dope4goldrope
Member
Got the stuck one to retract, now I just have this one that won't clamp down with pliers. Took a picture.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Here's my build and the temporary set-up I have it in
I'm so glad I pulled this off without any major issues
Biggest mistake I made was not reading the directions and so using the HDD screws to secure the mobo. Got that sorted out though.
Next up I need to sell off my laptop to get a data drive or two and my monitor.
I'm so glad I pulled this off without any major issues
Biggest mistake I made was not reading the directions and so using the HDD screws to secure the mobo. Got that sorted out though.
Next up I need to sell off my laptop to get a data drive or two and my monitor.
DeVeAn
Member
Cool! I have the same case and opened it back up and did some cable management. Damn Corsair HX isn't fully modular. Cable management was a pain plus I have that Asus 570 which is HUGE.
Those cables on the HX are such a pain to work with. Take a hobby knife to the plastic bits between the cables, and if you get a small enough holes, you can just pull on the wires to make it larger. Helps a ton for when you need to bend them in a certain way.
You don't need to keep it flat, you can bend it over itself.
DeVeAn
Member
Question for ya! So you mentioned earlier about using an HDD for data and a SSD for OS and programs. Is there an easy way to move the User folders to the data drive?
Yeah, I'm having to bend it to get the third connector to work, but in doing that the second connector can't be used.
MisterNoisy
Member
I don't usually move the 'Users' folders (I'm the only user for my machines), but I do change all the references for Windows library folders (Documents, Music, Pictures, etc.) to a location on the storage drive.
Open 'Computer', then right-click the library folder you want to modify in the left column, then click 'Properties'.
Click 'Include a Folder', then navigate to the Folder on your storage drive you want to use and OK your way through it. Then click to highlight that folder and click 'Set save location'.
CaptainSchwann
Member
Two weeks overdue in posting this, but I just wanted to thank Hazaro for the awesome OP and recommendations and such. Built my first pc based off the "excellent" build and it turned out great!...despite me having a few panic attacks (I was so paranoid I was going to break something in half that i ended up having a few problems with not having my cpu and ram all the way in lol)
DeVeAn
Member
I don't usually mode the 'Users' folders (I'm the only user for my machines), but I do change all the references for Windows library folders (Documents, Music, Pictures, etc.) to a location on the storage drive.
Open 'Computer', then right-click the library folder you want to modify in the left column, then click 'Properties'.
Click 'Include a Folder', then navigate to the Folder on your storage drive you want to use and OK your way through it. Then click to highlight that folder and click 'Set save location'.
Thanks! I just have a ton of stuff in that folder so I want it off the SSD.
MisterNoisy
Member
Note that you will still have to actually transfer the files that are already stored in the current location to the new location, but aside from that, you should be good to go.
MWS Natural
Member
Just making sure, these parts should work together correct:
DeVeAn
Member
Well I don't have the SSD installed yet just trying to prep for a clean install on it. Any recommened videos for the process? I like the guy from NCIX on youtube. Maybe there is a better video?
I'm currently having a hard time trying to over clock my old processor, an AMD Athlon 64 X2, 1900 MHz (9.5 x 200) 3600+.
My motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-M68M-S2P and for memory I have two 1 Go DDR2-667 ECC DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
I've managed to boot with a 2.5Ghz overclocking, but I can't seem to find any settings that would allow me to go further.
I'm a bit lost about the relation between the CPU settings and RAM frequency/timings settings. Does one have to be made according to the other or something ?
My motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-M68M-S2P and for memory I have two 1 Go DDR2-667 ECC DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
I've managed to boot with a 2.5Ghz overclocking, but I can't seem to find any settings that would allow me to go further.
I'm a bit lost about the relation between the CPU settings and RAM frequency/timings settings. Does one have to be made according to the other or something ?
For installing it? Just plug in the sata power/data cables just like you would an HDD. For setting it up go through this.
Yay, everything installed finally last night. Going to do a bit more tiding up at some point in the future, probably when I get another fan for my exhaust. System is pretty quiet (loudest thing is my PSU) Only things left in the build is to put a window on my door. Very happy overall with how everything came together.
Maximus Gene V, 3770k, 16GB ram, 256GB SSD, 670. Should last me a loooooong time, even have space for SLI down the road if I feel the need too.
Maximus Gene V, 3770k, 16GB ram, 256GB SSD, 670. Should last me a loooooong time, even have space for SLI down the road if I feel the need too.
DeVeAn
Member
I seen that guide. A little intimidating I'll read it over anyway.
How long does an RMA usually take from EVGA? I think I'll just RMA my second GTX 460, I'm kind of getting annoyed of black screens, even when it's slightly overclocked. No point in letting my primary GTX 460 suffer, it goes through 3DMark11 850 core and 2075 memory clock without a problem. Can barely do 825 core and 1900ish memory without problems.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
Is there any way to reduce screen tearing while keeping the FPS above 30? Tearing everywhere.
Zombie James
Banned
Vsync + triple buffering.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
Does it cap FPS?
Only problem I have left to solve is my Xonar DG. atm it's just uselessly sitting in there since I can't find a way to install drivers for it an make it work. Hopefully Uni Xonar drivers are update to support the W8 RP soon
e: figured someone else would be under the same circumstances; checked the comment thread on the uni xonar post and someone solved it by disabling driver enforcement. Worked for me as well.
e: figured someone else would be under the same circumstances; checked the comment thread on the uni xonar post and someone solved it by disabling driver enforcement. Worked for me as well.
CrazyIvan1978
Member
Yes, capped at monitor refresh rate.
Zombie James
Banned
Vsync caps to your monitor's refresh rate, dropping to half if it can't sustain it. Triple buffering helps prevent that from happening.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
So if I have a 3D monitor, that would make it 120hz @ 120FPS, right?
Get it to 60, or get a 120hz monitor.
da_stabbah
Member
what case is that?
Silverstone PS07W
Review here, haven't watched it yet.
How are you liking the case? Pro's and con's? Love to keep my eye on the mATX cases as I do a lot of SFF gaming builds for friends. This is a pretty one that I'd love to be able to recommend.
Only you can really answer that. It's not a huge leap by any means, but it also seems silly to get a 1156 motherboard. If you like to overclock, the 2500K is still a better bet most of the time.
Great case, only a few minor issues. The screws going on and off strip the paint (not a big issue, just a minor gripe seeing flecks of white paint around when I was assembling it) and the space behind the motherboard tray isn't terrific, but even with the little space available I was able to fit all of my extra cables. The case also comes with a 3.5 to 5.25 adapter so I was able to totally remove the hard drive cage (my secondary drive lives just below the DVD drive now).
Nice and silent, and I like that it comes with dust filters since my house is pretty dusty. Need to see what the temperatures look like though once I start to overclock a bit. If they get too high I'll see if adding an additional fan for exhaust brings them down because right now I just have the two intakes.
Basically the only thing I'd like to see from it would be just a bit more space behind the motherboard, but after cramming stuff in there it becomes a non issue. Having the entire thing made out of aluminum wouldn't hurt either as I plan on bringing it around to my friends house often for gaming.
Nice and silent, and I like that it comes with dust filters since my house is pretty dusty. Need to see what the temperatures look like though once I start to overclock a bit. If they get too high I'll see if adding an additional fan for exhaust brings them down because right now I just have the two intakes.
Basically the only thing I'd like to see from it would be just a bit more space behind the motherboard, but after cramming stuff in there it becomes a non issue. Having the entire thing made out of aluminum wouldn't hurt either as I plan on bringing it around to my friends house often for gaming.
Just received received my $346 Korean Crossover Q27 IPS 27" 2560X1440 monitor from ebay, only took 3 days from South Korea. The picture is amazing and easily beats my old NEC EA231WMII IPS. Many Korean companies sell these rejected LG panels which are suppose to go to the top end $1000 Apple Cinema, Dell and etc. displays. The panels are rated A- compare to the non rejected A+. When, you buy one there's a chance you have <5 dead and/or stuck pixel(s), some light bleeding and so on. In my case, no dead / stuck pixels, but slight bottom corner bleeding and what looks to be a speck of dirt on the bottom edge of the screen.
Pictures can't do these monitors justice, especially from a iphone camera.
I highly recommend anyone looking for a new monitor to think about going this route. Now, I might have to upgrade to SLI 680 or a 690 to power this bad boy.
Pictures can't do these monitors justice, especially from a iphone camera.
I highly recommend anyone looking for a new monitor to think about going this route. Now, I might have to upgrade to SLI 680 or a 690 to power this bad boy.
Yup! I'd recommend getting the low profile RAM listed in the OP (ARES/Vengeance) or the 30nm 1.35V Samsung Sticks.Just making sure, these parts should work together correct:
Was about to ask if you bought it off eBay... but re-read.Just received received my $346 Korean Crossover Q27 IPS 27" 2560X1440 monitor from ebay, only took 3 days from South Korea. The picture is amazing and easily beats my old NEC EA231WMII IPS. Many Korean companies sell these rejected LG panels which are suppose to go to the top end $1000 Apple Cinema, Dell and etc. displays. The panels are rated A- compare to non rejected A+. When, you buy one there's a chance you have <5 dead and/or stuck pixel(s), some light bleeding and so on. In my case, no dead / stuck pixels, but slight bottom corner bleeding and what looks to be a speck of dirt on the bottom edge of the screen.
Pictures can't do these monitors justice, especially from a iphone camera.
I highly recommend anyone looking for a new monitor to think about going this route. Now, I might have to upgrade to SLI 680 or a 690 to power this bad boy.
What made you go with that model?
IIRC I was looking at a few things and came across this model and one other one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3VIEW-PCBAN...8285?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item256ed8496d
There's the microcenter auria model for those that want to deal with a domestic seller and better QA.
I went with Crossover 27Q for looks. It's encase in metal, front and back. It doesn't come with a built in scaler, would add some lag, so you can't connect none native res device, something like a game console. Also, supposedly, it has the best stand of all of them. You can only pivot, but no moving up / down. I have another stand coming from Buy.com for it.
Even though I didn't buy from him, I would suggest you go ebay seller Accessorieswhole. He gives you the correct voltage plug, guarantees 2 or less pixel issue and a 30 day return. Most people recommend him.
From the threads I have read, most(90%?) have close to perfect panels. I think the big issue is wrong power plug voltage.
Just a note that it does have a scaler and more inputs like HDMI, etc compared to the Korean 27s
So the scaler will/might introduce enough lag to bother some people.
RAM is the same shit and the performance boost from 1600 to 1866 is extremely minimal.
It's all costs the same, runs at the same speeds, and they all have lifetime warranties.
*If you are talking about the 30nm 1.35V Samsung sticks then that is a clear good buy if you overclock them to 2133Mhz or something and are comfortable running low voltage higher than normal and overclocked.
TheThunder
Member
I did some googling for LCD computer monitors which led me to the TN vs IPS comparison which reminded of the old LCD vs Plasma wars (feels like 2007 all over again)
So, from what I gathered the TN models got:
-Better response time
-Cheaper
-Bad viewing angles
As for the IPSs:
-Worse response time but still acceptable for gaming
-Better viewing angles
-Better colors
-Black levels not so great
-More expensive
From people with experience of both, what would you recommend, are the IPSs worth the extra price, or are the high TN models good enough or better if you are always gonna be centered and won't look at the screen from side angles ?
So, from what I gathered the TN models got:
-Better response time
-Cheaper
-Bad viewing angles
As for the IPSs:
-Worse response time but still acceptable for gaming
-Better viewing angles
-Better colors
-Black levels not so great
-More expensive
From people with experience of both, what would you recommend, are the IPSs worth the extra price, or are the high TN models good enough or better if you are always gonna be centered and won't look at the screen from side angles ?
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
Unless you are going to be making a living by playing game, get an IPS. They look better and are just fine for gaming.
Lasthope106
Member
Could I get a link to it? I don't know the specific one you mention :\
TheThunder
Member
Maybe it was about blacks being more of a really dark grey rather than black or something like that.
IPS it is. My local market isn't the best, especially when it comes to computer monitors, but I'll try to find the best I can get.
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