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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Question for anyone with an Asus Z77 board, is there a way to disable the Intel onboard graphics? There seems to be a problem where certain games (The Witcher, Prototype) autodetect the integrated GPU and limit the available graphics options based on that, so I can't choose a resolution above 1366x768 even though I have a GTX 670. I tried looking in the BIOS but I can't find an option to disable it altogether.
 

DeVeAn

Member
So I was following Sean's guide for installing windows. My ssd was the only disk. After the second restart I see disk e: system reserve How did this happen?
 
Ugh my BSOD failures continue to plague me. I updated my drivers, and went a while with no failures but they have started up again. Ran a memory test twice and passed both times. Then I ran prime95 and had a failure within a minute. Ideas on how to proceed?
 

Ceebs

Member
So Microcenter has the 3570K for 189.99. I was planning on just using a 2500k for my new build I am buying in the middle of the month.

If it's cheaper than the 2500K it's the chip to buy right?
 

Ledsen

Member
I did some googling for LCD computer monitors which led me to the TN vs IPS comparison which reminded of the old LCD vs Plasma wars (feels like 2007 all over again)

So, from what I gathered the TN models got:

-Better response time
-Cheaper
-Bad viewing angles

As for the IPSs:

-Worse response time but still acceptable for gaming
-Better viewing angles
-Better colors
-Black levels not so great
-More expensive

From people with experience of both, what would you recommend, are the IPSs worth the extra price, or are the high TN models good enough or better if you are always gonna be centered and won't look at the screen from side angles ?

TN panels are shit even if you look at them straight on. Try filling the screen with a color of your choice, it will be one color at the top and another on the bottom, with a nice gradient going across the entire screen... hideous.
 

demigod

Member
Why the hell can't I find an Asus GTX670 Top anywhere? Sold out on Newegg, and everywhere else is trying to sell me one for like $500. What the hell.

Just a heads up, the non Top can overclock as good or even better than the Top. Some guy got a 1300 boost non Top while my top can only get 1229, lol. The only difference between the 2 is that the Top is overclocked already whereas you need MSI AfterBurner or EVGA Precision to overclock the non Top to the Top's stock settings. You could call that an inconvenience but then again, I leave MSI AB on to manage the fan settings.

Also, some people are reporting crashes on stock settings with the Top and downclocking the card stopped it from crashing in benchmarks. Hell my first Top crashed during a benchmark and it killed the card and I had to RMA it. IMO, just buy the non Top and see if you can boost it to 1229, if not then return it and get the Top.
 
So i'm researching on a GPU for my new build, and it has come down between the GTX670 vs 680. I understand that 670 is better value for money at this stage due to the 5% or so performance difference.

But my question is; I've heard that recent driver updates have started to widen the gap between the two cards. If this is true, I suppose a GTX680 would be wiser long term investment? Or should I just stick with the GTX670 for now and upgrade or SLI down the track?
 

MrBig

Member
Question for anyone with an Asus Z77 board, is there a way to disable the Intel onboard graphics? There seems to be a problem where certain games (The Witcher, Prototype) autodetect the integrated GPU and limit the available graphics options based on that, so I can't choose a resolution above 1366x768 even though I have a GTX 670. I tried looking in the BIOS but I can't find an option to disable it altogether.

I'm away from mine atm, but it was somewhere under the Advanced menu. I know I saw it in there, just have to look some more.

is there a list of MUST play pc games?

Since I'm just getting back into PC gaming and made a backlog for myself, it might be relevant to you; I've been continuously adding newer games that look or play cool
 
Hey guys, sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I need some help.
Back in 2008 I made the huge mistake of buying a prebuilt HP Pavilion PC and now my gpu (8600 GT) is crapping out.

What I wanted to know is, based on my PC specs found here and my motherboard specs found here would I have any problems upgrading to a modern card?

Thanks in advance guys.
 

LordAlu

Member
Question for anyone with an Asus Z77 board, is there a way to disable the Intel onboard graphics? There seems to be a problem where certain games (The Witcher, Prototype) autodetect the integrated GPU and limit the available graphics options based on that, so I can't choose a resolution above 1366x768 even though I have a GTX 670. I tried looking in the BIOS but I can't find an option to disable it altogether.

Advanced Mode (F7) -> Advanced Tab -> System Agent Configuration -> Graphics Configuration.

You can't technically disable it, but if you set the Primary Display to your PCI-E slot it won't use on-board. Disable Render Standby and iGPU Multi-Monitor at the same time to be sure :)

Hey guys, sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I need some help.
Back in 2008 I made the huge mistake of buying a prebuilt HP Pavilion PC and now my gpu (8600 GT) is crapping out.

What I wanted to know is, based on my PC specs found here and my motherboard specs found here would I have any problems upgrading to a modern card?

Thanks in advance guys.

Your power supply is only 300W, so you'll have an issue there certainly. You'd likely have to get a better one if you're looking to upgrade. Either that or buy a similar card used from eBay and save up to upgrade everything later?
 

Slayer-33

Liverpool-2
Just received received my $346 Korean Crossover Q27 IPS 27" 2560X1440 monitor from ebay, only took 3 days from South Korea. The picture is amazing and easily beats my old NEC EA231WMII IPS. Many Korean companies sell these rejected LG panels which are suppose to go to the top end $1000 Apple Cinema, Dell and etc. displays. The panels are rated A- compare to the non rejected A+. When, you buy one there's a chance you have <5 dead and/or stuck pixel(s), some light bleeding and so on. In my case, no dead / stuck pixels, but slight bottom corner bleeding and what looks to be a speck of dirt on the bottom edge of the screen.

Pictures can't do these monitors justice, especially from a iphone camera.
image.jpg

image.jpg


I highly recommend anyone looking for a new monitor to think about going this route. Now, I might have to upgrade to SLI 680 or a 690 to power this bad boy.


What sorcery shit is this? Can I have one?
 

demigod

Member
Does anyone have the Logitech F710 wireless gamepad? Thinking about getting it but I'm not sure if i'd run into any problems. So many people on newegg recommending the xbox pc one but i'd rather not get that since it's too big for my hands.
 
Your power supply is only 300W, so you'll have an issue there certainly. You'd likely have to get a better one if you're looking to upgrade. Either that or buy a similar card used from eBay and save up to upgrade everything later?

Oh I forgot to mention I have a 600w Psu already ordered. I'm more worried about motherboard compatibility issues, do you think I'll have problems in that area?
 

knitoe

Member
What sorcery shit is this? Can I have one?

You can have as many as you want with being most ~$300 from ebay. Last night, I played some Diablo 3 and it looks amazing. Anyone looking to get a new monitor should jump on this ASAP. For gaming, these panels are pretty much the fastest IPS (6ms) you can buy.

And, I bought it from Greensum. Would buy from him again, but I would recommend going with Accessorieswhole instead. He offers a free correct power plugs for you country, guarantee 2 or less pixel problems and 30 day return.
 

Ceebs

Member
You can have as many as you want with being most ~$300 from ebay. Last night, I played some Diablo 3 and it looks amazing. Anyone looking to get a new monitor should jump on this ASAP. For gaming, these panels are pretty much the fastest IPS (6ms) you can buy.

And, I bought it from Greensum. Would buy from him again, but I would recommend going with Accessorieswhole instead. He offers a free correct power plugs for you country, guarantee 2 or less pixel problems and 30 day return.

2560x1440 is a lot of pixels to push for games. What sort of GPU setup are you using? Have you tried running games at a lower resolution on it? If so how awful does it look?

I would just be concerned about needing a new high end GPU yearly to keep up with that resolution.
 
So Microcenter has the 3570K for 189.99. I was planning on just using a 2500k for my new build I am buying in the middle of the month.

If it's cheaper than the 2500K it's the chip to buy right?

Unless you are planning on crazy over clocking (above 4.3 ghz) then yes, the ivy bridge precessors perform better at lower clock speeds and use less power.
 

MrBig

Member
My stock fractal rear fan has a bit of a whine to it, would it be a good idea to order two Gentle Typhoon 15s, one to replace it and one to put on the side panel?
 

LordAlu

Member
Oh I forgot to mention I have a 600w Psu already ordered. I'm more worried about motherboard compatibility issues, do you think I'll have problems in that area?
No, shouldn't think so. I had a 775 socket board with a Core 2 Duo E8400, and I bought a 550W supply and a GTX 560Ti and used them without issue.
 

knitoe

Member
2560x1440 is a lot of pixels to push for games. What sort of GPU setup are you using? Have you tried running games at a lower resolution on it? If so how awful does it look?

I would just be concerned about needing a new high end GPU yearly to keep up with that resolution.

I am running CF AMD 6970. I was hoping to skip this round of GPUs, but if must, I'll upgrade to SLI Nvidia 670/680 or a 690. I am still getting 60fps in the Witcher 2. I also tried the game in 1920X1080. The game looked somewhat blurry, but still beautiful.
 
I must have accidentally deleted my subscription for the PC technical help thread. I can't find it using search either. Does anybody else have a link to it?
 

lybertyboy

Thinks the Evil Empire is just misunderstood.
All of my new PC components have finally arrived. Deciding to wait until I get back from E3 before assembling. Too busy running around and getting ready to do it today.

AuZwffNCIAAQP5R.jpg:large
 

Shambles

Member
For those in the know about the Korean monitors, are they still sending out units that can hit 90-ish Hz? From what I've read it seems the first batches had higher refresh rates but they later changed the units to max out at 60 Hz. Can anyone who's gotten one recently verify it's refresh rate?

I must have accidentally deleted my subscription for the PC technical help thread. I can't find it using search either. Does anybody else have a link to it?

This pretty much is it.

Well it's for work so it's not all hookers and blow.

Not all of it, just during the after parties :p
 
I got the blue screen today and need some help finding out what the problem is. The error code I believe was STOP 0x0000007B. When I looked it up I found that it could be caused by some kind of change made to the hard drive recently. I haven't made any changes to anything so I'm not exactly sure what it could be, any ideas?
 
So, I'm at the end of my rope. Slowly, my options are dwindling down to "buy a new motherboard".

But my computer starts fine now. No Cold Boot loop. I also got a BOOTMGR Error until I switched cables on my two HDDs. But now, I can't do anything, click on anything, the computer is constantly thinking, and after a while, the monitor just goes blank. So I unplugged my brother's HDD and hooked up my SSD, only to be met with BOOTMGR Error, no matter how I set up the BIOS.

Now I'm concerned that the problem was never my mobo or power supply, but my SSD. Does this seem possible, and if so, I'm guessing a quick reinstall of the OS won't help matters?
 

kaskade

Member
Well I put in an in store pickup for the i5 3750k and the asrock z77 extreme 4 mobo combo.

I won't be picking it up until monday but I figured if I put the order in and they don't have the mobo combo deal after sunday I'll still get it. And if they end up doing a better deal I can just cancel and reorder. It's an amazing deal though I ended up saving like 70-80 bucks.
 
Ok well here is my weird problem.

I had some problems with my internet connection recently and had them come out and work on it. Took them twice to fix it. They also left a new modem. For some reason I cant get my roku to connect now. Same set up, same cables, it wont connect.

I switched a bunch of things around trying to use the process of elimination to zero in on the problem and it hasnt helped. let me describe the set up.

Before - coaxial cable to modem>modem out to switch>1 5-foot cat5 and 1 25-foot cat5 cable out from switch. 5 foot went to PC, 25 foot to Roku. PC works but not the Roku using this set up now.

So I tried directly connecting the 25 foot Roku cat 5 to the modem. Nothing. But the 5-foot to the Roku does work, both directly connected to the modem and through the switch. PC works fine with the 25-foot cat 5 as well.

So for some weird reason the Roku will not work with the 25-foot cat5 cable it has always been connected to and I cant think of any reason why. The cable is ok as the PC works fine connected with it. The Roku works ok hooked up through a different cable, just not with the 25 foot cable it has always been connected to.
 

knitoe

Member
For those in the know about the Korean monitors, are they still sending out units that can hit 90-ish Hz? From what I've read it seems the first batches had higher refresh rates but they later changed the units to max out at 60 Hz. Can anyone who's gotten one recently verify it's refresh rate?
From what I read, only the early Yamakasi Catleap Ver. 2B were really able to overclock to refresh rate, up to ~120hz.
So, I'm at the end of my rope. Slowly, my options are dwindling down to "buy a new motherboard".

But my computer starts fine now. No Cold Boot loop. I also got a BOOTMGR Error until I switched cables on my two HDDs. But now, I can't do anything, click on anything, the computer is constantly thinking, and after a while, the monitor just goes blank. So I unplugged my brother's HDD and hooked up my SSD, only to be met with BOOTMGR Error, no matter how I set up the BIOS.

Now I'm concerned that the problem was never my mobo or power supply, but my SSD. Does this seem possible, and if so, I'm guessing a quick reinstall of the OS won't help matters?
The BOOTMGR is installed onto 1 of your drive. That must be your boot drive or you will get that error message. Afterward, you may not be able to boot into Windows because you moved the Windows install onto another drive or Windows is corrupted. Unhook all your drives except the SSD, reinstall Windows and see if you can get into Windows.
 
The BOOTMGR is installed onto 1 of your drive. That must be your boot drive or you will get that error message. Afterward, you may not be able to boot into Windows because you moved the Windows install onto another drive or Windows is corrupted. Unhook all your drives except the SSD, reinstall Windows and see if you can get into Windows.

That's not what I'm asking. At least, I don't think it is.

I can get into Windows fine on MY computer (and I have two HDDs: my primary and a 1.5TB). It just goes all fucked up-like.

I'm trying to see if it's just my primary SSD which is fucked, and not my mobo. So I unplugged my brother's primary and plugged mine into his computer to see if the drive still fucked up, and I can't get past the BOOTMGR screen; whereas, on MY computer, I could.

What I'm asking is if this means my drive is fucked and not my mobo, and what my options are.
 

knitoe

Member
That's not what I'm asking. At least, I don't think it is.

I can get into Windows fine on MY computer (and I have two HDDs: my primary and a 1.5TB). It just goes all fucked up-like.

I'm trying to see if it's just my primary SSD which is fucked, and not my mobo. So I unplugged my brother's primary and plugged mine into his computer to see if the drive still fucked up, and I can't get past the BOOTMGR screen; whereas, on MY computer, I could.

What I'm asking is if this means my drive is fucked and not my mobo, and what my options are.

Let me get this straight, primary = SSD = Windows install? Your BOOTMGR is probably installed on the secondary 1.5T HDD. Thus, if you move your SSD to another computer, try to boot off it and will get the error message because there's no BOOTMGR.

As for your main issue, your Windows install is most likely corrupt. I would begin by reinstalling Windows. If you still get errors, try testing with MEMTEST. If it passes, try Windows installing on your 1.5TB HDD. Also, SSD can be picky. Have you tried installing the most recent firmware on it?
 
Let me get this straight, primary = SSD = Windows install? Your BOOTMGR is probably installed on the secondary 1.5T HDD. Thus, if you move your SSD to another computer, try to boot off it and will get the error message because there's no BOOTMGR.

Okay, didn't know that, thanks.

As for your main issue, your Windows install is most likely corrupt. I would begin by reinstalling Windows. If you still get errors, try testing with MEMTEST. If it passes, try Windows installing on your 1.5TB HDD. Also, SSD can be picky. Have you tried installing the most recent firmware on it?

Will do, thanks.
 
I got the blue screen today and need some help finding out what the problem is. The error code I believe was STOP 0x0000007B. When I looked it up I found that it could be caused by some kind of change made to the hard drive recently. I haven't made any changes to anything so I'm not exactly sure what it could be, any ideas?

Tried to boot from the drive I got from my old PC and it didn't work. So i thought maybe it was the root of the problem and took it out, and it booted with no problem so hopefully that was it.
 

Shambles

Member
From what I read, only the early Yamakasi Catleap Ver. 2B were really able to overclock to refresh rate, up to ~120hz.

Bah, if the panels are capable of displaying 120Hz these manufacturers need to stop being so damn lazy and spend the extra $3 to buy a controller that can send a 120Hz signal to the panel. As much as I hate Apple I'm glad they're at least pushing monitors out of the stone age. I should've been able to go out 3 years ago to buy a high DPI 24" IPS panel with a 120Hz refresh rate. Thanks to Dell we've had the same garbage PC peripherals for the past 10 years. Don't even get me started on things like printers.
 

MrBig

Member
Where can I get the intel Z77 chipset driver for W8? It would be nice to be able to use any of my HDDs. Intel's site doesn't even list 7 series chipset drivers at all.
 
The i5 2500k is completely compatible with Z77 boards, correct? Also, would I have to completely wipe my hard drive to use it in a new build?
 

Smokey

Member
I should think so

Just finished a new build

Core i7 3770K 3.5 GHZ
GTX 670 x2
Asus Sabertooth z77
Corsair 8 gb ddr3 1866
Corsair 1200 w PSU
OCZ Vertex 3 120 gb SSD (OS)
Creative x-fi pcie audio
WD Raptor 150 for general storage
Lian Li mid atx server chassis

That PSU is way overkill for what you have going on, but still sweet setup.
 
Advanced Mode (F7) -> Advanced Tab -> System Agent Configuration -> Graphics Configuration.

You can't technically disable it, but if you set the Primary Display to your PCI-E slot it won't use on-board. Disable Render Standby and iGPU Multi-Monitor at the same time to be sure :)

Thanks for the tip, but I did all that and it didn't work. :(

Is anyone with an Ivy Bridge on an Asus motherboard able to play The Witcher?
 
Let me get this straight, primary = SSD = Windows install? Your BOOTMGR is probably installed on the secondary 1.5T HDD. Thus, if you move your SSD to another computer, try to boot off it and will get the error message because there's no BOOTMGR.

As for your main issue, your Windows install is most likely corrupt. I would begin by reinstalling Windows. If you still get errors, try testing with MEMTEST. If it passes, try Windows installing on your 1.5TB HDD. Also, SSD can be picky. Have you tried installing the most recent firmware on it?

Everything seems to be working. I'm going to try it now with the old PSU.
 

mkenyon

Banned
After a ridiculous amount of time getting my loop to not leak (alphacool barbs don't like bitspower fittings at all), it is done save for my second SSD.

Once EK 690 blocks and the Shinobi XL White is out, will transfer the whole rig to that and add a second radiator.

Specs:
i7 3820
Gigabyte G1.Assassin 2 X79
4x4GB Corsair LP Vengeance
2x128GB Crucial M4 SSD's
EVGA GTX 690
Corsair AX850
Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120 fans (3 top, 1 rear, 2 front)
Corsair 600T SE
XSPC Dual Bay D5 Black Nylon Reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump
XSPC Raystorm Block
Alphacool barbs, Bitspower Rotary fittings
Primochill 7/16 ID clear tubing
Mayhem's Pastel Green concentrate w/ UV Yellow Dye added
Alphacool ST30 360mm radiator

Stress testing to come soon!

6q3Xch.jpg


rYwa9h.jpg


icl9mh.jpg
 

Chris R

Member
What sleeving is that on your PSU? Other than a second 670, getting a nice modular PSU like that is the only thing I'd consider adding to my build.
 

mkenyon

Banned
The stuff straight from Corsair. Ridiculously cheap, considering the price of custom sleeving or even adapter cables. My Seasonic custom sleeving job was like $450, and that was only the mobo, cpu, 3 sata cables, and two PCI-E 2x6+2 cables.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
After a ridiculous amount of time getting my loop to not leak (alphacool barbs don't like bitspower fittings at all), it is done save for my second SSD.

Once EK 690 blocks and the Shinobi XL White is out, will transfer the whole rig to that and add a second radiator.

Specs:
i7 3820
Gigabyte G1.Assassin 2 X79
4x4GB Corsair LP Vengeance
2x128GB Crucial M4 SSD's
EVGA GTX 690
Corsair AX850
Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120 fans (3 top, 1 rear, 2 front)
Corsair 600T SE
XSPC Dual Bay D5 Black Nylon Reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump
XSPC Raystorm Block
Alphacool barbs, Bitspower Rotary fittings
Primochill 7/16 ID clear tubing
Mayhem's Pastel Green concentrate w/ UV Yellow Dye added
Alphacool ST30 360mm radiator

Stress testing to come soon!

6q3Xch.jpg


rYwa9h.jpg


icl9mh.jpg


Absolutely gorgeous, man. I would never think to do green and white; but it looks entirely badass. I'd personally find a white exhaust fan for the back (instead of clear), and I'd put the SSDs in a bay if you have some available - but seriously, those are two very nit-picky suggestions. I'd love if my next computer looked even half as good as that.

Any consideration at all to go with another 690 for quad-SLI?


EDIT: Oh, also... just to vent. Had an absolute nightmare of a time replacing my Agility 2 with a 128GB M4 this weekend. Install errors. BOOTMGR errors. ANOTHER re-install. Driver issues. Product Key errors. Just... ugh. What should have been a two hour job turned into a two day job. Which means I couldn't play Max Payne 3 at all :( Luckily, though, everything seems fine, now. Knock on wood. I do notice a hair of a difference going from the old SSD to this new one. It's definitely a tad faster; but nothing major. I updated more to start fresh and have a bit more space on my C Drive. I'm gonna use the Agility 2 as a temporary home for whatever the "latest game" I'm playing happens to be.
 
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