU
but personally I think 1.26 is a pretty low voltage anyway, it doesn't really hurt to run that 24/7 (although offset would make it slightly more efficient). In my 1.4v scenario, offset allows me to go down to 1.2x on idle as I wouldn't like to blast 1.4v 24/7 for no reason
---
also the BenQ XL2420T is awesome ... has some of the typical TN quirks of course but gaming feels sooooo good on it. Not only does the motion feel very smooth, it is also much sharper. On my 32" Samsung playing BF3 I often felt that I didn't notice a lot of things because a lot of details became a bit hazy/smudged/whatever due to the FXAA and the high fidelity of the environments. And I'm sitting pretty close to that 32" so you would think I'd see everything. Now with the BenQ everything looks much clearer and sharper, and I feel I spot a lot more.
3D Vision 2 is very awesome as well with the correct titles, but I've never experienced any other type of 3D so I've got nothing to compare it with. I want to replay Witcher 2 with it once I get some new cards
I wouldn't mind running it at 1.26v 24/7...but my idle temps are in the mid 30s. Bugs me.
While you're mentioning BF3, that's what brought this about. I have been getting horrible performance from my GPUs...I was getting fps in the 70's and 80s with dual 580. When GPU utilization was at 98-99 I was around 140. Got sick of that so I disabled SLI and updated BIOS. Left everything default and fired up BF3. 99% utilization the entire time. Checked Task Manager and CPU was being used at near 100%.
Going off of that I assumed that I was being bottle necked by my CPU (for whatever reason) at 4.3ghz. When I'm getting close to single card performance because the GPUs keep jumping all over the place..that's unacceptable to me.
But boy..on that single card and around 50-60fps...dat stutter holy crap. I am so used to 120hz and 90+ fps that I literally had to stop and check the numbers. It said 55-60, yet it felt so damn sluggish. I finally see what Kenyon has been talking about.
So I'm on this mission now to get my CPU to 4.5ghz+ to where I don't have a bottleneck with my two cards.
So thank you Smokey for making me stay up till 4 in the morning with you devilish settings and putting all sorts of stuff into my head and to Hazaro + n0n44m for trying to explain the offset thing, still confused as ever but gave me a tiny bit of enlightenment
EDIT: Holy hell, it's almost hitting 25* which means that's a 15* idle reduction compared to my old speedstepped 4.5GHz Auto volt overclock.
Haha.
Good stuff. I'm going to mess around with that offset stuff a bit later. Needs ta wrap my head around it.
Hawk269
Member
I know it is almost against everything that is holy Smokey, but I have my 2600k stable at 4.6 using the auto-tune via the desktop. I just hit extreme, it auto clocked 30%, then I did it again and it went to 33%, then up again and I finally stopped. I am stable at 4.6, ran Prime for a while and no issues.
I know some dont like usiing auto-tune functions, but for me it worked out fine and have had no issues. I know the best way to do it is to go via the bios, but if you want to see if there is a bottleneck or not, you can do this real quick to do some testing
I tried that yesterday. It got up to 4.8ghz. Ran BF3 and it crashed. I did get to play for a second, and my GPUs were at 98-99. Then I went back and re did it to 4.6ghz. Crashed again (within a couple of minutes). It was also jumping my voltage up to 1.4v and 80c+. Was going crazy so I told myself today I would start messing around with it on my own after updating my BIOS (which put speed back at default anyway).
A little more explanation of Offset:
Overclock.net said:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips/0_50
Need to find the VID number..don't have that option they are talking about in Realtemp tho
Edit: Found in CoreTemp
That's under load while running a Prime Blend test...soo the VID is 1.3761v.....yet I have my voltage at 1.26v. Shouldn't that be a problem lol? My damn head hurts
Hawk269
Member
I tried that yesterday. It got up to 4.8ghz. Ran BF3 and it crashed. I did get to play for a second, and my GPUs were at 98-99. Then I went back and re did it to 4.6ghz. Crashed again (within a couple of minutes). It was also jumping my voltage up to 1.4v and 80c+. Was going crazy so I told myself today I would start messing around with it on my own after updating my BIOS (which put speed back at default anyway).
A little more explanation of Offset:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips/0_50
Need to find the VID number..don't have that option they are talking about in Realtemp tho
Edit: Found in CoreTemp
Seems awfully low based off of the description in the quote above....MY HEAD AHHH
lol...well being that we have almost the same exact set up let me know when you figure it all out Smokey...then just list all your settings and I will see how it works for me. Like I said, I know the best way and most efficient way is to do it via the bios, so my plan is to eventually do it that way.
Unless I decide to go another route and get that 3960x that I have been going back and forth with.
if it just happens in youtube, disable hardware acceleration in flash (more of a workaround than a solution ...)
---
@ Smokey
don't remember exactly but my CPU utilization in BF3 is pretty low aka far from 100%, even in B2K maps. I run without MSAA or HBAO to keep the fps 70+ (except for the extreme explosions from all directions scenario, but 40 fps don't matter when you can't see anyway because of all the smoke and suppression blur ;p ). Are you sure the CPU is actually running at 4.3 ghz when you get close to 100% utilization?
if you go for 4.5+ at least enable PLL Overvoltage, else you won't get far (computer won't sleep/hibernate correctly with it enabled though)
Also I believe that VID they talk about varies by how much the actual (overclocked) clockspeed is. At least when I tried auto, I got different voltages at 4.5 compared to say 3.5. Might be due to the board though. Once you increase the LLC/Phase Control settings that also increases the voltage A LOT on the Asus boards...
fakëedit: I just checked realtemp and my VID bounces between 1.21 and 1.29 idle. 1.34 on P95 load. CPU-Z gives 1.384 for the same load? I'd just check with some programs, stick to the one that shows the highest and keep it under 1.38v (which is the generally accepted safe limit for air IIRC)
real edit: wait that could be correct ... I believe my offset is +.045v . So my vid is 1.340, +.045 offset makes for ~1.385
Dependings on how aggressive the settings, LLC and phase control will push more voltages. Thus, if you dont need to, it's better to set them to lowest / normal and just run with offset. The less hardware needed to stress / overclock the better your results can be.
Just for example (not accurate):
With upper settings in LLC and phase plus offset 0.00, you could have .950V (idle) and 1.35V (load).
With normal / low LLC and phase plus offset+ 0.050, 1.00V (idle) and 1.35V (load).
Another big advantage of not using them, notice in the later you don't have to worry about voltage dropping too low under idle.
Just for example (not accurate):
With upper settings in LLC and phase plus offset 0.00, you could have .950V (idle) and 1.35V (load).
With normal / low LLC and phase plus offset+ 0.050, 1.00V (idle) and 1.35V (load).
Another big advantage of not using them, notice in the later you don't have to worry about voltage dropping too low under idle.
Hero_of_the_Day
Member
Yeah. It has only happened in youtube. So I'll give that a shot. It doesn't happen everytime I go to youtube, though. I can play games no problem. Wife was on here for like three hours doing homework no problem. Clicked a youtube video, fucked up pink and green graphics and frozen computer.
My idle VID was 1.0057 that Hawk quoted. Then I ran prime at 4.5ghz and it went to 1.3761v. And yeah when I checked cpu-z when I had SLI enabled it was at 4.3ghz. When I disabled SLI and 2600k went back to stock I ALT-tab to task manager and saw that the lines were close to the top of the box (at 3.6ghz or whatever default is), and my GPU was being used to 99%. To me that indicated a CPU bottleneck, which I expected at 3.6ghz
Hawk269
Member
So I am clear...so all of this OC you are doing is because you think your CPU is bottlenecking your GPU's? I figured that even at a 4.2-4.4 CPU OC that you would not even get close to being CPU bottlenecked. But you know more than I do on this stuff.
So I guess another question I have is that if I ever want to go 3xSLI 680's (just saying) that a 2600k at 4.5 would be a bottleneck?
Yes. Something is causing me to have GPU spikeage to the point where my FPS with SLI 580s is around the 78-80s range. When they are at 98-99 I'm getting 100+ which is where it should be. Reading other forums dudes with similar setups are pulling that easy, yet I'm having issues.
And to be clear I know the game doesn't user 100% CPU, but the 2600k should be doing enough to where my GPU's don't have to wait on it. That's what happened when I went back to default...the single GPU was being used to 99%. Was also a good chance to get into it since I updated my BIOS anyway. I realize I look like an idiot...just trying to wrap my head around all of this !
Lion Heart
Banned
Can any Canadian recommend me a budget PC? Maybe ~500 for something that will run Diablo 3 on a respectable level. I already have an aging 4850 I can use or a new card if it fits the bill is cool.
Haz's doesn't translate well in Canada.
Haz's doesn't translate well in Canada.
I know with the Witcher 2, physics?, going from 4.5 to 4.8 improves ~5fps on my CF6970 setup. 5.0 and above would even be better. So, yes, depending on the game, it could even be more of a bottleneck with SLI 3X680.
I really hate the term "bottleneck". Getting a better CPU raises your minimum framerate in games. As it stands, the 2600K @ 4.5 is not going to result in a minimum framerate lower than 60fps in just about any game, so in that sense, you won't be seriously bottlenecked by it. Now, if you have 120fps monitors, things might be different.
If you're getting 3x SLI 680, it's probably because you're running more than 1 display (or running a 1600p display at the very least), and that's going to shift the balance in favor of GPUs again. If you're running 3 monitors with 3x 680, it's going to be almost as if you were running a single monitor with a single GTX 680 (though the former will be a bit slower, due to scaling issues).
Nope 2600K still wouldn't be 'bottlenecked' at 120Hz or triple display. I run 120Hz daily and have done 3x1080p on my i7930 and have never once been constrained by the CPU (except SC2, which in my option might as well not use the GPU and get proper mutlithreaded support instead)
My current system:
Gateway DX 4200 09.
Processor
Type AMD Phenom X4 9100e / 1.8 GHz
Multi-Core processor technology Quad-Core
64-bit processor Yes
Installed Qty 1
Max processors supported 1
WIndows 7 64bit
Cache Memory
Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB
Mainboard
Chipset type AMD 780G
Data bus speed 3600 MHz
RAM
Installed Size 4 GB / 8 GB (max)
Technology DDR2 SDRAM
Memory speed 800 MHz
Memory specification compliance PC2-6400
Graphics:
Integrated ATI Radeon HD 3200 Hybrid Graphics with up to 256MB of Shared Video Memory
Expansion / Connectivity
Expansion Slots Total (Free) 1 ( 0 ) x Processor - Socket AM2 , 4 ( 2 ) x Memory - DIMM 240-pin , 1 ( 0 ) x PCI Express x16 , ( 0 ) x PCI Express x1 , 1 ( 0 ) x PCI Interfaces
Power
Power device type Power supply
Power provided 300 Watt
I just picked up the Witcher Enhanced Edition and playing it on an intergrated graphics card sucks hard even on lowest setting, very choppy.
So what kind of a card can I get to play the Witcher 1 and Witcher 2? I believe I don't have PCi express 2.0 :[ what can I do with little amount of MONIES spent on a graphics card??????
Please help
my budget is $150 with a versitile graphics card and a power supply unit
Gateway DX 4200 09.
Processor
Type AMD Phenom X4 9100e / 1.8 GHz
Multi-Core processor technology Quad-Core
64-bit processor Yes
Installed Qty 1
Max processors supported 1
WIndows 7 64bit
Cache Memory
Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB
Mainboard
Chipset type AMD 780G
Data bus speed 3600 MHz
RAM
Installed Size 4 GB / 8 GB (max)
Technology DDR2 SDRAM
Memory speed 800 MHz
Memory specification compliance PC2-6400
Graphics:
Integrated ATI Radeon HD 3200 Hybrid Graphics with up to 256MB of Shared Video Memory
Expansion / Connectivity
Expansion Slots Total (Free) 1 ( 0 ) x Processor - Socket AM2 , 4 ( 2 ) x Memory - DIMM 240-pin , 1 ( 0 ) x PCI Express x16 , ( 0 ) x PCI Express x1 , 1 ( 0 ) x PCI Interfaces
Power
Power device type Power supply
Power provided 300 Watt
I just picked up the Witcher Enhanced Edition and playing it on an intergrated graphics card sucks hard even on lowest setting, very choppy.
So what kind of a card can I get to play the Witcher 1 and Witcher 2? I believe I don't have PCi express 2.0 :[ what can I do with little amount of MONIES spent on a graphics card??????
Please help
my budget is $150 with a versitile graphics card and a power supply unit
Yeah, go with the HAF 912. I have it and it keeps my stuff supercool and quiet and looks nice to boot.
http://amzn.com/B003ZM7YTA
Cost wise or part selection wise?
Just about everything should be available from NCIX and you can use price matching to lower costs.
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
Price of 7850 and and 560Ti 448 is identical at Novatech - £200:
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/atiradeongraphicscards/amdhd7800series/11200-01-20g.html
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/nvidiageforcegraphicscards/nvidiagtx560ti448fermiseries/engtx560ti448dc22dis1280md5.html
Is the 560Ti a clear better choice ahead of the 7850? Also, why is the 560Ti so... fat?
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/atiradeongraphicscards/amdhd7800series/11200-01-20g.html
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/nvidiageforcegraphicscards/nvidiagtx560ti448fermiseries/engtx560ti448dc22dis1280md5.html
Is the 560Ti a clear better choice ahead of the 7850? Also, why is the 560Ti so... fat?
GoingGreen
Banned
The "k" means it's over clock able.
If you go by Tom's Hardware (not the most reliable, I know), the 7850 beats the 560Ti in almost every single 1080P benchmark they do. So it doesn't seem like a clear choice winner to me (unless you say you vastly prefer Nvidia and just want it to be close).
It's fatter because the 560Ti uses quite a bit more power. The more electricity something uses, the more cooling it needs.
I bought a few new fans and now I hate my computer..
I think the Coolermaster 212+ is the main culprit. I am running two of its stock fans and it is the loudest thing in the case (fractal r3).
Are there any fans that are considered far and away the best for low noise + decent CFM?
Fry's has the Silenx Effizio 120mm which claims 44cfm @ 12dBA which seems like it could be decent
I think the Coolermaster 212+ is the main culprit. I am running two of its stock fans and it is the loudest thing in the case (fractal r3).
Are there any fans that are considered far and away the best for low noise + decent CFM?
Fry's has the Silenx Effizio 120mm which claims 44cfm @ 12dBA which seems like it could be decent
Noctua NF-F12 for heatsinks and NF-S12B for your case fans
the 212+ has a PWM fan, so it should be pretty easy to turn it down using your motherboard's bios or some Windows application by your motherboards manufacturer
low noise + decent CFM is hard; the more CFM the more noise
at up to 1200 RPM I think Noiseblockers are the best, above that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons
the 212+ has a PWM fan, so it should be pretty easy to turn it down using your motherboard's bios or some Windows application by your motherboards manufacturer
low noise + decent CFM is hard; the more CFM the more noise
at up to 1200 RPM I think Noiseblockers are the best, above that the Scythe Gentle Typhoons
I can turn down the Coolermaster fans and they sound fine, but they seem to scale very poorly. They claim the lowest setting is 600rpm/13dBA/21CFM, other fans can run at twice that RPM and CFM with the same noise level.
Thanks for the input from both of you, I'll look into each of those.
Silence was one of my main draws of my gaming rig. I bought all Scythe Fans and a touch screen fan controller for the front of my computer. I have my fans running at 400rpm while browsing the internet and ramp them up to 900rpm when gaming. I also suspended my hard drives so my computer is dead silent, sorta creepy.
never ever trust fan specifications
especially dBA seem completely randomhttp://martinsliquidlab.org/2010/12/16/120mm-fan-testing-round-8/
these are some really nice, scientific fan tests. They're aimed at use for a watercooling radiator (for which pressure is more important than for aircooling), but the CFM and dBA values are still valuable
Lion Heart
Banned
Both really. I don't see the budget cpu on the website, plus the general cost of parts is a lot greater than your estimate.
What do you guys think of this deal.
An i5 2500k system without a gpu (nice case, power supply, 8gigs of ram, 500gb hd) for $650 Canadian USED!. Too steep? Is this guy ripping me off.. Oh and a gigabyte Z68 board.
I'll be using my radeon for the time being.
You can get a 2500k, nice case, psu, 8gig of ram, 500gig hard drive and a gigabyte z68 board for less than that new.
Newegg and Memory Express are constantly having bundle deal of 2500ks and gigabyte boards.
I just randomly priced that all together and got 560 plus taxes.
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX31557 CPU
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX27979 Tower with PSU
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX35469 Hard Drive
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/BDL_Z68XUD3H_PAT8GB Board and RAM
Granted this isn't matching what you have, but without part numbers it's really hard to compare. Also you don't know what hard drive, and how old... it might be a Seagate 7200.11 for all you know...
Newegg and Memory Express are constantly having bundle deal of 2500ks and gigabyte boards.
I just randomly priced that all together and got 560 plus taxes.
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX31557 CPU
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX27979 Tower with PSU
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX35469 Hard Drive
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/BDL_Z68XUD3H_PAT8GB Board and RAM
Granted this isn't matching what you have, but without part numbers it's really hard to compare. Also you don't know what hard drive, and how old... it might be a Seagate 7200.11 for all you know...
Lion Heart
Banned
Are those not US prices though? I have a case currently, its not bad and can save me some cash if I keep it with my 550watt PSU, but I'm not sure if it can handle a larger gpu in the future, and I'm also concerned with its air flow.. Buddys case looks a lot better.
But yeah, I don't know if its worth it.
Edit: Mines actually 650watt psu, cool.
But yeah, I don't know if its worth it.
Edit: Mines actually 650watt psu, cool.
Hey guys, kind of confused how i should tackle the situation i am in so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Basically, i just moved houses and the "entertainment" room where my PC, Receiver and PS3 reside have no access to internet via LAN cable. Its alright for the PS3 as that has Wifi, but the receiver and most importantly the PC need a LAN cable for internet access. Before anyone suggest to just run a wire from the internet access point to the room, the distance is 50 ft+ and is just too messy to do >.<...
Here is my idea. I am using a netgear wireless router. Signal from it to the macbook in the entertainment room is 5 bars. I have already bought a wireless bridge, but that will only allow me to connect internet to one device as it only has one port. Basically, how do i go and split this up from:
Wireless Router --> Wireless Bridge --> Cable to one device
to
Wireless Router --> Wireless Bridge --> Device to split --> Cable to multiple devices
I could just connect the wireless bridge to another wireless router which would allow me to run cables to multiple devices but i am afraid of interference between the two wireless points. I tried looking for routers but they all seem wireless, and the ones that aren't dont seem to have a place for an "ADSL LAN/Internet" plug that i assume would not provide internet to other devices? Sorry if this hard to understand, i am having a hard time with it my self -_-
Basically, i just moved houses and the "entertainment" room where my PC, Receiver and PS3 reside have no access to internet via LAN cable. Its alright for the PS3 as that has Wifi, but the receiver and most importantly the PC need a LAN cable for internet access. Before anyone suggest to just run a wire from the internet access point to the room, the distance is 50 ft+ and is just too messy to do >.<...
Here is my idea. I am using a netgear wireless router. Signal from it to the macbook in the entertainment room is 5 bars. I have already bought a wireless bridge, but that will only allow me to connect internet to one device as it only has one port. Basically, how do i go and split this up from:
Wireless Router --> Wireless Bridge --> Cable to one device
to
Wireless Router --> Wireless Bridge --> Device to split --> Cable to multiple devices
I could just connect the wireless bridge to another wireless router which would allow me to run cables to multiple devices but i am afraid of interference between the two wireless points. I tried looking for routers but they all seem wireless, and the ones that aren't dont seem to have a place for an "ADSL LAN/Internet" plug that i assume would not provide internet to other devices? Sorry if this hard to understand, i am having a hard time with it my self -_-
Memory express is a Canadian company, as is NCIX. You can check newegg as well, they're american but they have a .ca storefront for us canucks. 550W is a lot of power, and will suffice for nearly everyone running a single GPU system.
Like I said, this was done quickly without knowing the specific parts you're getting from the guy. If you can get a list of model numbers, we can let you know if it is a good deal or not
And I'm in Canada. Those're all Canadian prices.
I don't know why you think prices are so bad here, they're not.
$355 2500K + Z68 Gigabyte Mobo http://ncix.com/products/?sku=61150&vpn=2500K&GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3&manufacture=Bundle Deals
$60 Shinobi case http://ncix.com/products/?sku=60584&vpn=BFC-SNB-150-KKN1-RP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1360
$48 - 8GB Kingston Ram http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57869&vpn=KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX&manufacture=Kingston&promoid=1263
$90 - 500GB HDD http://ncix.com/products/?sku=63468&vpn=ST500DM002&manufacture=Seagate
$60 - 550W PSU http://ncix.com/products/?sku=62391&vpn=OCZ-ZS550W&manufacture=OCZ Technology&promoid=1263
Total $613 and the HDD is overpriced cause of last years floods.
Lion Heart
Banned
Thanks for the help guys, those are pretty good prices. I think my case should suffice, that saves me a good chunk of change.
Heres the ad I'm referring to. Hes offering 350 for used parts, and I can get it for 365 brand new without that cpu cooler though. Maybe if I can haggle him a bit it would be worth it? Or is it better to go new. I'm a bit shy with the cpu installation though. Hes overcharging me on the RAM though, I'll either buy that online or get him to lower the price.
Heres the ad I'm referring to. Hes offering 350 for used parts, and I can get it for 365 brand new without that cpu cooler though. Maybe if I can haggle him a bit it would be worth it? Or is it better to go new. I'm a bit shy with the cpu installation though. Hes overcharging me on the RAM though, I'll either buy that online or get him to lower the price.
I'd go new for warrenty
I see both the G850 and i3 2100 on NCIX at least.
Prices are higher for you, because, Canada, I don't know.
Value should still fall approximately in line, although sometimes bundles like gigabyte boards and such can bring down the price.
Just be aware that you won't be able to stream 1080p content over a wireless bridge reliably.
Run a wire.
canadian crowe
Member
Is it possible to get a case with a decent PSU for under $80?
I'll be running an i3 or i5, with an h61 mobo and an HD 6870.
I'll be running an i3 or i5, with an h61 mobo and an HD 6870.
Any of the $30-40 cases listed plus CX430/VP450/Neo Eco 400/OCZ
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