Auto detect is a pile of wank that never works in any game pretty much. I can't recall a last time any auto-detect setting actually cranked up any settings.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Auto detect is a pile of wank that never works in any game pretty much. I can't recall a last time any auto-detect setting actually cranked up any settings.
Oh. I probably own around 200 games. So if you have a list of what you want me to run, I can probably benchmark most of them.
maks
Member
Thanks! The thermaltake i have is modular
Yeah i think ill be happier with the revised build. For the case I may even go with the next step up. Silverstone TJ08B
maks
Member
I picked it up at Frys via pricematch to the Microcenter B&M deal. Yes the MATX is intentional. I'm looking for a smaller computer case that looks nice. The Silverstone PS07 and TJO8 seemed to be highly recommended.
Awesome. Thanks for the advice on the cooler. I was worried about space and heat inside the smaller case.
mattiewheels
And then the LORD David Bowie saith to his Son, Jonny Depp: 'Go, and spread my image amongst the cosmos. For every living thing is in anguish and only the LIGHT shall give them reprieve.'
Just got a new seagate 2gb...it's not a good sign for the thing to already start making these clicking noises every now and then, is it?
mATX cases are my major weakness in my greater weakness of case buying. Here's a short list of non-insane priced ones you should look at:Thanks! The thermaltake i have is modular
Silverstone TJ08B
Fractal Arc Mini
TJ08
Lian Li PC-A04
In Win Dragon Slayer (ridiculous name, awesome case)
Antec P180 Mini
Fractal Define Mini
Fractal Core 1000
If you are feeling saucy:
FT03
V600
V354
Why did you have to post this list today
Canceling my 550d until I can read up on all the cases you just posted.I had one that died not too long after it started clicking.
...then again, the clicking started after my computer was knocked on its side at a LAN party. It was sort of amazing that the drive lasted as long as it did.
Sorry 'bout that. Whatever you do, don't ask Feist about Japanese mATX cases. You'll just cry knowing that you can't have one (without a second mortgage).Why did you have to post this list today
My Arc Mini that I just sold:
In terms of total features and options, Arc Mini is my favorite of the bunch. With an entirely air cooled case (or 120mm closed loop water like Corsair H stuff), V600 is my fav. In terms of absolutely brilliant design where the case is the highlight rather than the innards, FT03.
*edit*
Also, though the 550D has received some decent reviews, I did a build in a 300R recently. Though they are slightly different, most of the innards are exactly the same. It was one of the cheapest feeling cases I've played with in recent memory. I can't say for certain that the 550D suffers from the same problems, but based on some things I've seen, I think it does. Corsair really dropped the ball, IMO.
Lion Heart
Banned
What exactly causes a pc to freeze at the bios screen (when you first boot it up). Took me 15 minutes of random resetting/waiting for it to go past that scree and now everything is back to normal. I remember this happening on my older PC as well and nothing bad ever came from it but its concerning nonetheless.
Sorry 'bout that. Whatever you do, don't ask Feist about Japanese mATX cases. You'll just cry knowing that you can't have one (without a second mortgage).
My Arc Mini that I just sold:
In terms of total features and options, Arc Mini is my favorite of the bunch. With an entirely air cooled case (or 120mm closed loop water like Corsair H stuff), V600 is my fav. In terms of absolutely brilliant design where the case is the highlight rather than the innards, FT03.
*edit*
Also, though the 550D has received some decent reviews, I did a build in a 300R recently. Though they are slightly different, most of the innards are exactly the same. It was one of the cheapest feeling cases I've played with in recent memory. I can't say for certain that the 550D suffers from the same problems, but based on some things I've seen, I think it does. Corsair really dropped the ball, IMO.
I went with it (well before I canceled my order) because it was mostly quiet. My current rig is just too damn noisy. But if I could get an mATX only case that would fit my uses (just need space for 1 dvd/blu-ray drive, 1 or 2 HDDs and a full length GPU) AND is quiet, I might jump on that instead.
edit: The Lian Li PC-A04 would be perfect if it had dual USB 3.0 ports up front with the mobo header :|
edit #2: Same with the Arc Mini :| Unless there is a newer revision I'm not seeing that has 2x USB 3.0 headers up front with the mobo connector.
You know I don't know, that is probably why its like this. Ill have to check that out. Thanks for the help.
You do, check the pic I posted earlier in response.You know I don't know, that is probably why its like this. Ill have to check that out. Thanks for the help.
Lots of stuff, like a *LOT*.
Any reason you need 2 USB 3.0 in specific? I mean, there isn't much outside of data transfer and more power that USB 3.0 gives, and there are plugs in the back of the case.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
is there a way you can describe that?
It's one of those differences that isn't noticeable until you've seen it. But, in a sense, it looks like what you are watching is actual fluid motion rather than a series of pictures. "But it already does", would be the normal reply. And it really kind of seems that way, until you see it at 120fps/hz.
I mixed superglue and thermal paste together. Seemed to work.
plasticpassion
Member
Do you guys/gals have any advice for insulating my current PC for sound and if possible, heat? I bought a beast of a PC years ago through cyberpowerpc, but honestly a big barrier for playing games has been the noise it makes and the heat it produces. Anytime I play a game that is beyond casual, the fans are incredibly loud. I was considering buying some kind of foam to try and insulate the noise (a la this link, although that's just from a quick google search). I have absolutely no experience with such things so I don't know where to start.
Here is what my PC consists of:
Here are pictures of the casing so you can see what it looks like on the inside/outside:
What say you?
Here is what my PC consists of:
Code:
MN-168-104 ASUS VW266H 26" WIDE BLACK LCD 1 349.00 349.00
CU-197-202 INTEL i7-940 2.93GHZ 8M LGA 1366 RETA 1 1285.00 1285.00
HD-403-106 500 GB SATA II 3.0 GB 16MB 7200RPM 1 0.00 0.00
HD-403-109 1.5TB (1.5TBx1) SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 32MB 1 159.00 159.00
RM-317-110 CORSAIR 2GB 16000MHZ CM3X2G1600C9D6 3 9.67 29.01
FA-104-101 CASE FAN 2 3.00 6.00
FA-WATER-101 ASETEK 120MM WATERCOOLER 1 54.00 54.00
FA-104-116 CASE FAN 120 MMM 1 0.00 0.00
MISC Non-SLI/CrossFireX Mode Supports Mu 1 0.00 0.00
CD-142-101 SAMSUNG 22X LIGHTSCRIBE DVDRW 1 5.00 5.00
CABLE-PROWIRE PROFESSIONAL CABLE WIRING 1 19.00 19.00
CS-419-202 APEVIA X-SNIPER MID TOWER/ BLUE 1 -17.00 -17.00
NL-102-102 BLUE COLD CATHOD LIGHT 12" 1 10.00 10.00
MR-104-101 12-IN-ONE INTERNAL CARD READER 1 10.00 10.00
MB-340-106 GIGABYTE X58 GA-EX58-UD4P 3 WAY CROSS 1 14.00 14.00
SC-102-133 CREATIVE LABS AUDIGY SE BULK 1 30.00 30.00
VC-176-101 ATI RADOEN 4870 X2 2GB DDR5 1 310.00 310.00
SW-160-125 WINDOW VISTA HOME PREMIUM 64BIT SP1 1 104.00 104.00
PS-116-104 XION 800WATT SUPERNOVA QUAD SLI PS 1 44.00 44.00Here are pictures of the casing so you can see what it looks like on the inside/outside:
What say you?
Good tip. Seemed to work.
Now I'm having another issue... I can't seem to get SLI to work in PCI-E slot #1 and 3. I'm using ASUS P8Z68-V PRO MB. Worked fine with slot 1 and 2 but now I only get the physX page in the CP. :/
EDIT: Fuck. looks like this was all a big waste of time. Last slot is only x4 which makes it useless.
Rig is going to be sitting next to my entertainment console. I really only want to have power/video/internet going in the back, just being prepared for any and ever situation that would pop up by having more than 1 USB 3.0 port up front. It does seem that the TJ08-E has the USB 3.0 mobo header I'm looking for, but it does seem rather stubby length wise (height wise it looks perfect, and I like the flipped mobo, heat rises and all).
Complain to CoolerMaster and the store you bought it from. My HAF 912 came with a 120mm fan on the front and another in the back.
Power saving feature.
JoshuaJSlone
Member
I came to ask a question, and in doing some searching so as to waste less of your time may already have the answer. Looking for a PCI Express x1 sound card that can do Dolby Digital Live and/or DTS Connect, is the Xonar DX the cheapest option?
EDIT: It looks like Xonar DX doesn't do real 7.1, which I just go the receiver/speakers for, so that may not be a good enough option. Looks like it can do 5.1 with Dolby Digital Live, but since it can do Pro Logic IIx and output the results of that they call it a 7.1 card.
EDIT EDIT: Does anything actually do more than 5.1, not counting the sort of processing effects a receiver does anyway?
EDIT: It looks like Xonar DX doesn't do real 7.1, which I just go the receiver/speakers for, so that may not be a good enough option. Looks like it can do 5.1 with Dolby Digital Live, but since it can do Pro Logic IIx and output the results of that they call it a 7.1 card.
EDIT EDIT: Does anything actually do more than 5.1, not counting the sort of processing effects a receiver does anyway?
It's your video card. It's TDP is 286 watts. The simplistic reality is watts = heat. And there's no escaping that reality.
There's ways of reducing noise if you really want, but I'm not sure it's at all possible with such a hot card. #1) If you start trapping that much heat inside your case by sealing all noise leaks, you're gonna kill your chips. #2) The heat is still gonna leak out anyways. There is no magic to contain it.
Your CPU has a TDP of 130 watts. That's not the greatest, but it's a fraction of the problem of your GPU. If you're trying to cut down on heat exhaust (which is pretty pointless as long as you have that GPU), don't overclock it. And if you're not overclocking it, you can probably run it at stock speeds and under-volt it considerably. Intel chips have been famous for this for years. If you're not over-clocking, you can usually undervolt singnificantly without issue. But, again, the real issue is the GPU. That's the problem. It's actually not a problem if you live in a cold climate and want your computer doubling as a space heater, but clearly that's not your desire.
TouchMyBox
Member
Just out of curiosity, which monitor do you have? I own a Acer GD235HZ and while 120Hz really is incredible, the IQ is so terrible that I now use my Dell u2711 the vast majority of the time (I still prefer to use the acer for TF2 since it gives me a huge competitive advantage).
I'm still dreaming of 120Hz IPS panels over here.
Kit Airwave
Neo Member
Wrong thread. my bad.
plasticpassion
Member
I haven't overclocked it. I'm an amateur when it comes to things like that, or even building PCs which may be why the design isn't optimal. I bought that GPU because I wanted it to last a while but I've found (I think) that most games don't take advantage of the cards dual card nature.
Okay. I'm just trying to figure out why its idle temp just went up by a few degrees today.
Edit: Just had a thought - my PSU has a fan on it, but I don't think I've ever actually heard it. Is that normal?
Edit 2: I finally decided to run my fan at full blast for a few minutes, and my GPU temp would not go below 42C while idle. Normally I leave the fan sitting at 25% blast at which the GPU sits at between 46C and 50C, so it's barely a 10C difference.
Edit 3: Shit. I've owned this computer for almost five years and I am JUST now realizing where the main fan is (the manual calls it the processor fan). It's actually pretty well hidden, you can't really see it just by opening up the computer since it's wedged between the outer wall and the heat sink. If I've never seen it then that means I've never dusted it off (despite having dusted off the rest of the computer more than once). I'm out of compressed air though so I'll have to buy some.
Skel1ingt0n
I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
A tad off-topic, but I don't think my question warrants its own thread; so any help here is appreciated.
I have AT&T DSL with a provided 2Wire wireless modem/router. Service is universally garbage, but I'm having a specific problem with wireless internet on two computers; while two other computers give no problems at all.
I have my gaming desktop connected via ethernet, and my iMac, my mom's iMac, and all my gaming systems connected via WiFi.
Normally, I go days and days without a disconnect. My mom uses her iMac several hours a day (WiFi), and I'm on my gaming PC several hours a day (ethernet), and we experience very few problems (if any). But when I use my iMac via WiFi, our internet disconnects about once an hour; and ... get this ... disconnects 100% of the time about 10 seconds after I close my browser! I don't get it, lol. I don't see how that should trigger a disconnect; but it does, every time. I tried completely wipping my iMac and did a whole new reinstall, and reset my modem, and yet the same crap keeps happening.
But here's the other thing. My sister is now back from college, and she brought her laptop. She connects via Wifi... and wouldn't you know it - she got back tonight, and while I'm sitting here on my gaming PC, I've noticed our internet go out about five times tonight!
WTF?
Again, most every other WiFi device works without problem. But out of about eight WiFi devices, two specifically are somehow triggering a whole lot of 30-45 second disconnects. I don't know where to go to look to fix the problem, and it's too complicated to explain for a Google search. Hoping I can get some tips here. Thanks!
I have AT&T DSL with a provided 2Wire wireless modem/router. Service is universally garbage, but I'm having a specific problem with wireless internet on two computers; while two other computers give no problems at all.
I have my gaming desktop connected via ethernet, and my iMac, my mom's iMac, and all my gaming systems connected via WiFi.
Normally, I go days and days without a disconnect. My mom uses her iMac several hours a day (WiFi), and I'm on my gaming PC several hours a day (ethernet), and we experience very few problems (if any). But when I use my iMac via WiFi, our internet disconnects about once an hour; and ... get this ... disconnects 100% of the time about 10 seconds after I close my browser! I don't get it, lol. I don't see how that should trigger a disconnect; but it does, every time. I tried completely wipping my iMac and did a whole new reinstall, and reset my modem, and yet the same crap keeps happening.
But here's the other thing. My sister is now back from college, and she brought her laptop. She connects via Wifi... and wouldn't you know it - she got back tonight, and while I'm sitting here on my gaming PC, I've noticed our internet go out about five times tonight!
WTF?
Again, most every other WiFi device works without problem. But out of about eight WiFi devices, two specifically are somehow triggering a whole lot of 30-45 second disconnects. I don't know where to go to look to fix the problem, and it's too complicated to explain for a Google search. Hoping I can get some tips here. Thanks!
Lion Heart
Banned
Whats this ticking coming from my PC, it sounds like a small mouse is scurrying along in there. It happens every couple minutes and lasts 30 seconds or so. No wires are contacting fans, could it be a CPU issue?
Could be your hard drive dying... does it sound like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwYSdD4fyRU
If so, back up immediately.
If so, back up immediately.
4x is just a 2-4% performance loss. Don't sweat it.Good tip. Seemed to work.
Now I'm having another issue... I can't seem to get SLI to work in PCI-E slot #1 and 3. I'm using ASUS P8Z68-V PRO MB. Worked fine with slot 1 and 2 but now I only get the physX page in the CP. :/
EDIT: Fuck. looks like this was all a big waste of time. Last slot is only x4 which makes it useless.
6870 or 460 1GB + VP450
Clean out everything with compressed air. Perhaps replace a few fans.
Hi guys, i need some sound advice. I have got a P8P67 Rev3b motherboard, it has 2 x sata controllers both marvel and intel. At the moment i have 4x 750 gb drives in raid 10 on the 4 intel sata 2 ports. That leaves me 2 x intel sata 3 ports and 2x marvel ports. Now the question is, i am finally thinking of getting SSD. I have a choice of 2 x 60 gb(~ 120 $ each) OCZ agility 3, corsair Force3/gt or 1 x 120 gb corsair force 3, samsung 830, Intel 520 (~ 180-240 $), so the question is, is it worth getting the 2x 60 gb drives for striped raid, or just stick with a single 120 gb one, will the sata 3 be able to get any extra performance from 2 drives compared to the single drive ? I will be having it for OS and core games. Or is the 2 x 60 gb really a bad idea ? Thanks !
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
I need some help with my case. Upon receiving my HAF 912 yesterday I was confounded by the fact no fans were included when it clearly said there were 2 on Overclockers.co.uk and on the box. Obviously I phoned overclockers and they informed me that was how the cases were shipped to them and they've had several calls over this the past week, they said my best bet was to contact Cooler Master themselves.
This obviously lead me to the Cooler Master website where I've learnt there's no UK support number on a form on the website. I've filled this in but I'm really weary of doing this kind of thing online, and I'd be really thankful if somebody could provide me with a contact number (extra points if I can call on Saturday.)
This obviously lead me to the Cooler Master website where I've learnt there's no UK support number on a form on the website. I've filled this in but I'm really weary of doing this kind of thing online, and I'd be really thankful if somebody could provide me with a contact number (extra points if I can call on Saturday.)
Try posting in the support section of the CM forum. If their forum support team is worth anything they will put in a ticket for you and you'll just call in and get pushed through, or they will handle it for directly after you send in a ticket.
Spirit of Jazz
Banned
Thanks a lot for the link. After talking to Overclockers again they said they'd try and ship me 2 120mm fans if I couldn't get through to CM which is pretty awesome of them. I'll give the forums a shot now.
Samsung S23A750D, but Ive also used the Benq XL2420T, which is the king in my opinion. I wont lie, fefresh rate and response time are more important to me than anything, so I might not be the best judge for IQ or colors. But, the samsung looks almost as good to me compared to the delicious screen on my transformer prime.
Lion Heart
Banned
Hmm. Its a little similar but ticks in a different pattern, putting my ear to the board it sounds like the PSU/CPU. I'll do an HDD check just in case but I think I'm good there. Interesting vid though, thanks.
Fake edit: I sprayed compressed air into the psu and moved some wires around randomely and the ticking seems to have went away for now...please be gone.
ASUS Maximus V Formula Z77
Been doing a lot of reading on Asus' ROG boards as of late and I think I'm going to move from my Asus z68 deluxe over to this guy when it hits. Really digging the black and red look and some of the features they have on here.
Been doing a lot of reading on Asus' ROG boards as of late and I think I'm going to move from my Asus z68 deluxe over to this guy when it hits. Really digging the black and red look and some of the features they have on here.
Me too I just don't like the slot spacing. It should be 2 slot spacing if they are marketing this a watercooling board with that heatsink.
So I powered on my PC yesterday morning, and during post, there was a *CRACK* and then smoke started drifting up from my GPUs. Panicked, I turned everything off, checked for leaks... there were none. I disassemble my water loop (Thank God for Quick Disconnects), and take out the first GTX 680, and remove the water block.
http://imgur.com/e6lEX
Silicon chip labled Q30 fried itself. The thermal pad that was on it is also burnt. What the Christ??
I have a support ticket open with EVGA to start an RMA, but this has never happened to me before. Anyone ever had a video card pretty much just explode on itself for no reason?
http://imgur.com/e6lEX
Silicon chip labled Q30 fried itself. The thermal pad that was on it is also burnt. What the Christ??
I have a support ticket open with EVGA to start an RMA, but this has never happened to me before. Anyone ever had a video card pretty much just explode on itself for no reason?
Wolf Akela
Member
Oh that sucks man, never had a GPU blow up on me but anything with power running through it has a chance of going 'poof', guess you hit the jackpot.
MisterNugNug
Member
So this is the build I'm going to purchase next month. Any thoughts? I don't go overboard on the video card on the first build. I usually upgrade the videocard like two years in. I'm weird like that.
Corsair Carbide Series 400R Graphite grey and black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case
Model #:400R
$99.99
ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #:X79 Extreme6
$249.99
XFX Double D Black Edition FX-777A-ZDB4 Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX ...
Model #:FX-777A-ZDB4
$149.99
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core ...
Model #:CMPSU-650TX
$109.99
Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-E 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 2011 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73820
Model #:BX80619i73820
$309.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Model #:CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
$53.99
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5000AAKX
$84.99
Logitech ClearChat Comfort USB Supra-aural Headset
Model #:981-000014
$34.99
ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card
Model #:XONAR_DG
$29.99
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Model #:AS5-3.5G
$9.99
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel ...
Model #:RR-212E-20PK-R2
$34.99
Subtotal: $1,168.89
Corsair Carbide Series 400R Graphite grey and black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case
Model #:400R
$99.99
ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #:X79 Extreme6
$249.99
XFX Double D Black Edition FX-777A-ZDB4 Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX ...
Model #:FX-777A-ZDB4
$149.99
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core ...
Model #:CMPSU-650TX
$109.99
Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-E 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 2011 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73820
Model #:BX80619i73820
$309.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Model #:CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
$53.99
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5000AAKX
$84.99
Logitech ClearChat Comfort USB Supra-aural Headset
Model #:981-000014
$34.99
ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card
Model #:XONAR_DG
$29.99
Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Model #:AS5-3.5G
$9.99
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel ...
Model #:RR-212E-20PK-R2
$34.99
Subtotal: $1,168.89
Question for PC-gaf:
I'm currently on an asus G60VX (specs) and wanting to upgrade to a desktop for later games like Planetside 2 and Guild Wars 2. I'm wondering, would it be better to try and sell the laptop outright, using the money to put towards a new desktop, or harvest it for parts?
I'm thinking, if I harvest it, I can keep things like the hard drive (still a good amount of space left, plus I wouldn't need to re-install everything, etc), and use other parts like the GPU to run a 2 card system, use the RAM in it, that sort of thing. What do you guys think?
I'm currently on an asus G60VX (specs) and wanting to upgrade to a desktop for later games like Planetside 2 and Guild Wars 2. I'm wondering, would it be better to try and sell the laptop outright, using the money to put towards a new desktop, or harvest it for parts?
I'm thinking, if I harvest it, I can keep things like the hard drive (still a good amount of space left, plus I wouldn't need to re-install everything, etc), and use other parts like the GPU to run a 2 card system, use the RAM in it, that sort of thing. What do you guys think?
- Status