i dont mind amd or nvidia, so ill look at the 7850. the price is just newegg without any shopping around yet. :3
edit: about $100 cheaper on ncix
kk
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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edit: about $100 cheaper on ncix
Palit's fine. Was going to say just get a BP550 PSU and a 670, but I guess that's locked up.
That PSU has a bit too many negative reviews which bothers me. It's not modular but the Corsair 650W v2 is $70 after rebate on newegg.
Agreed. Just make the the mobo is Z77 out of the box compatible.
M4 or 830 offer very similar performance without the bad history. OCZ has not in the past had the most amazing reliability and their speed advantage is largely gone.
Hawk269
Member
After a ridiculous amount of time getting my loop to not leak (alphacool barbs don't like bitspower fittings at all), it is done save for my second SSD.
Once EK 690 blocks and the Shinobi XL White is out, will transfer the whole rig to that and add a second radiator.
Specs:
i7 3820
Gigabyte G1.Assassin 2 X79
4x4GB Corsair LP Vengeance
2x128GB Crucial M4 SSD's
EVGA GTX 690
Corsair AX850
Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120 fans (3 top, 1 rear, 2 front)
Corsair 600T SE
XSPC Dual Bay D5 Black Nylon Reservoir
Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump
XSPC Raystorm Block
Alphacool barbs, Bitspower Rotary fittings
Primochill 7/16 ID clear tubing
Mayhem's Pastel Green concentrate w/ UV Yellow Dye added
Alphacool ST30 360mm radiator
Stress testing to come soon!
Damn...that came out very nice man. Looks so good!!!
DyslexicAlucard
Member
I ended up ordering this for $420 with a price match: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71705&vpn=GTX670-DC2-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
It doesn't say DirectCU II in the title, but in the description below it is mentioned, which is weird considering that there's also this on NCIX: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71741&vpn=GTX670-DC2T-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
Thoughts? If it has the same cooling technology but different factory clock speeds, well, I can take care of that myself
I ended up ordering this for $420 with a price match: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71705&vpn=GTX670-DC2-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
It doesn't say DirectCU II in the title, but in the description below it is mentioned, which is weird considering that there's also this on NCIX: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71741&vpn=GTX670-DC2T-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
Thoughts? If it has the same cooling technology but different factory clock speeds, well, I can take care of that myself
That's a bingo. The one you've purchased is the vanilla DCU2, while the other is the DCU2 TOP, which has a higher GPU clockspeed.
TheThunder
Member
I ended up ordering this for $420 with a price match: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71705&vpn=GTX670-DC2-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
It doesn't say DirectCU II in the title, but in the description below it is mentioned, which is weird considering that there's also this on NCIX: http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=71741&vpn=GTX670-DC2T-2GD5&manufacture=ASUS
Thoughts? If it has the same cooling technology but different factory clock speeds, well, I can take care of that myself
It's the same, just one card is factory OC'ed while the other (yours) is not.
MWS Natural
Member
My new system is up and running without the new GPU. I hope it arrives later today. I installed my old one in it to test some things but quickly removed it cause I didn't really want to have my old GPU in there which reaches almost 100c and the fan goes so wild that it pretty much starts to shake the whole thing.
I hate to ask these three stupid question but here goes -
My I5 3570 runs idle at 30C with CM Evo 212. That's fine. Under load (prime) for a hour it at stock speed it maxes out at 62C. That's also fine as far as I know. The auto overclock function from Maximus Gene V MOBO pushed it to around 4.4GHZ. I did not want to try to use Prime before knowing at what temps it would be safe. Is it around 80? At what temp should I be worried? Anything above 90c is dangerous, right? Asking this cause my old PC was plagued with heating issues over time and don't want to have another broken pc over time. Rather be safe than sorry especially with a new system.
Second Question - BIOS doesn't seem to detect the CM 212 but it sure is cooling and CPU seems cool enough. Is this anything to worry about?
Third question - Do games benefit a lot from the use of SSD or should I just stick with OS and stuff like Photoshop for the SSD?
Also... The first time booting W7 with SSD is crazy. I can barely blink after turning on the power and I am in Windows already. Damn!
I hate to ask these three stupid question but here goes -
My I5 3570 runs idle at 30C with CM Evo 212. That's fine. Under load (prime) for a hour it at stock speed it maxes out at 62C. That's also fine as far as I know. The auto overclock function from Maximus Gene V MOBO pushed it to around 4.4GHZ. I did not want to try to use Prime before knowing at what temps it would be safe. Is it around 80? At what temp should I be worried? Anything above 90c is dangerous, right? Asking this cause my old PC was plagued with heating issues over time and don't want to have another broken pc over time. Rather be safe than sorry especially with a new system.
Second Question - BIOS doesn't seem to detect the CM 212 but it sure is cooling and CPU seems cool enough. Is this anything to worry about?
Third question - Do games benefit a lot from the use of SSD or should I just stick with OS and stuff like Photoshop for the SSD?
Also... The first time booting W7 with SSD is crazy. I can barely blink after turning on the power and I am in Windows already. Damn!
I have an i5 3570k and Cooler Master 212+ EVO. It's overclocked to 4.4GHz, and under full load for four hours with Prime95 the maximum temperature was 79 degrees. I like to keep a CPU under 80 if possible so that's good for me.
Mine originally came up with a warning that the fan speed was too low, but that was because the BIOS would throw up a warning for anything below 600RPM. Just dropped the warning to 300RPM. Check the fan speed whilst under load, mine increased and decreased fine as it should.
They do benefit yes, although only with load times and to be honest not by too much. I just keep my games on a normal 7200RPM drive - they load fast enough for me
Lower your voltage if possible. Currently on my 10th hour of a prime95 run, 4.4ghz at 1.14v, max temp is 71c according to realtemp.
Though I'm on a Macho, not a 212.
I have an i5 3570k and Cooler Master 212+ EVO. It's overclocked to 4.4GHz, and under full load for four hours with Prime95 the maximum temperature was 79 degrees. I like to keep a CPU under 80 if possible so that's good for me.
Mine originally came up with a warning that the fan speed was too low, but that was because the BIOS would throw up a warning for anything below 600RPM. Just dropped the warning to 300RPM. Check the fan speed whilst under load, mine increased and decreased fine as it should.
They do benefit yes, although only with load times and to be honest not by too much. I just keep my games on a normal 7200RPM drive - they load fast enough for me
Thank you! It all is good then!
Now if only my GPU would arrive...
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
I've been looking at some more recent reviews of the ASUS GTX670 Top and it seems like there are quite a bit of reliability issues with the cards. A lot of people are getting errors, having their systems crash, etc... Are you guys sure this card is reliable? Seems like quality control with this card is pretty touch and go.
Yeah their binning process is crap. The card itself is fine, but their factory OC is too aggressive for an unacceptable amount of chips. It's still a damn good buy, but it doesn't put it over any of the other factory OC cards like it was supposed to. If you want an Asus still, get the non-top and OC it yourself. The new MSI looks good and the Windforce is still fine.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
I don't necessarily want an Asus, I was just told to get the DC2T as it is the best of this line of video cards. I may look at the MSI and Windforce instead, especially since the DC2T is sold out everywhere or otherwise being sold at $500.
demigod
Member
I just dropped mine off of UPS. My advice, don't buy the Top unless you're ok with downclocking the card. Buy the Gigabyte, non-Top or wait for the MSI. I was fine with my card not overclocking as good as other people, but crashing at stock settings in Heaven is just bs. When I game on PC, I game for hours. And if it crashes on me, it pisses me off.
The lowest I could go that was stable was 1.27v. Anything lower and Prime95 would cut after two to three hours
So with D3 out and my addiction at it's highest I started upgrading parts on my PC to hopefully get the game running at full detail and 1920x1080. No such luck so far. I thought it was the HD being slow at first so I went with a new OCZ SSD, next was the video card upgraded to NVidia GTX 550 TI. Things got better again but still seeing constant frame drops.
So I'm basically back to building a new computer. Can anyone suggest a bare bones CPU and Mobo configuration on the very cheap that will run D3, BF3, Witcher 2, Skyrim at decent settings? I'm sick of upgrading for 1k every time and not getting much out of it. I'd like to just get the most out of these games with this purchase and then wait for the next crop.
Any suggestions from the original build post on the first page of the thread would be fine.
Last question, is the 550 TI enough to run those games if I upgrade my cpu/mobo?
So I'm basically back to building a new computer. Can anyone suggest a bare bones CPU and Mobo configuration on the very cheap that will run D3, BF3, Witcher 2, Skyrim at decent settings? I'm sick of upgrading for 1k every time and not getting much out of it. I'd like to just get the most out of these games with this purchase and then wait for the next crop.
Any suggestions from the original build post on the first page of the thread would be fine.
Last question, is the 550 TI enough to run those games if I upgrade my cpu/mobo?
What is your cpu? The problem is 550 TI is not a very good card, even the GTX 460 are better. Try to aim for at least TI 560 or AMD 6950.
It'll run them but not maxed out at 1080p as you probably already know.
For the same money a 6850 is a better buy than the 550Ti.
specialguy
Banned
diablo 3 specifically seems more cpu constrained iirc
Quick question, sorry if very dumb but I seriously don't know if this works and I can't test it right now.
I have a two gtx680 SLI setup, can I plug an HDMI cable to the second GPU so that it's connected to my HDTV while the first one is connected to my monitor? Or does only the HDMI input forone of the GPUs in a SLI configuration output the video? Also, if so can it display to both screens without reducing performance? I'm not planning to have different stuff displayed at the same time, I just want to mirror what's on the monitor on the big screen, so I can chill on my sofa with an xbox controller (with wireless PC dongle) for some games, without having to plug and unplug the HDMI cable all the time. Both screens are 1920x1080 if that helps.
I have a two gtx680 SLI setup, can I plug an HDMI cable to the second GPU so that it's connected to my HDTV while the first one is connected to my monitor? Or does only the HDMI input forone of the GPUs in a SLI configuration output the video? Also, if so can it display to both screens without reducing performance? I'm not planning to have different stuff displayed at the same time, I just want to mirror what's on the monitor on the big screen, so I can chill on my sofa with an xbox controller (with wireless PC dongle) for some games, without having to plug and unplug the HDMI cable all the time. Both screens are 1920x1080 if that helps.
I could test it when I get home, but I don't think this is the case. I get 100FPS more on my 3820/690 even when it was at 4.2Ghz compared to a 2500K at 4.8 with a 6950. It most certainly is GPU bottlenecked at 1080p w/ max settings.
You guys. I'm building my pc right now. I'm at the part where I try to put the mobo into the case and have the back part latch itself into the i/o shield in the back. This is incredibly difficult. There are little metal tabs on the i/o shield that are just in the way. Am I supposed to bend those back as much as I can so they stay out of the way? This is the hardest part so far.
I bend them until they fit between the inputs on the MB. If you can't get them to fit in between, just bend them all the way and make them flat.
Thanks. I think I got it in now.
Another question.
The rear case fan has a tiny three pin female connector. The mobo has a male 4 pin connector labelled cha_fan which is chassis fan according to the manual. There are NO 3 pin male connectors on the mobo to match the case fan. Is it okay to put that 3 pin wire onto that 4 pin on the mobo?
Another question.
The rear case fan has a tiny three pin female connector. The mobo has a male 4 pin connector labelled cha_fan which is chassis fan according to the manual. There are NO 3 pin male connectors on the mobo to match the case fan. Is it okay to put that 3 pin wire onto that 4 pin on the mobo?
Yup
Yes that's fine.
Wolf Akela
Member
Just need to double check GAF.
Friend's getting a PC tomorrow, she's into 3D modelling. I got her i5-3550, 8GB plus GTX 550 for games and CUDA. I assume Corsair CX430v1 is enough? I am basing my assumption on this chart. GTX550, but with i7 970 (60W higher TDP) running on Furmark getting the total system power consumption to just 264W. Furmark doesn't stress the processor, but at worst you can give an extra 70W from i5-3550's TDP which brings it to 330W max. Still below 80% of 430W.
Friend's getting a PC tomorrow, she's into 3D modelling. I got her i5-3550, 8GB plus GTX 550 for games and CUDA. I assume Corsair CX430v1 is enough? I am basing my assumption on this chart. GTX550, but with i7 970 (60W higher TDP) running on Furmark getting the total system power consumption to just 264W. Furmark doesn't stress the processor, but at worst you can give an extra 70W from i5-3550's TDP which brings it to 330W max. Still below 80% of 430W.
430W is max combined. Look at the 12V to decide. It's more like 380W, then you don't want it near that number, so you say something like 350W max stress load.
Still would easily be enough, but I recommend the Antec VP450 instead from all aspects unless you can only spend like $15 AR.
Wolf Akela
Member
Local store has Basiq VP450 for $20 cheaper than CX430v1, I'll read up on that thanks.
DeVeAn
Member
Okay I need help with a mouse. Logitech mx had it for 3 years and it started to crap out. Been playing diablo so got the diablo mouse. My hand could not adjust to it and after 2 weeks I returned it. So I got the death adder and it feels better. Problem is my fingers started getting stiff while playing diablo 3. I am having a hard time trying to find a comfortable mouse now. I owned a Microsoft mouse before all of them and loved it. What should I be looking for?
The thing about mice is you should just go with something that's comfortable to you. Get down to a shop and see if they'll let you handle them. I have a Deathadder and love it, but when I tried the Mamba (which is meant to be better in every way) I found the shape had changed on the right side which made my little finger strain and feel uncomfortable.
In terms of mice I've tried recently that I find comfortable, the Deathadder is one, but I also liked the Cyborg R.A.T. 5 and the Logitech Performance Mouse MX. Don't skimp much on it since you'll have it for a fair few years (like your MX), and ignore the whole DPI thing unless you play FPS games constantly; so long as it works well and has enough buttons for what you use then you'll be fine.
Yeah, I found that larger, heavier mice are a lot more comfortable for any sort of long session, and that having a catch for your thumb to rest on is a must. Definitely go to a Best Buy or something to try some out.
DPI can actually make a big difference, though. Lower DPI (~200) will mean that you will constantly be moving your arm, which is ok but tiresome; medium DPI (~1000) means you will be moving your wrist a lot which can cause fatigue and cause long term damage to your hand, and high DPI (~5000) mice are able to be controlled with small movements of your fingers so you don't get strained or tired. (so just get something that has adjustable DPI).
I personally use a G500 (it fit perfectly in my hand when I tried it out) with a custom weight to make it heavier than the useless weights they give you with it.
DPI can actually make a big difference, though. Lower DPI (~200) will mean that you will constantly be moving your arm, which is ok but tiresome; medium DPI (~1000) means you will be moving your wrist a lot which can cause fatigue and cause long term damage to your hand, and high DPI (~5000) mice are able to be controlled with small movements of your fingers so you don't get strained or tired. (so just get something that has adjustable DPI).
I personally use a G500 (it fit perfectly in my hand when I tried it out) with a custom weight to make it heavier than the useless weights they give you with it.
I second Performance MX, it's pretty great if you want to be more ergonomic (=rest as much as possible of your hand on your mouse). Sadly seems to be a downgrade from the previous version (Revolution MX), which had a thumb scroll wheel as well.
The most comfortable mouse I've ever used, though, is the one I have at work, the Orthomouse:
It's the only mouse in existence that fits your WHOLE HAND (including pinky and thumb) and isn't a weird sidemouse but instead actually made to amke you bend your wrist in the most relaxed position possible (slightly sideways, like when it's in a cast). It's modular so there are three different sizes of hand rest depending on how big your hands are. It also doesn't have a scroll wheel, but instead those little toggles by your thumb scroll up and down respectively. You just tilt your thumb instead of bending and jerking your index finger. The central thumb button is the middle mouse button. Sadly it's pretty expensive and the build quality isn't great (the buttons are a little hard), but it's hands down the best mouse ever made if you care about keeping your hands and wrists healthy. I haven't tried gaming with it obviously.
I got sick of waiting for my GPU to arrive (Asus GTX670Top) so I am able to cancel it and get the Asus GTX 670 Non Top version for a lot cheaper. I have to decide fast (within the hour). The only difference is that the Top version is already clocked higher right out of the box - no other changes? (Cooler, noise production etc are all the same, right?)
I should be able to clock that card myself with a few clicks, right?
I should be able to clock that card myself with a few clicks, right?
Yes.
Thank you for the fast reply! Bought. It should arrive tomorrow.
Edvardelis
Member
The ASUS GTX 670 Top versions are a little too aggressively overclocked, sometimes you get a card that can't handle the clocks ASUS set it to.
Better to go with the regular ASUS GTX 670, that way if it doesn't overclock as high as the Top version you've at least saved the difference.
The TOP was never worth the price premium in the first place. They're the same damn card except you're paying someone $30 to adjust a couple sliders in a piece of software that you're going to end up adjusting again yourself anyways. I had the Gigabyte and ended up exchanging it for the Asus non-TOP after having coil whine issues. I've been very happy with the Asus and will be sticking with it.
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
The Maximus V Extreme... wonder what this beast is going to go for?
I hate when motherboards have heatsinks that are more for advertisement than function.
When you have a board designed for benching and LN2, why wouldn't you want it to stand out and be immediately recognizable? This isn't meant for even normal enthusiasts.
Regarding the mouse discussion, there are objectively better mice. There is an element of 'what fits better', but ultimately if you palm there is no better mouse than the Sensei. If you claw, you want the CM Storm Xornet/Spawn. If you play lots of MMOs, the Naga. If you're not serious into competition, the differences probably won't be noticed as much but they are indeed there. A recent mouse/pad/keyboard/sensitivity change increased my ability to push me over the edge from middling competition to very serious player. The sensor and DPI increments are just as important as feel.
Got my stuff yesterday for my 2012 "refresh" :
Sig GTX 690
Dell U3011
I haven't installed the 690 yet. Just messing with the The 580s. They run everything I've thrown at it (Crysis 2 Maldo Mod, BF3 MP, Max Payne 3 etc) at 60fps or near it on the native resolution of 2560x1600.
But this monitor...:drool. The colors man...the colors. The clarity at this resolution is mind blowing. I stayed up late last night playing Crysis 2 again and being amazed at how freaking clear and sharp everything looks. Same with BF3 MP.
A lot more I want to say about it, including 1600p vs. 120hz, which I now have experience with both. But for now IPS = the truth.
Sig GTX 690
Dell U3011
I haven't installed the 690 yet. Just messing with the The 580s. They run everything I've thrown at it (Crysis 2 Maldo Mod, BF3 MP, Max Payne 3 etc) at 60fps or near it on the native resolution of 2560x1600.
But this monitor...:drool. The colors man...the colors. The clarity at this resolution is mind blowing. I stayed up late last night playing Crysis 2 again and being amazed at how freaking clear and sharp everything looks. Same with BF3 MP.
A lot more I want to say about it, including 1600p vs. 120hz, which I now have experience with both. But for now IPS = the truth.
Yeah, I can understand. If you're just not good enough, that 120hz might not make as big of a difference.
Grats on the 690! It's such a well crafted component, I almost feel bad I'll be taking off the heatsink.
lol, nice I owe you one
No there is definitely a difference for sure. And if you do a lot of competitive game then yes I would definitely say go with a 120hz monitor. I know you've been hammering that for awhile, but after first hand experience I can fully back you up on that.
But....on the other hand. The games looks soooo good on here. Once I got used to the difference in refresh rate I was back to doing just fine in BF3. For twitchy games though, 120hz it is. Overall though the colors really make the games pop on this screen, and productivity wise the amount of space is awesome.
I think my graphics card just died. I went to boot up and the MSI screen at the beginning looks 16 bit and there's loads of bright red horizontal lines. Then the "starting windows" screen comes up and that's all low res too with loads of red lines. Then tge display goes blank and "mode not supported" comes on the screen. That's the problem. I have a GeForce 560 ti.
... It's dead, right?
... It's dead, right?
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